Page 132 of 163 FirstFirst ... 3282122128129130131132133134135136142 ... LastLast
Results 6,551 to 6,600 of 8113
  1. #6551
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    9,922
    Quote Originally Posted by BartP View Post
    Im not sure to go with the 27/22 or 30/24mm rims for my rigid HT. I prefer the 2.2 Ikons and the 2.1 RR and Thunder Burt tires. Weight is not an issue just curious how my rather narrow tires wil handle the 30/24 rim.
    Thunder Burt will be a little wider in one 2015 model. 2.2 XR1 Team Bontragers work very well on my 35/30mm.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-cb35.30rimxr1.jpg
    Not that wide.

  2. #6552
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by BartP View Post
    Im not sure to go with the 27/22 or 30/24mm rims for my rigid HT. I prefer the 2.2 Ikons and the 2.1 RR and Thunder Burt tires. Weight is not an issue just curious how my rather narrow tires wil handle the 30/24 rim.
    Yeah, I would say go for the wider ones too, the reasons being:

    1. I wouldn't call 2.2 Ikons narrow by any stretch of the imagination. If you said you were running 1.9 or 2.0 then that would be a bit different.

    2. Both the Ikon, the RR, and the TB have a fairly round profile with evenly distributed small knobs. This will prevent the "edgy" feeling that an already square is profile tire can generate when you make it even more square with a wide rim.

    3. Evenly distributed small knob tires seem to benefit even more from low pressures than more aggressive, big knobbed tires, IMHO, so assuming wider rims allow you to run lower pressure, then you have even more to gain.

    4. Based on the specs, the 30/24 LB rims have an extra .5mm sidewall thickness above what their other models offer which should make them more durable on rock strikes, all else being equal.

    I hope that helps!

  3. #6553
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by jlian View Post

    LB is starting to make 38mm outer 29er rims in a few weeks. Here is the profile for anyone interested:

    Attachment 942032
    Thanks for posting this, I hadn't heard about these yet! They look like they could be a sweet option for those "wider is better" folks, particularly those who ride in rocky areas. Stating the obvious, when compared to the 35-30 rim they only gain 1.6mm of ID, with most of the additional width coming not from the ID but from increased sidewall thickness. These things have around .8mm of additional material in the most vulnerable rock strike zone, which seems like it could be good.

    Also, from the profile, they appear to have a bead "hump" on the inner bead seat area, which should help with burping, although I would want to see this in person as other LB rims have shown variations on this in the blueprint but it doesn't seem to make it through to production on some.

    A lot of these characteristics are reminiscent of Derby's rims, although they don't look like direct knockoffs, which is good, and the dimensions slot in right in the middle of Derby's offerings.

    Did they give you any weight figures???

  4. #6554
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    93
    Quote Originally Posted by TheKaiser View Post

    A lot of these characteristics are reminiscent of Derby's rims, although they don't look like direct knockoffs, which is good, and the dimensions slot in right in the middle of Derby's offerings.

    Did they give you any weight figures???

    The weight info from LB is "around 430g+/-15 standard version, and 480g+/-15 for dh riding version". The 430g number looks to be not quite right as its 35/30 rim is spec'ed at 420g+/-15. As it is still pre-production, I don't count them as the final numbers.

    There is also the following reply to a recent question on LB's 29er rim page:
    35mm wide 29er rims beadless for bicycle trail or mountain bike enduro with tubeless compatibility Light-Bicycle

    Currently, we have started the rim mold of new hookless 38mm wide 29er rims. It is ok to work with 3.0’’ tyres. Do you like? Attached is the rim cross-section drawing.
    RM29C14 (38mm wide 29er AM rim) hookless: USD185/pcs
    RM29C14 (38mm wide 29er DH rim) hookless: USD193/pcs

    I would have gone with LB 35/30 rims for my 29er wheels (I built my first set for 27.5 using the same 35/30 width rims). This new rims would seem to be stronger with thicker side walls.

