Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    76

    Crank Modification

    I have had a lot of great help from this site. I am real new to MTB'ing so I always appreciate the great input.

    My question today is... I have a Shimano XT 42/32/24 crank and a Shimano HG62 11-36 10 speed in the back. I am looking to make it a single crank up front and just use the 32 as I never use the others, and want the simplicity and worry free ride of the single crank. Is it possible to take the current Shimano XT 42/32/24 crank apart and remove the 42 and 24 "rings" and just use the 32, plus remove the derailleur all together? Or do I need to buy a new crank to accomplish this? If I do need a new one can you advise me of a good replacement? Thanks all!

    If I am leaving out necessary info just let me know!

  2. #2
    Riding rigid
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    178
    Yes, you can remove the 42 and 24 rings.

    You will need shorter ring bolts or replace the 42 with a bash guard and use the original bolts.
    Also an inner stopper would be a good idea to prevent the chain from dropping inwards, or use a chain guide from MRP or E13, or get one of them new rear derailleurs that keep the rear derailleur tensioned. The stock ring has pickup pins and lower profiled teeth at certain points for faster shifting, it may cause the chain to come off easier. A single speed chain ring usually has a taller profile.
    Last edited by MTB Pharm; 10-29-2012 at 06:26 AM. Reason: meant for single speed chain ring

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    76
    Thanks for the knowledge. I will work on getting this done! Great help

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ppfeifer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    275
    Instead of buying a single speed chain I'd buy a single speed chainring. E-thirteen makes really nice ones. I'd also consider using a slightly higher tooth count. 34T or 36T will keep you from spinning out. Don't forget to trim the chain to the proper length.

    Here's a link to an inexpensive chainguide. You'll find that chainguides are stupid expensive.

    Amazon.com: Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide - 31.8/34.9mm Clamp, Black: Sports & Outdoors

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    76
    Great advice! Thanks for the help

  6. #6
    Riding rigid
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    178
    ppfeifer - thanks for the correction, I meant single speed chain ring.

    Another less expensive option to help keep the chain in place is using a N-gear Jump Stop chain guide with a bash guard. Depending on how rough your trails are, this helps keep the chain on "most" of the time. If your trails are rougher, then the chain guides like the Origin 8, MRP and E-13s are better.

  7. #7
    Let's ride SuperModerator
    Reputation: rensho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    6,614
    Pushing a 36T on a 29er is pretty tough, unless you have mostly flat trails. Here in SF bay area, you'd have to be a pretty strong rider to ride 36T well.

    Ngear with a bash works really well, as stated above. If you are going to buy a new ring, make sure it will work with your 10sp chain. Some SS rings are not thin enough for 10sp chains.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    387
    Strong legs goew to 36t chainring... I am weak and going to 32t

    Send from Tapatalk via GalaxyTab

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    76
    Yeah I ride pretty much daily, and I dont think I could go with a 36t chainring.. The 32t suits me better I believe and then it also would cost me as much money as I already have it.. I just have to remove the unwanted rings..

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    21
    what i like to do is drop the big ring get a cheap bash guard to replace the big ring. leave the little gear on just in case the chain comes off so it doesn't f-up your frame. use your front derailluer as a chain guide. put a bigger screw in your adjuster (thanks dg/dave) to align properly and lose the shifter and never look back!
    I am running the stock 32 or33 i can't remember. one less thing to screw with on the trail and IT WILL MAKE YOU STRONGER! You will be suprised the stuff you can ride when you arn't worring if your in the right gear, just hammer down!

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    76
    That is kinda what I did. I removed the larger ring and kept the smaller one for safety. However I dont have a guide, just the tension keeps it on there. I've ridden 40miles or so since the conversion and it still works great!

  12. #12
    WTB 29 allmountain wheels
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    39
    I was curious about this conversion myself... subscribing. Thanks for the info.

  13. #13
    Tough Guy Extraordinaire
    Reputation: Shmack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    574
    I made mine with a tensioner from e13. Works like a champ! It is pretty secure in there. If my chain wasn't really trapped, I would be concerned about dropping in going really fast through really bumpy sections.

    I also have a 32 on the front. There we a few tough hills that I couldn't make with the 34, so I had to switch to a 32.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •