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  1. #3376
    trail shredder
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    sorry about your rim. I don't know if this is applicable for a big crack like that, but you can try to use the rim repair method that was mentioned before:
    quote: "bandaid" method for rim repair.
    1. Remove the tire and rim strip/rim tape. Clean off any residual sealant with soapy water.
    2. Sand down the impacted area with a ~300 grit sandpaper. Get rid of some of the loose splinters of carbon and get a good look at what you are dealing with. Don't over sand things
    3. Clean the sanded areas well, blow out all sanding debris with clean, dry compressed air, and then hose it down with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Let the IPA flash off.
    4. Look for delaminations, if you can push on the impact site and see layers moving around, that is a delamination. I used a thin pointy scribe to open up the delam's and squirt in a good low viscosity super glue, avoid the thick stuff, you want this to run and flow into the delaminations. I pressed things together after this with my fingers and the scribe (with nitrile gloves on) while the superglue was still wet to work the glue into the damaged area I then let this dry for about 10 minutes.
    5. Resand the impacted area you just super glued again with a ~300 grit sandpaper. You need to abraid the surface so the next layer of adhesive has something to hold onto.
    6. Blow out the sanding debris with clean, dry air, hose it down with IPA and let if flash off.
    7. Mix up a small amount of epoxy/adhesive, I prefer something that has a 60-90 minute working time so I can do steps 8-10 a couple times with the same batch of mixed adhesive, but can have the cure accelerated with a little heat if desired as well.
    8. I used teflon tape and teflon release film to make a little flap I could cover the entire impact area with, then applied the adhesive, put the flap over the area and tried to make it smooth and wrinkle free
    9. I then clamped a flexibly sheet of silicon rubber over the impact area, set it in front of a hot halogen lamp for 30 minutes to mostly cure the adhesive.
    10. Remove clamp, remove the silicon rubber, peel open teflon flap, look to see if the adhesive flowed into the impact and needs a little more applied. If no more is needed, move on, if more is needed, repeat steps 5-9 with another thin coat.
    11. Let adhesive cure at least overnight, or under the heat lamp for another hour or so. Be careful not to use too hot of a lamp, most epoxy resins have a glass transition temperature (Tg) in the 250-300F range, and you could damage the rim if you get hotter than this for prolonged periods of time. Keep it in the 125-150F range ideally. You should be able to hold a finger on the rim under the heat lamp for 3-5 seconds without burning yourself, or use a digital meat thermometer, etc... to see where you are at.
    12. Sand as much excess adhesive away, Start with 300-grit and work your way down to 600 or 1000 grit to make it pretty, but use caution not to sand into the carbon surrounding the impact area. Too thick of a patch is more likely to crack and fail than a nice thin layer.
    13. Ride and report back. Get enough people trying these bandaids and we can refine things.
    And keep in mind, these are bandaid solutions. They require you to keep an eye on them, and may need to be redone if the bond is too thick and cracks. And sometimes bandaids can't fix things "good enough".
    -like I said, I don't know if this will work for a crack that big, but its worth a try
    my carbon footprint has cleats

  2. #3377
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    Yeah, I forgot to mention that, I was running tubeless. I usually tried to keep the rear at 24 psi. Weighing less than 145 lbs geared up I figured that would be plenty. Like I said though I do ride aggressively, I tend to seek out the toughest and most technical route down the mtn.
    I gave the rest of the rim, and the front rim, a relatively thorough inspection and I saw no other signs of cracking.
    I'll send Nancy (or should I send Brian?) an email when I get chance seeing if there is anything they can do. If not I will certainly give the bandaid method try. Thanks btw, xc biker, I very much appreciate it. Part of me wants to just say screw it and ride it like it is until it fails... That's undoubtedly a recipe for disaster, but I don't think it happened on my last ride which has quite a few large drops and rocky sections. So who knows how long it will last. Even with the crack the rim is just as true as the day I got it.
    I will make sure to keep you guys updated on what I decide to do.