  5. #6555
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    36
    Thanks for the advice guys! Only hardpack here. Decided to get 2 pcs of the 27/22mm rim and 1x 30/24. Wil start to build the 27/22 set and use the other rim for a spare or extra front wheel later on. My first rigid build so not sure what to expect

  6. #6556
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    72
    Quote Originally Posted by jlian View Post
    The weight info from LB is "around 430g+/-15 standard version, and 480g+/-15 for dh riding version". The 430g number looks to be not quite right as its 35/30 rim is spec'ed at 420g+/-15. As it is still pre-production, I don't count them as the final numbers.
    Yeah, that does look a little light considering that they are both wider and have greater sidewall thickness.

    Hopefully they didn't try to remove any weight from the spoke bed to compensate!

  7. #6557
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    220
    Quote Originally Posted by TheKaiser View Post
    Thanks for posting this, I hadn't heard about these yet! They look like they could be a sweet option for those "wider is better" folks, particularly those who ride in rocky areas.
    They are 32mm deep also, which is 12mm over their original and 7mm over their current wide 29 wide. Which means shorter spokes and stiffer wheel.

    Damnit , now want to replace my originals with these . Pair these up with Novatec D541/D542 or Factor hubs which have tall flanges you will have some stiff wheels. Won't be light though .

  8. #6558
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    651
    Just ordered a pair of hookless 24mm inner 30mm outer rims and a pair of 30mm inner and 35mm outer rims from light bike. The 35mm are going to be matte 3k weave with orange decals like my original set from last year so with the little extra work they estimate a 9 day lead time.

    I'll be using Orange Industry Nine Torch Hubs, half orange and half black Sapim Cx-Ray spokes and Half orange half black Alloy nipples.

  9. #6559
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    982
    I have the 35/30's now from carbonbicycle.cc (seem to be exactly the same as the LB ones) I really don't think I need anymore width but some sidewall thickness and a "bead hump" would be some nice extra security.

  10. #6560
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    9,922
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    Just ordered a pair of hookless 24mm inner 30mm outer rims and a pair of 30mm inner and 35mm outer rims from light bike. The 35mm are going to be matte 3k weave with orange decals like my original set from last year so with the little extra work they estimate a 9 day lead time.

    I'll be using Orange Industry Nine Torch Hubs, half orange and half black Sapim Cx-Ray spokes and Half orange half black Alloy nipples.
    Sound good...and...colorful. I'd like to see the pics, but I will not build carbon with aluminum nips because of galvanic corrosion.

  11. #6561
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    651
    Well here's my original wider hooked rims from last year and the new ones will basically look the same except for the wider rims and giant pinecone of an 11speed cassette.
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-0f02ccbc-6416-49ba-a10c-aceebbefe37f_zpsmfgc9brb.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-98a40356-260e-4fe1-92e4-6c723ffd67ad_zpsbdeplpc2.jpg

  12. #6562
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,880
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    Well here's my original wider hooked rims from last year and the new ones will basically look the same except for the wider rims and giant pinecone of an 11speed cassette.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	0F02CCBC-6416-49BA-A10C-ACEEBBEFE37F_zpsmfgc9brb.jpg 
Views:	245 
Size:	136.4 KB 
ID:	943959

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	98A40356-260E-4FE1-92E4-6C723FFD67AD_zpsbdeplpc2.jpg 
Views:	282 
Size:	145.3 KB 
ID:	943958
    Sweet

  13. #6563
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    4,511
    When I select the XC rim you can choose "cross country" or "all mountain", which gives you a different price than selecting "all mountain" rim to begin with. What's the difference? An extra layer of carbon? Why does it cost more than the all mountain rim that probably has more carbon than the XC rim to begin with?

  14. #6564
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    38

    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    When I select the XC rim you can choose "cross country" or "all mountain", which gives you a different price than selecting "all mountain" rim to begin with. What's the difference? An extra layer of carbon? Why does it cost more than the all mountain rim that probably has more carbon than the XC rim to begin with?
    E-mail them and ask. LB is actually quite responsive and helpful via e-mail.

  15. #6565
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    4,511
    They were not helpful. They didn't seem to understand the question, even with screenshots.

  16. #6566
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    204

    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    When I select the XC rim you can choose "cross country" or "all mountain", which gives you a different price than selecting "all mountain" rim to begin with. What's the difference? An extra layer of carbon? Why does it cost more than the all mountain rim that probably has more carbon than the XC rim to begin with?
    The XC rim is the 27 mm outside width/ 22 mm inside width rim. They offer that rim in "cross country" weight (~360g) and "all mountain" weight (~390g) with some added carbon for extra strength. The All Mountain rim is a wider rim.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  17. #6567
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    38
    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    They were not helpful. They didn't seem to understand the question, even with screenshots.
    That's unfortunate. I had the exact opposite experience with them. They quickly replied to all of my questions (as a mechanical engineer, I had a few...) with solid information. Who from LB replied to your inquiries?

  18. #6568
    mtbr member
    Reputation: J273's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    317
    Without reading the whole thread. Has anyone had a set of LB and nextie rims side by side? are they pretty much the same and would you say they are from the same factory?

    Is one rim better quality than the other?

  19. #6569
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    14
    Hi,
    Going to get a pair of LB 27 mm carbon rims for my new Lynskey Pro29...
    How good is their standard build with Hope hubs? Would I need to send them to my wheelbuilder to tension or can I just use them as they arrive?
    Or is it definitely better to just take the rims and have them laced here?
    I'm 150 lbs and will run 2.2 Race Kings tubeless...
    Thanks!

  20. #6570
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    5,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Lore View Post
    Hi,
    Going to get a pair of LB 27 mm carbon rims for my new Lynskey Pro29...
    How good is their standard build with Hope hubs? Would I need to send them to my wheelbuilder to tension or can I just use them as they arrive?
    Or is it definitely better to just take the rims and have them laced here?
    I'm 150 lbs and will run 2.2 Race Kings tubeless...
    Thanks!
    I would personally have them laced with a local builder, but that's me.
    Ibis Mojo 3
    Carver 420 TI
    Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  21. #6571
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    220
    Quote Originally Posted by Lore View Post
    Hi,
    Going to get a pair of LB 27 mm carbon rims for my new Lynskey Pro29...
    How good is their standard build with Hope hubs? Would I need to send them to my wheelbuilder to tension or can I just use them as they arrive?
    Or is it definitely better to just take the rims and have them laced here?
    I'm 150 lbs and will run 2.2 Race Kings tubeless...
    Thanks!
    They are not very good at building wheels . Spokes on my set of 29ers from them where 5mm too long and had to buy new spokes and get them rebuilt. Also had issues with aluminum nipples and massive corrosion after 6 months. I would just buy the rims then go find a good wheel builder and get them built using brass nipples.

  22. #6572
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SDMTB'er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    761

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Here is my Pivot M6 with new LB wheels. I purchased the hubs separately and had my LBS set them up tubeless.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1417993290.422068.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1417993302.318390.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1417993313.919275.jpg

  23. #6573
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,023
    Quote Originally Posted by SDMTB'er View Post
    Here is my Pivot M6 with new LB wheels. I purchased the hubs separately and had my LBS set them up tubeless.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417993290.422068.jpg 
Views:	271 
Size:	234.3 KB 
ID:	944907

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417993302.318390.jpg 
Views:	217 
Size:	240.7 KB 
ID:	944908

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417993313.919275.jpg 
Views:	220 
Size:	270.4 KB 
ID:	944909
    What weave are those?
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  24. #6574
    mtbr member
    Reputation: SDMTB'er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    761

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Lenny7 View Post
    What weave are those?
    The 12k

  25. #6575
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by In2falling View Post
    They are not very good at building wheels . Spokes on my set of 29ers from them where 5mm too long and had to buy new spokes and get them rebuilt. Also had issues with aluminum nipples and massive corrosion after 6 months. I would just buy the rims then go find a good wheel builder and get them built using brass nipples.
    Thanks for the suggestion...

  26. #6576
    Merendon Junkie
    Reputation: abelfonseca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    821
    Are there many of you guys running these rims with alloy niples, or is everybody using brass. I laced mine with alloy. Should I expect them to fail from corrosion soon?
    I wasnt aware of this galvanic corrosion issue until someone recently pointed it out to me.

  27. #6577
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    978
    Anyone know if there making 35/30 29er rims with the new profile U shaped like 38mm wide, I really like that deeper U shape profile. The older shape looks like a alloy rim to me. Also anyone looking for great tires for there rims the Bontrager XR4, XR3, XR2 Team Ussue 29x2.30 some of the best time I now use. Light,durable, great predictable traction. Fast rolling. Only drawback is getting them!!

  28. #6578
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    Depends on your environment and how often you wash your bike. I started having failures around 2 years. Just rebuilt 6 wheels in the last 2 weeks as a winter project. I had already rebuilt 2 previously.

    Sent from my G3 using Tapatalk.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  29. #6579
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    5,648
    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Are there many of you guys running these rims with alloy niples, or is everybody using brass. I laced mine with alloy. Should I expect them to fail from corrosion soon?
    I wasnt aware of this galvanic corrosion issue until someone recently pointed it out to me.
    I have a deep creak crossing so at this point the weight savings or color wasn't worth it to me. The last wheelset I had built and the one that's coming up both use brass.
    Ibis Mojo 3
    Carver 420 TI
    Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  30. #6580
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    9,922
    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Are there many of you guys running these rims with alloy niples, or is everybody using brass. I laced mine with alloy. Should I expect them to fail from corrosion soon?
    I wasnt aware of this galvanic corrosion issue until someone recently pointed it out to me.
    I built mine with brass nipples and stainless washers. And Permatex Anti-Seize.
    Last edited by eb1888; 12-11-2014 at 07:05 PM.

  31. #6581
    mtbr member
    Reputation: freebiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    736

    rims are great but stop there. support/invest/trust your local wheelbuilder

    Not surprised on lb build issues w incorrect spoke lengths. Like it is that hard to order the rims and hand carry them to a local wheel builder to assemble. Does everything need to come ready to use at your doorstep. The amazon era. Its gonna do us in!

  32. #6582
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    451
    I have 2 full seasons of hard riding on mine w/ aluminum sapim polyax nipples. I used a grey automotive anti-seize on the nipple seats. I live in dry Colorado. I will build again w/ alloy, unless I have a failure in the near future. My "understanding" is that if the nipples have a good anodization then failure should not occur. The use of anti-seize was at the suggestion of someone on this group. I know that I will get many anti aluminum comments, but my experience has been good, albeit "so far". I have heard from someone who built and rebuilt many Enve wheels that the original Enve nipples that so many people had issues with were not anodized at all. YMMV.

  33. #6583
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    5,648
    Quote Originally Posted by freebiker View Post
    Not surprised on lb build issues w incorrect spoke lengths. Like it is that hard to order the rims and hand carry them to a local wheel builder to assemble. Does everything need to come ready to use at your doorstep. The amazon era. Its gonna do us in!
    It's not that, it's the price, people think they are saving $150 ignoring all the advice against their builds. There are a few people posting they are happy with them, but I wonder if they even know what to look for to know if its a good build to begin with.
    Ibis Mojo 3
    Carver 420 TI
    Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  34. #6584
    Crash Dummy In Training
    Reputation: PauLCa916's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,404
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    It's not that, it's the price, people think they are saving $150 ignoring all the advice against their builds. There are a few people posting they are happy with them, but I wonder if they even know what to look for to know if its a good build to begin with.
    That's what I wonder about.
    I had mine done by a wheel builder with King Hubs I'm very happy.
    ​​
    2015 Flyxii / ENVE /Chris King Carbon 29'er H.T.
    SRAM XX1
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T. SRAM XX1
    1997 Rock Hopper / Rock Shox Recon Silver / 1 x 10 SRAM X9 XO Mix XT V Brake system

  35. #6585
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    All my wheels were built with DT nipples. Red, black, clear; anodized. They all showed significant corrosion after 2 years. I do wash my bikes after every 3 rd ride on average.

    Sent from my G3 using Tapatalk.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  36. #6586
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    239
    I used alloy with my build-I do on most of my builds. But I live in the dry deserts of colorado. So my wheels really don't see much water or salt. If your bike sees lots of salty water then go for the brass.

    On a side note-I haven't heard of anyone having corrosion issues with carbon seatposts/handlebars and the AL frames and stems.

  37. #6587
    Fat & Single
    Reputation: ozzybmx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,053
    Quote Originally Posted by mtndude23 View Post
    I used alloy with my build-I do on most of my builds. But I live in the dry deserts of colorado. So my wheels really don't see much water or salt. If your bike sees lots of salty water then go for the brass
    The weather doesn't make any difference, I'm from South Australia, the driest state on the driest continent on earth... I started this thread a while back - ENVE wheel nipple corrosion.

    Carbon is a non metallic conductor of electricity, so between galvanic corrosion, a reaction with stans liquid or whatever caused the failure of many ENVE wheelsets, just go brass.

    I now don't own a set of metal wheels, embarrassingly I have 7 sets of carbon wheels, only 1 expensive set though, the rest are Nextie and LB rims. I build my own wheels and will never build another set of wheels with alloy nipples, ever.
    Trek 9.9 Superfly SL
    FM190 Fatty
    Indy Fab Deluxe 29
    Pivot Vault CX
    Cervelo R3 Disc

  38. #6588
    Merendon Junkie
    Reputation: abelfonseca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    821
    Will relative humidity have something to do with the corrosion issue? Ie. The drier the worse? Static electricity will thrive in drier weather. Has anybody seen a correlation with this?

  39. #6589
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    Washing the bike seems to have the most affect on how fast corrosion occurs. Water gets between the nipple and rim. Moisture speeds up corrosion.

    Sent from my G3 using Tapatalk.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  40. #6590
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    9,922
    I am now only riding wide and then I see what this guy can do...
    Chris Akrigg - Chriscross 2 - BIKE Magazine

  41. #6591
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    384
    My local wheel builder says that aluminum nipples are for show and brass are for go.

  42. #6592
    mtbr member
    Reputation: elsinore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    451
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    It's not that, it's the price, people think they are saving $150 ignoring all the advice against their builds. There are a few people posting they are happy with them, but I wonder if they even know what to look for to know if its a good build to begin with.
    I am more than happy with my LB build. I think its pretty safe to say that their builds are inconsistent at best judging by whats been posted, but saying that folks don't even know what to look for who happen to be pleased with their build is pretty arrogant.
    Ive seen 3 LB builds locally that have all been fine. Mine has held up remarkably well. Good enough in fact that this wheelset has been better than most builds I have had and Im pretty hard on wheels. Id not hesitate to get another build from LB. If you don't want to take a chance with them then go the local builder route, its that simple.

  43. #6593
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    5,648
    Quote Originally Posted by elsinore View Post
    I am more than happy with my LB build. I think its pretty safe to say that their builds are inconsistent at best judging by whats been posted, but saying that folks don't even know what to look for who happen to be pleased with their build is pretty arrogant.
    Ive seen 3 LB builds locally that have all been fine. Mine has held up remarkably well. Good enough in fact that this wheelset has been better than most builds I have had and Im pretty hard on wheels. Id not hesitate to get another build from LB. If you don't want to take a chance with them then go the local builder route, its that simple.
    It wasn't arrogance,it was just a statement. You and both know there are a lot of posters that don't know what the hell they're talking about on here. So I just wondered. Just because someone gets the wheels and they ride them, doesn't mean it's a good build.

    So with your build and those others, you've checked tension? How were the spoke lengths? Any prep on the nipples?

    Also, you kind of make our point with this "I think its pretty safe to say that their builds are inconsistent" So to save $150 it's worth rolling the dice and hoping you get one of the 'good' builds?

    No thanks- I'm on my 4th wheelset from Mike- no need to save a $150 and take a chance. I'm sure plenty of other can say the same for the builders they use.
    Ibis Mojo 3
    Carver 420 TI
    Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  44. #6594
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rockman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    5,335
    This online calculator is pretty handy for checking build quality. Park Tool Co. » TM-1 Tension Meter Bladed Spoke Calculator

    Borrow a TM-1 from a friend, the LBS, or buy one for $70.
    "Fart in a paper bag, after eating the #17 plate from filibertos. STRAVA!" M77Ranger.

  45. #6595
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    971
    The corrosion you're discussing: is it just the nipple that disintegrates? Or does the carbon disintegrate around the nipple as well?

    I can live with replacing spoke and nipples every few years, but don't want to damage rim.

  46. #6596
    mtbr member
    Reputation: reamer41's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    634

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Are there many of you guys running these rims with alloy niples, or is everybody using brass. I laced mine with alloy. Should I expect them to fail from corrosion soon?
    I wasnt aware of this galvanic corrosion issue until someone recently pointed it out to me.
    I've got 2 years on mine. Black aluminum nipples, LB rims, CX-ray spokes. Last week I had to replace 2 spokes due to an unfortunate incident involving a lot of wet clay, a wrecked rear dérailleur, and a couple broken/bent spokes.

    No corrosion at all on the spokes/nipples I removed, and no signs of it on the remaining.

    Not to say it won't happen, just that, so far, I've got no signs of corrosion.
    --Reamer

  47. #6597
    transmitter~receiver
    Reputation: meltingfeather's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    8,838

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Are there many of you guys running these rims with alloy niples, or is everybody using brass. I laced mine with alloy. Should I expect them to fail from corrosion soon?
    I wasnt aware of this galvanic corrosion issue until someone recently pointed it out to me.
    It's not necessarily galvanic corrosion. In fact, nothing really points to that. The misuse of technical terms is just something that happens when a bunch of people start reading snippets of Wikipedia and acting like they know what they are talking about. It plagues Internet forums.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  48. #6598
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pharmaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    505
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    It's not necessarily galvanic corrosion. In fact, nothing really points to that. The misuse of technical terms is just something that happens when a bunch of people start reading snippets of Wikipedia and acting like they know what they are talking about. It plagues Internet forums.
    Lol, some truth to this. BUT, alloy nipples are more prone to poor manufacture are weaker and more prone to rounding on high tension wheel sets.

    All in all, alloy nipples have no real world benefit at all, and plenty of real world potential downsides, such that using brass is a no brainer. People who are so affected that they value an anodised colour higher than use-ability and dependability have to take a good hard look at themselves in the mirror or go buy a white wheeled fixie, get a manicured beard, and become a barista.


  49. #6599
    transmitter~receiver
    Reputation: meltingfeather's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    8,838

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by pharmaboy View Post
    Lol, some truth to this. BUT, alloy nipples are more prone to poor manufacture are weaker and more prone to rounding on high tension wheel sets.

    All in all, alloy nipples have no real world benefit at all, and plenty of real world potential downsides, such that using brass is a no brainer. People who are so affected that they value an anodised colour higher than use-ability and dependability have to take a good hard look at themselves in the mirror or go buy a white wheeled fixie, get a manicured beard, and become a barista.

    Funny stuff!
    One benefit is rotating weight reduction and for all the probably billions of aluminum nipples out there there are relatively few problems like this.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  50. #6600
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    Well I knew about galvanic corrosion decades before the 2001 start of Wikipedia. I had 2 wheels with broken nipples this Summer and rebuilt them with brass and I just rebuilt the other 6 in the last 2 weeks using brass. Here is a sampling of the damage I found.

    https://www.dropbox.com/sc/apd0zahc3...pWyY9elieN7bma

    Sure looks like galvanic corrosion to me. These nipples have been in there around 2 years. I wash my bikes about every 3rd ride and I ride a lot-like 5 times a week.

    https://www.dropbox.com/sc/2w5zzgwvj...4sri3mNYJYKLja

    I have 3 sets of Stans wheels some of them 5 years old and so far no nipple problems. So my theory is that it is galvanic corrosion caused by the carbon (which is drilled no molded-that should make it worse) and the more you wash/get them wet, the worse the problem.

    Tell us MF, what is your theory on what is happening?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •