Drop the front derailleur ?
Seeing this a lot lately, even in my most recent MB Action. Wondering what application this is best for (xc, all mtn, etc.). What are weight savings? Disadvantages,advantages? How many teeth do you use for the front ring? For or against? Testimonials, pics, advice! You get the drill. Just curious, thanks!
I did it on my 26er and loved it. 32T chainring & 11-34 cassette. Rolling hills of the Southeast mean no grueling climbs. Must use a SS chainring for success IMHO.
I'm afraid to switch on my 29er. Would like to go 30T chainring if I can find away without spending a bundle. Combine that with 11-36 cassette and I'll be fine.
Keep the original rings and derailleur/shifter for if/when I move back West.
I run a 1x10 set up on my niner and my CX bike and I love it! Like Jm2e I run a 32 on the Niner and a 38 or 42 on the CX bike. low maintenance, No chain drop. Worth the price of a chain guide. I use a E-13 and a Pauls and they are both great.
Just started running a single (32) in the front on my 29er - back should be 11-36 if I remember... 26er is next. Just have to decide on a chainguide and/or tensioner. Oh, forgot - Albuquerque/SW with alpine climbs 1k and an up.
Airborne Flight Crew
Jerry Hazard – website
I'm running 1x10 on my niner jet9 rdo with 11-36 cassette. Only did it to try it out and save a little weight at the same time..plus wholesale pricing make it cheaper then most other options. I got the xx1 crank and swap between a 28 and 32 front ring depending on the trail..28 is only good for long grueling climbs....32t works fine for everything else. The xx1 chainrings work really well and haven't dropped a chain yet. I still run a mrp 1x guide just to be safe...but its honestly not mandatory, especially with w clutch style rear mech. Mines not a clutch rear and no issues at all...yet.
The good thing about the xx1 cranks is you can swap chain rings very easily by removing 4 bolts...no need to remove the cranks or spider. Downside is price and availability. You can also try to find a xx1 spider which works on some other sram cranks...i beleive youd need the bb30 spider...correct me if im wrong. A 1x setup is not for everyone, but it's working for me. Gonna keep my old parts in case I need more gear options.
I started using a 1x8 set up years ago on my road bike and I've used it on every bike since. I'd never go back to using a front derrailleur, I hate the ******* things.
Simplicity - I don't even have to think about what gear I'm in, I just select up or down. No maintenance, no clogging, no chain rub, no hassle, no overlapping gears, no gears that are out of bounds because of the chainline, no issues of any kind and I still have plenty of gears despite my limitations with the 8 speed rear cassette. I use 32 up front and 11-32 at the back.
Weight saving - It makes your bike lighter for free!
The ideal set up is with a short chain, a single speed front ring and a short cage derraileur but it can be done ghetto style.
1x9 on my 26er
1x9 on my 69er
1x11 going on my 29er
I do mostly XC riding so I don't find a need for more chain rings. I like the simplicity of the 1X setups.
Canfield 9 tooth hub! Run a 28 single up front. 9-36 in the back and you have better clearance, great gear range and ditch a bunch of weight.
Last edited by BruceBrown; 05-17-2013 at 05:33 AM.
Good for you
Originally Posted by BruceBrown
I went 1x9 originally in an attempt to drop weight and because I never ever used my granny and rarely went to the big ring but regularly ride over logs (which sucks with a big ring). At the end of the day, I either didn't lose significant weight or maybe even gained a little, but don't care one bit because it is so awesome now that I've got it worked out.
There's always going to be people who need a front derailleur. There's always going to be people who like their front derailleur. For the rest of us, 1x is Awesome and the options are just getting better.
I spend a couple months with the original 32T middle ring and a BBG Bashwhich. Unfortunately, regular rings are DESIGNED to make the chain fall off (see Zee/XX1 ads), so I kept having problems. Finally switched to a RaceFace stainless steel single speed ring and everything changed instantly. The chain is so tight inside that thick semetrical ring it's secure and silent as a church mouse.
BBG just started making a regular thickness inside ring as well. It weighs a little more, but the older one was thin enough that it would bend pretty easily from bashing logs.
I'm running this with a 5" travel bike on rocky rooty jumpy terain.
I think you hit the nail on the head there, using a SS ring up front helps a lot in addition to shorting the chain.
Originally Posted by jm2e
I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.
Drop the front derailleur ?
Opinions will vary a lot depending on terrain, style of bike and style of riding, but you can figure it out for yourself pretty easily. Just think about what gear combinations you don't use, which ones you can do without, and which ones you absolutely need. Then just compare ratios. My 2x works fine so I have no compelling need to convert, but my next bike will certainly have a wide range 1x drivetrain.
1x10 36 tooth up front 11*36 rear, it reminds me of my SS roadie, reduces gears and makes it a bit more simpler for me. super quiet no chain rub and no chain drop.Weight was just a bonus. Can handle any climb here in Texas now on the 36, moving to Colorado next month that may change
My same exact setup on my 29er. I do have 34t as a spare to use on more hilly courses.