  3. #3378
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeZee View Post
    Xiamen BECS Carbon Fiber Parts Industry Co., Ltd

    Same company

    They refuned my $$ minus shipping.
    BECS Xiamen and light-bicycle are two completely different companies. You need to check on this before reporting bad information. However, Nancy that works at light-bicycle now did work for BECS last year before moving to light- bicycle.

    Those of you that have dealt with Chinese companies in the past, know that similar industries are often located in the same area. It is not unusuall to find an entire town devoted to manufacturing doors........several different companies, sometimes in the same building.
    Last edited by Atomik Carbon; 03-07-2013 at 06:19 AM. Reason: add info

  4. #3379
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    Quote Originally Posted by YaMon View Post
    BECS Xiamen and light-bicycle are two completely different companies. You need to check on this before reporting bad information. However, Nancy that works at light-bicycle now did work for BECS last year before moving to light- bicycle.

    Those of you that have dealt with Chinese companies in the past, know that similar industries are often located in the same area. It is not unusuall to find an entire town devoted to manufacturing doors........several different companies, sometimes in the same building.
    +1 this is truth.

  5. #3380
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    Quote Originally Posted by YaMon View Post
    It is not unusuall to find an entire town devoted to manufacturing doors........several different companies, sometimes in the same building.
    Not too mention several wholesale/trading companies located in the same office building/office park.

  6. #3381
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    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Not too mention several wholesale/trading companies located in the same office building/office park.
    Yes, it is important to actually visit the factory if you are going to place a big order. Sometimes they show a big factory on the brochure and when you go to check them out you find they are middlemen with a warehouse.....


    I actually have a friend that lives in Shanghai and have asked them to check to see if light- bicycle is an actual manufacturer. I will post my finding when they check.......
    Last edited by Atomik Carbon; 03-08-2013 at 08:13 AM. Reason: Add info

  7. #3382
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    Quote Originally Posted by YaMon View Post
    What have you got to lose??????call them.
    ... and failing that, repair them. Do a search on how to repair carbon fiber parts. There was somebody here who fixed their rims. IIRC, it was pretty easy. That's one of the nice things about carbon stuff. Not sure I would try it with bars or a road bike fork, but I would do a rim.

  8. #3383
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    Does anybody in the states have ONE new wide rim they'd like to sell ? PM me if you do. thanks !

    32 HOLE BTW !
    Last edited by 92gli; 03-08-2013 at 01:05 PM.

  9. #3384
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Does anybody in the states have ONE new wide rim they'd like to sell ? PM me if you do. thanks !


    How many spoke holes?

  10. #3385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez View Post
    For the sake of levity, I've never burped a Tubeless Ready tire while using a Bontrager rim strip.
    Ditto...

  11. #3386
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    Looks like it's a no go on the warranty, just as expected, they offered a replacement rim at full price... I'll try the "bandaid" method here in a few days when I get a chance. I'm hoping that works. I just a killer offer on a Norco Range Killer B so I'm trying to get this bike up for sale as soon as possible but I don't want to do so with miss matching wheels. Last time I was about to sell this bike I tacoed the front wheel, I'm not liking this trend.

  12. #3387
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikrc10 View Post
    Looks like it's a no go on the warranty, just as expected, they offered a replacement rim at full price... I'll try the "bandaid" method here in a few days when I get a chance. I'm hoping that works. I just a killer offer on a Norco Range Killer B so I'm trying to get this bike up for sale as soon as possible but I don't want to do so with miss matching wheels. Last time I was about to sell this bike I tacoed the front wheel, I'm not liking this trend.
    I'm sure you'll mention the band aid when you sell.
    13 Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  13. #3388
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    I'm sure you'll mention the band aid when you sell.
    Yes, I most certainly will. I also plan to include the original rear that came with the bike. I'll make sure to get a few rides on it first to see how it holds up before I put it up for sale. But I will clearly state the crack in the rim.

  14. #3389
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    Ton's of products are made in China, it just sucks when they don't live up to expectations and qc standards. Erickrc10, thanks for giving us a head up!

