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  1. #2751
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Are you running Bontrager strips, or what is your set-up?
    Just 1 layer of Gorilla tape with a Rocket Ron up front and a Bontrager 29-0 in the rear tubeless.

  2. #2752
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    I can definitely tell the difference in steering precision on the front but almost prefer the cushier ride of my Crests on the rear, but I am not going back.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  3. #2753
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    Anyone know what the weight of a single layer of gorilla tape is?

  4. #2754
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    Anyone know what the weight of a single layer of gorilla tape is?
    A single wrap of 24mm wide Gorilla tape added 24g per wheel with my 26-inch AM rims. Add 10% for a 29er. Yellow tape is more like 8-10g per wheel.

  5. #2755
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    Anyone know what the weight of a single layer of gorilla tape is?
    It's about 8-14g heavier than yellow tape from what I have found personally depending on width. It's what ENVE suggests for their carbon wheels, even though I am a weight-weenie I went with what the carbon makers recommend.

  6. #2756
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    Quote Originally Posted by broadwayline View Post
    Just 1 layer of Gorilla tape with a Rocket Ron up front and a Bontrager 29-0 in the rear tubeless.
    Wow, you are running the 29-0 in rock infested trail...I would never believed that skinny, thin walled tire would hold up to that abuse and a tire like that offers minimal rim protection. You must be a pretty graceful trail technician.

  7. #2757
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Wow, you are running the 29-0 in rock infested trail...I would never believed that skinny, thin walled tire would hold up to that abuse and a tire like that offers minimal rim protection. You must be a pretty graceful trail technician.
    To be honest I thought it would be much worse than it was, tire is surprisingly grippy and extremely fast in the dry (scary in the wet). The wide LB wheels actually made the footprint much better than my old Arch EX

  8. #2758
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    Hi Folks,

    This is a cross-post from wheels and tires, but it is a question regarding the Novatec D822SB on the rear wheel of my CCC prebuilt wheelset, so I thought I would ask here as well...
    I am super happy with the wheel set, other than the weight of the rear wheel. The rear hub is a wee bit on the heavy side. I am pretty certain that that model hub is all steel...steel hub shell, freehub body and axle. I am wondering if it is possible to swap out the freehub body and/or the axle for aluminum replacements. It looks like they sell aluminum freehub bodies but I don't know if they would be compatible with this hub. I have poked around on line quite a bit and tried to contact Novatec and their US sales guy, as well as some other online Novatec resellers. I can't find a conclusive answer myself and nobody I have reached out to has gotten back to me.
    Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated!
    Thanks!

  9. #2759
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    Quick question for folks using the Bontrager strips. Are most folks using the strips with or without sealant? As far as I can tell, from the many pages of the thread I have read, most are using sealant as well, but the original post (#131) by "indyfab25" that I believe initiated the idea of using the Bontrager strips seems to use the no-sealant approach-->

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

  10. #2760
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    Quote Originally Posted by JudgeMorris View Post
    Hi Folks,

    This is a cross-post from wheels and tires, but it is a question regarding the Novatec D822SB on the rear wheel of my CCC prebuilt wheelset, so I thought I would ask here as well...
    I am super happy with the wheel set, other than the weight of the rear wheel. The rear hub is a wee bit on the heavy side. I am pretty certain that that model hub is all steel...steel hub shell, freehub body and axle. I am wondering if it is possible to swap out the freehub body and/or the axle for aluminum replacements. It looks like they sell aluminum freehub bodies but I don't know if they would be compatible with this hub. I have poked around on line quite a bit and tried to contact Novatec and their US sales guy, as well as some other online Novatec resellers. I can't find a conclusive answer myself and nobody I have reached out to has gotten back to me.
    Any thoughts/suggestions are appreciated!
    Thanks!
    Here's the specs on it... D882SB (RH) - Novatec

    and some resources:

    http://novatecusa.net/wp-content/upl...atalog2012.pdf
    http://novatecusa.net/wp-content/upl...2012-02-08.pdf
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  11. #2761
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    I believe 99% are using sealant. Those using true UST type tires could probably get by without sealant if they never ran over a thorn.
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  12. #2762
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSH View Post
    Quick question for folks using the Bontrager strips. Are most folks using the strips with or without sealant? As far as I can tell, from the many pages of the thread I have read, most are using sealant as well, but the original post (#131) by "indyfab25" that I believe initiated the idea of using the Bontrager strips seems to use the no-sealant approach-->

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    The Ikon EXOs I mounted sealed and held air with no sealant but I still added sealant. It can't hurt, right?

