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  1. #1201
    MattSavage
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    Quote Originally Posted by hogprint View Post
    100psi. Light bikes has a limit of 130 published for their road rims and 65 for MTB. I'm not concerned. These are the extra beefy 29er wide rims.

    I've got over 1000 miles of gravel riding on these with 40mm tires at 70-80 psi. No issues.
    So, let me get this straight... Those are the 30mm wide, tubeless 29er's from Light-Bicycle, Nancy Yu?

    And you're running 28c tires on them? So I shouldn't have any problem running 34-35c tubeless CX tires on them, you think?
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  2. #1202
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    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    is anyone of the consenses that the bontrager rythym strips resist burping better than the yellow tape, which in my opinion only seals the spoke holes?
    Yes. Even with a TLR rim and a TLR tire, a rim strip is still the appropriate set up. Some tire/wheel combos will let you "get away" without using a strip, but a strip is still advised. Tape is strictly for the spoke holes.
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  3. #1203
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    Tire sizes and rim tapes- hope this help

    Tire size - this question is correctly answered with a rule of thumb type formula and some user preference.

    Remember when it comes to tire widths only the inside width matters. I.E. a 30mm rim with 2mm thick walls will be 26mm and a 30mm rim with a 23mm inside width will have 3.5mm walls.

    Narrowest - take the inside width of the rim and multiply by 1.4. i.e. 23mm rim inside width x 1.4 = 32mm. Any thing smaller than 32 in this case will start to take on a squared off profile and handle funny especially on the road. Also a smaller than 32 tire will be extra prone to rim damage and pinch flats. Put a 700x23 on a rim this wide and the awful results will be visually obvious, that tire will not have a nice rounded profile and will be a handful to ride. The contact patch will actually get narrower when you lean the bike and put the tire on edge as opposed to having it get wider like with a typical rounded profile. This can and probably would result in sliding out in turns.

    Now going the other way whats the widest tire that wont run into obvious problems. This end of the spectrum is more personal choice but there are real concerns with non disc brakes, tubeless burps and tires not wanting to stay on the bead.

    Take the rim inside width and multiply by 2 for a road bike and by 3 for a mountain bike and you get a good guide line as to how wide you can safely go. WTB Wilderness Trail Bikes even lists a guide line as to how narrow or how wide of a tire to mount on a given rim model they make. This calculation gives you a good idea where these number come from.

    So lets take a nice wide 23mm inside width rim in this case. 23 x 3 = 69mm = 2.71" So with a rim this wide a 2.5 DH tire will feel fine. So with a 23mm rim a tire between 1.4" ~ 32mm iso and 2.7"

    Personally my preference for a tire on a rim this size would be 2.25 at a minimum and 2.5 at a maximum because I like a big tire but not so big that it starts to feel squirmy.

    Rim tape should be specific to the profile of a rim. There is not a thick tape is better than thin tape or visa versa argument that holds water. The reason for my question of yellow tape vs thicker tape was to see if there is a consensus on the correct thickness for these relatively new carbon rims. Stans does a good bit of testing on how thick of tape to use but of course they cant test every rim the minuite it comes out. I would at this point hazard to guess that stans is too thin for these new carbon rims. Stans has a great list of which rims need a lot of thick stuff and which ones are better with just a thin

    I really wish there was an easy way to measure and come up with a hard fast rule and or formula for tubeless rim strips.

  4. #1204
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillharman View Post
    Some of these catastrophic rim strikes sound like they are happening at lower pressures, which were the result of a tubeless setup that had leaked down...
    not the case at all. 40 psi on a hardtail in rough terrain is not subtle. if it had leaked down i would have noticed. i hit the rock very very hard going likely 30 mph and prejumping 10 feet into a 4-foot deep waterbar. i'm 190 lbs and a strong rider. big impact.

    i have no idea how you guys ride under 30 psi, it would just be a sloppy mess trying to corner like that, and i'd be smashing my rim constantly.

  5. #1205
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    So, let me get this straight... Those are the 30mm wide, tubeless 29er's from Light-Bicycle, Nancy Yu?

    And you're running 28c tires on them? So I shouldn't have any problem running 34-35c tubeless CX tires on them, you think?
    when did he say 28c tires? the post you quoted says 40mm.

    34*35c on 30mm (OD) rims should be fine.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
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  6. #1206
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkalewis View Post
    not the case at all. 40 psi on a hardtail in rough terrain is not subtle. if it had leaked down i would have noticed. i hit the rock very very hard going likely 30 mph and prejumping 10 feet into a 4-foot deep waterbar. i'm 190 lbs and a strong rider. big impact.

    i have no idea how you guys ride under 30 psi, it would just be a sloppy mess trying to corner like that, and i'd be smashing my rim constantly.
    i have no idea how you can stand to ride your mountain bike with 40psi in the tires.
    different strokes...
    you can rim strike at almost any pressure if you f**k up bad enough.
    sounds like you did just that.
    i weigh 205 and plan to ride these rims (when they show up) in the low 20s on very rocky terrain.

    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  7. #1207
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkalewis View Post
    not the case at all. 40 psi on a hardtail in rough terrain is not subtle. if it had leaked down i would have noticed. i hit the rock very very hard going likely 30 mph and prejumping 10 feet into a 4-foot deep waterbar. i'm 190 lbs and a strong rider. big impact.

    i have no idea how you guys ride under 30 psi, it would just be a sloppy mess trying to corner like that, and i'd be smashing my rim constantly.
    Was that the rear? Any damage to the tire?

  8. #1208
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    yes, the rear. the tire is fine (schwalbe snakeskin is pretty impressive). i can get away with 35 psi in the rear on the hardtail most of the time, but need 40 for racing because you're smashing the hell out of the bike. it feels awful, but so does racing.

    more suspension and more aggressive rubber allows for somewhat lower pressures.

    is the above photo is meant to represent rough terrain? if you're riding that with such low pressure at 205 lbs then you must be going very very slow. i don't get it.

  9. #1209
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjay View Post
    Tire sizes and rim tapes- hope this help....
    good stuff, thanks for this post!
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  10. #1210
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    So, let me get this straight... Those are the 30mm wide, tubeless 29er's from Light-Bicycle, Nancy Yu?

    And you're running 28c tires on them? So I shouldn't have any problem running 34-35c tubeless CX tires on them, you think?
    No problem. I ran 40mm Happy Medium for the bulk of my early spring riding on gravel and popped the 28 on yesterday for the summer roads. Went for a 40 miler today and the ride was incredible. Just like a tubular. Yes these are the wide 29er rim.
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  11. #1211
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    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    is anyone of the consenses that the bontrager rythym strips resist burping better than the yellow tape, which in my opinion only seals the spoke holes?
    The Stan's tape is for nothing more than sealing the spoke holes.
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  12. #1212
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    when did he say 28c tires? the post you quoted says 40mm.

