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  1. #5951
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    Quote Originally Posted by SandSpur View Post
    I cant tell if this statement was made in jest or if youre actually serious..
    There was very little seriousness in that entire post. Except the D-bag comment, of course.

    Besides we all know Ti skewers are way more flexy than steel skewers and would not contribute to faster speed.

  2. #5952
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    Just got my LB 35mm hookless 29ers. Took a week and a half to get the "We shipped them". Took about one week to get here. Yay!

  3. #5953
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    Hey man...I'm the one having fun here. No worries on my end. Just having a good time with how wound up and mean you got over the weight of bike hubs in an internet forum.
    lol
    So now after you went off on a 400 word post explaining all the reasons why weight doesn't matter after you brought it up in the first place, I'm the one who is wound up and mean?
    Good stuff... couldn't make it up... do you have a "mean people suck" bumper sticker?

    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    DTs are easily over 100G lighter. I9s? I stand corrected...the newer torch hubs they use in the wheels they build are in fact lighter, but the Classics are not. So, I'll concede defeat to your clear superior bicycle hub weight knowledge.
    The point is you don't know what you're talking about (still) and are slinging crap out without taking 30 seconds to check the facts.
    "DTs are easily over 100g lighter" is wrong... and it only takes a couple of clicks to show that. You're just shooting from the hip with numbers, off base, and crying about getting called on it.
    Get over it... it's really not that big a deal. If you don't actually know how much lighter they are, which you clearly don't, either don't say anything or don't say "easily over 100g" easy stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    Good rule to live by: Give people the benefit of the doubt. Most people are good and well intentioned unless they so obviously show you otherwise...kinda like you.
    I agree with that, which is why I wonder why someone would throw out BS that is easy to check and verify is wrong. Lazy? Who knows? I don't really care, but I correct the facts, so someone else doesn't see your misinformed claims and take them as fact.

    Quote Originally Posted by WoodstockMTB View Post
    Just kiddin'
    again... hilarious... your rule to live by doesn't apply to you. Can't make this s**t up.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  4. #5954
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mathrips View Post
    Just got my LB 35mm hookless 29ers. Took a week and a half to get the "We shipped them". Took about one week to get here. Yay!
    I purchased a 35external/30mm internal hookless 29er wheelset 2 weeks ago and they haven't shipped yet. 3 days ago the rims were "still on painting line, we have prepared hubs, spokes & nipples ready". Hoping painting is another term for layup and the wheels are built quickly. The new bike is delayed, too, so it could work out OK.

  5. #5955
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mathrips View Post
    Just got my LB 35mm hookless 29ers. Took a week and a half to get the "We shipped them". Took about one week to get here. Yay!
    When did you order? And did you order the matte ud finish (I heard those ship quicker) I ordered mine on the 10th and haven't received the email yet. Mine are matte 3k

    Thanks,

    Matt

  6. #5956
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    Quote Originally Posted by geeride7 View Post
    I purchased a 35external/30mm internal hookless 29er wheelset 2 weeks ago and they haven't shipped yet. 3 days ago the rims were "still on painting line, we have prepared hubs, spokes & nipples ready". Hoping painting is another term for layup and the wheels are built quickly. The new bike is delayed, too, so it could work out OK.
    I ordered a wheel set on the16th and am hanging out to get them as well. Did you request a status update on the wheels or did one come through automatically?

  7. #5957
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt in Temecula View Post
    When did you order? And did you order the matte ud finish (I heard those ship quicker) I ordered mine on the 10th and haven't received the email yet. Mine are matte 3k

    Thanks,

    Matt
    Mathrips just got his hookless 29ers on 5/28. Took a week and a half to get the ship notification. Then a week to ship. When did Mathrips order them?
    A: A long time ago
    B: The day before yesterday
    C: 2 and a half weeks before 5/28
    D: all of the above
    E: A & C only

    MATHRIPS!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack0207 View Post
    I ordered a wheel set on the16th and am hanging out to get them as well. Did you request a status update on the wheels or did one come through automatically?
    I ordered on the 14th, Matte UD finish, and asked for a status update.

  8. #5958
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    100 pages ago I got my rims but it was still winter here. They are the XC ones and they ride great. Have a couple hundred hard KM off road on them and they are flawless.

