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  1. #6301
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    They appear to be heavy.
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  2. #6302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camaleon View Post
    It seems to me after randomly scrolling through 6303 messages that general consensus is to go with the LB wheels so has anyone had any experience with these other ones;
    700c carbon fiber rims, Carbon MTB wheels MTB Rims items in diy-bike store on eBay!
    Wheels or rims? Big difference. I don't think the general consensus is to go with their wheels. So far what I've seen people posting would tend to indicate LB doesn't how to build a wheel properly.
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  3. #6303
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    29er 30 mm hookless options

    I have built four 29er wheels with the LB 30 mm "wide" rims with rim hooks and I have good experience with LB and the wheels I have built have served my terrific on my FS and HT for two years now.
    I will now build two new 29er wheels with 30 mm hookless rims and I updated myself by reading the last months of this thread before buying (I followed it the first years). There seems to be three options:
    1. Buy from LB, but these rims are not listed on their web-site! No prices, no weights, no dimensions. A total secret product and if you want any information you have to e-mail them. Funny. Still it seems to be the preferred vendor on this forum! The rims appear to have 24 mm inner width according to e-mail published on this forum.
    2. Buy from Xiamen Iplay. These rims are different and have an inner width of 26 mm and a weight of 410 g. Larger inner width is a good thing from a tire geometry perspective, but it may make the rim sidewalls weaker (?) I would prefer these rims, but I have negative experience with this company when they delivered a frame which was much heavier than specified. I never got a straight response from them (Peter, who is active in this forum) when I complained and claimed a return of the frame.
    3. The third alternative is to buy from Carbon Bicycle. Their rims seams to be more or less identical to the LB rims and have a good price. However, I have seen no reports on the quality of these rims.
    4. The last option is to buy from Carbonal. Their rim geometry is seems to be the same at LB and Carbon Bicycle, but the rims are much heavier, 460 g, which is 100 g more than their 27 mm rim and only 10 g lighter than their 35 mm rim. Is this really correct?

    Any advice?
    Last edited by ErikGBL; 09-08-2014 at 05:03 AM. Reason: Forgot Carbonal

  4. #6304
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    Buy rims from Iplay in 3k matt outlook and 27 mm width , for my xc racing Chinandale
    Looks nice and actual weight is lower than advertised
    To be build next week
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-image.jpg  


  5. #6305
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Wheels or rims? Big difference. I don't think the general consensus is to go with their wheels. So far what I've seen people posting would tend to indicate LB doesn't how to build a wheel properly.
    I have purchased a set of wheels from LB. I took it to my LBS to have them do a once over before riding on them. They were very impressed with the build and quality of the wheel set. I may be one of the lucky ones, but others on here that have bought wheel set are more than satisfied with their purchase.
    "By Your Command"

  6. #6306
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    I've had my wheels built by LB and have been riding them for almost two months now with no problems whatsoever. And they've stayed trued since the day I got them.

  7. #6307
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Wheels or rims? Big difference. I don't think the general consensus is to go with their wheels. So far what I've seen people posting would tend to indicate LB doesn't how to build a wheel properly.
    I have had a LB wheelset for 3 months now and can't be happier. 30mm with hope hubs.

  8. #6308
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    Looking at a set of 30mm internal 32h rims from either carbonality or xmiplay. Had been planning on using Bontrager Rhythm strips but being ignorant of how they worked didn't realise that they won't actually do the job in the wider rim. Is the only option using tape? I really liked the idea of the strips just working as this will be my first tubeless setup, probably with Ardent race or Ikon tyres or Racing Ralphs. Main use will be 24 hour cross country racing in the UK.

  9. #6309
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    Tape > Rim Strips in my experience.
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  10. #6310
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    Definitely try tape first. Schwalbes usually fit quite tight. Maybe even too tight for strips on those rims

  11. #6311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Ede View Post
    Looking at a set of 30mm internal 32h rims from either carbonality or xmiplay. Had been planning on using Bontrager Rhythm strips but being ignorant of how they worked didn't realise that they won't actually do the job in the wider rim. Is the only option using tape? I really liked the idea of the strips just working as this will be my first tubeless setup, probably with Ardent race or Ikon tyres or Racing Ralphs. Main use will be 24 hour cross country racing in the UK.
    I have both the 35 and the 30mm 'external' width hookless from LB. The 35 set in 650b on a Bronson and the 30 set on my 29er Tallboy. I debated on whether to put 35s on the tallboy and I am glad that I didn't. The 35s are really big and way more than you need for XC racing on a 29er. LB also do a 27mm width hookless rim which I contemplated but I decided to go middle of the road with the 30s.

    I built both sets up with DT Swiss 350 hubs and DT revo spokes. I ran the 29er with 2.25 Racing Ralphs and did the Single Track 6 6day stage race in BC, several other day races and lots of general riding here in Whistler.

    I worried about the hookless concept but its been perfect and I think it makes for a stronger rim bead. Even with the lower priced performance series Racing Ralphs and Nobby Nics no burps or other issues at low pressures. Neither tire is rated 'tubeless ready' on the Schwalbe website.

    I have used gorilla tape the last couple years and it functions great but it leaves a lot of residue so I switched to the Scotch 8898 that people claim is a good Stan's alternative. Its okay, leaves no residue but its not as easy to apply as Stans tape. I mix my own sealant and I cut my valve stems out of old tubes. Despite a ghetto setup and non tubeless ready tires the wheels have been stellar. So I wouldn't worry about not being able to run the strips. Tape works great.

  12. #6312
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikGBL View Post
    I have built four 29er wheels with the LB 30 mm "wide" rims with rim hooks and I have good experience with LB and the wheels I have built have served my terrific on my FS and HT for two years now.
    I will now build two new 29er wheels with 30 mm hookless rims and I updated myself by reading the last months of this thread before buying (I followed it the first years). There seems to be three options:
    1. Buy from LB, but these rims are not listed on their web-site! No prices, no weights, no dimensions. A total secret product and if you want any information you have to e-mail them. Funny. Still it seems to be the preferred vendor on this forum! The rims appear to have 24 mm inner width according to e-mail published on this forum.
    2. Buy from Xiamen Iplay. These rims are different and have an inner width of 26 mm and a weight of 410 g. Larger inner width is a good thing from a tire geometry perspective, but it may make the rim sidewalls weaker (?) I would prefer these rims, but I have negative experience with this company when they delivered a frame which was much heavier than specified. I never got a straight response from them (Peter, who is active in this forum) when I complained and claimed a return of the frame.
    3. The third alternative is to buy from Carbon Bicycle. Their rims seams to be more or less identical to the LB rims and have a good price. However, I have seen no reports on the quality of these rims.
    4. The last option is to buy from Carbonal. Their rim geometry is seems to be the same at LB and Carbon Bicycle, but the rims are much heavier, 460 g, which is 100 g more than their 27 mm rim and only 10 g lighter than their 35 mm rim. Is this really correct?

    Any advice?
    LB does not spend enough time updating and improving their website. Its very confusing. They should take a lesson from Nextie. I bought the LB 29er 30mm hookless rims a few months ago after I had bought a set of their 650b 35mm hookless rims. I had to ask about the 30mm ones as they were at that time a new product and I saw them mentioned in a forum. I still don't see them listed on their website but they are mentioned in the customer questions sections.

    The 30mm wide ones have been great. I think a nice balance between width and weight for XC and all mountain. The 30 according to the diagram they sent me has inner width of 24mm making for 3mm wide rim bead which is actually thicker by .5mm than on the 650b 35mm wide rims from them. You would think the thicker bead would be on the wider heavier rim anticipating more abuse? I would buy either LB set again. I might also consider the Nextie rims based on comments in other forums.

