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  1. #7051
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    Quote Originally Posted by NazZaR View Post
    Hello guys.
    I heard that using carbon rims with aluminium/brass nipples/spokes can cause electrochemical corrosion, and weaken nipple holes in carbon rims. Is that true?
    See post 6914 onwards for the last question on this topic

    Short answer - use aluminium if you are entering a weight weenie competition and don't ride a bike, and if you photograph your bike more than you ride it - everyone else uses brass when they have a choice

  2. #7052
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    Quote Originally Posted by pharmaboy View Post
    See post 6914 onwards for the last question on this topic

    Short answer - use aluminium if you are entering a weight weenie competition and don't ride a bike, and if you photograph your bike more than you ride it - everyone else uses brass when they have a choice
    Thank you for answers, guys! Just wanted to be sure, so brass is the choice.
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  3. #7053
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    I have carbon wheels with both. In general, the brass are much less problematic.
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  4. #7054
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    Quote Originally Posted by pharmaboy View Post
    See post 6914 onwards for the last question on this topic

    Short answer - use aluminium if you are entering a weight weenie competition and don't ride a bike, and if you photograph your bike more than you ride it - everyone else uses brass when they have a choice
    What if I ride 200 miles/week on wheels with aluminum nipples?

    How does your crazy generalization fare then?



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  5. #7055
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    What if I ride 200 miles/week on wheels with aluminum nipples?
    How does your crazy generalization fare then?
    Then you are clearly in violation of Statute #7051 of MTBR law and shall: a) enter a weight weenie competition, b) stop riding your bike, and c) start taking more photographs of said bike than you ride it.

    We expect full compliance immediately!

    Thanks, MTBR Police.

  6. #7056
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    I had this happen to a one of my wheels, the front one. At first I thought I had broken a spoke but on closer inspection i saw that the nipple had disintegrated. Taking the wheel apart most of the of other nipples just disintegrated too. They were aluminum. Swapped them out with brass ones and no troubles. My LBS guy said he had never seen it before.
    I also didn't notice a difference in the weight, but I didn't weigh them.

  7. #7057
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    So I finally got around to repairing my cracked rim. I sanded the crack and made it even, then I used a 1/16 drill bit to drill a hole at the end of the crack and "difusse" the stresses to stop the crack from spreading. I have seen this being done on windshields so I believe it translates to carbon perfectly. The hole got filled with epoxy resin and sanded to an even finish.

    Even though I am somewhat confident it will work and hold, I am not 100% sure. I know this involves some risk only to save less than a couple hundreds bucks so I dont plan to ride it just yet. I have better plan that I think will take me off the equation in terms of risk and provide a very harsh test to the repaired rim. I have a full time job and missing work because of a sport related injury is not in the best of my interests. Here is where my dad comes into the equation. He recently started mountain biking about 1.5 years ago, he is 64 and weighs around 210 lbs. He is very strong and enjoys riding through rough stuff even though he is somewhat slow and his technique is unrefined. He drops down a curb like a sack of crap. He is also retired and just spends his days looking for stuff to do and bothering my mother. I plan on putting this wheel on his bike and letting him use it for 2 or 3 weeks. If it can take his abuse and stay true with no visible elongation of the crack, I am sure the wheel will hold up to my use no problem, I am 170 lbs. I am not going to tell him about the switch because I dont want any bias to change his riding style. He wouldnt notice his bike has something different even if I changed his frame. If I told him about my plan I am 100% sure he would go with it and help me out but I would be introducing some error into the experiment. I will let you guys know how this turns out.

    Cheers
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  8. #7058
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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    So I finally got around to repairing my cracked rim.
    Even though I am somewhat confident it will work and hold, I am not 100% sure. I know this involves some risk only to save less than a couple hundreds bucks so I dont plan to ride it just yet. I have better plan... I have a full time job and missing work because of a sport related injury is not in the best of my interests. Here is where my dad comes into the equation. He recently started mountain biking about 1.5 years ago, he is 64 and weighs around 210 lbs. I plan on putting this wheel on his bike and letting him use it for 2 or 3 weeks. I am not going to tell him about the switch because I dont want any bias to change his riding style.. I will let you guys know how this turns out.