    34*35c on 30mm (OD) rims should be fine.
    yup, both are correct. 40mm Happy Medium for gravel season and now 28mm Clement LGG's for the summer road season. I have some entries in the Salsa forum under Lightweight Vaya's when I describe my Vaya Ti that these wheels reside on. When I ordered the rims I had planned on re-lacing my Industry Nine wheels on my JET 9 but decided a rim swap on my King 29er wheels would be easier. Those wheel lived on my Fargo all around bike and now on my new Ti Vaya all around bike.
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  13. #1213
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkalewis View Post
    not the case at all. 40 psi on a hardtail in rough terrain is not subtle. if it had leaked down i would have noticed. i hit the rock very very hard going likely 30 mph and prejumping 10 feet into a 4-foot deep waterbar. i'm 190 lbs and a strong rider. big impact.

    i have no idea how you guys ride under 30 psi, it would just be a sloppy mess trying to corner like that, and i'd be smashing my rim constantly.
    You need to learn to flow,

  14. #1214
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkalewis View Post
    i don't get it.
    pretty much.
    if you're ever around Austin, Texas with your 40 psi tires send me a PM and we'll see if you can keep up. I ride rigid SS, if you can believe that.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  15. #1215
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkalewis View Post
    yes, the rear. the tire is fine (schwalbe snakeskin is pretty impressive). i can get away with 35 psi in the rear on the hardtail most of the time, but need 40 for racing because you're smashing the hell out of the bike. it feels awful, but so does racing.

    more suspension and more aggressive rubber allows for somewhat lower pressures.

    is the above photo is meant to represent rough terrain? if you're riding that with such low pressure at 205 lbs then you must be going very very slow. i don't get it.
    Agree with others.
    40psi is mad.
    I am 82kg.
    I run 20psi front and 22psi rear.
    I race endurance events.

  16. #1216
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    I hear a lot of 200 lb guys talking about 20ish PSI, also seems really low. Whenever my front tire leaks down to mid 20's I feel like I'm rolling it on hard turns (never let the rear get that low). Weigh 195 nude, probably 210ish with all gear, have non snakeskin RaRas (not tubeless), and I'm scared for tires at 35 PSI. Some of the trails in SoCal can be ridden fast when there isn't really any 'line' per se and there is NO way 20ish PSI would hold up. One trail in particular comes to mind:

    Rock It:


    It's burlier than it looks in that picture, and Brian Lopes averages 19 mph on it.
    Rock-It all DH

    Maybe it's just the RaRa's that fold too easy, but we'll see. I have some Ikon EXO and 2.2 Xkings I'm picking up this afternoon.

  17. #1217
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    Backing up to the Rhythm strips vs Stans tape. Stans tape is somewhat of a joke. It works great on Stans rims because of the rim design being inherently tighter but on "regular" rims it doesn't make the tire tight enough. I've done many, many tubeless conversions with many different brands of non-tubeless rims and you have to beef up the bead seat or the tires are too loose. Lots of people say, "they popped right on with no tools!" Too me, that means the tire is too loose and burping is a distinct possibility. ALL of my conversions require a tire lever to get the tire on. I've put as many as four layers of Gorilla tape(MUCH cheaper than Stans tape and will do countless rim conversions) on a WTB rim to get the tire to be tight and my 260lb sasquatch buddy has been rocking that setup for nearly 3 years

    Bottom line for the carbon rims discussed in this thread; one layer of Stans isn't going to cut it. I have one layer of Stans tape and a Rhythm strip(equal to maybe 5 layers of Stans tape???) and my tire isn't going anywhere! I highly recommend the Rhythm strips for these rims. They're cheaper and easier to install than Stans tape so why not grab a pair and try something new? At least use several layers of tape so your tires are tight I don't want to see anyone crunching their rims because they had a blowout.

    FYI, I've got 600 miles on my carbon rims and they're still going strong Extremely impressed with them so far!

  18. #1218
    TR
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    Quote Originally Posted by probiscus View Post
    I hear a lot of 200 lb guys talking about 20ish PSI, also seems really low. Whenever my front tire leaks down to mid 20's I feel like I'm rolling it on hard turns (never let the rear get that low). Weigh 195 nude, probably 210ish with all gear, have non snakeskin RaRas (not tubeless), and I'm scared for tires at 35 PSI. Some of the trails in SoCal can be ridden fast when there isn't really any 'line' per se and there is NO way 20ish PSI would hold up. One trail in particular comes to mind:

    Maybe it's just the RaRa's that fold too easy, but we'll see. I have some Ikon EXO and 2.2 Xkings I'm picking up this afternoon.
    I see a couple of issues.
    Light weight race tyres (Racing Ralphs).
    Rocky, technical terrain.
    Dont go and buy Ikons or Xkings , or if you do, also get some moresuitable tyres as well.
    Maybe get hold of some Ardents, Rampages, Hans Dampf or Nobby Nic's.
    But just like you cannot see how anyone can ride at 20psi, I cannot imagine riding at 40psi.
    That is what I use to set my bead or to ride my MTB for extended distances on bitumen.

  19. #1219
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    Quote Originally Posted by TR View Post
    I see a couple of issues.
    Light weight race tyres (Racing Ralphs).
    Rocky, technical terrain.
    Dont go and buy Ikons or Xkings , or if you do, also get some moresuitable tyres as well.
    Maybe get hold of some Ardents, Rampages, Hans Dampf or Nobby Nic's.
    But just like you cannot see how anyone can ride at 20psi, I cannot imagine riding at 40psi.
    That is what I use to set my bead or to ride my MTB for extended distances on bitumen.
    I'll give a thumbs up to the Nobby Nics (and Ardents). One of the difficulties when discussing p.s.i. is that all gauges are not created equal. What my top end floor pump shows for a p.s.i. is not even close to my digital, battery operated hand held pressure gauge. Even with utmost accuracy, I can't even imagine riding something at 40 psi on a 29"er unless it was a real skinny-mini tire. I wouldn't be able to stop on any dirt or climb. But the question is - does the original poster who mentioned 40 psi have a few tire gauges available to make sure that is really the pressure he is riding? My tires are rock hard at 30 psi, so trying to figure out why and how somebody is riding 40 psi raises an eyebrow from me as well.

    The "sweet spot" for me (at 180-185 pounds) on my Dos Niner for Nobby Nic 2.35's tubeless is 23-25 psi rear, 20-22 psi rear on these "cheap Chinese AM rims". This allows me to go fast, and have cushion. If I really want a lot of cushion and maybe am not so concerned with top speed, dropping down about 2-3 psi is a very comfy ride with oodles of traction.

