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  1. #3251
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    Curious what the problem was? I just ordered some 38mm road wheels for use with rim brakes - have only used their rims brakeless or with disc in the past.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2002maniac View Post
    Anyone had any luck getting light-bicycle to honor their warranty?

    I have a pair of 700c road rims that bulged after my first descent. "Nancy" said that this was a known problem and they could warranty them no problem.

  2. #3252
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    That's kind of strange. I had an issue with a 650B rim that I received from LB where a portion of the bead hook looked missing. I contacted Brian at LB and sent him some pictures. He had me mail the rim to an address in New York and once he got confirmation the defective rim was received I was sent a new rim within a week or two.
    If I were you I would e-mail them again and get a date from them and tell them if the rims do not ship by that date you want a refund.
    I would do it soon since Chinese New Year is coming up in a week and they'll most likely be on vacation for 2 weeks.

  3. #3253
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    Ok been wondering where to post this, but since so many wheel builders appear to frequent this thread, and I do have these carbon rims, I will ask here......
    Not sure what spoke lengths to choose, given the calculator output vs the available sizes of DT Revolution which are in 2mm increments.......

    So am I good going with 292mm?
    Not sure if this helps, but Chad at Red Barn just built my LB wheels up with DT240s and DT Revs and he included the spoke length info, etc in the box. As many of you probably know Chad is a highly respected builder and has done up quite a few Chinese carbon builds from what he told me over the phone. Here's the info I have from the notes he included in the box...

    Rims = Chinese 29er 32h (ERD = 601)
    Hubs = DT Swiss 32H 100QR 135 QR
    Flange Diameter - F = (L-58 R-42) & R = (L- 57 R-48)

    Center to Flange
    Front Left = 290
    Front Right = 295
    Rear Left = 291
    Rear Right = 292

  4. #3254
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    The last set I built was the same DT 240 hubs with DT Revolution spokes. I used:
    Front left 291
    Front right 295
    Rear left 292
    Rear right 292
    This was rounding down from spoke calc spreadsheet that I use which came out to:
    Front left 291.2
    Front right 295
    Rear Left 292.5
    Rear Left 292.6
    The wheels came out perfect with the ends of the spokes around 1mm inside the nipples.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  5. #3255
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    Quote Originally Posted by broadwayline View Post
    Curious what the problem was? I just ordered some 38mm road wheels for use with rim brakes - have only used their rims brakeless or with disc in the past.
    Both rims overheated and bulged at the brake track. It was a pretty scary failure on a high speed descent! they say the deeper rims are less likely to have this problem, but beware.

    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    That's kind of strange. I had an issue with a 650B rim that I received from LB where a portion of the bead hook looked missing. I contacted Brian at LB and sent him some pictures. He had me mail the rim to an address in New York and once he got confirmation the defective rim was received I was sent a new rim within a week or two.
    If I were you I would e-mail them again and get a date from them and tell them if the rims do not ship by that date you want a refund.
    I would do it soon since Chinese New Year is coming up in a week and they'll most likely be on vacation for 2 weeks.
    Still have not heard a peep from them. I've tried contacting them at both their sales and support email addresses. I think they screwed me.

    Be careful with light-bicycle.com guys!

  6. #3256
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    Just wanted to throw this up...

    I rebuilt mine today ...w/ brass niplers...galvanic corrosion concerns, valid or not...whatev. And since I had them tore down, thought I'd throw them on a scale. Not nearly as light as I thought, but hey hey're stiffer than a 20 y.o. on 200mg of Viagra!
    Frt: LB wider and heavier 29er (433g), King LD, DT Swiss Comps 292mm, DT hex brass, 3X
    RR: LB wider and heavier 29er (429g), King HD 142 (ss driveshell), DT Comps 292mm, DT hex brass, 3X

    Pic taken w/o rim strip or valve...

    Didn't really use my tension meter and just went by tone. If anyone's interested, I can slap the tension meter on them and get you some numbers. Used anti-seize for thread and nipler head lube...made for one quiet build session! Normally, I'd get creaking and popping when I side-load the wheel to unwind the nipler/spokes. This time, not a peep! I think I was able to get a bit higher tension w/ anti-seize also...the nipples didn't bind on the carbon/resin as much. I can't recall who on here said they used some chopsticks to apply anti-seize, but thanks for the idea!