  13. #6313
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    Okay, will try tape. I assume pretty much any self adhesive tape with low gas permeability would do?

    Last question, who sells the widest chinese 29er carbon rims? 30mm internal seems the widest but would be interested in 35 / 40mm if someone is making them. Many thanks.

  14. #6314
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-photo-22-.jpg

    Well the 35mm rims laced up well enough to my I9 Spokes and hubs. There is a few millimeters of thread left on either side where the spokes thread into the hub. They are certainly fine now and I think there is enough room for re-tensioning down the road. The posted ERD numbers were like 7mm different between these so I'm guessing that carbonbicycle.cc was a bit off on their erd numbers. Had a very experienced builder do the re-lacing.

    With the thick I-9 spokes these things look burly as hell. With the used I-9 wheelset and the new carbon rims I'm in this set for about $1k with two nice backup rims to boot.

  15. #6315
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well the 35mm rims laced up well enough to my I9 Spokes and hubs.
    Which I9s did you start with? Trail or Enduro?

  16. #6316
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    Enduro's

  17. #6317
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    Can anyone confirm is the claimed ERD 603 correct for RM29C02 rims?

    (RM29C02 is the product number for both hooked and hookless 30mm outer width rims.)
    Last edited by plussa; 09-10-2014 at 12:13 AM.

  18. #6318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Ede View Post
    Last question, who sells the widest chinese 29er carbon rims? 30mm internal seems the widest but would be interested in 35 / 40mm if someone is making them. Many thanks.
    I believe the only 40mm wide carbon rims right now are from Ibis, but only sold as a complete wheelset currently.

    Probably not what you're looking for, but Nextie is now making a 50mm wide 29+ carbon rim, the 'Jungle Fox'. Mine are being built up right now to go on a 29+ Carver Gnarvester.

  19. #6319
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I believe the only 40mm wide carbon rims right now are from Ibis, but only sold as a complete wheelset currently.

    Probably not what you're looking for, but Nextie is now making a 50mm wide 29+ carbon rim, the 'Jungle Fox'. Mine are being built up right now to go on a 29+ Carver Gnarvester.
    The 41mm Ibis 941 is not yet available.

  20. #6320
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    Just recently took delivery of a set of LB 26" 33mm wide hookless rims. So far I am questioning my purchase:

    2 rides, 2 JRA "fatal" rear pinch flats. The first on a WTB wierwolf which sealed up with stans at a very low psi and I was able to limp gingerly home. Today a Conti Mtn King, an hour and a half from home 100 yds into the descent and had to walk (turns out std tube valve stems are not long enough to work with the deep dish LB rims). But seriously, while I was going downhill I didn't hit anything hard. And I was running at 30psi.

    I'm hoping the collective wisdom of MTBR can help me out, since I used you all to feel confident in the purchase...

    Here are my other observations:
    The WTB tires were almost impossible to mount. And while they sealed right up with a pump, they were very difficult to get the bead to slide up onto the rim shoulder and seat against the rim wall. Requiring several inflate/deflate cycles, lotsa soap and lots of working on it. This is with 1 wrap of gorilla tape. And as soon as you deflate, they pop off the seat.

    The conti fully seated at 65 psi, but required a compressor to do so.

    You need to buy the longer "road" tubeless valve stems and then make sure your "backup" tubes are long valved as well.

  21. #6321
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    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    Just recently took delivery of a set of LB 26" 33mm wide hookless rims. So far I am questioning my purchase:

    2 rides, 2 JRA "fatal" rear pinch flats. The first on a WTB wierwolf which sealed up with stans at a very low psi and I was able to limp gingerly home. Today a Conti Mtn King, an hour and a half from home 100 yds into the descent and had to walk (turns out std tube valve stems are not long enough to work with the deep dish LB rims). But seriously, while I was going downhill I didn't hit anything hard. And I was running at 30psi.

    I'm hoping the collective wisdom of MTBR can help me out, since I used you all to feel confident in the purchase...

    Here are my other observations:
    The WTB tires were almost impossible to mount. And while they sealed right up with a pump, they were very difficult to get the bead to slide up onto the rim shoulder and seat against the rim wall. Requiring several inflate/deflate cycles, lotsa soap and lots of working on it. This is with 1 wrap of gorilla tape. And as soon as you deflate, they pop off the seat.

    The conti fully seated at 65 psi, but required a compressor to do so.

    You need to buy the longer "road" tubeless valve stems and then make sure your "backup" tubes are long valved as well.
    My two cents, if the tires are hard to mount tubeless on that wheel set, they are the wrong tires. I have had great luck with Maxxis, Specialized, and Schwalbe tubeless ready tires on my LB wheels, which includes a set of 29er 23mm internal and the new wider version in 27.5". Like mount with a floor pump and hold air without sealant.

  22. #6322
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    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    Just recently took delivery of a set of LB 26" 33mm wide hookless rims. So far I am questioning my purchase:

    2 rides, 2 JRA "fatal" rear pinch flats. The first on a WTB wierwolf which sealed up with stans at a very low psi and I was able to limp gingerly home. Today a Conti Mtn King.....
    Isn't a pinch flat when a tire pinches a tube and tears it open? Since your tires are tubeless, this should be impossible. Do you mean your tires burped?
    My Maxxis Icons have been great with no problems so far at about 200mi. They are tubeless and I keep them at about 20 psi. They are 2.35 wide and I have the 30mm inner width rims.

  23. #6323
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    Quote Originally Posted by dugt View Post
    Isn't a pinch flat when a tire pinches a tube and tears it open? Since your tires are tubeless, this should be impossible. Do you mean your tires burped?
    My Maxxis Icons have been great with no problems so far at about 200mi. They are tubeless and I keep them at about 20 psi. They are 2.35 wide and I have the 30mm inner width rims.
    You can get pinch flats on tires too, albeit less common.
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  24. #6324
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    yes. To me a pinchflat and snakebite are the same thing and now happened to 2 new tubeless tires, being run tubeless with stans on the first 2 rides with the new wheels. I have a small chip in the rim (2 now actually), a small hole at the rim, and a small hole in the tread. Is that not a pinch flat? I was running 30 psi, ~160 lbs on a 6" travel bike and I didn't feel like I hit anything hard in both cases. Anytime I pinch with tubes, I almost always know it because I FEEL it.

    So I am currently discouraged and frustrated for my first "big" purchase since my dream bike 10 years ago. Also found out that standard tube valve stems aren't long enough for these rims and had a really long hike out...

    Quote Originally Posted by dugt View Post
    Isn't a pinch flat when a tire pinches a tube and tears it open? Since your tires are tubeless, this should be impossible. Do you mean your tires burped?
    My Maxxis Icons have been great with no problems so far at about 200mi. They are tubeless and I keep them at about 20 psi. They are 2.35 wide and I have the 30mm inner width rims.

  25. #6325
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    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    yes. To me a pinchflat and snakebite are the same thing and now happened to 2 new tubeless tires, being run tubeless with stans on the first 2 rides with the new wheels. I have a small chip in the rim (2 now actually), a small hole at the rim, and a small hole in the tread. Is that not a pinch flat? I was running 30 psi, ~160 lbs on a 6" travel bike and I didn't feel like I hit anything hard in both cases. Anytime I pinch with tubes, I almost always know it because I FEEL it.

    So I am currently discouraged and frustrated for my first "big" purchase since my dream bike 10 years ago. Also found out that standard tube valve stems aren't long enough for these rims and had a really long hike out...
    almost all carbon rims require longer valves, and ive seen this discussed not only in this thread, but numerous other threads throughout the site. That, is completely your fault.

