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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009

    Does my Reba need a rebuild?

    I've got a 2012 Reba dual air RTL . It's already been warrantied in the shop for air leaking out at 200 miles. Now the Lock-out doesn't seem to work at all and I really like to use the lock out. The fork has 1100 miles on it total, does it need a rebuild at this point? Do people only rebuild them when they dont hold the poss. or neg. pressure? Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    I'm assuming you've tried using the lockout after riding it and cycling it for a few minutes. Storing the bike on its side or upside down can result in fluid pooling on the top side of the damper which will affect the lockout.

    The most common cause for lockout issues on this fork is insufficient fluid in the damper chamber. What usually happens is that the o-ring in the bottom side of the damper chamber leaks and passes the damper fluid into the fork lowers. SRAM recommends o-ring replacement and fresh oil fairly frequently. I usually do mine every winter as I'm sitting inside longing for spring.

    Standard o-rings such as the ones SRAM uses actually aren't all that effective at retaining oil. You might have a slow migration of oil into the lowers and you can perform a quick fix if you'd like to avoid a full rebuild in the short term. You might find the issue reoccurs rather quickly, or you might find you're good for another 800miles. Here's what you do:
    1. Follow the SRAM service instructions to remove the lower leg bolt on the damping side only (you can do this with the fork on the bike, though I'd remove the wheel and be careful about getting oil on the brakes).
    2. Drain the oil and note how much comes out. SRAM typically only puts a couple ml's in the lowers for lubrication. If you get a 1/4 cup of oil out, then you've got a sizable leak from the damper.
    3. Refill the lowers and reassemble as instructed by SRAM.
    4. Remove the damper on the top side. Add oil until the level is just even with the bottom of the damper when it is screwed all the way in. You can wipe off the damper and use it as a dipstick to determine if you've got it right.

    If you've added the correct amount of oil, then the lockout will work. Too much oil and you'll have issues getting full compression. You can empty the positive/negative air chambers of the fork and check the motion up to full travel to verify this.

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