    Edit: Harbor Freight scale (reads as CHEAP) so accuracy might be a bit suspect...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-lb-king-comps-rr-1057g.jpg  

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-lb-king-comp-frt-867g.jpg  

    Last edited by Pau11y; 02-04-2013 at 06:29 AM.
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  7. #3257
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    Your welcome!
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  8. #3258
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    You R da guy!

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Your welcome!
    That was you? Yeah, that worked well! I hate that creaking/popping when I tension up a wheel...almost like you have to tension at indexed points...and then it's not really tensioning, more like just twisting the spokes. The anti-seize seems to let the spokes not wind up nearly as much and spin free of the nipples

    I was wondering what the hell I was going to do w/ all that anti-seize...$15 at an auto parts store got me 3 life-time supply of the stuff
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  9. #3259
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    Before we get too excited, I wouldn't neccessarily chalk this one up soley to corrosion. Its hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like the spoke was a few mm's short which puts the nipple purely in tension. Ideally (from what I've read ), the spoke should protrude past the plane where it seats in rim so that it's loaded in both compression and tension. Looks like a tensile failure to me. Whether or not corrision was a contributing factor is debateable. Also very well possible that you got a couple of bad nipples.

    Meltingfeather, call me out if I'm wrong here.
    +1

    And anodizing is done with Sulfuric acid, not caustic soda.
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  10. #3260
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    Pau11y: I have had my "jar" of anti-sieze for probably 10 years and it is still close to half full, but there are times when nothing else works. I recommend to use it on lug nuts since they often get "intimate" with alloy wheels and the time you need to remove them you often do not have an impact.
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  11. #3261
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    Copper or Nickel anti-seize? Any preferences?

  12. #3262
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Pau11y: I have had my "jar" of anti-sieze for probably 10 years and it is still close to half full, but there are times when nothing else works. I recommend to use it on lug nuts since they often get "intimate" with alloy wheels and the time you need to remove them you often do not have an impact.
    Yup, I'm using anti-seize everywhere (liberally) that requires lubrication on parts that doesn't see constant rotation...on cars and bikes. But liberally is kinda subjective w/ anti-seize...it doesn't take much at all! And, it's amazing how quiet your bike becomes once you switch over to anti-seize vs grease on threaded parts!

    But be careful w/ the stuff around rugs...makes an awful mess! The only thing I've found that works is Oxyclean based rug cleaner.
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  13. #3263
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002maniac View Post
    Both rims overheated and bulged at the brake track. It was a pretty scary failure on a high speed descent! they say the deeper rims are less likely to have this problem, but beware.



    Still have not heard a peep from them. I've tried contacting them at both their sales and support email addresses. I think they screwed me.

    Be careful with light-bicycle.com guys!
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  14. #3264
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    I bought the 23.5mm wide carbon rims from Carbonality. Ran them tubeless for cyclocross. After a couple CX races I noticed a bulge around one rim and a crack on another. They were cracking at the valve hole. I emailed Jason, whom has been in this thread several times (I think someone rudely referred to him as a "shill" once) , and he took care of me immediately! Great service! I have two new rims coming, only had to pay like 20 bucks for shipping.

    He said they were aware of the issue on that run of rims and they have since been beefed up, redesigned. I think I bought these back in June or July... Anyway, I'm bummed I have to rebuild them, that was PITA! Aluminum nips and Rev's just weren't playing nice. But, I'm pretty stoked on his service. I'll buy more stuff from him for sure! 650b frame and wheels will be next!



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  15. #3265
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    For those of you who arent following the ENVE Al nipple corrosion thread on the wheel forum, here is a picture. The guy paid $2700 for his set of wheels ($800 just for each rim) and ENVE pretty much said he is SOL. Ill take my light bicycles rims any day @ $160 each for the rims.


  16. #3266
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Rim hookless is worth?

