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  1. #1726
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    Question:

    Just pulled the trigger on a pair of Nancy's "wider" 29er rims and it's 12 days out. Woo hoo!

    So, I ran thru DT Swiss' Spoke Calc to get an idea of the weights. At an estimated 400g w/ a set of Kings...15mm LD front and 142x12 rear w/ SS drive shell, DT Revo spokes in a 32h 3x on both and alloy nips. The wight that was calc'd was 1625g. Is this heavy, light, medium? I don't have any basis for comparison in the 29er size...it would be considered pretty respectable for an AM class wheelset in the 26er world since my Reynolds MTN-C carbons are ~ 1450g. What would be a pretty typical wheelset weight? Thanks.
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  2. #1727
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Just pulled the trigger on a pair of Nancy's "wider" 29er rims and it's 12 days out. Woo hoo!

    So, I ran thru DT Swiss' Spoke Calc to get an idea of the weights. At an estimated 400g w/ a set of Kings...15mm LD front and 142x12 rear w/ SS drive shell, DT Revo spokes in a 32h 3x on both and alloy nips. The wight that was calc'd was 1625g. Is this heavy, light, medium? I don't have any basis for comparison in the 29er size...it would be considered pretty respectable for an AM class wheelset in the 26er world since my Reynolds MTN-C carbons are ~ 1450g. What would be a pretty typical wheelset weight? Thanks.

    Yes this is a light setup for chris kings but bear in mind hub weight doesn't contribute much to the rotating weight when you ride! Your chris king wheels are lighter than mine, our only difference is I used DT comp spokes.
    Pivot mach 6!

  3. #1728
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel RW View Post
    Yes this is a light setup for chris kings but bear in mind hub weight doesn't contribute much to the rotating weight when you ride! Your chris king wheels are lighter than mine, our only difference is I used DT comp spokes.
    Thanks Joel.
    Well, my weight was based only on Nancy's datasheet of designed rim weight (400g), and some best guess and addition to the standard CK ISO hub. When I ordered, I told her that I'd take a heavier rim, up to 425g, but not lighter since the build will be a stouty Tallboy LTc. So chances are, they'll turn out heavier. And yeah, rotational mass and all...
    The planned rubber will be a set of Trail King 2.2s so not exactly the best choice for the weight conscious. I was only curious of that weight in relation to other 29er wheels.
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  4. #1729
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Just pulled the trigger on a pair of Nancy's "wider" 29er rims and it's 12 days out. Woo hoo!

    So, I ran thru DT Swiss' Spoke Calc to get an idea of the weights. At an estimated 400g w/ a set of Kings...15mm LD front and 142x12 rear w/ SS drive shell, DT Revo spokes in a 32h 3x on both and alloy nips. The wight that was calc'd was 1625g. Is this heavy, light, medium? I don't have any basis for comparison in the 29er size...it would be considered pretty respectable for an AM class wheelset in the 26er world since my Reynolds MTN-C carbons are ~ 1450g. What would be a pretty typical wheelset weight? Thanks.
    Depends on your definition of "typical"? Plenty of weights, pictures and wheels have been posted in this loooooooooonnnnnngggg thread.

    In my case - whether it is typical or not - I used American Classic disc hubs with double butted Wheelsmith spokes on my AM rims and the wheels totaled 1540g before tape and valves (or in my case, strip and valves).

    1540g

    AM Chinese Carbon Wheels

    I convert the front hub back and forth between 9mm QR and 15mm TA depending on which bike the wheels are being used.

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  5. #1730
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Depends on your definition of "typical"? Plenty of weights, pictures and wheels have been posted in this loooooooooonnnnnngggg thread.
    Thanks BB!
    Digging thru 50+ pages...
    Yeah, you can call me lazy But after seeing your pic, maybe I'll just cruise thru and look for photos

    Say, how much do you weigh and is your riding style flowy or point/plow?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  6. #1731
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Depends on your definition of "typical"? Plenty of weights, pictures and wheels have been posted in this loooooooooonnnnnngggg thread.