    Cheers

    This sounds bad.
    I vote no.

  9. #7059
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    I really hope this doesn't turn into the first case of MTBR patricide. Please at least tell him about the wheel for crying out load... WTF? Hopefully he's a little smarter than you and won't ride that thing.

  10. #7060
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    If you absolutely insist on saving this wheel, at least call or contact someone who has a stake in carbon repair. May I suggest a quick email or phone call to these guys...

    http://calfeedesign.com/repair/

    At least you'll get some answers that mean something rather than just us chastising you for stabbing in the dark.

  11. #7061
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Wow!
    Abel, I have a feeling you are going to be really popular around here really soon.

    This probably deserves its own post.

    The story's got carbon, cracks, repairs, DIY, pictures, scheming, family members, lies... This could this summer's blockbuster!

    Can't wait for the ending!

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  12. #7062
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    Abel,

    I commend you for your honesty in telling the forum what you intend to do, but perhaps you could use that honesty in telling your father about your plans. He might just be fine with it. Frankly, I think your rim will not catastrophically fail outright while lolly-gagging on a trail. But don't you think safety is paramount - yours and his? That rim can be repaired by Calfee.

  13. #7063
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    I was going to let this go on till the end of the day before saying something but after reading the comments even I started feeling bad for my good ol dad!!Who by the way is not a cyclist and is not retired!

    Happy april 1st guys.

  14. #7064
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    Ha! Well done Abel.

  15. #7065
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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    I was going to let this go on till the end of the day before saying something but after reading the comments even I started feeling bad for my good ol dad!!Who by the way is not a cyclist and is not retired!

    Happy april 1st guys.
    Bravo well played
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  16. #7066
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    Damn. Fell for that, hook, line and sinker.

  17. #7067
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    Haha! Delete your comment and let it ride for a while longer!


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  18. #7068
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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    I was going to let this go on till the end of the day before saying something but after reading the comments even I started feeling bad for my good ol dad!!Who by the way is not a cyclist and is not retired!

    Happy april 1st guys.
    Y U durty dawg U !
    Ya got me goood there boy .










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  19. #7069
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    What if I ride 200 miles/week on wheels with aluminum nipples?

    How does your crazy generalization fare then?



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    Maybe you just simple?



    Or in denial......

  20. #7070
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    Ha, that's twice today for me.
    Well done.

  21. #7071
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    So are they worth it?

    I just got quoted from light-bicycle to have them lace their 38mm all mountain 29er rim with straight pull Pillar Aero X-TRA 1420 spokes to my beat to **** sun-ringle Hubs (They are from a set of Sun-Ringle Charger Pro's that have been destroyed by the korean 10" wide 3 foot deep **** ditches) for 433.00 USD plus another 49.70 to ship a full wheelset back to me. How is that price compared to me sourcing a local shop for spokes and labor?

  22. #7072
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael7383 View Post
    I just got quoted from light-bicycle to have them lace their 38mm all mountain 29er rim with straight pull Pillar Aero X-TRA 1420 spokes to my beat to **** sun-ringle Hubs (They are from a set of Sun-Ringle Charger Pro's that have been destroyed by the korean 10" wide 3 foot deep **** ditches) for 433.00 USD plus another 49.70 to ship a full wheelset back to me. How is that price compared to me sourcing a local shop for spokes and labor?
    Its a decent price other than the fact that you will end up with "beat to ****" hubs. The Novatec hubs on those websites are good and cheap.

  23. #7073
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    Agree with CC.

    Their price is good as they'll typically build your wheels for free, you only pay for parts you are buying from them. For less than $200 more you can get brand new everything from them. Plus you'll get it quicker since there's no waiting for your hubs to get to them.


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  24. #7074
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    As you get to $600 you are at the price of DT 350 hubs, Sapim Laser spokes and CB 36/30.8 rims all new for your own build.
    The stiff carbon rims are the easiest to build for a first timer.