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  17. #3267
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    I know this has been in the thread, but i wasnt sure i was going to get some of these carbon wheels so I didn't take note of where it was but....Ihave a set of LB thinner 29 carbon wheels ordered expected to arrive in the next couple of days, and I want to do a stans tape Kind of tubeless. My question is.., what width tape should I use? And if anyone took note could they tell me where in the thread I can see this kind of info, I would be very greatful. I have read almost all of the pages here and am very thankful for all the great information

  18. #3268
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    21mm tape and standard 26" rim strip. You can try the XC 29er rim strip, but I feel they fit too loose on the rim.
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  19. #3269
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    light-bicycle.com "new process" 29er wheels

    Ordered these from light-bicycle.com 22nd January, USPS tried delivering them February 5th, actually got them on the 6th. Very good communication from Brian.

    • "Wider" 29" rim on new early 2013 mold/process
    • Novatec D711/D712 hubs
    • 32 spoke
    • Alloy nipples
    • No decals

    Without tape, skewers etc. weights come in at 696g front and 840g rear. Seem nice and true, quick ping test suggests pretty even spoke tension. I'll be running these with tubes.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-front.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-rear.jpg

  20. #3270
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    I just received my 29AM rims as well and they look great. Holes are perfectly round and smooth edges. Finishing was fantastic. I can't wait to try the rickers stickers I just received. They replace the liner and should save me about an additional ounce.

    Yamon.

  21. #3271
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    Thanks. i will try out some stans tape and see how it goes.

  22. #3272
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    How many clicks or ratcheting stops, sometimes called points-of-engagement, does the rear Novatec D711/D712 hubs hub have during one freewheel revolution?

    Thanks!

  23. #3273
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    Just picked mine up from USPS. These are new process, wider, "normal" weight 29er, 32h, matte - 385g/396g. Fit and finish looks really good. Bead hooks are perfectly smooth. Holes are all straight and smooth edged as well.

  24. #3274
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    Quote Originally Posted by botanicbiker View Post
    Just picked mine up from USPS. These are new process, wider, "normal" weight 29er, 32h, matte - 385g/396g. Fit and finish looks really good. Bead hooks are perfectly smooth. Holes are all straight and smooth edged as well.
    Put the two side by side and rotate them thru at least 90 degrees to see how flat they are

    Are these fab'd w/ the new process?
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  25. #3275
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Pau11y: I have had my "jar" of anti-sieze for probably 10 years and it is still close to half full, but there are times when nothing else works. I recommend to use it on lug nuts since they often get "intimate" with alloy wheels and the time you need to remove them you often do not have an impact.
    So I was digging around on roadbikereview.com since they've adopted cf rims well before we did and came across these:
    Titanium Bike Wheel Nipples - Bicycle Spoke Nipples | Titan Wheel Tech Bicycle Components

    I'm not suggesting Ti nipples, but rather the use of anti-seize. Seems there is a legit precedence for the use of anti-seize to prep spokes/nipples!
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  26. #3276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Put the two side by side and rotate them thru at least 90 degrees to see how flat they are

    Are these fab'd w/ the new process?
    Yes, these were made with the new process.

    I put them on our kitchen island counter, which I know is level. One is perfectly flat, the other has a small <16th" fluctuation.

  27. #3277
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaceharrier View Post
    Ordered these from light-bicycle.com 22nd January, USPS tried delivering them February 5th, actually got them on the 6th. Very good communication from Brian.

    • "Wider" 29" rim on new early 2013 mold/process
    • Novatec D711/D712 hubs
    • 32 spoke
    • Alloy nipples
    • No decals

    Without tape, skewers etc. weights come in at 696g front and 840g rear. Seem nice and true, quick ping test suggests pretty even spoke tension. I'll be running these with tubes.
    So one minor initial concern: these are an absolute bastard to get tires onto. In fact, I haven't successfully managed to get my tires on (Small Block 8 rear, Ignitor front). Bent one Park tire lever getting the Ignitor on only to have pinched the tube, and wasn't able to get the SB8 all the way on -- and that's a tire that's mountable without levers on my old rims.

    Definitely the hardest to mount rims I've owned. Any tips for things that aren't likely to damage the carbon?

    EDIT: The problem here was my technique. Once I followed the method suggested below (post #3280) the tires went on just fine.
    Last edited by spaceharrier; 02-09-2013 at 10:26 AM.