Originally Posted by pernfilman
It was a breeze to switch and I don't see myself going back.
So, I ride out west (Wyoming/Colorado) where there is lot's of abrupt climbs and elevation changes. Is going to 1 ring up front better suited for flatter, more open trails?
Depends how strong you are. Right now, I can get up most everything in Fort Collins or upstate NY in a 39t up front, 11-36t in the back. If riding with a slower group, use the 26t up front, because the pedalling a 39t is just too slow.
Will be going 1x11 with a 36t soon. No discernable loss for me.
I ride a lot at Curt Gowdy which has a lot of abrupt steep climbs. Most stuff near FoCo seems to be flowing XC riding (with some exceptions). I might swap over on my hardtail and keep my full squish geared for the gnar.
Originally Posted by Le Duke
Sounds like 1x country to me. Short punchy climbs beg to be hammered and a 32x36 will get you up a lot.
Originally Posted by GnarBrahWyo
1x10 on my 29er. 11-36 cassette, 34t on the front... perfect for the conditions here in north GA. I like to stand and hammer up hills, and never used the granny or the big ring on my last 3x10 setup.
1x10 on my Fantom Ti 29er, 11x36 cassette.
Not many big hills down in the Memphis area, so the other 2 rings never got used.
Works great - have a BBG bashwich and the standard front 32t ring - never had a problem.
Could probably stand a 34 tooth in front, I spend a lot of time in the smaller rings in the rear, especially when I ride to work on the road.
Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea.
-- Robert Heinlein --
1X10 on my Stumpy. 36T up front; 12x36 cassette.
Living on Long Island, there aren't too many climbs. I've never really encountered a situation where I've regretted the move to 1x10. If I ever had to walk it, I chalk up to motivation and maybe even learn from it. Maybe I didn't maintain enough speed or I chose the wrong line.
Just built up a new HT with XX1........sweetness
I spent the last few months riding a singlespeed 29er. I was fascinated to see how limiting or workable it would make riding. The short answer was what I sort of thought. It's not actually a massive problem (other than some climbs are impossible on my local trails) so I decided to rebuild my main bike as a 10speed. 34 tooth single chainring with a 11-36 10 speed cassette.
I think a singlespeed can be a bit limiting but great fun and great for getting fit. a thought out 10 speed set up is just about perfect. My original 30 speed set up was totally excessive. Not spent long on the new set up yet but initial spins have been very encouraging. I feel I work harder within each gear now and keep momentum going now rather than slowing down into a lower gear. I feel fitter and faster, I've laughed whilst on the bike thinking to myself 'this is great, it's like a singlespeed with gears!'
And I looks cool and its lighter.
So much win in this comment!
Originally Posted by pernfilman
Anxiously waiting to hear how it worked out for you.
I'm in the St. Louis region and went to 1x10 with a 32 in front and 11-36 in the back. My set up is an XX1 crank up front and xt RD w/ clutch in the back.
When I ride to the mtb trails on the road I spin out at around 25 mph. Usually this only happens with a big tailwind behind me. If I am going 25mph while mountain biking here I am usually not pedaling anyways.
With the 32x36 climbing gear I climbed one of the steepest mountain bike trails in the area and it felt good. I am pretty bad about always dropping to the easiest gear available and spinning like crazy and not really gaining any ground. I honestly feel that if you need anything lower than 32x36 then you aren't really riding and you should just get off and walk. The 32x36 forced me to keep hammering it at a good pace.
I have yet to see a hill that was too steep for me to climb. Even with my single speed if I am getting too tired I just back off the pressure and track stand and go slower and go at it again without putting a foot down. Now a technical hill where traction is iffy is a different story.
After riding a SS you will realize that all the gears are not needed.
Any guides to this ?
Was thinking of doing the same. since I never leave the middle of my fronts.
If one drops the rail up front wont they need something to keep the chain lined up ?
Does the large ring become your defacto bash guard ?
Ill assume a SS front means the ring is about the same size as the center of a 3 speed front ?
Im also assuming an existing crankset has to be compatible for one to drop rings.
Lastly weight loss cant be sginificant right ? up to 100 grams at most is what I guessed.
Do a quick search and you will be surprised on how much this is covered. The large ring only becomes a spinning ring of death if it is not used. A bashguard is much better looking, useful, and safer. I think I lost over a pound going from heavy AL 2x10 cranks and front shifter and FD to just an XX1 crank. A good portion of that was in the crank loss weight itself, but yea.
Originally Posted by manmythlegend
The simplist is going from a 3x drivetrain as the middle ring is usually centered to the cassette. If that is the case, this is what I would do in order of most importance. I left off take off front deraileur and front shifter because it is assumed.
1. Drop the small and large ring.
2. Buy a SS ring for whatever size you desire. The SS ring is made so that it does not shift.
3. Shorten the chain to remove extra slack. Not mandatory, but it will prevent the chain from bouncing off.
4. Put on a bashguard instead of the large ring. Again prevents the chain from bouncing off to the outside.
5. Put on a chainkeeper to keep the chain from jumping off to the inside.
6. Ride and smile.
If you do not have a triple and have money then what I would go full XX1.