    In my case - whether it is typical or not - I used American Classic disc hubs with double butted Wheelsmith spokes on my AM rims and the wheels totaled 1540g before tape and valves (or in my case, strip and valves).

    I convert the front hub back and forth between 9mm QR and 15mm TA depending on which bike the wheels are being used.

    BB
    Did you get the matte finish?
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  7. #1732
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    Nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Just pulled the trigger on a pair of Nancy's "wider" 29er rims and it's 12 days out. Woo hoo!

    So, I ran thru DT Swiss' Spoke Calc to get an idea of the weights. At an estimated 400g w/ a set of Kings...15mm LD front and 142x12 rear w/ SS drive shell, DT Revo spokes in a 32h 3x on both and alloy nips. The wight that was calc'd was 1625g. Is this heavy, light, medium? I don't have any basis for comparison in the 29er size...it would be considered pretty respectable for an AM class wheelset in the 26er world since my Reynolds MTN-C carbons are ~ 1450g. What would be a pretty typical wheelset weight? Thanks.
    That is medium-light for a set of XC wheels...

    You can compare the published weights with any of the prefab wheels out there, like FSAs, Bontragers, SunRingles, etc.

    but....

    These are quite a bit stiffer than your 19mm internal width aluminum XC wheels, more like trailbike, almost freeride wheels. They are a bunch wider for better tire footprint, and lower pressures.

    As far as durability, I have no idea, but I would guess that they are going to be a bunch stronger (as in, take more abuse without failing) than your regular kinda XC wheel.

    So far, I'm digging my NancyWiderCarbon rims. (NWC?). My bike is feeling more point-and-shoot through rocky bits, and still feels snappy.

  8. #1733
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    That is medium-light for a set of XC wheels...
    but.... are quite a bit stiffer than your 19mm internal width aluminum XC wheels, more like trailbike, almost freeride wheels. They are a bunch wider for better tire footprint, and lower pressures.

    As far as durability, I have no idea, but I would guess that they are going to be a bunch stronger (as in, take more abuse without failing) than your regular kinda XC wheel.
    Thanks PB.
    My goals w/ this wheelset/bike is def NOT XC, but not quite to FR either. I'm thinking that it'll straddle a trail bike and a medium-duty AM bike. Coming from a DH background, it's hard to NOT point/plow. I'm doing carbon to deal w/ the acceleration lag...less mass at the outer perimeter to get quicker spin-ups...at least to better my big bike wheel's spin-up lag. I think this is also why I'm perplexed when ppl complain about the sluggish turning of a 29er vs a 26. You have no idea what slow turning is until you've thrown around an 8" dual crown 40lbs plow machine at low speeds!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  9. #1734
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    I ordered my second set of rims the other day. 32H matte, wide, normal weight. I just bought some hadley hubs to mount these to. I have not ever had a hub with such high engagement. I will be thoroughly stress testing these wheels at my weight. My current set was layered up for clydes, this set will be normal. I am counting on continued weight loss.

  10. #1735
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    Quote Originally Posted by Perfect Gentleman View Post
    Johnnydrz, DT Swiss AeroLite or Sapim CX-Ray. I'm for Aerolite.
    but really it depends on rider's weight.
    Thanks Perfect Gentleman, I just ordered Aerolite spokes.

  11. #1736
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    I managed to destroy one of these rims while pumping up a tubeless setup tonight.

    There I was, moments from riding my new bike... BOOM! Tire blows off of the rim.

    My eardrums ring and i'm deaf for a couple of minutes. Limbs and digits? Check. Whew. Just bruised fingers, thighs and a shin gouge like I normally get from pedal strikes.

    And that's it, one of my new wheels is obliterated. As long as the ringing in my right ear stops, I'll feel pretty lucky. And stupid... while cleaning Stans off of the ceiling.

    Admittedly, I had it pumped up to 70psi and the tire was rated to only 65psi. That's my normal procedure while seating a new tire. Or at least it was up until today. I'll have to reevaluate my technique. ;-)
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  12. #1737
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    Wow, that sucks!

