Page 51 of 163 FirstFirst ... 4147484950515253545561101151 ... LastLast
Results 2,501 to 2,550 of 8113
  1. #2501
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    566
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    Since the base of the nipple slot is the ideal place for the ends of the spokes, that is where you measure ERD.
    This is what I did. Came up with 602mm. Using DT's spoke calc, with the ERD of 602, my spokes were about 1mm too long. They were sticking out the bottom of the nipple too far.

    I believe that DT's spoke calc is off by 1mm. Could just be me, but I cut my spokes to the length suggested by DT and I had to make them shorter after I laced up both my wheels. A major PITA. I can't remember if I read it, or the guys at wheelbuilder told me that there was something about DT's spoke calc that was off. In my case, it most certainly was

  2. #2502
    transmitter~receiver
    Reputation: meltingfeather's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    8,838
    Quote Originally Posted by mucky View Post
    This is what I did. Came up with 602mm. Using DT's spoke calc, with the ERD of 602, my spokes were about 1mm too long. They were sticking out the bottom of the nipple too far.

    I believe that DT's spoke calc is off by 1mm. Could just be me, but I cut my spokes to the length suggested by DT and I had to make them shorter after I laced up both my wheels. A major PITA. I can't remember if I read it, or the guys at wheelbuilder told me that there was something about DT's spoke calc that was off. In my case, it most certainly was
    All three if my rims were 603mm.
    There is nothing wrong with the DT Calc. It does simple, repeatable math and shows you all the inputs.
    The if you mean prowheelbuilder.com, their calc is not right, or at least it doesn't do the math they say it does and I can't duplicate the results. They also don't show all the necessary inputs. They link to a Wikipedia article with the formula in it. Run the numbers yourself and they don't come out the same.
    If your spokes end up 1mm above the slot, there's nothing wrong with that. If you disassembled your wheel and trimmed the spokes by 1mm, unfortunately you wasted a bunch of time. If they actually protrude past the ends of the nipples you did something wrong. The DT calc is not at fault.
    Last edited by meltingfeather; 09-29-2012 at 07:57 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  3. #2503
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    566
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    All three if my rims were 603mm.
    There is nothing wrong with the DT Calc. It does simple, repeatable math and shows you all the inputs.
    The if you mean prowheelbuilder.com, their calc is not right, or at least it doesn't do the math they say it does and I can't duplicate the results. They also don't show all the necessary inputs. They link to a Wikipedia article with the formula in it. Run the numbers yourself and they don't come out the same.
    If your spokes end up 1mm above the slot, there's nothing wrong with that. If you disassembled your wheel and trimmed the spokes by 1mm, unfortunately you wasted a bunch of time. If they actually protrude past the ends of the nipples you did something wrong. The DT calc is not at fault.
    Both of my rims have an ERD of 602mm. I don't know why or how they are different from your, but they are. And before you wrongly assume I did that wrong, the way I determined the ERD was like this:

    - I glued a nipple to the end of 2 different spokes
    - I cut the spokes to 200mm from the slot of the nipple.
    - I put each spoke through opposing holes, lined them up with a laser and propped them off the ground so they were level to the ground and perpendicular to the rim.
    - I then measured the distance between the 2 spoke ends, 202mm, and added 400mm to that. That = 602mm.

    Wheelbuilder.com built my Crest wheels, not prowheelbuilder. They used spokes that were 1mm too long, according to what DT's calculator said should be used. This is irrelevant.
    I cut my spokes to EXACTLY the length DT's calc said they should be, based on an ERD of 602mm, and they were sticking out the bottom of the nipple. Not a lot, maybe a 1/2mm or so, but too much as the wheel wasn't up to tension yet. I did nothing wrong.

  4. #2504
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Climber999's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    720
    A great thread!

    I am considering pulling the trigger. Can any anyone share their experience/opinion on running on them on a 29er HT? I'm shying away from ENVE due to reported excessive stiffness and and even some harshness (per Walt from Waltwork in one of the threads I researched).

    I used to run Flow, but losing some weight and gaining some footprint will be appreciated.