    30 psi seems high to still get pinch flats, how much do you weigh? and you said you were riding downhill, but were you riding a typical downhill type course? what size width tire are you using? are you using a protection type version with heavier sidewalls?
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  26. #6326
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    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    yes. To me a pinchflat and snakebite are the same thing and now happened to 2 new tubeless tires, being run tubeless with stans on the first 2 rides with the new wheels. I have a small chip in the rim (2 now actually), a small hole at the rim, and a small hole in the tread. Is that not a pinch flat? I was running 30 psi, ~160 lbs on a 6" travel bike and I didn't feel like I hit anything hard in both cases. Anytime I pinch with tubes, I almost always know it because I FEEL it.

    So I am currently discouraged and frustrated for my first "big" purchase since my dream bike 10 years ago. Also found out that standard tube valve stems aren't long enough for these rims and had a really long hike out...
    I don't see how it could be a rims fault if you pinch the tires so hard that they break.

  27. #6327
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    If you pinch it is never the rims fault since any rim would pinch if your tire gets pinched against it. I think you are burping first and losing pressure. Then you get a hit and pinch flat. You even described the fact that your tires are easy to move away from the bead.
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  28. #6328
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    yeah. I apparently missed the details about longer valve stems. 160ish and by downhill, I mean I was going down a typical rocky AM/enduro style trail. I would call it typical front range Denver type trail, though I am on the central coast of CA. By no means a DH course. 2.3 width tires. the WTBs are pretty thick sidewalls, but the contis are definitely lighter and thinner. Either way with the nick in the carbon rim, I made rim/rock contact, which I agree seems hard to believe at 30 psi considering I never felt it. Maybe my gauge is off by 5psi.... I currently have both tires patched with a tube pressed in at 50 psi, hoping to ensure the patches stick... Will take the tube out before riding and re-inflate 5psi higher.

  29. #6329
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    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    Just recently took delivery of a set of LB 26" 33mm wide hookless rims. So far I am questioning my purchase:

    2 rides, 2 JRA "fatal" rear pinch flats. The first on a WTB wierwolf which sealed up with stans at a very low psi and I was able to limp gingerly home. Today a Conti Mtn King, an hour and a half from home 100 yds into the descent and had to walk (turns out std tube valve stems are not long enough to work with the deep dish LB rims). But seriously, while I was going downhill I didn't hit anything hard. And I was running at 30psi.

    I'm hoping the collective wisdom of MTBR can help me out, since I used you all to feel confident in the purchase...

    Here are my other observations:
    The WTB tires were almost impossible to mount. And while they sealed right up with a pump, they were very difficult to get the bead to slide up onto the rim shoulder and seat against the rim wall. Requiring several inflate/deflate cycles, lotsa soap and lots of working on it. This is with 1 wrap of gorilla tape. And as soon as you deflate, they pop off the seat.

    The conti fully seated at 65 psi, but required a compressor to do so.

    You need to buy the longer "road" tubeless valve stems and then make sure your "backup" tubes are long valved as well.
    Agree with others here - hard to point this to a rim issue.

    I have purchased two sets of 29 hookless rims from LB (one for XC and one for Trail) and they have been flawless with tubeless setup. I use Schwalbe (Evo, Pacestar, snakeskin, etc.) here in SoCal. I run 25 front, 30 back, and weight 225 kitted. Wheels are on Pivot Mach 429 Carbon.

  30. #6330
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    I wouldnt discount the role of the rim quite yet...

    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    yeah. I apparently missed the details about longer valve stems. 160ish and by downhill, I mean I was going down a typical rocky AM/enduro style trail. I would call it typical front range Denver type trail, though I am on the central coast of CA. By no means a DH course. 2.3 width tires. the WTBs are pretty thick sidewalls, but the contis are definitely lighter and thinner. Either way with the nick in the carbon rim, I made rim/rock contact, which I agree seems hard to believe at 30 psi considering I never felt it. Maybe my gauge is off by 5psi.... I currently have both tires patched with a tube pressed in at 50 psi, hoping to ensure the patches stick... Will take the tube out before riding and re-inflate 5psi higher.
    @laksboy, while there are clearly a lot of people running LB hookless with no pinching problems at all, I wouldn't discount the role of the rims entirely, as some have suggested.

    I have pinch flatted tire casings before, both tubeless and when running tubes. There have been particular rims which were definitely worse in this regard than others, but the factors are complex.

    First of all, there is the shape of the outer edge of the rim. Some are rounded off, and some are squareish. In a direct frontal hit, square will distribute the force over more of the tire, which may be superior. However, in an edge hit, where the object you are striking is angled relative to the tire, a squared outer edge of the rim can be worse as you have a relatively sharp edge pinching the tire casing against the rock or whatever hard object you are striking.

    Secondly, there is the inner height of the sidewalls of the rim, which determines how much tire sits "above" the rim, and how much sits inside. Most of the hookless rims seems to be slightly higher in this regard (like 1mm to 1.5mm) than typical, I assume to give a bit larger margin for error in preventing blow offs. In addition, some rims (like Stans) have lower than normal sidewall heights, which if you look on the Stan's website is a feature that they tout as giving you more tire casing between you and the ground for better cushion. If you switched from one of the shortest sidewall rims to one of the highest, you may have lost something like 3mm of tire "travel" before tire bottoming.

    Thirdly, there is the question of rim sidewall stiffness. This is probably minor, but everyone talks about how "precise" carbon wheels are from a handling perspective. If the sidewalls are stiffer and therefore flex less when taking a hit, they will absorb less and that difference will go into the tire. I have had crap metal rims that seemed like they would dent without pinch flatting, whereas a high end harder alloy rim would have shrugged off the hit but pinched the tube.

    And last, the width of the rim is a factor. In the last round of "wider rims are better", about 15yrs ago, I had some 45mm width rims that were the worst I had ever tried from a pinching the tire perspective. I had a second wheelset with approx 30mm rims and the same tires. I would swap back and forth on the same courses and there was a huge difference between the number of pinches. Some of the above factors may have played in as well, but I think that under certain circumstances, particularly at high lean angles on bumpy terrain, wider rims ride closer to the ground and are more likely to pinch the casing as a result.

    As far as practical advice goes, there isn't much you can do about it, other than get some tires with beefier reinforced sidewalls to compensate, although that can get expensive if you have to use trial and error to figure out which ones hold up.

    I hope that helps explain the possible influences...now tell us about your previous setup, rims, tires (with sidewall type if there were multiple options), pressures, etc...

  31. #6331
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheKaiser View Post
    @laksboy, while there are clearly a lot of people running LB hookless with no pinching problems at all, I wouldn't discount the role of the rims entirely, as some have suggested.

    I have pinch flatted tire casings before, both tubeless and when running tubes. There have been particular rims which were definitely worse in this regard than others, but the factors are complex.

    First of all, there is the shape of the outer edge of the rim. Some are rounded off, and some are squareish. In a direct frontal hit, square will distribute the force over more of the tire, which may be superior. However, in an edge hit, where the object you are striking is angled relative to the tire, a squared outer edge of the rim can be worse as you have a relatively sharp edge pinching the tire casing against the rock or whatever hard object you are striking.

    Secondly, there is the inner height of the sidewalls of the rim, which determines how much tire sits "above" the rim, and how much sits inside. Most of the hookless rims seems to be slightly higher in this regard (like 1mm to 1.5mm) than typical, I assume to give a bit larger margin for error in preventing blow offs. In addition, some rims (like Stans) have lower than normal sidewall heights, which if you look on the Stan's website is a feature that they tout as giving you more tire casing between you and the ground for better cushion. If you switched from one of the shortest sidewall rims to one of the highest, you may have lost something like 3mm of tire "travel" before tire bottoming.