    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    I managed to destroy one of these rims while pumping up a tubeless setup tonight.

    There I was, moments from riding my new bike... BOOM! Tire blows off of the rim.

    My eardrums ring and i'm deaf for a couple of minutes. Limbs and digits? Check. Whew. Just bruised fingers, thighs and a shin gouge like I normally get from pedal strikes.

    And that's it, one of my new wheels is obliterated. As long as the ringing in my right ear stops, I'll feel pretty lucky. And stupid... while cleaning Stans off of the ceiling.

    Admittedly, I had it pumped up to 70psi and the tire was rated to only 65psi. That's my normal procedure while seating a new tire. Or at least it was up until today. I'll have to reevaluate my technique. ;-)
    Sorry to hear that.

    But yeah, 70 psi - bad.

  13. #1738
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Sorry to hear that.

    But yeah, 70 psi - bad.
    Yeah, I take responsibility for doing that. While I've been doing it for over 20 years, it was probably the wrong thing to be doing all of that time.

    Is it common for rims to disintegrate at 70 psi?

  14. #1739
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    I'm sure you already know what you did wrong, but to reiterate to those who have no clue, you don't need any more than 40PSI to seat a tire. I've replaced my tires three times on these rims(using Bonty strips) and the most I've needed was 35PSI for a new Schwalbe NobbyNic. Once you hit 40PSI, take a look at the tire to see if it's seated. Just because there's no POP sound doesn't mean it didn't seat! IF it hasn't seated at 40PSI, usually some smacking the tire on the ground will get it to seat. In my countless tubeless setups with all kinds of tires and rims, 40+PSI just isn't necessary...

    Thank you for admitting to destroying it by making a mistake We definitely don't need any false information floating around for these awesome rims that so many people still seem to be skeptical of.

  15. #1740
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    I managed to destroy one of these rims while pumping up a tubeless setup tonight.

    There I was, moments from riding my new bike... BOOM! Tire blows off of the rim.

    My eardrums ring and i'm deaf for a couple of minutes. Limbs and digits? Check. Whew. Just bruised fingers, thighs and a shin gouge like I normally get from pedal strikes.

    And that's it, one of my new wheels is obliterated. As long as the ringing in my right ear stops, I'll feel pretty lucky. And stupid... while cleaning Stans off of the ceiling.

    Admittedly, I had it pumped up to 70psi and the tire was rated to only 65psi. That's my normal procedure while seating a new tire. Or at least it was up until today. I'll have to reevaluate my technique. ;-)
    70 psi is out of control.
    no reason for that.
    sucks that you learned the hard way.
    thanks for posting the carnage.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  16. #1741
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    Not to beat a dead horse, but as an example the Stans ArchEx rims specify not to exceed 40 PSI. Wonder what would happen to that rim at 70 PSI?!

    Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2

  17. #1742
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Admittedly, I had it pumped up to 70psi and the tire was rated to only 65psi. That's my normal procedure while seating a new tire. Or at least it was up until today. I'll have to reevaluate my technique. ;-)
    The problem is the 70psi... Tubeless for mountain bikes allows you to run less pressure. Tires are rated to 65psi with a tube in it, riding on a fire road.

    Tubeless is completely different some tires even say on them what their tubeless pressure is. 40psi MAX or it will blow off. If it's not seated at 40psi it isn't going to seat. I hate to say it but you ruined it all by yourself due to your own ignorance.

    The problem wasn't the rim. The problem with the rim happened because the tire blew off. The tire blew off because there was more than twice the recommended tubeless pressure in it.

    Take down the photos and warranty it. Don't mention that you put that much air in it. It shouldn't have destroyed the rim.

  18. #1743
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    Go ahead, beat me up. I used too much pressure.

    But I am honest and will pay for the replacement. The pictures will serve as warning to other people who might be seating their tires with extra pressure. As indicated here, this is especially bad for tubeless setups. While it was never a problem for me with dozens of rims in the past, it was this time. Probably because of the tubeless.