  5. #2505
    transmitter~receiver
    Reputation: meltingfeather's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    8,838
    Quote Originally Posted by mucky View Post
    Both of my rims have an ERD of 602mm. I don't know why or how they are different from your, but they are. And before you wrongly assume I did that wrong, the way I determined the ERD was like this:

    - I glued a nipple to the end of 2 different spokes
    - I cut the spokes to 200mm from the slot of the nipple.
    - I put each spoke through opposing holes, lined them up with a laser and propped them off the ground so they were level to the ground and perpendicular to the rim.
    - I then measured the distance between the 2 spoke ends, 202mm, and added 400mm to that. That = 602mm.
    I didn't say you measured ERD wrong, I said if your spokes are protruding past the ends of the nipples (you didn't answer my question), you did something wrong.
    You have falsely accused the DT Swiss calculator of not doing the right math. The calc is not the source of your issue, that's all I'm saying.

    Quote Originally Posted by mucky View Post
    Wheelbuilder.com built my Crest wheels, not prowheelbuilder. They used spokes that were 1mm too long, according to what DT's calculator said should be used. This is irrelevant.
    Ah... I just know that the prowheelbuilder.com calc is fishy, I didn't understand who you were talking about.
    1mm too long when using the Stan's published ERD? That actually makes perfect sense. Measure a Stan's ERD by the method you describe and you'll find it is 1.5mm larger than what they print on the sticker.
    Quote Originally Posted by mucky View Post
    I cut my spokes to EXACTLY the length DT's calc said they should be, based on an ERD of 602mm, and they were sticking out the bottom of the nipple. Not a lot, maybe a 1/2mm or so, but too much as the wheel wasn't up to tension yet. I did nothing wrong.
    Past the end of the nipple or the bottom of the slot?
    There is no problem with the DT Calc. It's easy to check the math. Why would it give wheelbuilder.com a short result and you a long one? It's just a calculator... it does the same thing over and over again, if used correctly.
    If you want to find out what the problem actually was, I'll help you track it down.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  6. #2506
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    566
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post

    Past the end of the nipple or the bottom of the slot?
    There is no problem with the DT Calc. It's easy to check the math. Why would it give wheelbuilder.com a short result and you a long one? It's just a calculator... it does the same thing over and over again, if used correctly.
    If you want to find out what the problem actually was, I'll help you track it down.
    They were just past the end of the nipple. Not by a lot, but the wheel was at about 50% tension.
    I have a DT 240s Fifteen front hub and a 240s 6 bolt rear hub. Easy enough to input on the DT calc. The calc said 292 for both sides of the rear and 293(L) and 295(R) for the front. All of my rear spokes were under 292, closer to 291. On the front I cut the R side to 294, the actual was 294.5. 294 was perfect. The left side was VERY close to 292, and the actual length was 292.9.
    In the end it didn't matter, as having the threading machine was very helpful, but what a pain to unlace the wheel to re-cut the spokes.
    Like I said, not sure what wheelbuilder was doing, but the spoke they used on my front wheel were past the bottom of the nipple by at least 1mm.

    I may take you up on some help, but more about building.

    Thanks

  7. #2507
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    21

    Good job! 150 km review

    I recently bought and built out a set of these LB rims or "Nancy wheels" as I like to call them. I went with the wider 32 hole 3k glossy ones. They arrived inside of 5 days with great communication from Brian during the confirmation process. The build out is with Hope Evo II's and DT comp spokes. Also running racing ralph and icon tires.

    I have logged about 150 kms over some pretty rough New Zealand terrain and I am loving the ride. I am a heavy rider at 245lbs on a salsa big mama. I have taken some 2-3 ft drops and hard cornering and ruts with no issues whatsoever. I took them back in for a quick spoke tightening and they needed only two small tweaks. My ride is much lighter and tubeless is a big difference. This is by far the best bike investment I've ever made. Made a $1500 ride like a $6000 one.

  8. #2508
    mtbr member
    Reputation: grouan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    257

    Low count spoke rims?

    Great thread- I really appreciate the conversation and the sharing of information.... It is such a huge resource.