  13. #2763
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    Thanks for the links. I did come acrossed that info myself when I was doing some research. It didn't seem (to me) to answer my questions. However, I did hear back from Henry at Novatec US. He has been very helpful so far. I'll be happy to post back if/when I make some progress if anybody is interested.

  14. #2764
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSH View Post
    Quick question for folks using the Bontrager strips. Are most folks using the strips with or without sealant? As far as I can tell, from the many pages of the thread I have read, most are using sealant as well, but the original post (#131) by "indyfab25" that I believe initiated the idea of using the Bontrager strips seems to use the no-sealant approach-->

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    You'll need sealant with 99.x% (just a guess at %) of the tires available. Post 131 is a typical example that one should air up and test the tire to make sure it will air up before adding sealant. Indyfab was just testing the bead and the tire on the rim with the strip to make sure it was golden to go after the Hans Dampf without the Bonty strip blew off the rim. Most tires will hold air for a certain duration before the air seeps out - some a few seconds to minutes, some even longer such as the tubeless ready Nobby Nic pictured in post 131. During that time frame you can test, as Indyfab did, for possible burping issues as pictured in his post. He was looking for security and a bombproof set up.

    The only tires I own and have found to be able to be run on a 29"er without sealant would be the Maxxis LUST versions of the Ardent 2.25 and Crossmark. Of course, they both weigh 200-300g more due to the extra rubber to make them tubeless. Even then, you have to dip the valve in sealant every now and then to plug up any air escaping around the valve stem hole. I have not tried them on the L-B carbon rims to see if they would run without sealant (they do fine on my NoTubes rims without sealant). The other caveat with the LUST tires is - if you do get a thorn or other puncture, you will have to patch the inside of the tire like one does with any tubeless tire run without sealant if you want to continue to run it sealant free. I've yet to puncture mine.

  15. #2765
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSH View Post
    Quick question for folks using the Bontrager strips. Are most folks using the strips with or without sealant? As far as I can tell, from the many pages of the thread I have read, most are using sealant as well, but the original post (#131) by "indyfab25" that I believe initiated the idea of using the Bontrager strips seems to use the no-sealant approach-->

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    The idea of the rim strip is to let them seat easier with just a floor pump by forming a tighter fit from the tire lip to the bead of the rim, or avoid rolling the tire off the rim at very low PSI - nothing to do with sealant.

  16. #2766
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    Thanks for the feedback on the rim strips everyone.
    I only have experience with the Stan's rims and yellow tape, so this is great info to get my set sealed up once I receive them

  17. #2767
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    Thought i should chime in. i built up a set of AM heavy 29er LB wheels with Chris kings. Been beating the crap out out of them. Went totally sideways and dug in after being thrown by a root. Rode them hard in rock gardens, taken some hits, totally bombproof. Really havnt gone out of true even. I had nobby nic rear and Hans dampf front. Switched to a purgatory rear and butcher front and love the combo, faster rolling seemingly. Just bummed the King hub isn't xx1 compatable or upgradable at this point in case I want to make the switch. Oh yeah, bonty rhythm strips (with sealent) on both although I had gorilla tape for a while that was fine. Strips really snug it up.

  18. #2768
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSH View Post
    Thanks for the feedback on the rim strips everyone.
    I only have experience with the Stan's rims and yellow tape, so this is great info to get my set sealed up once I receive them
    Either Stans or Gorilla is fine. Pull the Stans tape tight when you wrap it. Start away from the valve stem and overlap more than 3". Pull it tight!

  19. #2769
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    Quote Originally Posted by rensho View Post
    Start away from the valve stem
    Yes!!