    Thirdly, there is the question of rim sidewall stiffness. This is probably minor, but everyone talks about how "precise" carbon wheels are from a handling perspective. If the sidewalls are stiffer and therefore flex less when taking a hit, they will absorb less and that difference will go into the tire. I have had crap metal rims that seemed like they would dent without pinch flatting, whereas a high end harder alloy rim would have shrugged off the hit but pinched the tube.

    And last, the width of the rim is a factor. In the last round of "wider rims are better", about 15yrs ago, I had some 45mm width rims that were the worst I had ever tried from a pinching the tire perspective. I had a second wheelset with approx 30mm rims and the same tires. I would swap back and forth on the same courses and there was a huge difference between the number of pinches. Some of the above factors may have played in as well, but I think that under certain circumstances, particularly at high lean angles on bumpy terrain, wider rims ride closer to the ground and are more likely to pinch the casing as a result.

    As far as practical advice goes, there isn't much you can do about it, other than get some tires with beefier reinforced sidewalls to compensate, although that can get expensive if you have to use trial and error to figure out which ones hold up.

    I hope that helps.
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  32. #6332
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    Quote Originally Posted by vice grips View Post
    Wow, nice post
    Thanks Vice Grips!

  33. #6333
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    Vice Grips makes some great points. Additionally, maybe hookless in general is a bit more susceptible to harming beads? I am sticking with hooked aluminum rims until you guys sort all of this out. However, I am sure tire manufactures are going to address the wide rim craze. Good for us. I look forward to everyone's experiences, and these threads about new style of rims are great. I'm so dinosaur.

  34. #6334
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    Rims only
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  35. #6335
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    Oops, Sorry, I meant The Kaiser. Good points.

  36. #6336
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    Quote Originally Posted by plussa View Post
    Can anyone confirm is the claimed ERD 603 correct for RM29C02 rims?
    I just received the rims and measured the ERD myself. Yes, ERD 603 is indeed correct. Weights are 393 and 397 grams. (390g+/-10g promised)

  37. #6337
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhelander View Post
    Rims are here and look good. Unfortunately spokes didn't make in office hours so building wheels later.


    Finally shipping with spokes and discs arrived. Wheels are built and are very straight and keep Thunder Burt tires exceptionally well seated. Tires are on spec or little wider when measured from casing. Both good, likely newer burping even when compared to WTB LaserDisc rims.



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  38. #6338
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    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    Just recently took delivery of a set of LB 26" 33mm wide hookless rims. So far I am questioning my purchase:

    2 rides, 2 JRA "fatal" rear pinch flats. The first on a WTB wierwolf which sealed up with stans at a very low psi and I was able to limp gingerly home. Today a Conti Mtn King, an hour and a half from home 100 yds into the descent and had to walk (turns out std tube valve stems are not long enough to work with the deep dish LB rims). But seriously, while I was going downhill I didn't hit anything hard. And I was running at 30psi.

    I'm hoping the collective wisdom of MTBR can help me out, since I used you all to feel confident in the purchase...

    Here are my other observations:
    The WTB tires were almost impossible to mount. And while they sealed right up with a pump, they were very difficult to get the bead to slide up onto the rim shoulder and seat against the rim wall. Requiring several inflate/deflate cycles, lotsa soap and lots of working on it. This is with 1 wrap of gorilla tape. And as soon as you deflate, they pop off the seat.

    The conti fully seated at 65 psi, but required a compressor to do so.

    You need to buy the longer "road" tubeless valve stems and then make sure your "backup" tubes are long valved as well.
    30 psi is the most air pressure that I run in my tires in the rear. usually 20f/28r. Run 2.35 nobby nics on 35mm LB. If I hit something with 30psi that hard to pinch flat a tubeless tire then I am going to feel it. My suspicion is you lost air somehow and then pinched it. So either it burped or got holed first and then got pinched.

    When you were mounting the Weirwolfs why did you inflate and then deflate them again?

    My thoughts on mounting tires.
    I have stopped using soap to help mount or seat tires. It makes me wonder if the soap residue in between tire bead and rim could come back to be an issue. Can something that makes it easier to put the tire on make it easier for the tire to burp? Yes it is sometimes a little more difficult to mount without soap but it can be done.

    I try to inflate the tire with no sealant first with a floor pump. If that fails then I go to a compressor. If the compressor is a struggle then I just put in a tube and let it sit inflated for a bit to shape the sidewall. Then usually it inflates much easier. Remove the core or pop one bead to put in the sealant.

  39. #6339
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    Has anyone tried or buy these ones:

    29er Clincher MTB Carbon Rim 29inch Carbon Fiber Mountain Bicycle Rim | eBay

    instead of the LB ones?
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  40. #6340
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    Side note The web master or the forum admins need to fix these humongous tread since its so painful to try and navigate through it as the apache server keeps failing reloading the page or the script keeps crashing my browsers.

    Thank you in advance.
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  41. #6341
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    Use an android app Tapatalk on a tablet insead of a regar web browser to navigate the forums and it helps a lot.

  42. #6342
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    Would like to ask anyone try out xiamen yoeleo AM rims? Friend of mine owned a 29er frame from them with full satisfaction.
    May someone use the rims can tell how the rims performance?
    Thanks in advance.
    26 Bike Rims - Buy Carbon 26er Bike Rims With 30mm Width Yoeleo

  43. #6343
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Trail_Blazer View Post
    Use an android app Tapatalk on a tablet insead of a regar web browser to navigate the forums and it helps a lot.
    Thank you it seems to work a lot better using tapatalk
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  44. #6344
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbet View Post
    Would like to ask anyone try out xiamen yoeleo AM rims? Friend of mine owned a 29er frame from them with full satisfaction.
    May someone use the rims can tell how the rims performance?
    Thanks in advance.
    26 Bike Rims - Buy Carbon 26er Bike Rims With 30mm Width Yoeleo

    the description looks like it was stolen from LB (then run through a manglish filter). Yoeleo also has a "new process"?
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  45. #6345
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    I find it hard to believe that I could burp a 2.3 tire on a 33mm rim at 30 psi, especially with the insanely tight fitting tires. I'm no DH course riding hard charging ripper, just a normal 160 lb guy who likes to ride all-mtn type terrain somewhat fast. I also find it hard to believe that I could pinch flat twice in 2 rides on new tires and not feel it. Still a mystery. Only other theory is that my tire pressure gauge is way off, but I've been riding 20 years and the tires certainly feel hard enough... I'll be giving it a go again tomorrow on a patched tire at 35 psi in the rear... We'll see.

    To answer your question about the inflate/deflate cycle. The bead would not fully seat at 60 psi. It was sealed but not snapped into place. I had to work it back and forth at lower psi to get it to finally slide up onto the rim shoulder. I also ended up using straight dish soap as lube and it fully seated at a much lower psi. Also of note is that when fully deflated or at very low psi, the bead on the WTB tire slides down off the rim bed. It stays sealed due to the tight fit, but does not stay seated.

    Anyways thanks all for the help. Hopefully I've just had really bad luck and if I can stay pinchflat free at 35 psi and gain confidence, I can start reducing back down to 30 or less.