    I am contemplating building a set of lighter wheels for special days/races- the front would be a lefty.

    I have seen a few lefty hubs with less spoke holes (DT Swiss comes to mind) and was wondering if anyone has had any experience building a low spoke count wheel (24 holes)?

    Normally I value durability over weight- but the allure of light/stiff fast wheels is a pretty strong pull.

    Is this a stupid idea?

  9. #2509
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    7,939
    Quote Originally Posted by grouan View Post
    Great thread- I really appreciate the conversation and the sharing of information.... It is such a huge resource.

    I am contemplating building a set of lighter wheels for special days/races- the front would be a lefty.

    I have seen a few lefty hubs with less spoke holes (DT Swiss comes to mind) and was wondering if anyone has had any experience building a low spoke count wheel (24 holes)?

    Normally I value durability over weight- but the allure of light/stiff fast wheels is a pretty strong pull.

    Is this a stupid idea?
    I've the same pull, but Stan's Flow's on blow out for $50 each, the pull on my wallet was greater than the weight savings.

  10. #2510
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    301
    just put some tires on a friend's light bicycle carbon rims and they didnt seem that friendly. Trying to get them to inflate tubless wasn't easy. Luckily i have a massive compressor at home and shot 100psi in it instantly and it finally took. Hoping they stay sealed.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  11. #2511
    Dinner for wolves
    Reputation: buddhak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,557
    I am sure somebody here has beaten me to this long ago, but I just emailed LB and begged them to consider producing a 26" x 65mm wide carbon rim. Specifically, what I recommended was a 26 x 50-65mm rim to entice the all season fat cyclist (or fat front cyclist). I recommended they look to the Marge Lite as an alu example of the type of rim that I would love to see (and buy). If anyone here has a yearning for a LB fat rim, drop them an email and make your voice heard. I don't know a thing about carbon rim manufacture, and I don't even know if a strong+light ultra wide rim is possible. So no flames, please. It can't hurt to ask.
    Responds to gravity

  12. #2512
    Stupid is, as stupid does
    Reputation: spunkmtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    598
    Quote Originally Posted by BloodyRoots View Post
    just put some tires on a friend's light bicycle carbon rims and they didnt seem that friendly. Trying to get them to inflate tubless wasn't easy. Luckily i have a massive compressor at home and shot 100psi in it instantly and it finally took. Hoping they stay sealed.
    What brand tires were they?
    Yeti SB95C
    Carver Ti420(650B wheels/160 Fork)
    Pivot M6-For sale in classifieds
    VeloFix-Save time. Ride More

  13. #2513
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SwintOrSlude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    23
    Quick feedback:

    Just laced up my front wheel 2 weeks ago, with a Tune King MK 20mm hub and Sapim CX-Ray spokes. Although not perfect, the lacing process has been pretty good, with just minor corrections needed to make the wheel perfectly true once all spokes were at the same tension on each side. FYI I put 110kgf on the disc side (Tune rates the King MK hub at 100kgf, so with close-to-perfect tension I assume this is acceptable).

    As for the tubeless setup, I'm using the Bontrager Rythm Symmetric strips, which fit the rim PERFECTLY, it's like they have been made for the rim. I had a hard time popping the tire (Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35) completely, as it would pop on 3/4 of the rim AND be airtight, which ended up in the tire wobbling from one side to the other. I had to remove the tire, soap it up and inflate the tire 3 times with a compressor at more than 5 bars (>75psi!) to get the tire to pop on all sides, was really scared for the rim, but it eventually worked. At least it is perfectly straight on the rim now. I'm suspecting the tire to not be perfectly round, though, I don't think it has anything to do with the rim itself.

    What I can say is that the seal between the rim/bontrager strip combo and the tire seems VERY good. Even when deflating the tire, at 0.3-0.4 bars, all beads stay popped into the rim groove, even when moving the tire from side to side, which is the kind of rim/tire connection that I usually observe with a true UST rim (not the case with the ghetto/notubes setups I've tried before).