    Don't know where the dingbats on this forum who recommend overlapping at the valve get it from.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  20. #2770
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    I believe they watch the movie on Stan's web site. I have done it both ways, and it doesn't seem to matter.
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  21. #2771
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    I believe they watch the movie on Stan's web site. I have done it both ways, and it doesn't seem to matter.
    You mean the "Yellow Tape Install" video below, where he says at 1:25 to start at the weld (opposite the valve hole)?

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/34568003" width="640" height="385" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  22. #2772
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    That is his new video. The one I watched 4 years ago said to start just before the valve hole and then come back around to past the valve hole. I didn't know they updated it.
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  23. #2773
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    Quote Originally Posted by rensho View Post
    Either Stans or Gorilla is fine. Pull the Stans tape tight when you wrap it. Start away from the valve stem and overlap more than 3". Pull it tight!
    Thanks Rensho! I'm pretty versed in taping up the Stan's rims. I've never used rim strips so didn't know how folks were using those.
    I haven't decided which way I'm going to go once I receive my set (strips or tape), but leaning towards the Gorilla tape. I'm a XC weenie anyway so no big hucking stuff for me.

  24. #2774
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    That is his new video. The one I watched 4 years ago said to start just before the valve hole and then come back around to past the valve hole. I didn't know they updated it.
    lol
    whatever you need to believe, dood. that's the same video that's been up for years. they don't even make the alpine rim anymore and that's an old school logo on it.
    I guess they used a time machine to upload that same vid to YouTube in June of '08, right? link


    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  25. #2775
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    Well I know you don't believe me, but the video I watched was from a longer shot and it might have been longer than 4 years ago. June of 08 was a little over 4 years and they have had video's way longer than that.
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  26. #2776
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    lol
    whatever you need to believe, dood. that's the same video that's been up for years. they don't even make the alpine rim anymore and that's an old school logo on it.
    I guess they used a time machine to upload that same vid to YouTube in June of '08, right? link


    well, fwiw, that's how I learned to do it as well (starting at the valve stem)

  27. #2777
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    Carbonality wheelset quality?

    I'm also wondering about the pre-built carbon wheels with Novatec hubs from Carbonality.
    I'm thinking about upgrading my stock Vuelta wheels to some carbon ones on my 29er. I saw that Carbonality is selling some wheelsets here:
    NSS M923C - GD - 29er mtb clincher wheelset - 29er MTB - Wheels

    I'd like to know if anyone has bought these and how they have held up. I'm looking for something a little on the light side but pretty tough. I'll probably run them ghetto tubeless with 2.1 tires. I do a lot of long distance XC racing so I'd like something reasonably light, but rugged.

    I've read through about 30 pages on this thread, so if I missed a relevant post, please point it out too, thanks!

  28. #2778
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    Is there a reason everyone is using the Bontrager rim strips instead of the Stan's rim strips? I know the Stan's cost more but I was just wondering if there was any other reason too.

    I am about to order the LB wider rim wheelset to run with 2.25" nobby nics. I am tempted to try to just run with yellow tape but I haven't decided yet.

  29. #2779
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    The Bontrager rim strips are not rubber like Stans. They are a stiffer higher strength plastic that turns the rim into a tubeless rim by having a high ridge just inside the bead seat. Tires are actually harder to push off the bead with the rim strip on these rims than on a real Stan's rim. Makes it totally secure.
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  30. #2780
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    Quote Originally Posted by hatrickpatrick View Post
    I'm also wondering about the pre-built carbon wheels with Novatec hubs from Carbonality.
    I'm thinking about upgrading my stock Vuelta wheels to some carbon ones on my 29er. I saw that Carbonality is selling some wheelsets here:
    NSS M923C - GD - 29er mtb clincher wheelset - 29er MTB - Wheels

    I'd like to know if anyone has bought these and how they have held up. I'm looking for something a little on the light side but pretty tough. I'll probably run them ghetto tubeless with 2.1 tires. I do a lot of long distance XC racing so I'd like something reasonably light, but rugged.

    I've read through about 30 pages on this thread, so if I missed a relevant post, please point it out too, thanks!
    I race them on my SSCX bike. They're super good, no problems with skinny 33c tires and a tubeless conversion. Super stiff, light, nice quality build from appearances. I bet they'd hold up well for marathon racing.
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  31. #2781
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    Thanks, that's the sort of info I was looking for.
    G

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    The Bontrager rim strips are not rubber like Stans. They are a stiffer higher strength plastic that turns the rim into a tubeless rim by having a high ridge just inside the bead seat. Tires are actually harder to push off the bead with the rim strip on these rims than on a real Stan's rim. Makes it totally secure.