    I ride no tire on a 29"er in the 30's unless it is a 1.9/2.0 and I am heading out on pavement like gravel. Maxxis Maxxlite 2.0's in the low 30's tubeless fly on gravel. That's the highest I run. Everything else is in the upper teens to mid 20's. The idea of 40 psi makes my innards and limbs shake in fear....

  20. #1220
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    On the recommended rim strips, just to confirm these are Bontrager #406892 - correct?

  21. #1221
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    i have no idea how you can stand to ride your mountain bike with 40psi in the tires.
    different strokes...
    you can rim strike at almost any pressure if you f**k up bad enough.
    sounds like you did just that.
    i weigh 205 and plan to ride these rims (when they show up) in the low 20s on very rocky terrain.

    Me too. I might stick a bit more pressure in there if I know I'm going to ride somewhere with lots of pointy rocks, but usually 24/27 psi is my number, and I can probably run less.

  22. #1222
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    Just confirmed my final parts selection with Dave at Speeddream. Wide rims weighed in at 385g and 395g. They took over 3 weeks to get here but are flawless. He showed them to another wheelbuilder who promptly ordered a few. I was stuck between dtswiss 240s and p321. Asked Dave about Hadley and he aid they're great but hard to get a hold of...but he did have one rear hub in back. Long story short: I'm going black hadley rear black hope pro II front. Racing Ralph's SS on the way. Only question now is risk burps with stans yellow strips vs bonty strips (which i assume are quite a bit heavier?

  23. #1223
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdoft View Post
    Only question now is risk burps with stans yellow strips vs bonty strips (which i assume are quite a bit heavier?
    Stans yellow tape is not a rim strip. It's strictly to make the rim air tight (seal the spoke holes, rim joints, etc.) and does little to nothing to seal the bead. The rim strip, which is rubber and has the valve, whatever brand, whether it's Bontragers, Stan's Flows, Freeride, regular, whatever, is what's going to give the bead/rim interface its integrity and prevent burping. 20 layers of tape will do nothing for that interface, you need the compliance of the rubber rim strip being compressed between the bead and the rim to create that tight seal.

    Layers and layers of tape do help fill the channel to create a snug fit for initial bead seating, but the integrity is still compromised without a proper rim strip.
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  24. #1224
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    My wheels should be here this week

    Hadleys and Dt Comps. Do you know where I can get Bontrager Rim strips online? I can't find them.

    Thanks.
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  25. #1225
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    First ride on my rims today. Approx 32psi, I could possibly run a nudge lower, but not too much. I could never run less that 32 on my archs. Not due to burping, but due to tire roll. Vague handling and many many many sketchy moments. But I am a fairly agressive XC rider/racer. I weighed 80ish at the time, sitting much closer to 90 at the mo tho.
    With the new rims (the wider 30mm ones) and a single layer of stans tape, TL ready 2.25 racing raplh and 2.25 tl nobbly nic, they bead up easy peasy, fairly tight to get on the rim and takes a concerted push to pop them off the bead when deflated. I'm entirely confident in not burping these bad boys

  26. #1226
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdoft View Post
    Just confirmed my final parts selection with Dave at Speeddream. Wide rims weighed in at 385g and 395g. They took over 3 weeks to get here but are flawless. He showed them to another wheelbuilder who promptly ordered a few. I was stuck between dtswiss 240s and p321. Asked Dave about Hadley and he aid they're great but hard to get a hold of...but he did have one rear hub in back. Long story short: I'm going black hadley rear black hope pro II front. Racing Ralph's SS on the way. Only question now is risk burps with stans yellow strips vs bonty strips (which i assume are quite a bit heavier?
    Bonty rim strips are very light. With both of them on my digital table scale, they are so light the weight doesn't even register (get a reading of 0 grams). I used them on my AM carbon rims because I had a pair already and they are so light there isn't any worry of a "weight penalty" for the extra insurance they provide.

    BB

  27. #1227
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlackBoy View Post
    First ride on my rims today. Approx 32psi, I could possibly run a nudge lower, but not too much. I could never run less that 32 on my archs. Not due to burping, but due to tire roll. Vague handling and many many many sketchy moments. But I am a fairly agressive XC rider/racer. I weighed 80ish at the time, sitting much closer to 90 at the mo tho.
    With the new rims (the wider 30mm ones) and a single layer of stans tape, TL ready 2.25 racing raplh and 2.25 tl nobbly nic, they bead up easy peasy, fairly tight to get on the rim and takes a concerted push to pop them off the bead when deflated. I'm entirely confident in not burping these bad boys
    I don't get any tire roll (weighing about 83Kg) on the Nic 2.25 or Ralph 2.25 tubeless with the psi in the 20's - especially on the wider rims (Flow, Roval Carbon, light-bicycle AM carbon, Blunt, etc...).

    On the similar to light-bicycle carbon rims from Specialized (Roval 29 wheels), it's always interesting to see what the pro XC racers run for psi since they do it for a living and have most likey dialed in what works best for them in competition.

    Todd Wells' overall setup doesn't change much from course to course, save for tire models, tire pressures and suspension settings, as he prefers to keep things consistent for familiarity and predictability. "Today I'm going to run a bigger-volume tire – either the Renegade or Fast Trak," he told us on the morning of the Nationals short track race. "It's fast but there are also a lot of loose corners. But [I'll run] lower tire pressure today for sure because we don't go through the rock garden and that was the one section I was worried about flatting on yesterday. I ran 26[psi] in the back and 24.5 in the front – I'll probably go with 22 or 23 in the front and 24 in the back."

    # Rider's height: 1.88m (6ft 2in)
    # Rider's weight: 76.2kg (168lb)

  28. #1228
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    Just got off the phone with the wheel builder. Going with black DT Revolutions front and NDS rear and Wheelsmith DB14 DS rear. Wheelsmith black brass nipples all around.

    Quick question - are you really building these to 130kgf ds rear with alloy nipples? My builder thought the sharp edge of the spoke hole would cause marring and possible early corrosion, thus brass.

  29. #1229
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    I built to around 95ish

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  30. #1230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    Just got off the phone with the wheel builder. Going with black DT Revolutions front and NDS rear and Wheelsmith DB14 DS rear. Wheelsmith black brass nipples all around.

    Quick question - are you really building these to 130kgf ds rear with alloy nipples? My builder thought the sharp edge of the spoke hole would cause marring and possible early corrosion, thus brass.
    130 is unnecessarily high for 32h rims.
    100kgf is sufficient. 110-115 is fine too if you feel like more is better.
    I'm not sure how the hardness of cured epoxy compares to aluminum, but I'm not following the logic on corrosion.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  31. #1231
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    I also used dt-revos EVERYWHERE!! And i weigh 220. Don't notice any issues.