    I've only been using the front rim for about 30km, with a tube, so can't say if the tubeless setup is bombproof, but will give it a tough test next weekend, I tend to ride quite aggressively and have burped most of the ghetto tubeless / Stan's notubes setups I've been on. The only flawless setup for me has been the Mavic EX823 / Minion DHF UST double ply combo, never a burp, perfect, but of course it is a pure downhilll combo. Will see how this lighter wheel fares, especially the rear wheel!

    I will be lacing the rear wheel to a Halo Supadrive hub and CX-Ray spokes, total wheelset weight should be around 1530g without the rear 12mm skewer (front wheel actually weighs 681g); I'll be giving more feedback once I have used the wheelset thoroughly.

  14. #2514
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by BloodyRoots View Post
    just put some tires on a friend's light bicycle carbon rims and they didnt seem that friendly. Trying to get them to inflate tubless wasn't easy. Luckily i have a massive compressor at home and shot 100psi in it instantly and it finally took. Hoping they stay sealed.
    I inflated my Panaracer Driver tires on LB Wide rims with one round of Gorilla tape and a floor pump. It helped to pull the tire bead towards the hook but no real problems.

    Search this thread and you can see what is likely to happen if you go over 70psi (way too high for tubeless mtb tire) on these rims...Fwiw Stans doesn't even recommend going over 40 psi on his rims and I'd follow that guideline for these. I went up to 50 to seal mine initially which was more than enough. Be careful and pay attention to recommended psi of the tire and if its not tubeless specific it may not handle the higher psi. If you blow a tire off one of these rims it will destroy it.

  15. #2515
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    9
    is there also a tubolar-type of those chinese carbon rims?

  16. #2516
    Always Learning
    Reputation: BruceBrown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    9,513
    Quote Originally Posted by BloodyRoots View Post
    just put some tires on a friend's light bicycle carbon rims and they didnt seem that friendly. Trying to get them to inflate tubless wasn't easy. Luckily i have a massive compressor at home and shot 100psi in it instantly and it finally took. Hoping they stay sealed.
    Bontrager Rhythm Strips. $9.99 for the pair will do the job like no other on the rims. The oddest thing about ordering those strips is they are sent in a "HUGE" cardboard box. Not sure why, but it's odd.

    BB

  17. #2517
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    463
    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Bontrager Rhythm Strips. $9.99 for the pair will do the job like no other on the rims. The oddest thing about ordering those strips is they are sent in a "HUGE" cardboard box. Not sure why, but it's odd.

    BB
    They don't want to crease the rim strip when packaging. Maybe.

  18. #2518
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Bontrager Rhythm Strips. $9.99 for the pair will do the job like no other on the rims. The oddest thing about ordering those strips is they are sent in a "HUGE" cardboard box. Not sure why, but it's odd.

    BB
    Its not the strips that arent sealing. I was able to get the tires on by hand...without using a tire tool. I had to put a strap around the tires and force them to the edge of the rim....just doesnt look like the light bixycle carbon rims are that great.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  19. #2519
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    736
    Quote Originally Posted by BloodyRoots View Post
    Its not the strips that arent sealing. I was able to get the tires on by hand...without using a tire tool. I had to put a strap around the tires and force them to the edge of the rim....just doesnt look like the light bixycle carbon rims are that great.
    Are you saying that the rim profile is bad for tubeless or perhaps that the bead wasn't properly formed? Is it the exact rim or are you saying that the design itself is bad?

    Without more detail, your terse post should likely be viewed as just the typical frustration of getting a tire seated.

  20. #2520
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    301
    Have you ever been able to put a tire completely on a rim by hand? Not using any tire tools.. just ur fingers? Ive done 50 or so tire installs and have never been able to.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  21. #2521
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    463
    Quote Originally Posted by BloodyRoots View Post
    Have you ever been able to put a tire completely on a rim by hand? Not using any tire tools.. just ur fingers? Ive done 50 or so tire installs and have never been able to.
    Yes. Road tires, tubed tires, tubless tires all by hand.

    Your belt technique is interesting. You could have also put a tube in there, aired up, let them sit overnight, and then take tube out and air up.