  32. #2782
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    I race them on my SSCX bike. They're super good, no problems with skinny 33c tires and a tubeless conversion. Super stiff, light, nice quality build from appearances. I bet they'd hold up well for marathon racing.
    That's awesome news. Thanks for the feedback. I'll put it on my christmas list and hope. hehe...

  33. #2783
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    Can anyone compare and contrast these with American Classic MTB Race 29 wheels? I've heard that the AC's are lighter, have a 24mm internal width (wider than LB) and are pretty stiff. Anyone that can confirm, refute, or add their thoughts on the comparison between the two complete wheel sets?

  34. #2784
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    I've ridden both but on different bikes

    I have an older set of AC 29er wheels on my hardtail and built up a set of these with DT Swiss 240s for my fully. No contest as to stiffness. Depending on build the ACs may be lighter. I also own two sets of AC road wheels 420-aeros and Sprint 350s

    In my opinion some design shortcomings in AC hubs, which have been touted as advantages that should be mentioned:

    AC hubs have narrower flanges, which reduce the lateral stiffness of a wheel build (all other things equal). The reason given is that the wheel will use identical length spokes drive and non drive side, and will have roughly equal tensions. But having a wider flange puts a larger portion of the tension in the lateral dimension and gives a laterally stronger build. The inequality of tension between drive and non-drive sides is a red-herring.

    In addition my AC road wheels have started breaking spokes. The spokes exit the nipples at a rather extreme angle and I think this is a contributing factor along with the flexing, which causes metal fatigue. The use of proprietary nipples and spokes on my 420 aeros has been a source of unhappiness as well.

  35. #2785
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    I ordered a pair of the "wider" LB rims the other day. They're estimating 15 business days to make them. I'll hopefully see them around Christmas.

  36. #2786
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    There is an invoice in my inbox for a set of the wider LB wheels to be built with DT Swiss Super Comps on the d711sb/d712sb. I am only waiting to verify that at least the front hub can be converted to a through axle. A qr15 specifically. There seems to have been a recent change in the hub that allows this but I was wanting to confirm. Anyone have a recent set that can set the record straight?
    Thanks

  37. #2787
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    There is an invoice in my inbox for a set of the wider LB wheels to be built with DT Swiss Super Comps on the d711sb/d712sb. I am only waiting to verify that at least the front hub can be converted to a through axle. A qr15 specifically. There seems to have been a recent change in the hub that allows this but I was wanting to confirm. Anyone have a recent set that can set the record straight?
    Thanks
    Good question... Lots of the 2011 9mm models floating around. The US website shows the new one, Taiwan shows the old ones.

    Not to thread jack too much, but I'm surprised Novatec doesn't make a SS disc hub...

    Edit: Nevermind, didn't look in the DJ section. Several of them there...
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  38. #2788
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    There is an invoice in my inbox for a set of the wider LB wheels to be built with DT Swiss Super Comps on the d711sb/d712sb. I am only waiting to verify that at least the front hub can be converted to a through axle. A qr15 specifically. There seems to have been a recent change in the hub that allows this but I was wanting to confirm. Anyone have a recent set that can set the record straight?
    Thanks
    Even if the hub is convertible, you still have to figure out where to get the conversion caps.

    If I were you I'd look into the Novatec D881/D882 hubs. Those are convertible for sure and you can use the Transition Bikes conversion caps for them since the Transition bikes hubs are rebranded Novatec D881/D882 hubs

    Or, your other option if you need 9mm QR now but you want to future proof is to just get a 15mm front hub and then get one of these for 9mm. It'll be heavier but that's the trade-off f

    Mountain Bike 15mm thru Axle to Standard 5mm Quick Release Wheel Adapter | eBay

  39. #2789
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Even if the hub is convertible, you still have to figure out where to get the conversion caps.
    I'm sure LB can get the adapters from their supplier to include with the wheelset. If not, you can probably email the US distributor and get them there.
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  40. #2790
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    Saw this more appropriate thread so posting here also - sorry for the duplicates.

    First off, do not expect these rims to be of equal quality as the ones built by a well-known manufacturer. All rims are manufactured in China, but the quality is not held to the same standard everywhere.

    Pros: They are cheap, they are light, tubeless tires seal quickly. The Novatec hubs are good although I've only ridden them about 500 miles so far.

    Cons: You get what you pay for. Warranty is sub-standard. The wheels are built very light and I've had spokes rip out of the nipples. They are advertised as AM - this is questionable. They are an XC rim.

    So, quickly my story.

    Ordered whole wheel in early September, received them beginning of October. I rode them for a month and broke the front rim on a creek crossing (rocky and I wasn't going slow). I'm 175 lbs, riding a 2011 SC Tallboy C with 35 psi. I rode through the creek at a good clip, hitting all the obligatory rocks along the way. I heard a loud crack, followed by a violent tire blowout, followed by a nice endo (flesh wounds only). The rim broke in 2 places, simply broke off a 20" section. The breakage was at the holes drilled in the rim. I contacted Nancy and sent in the serial # along with pictures of the break. A bit of back and forth. She now agreed to send me a new rim (not a new wheel) and I have to pay for shipping ($29). When it gets here I'll have to get some new spokes and likely pay someone to lace up the hub.

    I also spoke with a friend of mine in AZ who ordered the road rims. He told me the front was very nice but the rear should not have passed QC. Like I said... you get what you pay for. Do not expect the quality to be equal to those built by well-known manufacturers.

    IMG_20121114_182033 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

    IMG_20121114_181714 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

  41. #2791
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhegglin View Post
    Saw this more appropriate thread so posting here also - sorry for the duplicates.

    First off, do not expect these rims to be of equal quality as the ones built by a well-known manufacturer. All rims are manufactured in China, but the quality is not held to the same standard everywhere.

    Pros: They are cheap, they are light, tubeless tires seal quickly. The Novatec hubs are good although I've only ridden them about 500 miles so far.

    Cons: You get what you pay for. Warranty is sub-standard. The wheels are built very light and I've had spokes rip out of the nipples. They are advertised as AM - this is questionable. They are an XC rim.

    So, quickly my story.

    Ordered whole wheel in early September, received them beginning of October. I rode them for a month and broke the front rim on a creek crossing (rocky and I wasn't going slow). I'm 175 lbs, riding a 2011 SC Tallboy C with 35 psi. I rode through the creek at a good clip, hitting all the obligatory rocks along the way. I heard a loud crack, followed by a violent tire blowout, followed by a nice endo (flesh wounds only). The rim broke in 2 places, simply broke off a 20" section. The breakage was at the holes drilled in the rim. I contacted Nancy and sent in the serial # along with pictures of the break. A bit of back and forth. She now agreed to send me a new rim (not a new wheel) and I have to pay for shipping ($29). When it gets here I'll have to get some new spokes and likely pay someone to lace up the hub.

    I also spoke with a friend of mine in AZ who ordered the road rims. He told me the front was very nice but the rear should not have passed QC. Like I said... you get what you pay for. Do not expect the quality to be equal to those built by well-known manufacturers.

    IMG_20121114_182033 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

    IMG_20121114_181714 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
    wow I think that's the first complete failure that I've seen for these rims.
    Glad you are (mostly) ok.

  42. #2792
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    Is there a reason everyone is using the Bontrager rim strips instead of the Stan's rim strips? I know the Stan's cost more but I was just wondering if there was any other reason too.

    I am about to order the LB wider rim wheelset to run with 2.25" nobby nics. I am tempted to try to just run with yellow tape but I haven't decided yet.
    I just use 1" Gorilla Tape. No need to go all Bontrager on this unless you want to. Yellow Tape worked for me but allowed a bit of seeping so I went with the burlier tape.

    JMH

  43. #2793
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    Stans tape has worked fine with the Ardent 2.4 on my bike. I ride aggressively but this setup hasn't burped, not even once. Granted, this is with just one season of riding.

    I have experienced precisely one flat so far. This was because the Stans had dried out and I hadn't bothered to put more in. Something large punctured the tire so the problem wasn't related to the tubeless tape but just that there wasn't any fluid left to seal the hole. I rode home slowly, stopping to put more air in the tire about every 1/4 mile. Even when it got down to rolling on the rim, the bead never unseated.

  44. #2794
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    Bad break there. What do you think an arch ex rim might have done? Big dent or roll over?

    I found a supplier that deals with novatec parts. rbopbicycles or something. I think I googled "Novatec end caps". They're in Taiwan but were good with email. Said they didn't think the older versions of the 711sb hub would take the new end caps which they didn't even have yet. I think the new version of the hubs are not yet available. I asked Nancy if she could check on their availability. If I can't get the convertible ones I may punt on the whole carbon thing and get an arch ex set on the 3.30 hubs. I think they'd be about 150g heavier than the LB wider set on 711/712's but $200 less too. I suppose I could just wait a couple months for the winter to start then end and the hubs to be released.

  45. #2795
    Greystoke
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    Not looking good.

    How many others have front wheel failures?
    I've opted for a Chinese front & Enve rear, my thoughts were the rear has to take a larger beating than the front, but in retrospect if I was going to break a rim I would prefer the rear.

  46. #2796
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhegglin View Post

    Ordered whole wheel in early September, received them beginning of October. I rode them for a month and broke the front rim on a creek crossing (rocky and I wasn't going slow). I'm 175 lbs, riding a 2011 SC Tallboy C with 35 psi. I rode through the creek at a good clip, hitting all the obligatory rocks along the way. I heard a loud crack, followed by a violent tire blowout, followed by a nice endo (flesh wounds only). The rim broke in 2 places, simply broke off a 20" section. The breakage was at the holes

    IMG_20121114_182033 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

    IMG_20121114_181714 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
    True about the AM recommendations, I wouldn't go beyond XC in them

    So, since you're the first full catastrophic rim failure, can you explain a bit more.

    What does "good clip" mean exactly, and "hitting all of the obligatory rocks"? Is that 30mph hitting boulders, or 15mph hitting fist sized rocks, just so we can get an idea.

    I've seen plenty of alloy rims fail in similar fashion at xc races (saw a mavic rim totally taco itself last race ) but most times it's from a frontal impact.

    I've had mine for 4 months now on novatec and rotaz hubs riding only xc - done some pretty rough rides with 0 issues. Love them

  47. #2797
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    The guy who broke the rim was also pulling the spokes out of the nipples so we shouldn't jump to conclusions about the durability of these rims.

  48. #2798
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    Just received 2 29er wider rims that I ordered. Took about 3 weeks total, 2 weeks to manufacture(Brian told me there would be a delay since there were like 60 orders before mine) and then 1 week shipping. Both weighed in at 400grams and both measured 603erd.
    I now own 3 sets of light-bicycle wheels. 1 set in each size.

  49. #2799
    Trail Ninja
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    The guy with the break is just trying to make a point that emphasizes quality inconsistency issues. Anyone with a holistic perspective should see that.

    He's also warning that if you're the AM type, maybe the kind that likes to look for and ride rougher lines fast on purpose, that you shouldn't feel very confident on these rims. Most riders should know how much confidence is worth on the trail, in determining how daring you want to be.

    He's also implying something about the full wheel build quality, and how that doesn't guarantee a problem free wheel, with issues such as spokes pulling out of the nipples. Wheel builders should know that shouldn't happen if you use new nipples, spokes, and hand build them carefully, but who's to say that wheel was built that way?

    Warranties in the US typically means a brand is confident in their product and that you should also trust in it, as they are backing it up. In this case, I get the impression that it should be more like a "ride at your own risk" disclaimer, with a generous "crash/accident replacement" cost, rather than a warranty.

    He mentions Nancy, so you should know which factory he's talking about here, which may have some amateurs working for them and/or some poor QA standards.

  50. #2800
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    All of that is possible. But with only one reported complete rim failure, should we assume the worst?

    I've personally witnessed the failure of pretty much every brand and every component while "just riding along". Does that mean that those brands have poor QA standards? Or is it that every product can break?

    Posts in this thread will help build a reputation one way or the other. But so far I don't think there are enough bad reports to constitute a bad reputation.

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