  46. #6346
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    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    I find it hard to believe that I could burp a 2.3 tire on a 33mm rim at 30 psi, especially with the insanely tight fitting tires. I'm no DH course riding hard charging ripper, just a normal 160 lb guy who likes to ride all-mtn type terrain somewhat fast. I also find it hard to believe that I could pinch flat twice in 2 rides on new tires and not feel it. Still a mystery. Only other theory is that my tire pressure gauge is way off, but I've been riding 20 years and the tires certainly feel hard enough... I'll be giving it a go again tomorrow on a patched tire at 35 psi in the rear... We'll see.

    To answer your question about the inflate/deflate cycle. The bead would not fully seat at 60 psi. It was sealed but not snapped into place. I had to work it back and forth at lower psi to get it to finally slide up onto the rim shoulder. I also ended up using straight dish soap as lube and it fully seated at a much lower psi. Also of note is that when fully deflated or at very low psi, the bead on the WTB tire slides down off the rim bed. It stays sealed due to the tight fit, but does not stay seated.

    Anyways thanks all for the help. Hopefully I've just had really bad luck and if I can stay pinchflat free at 35 psi and gain confidence, I can start reducing back down to 30 or less.
    Just to reiterate, if your bead isn't seating on these rims with 60 psi of pressure, then the tires are really not suitable. A tubeless ready tire from Maxxis or Schwalbe will inflate incredibly easy on them, in my experience.

  47. #6347
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    Quote Originally Posted by laksboy View Post
    I find it hard to believe that I could burp a 2.3 tire on a 33mm rim at 30 psi, especially with the insanely tight fitting tires. I'm no DH course riding hard charging ripper, just a normal 160 lb guy who likes to ride all-mtn type terrain somewhat fast. I also find it hard to believe that I could pinch flat twice in 2 rides on new tires and not feel it. Still a mystery. Only other theory is that my tire pressure gauge is way off, but I've been riding 20 years and the tires certainly feel hard enough... I'll be giving it a go again tomorrow on a patched tire at 35 psi in the rear... We'll see.

    To answer your question about the inflate/deflate cycle. The bead would not fully seat at 60 psi. It was sealed but not snapped into place. I had to work it back and forth at lower psi to get it to finally slide up onto the rim shoulder. I also ended up using straight dish soap as lube and it fully seated at a much lower psi. Also of note is that when fully deflated or at very low psi, the bead on the WTB tire slides down off the rim bed. It stays sealed due to the tight fit, but does not stay seated.

    Anyways thanks all for the help. Hopefully I've just had really bad luck and if I can stay pinchflat free at 35 psi and gain confidence, I can start reducing back down to 30 or less.
    You can't trust tires that don't fit right.

  48. #6348
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    Iplay newest and special design hookless rims IP-HR925C

    Iplay newest and special design hookless rims IP-HR925C, as you could see from below geometry.

    OD: 26mm
    ID: 22mm

    Weight: 420+/- 15g/piece

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520
    Name:  IP-HR925C.jpg
Views: 1441
Size:  15.8 KB(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_7651.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_7653.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_7659.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_7636.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_7643.jpg
    Last edited by PeterQ520; 09-25-2014 at 01:46 AM.

  49. #6349
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    ..?????

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterQ520 View Post
    Iplay newest and special design hookless rims IP-HR925C, as you could see from below geometry.

    Weight: 420+/- 15g/piece

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520
    Name:  IP-HR925C.jpg
Views: 1441
Size:  15.8 KBClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	926426Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	926428Click image for larger version. 

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    ....???????
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  50. #6350
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    Peter- are you guys ever going to come up with something original, or is coping the best you can do?


    FYI, you list a 26mm OD but your picture shows a 30mm.
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  51. #6351
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Peter- are you guys ever going to come up with something original, or is coping the best you can do?


    FYI, you list a 26mm OD but your picture shows a 30mm.
    I think it's 26mm at the top where the tire mounts, but 30mm at the widest point. Seems like a pointless design to me, I would rather have the widest section where the tire mounts.

  52. #6352
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    This is a stupid design. The wide part of the rims would tend to sustain more damage. But the bead seat is narrow.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  53. #6353
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    This wss his reply to my inquires;
    "Hi There,

    Thanks for your inquiry!

    Yes, IP-HR925C rims are 29er rims. OD is 25.92mm, ID is 22mm

    That means internal width is 22mm

    The best price for IP-HR925C rims is 165 USD/piece, shipping by EMS for one pair will cost 50 USD, and 4% commission to PayPal will be charged

    Please see the attached geometry and pictures

    Best Regards,
    Peter"
    So basically they are an exact copy or same as these ones,

    http://www.light-bicycle.com/bead-ho...ompatible.html

    The only difference is that LB already have a reputation in the MTBR community and appears to be the preferred vendor.

    So I don't see how these guys will ever take a share of the market,
    .....?????

    I did offer them to be the guinea pig to test and promote their product but they where not interested.
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  54. #6354
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camaleon View Post
    So basically they are an exact copy or same as these ones,

    bead hook-less rims carbon 29er light bike rim tubeless compatible Light-Bicycle

    The only difference is that LB already have a reputation in the MTBR community and appears to be the preferred vendor.

    So I don't see how these guys will ever take a share of the market,
    .....?????

    I did offer them to be the guinea pig to test and promote their product but they where not interested.
    In all fairness they are not the same profile as the LB rims. I think Peter is showing the other rim just for comparison. They might be near the same OD and ID dimension but they are not the same shape. Maybe its a stronger design being more rounded. I guess we will wait and see. I'm not wild about the round shape and I would buy my rims from LB again.

  55. #6355
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I think it's 26mm at the top where the tire mounts, but 30mm at the widest point. Seems like a pointless design to me, I would rather have the widest section where the tire mounts.
    But wait, I keep reading how there's no difference buying from these Chinese copiers and compaines that actual do R&D and know what the hell their doing. I mean, come on these are the same guys making the Rovals. They have to know how to engineer a rim.

    yes, this is sarcasm.
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  56. #6356
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    Wtf is with the PayPal fee? It's not like they take any other forms of payment. Build it into your price you freaking halfwits.

  57. #6357
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    I thought PayPal is 3%?

  58. #6358
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonggi View Post
    I thought PayPal is 3%?
    Light Bicycle does the same 4%. Paypal's standard fee is $.30 + 2.99%. There's an even lower fee for merchant accounts. LB is rounding it up as high as they can in good conscience to be sure never to lose a penny on paypal fees while scraping in a few extra bucks at the same time. The shipping is what really hurts. $50 for two rims. Makes it really hard to not settle for a pair of WTB i25 ($136 per pair) or Flows, Oozys, Blunts $200 per pair, no tax, no shipping, no paypal fee, no credit card fee.

    lest you think I'm just anti-LB or anti-carbon, I own a set and am considering my second. I like the rims, but the economics is tough to swallow.

  59. #6359
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    I know LB does the same. It's just as stupid. Build it into your price like every other merchant on the planet or at least offer some other forms of payment.

  60. #6360
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by RTM View Post
    Light Bicycle does the same 4%. Paypal's standard fee is $.30 + 2.99%. There's an even lower fee for merchant accounts. LB is rounding it up as high as they can in good conscience to be sure never to lose a penny on paypal fees while scraping in a few extra bucks at the same time. The shipping is what really hurts. $50 for two rims. Makes it really hard to not settle for a pair of WTB i25 ($136 per pair) or Flows, Oozys, Blunts $200 per pair, no tax, no shipping, no paypal fee, no credit card fee.

    lest you think I'm just anti-LB or anti-carbon, I own a set and am considering my second. I like the rims, but the economics is tough to swallow.
    I'm debating going lb wheels for my road bike. All mountain stumpy(2 sets trail and am) and 33 or wider dh rims for my dh rig. I hope to buy all at once and maybe save on shipping but the doubt in my mind is slowly disappearing since so many people have had great experience

  61. #6361
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    Do any of these companies make a hookless rim with UST-like ribbing/ridges to lock the bead in place?