  15. #3390
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    Quote Originally Posted by devintl View Post
    Ton's of products are made in China, it just sucks when they don't live up to expectations and qc standards. Erickrc10, thanks for giving us a head up!
    If you want replacement with no questions asked, then buy Enve at $900 each. I don't know the op and he did to indicate what pressure he was running, but if you take a close look at the damage it was caused by an impact. The sidewall is pushed in.....it absolutely blows my mind when some of the guys on this forum are running less than 25 pounds of pressure. What do you expect ? I run mine 25-30 and have not had anyproblems. I also weight 160 pounds. It would be interesting to know what the op runs....

    Also, try getting raceface and crook brothers to warranty anything......

  16. #3391
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    My first post. I've been lurking for a while and was interested in these rims from LB. I actually read every post before deciding to give these a try. I just received my AM 29 rims in the 3K finish. Rims only, and not the wide version. They arrived the other day and they were visually perfect. weights were 368 and 370. I was very happy with that. I gave them to my wheel builder. These are the first LB carbon wheels he has built. He said these were very true and spoke tension was perfectly even all the way around.

    I know nothing about building wheels, but he was very impressed. The build was with DT Swiss 240s hubs, DT Swiss Competition spokes, and DT Swiss brass nipples. (To avoid the potential for corrosion I read about). The total weight for the rear wheel was 854g. I could have used lighter spokes and nipples, but my builder recommended these and said the rims would be able to handle just about anything. He still has the front wheel. I'll post the weight when I get it back. My guess is it will be 750g because the only difference is the hub. The front is about 100g lighter. So the entire wheelset will be about 1600g. Could be lighter, but I weigh 200 lbs and didn't want to push it. This will save me about 526g off my factory set on my 2012 Scott Scale Expert (Hardtail).

    My experience with LB was exceptional during every step. I always chose to communicate via the live chat option on the website during their working hours. It was very easy.

    I can't wait to ride on them. I was able to set them up tubeless using the Bontrager rim strip and Racing Ralphs with Stans liquid. They sealed up with my floor pump, which I have never been able to do with my old rims. I heard the satisfying pops when I was inflating to know the beads had locked into place.

    If my experience and product is normal, I can say don't hesitate. These things are awesome. I'll post again after I get a few miles on them.

    Jason
    Last edited by jbone619; 03-09-2013 at 08:47 PM.

  17. #3392
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    I've been on my set (Hyperlefty, Powertap, Cx-rays and american classic alu nipples) since early 2012 and thru have been perfect.

    Did a full check this winter and all was as it was when I built them, no nipple corrosion and all spokes up to tension. Few minor scratches from rock or other things hitting them. I've been so impressed I've ordered a second pair for my enduro bike, this time the reinforced model.

    Any rim can be damaged easily, just ride it against a sharp object at speed with low tire pressure, so that kind of damage has never been a measure of quality for me. Some issues around spoke holes as mentioned earlier in the thread was a worry for me, unfounded in my case.

  18. #3393
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    Quote Originally Posted by devintl View Post
    Ton's of products are made in China, it just sucks when they don't live up to expectations and qc standards. Erickrc10, thanks for giving us a head up!
    Like YaMon said, this is not really a quality control issue. The crack was pretty clearly caused by me which is why I am not upset by them not warrantying the rim. If the crack occurred along the seem then it might be a different story but you can clearly see where the seem is and that's not it. I'm not really sure what I expected though, I've dented most rear wheels I've owned. Next time I buy new wheels in gonna pony up for a set of i9s (not that they won't dent, I'm just thinking out loud).
    I would still whole heartedly recommend LB rims, just not if you are an aggressive rider that encounters a lot of rocks.