  25. #7075
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    Thats good to know. The hubs are in good shape. But the rims front and rear wont true up and are dented up bad. I think I might have 300 miles on them. But riding in Korea is a test for anything.

  26. #7076
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    That's a great point. I might just have them send me a complete set and then build these hubs in to a super light weight set.

  27. #7077
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael7383 View Post
    Thats good to know. The hubs are in good shape. But the rims front and rear wont true up and are dented up bad. I think I might have 300 miles on them. But riding in Korea is a test for anything.
    It sounds like you need to run more pressure and/or a heavier tire. What are you doing now.
    I wouldn't think carbon rims are your only solution.

  28. #7078
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    Just received my new Onyx Racing Hubs in Glowing Yellow powder coat. Made in USA in Minnesota, Onyx got their start making BMX hubs using a "sprag clutch" all made from steel and they say its bulletproof. Sprag and Hybrid ceramic bearings are made in Germany.

    The Sprag clutch has infinite engagement so the sprags do not touch the hub shell until forward power given, totally silent with almost no drag. Only drawback is weight rear hub 442g and front 218g, but the low drag makes up for the weight penalty.

    Will be going on LB 38mm rims.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-p1060922.jpg  

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    Last edited by dgw7000; 04-05-2015 at 07:24 AM.

  29. #7079
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    Very nice, they look awesome. But what the hell matches with that color? ;-)

  30. #7080
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    Quote Originally Posted by fefillo View Post
    But what the hell matches with that color? ;-)
    A man purse.

  31. #7081
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    I think it will good on this!!
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  32. #7082
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    Well, that bike looks plenty good already, so that's kinda cheating.


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  33. #7083
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    They will see you coming from a mile away.
    Reminds me of the color of reflective safety vest.
    ​​
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  34. #7084
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    ^^^ Damn that is a good looking ride!

  35. #7085
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antikid View Post
    ^^^ Damn that is a good looking ride!
    Thanks for the complements!! The wheels on bike now are LB 30mm wide with Hadley hubs, Sapim laser spokes and nips with 4 red DT Swiss Aero lights at valve stem and Sapim stainless steal cupped washers. My builder likes using the washers on carbon rims and adds about 4 g weight/per wheel. I will use these for race day wheels with some lighter tires.

    The new 38mm LB rims with the Onyx hubs will be my every day hoops. Wheel set will add some weight and like someone said see me coming with Anti Freeze translucent hubs but not here me coming since they make zero noise. I will probably do the same spoke/nipple combo. I do love this new Pivot 429SL 29er, great bike!!

  36. #7086
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    It sounds like you need to run more pressure and/or a heavier tire. What are you doing now.
    I wouldn't think carbon rims are your only solution.
    No, the riding conditions I find myself in are sometimes less than optimal

  37. #7087
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    Guys

    As my first Carbon rims are on it's way (38mm LB) and i plan for the firs time go tubeless.
    My question would be to You to advise me what kind of Tubes should i use to take most benefits from hookless/tubeless technology.

    Let's narrow the choice to

    Mountain King II (29x2.4)
    Continental Bicycle -Mountain King II

    Trail King (29x2.4)
    Continental Bicycle -Trail King

    I'm not reffering to knobs,acceleration etc .
    Are different types mean only better sidewall protection and weight difference or maybe some type is "designed" for hookless wide rims?

    My example was using Conti but i'm also considering Maxxis and Schwalbe.

  38. #7088
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    Quote Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    Guys

    As my first Carbon rims are on it's way (38mm LB) and i plan for the firs time go tubeless.
    My question would be to You to advise me what kind of Tubes should i use to take most benefits from hookless/tubeless technology.

    Let's narrow the choice to

    Mountain King II (29x2.4)
    Continental Bicycle -Mountain King II

    Trail King (29x2.4)
    Continental Bicycle -Trail King

    I'm not reffering to knobs,acceleration etc .
    Are different types mean only better sidewall protection and weight difference or maybe some type is "designed" for hookless wide rims?