  22. #2522
    I <3 dirt
    Reputation: Ilikemtb999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,412
    I've never used a tool to install a tire ever....just by hand.

  23. #2523
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    904
    Quote Originally Posted by BloodyRoots View Post
    Have you ever been able to put a tire completely on a rim by hand? Not using any tire tools.. just ur fingers? Ive done 50 or so tire installs and have never been able to.
    I have the opposite experience. I've only mounted about 10 tires so far and I don't think I've ever used a tire lever to get the tire on.
    This includes mounting the nobby nics on my light-bicycle 26 inch carbon rims with the rhythm strips.
    I usually start on the side that is opposite of the valve and make sure both beads are in the center channel. That usually gives enough room to push the bead in. The only time I came close to using a lever was with a Kenda small block 8 tire to a Sun Ringle Black Flag Pro 29er rim.

  24. #2524
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    736
    Yes. It is dependent on the rim / tire combination. Some tires are a little large and some rims are a little small. Combine those together and tire mounting requires no levers. On the other hand, the opposite is also true. Some of my wire bead downhill tires can't be mounted with plastic levers. A large rim, small tire, wire bead combination can require metal levers. Plastic levers break long before the tire is mounted. Kenda blue groove 2.6 on azonic outlaws fell into that category for me.

    Maxxis ardent 2.4s fit perfectly on all four of my wider 29er light bicycle rims. A single, wimpy plastic lever made the final bit of tire go over the bead with the expected amount of leverage.

  25. #2525
    transmitter~receiver
    Reputation: meltingfeather's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    8,838
    Quote Originally Posted by BloodyRoots View Post
    Have you ever been able to put a tire completely on a rim by hand? Not using any tire tools.. just ur fingers? Ive done 50 or so tire installs and have never been able to.
    I've done hundreds of tire installs and can count on one hand the number of times I've used a lever.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  26. #2526
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    301
    they were new sworks tires 2bliss. I've got the same set on other rims and they all require a tire tool to get them on, and a LOT of force usually. These required no force to get on the light-bicycle rims. They basically went out without having to stretch the tire.. like putting a 29er tire on a 26er rim. I've never personally seen this, mine are usually hard to get on the rim.. but if you guys have seen this before then i guess it's nothing out of the ordinary.

    I tried the belt around the tire, but in the end 100psi burst from my 40gal compressor did the trick hehe, never fails. If you do tubeless setups semi regularly, nothing beats an air compressor. I can 100% say these are the least tubeless friendly rims I've worked with before, but once theyre setup, theyre setup.. and with the right tools setup is never really THAT difficult.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  27. #2527
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    2
    I have just built up a set of these rims. The wide 29er Light-Bicycle ones built onto Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs and DT Comp spokes, very pleased with how they have built up.

    As recommended in this thread I used the Bonty Rhythm Rim strip and I have managed to get tyres inflated ok. A 2.25 TL Racing Ralph needed to have an inner tube put in over night to get it to seat, now I have done that it goes up ok. I have also fitted a Specialized S-Works 2Bliss Ground Control and that went up very quickly with light pumping from a track pump, I would say it was a tight fit on the rim and took a bit of force to get the last bit of bead onto the rim, but didn't need any tools. I have always used proper UST rims before and I would say that these were no more difficult to inflate tyres on.

    The only problem I have had is the Bonty valves refused to seat well in the rim strips, not sure if I bought the wrong ones? but I have replaced these with another brand and they work fine now.

  28. #2528
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    If you know the proper technique getting a tire on a rim without a tire tool is the norm not the exception. I probably do 50 installs a year with changing around 6 soon to be 7 MTB wheelsets that is 12 soon to be 14 wheels and my 7 road wheelsets.. I don't think I have ever used a tool installing a 29er tire and only on very tight 700c tires have I ever had to use a tool (such as Open Corsa's on Zip rims.)