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  32. #1232
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    Stans yellow tape is not a rim strip. It's strictly to make the rim air tight (seal the spoke holes, rim joints, etc.) and does little to nothing to seal the bead. The rim strip, which is rubber and has the valve, whatever brand, whether it's Bontragers, Stan's Flows, Freeride, regular, whatever, is what's going to give the bead/rim interface its integrity and prevent burping. 20 layers of tape will do nothing for that interface, you need the compliance of the rubber rim strip being compressed between the bead and the rim to create that tight seal.

    Layers and layers of tape do help fill the channel to create a snug fit for initial bead seating, but the integrity is still compromised without a proper rim strip.
    Sorry, but you are almost completely full of sh!t. Where do you get this stuff?
    A couple of posts is passable, but your BS is like a snowball rolling downhill.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  33. #1233
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1336973715.892216.jpg. Finally got around to getting them No problems with the icon and a floor pump but had to use a co2 for the Aspen on the rear. Built up with 240s and 28 CX-Rays. Pretty easy build. Used one layer of gorilla tape and 3 ounces of cafe latex

  34. #1234
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    I'm not sure how the hardness of cured epoxy compares to aluminum, but I'm not following the logic on corrosion.
    From Boeing (http://www.boeing.com/commercial/aer...corrosn.html):
    Fiber-reinforced plastics are corrosion resistant, but plastics reinforced with carbon fibers can induce galvanic corrosion in attached aluminum structure.
    From Wikipedia on galvanic compatibility (Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
    For normal environments, such as storage in warehouses or non-temperature and humidity controlled environments, there should not be more than 0.25 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For controlled environments, in which temperature and humidity are controlled, 0.50 V can be tolerated. For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments, there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold - silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.

  35. #1235
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    I can google too and I'm familiar with corrosion basics. I still don't understand how marring and corrosion are related.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  36. #1236
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    Update on my set after about 500miles of riding and racing:

    my set up:

    one layer stans tape on each and I have run ikons and ignitors thus far. Im 180lbs and I run them at 25-27psi usually. Not one burp thus far in 500 miles and I usually ride in very rocky terrain in the northeast. Wheels are still in perfect working order, no issues what so ever to report. Very happy with them.

  37. #1237
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    Mine sealed with one layer of Stans tape. Doubled up over the valve area, but not all the way around. Ardent 2.4 tire. Took some muscle to get the tire on, so it had a great seal. Sorry you did not have luck.

  38. #1238
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    I can google too and I'm familiar with corrosion basics. I still don't understand how marring and corrosion are related.
    I am no expert, but my builder thought the drilled hole in the Light Bicycle rim, sharper than other carbon rim spoke holes (ENVE molded), might compromise the protective coating on alloy nipples by cutting into the nipple as it seats in the spoke hole.

    Do you think alloy nipples are riskier or compromise the lifetime of the build when matched with drilled carbon rims?

    FWIW - I am happy with brass nipples. The rims, spokes and hubs are light enough to make for a high performing wheelset. If the brass nipples provide real or perceived longevity it may just get me out of that tricky section just a little faster.

  39. #1239
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    There is no protective coating on alloy nipples at all. The thin anodizing is only a cosmetic feature.

  40. #1240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    I am no expert, but my builder thought the drilled hole in the Light Bicycle rim, sharper than other carbon rim spoke holes (ENVE molded), might compromise the protective coating on alloy nipples by cutting into the nipple as it seats in the spoke hole.
    Not a bad thought... I'm just not sure how much that's going to accelerate galvanic corrosion.
    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    Do you think alloy nipples are riskier or compromise the lifetime of the build when matched with drilled carbon rims?
    I haven't seen any lifetime effects at this point. Will definitely be watching.
    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    FWIW - I am happy with brass nipples. The rims, spokes and hubs are light enough to make for a high performing wheelset. If the brass nipples provide real or perceived longevity it may just get me out of that tricky section just a little faster.
    There are opinions on both sides. No doubt brass is easier to work on down the road. I don't see wheel longevity being in play. In general aluminum works fine, is lighter, and comes in pretty colors. Some folks also add that an aluminum nipple is more likely to provide rim protection by failing first if you get a stick in your spokes.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  41. #1241
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    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    There is no protective coating on alloy nipples at all. The thin anodizing is only a cosmetic feature.
    wrong.
    anodizing is protective, as is the seal that is typically applied afterward.
    if it is only cosmetic, then why is silver aluminum anodized as well?

    back on topic:
    I ordered my rims 4/25
    wider 29er in UD matte
    will post up when they arrive.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  42. #1242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    Speaking of this. I just went to remove my carbon post from my aluminum frame and it is very stuck. I cannot get it to move. I had treated with fibergrip grease when I put it in there (6-8 months ago. I want to sell the frame and am willing to sacrifice the post. I have soaked it in PB blaster and tried using a pipe wrench on the post to break it free. Any suggestions?
    "Son, The world needs ditchdiggers, too"-Ted Knight, Caddyshack

  43. #1243
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    Quote Originally Posted by utah joe View Post
    Update on my set after about 500miles of riding and racing:

    my set up:

    one layer stans tape on each and I have run ikons and ignitors thus far. Im 180lbs and I run them at 25-27psi usually. Not one burp thus far in 500 miles and I usually ride in very rocky terrain in the northeast. Wheels are still in perfect working order, no issues what so ever to report. Very happy with them.
    What hubs are you using?

  44. #1244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fett View Post
    Speaking of this. I just went to remove my carbon post from my aluminum frame and it is very stuck. I cannot get it to move. I had treated with fibergrip grease when I put it in there (6-8 months ago. I want to sell the frame and am willing to sacrifice the post. I have soaked it in PB blaster and tried using a pipe wrench on the post to break it free. Any suggestions?
    Technical FAQ: Stuck seatpost remedies

  45. #1245
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    [QUOTE=Fett;9310025 Any suggestions?[/QUOTE]

    A couple of flex hones and about 6 hours with the drill is what it took me to remove a fused Easton carbon post from an Intense Spider.
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  46. #1246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy V View Post
    What hubs are you using?
    Standard Lefty front, DT240 rear. Sapium laser spoke in for the front, rear is lasers non drive side, DT race on the drive side. I use this wheelset for racing on both my SS and my scalpel, to I went with the DT240 rear because you can change the hub from 142x12 to 135 in 5min.