  28. #3278
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    Hmmm... mine weren't a problem. They were snug, but not any harder than any of my other rims. I'm running a Bontrater Jones XR1 on the rear (the square blocky one) and a WTB Werewolf LT 2.55. My Werewolf wouldn't seal up tubeless with Stan's tape alone reliably, but the Jones sealed up with a Bontrager rim strip, and it was snug, but not so snug I couldn't do it by hand.

    My Bontrager Mustang 29er rim brake rims are a total bastard to get the tires on.

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceharrier View Post
    So one minor initial concern: these are an absolute bastard to get tires onto. In fact, I haven't successfully managed to get my tires on (Small Block 8 rear, Ignitor front). Bent one Park tire lever getting the Ignitor on only to have pinched the tube, and wasn't able to get the SB8 all the way on -- and that's a tire that's mountable without levers on my old rims.

    Definitely the hardest to mount rims I've owned. Any tips for things that aren't likely to damage the carbon?

  29. #3279
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    Quote Originally Posted by botanicbiker View Post
    Yes, these were made with the new process.
    Any issue w/ getting tires on your? Seems someone else is having some problems getting tires on some rims that he received recently.
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  30. #3280
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    Hate to tell you but it is probably your technique. Put the tire inside the rim with bead on both sides of the rim. Start away from the valve on one side and work the bead on in both directions until you get to the valve area. While using your thumb, pull the bead tight as though you are trying to pull the last bit over and on. While doing this take the other hand and run it around the rim pushing the bead into the center of the rim. As you do this the thumb should be taking up the new slack you are making. Now that the bead is in the channel, use both thumbs to put the last bit over the rim edge. Do the same procedure with the other side. This side will be harder because you will really have to push to get the bead down in the channel since the other bead is already there and you will have to push it out of the way to some extent.
    I showed a guy that had been a mountain biker for 10 years and done many tires this technique and he was shocked at how much easier it was than what he had been doing. These rims with tape are easy to get the tires on. With Bontrager rim strips they are moderately hard, but no where near the hardest.
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  31. #3281
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Hate to tell you but it is probably your technique. Put the tire inside the rim with bead on both sides of the rim. Start away from the valve on one side and work the bead on in both directions until you get to the valve area. While using your thumb, pull the bead tight as though you are trying to pull the last bit over and on. While doing this take the other hand and run it around the rim pushing the bead into the center of the rim. As you do this the thumb should be taking up the new slack you are making. Now that the bead is in the channel, use both thumbs to put the last bit over the rim edge. Do the same procedure with the other side. This side will be harder because you will really have to push to get the bead down in the channel since the other bead is already there and you will have to push it out of the way to some extent.
    I showed a guy that had been a mountain biker for 10 years and done many tires this technique and he was shocked at how much easier it was than what he had been doing. These rims with tape are easy to get the tires on. With Bontrager rim strips they are moderately hard, but no where near the hardest.
    Actually I'm certainly hoping it's my technique. I'll give what you describe a go.

  32. #3282
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    The other thought to consider is that your wheels were under-tensioned when they were built. I think I remember other people that bought the rims built up by the factory reporting that the tension was too low.
    I built up and tensioned my rims myself and noticed the tension went down once I mounted and inflated the tires. So, although they are very stiff laterally, they do have vertical compliance (which is nice for the ride). Increasing the tension on an under-tensioned wheel would make it smaller in diameter and easier to put on a tire. By how much, I honestly don't know. And I'm not advocating increasing the tension just for that reason, but am thinking that if you are having so much trouble putting on a tire it may be worth at least confirming proper spoke tension.


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  33. #3283
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Any issue w/ getting tires on your? Seems someone else is having some problems getting tires on some rims that he received recently.
    Just mounted up a Racing Ralph (2.25) and a Nobbie Nic (2.35) easily and without a tire lever.

  34. #3284
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    I built up the rear and it built up really nicely and was very easy to get true. High tension was really easy to get, but I am a little concerned I built it with higher than optimal tension. By the time I checked it and had it done, the drive side was at 148. I know they specify 180 as the limit in tension, but 148 is higher than I have ever built a wheel with. Is there any downside to leaving it that high?