    With each bead start away from the valve stem and as you put the bead on work it toward the channel in the middle of the tire. Towards the end, hold the wheel with your left hand such that your thumb is at the valve stem and pulling up on that last bit of bead. Use your right hand to go around and push the bead into the center channel then use both thumbs to push that last little bit over. Repeat from the other side. On the 2nd side you might have to push hard on the bead to get it into the middle because the other bead wants to get in the way; but keep applying upward pressure with your left thumb and work your way around the bead with your right a couple of times and it will generally pop right on.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  29. #2529
    ballbuster
    Reputation: pimpbot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,702

    What's a UR finger?

    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    I've done hundreds of tire installs and can count on one hand the number of times I've used a lever.
    Kinky!

    Yeah, these rims are like any other disc specific rim. You should not have a problem getting a kevlar bead tire on by hand. Unlike my Bontrager Mustang rim brake wheels. I can get a tire on those by hand, but it's a struggle... and I have strong bass player fingers.

  30. #2530
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    If you know the proper technique getting a tire on a rim without a tire tool is the norm not the exception. I probably do 50 installs a year with changing around 6 soon to be 7 MTB wheelsets that is 12 soon to be 14 wheels and my 7 road wheelsets.. I don't think I have ever used a tool installing a 29er tire and only on very tight 700c tires have I ever had to use a tool (such as Open Corsa's on Zip rims.)

    With each bead start away from the valve stem and as you put the bead on work it toward the channel in the middle of the tire. Towards the end, hold the wheel with your left hand such that your thumb is at the valve stem and pulling up on that last bit of bead. Use your right hand to go around and push the bead into the center channel then use both thumbs to push that last little bit over. Repeat from the other side. On the 2nd side you might have to push hard on the bead to get it into the middle because the other bead wants to get in the way; but keep applying upward pressure with your left thumb and work your way around the bead with your right a couple of times and it will generally pop right on.
    Regardless if you use a tire tool or not, you still have to stretch the tire to get on the rim. I didnt at all, it just fell onto it via the force of gravity pretty much.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  31. #2531
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    A wide rim with a deep channel and it can go on easy.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  32. #2532
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    736
    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    If you know the proper technique getting a tire on a rim without a tire tool is the norm not the exception. I probably do 50 installs a year with changing around 6 soon to be 7 MTB wheelsets that is 12 soon to be 14 wheels and my 7 road wheelsets.. I don't think I have ever used a tool installing a 29er tire and only on very tight 700c tires have I ever had to use a tool (such as Open Corsa's on Zip rims.)

    With each bead start away from the valve stem and as you put the bead on work it toward the channel in the middle of the tire. Towards the end, hold the wheel with your left hand such that your thumb is at the valve stem and pulling up on that last bit of bead. Use your right hand to go around and push the bead into the center channel then use both thumbs to push that last little bit over. Repeat from the other side. On the 2nd side you might have to push hard on the bead to get it into the middle because the other bead wants to get in the way; but keep applying upward pressure with your left thumb and work your way around the bead with your right a couple of times and it will generally pop right on.
    That works for the type of tires and rims you deal with on a regular basis. However not all 29ers can mount tires without levers. Tools aren't necessary for light weight tires but are absolutely necessary with some large or wire beaded tires.

    When providing advice, it seems wise to not express a moderate view. Tire levers are necessary in some situations but not others.

  33. #2533
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    301
    Run the same tires on my flow/hope setup and they require a tire lever for sure.
    2013 Ibis Mojo HD Special Blend with dropper post, hope/stans wheelset and hope x2/m4 brakes

  34. #2534
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    566
    I have a Rocket Ron and a Maxxis Aspen. The Ron was so tight, I broke one of my tire levers trying to get it on. The Aspen went on VERY easy, almost too easy.

    With that said, The same Ron tire went on without a lever on my Crest rim.

  35. #2535
    Always Learning
    Reputation: BruceBrown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    9,513
    Quote Originally Posted by BloodyRoots View Post
    Its not the strips that arent sealing. I was able to get the tires on by hand...without using a tire tool. I had to put a strap around the tires and force them to the edge of the rim....just doesnt look like the light bixycle carbon rims are that great.
    Do you have the strips from Bontrager? They turn the rim into a nice UST interface - or as close as one needs to get. It also makes the tire bead a very tight and secure fit. I continue to recommend them simply for the safety factor and, well - see post #131 in this thread. Sums it up in pictures, secure interface and all matters specific to running these critters tubeless.