    I sent pictures to light-bicycle. Perhaps they too will include a warning about not going near the max psi.

  19. #1744
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    Looks like when the tire blew off the rim the friction delaminated the carbon plies. A load it's not designed to take. Plies of carbon can be easy to peel off one another if you get a sharp object and split it like a log splitter in the end grain.

    Could be a sign they are using lower spec. cold cure layups rather than the more expensive hot cure prepregs with much higher peel strength?

  20. #1745
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    The problem is the 70psi... Tubeless for mountain bikes allows you to run less pressure. Tires are rated to 65psi with a tube in it, riding on a fire road.
    I hate to say it but you ruined it all by yourself due to your own ignorance.

    The problem wasn't the rim. The problem with the rim happened because the tire blew off. The tire blew off because there was more than twice the recommended tubeless pressure in it.

    Take down the photos and warranty it. Don't mention that you put that much air in it. It shouldn't have destroyed the rim.
    really?

  21. #1746
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    dfiler, you mentioned you had gouges in your shin. Was that from pieces of carbon breaking off and cutting you?

    BTW, I admire your mea culpa attitude in a forum like this.

  22. #1747
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    There didn't appear to be any shrapnel in the mess I mopped up. My guess is that the rim, rotor or tire impacted me. The tire ended up through a doorway in another room. I've got some pretty interesting bruises and abrasions. But it appears that the rim remained in one piece, shattered but still in one piece.

  23. #1748
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfdog93 View Post
    Tonight I installed the Bonty rim strips and WOW, pretty impressive.
    I had ridden my wheels with Racing Ralphs tubeless for 3 or 4 weeks and had no problem without the strips but noticed that at 17 psi (front) I could get the tire to burp by pressing very hard in the sidewalls with my thumbs.
    On first install, I had some air leaking past the valve, so added a dab of goop between the valve and strip and that solved the issue.
    The hard part was getting the (plastic) tire irons back under the tire bead after the rim strip was installed.......so tight and I didn't want to damage anything. Changing tires will definitely take some time.
    I am having the same air leak issue around the valve stems using the Light Bicycles rim and Bonty strips. I think I've cured it on one but the other leaks like a sieve, despite applying latex around the valve stem and cranking down on the knurled nut. The valve stem I am using is a Stan's with the rubber base. I tried the Bonty version (metal with an o-ring) first but it was much worse.

    The tires (Nobby Nic 2.35 (rear) and Ardent 2.4 (front)) seat up very tightly and the bead is popping into place around 25 PSI. The easiest way I've found to get them on and off (I've been trying for a while! ) is to ensure they're pulled off the bead and into the center channel all the way round.

    Any suggestions on this? I'm about set to get remove the strip on my front tire and see if I can get it to seal up... I have a big ride planned for tomorrow and would really like to use the new wheels!
    Santa Cruz Tallboy - lovin' the full squish 29'r!

  24. #1749
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    Take down the photos and warranty it. Don't mention that you put that much air in it. It shouldn't have destroyed the rim.
    Shameful
    There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."

  25. #1750
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    The problem is the 70psi... Tubeless for mountain bikes allows you to run less pressure. Tires are rated to 65psi with a tube in it, riding on a fire road.

    Tubeless is completely different some tires even say on them what their tubeless pressure is. 40psi MAX or it will blow off. If it's not seated at 40psi it isn't going to seat. I hate to say it but you ruined it all by yourself due to your own ignorance.

    The problem wasn't the rim. The problem with the rim happened because the tire blew off. The tire blew off because there was more than twice the recommended tubeless pressure in it.

    Take down the photos and warranty it. Don't mention that you put that much air in it. It shouldn't have destroyed the rim.
    I give dfiler props for coming out like this. He never claimed it the was the rim's fault. Sounds like someone is twisting his comments just so they can make a rebuttal. I only see one hint of ignorance and it wasn't in any of dfilers posts.

    Dfiler, I appreciate owning up, to prevent bad quality rumors. I'm waiting for my carbon rim as we speak.

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