If you don't have complete XX1 monies and a current x10 setup then what I would do is.
1. Swap current crank with an XX1 crankset.
2. Swap current RD w/ a RD w/ clutch.
3. Ride and smile.
It also really depends on the terrain that you are riding, the style of riding that you are doing, and the climbing that you are planning on doing for a lot of the details on how much chain retention you will need.
Will definitely be looking into this...thank you.
Originally Posted by tooclosetosee
Here's the same idea, worded another way:
1. Remove left shifter and front derailleur.
2. Buy a new chain. You probably need one by now, and you'll need one with a quick link anyway: $15 bucks
Amazon.com: KMC X-9SL Superlite 9sp chain, silver: Sports & Outdoors
3. Buy a single speed chainring. Designed to keep the chain on, rather than being designed to shift the chain off. Get the same size as your current middle ring, unless your current ring is 34T or 36T and you want something a little more "granny". Fewer teeth up front=more granny: $26 bucks
Amazon.com: Surly Stainless Steel Ring 32t x 104mm: Sports & Outdoors
4. Put a bash guard where your large chainring was: $28 bucks
Amazon.com: MRP S4 Bashguard: Sports & Outdoors
5. Put an N-Gear Jump Stop where your front derailleur used to be: $10 bucks
Amazon.com: N-Gear Jump Stop Chain Guide/Watcher: Sports & Outdoors
6. Run your un-linked chain around the largest cog and around your new SS chainring. Overlap the two ends of the chain. Shorten the chain to where it overlaps by two links. Use awesome quick link technology to put your new shortened chain back together.
7. Go ride. You will not experience awesome weight reduction. You will notice awesome sound reduction and snappy shifting. Your left thumb might feel weird as you learn that you primarily used the front shifter as a thumb rest.
There are other ways, but you aren't likely to pull it off for less than this $80 action plan.
2. Why do you assume that he needs a new chain? Why do you assume that he is running 9 speed? Most chains have quick links on them anyways. They aren't that ground breaking.
Originally Posted by jm2e
3. Or buy a wolf-tooth chain ring or the like with varying tooth thickness. Can only buy in even tooth increments like XX1 though. Products | wolftoothcycling.com wolftoothcycling.com
4. BBG bash. Light, cheap ($18 shipped), durable (lifetime guarantee), American made, good customer service. There is a reason they are the go-to on this board and highest recommended bash guard.
6. That is the general way of figuring chain length on a HT, but not on a FS that has chain growth. That is covered in another thread on mtbr.
Sorry, I should have started a new thread titled:
How to convert from 3x9 to 1x9 for all those guys out there who have been riding their entry-mid level bike enthusiastically for several hundred miles and don't have a clue how to convert it or how much it will cost and want some easy pointers on how to get everything quick and easy.
(Subtitle): This might not work for everyone, but it should work as a jumping off point for most people in most situations including most full suspension bikes.
(Sub-Subtitle): If you have a 10sp drivetrain, please don't buy a 9sp chian. Buy this instead: Amazon.com: KMC DX10SC 10-Speed 116-Links Bicycle Chain, Silver/Grey, 1/2x11/28-Inch: Sports & Outdoors , and still keep your cost under $100 bucks.
(Sub-Sub-Subtitle): Your entry level or mid level bike might be blessed with an OEM quicklink chain, and you might not have worn it out yet. Feel free to buy a chain checker for $10 bucks Amazon.com: Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Wear Indica: Sports & Outdoors , Congratulations you're on an unstopable freight train to bike tool/maintenance obsession. Now it's time to engage in online debates about the varying methods of checking chain growth with various tools and measuring tapes.
FWIW, I thought tooclosetosee had a great response to the original question. I simply had to give my own as well because I'm compulsive and obnoxious by nature. My intention was not to contradict, but rather to compliment.
I road apex mountain a few days back and barely got out of the 36/36 combo, one of the climbs in the forest I had to walk it was just too steep, between altitude acclimation and being 15 lbs over race weight hard to gauge if this is too much up front. A few more rides will tell me if I need to go to a 32 up front
Originally Posted by jm2e
My 1x10 setup on my YelliScreamy, this is what works for me in SoCal from Orange County to San Diego
RaceFace Chester crankset with 30t Wolf Tooth Components Ring: 104 BCD Chainrings | wolftoothcycling.com
Sram Type2 X9 Rear Derailer in Medium
KMC X10.93 10-speed chain
PC-1070 11-36 Cassette
Sram X9 Right(rear) shifter
MRP 1.x Chain-guide, I probably dont need this, but I like the extra security and it doesnt get in the way.
Last Post: 07-11-2013, 06:16 PM
By fuenstock in forum Urban/DJ/Park
Last Post: 04-20-2013, 09:08 PM
By gideon in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
Last Post: 07-01-2012, 06:28 AM
Last Post: 03-29-2012, 06:10 AM
Last Post: 01-16-2012, 07:29 PM