    A la American Classic 101?

    Looking for a 30-35mm rim for my new Santa Cruz Tallboy LTC.
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  62. #6362
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    Cracked LB Rim

    I bought this wheelset back in January of this year, had a warranty claim back in April due to nipple bulge....

    I noticed some sealant splatters on the rear tire after the last ride, took it home, cleaned the bike up and to my horror.... I found a crack on the rear rim. I don't recall hitting anything harder than the usual stuff....

    Running tubeless with 28psi rear...

    The wheel still holds air, but I'm not riding it....

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-crack-1.jpeg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-crack-2.jpeg

  63. #6363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Do any of these companies make a hookless rim with UST-like ribbing/ridges to lock the bead in place?

    A la American Classic 101?

    Looking for a 30-35mm rim for my new Santa Cruz Tallboy LTC.
    Look at the Derby's.
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  64. #6364
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    Quote Originally Posted by moonluv810 View Post
    I bought this wheelset back in January of this year, had a warranty claim back in April due to nipple bulge....

    I noticed some sealant splatters on the rear tire after the last ride, took it home, cleaned the bike up and to my horror.... I found a crack on the rear rim. I don't recall hitting anything harder than the usual stuff....

    Running tubeless with 28psi rear...

    The wheel still holds air, but I'm not riding it....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    With those vertical marks on the side wall, you've probably just clipped a rock...unfortunate but it happens.

  65. #6365
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    I have similar damage on one of my rims, maybe not quite as bad. I put some thin super glue in it, clamped it together and I'm still riding it.

  66. #6366
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    28h?

    I am planning to order a wheelset from Light-Bicycle:
    Hookless, 22mm ID with Novatec hubs.

    Would 28H be strong enough for an 85 kg XC rider? No rocks, no drops.
    How much weight will be saved compared to 32 H ?
    Or should I go for 28H in front and 32H in the rear?

  67. #6367
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    Actual carbon wheel weight.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_4273%5B1%5D.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_4281%5B1%5D.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_4282%5B1%5D.jpg

    I thought I'd give you and update on the actual weight of these rims.
    Ordered in August - got the wheels in September, fast-reliable shipping.

    27mm XC version light bicycle 29er wheel set with novatec hub 32H spoke front and back, 3K clear coating with matte. Total actual weight come out to ~1700gm. What do you think ? Has anyone get different number ?

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_4368%5B2%5D.jpg <--here is my complete build, project weight is around 25lbs

  68. #6368
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    So to answer your question, if you are concern about weight by going 28H spoke then ...the different should be significantly small than the weight different between advertise and actual weight of the wheel set. I'd say go for 32H.

  69. #6369
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    Anyone know what would be de difference between these two sellers (webpages). They seem to offer the exact same product but one is 20 dollars cheaper and more width options. Anyone purchased from carbonbicycle.cc?

    Wider carbon mountain 29er rims clincher(tubeless-compatible) Light-Bicycle

    wider carbon mountain 29er rims clincher(tubeless-compatible), outer width 30.00/27.40/24.13/35.00mm - carbon rim - Carbon Bicycle, Carbon Frame, Carbon Rims, Carbon Wheels, Carbon Wheelsets, Carbon Mountain Bike, Carbon Road Bike, Carbon Handlebar

    Cheers

  70. #6370
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    Finally got my new LB wheelset which took quite a while to sort out and build. 1177g with the hookless 27mm rims. I chuck up photos when I can work out how to do it (dosen't seem to work with the phone). Looking forward to giving em a test run before the next XC race.

  71. #6371
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenDragoon View Post
    Finally got my new LB wheelset which took quite a while to sort out and build. 1177g with the hookless 27mm rims. I chuck up photos when I can work out how to do it (dosen't seem to work with the phone). Looking forward to giving em a test run before the next XC race.
    Could you give us a spec rundown when you post the pics please ?

    This is the lightest 27mm hookless build I have seen.

    Thanks

    Fat Biker

  72. #6372
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    My "69er" wheelset which has 32h CarbonBicycle's 27/33mm 26" front, 30/35mm 29er rear rims, WTB LaserDisc QR hubs and DT-Swiss Revolution 2.0/1.5 spokes with 12mm brass nipples weights very near to calculated 1553 grams.

    Both wheels are awesome, front is good for AM and little heavier than rear. Hookless holds Thunder Burt tires so well that no worries to burp. Tires are way more controllable than with normal rims, just as expected. Very happy owner of this just shy 600 € set.

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    -Mika

  73. #6373
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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Anyone know what would be de difference between these two sellers (webpages). They seem to offer the exact same product but one is 20 dollars cheaper and more width options. Anyone purchased from carbonbicycle.cc?

    Wider carbon mountain 29er rims clincher(tubeless-compatible) Light-Bicycle

    wider carbon mountain 29er rims clincher(tubeless-compatible), outer width 30.00/27.40/24.13/35.00mm - carbon rim - Carbon Bicycle, Carbon Frame, Carbon Rims, Carbon Wheels, Carbon Wheelsets, Carbon Mountain Bike, Carbon Road Bike, Carbon Handlebar

    Cheers
    carbon bicycle site seems to be a copy of the LB site which there have been from time to time. for the price difference I would go with LB. LB's website is not as organized as it could be so ask Nancy what width and whether you want hookless or not. I have bought the 27.5 in 35mm width and the 29er in 30mm width. The hookless has been great. I was concerned about tire retention but its been a non issue.

  74. #6374
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    OK, first let me throw out my disclaimer before I ask my question--I'm not being lazy, but since I'm currently deployed at sea on a US Navy ship, between our crappy bandwidth and long work days, I honestly don't have time to sift through all 256 pages here, nor conduct a thorough thread search for the answer (Advanced Search function keeps erroring out on me). I do appreciate y'alls bearing with me on this, as I'm sure this topic/question has been addressed elsewhere on these forums, I just don't have the resources or time to find it.

    Anyways, my question: I'm looking at ordering LB rims for my C'dale Flash 2 29er. I'm going to order them now so I can have the wheels built as soon as I return from this endless deployment. My question is, for standard XC and trail riding on my C'dale hard tail, with occasional rooty tech stuff, would y'all recommend the RM29C02 (30mm outer, 23mm inner), the RM29C06 (27 outer, 22 inner), or RM29C07 (35mm outer, 30mm inner)? I do plan on going tubeless with this buildup.

    Thanks in advance!

  75. #6375
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    How much do you weigh? I would recommend the 23 internal if you weigh 175 or less and 30 internal if you weigh more. Also, to consider is the 23 internal will turn in faster while the wider rims will be more stable. So depending on your preferences there you might adjust up or down on my weight recommendations. One other consideration is how adverse are you to damage. The wider rims have less tire outside the bead area and are very slightly more prone to a rock strike. Don't get the narrowest size no matter what.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  76. #6376
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    yourdaguy, thanks for the response. I weight 175, and given what you mention about rock strikes, I'm leaning towards the 23mm internal rim.
    One question, though--there's only 1mm of difference between the narrow and middle-width rims. How much difference does 1mm make? Interesting that the big guy of the trio is a full 7mm bigger on the inner dimension. 1mm step up from narrow to medium, 7mm step up from medium to wide. Why?
    Thanks again for the advice.