    My example was using Conti but i'm also considering Maxxis and Schwalbe.

    I assume you mean what kind of tyres not tubes when going tubeless yes ?

    Ahhh the black (pun intended) art of tyre choice. It is indeed a very personal choice.What works for one may not work for another. You could ride the exact same bike as your twin brother who is exactly the same size /weight as you. Yet he may "feel" safer/more confident on one tyre at a certain pressure than you and therefore able to ride quicker. Does that mean the tyre he chose is better than the one you chose? Even though you feel just as confident ?

    It all depends on the type of terrain you're going to be riding , your riding weight and style.

    If you are light weight , "ride light" and not too aggressive you could quite easily get away with a lighter weight tyre.
    i.e. thinner sidewall and not quite as chunky tread.

    As a general rule at the same pressure and type of tyre (width and tread pattern) on the same rim/wheel a thinner sidewalled tyre will give better traction and less rolling resistance (this difference in reality is probably miniscule and may only be noticed by pros or experienced riders YOMV)

    If you ride terrain with lots of rocks or sharp branches you may want to consider a thicker sidewall. This would usually provide increased resistance to cuts to the sidewall by the rocks / branches. It doesn't guarantee against punctures rather it decreases the chance of one through the sidewall.

    A thicker sidewall would also give greater support to the tyre so you could run at a slightly lower pressure (maybe 1-3psi less) this would possibly give better traction/ handling in some conditions.

    Some tyres are designed to work tubeless better than others they usually contain the phrase "tubless ready" or "compatible" in the name/discription. Don't get too hung up on tubless ready/compatible though as it seems to be a crap shoot as to which tyres work best with certain rims. Even to the point of different batch numbers of the same tyre being more diffucult to set up than others. (this is usually on first runs of new tyre patterns though, before the production run settles down) . Tubeless compatible, or the like tyres, tend to have thicker casings so they leak less air .Some have small "skirts" on the edge of the bead to provide a better seal so again they leak less. Generally they are slightly heavier than a "non" tubless compatible tyre.

    Give us a little a little info on rider weight /skill level/terrain etc so we can help out more.

    This is a massive generalisation but what I have gleaned from the the internets . On the whole Schwalbe tend to be slightly more expensive and more fragile than Continental. They also seem to give better traction and are lighter for a given carcas size. Ya pays ya money n makes ya choice

    Obviously these are my personal opinions and are much like a$$hole$ everbody has one. Ask ten people you'll get ten opinions all contradicting at least one aspect of each others argument

    Fat Biker

  39. #7089
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    And right now because of the dollar euro rate Schwalbe and Continental tires are cheap on some of the German sites. Shop around.


    "....maybe some type is "designed" for hookless wide rims?"

    No tires are designed for hookless. I haven't had any problems.
    Last edited by eb1888; 04-04-2015 at 12:05 PM.

  40. #7090
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    Does anyone other than Derby offer a 35mm rim with an internal, bead-locking ridge yet?

    I've seen some 30mm, 40mm and 50mm rims from Nextie. 30mm would be nice, but want just a hair wider.
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  41. #7091
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Does anyone other than Derby offer a 35mm rim with an internal, bead-locking ridge yet?

    I've seen some 30mm, 40mm and 50mm rims from Nextie. 30mm would be nice, but want just a hair wider.
    Don't quote me here but I thought Light Bicycle had built a bead lock into their new 36mm rim ?


    Fat Biker
    Last edited by Fat Biker; 04-04-2015 at 11:53 AM. Reason: Sorry Carbon Bicycle not Light Bicycle

  42. #7092
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    Fat Biker

    Bike will be Banshee Prime, my weight 180lbs, terrain AM/Enduro with many rocks and roots.

    My only one question was:

    If i'm gonna to use tubeless system and hoookless rims than shoould i consider any special type/variety of tire or i coan choose Sport/Performance/Race Sport and depending on my choice bother only about factors like sidewalls protection, durability and weight?


    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    I assume you mean what kind of tyres not tubes when going tubeless yes ?

    It all depends on the type of terrain you're going to be riding , your riding weight and style.

    If you are light weight , "ride light" and not too aggressive you could quite easily get away with a lighter weight tyre.
    i.e. thinner sidewall and not quite as chunky tread.

  43. #7093
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    My builder likes using the washers on carbon rims
    Does he use standard (flat) washers or something made specifically for rims?
    Is there any reason for that? It's not a common things to do. If anything a washer can create unnecessary stress or a rim that was designed and drilled for direct nipple interface.

  44. #7094
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    Quote Originally Posted by PauLCa916 View Post
    They will see you coming from a mile away.
    Reminds me of the color of reflective safety vest.
    Hopefully because they won't hear a thing.

    As much as I like those hubs, the silence is one reason I opted to skip them. On multi use trails it's kind of nice to have loads hubs.
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  45. #7095
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrozCountry View Post
    Does he use standard (flat) washers or something made specifically for rims?
    Is there any reason for that? It's not a common things to do. If anything a washer can create unnecessary stress or a rim that was designed and drilled for direct nipple interface.
    Interesting.
    Can you elaborate on any specifics of the unnecessary stresses created by the use of washers?
    I knew the use of washers was not the norm, I'd never heard it created stress. I'd always thought they help distribute stress over a slightly larger area.

  46. #7096
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    I don't know about the stress, but washers can be used to combat galvanic corrosion when pairing carbon rims with aluminum nipples.

  47. #7097
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimitrin View Post
    Interesting.
    Can you elaborate on any specifics of the unnecessary stresses created by the use of washers?
    I knew the use of washers was not the norm, I'd never heard it created stress. I'd always thought they help distribute stress over a slightly larger area.
    If the washer does not have the exact shape of the rim internal it creates stress on the small area where the washer and the rim touch. Especially if most of the force is transferred around the corners of the washer, which is what you would expect if you are using flat, hardware store washers. They will never bend to the exact shape of the rim.

  48. #7098
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    I don't know about the stress, but washers can be used to combat galvanic corrosion when pairing carbon rims with aluminum nipples.
    In theory washers might prevent corrosion, but that theory is not proven and I think it is wrong.

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  49. #7099
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    My wheel builder said it all depends on what carbon rim he is building whether or not to use the Sapim Round PolyAx HM cupped washers. Bag of 20 $2.95, 4to5 g weight/per 32 hole. Some manufactures do not recommend using the washers. They add about 1.4mm to ERD of the rim. Washer's are greases both sides allowing nipple "Sapim Polyax" to turn more freely and seat with less deformation of spoke hole.

    He also said he didn't know if the washers will help with corrosion, he did switch for Stans juice to Bontrager TLR sealant zero ammonia. They also now use Lilly Percision Nipples, Jason Lilly the owner individually Anodizes each nipple each nipple to any color they say they match Chris King ano perfectly. Chris King uses Lilly nips in all of their builds, NOX also will use Lilly nips if requested. I have seen a sample of all Lilly nips, the color and finish of nips are bright and beautiful. I have been using Lilly Lube for about 6 month now, its my favorite chain lube. If you search for Lilly Percision Nipples you will not find any info, he sells only to custom builders and shops. My new wheels will have Lilly Nips!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-p1060841.jpg  

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-p1060845.jpg  


  50. #7100
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    My wheel builder said it all depends on what carbon rim he is building whether or not to use the Sapim Round PolyAx HM cupped washers. Bag of 20 $2.95, 4to5 g weight/per 32 hole. Some manufactures do not recommend using the washers. They add about 1.4mm to ERD of the rim. Washer's are greases both sides allowing nipple "Sapim Polyax" to turn more freely and seat with less deformation of spoke hole.
    Ah those. I believe they are for allowing the spoke to exit in an angle directly towards the hub flange, and not straight out and then bend. So the spoke will have no bend.

    Anyone else using something like that?

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