    Did you soap up the bead before trying to inflate?

    At least with the Schwalbe tubeless ready tires and the Bontrager Rhythm strips, airing up with a floor pump is easy as pie. No burping. Secure and bombproof. Personally, I wouldn't want any less underneath me by trying it just with tape.

    BB

  36. #2536
    Living the Dream
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,635

    Have you had a flat with the rim strips yet?

    I tore a side wall in a maxxis IKON last week. Stans would not plug the hole, so I had to install a tire boot and tube. I could not remove the the rim strip so I had to leave it in place. I was afraid of getting a flat from leaving the strip in place, but I got lucky I guess. That is my only concern with the bontrager strips, is that they are hard to remove and they have some sharp surfaces. Otherwise, they have been bomproof and I have had no burping over the past three months.

    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Do you have the strips from Bontrager? They turn the rim into a nice UST interface - or as close as one needs to get. It also makes the tire bead a very tight and secure fit. I continue to recommend them simply for the safety factor and, well - see post #131 in this thread. Sums it up in pictures, secure interface and all matters specific to running these critters tubeless.

    Did you soap up the bead before trying to inflate?

    At least with the Schwalbe tubeless ready tires and the Bontrager Rhythm strips, airing up with a floor pump is easy as pie. No burping. Secure and bombproof. Personally, I wouldn't want any less underneath me by trying it just with tape.

    BB
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  37. #2537
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    I have removed a rimstrip by inserting a punch under it by going through the valve hole and lifting up then working it off the rim. I would think that a tube would work with the rim strip though.

    As far as the tire mounting thing goes, I have mounted wire bead Stouts on Stans rims with no tools and until just recently, they were about as heavy duty as it got. I admit that all but one of my wheelsets are Stans. But my road wheels are many brands and they have narrow channels.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  38. #2538
    Always Learning
    Reputation: BruceBrown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    9,513
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpenglow View Post
    I tore a side wall in a maxxis IKON last week. Stans would not plug the hole, so I had to install a tire boot and tube. I could not remove the the rim strip so I had to leave it in place. I was afraid of getting a flat from leaving the strip in place, but I got lucky I guess. That is my only concern with the bontrager strips, is that they are hard to remove and they have some sharp surfaces. Otherwise, they have been bomproof and I have had no burping over the past three months.
    No, I have not had a flat yet. Actually, I haven't had a flat - knock on wood - on any of my bikes this year or last year. Maybe I'm due...

    I have removed the strips only once (when I moved them from my Blunt rims to the light-bicycle rims). I think I just inserted a small headed screwdriver in the valve hole, lifted that section up a bit and got my finger under the strip to remove it. And I have no tape under the strip, so doing that and using a tube is not an option for me. I only carry a tube on events such as a 50 mile race and would have inserted the tube over the strip after removing the tubeless valve.

    BB

  39. #2539
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,237
    Question about using the the LB wider rims in general as I was planning on building up a set of LB wheels over the winter. Right now I'm using some of the older (original) Stans rims with Schwalbe NN 2.25 tires. Bike is an Asylum (which is pretty much the same as the Titus racer X 29er). I'm pretty much maxed out on my rear wheel clearance. Will using the LB wide 29er rims increase my tire width at all or just flatten out the profile keeping the overall tire width the same??

    Michael

  40. #2540
    Always Learning
    Reputation: BruceBrown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    9,513
    Quote Originally Posted by KMan View Post
    Question about using the the LB wider rims in general as I was planning on building up a set of LB wheels over the winter. Right now I'm using some of the older (original) Stans rims with Schwalbe NN 2.25 tires. Bike is an Asylum (which is pretty much the same as the Titus racer X 29er). I'm pretty much maxed out on my rear wheel clearance. Will using the LB wide 29er rims increase my tire width at all or just flatten out the profile keeping the overall tire width the same??

    Michael
    Which Stans rims? Flows?