  47. #1247
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    Quote Originally Posted by utah joe View Post
    Standard Lefty front, DT240 rear. Sapium laser spoke in for the front, rear is lasers non drive side, DT race on the drive side. I use this wheelset for racing on both my SS and my scalpel, to I went with the DT240 rear because you can change the hub from 142x12 to 135 in 5min.
    The DT240's are quite spendy.
    Any thoughts/experience with the Novatech D881/D882 which are 15mm / 142x12.?
    This is one of their build options.
    Or is this no place to compromise?

  48. #1248
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    I'll post this again: my setup is 1 layer Stan's yellow tape. Schwalbe Racing Ralph's Snake Skin 2.25. Slime Pro sealant (IMO better than Stan's). I run anywhere from 20-28psi, 175lbs not a single burp or problem yet. Very little air loss over a week. Can't be happier!
    www.quinnphoto.smugmug.com
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    2012 Stumpy EVO 29er frame up build

  49. #1249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    Thanks. And to get things back on topic, my carbon rims arrived on Saturday and am building them up tonight with King hubs and Revolution spokes.
    "Son, The world needs ditchdiggers, too"-Ted Knight, Caddyshack

  50. #1250
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    Stans strips vs Bontrager

    If I already own stan flow strips, is there any reason to get bontrager strips for this rim? Are they wider, lighter, better?

    Thanks,

    john
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  51. #1251
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    Me too!

    Quote Originally Posted by utah joe View Post
    Standard Lefty front, DT240 rear. Sapium laser spoke in for the front, rear is lasers non drive side, DT race on the drive side. I use this wheelset for racing on both my SS and my scalpel, to I went with the DT240 rear because you can change the hub from 142x12 to 135 in 5min.
    I just scored a silver Hayes/Hugi/DT Swiss hub off fleabay for $50 landed. I'm going to upgrade that with a 36pt star ratchet. Also, I'm going to de-lace my front wheel for the silver Lefty hub. The ERD is similar to the hoops I already have, so I just think I need to score new brass nipples, and I'm in.

    Now, if I can just sell some more parts from the bin to raise $300 for the hoops....

    I can sell my old wheelset. I have a matching front wheel to my rear that's coming off from before the Lefty upgrade. That's gotta be worth a couple of hunnys.

  52. #1252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpenglow View Post
    If I already own stan flow strips, is there any reason to get bontrager strips for this rim? Are they wider, lighter, better?

    Thanks,

    john
    Well, the Bonty Rhythm strips certainly are lighter. The Stans rim strips are similar to what you would have left over after trimming a ghetto split-tube conversion. They would be about 50+ grams per wheel. The Bonty strips don't even register on my digital scale, so we're talking minimal grams compared to 100+ grams per wheelset between the two.

    BB

  53. #1253
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    OK, so I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of the wider rims from Light-Bicycle and build them up for my Scalpel 29er. I weight 210lbs and ride in Auburn, CA a lot so some minimal drops, burms, loose rocks and that kind of thing. I'm going with the Lefty hub up front of course and the new TRS+ hub from E13/Chub. That gives me a pretty big flange for strength and I plan on doing DT brass nipples and DT spokes. The question is on spokes. I'm struggling to decide between Champions, Comps or Super Comps.

    Does anyone have experience with Super Comps or Comps on a build like this? I'm not looking for bomb-proof heavy but I also don't want broken spokes every two weeks. Thoughts?

  54. #1254
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    Quote Originally Posted by wedge962005 View Post
    The question is on spokes. I'm struggling to decide between Champions, Comps or Super Comps.
    [...]
    Thoughts?
    Out of those choices, Comps.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  55. #1255
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    With such a stiff rim is it OK to use narrower than normal spoke gauge. For example going from supercomps to revolutions?
    M

  56. #1256
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    Quote Originally Posted by wedge962005 View Post
    I'm struggling to decide between Champions, Comps or Super Comps.

    Does anyone have experience with Super Comps or Comps on a build like this?
    I used Supercomps on my Flows as DT claim them to be their strongest spokes and they are nearly as light as Revolutions. I built my own wheels, so no guarentee of perfection by any means. I am heavy and have pounded them, having not broken any spokes in nearly two years. What the manufacturer says about them is ringing true so far. Good luck with it.

  57. #1257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated View Post
    With such a stiff rim is it OK to use narrower than normal spoke gauge. For example going from supercomps to revolutions?
    I am trying to decide what to do on this too. My rims are on their way and I am thinking of going for revos instead of comps. I have used supercomps before with success, but i am leaning to the revos this time
    Left blank on request

  58. #1258
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    I believe the bontrager strips are 35 grams each.

  59. #1259
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    Quote Originally Posted by wedge962005 View Post
    Does anyone have experience with Super Comps or Comps on a build like this? I'm not looking for bomb-proof heavy but I also don't want broken spokes every two weeks. Thoughts?
    Who is building the wheels?

  60. #1260
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    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    I believe the bontrager strips are 35 grams each.
    My wheels will be done on Tuesday and I will weigh mine before mounting.

  61. #1261
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    Sounds about right

    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    I believe the bontrager strips are 35 grams each.
    I bought a set for my Bonty Mustangs. I never could get the tire to seat on the rim right, and the tire leaked like crazy, so I gave up on tubeless.

    IIRC, Velox rim tape is like 15g.

  62. #1262
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    Please confirm spoke length with AmClassic hubs. I used the calculator at bikeschool.com:

    Spoke lengths (w/ wide rim, AmClassic hubs):
    Front left = 291.4mm. Use 291mm or 292mm??
    Front right = 292.2mm. Use 292mm?
    Rear left = 290.5mm. Use 290mm or 291mm?
    Rear right = 290.1mm. Use 290mm?

    "new" standard width rim:
    I don't know ERD - just sent email to Nancy.

    I have decided to build as follows:
    - new design standard width rim (~21mm inner)
    - AmClassic 130/225 hubs (15mm front, 142x12 rear)
    - DT revolution spokes all around (should I use supercomps for rear drive side?)
    - DT standard aluminum nipples in red.
    - build will be done by Bike+Sports in Austria.

    Comments welcome.
    Last edited by Motivated; 05-16-2012 at 05:24 AM.
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  63. #1263
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy V View Post
    The DT240's are quite spendy.
    Any thoughts/experience with the Novatech D881/D882 which are 15mm / 142x12.?
    This is one of their build options.
    Or is this no place to compromise?

    The DT rear is expensive...I was fortunate to get it at quite a discount. I have never used a novatech hubs, but I generally hear good things about them. For me I wanted to be able to go back and forth between my 135mm SS and my 142mm scalpel in 10min and it doesnt get much easier than the 240hub.