  19. #3394
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikrc10 View Post
    Like YaMon said, this is not really a quality control issue. The crack was pretty clearly caused by me which is why I am not upset by them not warrantying the rim. If the crack occurred along the seem then it might be a different story but you can clearly see where the seem is and that's not it. I'm not really sure what I expected though, I've dented most rear wheels I've owned. Next time I buy new wheels in gonna pony up for a set of i9s (not that they won't dent, I'm just thinking out loud).
    I would still whole heartedly recommend LB rims, just not if you are an aggressive rider that encounters a lot of rocks.
    Thanks Erikrc10 for clearing that up. I have a set that is at 30 pounds right now. I am 160 pounds in weight. Knowing what happens to carbon when it hits a sharp/solid ibject, I don't think I will be running pressures below 25. I also ride mostly in Florida, it would be a different situation if I rode where there were lots of rocks. One place here I have to be very careful of is the G-Outs we have on many of our trails due to it's mining history. Very steep 20-30 foot drops with a similarly steep incline after bottoming out. Puts a tremendous amount of pressure on the wheels, but FUN!!!
    Last edited by Atomik Carbon; 03-10-2013 at 09:30 PM.

  20. #3395
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    I had a bad experience with LB for wheels and a 29er frame, and would like to avoid them. Anyone with good experience with another similar manufacturer/seller of cheap carbon 29er wheels?
    Thanks
    Giant Team Bike & Bean-Marin Co., CA

    https://www.facebook.com/GiantBikeandBean

  21. #3396
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    Quote Originally Posted by YaMon View Post
    Thanks Erikrc10 for clearing that up. I have a set that is at 30 pounds right now. I am 160 pounds in weight. Knowing what happens to carbon when it hits a sharp/solid ibject, I don't think I will be running pressures below 25. I also ride mostly in Florida, it would be a different situation if I rode where there were lots of rocks. One place here I have to be very careful of is the G-Outs we have on many of our trails due to it's mining history. Very steep 20-30 foot drops with a similarly steep incline after bottoming out. Puts a tremendous amount of pressure on the wheels, but FUN!!!
    just FYI, Im 165lbs and live in Austin. Our trails have a lot of limestone rocks with trail names like "cheesegrater". I run my LB rims at 20 psi and havent had any problems (yet). My cranks are beat to hell, bash ring is gouged, bottom bracket took some nasty hits until I put a protector on it, the wheels are definitely heavily scratched but no cracks in 7 months of riding about 30 miles/week.

  22. #3397
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    I just ordered a pair of wheels for LB today. Wide 29", 3k gloss, 32 spoke D881/D882 with 15mm front / 10mm rear thru axles. Black hubs, spokes and nipples.

    15 day lead time. I'll post up some weights and pictures when they arrive.

  23. #3398
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    I am running them on my 29er race bike with 0 issues at 190lbs and hard aggressive riding / jumps / rocks over 1500km including riding a blue DH trail and riding with a bunch of spokes hand tight at one point.

    Their 88mms on my track/street bike all winter with no issues for 950km of city riding / curb drops / pothole smashes.

    Just received 38mm road wheels for my CX bike.

    Am discussing extra strong 26" DH wheels with Brian right now to run on my Kona Operator DH which I ride on lift access DH trails

    No issues yet, I have had some rim smashes on them that would of destroyed my old Stans Crest wheels without a doubt.

  24. #3399
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    Anyone have difficulty with the Bontrager valve in these rims? I've been on another set of this combo (LB rim/Bontrager strip/valve) for months and they have been flawless, including the tubeless set-up. Doing some new ones, and they are leaky at the valve-hole like crazy. Not sure what's going on. Tried a layer of gorilla tape just over the valve hole and couple inches either way from it, then the strip back over it. Didn't seem to help. Anyone else have similar issues and come upon a solution. Thinking about trying a Stans valve as the next step.

  25. #3400
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwitte View Post
    Anyone have difficulty with the Bontrager valve in these rims? I've been on another set of this combo (LB rim/Bontrager strip/valve) for months and they have been flawless, including the tubeless set-up. Doing some new ones, and they are leaky at the valve-hole like crazy. Not sure what's going on. Tried a layer of gorilla tape just over the valve hole and couple inches either way from it, then the strip back over it. Didn't seem to help. Anyone else have similar issues and come upon a solution. Thinking about trying a Stans valve as the next step.
    Yeah I had problems with the Bontrager valves sealing. Nothing I did seemed to get them to stop leaking. Switched to Stans valves and everything sealed right up.

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