  35. #3285
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Haymarket View Post
    I built up the rear and it built up really nicely and was very easy to get true. High tension was really easy to get, but I am a little concerned I built it with higher than optimal tension. By the time I checked it and had it done, the drive side was at 148. I know they specify 180 as the limit in tension, but 148 is higher than I have ever built a wheel with. Is there any downside to leaving it that high?
    Wow. 32 spoke 3x?

    What hubs, spokes and nipples? Any spoke prep?

  36. #3286
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Haymarket View Post
    I know they specify 180 as the limit in tension, but 148 is higher than I have ever built a wheel with. Is there any downside to leaving it that high?
    Yes. You've put unnecessarily high stress on the other components of the wheel.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  37. #3287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    Wow. 32 spoke 3x?

    What hubs, spokes and nipples? Any spoke prep?
    Hadleys with Sapim double butted (2.0/1.8) spokes and aluminum nipples. I used Never Seize on the threads and light oil in the spoke holes, like I usually do. 3x.
    Last edited by Haymarket; 02-08-2013 at 02:30 PM.

  38. #3288
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    Yes. You've put unnecessarily high stress on the other components of the wheel.
    I also built my rear wheel with the same tension as Haymarket with similar setup (32 1.5 mm Pillar round spokes, 3x, Al nipples, DT Swiss 240S hubs).

    So, what is the highest tension you recommend? .

  39. #3289
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    It would be best to use normal tension with these rims. For one thing, there is no advantage to the higher tension. It won't make a noticeably stiffer wheel. In fact, wheel stiffness has almost nothing to do with tension as long as the spokes aren't loose. Also, there is the possibility of ripping the hub flange apart. I've personally witnessed that 3 times in my life. Ive also seen spokes ripped out of nipples and nipples pulled through rims. I can't say for sure that these failures happened due to too high of tension, but why take the chance? There really isn't a benefit to running higher tension.

  40. #3290
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    For one thing, there is no advantage to the higher tension.
    The only advantage is the wheels propensity to stay true but this is associated to equal tension just as much as high tension (IMHO).

    The rims design for high tension is based on lower spoke 2x configurations. Think Mavic Crossmax hubs, straight pull, 24 count.

  41. #3291
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    It would be best to use normal tension with these rims. For one thing, there is no advantage to the higher tension. It won't make a noticeably stiffer wheel. In fact, wheel stiffness has almost nothing to do with tension as long as the spokes aren't loose. Also, there is the possibility of ripping the hub flange apart. I've personally witnessed that 3 times in my life. Ive also seen spokes ripped out of nipples and nipples pulled through rims. I can't say for sure that these failures happened due to too high of tension, but why take the chance? There really isn't a benefit to running higher tension.
    So, how much would "normal" be on the drive side with my setup?

    Jobst Brandt does not specify much about specific figures in his book and uses the tone to tune the wheel. Also Roger Musson claims that he does not use tensiometers and build his wheels from the tone, but he actually once mention a specific figure, 130 kgf, in his long text, "Professional Guide to Wheel Building" 5th Ed. page 60 : "The lowest tensioned wheels I build use lightweight ZTR rims with a recommended tension of 95 kg (930 N) and all other rims I build are 130 kg (1250 N) and each wheel perform fine". I assume 130 kgf is the average spoke tension i.e. average of left and right side. The rear wheel drive side will have much more (almost double) tension compared to the non-drive side to be correctly dished and with the Haymarket's 148 (kgf) on the drive side the average spoke tension will be well below 130 kgf. Or, have I misunderstood, is the spoke tension Roger (and Light Bicycle) talk about, the maximum spoke tension on any side of the wheel and not the average? This is a huge difference when we are talking about the rear wheel.

  42. #3292
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    The rims are rated for very high tension, but that is not the only consideration. The hubs are also rated and I would bet at a somewhat lower tension and the spokes are also rated although they probably are almost as high as the rims. That said, you need to find the rating for your hubs and let that be your guide. If you can't find that, I generally shoot for 20 on the Park guage on the "tight" side. I generally end up with the highest readings around 18-20 and the other side will generally end up around 10-16 depending on the offset, flange height , etc. The most likely problem with building too high tension is the flange breaking.
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  43. #3293
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    The rims are rated for very high tension, but that is not the only consideration. The hubs are also rated and I would bet at a somewhat lower tension and the spokes are also rated although they probably are almost as high as the rims. That said, you need to find the rating for your hubs and let that be your guide. If you can't find that, I generally shoot for 20 on the Park guage on the "tight" side. I generally end up with the highest readings around 18-20 and the other side will generally end up around 10-16 depending on the offset, flange height , etc. The most likely problem with building too high tension is the flange breaking.
    I have sapim double butted (is it byooted or butt-ed?) and have about 24 on the drive side and 18 on the non drive side.

  44. #3294
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    Regarding some hubs having a recommended max tension, as an example, here's an excerpt out of the Chris King hub manual:

    Wheel building
    [...] Disc brake wheels must be laced using a 3-or-more-cross lacing pattern. As the
    torque generated by driving the cassette requires crossed spokes, so does the
    additional torque on the non-drive side flange generated by the braking action.
    Radial lacing your ISO hubs is considered outside of the intended use and will void
    your warranty. [...]
    The front ISO should be laced 3-or-more-cross with the rotor (left) side pulling spokes
    (relative to braking direction) heads out/elbows in (when laced 3-cross). The final
    cross of the pulling spoke must be on the outside so that, as braking force is applied,
    increased pulling spoke tension will pull the crossed spokes towards the center of
    the hub and away from the caliper. Lace the wheel symmetrically.
    The spoke tension on each side of the wheel should be as uniform as possible.
    Tension should not exceed 120kgf (1200N).
    Proper wheel building technique is essential in creating a strong wheel. Wheel
    building is a skill that requires proper training and specialized tools and should be done
    by a trained professional.
    Except from another part of the CK site:

    In rare cases, when the wheel has been built at very high tension, the large drive side bearing can become loose and cause creaking.

  45. #3295
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Mark, for later reading.

  46. #3296
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    Note that a max tensile force rating of the rim for spokes is not the same as the advisable spoke tension when building the wheel.
    A "normal" spoke tension is about 110 kgf for the rear drive side and left front (when using disc hubs). Going (much) higher should not be needed (unloaded spokes during use will not detension completely) and will not make a stiffer wheel (this has been discussed at length on this forum).
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  47. #3297
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Hate to tell you but it is probably your technique. Put the tire inside the rim with bead on both sides of the rim. Start away from the valve on one side and work the bead on in both directions until you get to the valve area. While using your thumb, pull the bead tight as though you are trying to pull the last bit over and on. While doing this take the other hand and run it around the rim pushing the bead into the center of the rim. As you do this the thumb should be taking up the new slack you are making. Now that the bead is in the channel, use both thumbs to put the last bit over the rim edge. Do the same procedure with the other side. This side will be harder because you will really have to push to get the bead down in the channel since the other bead is already there and you will have to push it out of the way to some extent.
    I showed a guy that had been a mountain biker for 10 years and done many tires this technique and he was shocked at how much easier it was than what he had been doing. These rims with tape are easy to get the tires on. With Bontrager rim strips they are moderately hard, but no where near the hardest.
    OK, so it was indeed my technique -- what you suggested worked just fine. My (just now invented) excuse is that looking at the rim cross section the edges where the bead seats are wider and flatter than I'm used to. Think all my other rims in living memory have had steeper and narrower runs into the channel causing the bead to get pulled into it by itself when pulled on the opposite side.

    So anyway, tucking the bead into the center channel by hand let these seat up without levers. Thanks.

  48. #3298
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    Is anyone in the States building up custom wheels with the Chinese carbon rims? I don't want to deal with ordering, shipping and building them myself. Lazy, I know.

  49. #3299
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeZee View Post
    I hope your results are better than mine......

    Good luck with that junk.

  50. #3300
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlazedHam View Post
    Is anyone in the States building up custom wheels with the Chinese carbon rims? I don't want to deal with ordering, shipping and building them myself. Lazy, I know.
    bikeempowerment.com does. I just ordered the rims myself and had them shipped to Chad at Red Barn Bicycles to be built up.

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