  41. #2541
    ballbuster
    Reputation: pimpbot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,702
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpenglow View Post
    I tore a side wall in a maxxis IKON last week. Stans would not plug the hole, so I had to install a tire boot and tube. I could not remove the the rim strip so I had to leave it in place. I was afraid of getting a flat from leaving the strip in place, but I got lucky I guess. That is my only concern with the bontrager strips, is that they are hard to remove and they have some sharp surfaces. Otherwise, they have been bomproof and I have had no burping over the past three months.
    I did one of mine with just yellow tape and a brand new WTB Werewolf LT. It lasted just long enough for me to try it on the trail, when it burped and lost all of its air.

    My rear is a Bontrager Jones ACX with a bontrager symmetrical rim strip, and it's held up 100% so far for about 2 months.

    Now, all of my spare bike parts are in deep storage, along with my Bontrager rim strip and compressor. I guess I have to wait until I buy a new house and move in before converting to tubeless.

  42. #2542
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    416
    Just got my tubular carbon 88s built up from light-bicycle after being impressed with the quality of the 29er wheels that I built up from them;

    Here's a pic in-case anyone is interested in what their other wheels look like;
    tubularfiran | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

  43. #2543
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,237
    I have a general question on the LB wide rims. I am currently using a wheelset with Stans original 29er rims...maybe 2nd generation. Tires are Schwalbe NN 2.25's. Bike is an Asylum (which is pretty much a Titus Racer X 29er). With this current setup I have pretty much maxed out my rear tire clearance....any wider and tires will be rubbing the stays. Will the wider LB rim change the actual tire width any or will it just "flatten" the tire profile providing more contact area?

    I was planning on building up a wheelset over the winter, but I better make sure I won't run into any tire clearance issues 1st.

    Thanks,
    Michael

  44. #2544
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SwintOrSlude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    23
    My experiences with wider rims show that the tire will be wider, not only have a more square profile.

    For example I gained about 2.5mm in width (0.1") when moving from a Mavic EN521 (21mm internal, normal "deep" bead) to a Flow EX (25.5mm internal, BST bead), on a Butcher SX tire (2.3" claimed width - actual more 2.35).

  45. #2545
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,237
    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Which Stans rims? Flows?
    Flows?.....I said they were "older" rims
    The rims are Stans ZTR 355's - Mike from Odd's & Endos's built them if that tells you hold old they are.

  46. #2546
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    330
    I've read this thread (ok skimmed some) with great interest.
    Does anyone have experience with rims or wheelsets from Yoeleo? Yoeleo - Bicycle - Carbon Bicycle - Bike - Carbon Bike

    Besides 30mm wide 29er rims, they also have 23mm wide road rims which I also am interested in.

    Yoeleo is also in Xiamen, it seems. I wonder if these web portals (yoeleo, light-bicycle, etc) are fronts for a smaller number of manufacturing facilities.

    Thoughts on yoeleo?

  47. #2547
    Always Learning
    Reputation: BruceBrown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    9,513
    Quote Originally Posted by KMan View Post
    Flows?.....I said they were "older" rims
    The rims are Stans ZTR 355's - Mike from Odd's & Endos's built them if that tells you hold old they are.
    Yes, moving to a rim with a wider inner rim width profile will indeed increase the width of the casing from a narrower rim (such as the 355's). All things being equal (your current tires) and switching to the wider LB AM rims, you will see casing width "expand" compared to the 355's. How much? Who knows? Maybe a mm or two or three.

  48. #2548
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    853
    delete

  49. #2549
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    853
    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    [URL="http://bontrager.com/model/02566"] The oddest thing about ordering those strips is they are sent in a "HUGE" cardboard box. Not sure why, but it's odd.

    BB
    They didn't want to crease them.

  50. #2550
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    255

    Tried to "Bortis Yelltzen" my cracked rim

    Took the steps documented by BY a couple pages back on fixing cracked rims. Only have a couple of rides on it but happy with the results thus far. Who knows how long it will last but worth a try.
    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Here is a link and a pic of the fix. If this works for the long term, I will have to buy Bortis a beer or two...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •