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  1. #3251
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    Curious what the problem was? I just ordered some 38mm road wheels for use with rim brakes - have only used their rims brakeless or with disc in the past.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2002maniac View Post
    Anyone had any luck getting light-bicycle to honor their warranty?

    I have a pair of 700c road rims that bulged after my first descent. "Nancy" said that this was a known problem and they could warranty them no problem.

  2. #3252
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    That's kind of strange. I had an issue with a 650B rim that I received from LB where a portion of the bead hook looked missing. I contacted Brian at LB and sent him some pictures. He had me mail the rim to an address in New York and once he got confirmation the defective rim was received I was sent a new rim within a week or two.
    If I were you I would e-mail them again and get a date from them and tell them if the rims do not ship by that date you want a refund.
    I would do it soon since Chinese New Year is coming up in a week and they'll most likely be on vacation for 2 weeks.

  3. #3253
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    Ok been wondering where to post this, but since so many wheel builders appear to frequent this thread, and I do have these carbon rims, I will ask here......
    Not sure what spoke lengths to choose, given the calculator output vs the available sizes of DT Revolution which are in 2mm increments.......

    So am I good going with 292mm?
    Not sure if this helps, but Chad at Red Barn just built my LB wheels up with DT240s and DT Revs and he included the spoke length info, etc in the box. As many of you probably know Chad is a highly respected builder and has done up quite a few Chinese carbon builds from what he told me over the phone. Here's the info I have from the notes he included in the box...

    Rims = Chinese 29er 32h (ERD = 601)
    Hubs = DT Swiss 32H 100QR 135 QR
    Flange Diameter - F = (L-58 R-42) & R = (L- 57 R-48)

    Center to Flange
    Front Left = 290
    Front Right = 295
    Rear Left = 291
    Rear Right = 292

  4. #3254
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    The last set I built was the same DT 240 hubs with DT Revolution spokes. I used:
    Front left 291
    Front right 295
    Rear left 292
    Rear right 292
    This was rounding down from spoke calc spreadsheet that I use which came out to:
    Front left 291.2
    Front right 295
    Rear Left 292.5
    Rear Left 292.6
    The wheels came out perfect with the ends of the spokes around 1mm inside the nipples.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  5. #3255
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    Quote Originally Posted by broadwayline View Post
    Curious what the problem was? I just ordered some 38mm road wheels for use with rim brakes - have only used their rims brakeless or with disc in the past.
    Both rims overheated and bulged at the brake track. It was a pretty scary failure on a high speed descent! they say the deeper rims are less likely to have this problem, but beware.

    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    That's kind of strange. I had an issue with a 650B rim that I received from LB where a portion of the bead hook looked missing. I contacted Brian at LB and sent him some pictures. He had me mail the rim to an address in New York and once he got confirmation the defective rim was received I was sent a new rim within a week or two.
    If I were you I would e-mail them again and get a date from them and tell them if the rims do not ship by that date you want a refund.
    I would do it soon since Chinese New Year is coming up in a week and they'll most likely be on vacation for 2 weeks.
    Still have not heard a peep from them. I've tried contacting them at both their sales and support email addresses. I think they screwed me.

    Be careful with light-bicycle.com guys!

  6. #3256
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    Just wanted to throw this up...

    I rebuilt mine today ...w/ brass niplers...galvanic corrosion concerns, valid or not...whatev. And since I had them tore down, thought I'd throw them on a scale. Not nearly as light as I thought, but hey hey're stiffer than a 20 y.o. on 200mg of Viagra!
    Frt: LB wider and heavier 29er (433g), King LD, DT Swiss Comps 292mm, DT hex brass, 3X
    RR: LB wider and heavier 29er (429g), King HD 142 (ss driveshell), DT Comps 292mm, DT hex brass, 3X

    Pic taken w/o rim strip or valve...

    Didn't really use my tension meter and just went by tone. If anyone's interested, I can slap the tension meter on them and get you some numbers. Used anti-seize for thread and nipler head lube...made for one quiet build session! Normally, I'd get creaking and popping when I side-load the wheel to unwind the nipler/spokes. This time, not a peep! I think I was able to get a bit higher tension w/ anti-seize also...the nipples didn't bind on the carbon/resin as much. I can't recall who on here said they used some chopsticks to apply anti-seize, but thanks for the idea!

    Edit: Harbor Freight scale (reads as CHEAP) so accuracy might be a bit suspect...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-lb-king-comps-rr-1057g.jpg  

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-lb-king-comp-frt-867g.jpg  

    Last edited by Pau11y; 02-04-2013 at 07:29 AM.
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  7. #3257
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    Your welcome!
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  8. #3258
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    You R da guy!

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Your welcome!
    That was you? Yeah, that worked well! I hate that creaking/popping when I tension up a wheel...almost like you have to tension at indexed points...and then it's not really tensioning, more like just twisting the spokes. The anti-seize seems to let the spokes not wind up nearly as much and spin free of the nipples

    I was wondering what the hell I was going to do w/ all that anti-seize...$15 at an auto parts store got me 3 life-time supply of the stuff
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  9. #3259
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    Before we get too excited, I wouldn't neccessarily chalk this one up soley to corrosion. Its hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like the spoke was a few mm's short which puts the nipple purely in tension. Ideally (from what I've read ), the spoke should protrude past the plane where it seats in rim so that it's loaded in both compression and tension. Looks like a tensile failure to me. Whether or not corrision was a contributing factor is debateable. Also very well possible that you got a couple of bad nipples.

    Meltingfeather, call me out if I'm wrong here.
    +1

    And anodizing is done with Sulfuric acid, not caustic soda.
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  10. #3260
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    Pau11y: I have had my "jar" of anti-sieze for probably 10 years and it is still close to half full, but there are times when nothing else works. I recommend to use it on lug nuts since they often get "intimate" with alloy wheels and the time you need to remove them you often do not have an impact.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  11. #3261
    AZ
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    Copper or Nickel anti-seize? Any preferences?

  12. #3262
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Pau11y: I have had my "jar" of anti-sieze for probably 10 years and it is still close to half full, but there are times when nothing else works. I recommend to use it on lug nuts since they often get "intimate" with alloy wheels and the time you need to remove them you often do not have an impact.
    Yup, I'm using anti-seize everywhere (liberally) that requires lubrication on parts that doesn't see constant rotation...on cars and bikes. But liberally is kinda subjective w/ anti-seize...it doesn't take much at all! And, it's amazing how quiet your bike becomes once you switch over to anti-seize vs grease on threaded parts!

    But be careful w/ the stuff around rugs...makes an awful mess! The only thing I've found that works is Oxyclean based rug cleaner.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  13. #3263
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002maniac View Post
    Both rims overheated and bulged at the brake track. It was a pretty scary failure on a high speed descent! they say the deeper rims are less likely to have this problem, but beware.



    Still have not heard a peep from them. I've tried contacting them at both their sales and support email addresses. I think they screwed me.

    Be careful with light-bicycle.com guys!
    Factory closed till after the 20th. Chinese New Year. Everyone closes at this time.

  14. #3264
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    I bought the 23.5mm wide carbon rims from Carbonality. Ran them tubeless for cyclocross. After a couple CX races I noticed a bulge around one rim and a crack on another. They were cracking at the valve hole. I emailed Jason, whom has been in this thread several times (I think someone rudely referred to him as a "shill" once) , and he took care of me immediately! Great service! I have two new rims coming, only had to pay like 20 bucks for shipping.

    He said they were aware of the issue on that run of rims and they have since been beefed up, redesigned. I think I bought these back in June or July... Anyway, I'm bummed I have to rebuild them, that was PITA! Aluminum nips and Rev's just weren't playing nice. But, I'm pretty stoked on his service. I'll buy more stuff from him for sure! 650b frame and wheels will be next!



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  15. #3265
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    For those of you who arent following the ENVE Al nipple corrosion thread on the wheel forum, here is a picture. The guy paid $2700 for his set of wheels ($800 just for each rim) and ENVE pretty much said he is SOL. Ill take my light bicycles rims any day @ $160 each for the rims.


  16. #3266
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Rim hookless is worth?

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  17. #3267
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    I know this has been in the thread, but i wasnt sure i was going to get some of these carbon wheels so I didn't take note of where it was but....Ihave a set of LB thinner 29 carbon wheels ordered expected to arrive in the next couple of days, and I want to do a stans tape Kind of tubeless. My question is.., what width tape should I use? And if anyone took note could they tell me where in the thread I can see this kind of info, I would be very greatful. I have read almost all of the pages here and am very thankful for all the great information

  18. #3268
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    21mm tape and standard 26" rim strip. You can try the XC 29er rim strip, but I feel they fit too loose on the rim.
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  19. #3269
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    light-bicycle.com "new process" 29er wheels

    Ordered these from light-bicycle.com 22nd January, USPS tried delivering them February 5th, actually got them on the 6th. Very good communication from Brian.

    • "Wider" 29" rim on new early 2013 mold/process
    • Novatec D711/D712 hubs
    • 32 spoke
    • Alloy nipples
    • No decals

    Without tape, skewers etc. weights come in at 696g front and 840g rear. Seem nice and true, quick ping test suggests pretty even spoke tension. I'll be running these with tubes.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-front.jpg

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-rear.jpg

  20. #3270
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    I just received my 29AM rims as well and they look great. Holes are perfectly round and smooth edges. Finishing was fantastic. I can't wait to try the rickers stickers I just received. They replace the liner and should save me about an additional ounce.

    Yamon.

  21. #3271
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    Thanks. i will try out some stans tape and see how it goes.

  22. #3272
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    How many clicks or ratcheting stops, sometimes called points-of-engagement, does the rear Novatec D711/D712 hubs hub have during one freewheel revolution?

    Thanks!

  23. #3273
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    Just picked mine up from USPS. These are new process, wider, "normal" weight 29er, 32h, matte - 385g/396g. Fit and finish looks really good. Bead hooks are perfectly smooth. Holes are all straight and smooth edged as well.

  24. #3274
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    Quote Originally Posted by botanicbiker View Post
    Just picked mine up from USPS. These are new process, wider, "normal" weight 29er, 32h, matte - 385g/396g. Fit and finish looks really good. Bead hooks are perfectly smooth. Holes are all straight and smooth edged as well.
    Put the two side by side and rotate them thru at least 90 degrees to see how flat they are

    Are these fab'd w/ the new process?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  25. #3275
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Pau11y: I have had my "jar" of anti-sieze for probably 10 years and it is still close to half full, but there are times when nothing else works. I recommend to use it on lug nuts since they often get "intimate" with alloy wheels and the time you need to remove them you often do not have an impact.
    So I was digging around on roadbikereview.com since they've adopted cf rims well before we did and came across these:
    Titanium Bike Wheel Nipples - Bicycle Spoke Nipples | Titan Wheel Tech Bicycle Components

    I'm not suggesting Ti nipples, but rather the use of anti-seize. Seems there is a legit precedence for the use of anti-seize to prep spokes/nipples!
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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