  77. #6377
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    The cutoff has to be somewhere. The middle size is actually optimal for a range of sizes and 175 is what I think is about the cutoff where it is better to go bigger. The range of the smallest size is lower but much of it goes into a range that is so light they person would likely be on smaller wheels. Also, the resale is lower. Let's say the optimal range for the 23 internal size is 115 to 180. Let's say the narrower range is 90 to 150. See why I would totally stay away from the narrow ones. The 30 internal are probably best for 160 up. Since the sizes overlap if you are in the middle then other things like turn in and rock strikes and resale enter into the picture. And off of this is my opinion so when meltinfeather comes in and tells you I can't back up what I am saying he is correct, but he generally can't back up his stuff either.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  78. #6378
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    Mustanger,

    Thanks for your service to our country.

    There is another rim which you haven't mentioned: a 30mm outer, 24mm inner hookless version which is not shown on the LB website. That is the rim I would recommend to you.

    I'm not sure why LB doesn't list this model on the web -- I suspect that it was originally made for an OEM client and the contract prohibited them from doing so -- but they have been making it for months. Myself and many others on this thread have purchased them, and they are an excellent "middle" option between the lightest (27/22) and the widest (35/30).

    They are 2mm wider than the 27/22, and they have 20% thicker sidewalls (3mm vs 2.5mm) so should prove more resilient to rock strikes, etc.

    The older design for 30mm (the hooked 30/23 model) are inferior to the hookless 30/24 in my opinion. I've owned both. The 30/24 hookless have been easier for tubeless tire mounting.

    To order the 30/24 hookless, just send LB an email and ask them to send you an invoice. Then you can send a paypal payment citing the invoice.

    Good luck with the rest of the deployment, hope it passes quickly.

  79. #6379
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    yourdaguy, thanks again, much appreciated!
    InertiaMan, thanks for the kind words, and especially for the heads up on the "unpublished" rims. I think I'm sold on that one. I'll definitely be e-mailing LB soon!

    As for the deployment, it's been a long time at sea (7 months so far), and a couple more months to go, so I've been off the trails for WAY too long now. I've got my road bike set up on a trainer, so between that and other workout routines, I'm staying in shape, but I am having some wicked mtb withdrawals. I'm ordering the rims before I get home so I can get the wheels built as soon as I get back so I can get back in the saddle. (My current front rim is so out of whack that it's not even rideable anymore--had a bad spill a couple of months before deployment.)

    Related--would anyone be able to tell me what spoke length I'd need for building wheels with these LB rims and the stock Cannondale hubs? Yeah, I know I'll get recommendations to get new hubs, but the stock ones are fine for my use (for now), and new hubs just aren't in the budget at the moment.

    Thanks again, fellas, much appreciated!

  80. #6380
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    Quote Originally Posted by usn.mustanger View Post
    would anyone be able to tell me what spoke length I'd need for building wheels with these LB rims and the stock Cannondale hubs? Yeah, I know I'll get recommendations to get new hubs, but the stock ones are fine for my use (for now), and new hubs just aren't in the budget at the moment.
    You'll need to get the exact dimensions of the Cannondale hubs before you can determine spoke lengths. Getting dimensions for OEM hubs can sometimes be difficult, since they typically don't post that level of detail for the individual components. So you may need to physically measure them with a caliper.

    EDIT: btw, the flange diameter (measured at spoke hole center) is by far the dominant factor in the calculation. Flange spacing, on the other hand, barely influences the calculation due to the geometric orientation.

  81. #6381
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenDragoon View Post
    Finally got my new LB wheelset which took quite a while to sort out and build. 1177g with the hookless 27mm rims. I chuck up photos when I can work out how to do it (dosen't seem to work with the phone). Looking forward to giving em a test run before the next XC race.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    Could you give us a spec rundown when you post the pics please ?
    This is the lightest 27mm hookless build I have seen.
    Thanks
    Fat Biker
    I'd also like to see the spec. 1177g seems unlikely considering component weights. The math, with the generous assumption that this is a 27.5 wheelset rather than 29 and 28H rather than 32:
    660g rims
    256g spokes (assumes CX-Ray)
    17g nipples (assumes alloy)
    330g hubs (assumes Tune King/Kong)
    1273g Total

    Even spending $400 on Superspokes will only reduce the weight 36g from my total above. Then assume you had LB do lighter rims (- 15g/rim). Still leaves you at 1207g.

    Maybe if you used DT 180 rear hub and left the end caps off when weighing them. Or do 24 spoke wheels, which is arguably a stupid choice.

    My personal opinion is that chasing weight loss past the point of diminishing returns is foolish, but to each his own.

  82. #6382
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    carbon bicycle site seems to be a copy of the LB site which there have been from time to time. for the price difference I would go with LB. LB's website is not as organized as it could be so ask Nancy what width and whether you want hookless or not. I have bought the 27.5 in 35mm width and the 29er in 30mm width. The hookless has been great. I was concerned about tire retention but its been a non issue.
    Which width do you like the best? I have both a 27.5 and a 29er. I would like to upgrade to carbon rims. Nancy is advising to buy the 35mm. I ride with a 140mm travel, 2.4 on the front and 2.2 on the back. I weigh 185 lbs and ride single tract with a lot of climbing and some technical downhill, but I do not jump or do tricks.

  83. #6383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barch View Post
    Which width do you like the best? I have both a 27.5 and a 29er. I would like to upgrade to carbon rims. Nancy is advising to buy the 35mm. I ride with a 140mm travel, 2.4 on the front and 2.2 on the back. I weigh 185 lbs and ride single tract with a lot of climbing and some technical downhill, but I do not jump or do tricks.
    I like them both but my two bikes are completely different. My 27.5 is a Bronson which I use for all mountain technical riding and I wanted larger volume and lower pressure so the 35mm fit the bill. The 29er is a 100mm travel race oriented Tallboy so I went with 30mm. I might have gotten the 27 but again I thought the extra volume would be worth the extra grams. I think the 35 on the Tallboy would be overkill for what I use it for. 32 spoke f/r, and I weigh 175 all dressed. If weight is no concern then the 35 is a nice rim but its big. Both are hookless and I wouldn't buy the hooked version. The quality of the rims is great, no issues with LB.

  84. #6384
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    If youd like youre 2.2 tires to feel like 2.3s then the 35mm rim is the ticket. Basically any tire you mount on them will benefit from increased basically everything. Its kind of eye opening. My aedent 2.25 went from ok ill deal till they wear to pretty good on 35.

    Its just a bit more weight so unless youre truly racing all the time and think those few grams will make a difference then go big.

  85. #6385
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Mustanger,

    Thanks for your service to our country.

    There is another rim which you haven't mentioned: a 30mm outer, 24mm inner hookless version which is not shown on the LB website. That is the rim I would recommend to you.

    I'm not sure why LB doesn't list this model on the web -- I suspect that it was originally made for an OEM client and the contract prohibited them from doing so -- but they have been making it for months. Myself and many others on this thread have purchased them, and they are an excellent "middle" option between the lightest (27/22) and the widest (35/30).

    They are 2mm wider than the 27/22, and they have 20% thicker sidewalls (3mm vs 2.5mm) so should prove more resilient to rock strikes, etc.

    The older design for 30mm (the hooked 30/23 model) are inferior to the hookless 30/24 in my opinion. I've owned both. The 30/24 hookless have been easier for tubeless tire mounting.

    To order the 30/24 hookless, just send LB an email and ask them to send you an invoice. Then you can send a paypal payment citing the invoice.

    Good luck with the rest of the deployment, hope it passes quickly.
    I just received an email from Nancy at Light-Bicycle re the above. You are correct. There are two 30 mm OD rims with the #29C02. The hookless has an ID of 24 mm. The hooked has an ID of 23 mm.

    In lieu of this option, I would be interested in your opinion as to which rim would be best for me, the 30/24 or the 35/30. I have both a 29er and a 27.5. They both have 140mm travel and 2.4 on the front and 2.2 on the back. I weigh 190 lbs with pack. I ride in mountainous areas almost entirely on single tract. Much of it is quite narrow and rocky. I do a lot of climbing and descending, some fairly technical. I do not race, jump or do tricks.

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-29er-30mm-wide-hookless.jpg  

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-mtb-29er-wider-rim-30mm-width-geometry-profile-.jpg  


  86. #6386
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    My experience with the Novatec 772 hub that came on my light-bicycles wheel set has not been positive. About 3 months and 1000 miles of use. The ratchet ring exploded. I'm 160 lbs, ride XC, and don't have a history of breaking things. Multiple contact attempts with both Novatec and Light-Bicycle in the last week have been ignored so far.

    Luckily, the spoke lengths match what I needed to rebuild around a Hope hub, so that's what I did. The rims are fine, but the lack of quality in the hub, and the lack of support from Novatec and lb are disappointing.




  87. #6387
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    Not trying to rub salt in the wound, but that's what happens when you let price dictate what you buy.

    If you had done a search on Novatec hubs, you'd see you're not the only one.
    OG Ripley v2
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  88. #6388
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    not that i've done any in-depth research, but from the casual reading i've done on novatec hubs it seems that they have some good ones and some bads ones. not true? are they all a bit weak?

  89. #6389
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    I didn't expect them to be super high quality. I'd even verified that the spoke lengths would work with Hope prior to ordering just in case something like this happened. I did expect them to last longer than the tire, though.

  90. #6390
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    I'd also like to see the spec. 1177g seems unlikely considering component weights. The math, with the generous assumption that this is a 27.5 wheelset rather than 29 and 28H rather than 32:
    660g rims
    256g spokes (assumes CX-Ray)
    17g nipples (assumes alloy)
    330g hubs (assumes Tune King/Kong)
    1273g Total

    Even spending $400 on Superspokes will only reduce the weight 36g from my total above. Then assume you had LB do lighter rims (- 15g/rim). Still leaves you at 1207g.

    Maybe if you used DT 180 rear hub and left the end caps off when weighing them. Or do 24 spoke wheels, which is arguably a stupid choice.

    My personal opinion is that chasing weight loss past the point of diminishing returns is foolish, but to each his own.
    This wheelset was built purley for XC racing only so weight was the goal. I will u/l some pics when I can get it to work. Build is LB 27mm hookless rims, Extralite Hyper 2 front hub with Hyper Camber rear, Pillar X-tra lite ti spokes (32 f/r) and the matching alloy nips.

    I don't expect them to be the stiffest wheels around but climbing is my current weakness and weight makes a big difference here. As I progress in performance I will look at changing the spokes to something stronger if stiffness becomes an issue or I start breaking them.

    Total bike weight should be 7.8-7.9kg now.

  91. #6391
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    Just wanted to note that National Holidays in PRC are Oct. 1 - 7 this year. They're taking deserved time off. I hope they'll be in touch with you soon.

    Also, my correspondence with LB has always been timely. I bought a set of 23mm inner width rims a year ago, and recently one delaminated/cracked; they warrantied it, and let me upgrade to the 30mm inner width hookless rim, paying the $15 difference and shipping. That was their stated policy, and was completely fair.

  92. #6392
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    Quote Originally Posted by Collins View Post
    Just wanted to note that National Holidays in PRC are Oct. 1 - 7 this year. They're taking deserved time off. I hope they'll be in touch with you soon.

    Also, my correspondence with LB has always been timely. I bought a set of 23mm inner width rims a year ago, and recently one delaminated/cracked; they warrantied it, and let me upgrade to the 30mm inner width hookless rim, paying the $15 difference and shipping. That was their stated policy, and was completely fair.
    Which rim do you like the best?

  93. #6393
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikikuku View Post

    I thought I'd give you and update on the actual weight of these rims.
    Ordered in August - got the wheels in September, fast-reliable shipping.

    27mm XC version light bicycle 29er wheel set with novatec hub 32H spoke front and back, 3K clear coating with matte. Total actual weight come out to ~1700gm. What do you think ? Has anyone get different number ?

    <--here is my complete build, project weight is around 25lbs
    Are those the build the claim has a weight of 1445 they sell here?

    beadless carbon 29er XC light weight mtb tubeless wheelset hand-built 27mm wide Light-Bicycle

    Seems really high compared to the claimed weight.

  94. #6394
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    not that i've done any in-depth research, but from the casual reading i've done on novatec hubs it seems that they have some good ones and some bads ones. not true? are they all a bit weak?
    I have a set of Novatech hubs and will be buying a second. That said it on my son's 24 inch bike and will be for my daughters 24 inch wheel build, no way I'd run them on my bike.
    OG Ripley v2
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  95. #6395
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    @barch
    Haven't built the i-30mm yet. Though, I really like the stiffness/lightness of the i-23mm, and I like wide rims, so I expect good things. We'll see.

    I was hesitant to add weight to the rim, loosing some of the fast spin-up of the lighter rim, but I'm not sweating it.

  96. #6396
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    Anybody have experience with Yishun pre-built wheels? 27.5 hookless 35 wide rims and Novatech hubs. Pillar PSR X-TRA1420 4.3g/pc spokes. 12 x 142 XD driver hub. Less than $700 shipped. Good deal? I know some of the Novatech hubs are suspect, is there a certain model to avoid? Thanks for any opinions....

    I know the link shows 30 wide and hooked... 27.5er XXR650-30 Pro Striaght Pull Carbon MTb Wheels cross country/all mountain for $779.00 in Carbon Pro XXR Series - Wheels - MTB

  97. #6397
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    Has anyone had any luck getting Maxxis Ikon's set up tube less on the LB 27 mm exterior bead hook less rim's ?
    I got my Specialized Renegades and Captains to air up with a floor pump with soapy water many time's but after trying a floor pump on the Ikon's I finally went to the gas station and tried their tire pump but it wasn't really that strong.
    ​​
    2015 Flyxii / ENVE /Chris King Carbon 29'er H.T.
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  98. #6398
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    I had a very hard time setting up exo IKON's on the 27mm rims. I had to run 3 layers of tape and tinker with the air compressor to get the tires to set up. I recently switched to the tubeless ready IKON's and they are a much better combo. I'm back to one layer of tape an no issues with set up.

  99. #6399
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    Thank's my buddy brought his compressor over and we still couldn't get them aired up.
    I didn't have enough Stan's tape to add another layer so I took the Roval plastic rim strips and put them on and we got them to air up still had to use soapy water thou.
    I blew it because I bought the eXC/3C/EXO max speed folding and not the 3C / EXO/TR didn't realize until my buddy brought it up I payed $57.95 each and could of got the TR for $63.20 each instead.
    I know now when I buy the next set.
    Got to dark so I have to wait till after work in the morning to go get a ride on them.
    ​​
    2015 Flyxii / ENVE /Chris King Carbon 29'er H.T.
    SRAM XX1
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T. SRAM XX1
    1997 Rock Hopper / Rock Shox Recon Silver / 1 x 10 SRAM X9 XO Mix XT V Brake system

  100. #6400
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    I'm running 29 x 2.35 Ikons exo non-TR front and rear on 27/22 hookless LB rims with one layer of tape. I've always had to use compressed air to seat them (CO2 cartridge), but then they work ok. A couple times after a month or two I've come back the day after riding to find one totally deflated and unseated. I've just added sealant and reseated when this happens, but it is a little bothersome.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

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