  64. #1264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy V View Post
    The DT240's are quite spendy.
    Any thoughts/experience with the Novatech D881/D882 which are 15mm / 142x12.?
    This is one of their build options.
    Or is this no place to compromise?
    Per Nancy, the D881/D882 are 600g per pair - they must be really stout. This nixed them from my consideration. At that resulting wheel weight I'd rather get AmClassic tubeless wheelset at 1600g, ~ $800. My goal is 1400g wheelset with good stiffness.
    M

  65. #1265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated View Post
    Per Nancy, the D881/D882 are 600g per pair - they must be really stout. This nixed them from my consideration. At that resulting wheel weight I'd rather get AmClassic tubeless wheelset at 1600g, ~ $800. My goal is 1400g wheelset with good stiffness.
    I don't think the American classic wheelset is in the same league as these carbon rims. I have 2 similar wheelsets, one with the American classic rims and one with these carbon rims and the carbon wheels are much stiffer.

  66. #1266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated View Post
    Please confirm spoke length with AmClassic hubs. I used the calculator at bikeschool.com:

    Spoke lengths (w/ wide rim, AmClassic hubs):
    Front left = 291.4mm. Use 291mm or 292mm??
    Front right = 292.2mm. Use 292mm?
    Rear left = 290.5mm. Use 290mm or 291mm?
    Rear right = 290.1mm. Use 290mm?

    "new" standard width rim:
    I don't know ERD - just sent email to Nancy.

    I have decided to build as follows:
    - new design standard width rim (~21mm inner)
    - AmClassic 130/225 hubs (15mm front, 142x12 rear)
    - DT revolution spokes all around (should I use supercomps for rear drive side?)
    - DT standard aluminum nipples in red.
    - build will be done by Bike+Sports in Austria.

    Comments welcome.
    My guy ordered one box of Revolutions at 291 and is going to use them on the front and non drive side.

    I think you can use the 291 on the entire wheelset. That is one of the knocks on the AC hubs, they were designed to save money on spokes not lateral stiffness.

  67. #1267
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    My rims arrived today! Actually yesterday but no one was home and they didn't leave them for me. I will snap pictures tonite and then more when they are built.
    I went with Supertsar Components hubs and DT comp spokes. Plan on running these with Bontrager rim strips.
    Left blank on request

  68. #1268
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    Mine showed up on Tuesday. They exceeded my expectations.



    32, 3K, Matte






    Laced up with DT Swiss 240 135mmx10 rear (w/36 ratchet), Hope Pro2 15mm TA front, DT Swiss comp spokes, alum nipples. No washers for nipples needed.

    Installed the bonty strips which fit perfectly and pumped up tubeless effortlessly

  69. #1269
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    jacksonj51, they look so sweet!

  70. #1270
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    they arrived and i am totally impressed. the quality is top notch!

    weigh in at 410gm and 420gm - little bummed about that but i needed them quickly and couldn't ask for hand selected versions. Nancy was super helpful and i would not hesitate to do it again!

    Quote Originally Posted by theHIP View Post
    My rims arrived today! Actually yesterday but no one was home and they didn't leave them for me. I will snap pictures tonite and then more when they are built.
    I went with Supertsar Components hubs and DT comp spokes. Plan on running these with Bontrager rim strips.
    Left blank on request

  71. #1271
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    3 hoops just arrived...

    3K Matte 29er wide hoopdeehoops

    Hoop 1: 397g

    Hoop 2: 397g

    Hoop3: 385g

    Upon quick inspection, they seem pretty nice cosmetically. Note: I did tell them to wait until some lighter ones came off the production line. I ended up waiting 2 weeks to get the 3 hoops mentioned above. I felt like it was worth it so that I didn't end up with 3 in the 400g+ range. No biggy. I only weigh 150 lbs fwiw..

    I will be building them up with:

    American Classic Hubs
    Revolution Spokes (Double crossed in front and rear most likely)
    Red nips
    Stans 25mm yellow tape

    Will post wheel weights once completed.

  72. #1272
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    I'm ordering wide hoops (30 ext, 23 "lip", 25.72 int). Are the folks here that are ordering the wide ones getting ones that are SOOOO wide? That's got to be heavy, right? I've seen on this thread that the wide ones have been lighter than the narrow ones? Counterintuitive to say the least.

    I'm trying to decide on finish, among other things, and J51, your pics have helped me make my decision about which finish I'm going with. Thank you. I knew I was going to go w/ matte, but the 3K matte looks sweet, and I don't get super-amped on how stuff looks very easily.

    I have tried to go tubeless 2 or 3 times on 2 or 3 sets of wheels, with a myriad of tires, and my result have been a mixed bag of failure and bad luck. I plan to stay the course on this set.

    This thread has been invaluable in guiding me in the right direction. I plan to do what I can to help advance the cause.

  73. #1273
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    After reading all the good experiences about these rims i am planning on buying a set.

    To get to the nice trails i have to transport my bike on a bikecarrier. The rims are ratchet to the carrier.

    I was wondering if this does any damage to the carbon rims. Anybody using carbon rims and a bike carrier? What is your experience with it?

    I mean a system like this:

    Last edited by sand0kan; 05-18-2012 at 09:33 AM.

  74. #1274
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    I've use a bike carrier, no problems. It's a Bob Ratchet kind of roof carrier

  75. #1275
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    i got 4 rims a few weeks ago. the first pair are built now and ready for the first ride. i swapped them onto some wheels that had stans crest on them. straight swap, same spokes (dt comps x32) but new nipples. the spokes looked a bit too long on the front wheel but they worked out. the rear was almost perfect, with just a little spoke protruding out of the top of the nipple.
    i've used bonty rhythm strips, american classic vavles, bronson front and racing ralph snakeskin 2.25 rear. pumped up with a track pump with a nice loud popping noise as they seated. i'm glad i used the bonty strips, i think the fit would have been loose otherwise.
    i'll see how i like these before i decide what to do with the 2nd pair. i have it in mind to build them with xtr hubs and lighter spokes....supercomp/revolution/cx rays???

  76. #1276
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    Nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by bert-prologue View Post
    i got 4 rims a few weeks ago. the first pair are built now and ready for the first ride. i swapped them onto some wheels that had stans crest on them. straight swap, same spokes (dt comps x32) but new nipples. the spokes looked a bit too long on the front wheel but they worked out. the rear was almost perfect, with just a little spoke protruding out of the top of the nipple.
    i've used bonty rhythm strips, american classic vavles, bronson front and racing ralph snakeskin 2.25 rear. pumped up with a track pump with a nice loud popping noise as they seated. i'm glad i used the bonty strips, i think the fit would have been loose otherwise.
    i'll see how i like these before i decide what to do with the 2nd pair. i have it in mind to build them with xtr hubs and lighter spokes....supercomp/revolution/cx rays???
    Be sure to chime in with your experiences with them.

    So, so far...

    Apart from a few early on that didn't past the end user (or builder) Quality Control....

    1 failure from a curb strike?

    Any other failures on the trail?

  77. #1277
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    Quote Originally Posted by sand0kan View Post
    After reading all the good experiences about these rims i am planning on buying a set.

    To get to the nice trails i have to transport my bike on a bikecarrier. The rims are ratchet to the carrier.

    I was wondering if this does any damage to the carbon rims. Anybody using carbon rims and a bike carrier? What is your experience with it?

    I mean a system like this:

    No damage.

  78. #1278
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Be sure to chime in with your experiences with them.

    So, so far...

    Apart from a few early on that didn't past the end user (or builder) Quality Control....

    1 failure from a curb strike?

    Any other failures on the trail?
    My failure to buy a set yet.

  79. #1279
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlackBoy View Post
    First ride on my rims today. Approx 32psi, I could possibly run a nudge lower, but not too much. I could never run less that 32 on my archs. Not due to burping, but due to tire roll. Vague handling and many many many sketchy moments. But I am a fairly agressive XC rider/racer. I weighed 80ish at the time, sitting much closer to 90 at the mo tho.
    With the new rims (the wider 30mm ones) and a single layer of stans tape, TL ready 2.25 racing raplh and 2.25 tl nobbly nic, they bead up easy peasy, fairly tight to get on the rim and takes a concerted push to pop them off the bead when deflated. I'm entirely confident in not burping these bad boys
    Would you attribute the reduced tire roll to the wider rim? I have a big problem with tire roll, especially when running tubeless and think that the narrower Stans 355 (19 mm internal), MMX or Crest (21 internal) may be the problem, These wider rims with( 23 mm internal) seem like the answer. also did you notice a difference in lateral stiffness vs. alloy rims? How about vertical compliance?

  80. #1280
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    1 pair ordered today. I sold a few things, got some cash in the bike bank, and dropped it on a set of wide 29er rims. I got a Hugi hub ready to go, gonna de-lace my SpeedDisc/Lefty hub wheel for the front. I can probably re-use the spokes, but not the end of the world if I have to buy new ones.

    This is going to free up a set of WTB SpeedDisc/Real Hub wheels to sell on craigslist, or... maybe I'll move that wheelset over to my hardtail and sell the Bontrager Mustang/XT rear/Specialized Stout 9mm Thru-axle wheelset. Either way, I think that will pay for a third or half of the carbon hoops.

    Now, the other missing ingredient is the 36pt star ratchets for the Hugi hub.

    I'm gonna be pimp-rollin' my wheels this summer!

  81. #1281
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    My 1st pair of wide 29er rims went so well, I ordered another pair for the single speed. Ordered on May 8th and they were delivered on May 18th...wow! I went 3k instead of UD this time. Compared to my first pair of rims, these are slightly heavier (385/389g vs 401/402g), but the bead and inside rim face is more even and has a nicer finished.

  82. #1282
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    My 1st pair of wide 29er rims went so well, I ordered another pair for the single speed. Ordered on May 8th and they were delivered on May 18th...wow! I went 3k instead of UD this time. Compared to my first pair of rims, these are slightly heavier (385/389g vs 401/402g), but the bead and inside rim face is more even and has a nicer finished.
    Is the UD always lighter? Are the weave finishes just an additional cosmetic layer (provides no structural benefit)?
    M

  83. #1283
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated View Post
    Is the UD always lighter? Are the weave finishes just an additional cosmetic layer (provides no structural benefit)?
    I'm not sure UD is always lighter. Nancy said the 3k is slightly stronger, but I think the different weaves are mostly cosmetic. The 3k does look more interesting than the UD.

  84. #1284
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    I'm not sure UD is always lighter. Nancy said the 3k is slightly stronger, but I think the different weaves are mostly cosmetic. The 3k does look more interesting than the UD.
    I went with 3k matte finish. I like the look, and I figure Matte will hide dull spots from racks, and rock marks a bit better.

    I'm 205 pounds these days, but I get by with light XC grade kinda stuff. I went with the wider rim for the bigger tire footprint, lower tire pressure and stiffer wheel. I figured I'm still shedding like 60 grams per wheel is good weight savings already. I'm looking to shed weight, but also gain performance.

    I bought a small roll of Stan's Tape, and already have some sealant. I might even try tubeless again.

  85. #1285
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    Hey folks I've got some chris king hubs on the way (20 & 142x12). Obviously I'm building a set of new wheels and I'm considering the wider 29" light-bicycle rim and the new stans arch EX rim.

    The carbon rims are lighter and supposedly very stiff, but I am mainly concerned about the quality of these rims setup tubeless compared to the stans.

    My current stans flow setup seems to be very strong, on more than one occasion I have hit the rim severely (or at least thought I had) and upon inspection no damage, I use anywhere from 2.2 to 2.5 sized tires on my rims and plan to do the same on the chinese carbon rims.
    Pivot mach 6!

  86. #1286
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel RW View Post
    Hey folks I've got some chris king hubs on the way (20 & 142x12). Obviously I'm building a set of new wheels and I'm considering the wider 29" light-bicycle rim and the new stans arch EX rim.

    The carbon rims are lighter and supposedly very stiff, but I am mainly concerned about the quality of these rims setup tubeless compared to the stans.

    My current stans flow setup seems to be very strong, on more than one occasion I have hit the rim severely (or at least thought I had) and upon inspection no damage, I use anywhere from 2.2 to 2.5 sized tires on my rims and plan to do the same on the chinese carbon rims.
    Having done all sorts of tubeless the past few years (ghetto, suspect, non-advised, NoTubes via Flows and Crests, etc....) I can attest to the light-bicycle AM carbon rims working very well with the Bontrager Rhythm strips. Others report doing fine without the strips, but I went with the plastic strips (they don't weigh much of anything) and mounting a tire (Nobby Nics) required tire irons. Very tight and secure which allowed easy air up with a floor pump. I've been bashing them on my Dos Niner and RIP 9 ever since I got them with no burps or problems. I also have a pair of the Roval carbon wheels with the beefier front hub to compare. Both work extremely well and the light-bicycle (although I don't have a full season or more of use to give full blessing) are worth your consideration for the price. With the Bonty strips, going tubeless seems to be fine and dandy. That being said - I have not mounted up a pair of not tubeless ready tires to compare these carbon rims with that sort of tire (which I know works fine on NoTubes rims).

    BB

  87. #1287
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Having done all sorts of tubeless the past few years (ghetto, suspect, non-advised, NoTubes via Flows and Crests, etc....) I can attest to the light-bicycle AM carbon rims working very well with the Bontrager Rhythm strips. Others report doing fine without the strips, but I went with the plastic strips (they don't weigh much of anything) and mounting a tire (Nobby Nics) required tire irons. Very tight and secure which allowed easy air up with a floor pump. I've been bashing them on my Dos Niner and RIP 9 ever since I got them with no burps or problems. I also have a pair of the Roval carbon wheels with the beefier front hub to compare. Both work extremely well and the light-bicycle (although I don't have a full season or more of use to give full blessing) are worth your consideration for the price. With the Bonty strips, going tubeless seems to be fine and dandy. That being said - I have not mounted up a pair of not tubeless ready tires to compare these carbon rims with that sort of tire (which I know works fine on NoTubes rims).

    BB
    Glad to see they're working out for you. I remember you were very skeptical. I have a couple of buds who tried to talk me out of it with they typical fear baiting, and the 'you get what you paid for' line. I'm hoping to prove them wrong.

  88. #1288
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    So who is selling the latest and greatest FATMAN Clyde worthy wide carbon rim these days, I think I need to lay down some moolah for a set of the stronger 3k weave variety. Also, what is the ERD on these? 603mm, 605mm? I have a Hadley hub with an old Salsa Delgado that could stand to lose a tube and flexyness in the wheelbuild. Rims were used and free on that build, but they just don't hold up well under my weight in rocks, very, very soft rim, dings way too easy.

  89. #1289
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyBoy View Post
    So who is selling the latest and greatest FATMAN Clyde worthy wide carbon rim these days, I think I need to lay down some moolah for a set of the stronger 3k weave variety. Also, what is the ERD on these? 603mm, 605mm? I have a Hadley hub with an old Salsa Delgado that could stand to lose a tube and flexyness in the wheelbuild. Rims were used and free on that build, but they just don't hold up well under my weight in rocks, very, very soft rim, dings way too easy.
    If you dented easily some rims, whenever the rims is, you will probably do some cracks on carbon hoops, whenever the brand is... This thing said, these chinease carbon hoops are incredibles!

    mat g

  90. #1290
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    Quote Originally Posted by mat g View Post
    If you dented easily some rims, whenever the rims is, you will probably do some cracks on carbon hoops, whenever the brand is... This thing said, these chinease carbon hoops are incredibles!

    I've dented a couple, but none that badly. I'm hoping the bigger air volume will help support things.

    Oh man, my Bontrager Mustangs (rim brake) bottom out super easy. Those tall sidewalls mean I have to run a few extra PSI to keep them from pinch flatting.

  91. #1291
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyBoy View Post
    So who is selling the latest and greatest FATMAN Clyde worthy wide carbon rim these days, I think I need to lay down some moolah for a set of the stronger 3k weave variety. Also, what is the ERD on these? 603mm, 605mm? I have a Hadley hub with an old Salsa Delgado that could stand to lose a tube and flexyness in the wheelbuild. Rims were used and free on that build, but they just don't hold up well under my weight in rocks, very, very soft rim, dings way too easy.
    I've got the beefed up wide rims running Hans Dampf tires on them, and they offer great protection to the rims, even around 18-20 psi. I've thrown some sizable rocks on to them while riding, but all I got were superficial scratches. If you are really worried, buy 3 or 4 rims and keep a backup. They seem pretty durable, and the width, tubeless performance, stiffness, weight and price put them way over the top. I'm already considering ordering two more rims, even though I don't need them right now, just in case they become hard to get.

  92. #1292
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    first ride done.... i don't think there is any possibilty i'll buy alu rims again. at the price of these rims its a fairly cheap performance upgrade. i'm no expert but i know the bike feels better. using the bonty strips, i could tell they were a good fit when i mounted the tyres i have every confidence in them. overall they feel more solid than flows and nearly as light as crests (i have/had both). we'll see how they go long term but, again at this price i'd be happy with a year.

  93. #1293
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyBoy View Post
    So who is selling the latest and greatest FATMAN Clyde worthy wide carbon rim these days, I think I need to lay down some moolah for a set of the stronger 3k weave variety. Also, what is the ERD on these? 603mm, 605mm? I have a Hadley hub with an old Salsa Delgado that could stand to lose a tube and flexyness in the wheelbuild. Rims were used and free on that build, but they just don't hold up well under my weight in rocks, very, very soft rim, dings way too easy.
    Sounds like you need the real deal ENVE AM rims. From my experience, I'm pretty sure they'll take whatever beating you can give them.

  94. #1294
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2TurnersNotEnough View Post
    Sounds like you need the real deal ENVE AM rims. From my experience, I'm pretty sure they'll take whatever beating you can give them.
    Sure... just put it on Fo's credit card for me, will ya? Enve's are nice, but I'ma cheep biatch.

  95. #1295
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    True...

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyBoy View Post
    Sure... just put it on Fo's credit card for me, will ya? Enve's are nice, but I'ma cheep biatch.
    Enves may be nicer, but if I held out for Enves, I would never own carbon rims.

    ... maybe when I win Lotto, I'll get some Enve rims.

  96. #1296
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Enves may be nicer, but if I held out for Enves, I would never own carbon rims.

    ... maybe when I win Lotto, I'll get some Enve rims.
    This is where I'm at. Huge respect for Enve as a company. I use their handlebars. I'd love to use their rims, and I'm sure they are as bombproof as can be, but they blow my wheel budget out of the water. I sprung for CK hubs for my Chinese carbon build... maybe one day those hubs will see Enve rims... after I get a real job.

  97. #1297
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    I guess I forgot to put the facetious smiley in there.

    I think Fo's credit cards would implode if there was ever a charge from Enve on them. At least until he rode a set and couldn't live without them.

    After I finish up the 2 bike projects that I have going right now, I hope to build up a set of the wide Nancy rims for my SS later this summer. I can't afford another set of Enve wheels. I hope Enve is working on a way to get their production costs to the point where they're only 2x as much as the Light-Bicycle rims and still maintain the construction quality. I think makes the decision to get the US made rims more likely.

  98. #1298
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    I came!!! Er...i mean my wheels came. 3D matte looks great and both rims were under 400g. I went with the beefy Hadley hub but still came in at 1642 for the set with tape and valves. Review to follow after first ride!

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    ^^^^^
    Really?

  100. #1300
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdoft View Post
    I came!!! Er...i mean my wheels came. 3D matte looks great and both rims were under 400g. I went with the beefy Hadley hub but still came in at 1642 for the set with tape and valves. Review to follow after first ride!
    did you get the Clyde plus Nancy wheels at 420 grams each? What about the rest of the build for the wheels to get it to 1642 gr.. That is outstanding, I wonder what a set of 240S hubs would build up at?

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