    I down't really notice better cornering, or acceleration prob cause I had high end aluminum rims but wow does the bike fly in the air now. I have so much more flickability once I leave the ground. It feels like the bike is 10 pounds lighter when I bunny hop, and wheelie drop. Unreal difference!

    Amazing rims LB.

  9. #5959
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    I ordered matt finish on the 8th. I did not ask for status updates. I just left them to do their job. They emailed me when the rims shipped, just like the other posts on here said they would. I figured asking them to stop work and send me updates would just make it take longer to get my rims done.

  10. #5960
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Mine just arrived, more than a month with customs stop. Really impressed about the rims; wide and light; very good finished.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1401878902.498466.jpg
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1401879005.120087.jpg

  11. #5961
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    Got a set of the new 29" hookless 24mm inside, 30mm outside rims, delivered today.
    Weight is 405 and 406gr.
    UD Glossy, finish is very nice

    Sendt fra min SM-N9005 med Tapatalk

  12. #5962
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrul View Post
    Mine just arrived, more than a month with customs stop. Really impressed about the rims; wide and light; very good finished.

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    What are people measuring ERD for the new 30mm internal 29" rims?

  13. #5963
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    My LB Wide rims started to crack at the nipples. They are almost 2 years old and did not ride them very much. They were build by one of the best wheelbuilders from our country.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-imag0122.jpg

  14. #5964
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    Wheels are done!! 2 cross, Sapim Laser spokes, DT Swiss Gold nipples. 2 white spokes at valves for some pop. Hadley hubs, 30mm hookless rims. Front wheel at 761g, rear 937g for total 1698 that's with valves and tape installed. I will see how they compare to my i9 torch wheels.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-p1060485.jpg  

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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-p1060484.jpg  


  15. #5965
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt Disney's Frozen Head View Post
    I, for one, am glad that you post here often as you're an incredibly knowledgeable person - esp in regard to wheelbuilding. But sometimes you come across as a HUGE douchenozzle.
    Hey, and he won't even admit when he's wrong, so he's got that going for him too!

  16. #5966
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbodog View Post
    Hey, and he won't even admit when he's wrong, so he's got that going for him too!
    wow

    it sucks that you still have red ass over a 5 year old conversation, so much so that you dug it up to waste space with personal digs.

    get over it.

    and thanks for the neg rep!
    awwww... hipocrisy is cute too.

    oh... and you don't have to look any further than this thread to see where i misunderstood something and realized it, so retracted my comment and apologized... of course you wouldn't be interested in facts or anything.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  17. #5967
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    wow

    it sucks that you still have red ass over a 5 year old conversation, so much so that you dug it up to waste space with personal digs.

    get over it.

    and thanks for the neg rep!
    awwww... hipocrisy is cute too.

    oh... and you don't have to look any further than this thread to see where i misunderstood something and realized it, so retracted my comment and apologized... of course you wouldn't be interested in facts or anything.
    Awww you're cute.

    Anyone can read the linked thread and see my point.

    I'm done here.

  18. #5968
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    Wheels are done!! 2 cross, Sapim Laser spokes, DT Swiss Gold nipples. 2 white spokes at valves for some pop. Hadley hubs, 30mm hookless rims. Front wheel at 761g, rear 937g for total 1698 that's with valves and tape installed. I will see how they compare to my i9 torch wheels.
    Those look sweet!

    Could be my next set!

  19. #5969
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by turbodog View Post
    Anyone can read the linked thread and see my point.
    I'll hazard a guess that you're the only one who still cares.
    Quote Originally Posted by turbodog View Post
    I'm done here.
    Good... don't let the door bump your ass on the way out.
    Your valuable contributions will be missed. *sniff*
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  20. #5970
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    Any 300+ lb monsters running any LB rims? I'm especially interested in the 35mm hookless. I have gained a lot of confidence in carbon parts but was still wondering if there was a big guinea pig out there for LB carbon?

  21. #5971
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    Yea meltingfeather can sometimes come across as a "know it all". I remember when I posted about DT Swiss Aero Comp spokes and I stated my local shop said they were such a great spoke. He replied that they were nothing more than a bladed Comp spoke and way over priced. I was offended he said that thinking my shop knows best, turns out he was right on the money!! They were over priced bladed comp spokes nothing more, DT Swiss fed this marketing bullcrap to my shop and they fed it to me.

    He may russell your feathers sometimes, But as I learn from guys like meltingfeather you start to appreciate all the info he offers. Thanks!!

  22. #5972
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    I would look at the Derby 35mm HD rims for your weight. More money but worth it!!

  23. #5973
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    deleted post
    Last edited by Snipe; 06-06-2014 at 10:38 AM.

  24. #5974
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    Quote Originally Posted by prowheelbuilder View Post
    Regarding center flange comment, center flange still requires dropout width. Example: same the same shell is used and the dropout varies from 135 to 142. The drive side dimension will roughly stay the same however the non drive side offset would change by 7mm. The 135 would need much more dish and the 142 would need virtually none.

    As for where ERD is measured too and me referring to it as the nipple seat, I have included a diagram to better depict why I refer to it as the nipple seat http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/whe...-width-erd.jpg .

    Regarding the .75 thought process, If the .75 is not added then the spoke stands a chance of being .75 below the head of the nipple. I would rather the margin of error be on the long side than the short side. The possible negative effects of the short side are as follows:
    1. The thread moves closer to the base of the nipple as this happens the bracing angle is more likely to occur at the thread which will cause premature failure of the spoke. This effect will vary based on the actual bracing angle of the spoke and the diameter of the relief of the nipple.
    2. The head of the nipple is typically only 2.5mm. If none of the spoke engaged the head of the nipple the full load of the spoke would be supported by nothing more than the material the nipple was made from and as scoring occurs at the base of the nipple than premature nipple failure is much more likely to occur. The only part of the nipple that is doing any work is the 2.5mm above nipple bed of the rim. So if I had a choice of having 1.75mm of interface at this point versus 2.5, Ill take the 2.5.

    As for the spoke protruding above the head of the nipple, there is no down fall as long as you are working with a double wall rim and that you don't run out of thread.

    Regarding interface of the nipple at the slotted section being useless. Actually it is not. Yes it does not have the same holding force as the non slotted portion of the nipple however it is only diminished by about 56%. A little of something is allot better than a whole lot of nothing.

    The video tutorials will cover the ERD measurements. I already have one but there is no room on the current calc to show it. Here it is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoJJI7FRZLk .
    FWIW I just finished my 650b LB 35mm wide wheel build. DT 350s and revolution spokes. Put all the data in both the DT Swiss and the PWB calculators. The DT calculator lengths were all approx 2mm shorter than the PWB. I went with the DT since the hubs were DT and they should have the most accurate data. Well at build time the spokes were too short by 2-3 mm...barely making the ID let alone the nipple seat and certainly not the nipple slot. I took the revolutions to 120 to see if the stretch made much difference but not near enough. I had to buy longer spokes for the front non disc side and then used 16mm DT brass nips on the rear instead of the 12mm alloy I had intended. Not perfect but will do.

    So why the difference in the two calculators? And there seems to be a lot of opinion on spoke tension. For the LB carbon rims what is the desired spoke tension? Does that figure depend on the spoke gauge or the spoke length. On my build I brought the drive side tension to 100 which was purely my own middle of the road judgement after seeing figures tossed about from 90 to 130. Maybe 100 is too low?

    thanks

  25. #5975
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    FWIW I just finished my 650b LB 35mm wide wheel build. DT 350s and revolution spokes. Put all the data in both the DT Swiss and the PWB calculators. The DT calculator lengths were all approx 2mm shorter than the PWB. I went with the DT since the hubs were DT and they should have the most accurate data. Well at build time the spokes were too short by 2-3 mm...barely making the ID let alone the nipple seat and certainly not the nipple slot. I took the revolutions to 120 to see if the stretch made much difference but not near enough. I had to buy longer spokes for the front non disc side and then used 16mm DT brass nips on the rear instead of the 12mm alloy I had intended. Not perfect but will do.
    Did you measure the ERD or plug in a reported number from somewhere?
    It's a simple calculation and DT's calculator is dead on. PWB calculator is garbage. It makes behind the scenes adjustments that it does not disclose. It's a coincidence that it may have been right in this particular application.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    So why the difference in the two calculators? And there seems to be a lot of opinion on spoke tension. For the LB carbon rims what is the desired spoke tension? Does that figure depend on the spoke gauge or the spoke length. On my build I brought the drive side tension to 100 which was purely my own middle of the road judgement after seeing figures tossed about from 90 to 130. Maybe 100 is too low?

    thanks
    100-110 kgf is fine.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  26. #5976
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    ^ this.
    And, you should preferably always measure the ERD yourself.
    12 Anthem X29
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    07 Epic Marathon carbon
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  27. #5977
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    So why the difference in the two calculators?
    Because the PWB calculator makes adjustments to the true calculation behind the scenes that you can't see and which they don't disclose... arbitrary additions of assumed dimensions to the actual calculated length.
    The bottom line is that it was a coincidence that the PWB calculator was closer in your case. It was because of an input error, most likely you used a reported ERD value that was smaller than actual and since PWB arbitrarily adds to the calculated spoke length, their result was closer..
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  28. #5978
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    Because the PWB calculator makes adjustments to the true calculation behind the scenes that you can't see and which they don't disclose... arbitrary additions of assumed dimensions to the actual calculated length.
    The bottom line is that it was a coincidence that the PWB calculator was closer in your case. It was because of an input error, most likely you used a reported ERD value that was smaller than actual and since PWB arbitrarily adds to the calculated spoke length, their result was closer..
    It would appear that the only way to be sure of the ERD is to measure it yourself. When it was apparent that the spokes were short I should have measured it and determined if that was the problem...I didn't. I just got on with the wheel build. I made the assumption that since these wheels are built in metal molds that they should be pretty accurate. I assume there is no freehand step in the manufacture process. So where would the dimension variations come as compared to the manufacturers spec. Variation in dimension between molds? I also assumed that the hub data in the two calculators was accurate...poor assumption maybe?

    As to the calculators being more transparent, I would agree that it would be better if there were descriptions of exactly where the spoke length is calculated to so that you could make your own adjustments. Again I assumed that the DT calculator would take the spoke length to the nipple slot but it doesn't say this that I saw anywhere. So where in fact do they calculate it to...nipple seat?

    Anyway, I have another set of rims coming and I will wait till I have them in my hand and measure my own ERD and see how it compares to spec. thanks for the input MF. appreciated.

  29. #5979
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    It would appear that the only way to be sure of the ERD is to measure it yourself. When it was apparent that the spokes were short I should have measured it and determined if that was the problem...I didn't. I just got on with the wheel build. I made the assumption that since these wheels are built in metal molds that they should be pretty accurate. I assume there is no freehand step in the manufacture process. So where would the dimension variations come as compared to the manufacturers spec. Variation in dimension between molds?
    It's not so much variation between rims as people not understanding and measuring ERD correctly (as it is used in the calculation). It is kind of shocking how many people that you would think understand the calculation do not. The conversation above is an example.
    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    I also assumed that the hub data in the two calculators was accurate...poor assumption maybe?
    You have to be careful anytime you use dimensions you didn't measure. DT's database for DT products is expectedly accurate. For others it can be spotty.
    I'm pretty sure I remember confirming that the dimensions in the PWB calculator for a very common hub (Hope Pro 2) were incorrect, which is kind of surprising given the ease of finding accurate dimensions online and also measuring, though their backward, Mavic-style use of locknut-to-flange has to be converted.
    The PWB calculator is pretty worthless all around. It seems like they just duplicated Mavic's online calculator, and of course got a product equally confusing and ridiculous.
    There are much better tools.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    IAs to the calculators being more transparent, I would agree that it would be better if there were descriptions of exactly where the spoke length is calculated to so that you could make your own adjustments. Again I assumed that the DT calculator would take the spoke length to the nipple slot but it doesn't say this that I saw anywhere. So where in fact do they calculate it to...nipple seat?
    They do tell you... sort of. In the instructions for measuring ERD on the "Help" page they describe (in a so so translation) how it is measured. By the calculation ERD has one definition: the diameter of the circle made by the spoke ends in a built wheel. It is pretty universally accepted that between the bottom of the slot and the end of the nipple is ideal, so that's what should be used for the measurements.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    IAnyway, I have another set of rims coming and I will wait till I have them in my hand and measure my own ERD and see how it compares to spec. thanks for the input MF. appreciated.
    Use the instructions on Roger Musson's website. Forget PWB.
    Last edited by meltingfeather; 06-07-2014 at 11:51 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  30. #5980
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    How are folks setting up tubeless on the 27mm hookless rims? I'm having a very hard time with mine. I'm using maxxis ikon 2.2s exo (not tubeless ready). I started with one layer of Stan's tape and had zero luck. Tried inflating a tube to set one side of the bead, but the tire would fall right back into the channel when the tube was deflated. I added a layer of gorilla tape, still no go. Another layer of gorilla tape finally let me air the tires up, but they'd still fall into the channel as soon as the pressure dropped. I finally got it set by inflating with no valve core, sticking my finger over the empty valve to keep pressure, then quickly and frantically screwing in the valve core before the air rushed out. It was a pain in the garage and left me less than confident in how well the rim would retain the tire.

    Do I need to switch to tubeless ready tires? I've ran these types of tires are on Stan's rims for the last couple of years with zero issues. I know Stan's are different, but I didn't expect to have this much trouble...

  31. #5981
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    I had to problem with my 30mm hookless with Ignitors Tires. I always remove the valve stem core. With my compressor and my air blow nozzle with rubber tip, just use bursts of high pressure and every tire seats in seconds. Reinstall valve core, works perfect every time !!

  32. #5982
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    I have the 27mm LB hookless with one layer of Orange Seal tape (same as stans). No problems with a Maxxis DHF 2.3 TR, DHR2 2.3 TR, and an Ardent 2.4 exo non-TR. Seated quick and easy with a compressor, with the valve stems in. Using sealant and I paint the bead with sealant upon inflation (creature of habit, always done this).

  33. #5983
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    I do have that same ikon 2.2 exo non-tr sitting on the shelf. If i get a chance soon, I'll see if its as problematic as yours.

  34. #5984
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    I have an Ikon 2.35 exo non-tr mounted on a 27 mm hookless rim. With one layer of Stan's tape. Used 1 CO2 cartridge to seat, but it stayed seated when depressurized.

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

  35. #5985
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechniKal View Post
    How are folks setting up tubeless on the 27mm hookless rims? I'm having a very hard time with mine. I'm using maxxis ikon 2.2s exo (not tubeless ready). I started with one layer of Stan's tape and had zero luck. Tried inflating a tube to set one side of the bead, but the tire would fall right back into the channel when the tube was deflated. I added a layer of gorilla tape, still no go. Another layer of gorilla tape finally let me air the tires up, but they'd still fall into the channel as soon as the pressure dropped. I finally got it set by inflating with no valve core, sticking my finger over the empty valve to keep pressure, then quickly and frantically screwing in the valve core before the air rushed out. It was a pain in the garage and left me less than confident in how well the rim would retain the tire.

    Do I need to switch to tubeless ready tires? I've ran these types of tires are on Stan's rims for the last couple of years with zero issues. I know Stan's are different, but I didn't expect to have this much trouble...
    Same here with my 27mm hookless rims. When originally set up, I finally got them seated with 1 layer of stan's tape and careful rotational positioning of tyre on rim, soap and water, using air compressor, and lots of patience.

    Just had the back tyre off to tweak the spoke tension - same problem remounting, so added 1 layer of gorilla tape with success in about 30 seconds.

    Using Nobby nick on front, racing Ralph rear, both 2.25 snake skin Evo.

  36. #5986
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    Quote Originally Posted by miccc99 View Post
    Same here with my 27mm hookless rims. When originally set up, I finally got them seated with 1 layer of stan's tape and careful rotational positioning of tyre on rim, soap and water, using air compressor, and lots of patience.

    Just had the back tyre off to tweak the spoke tension - same problem remounting, so added 1 layer of gorilla tape with success in about 30 seconds.

    Using Nobby nick on front, racing Ralph rear, both 2.25 snake skin Evo.
    From my recent experience with the 27mm Hookless, I first attempted to mount up a non-TR Ardent using a compressor/soap/water. I had no luck attempting to mount it - removed valve cores, added another layer of tape, you name it.

    Second attempt I mounted up Specialized TR-ready tires I had laying around (Renegade and Ground Control) and they literally aired up on the first attempt - using just a floor pump and soap/water!

    With the Spesh tires it was definitely the easiest tubeless mounting experience I have had to date. That said, I will probably re-attempt the non-TR Ardent at a later date. I'm thinking one more layer of tape would be the ticket.

  37. #5987
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0riarty View Post
    From my recent experience with the 27mm Hookless, I first attempted to mount up a non-TR Ardent using a compressor/soap/water. I had no luck attempting to mount it - removed valve cores, added another layer of tape, you name it.

    Second attempt I mounted up Specialized TR-ready tires I had laying around (Renegade and Ground Control) and they literally aired up on the first attempt - using just a floor pump and soap/water!

    With the Spesh tires it was definitely the easiest tubeless mounting experience I have had to date. That said, I will probably re-attempt the non-TR Ardent at a later date. I'm thinking one more layer of tape would be the ticket.
    "With the Spesh tires it was definitely the easiest tubeless mounting experience I have had to date."

    Couldn't agree more. All three of my bikes run Special Ed tires tubeless and are fantastic.

  38. #5988
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    Comments about this LB Wheel Build???

    After a fair amount of research I think I am ready to buy a wheelset from LB but first I wanted to ask here if my choices are reasonable.

    35mm outer 30mm inner width rims.
    LB default Pillar Aero spokes
    Brass nipples (I'll be using Stans and want to avoid oxidation.)
    Novatec 771 772 hubs
    32 holes

    These will be used with Maxxis Ikon 29" 2.35 tires.

    I prefer the look of 3k carbon finish but I believe I read here that UD is stronger and that UD matte has the shortest lead time. Is this correct? LB said the lead time is the same for all of the finishes.

    Are the default Pillar aero spokes a good choice?

    I want these wide rims for better grip, better speed via lower pressure.
    Durability is more important to me than weight. I weigh 170 lbs = 78kg and am not very aggressive or technical but I like semi-steep climbs and am getting a little more daring around rocks. I have yet to get any air other than hopping over reptiles..

    Thanks!

  39. #5989
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    Iplay newest 30mm hookless rims

    Here are some pictures for reference

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520Name:  hookless IP-HR930C.jpg
Views: 1050
Size:  21.3 KB(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-ip-hr930c-9.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-ip-hr930c-weight.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-ip-hr930c-1.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-ip-hr930c-2.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-ip-hr930c-7.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_7061-1-.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_7059-1-.jpg

  40. #5990
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    3k vs UD - i reckon there'd be very little in it strength/weight-wise. so little, that you should go with what you like the look of.

    as for shortest lead time, it is probably a bit of a lottery. previously, UD matte did have the shortest lead time. dunno if that is still the case. for all we know, they could have done a batch of 3k gloss recently. if you don't have another set of wheels to ride, you should send them an email and ask before ordering. otherwise, just get the finish that you like the look of, and deal with a potentially longer lead team - after all, you could be riding those rims for a long time.

    the pillar 1420 spokes don't seem to have any glaring problems. i think you should feel reasonably comfortable getting those. i do wonder why LB don't use 1422 spokes though.

    that wheel build should be fine for just about anyone, except for a clydesdale downhiller. at your weight, with 32 spokes, even those thin cross-section spokes should be fine, as the rim will have the stiffness/strength to keep it all pretty straight. if anything, based on your described riding style, the rims might almost be overkill. but, at least it opens your options up for super-low pressure burp-free riding.

    BTW, make sure you don't get the "DH" version. The AM version would be more than enough anyway.

  41. #5991
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    I have the UD matte finish, I wish I went with 3k matte. The UD matte really just looks like a alloy rim, with 3k you can at least see the carbon finish. Derby will be my next rims, my friend has them they are so nice!! I love the shape and profile of them. One thing for sure carbon rims all the way!!

  42. #5992
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    3k vs UD - i reckon there'd be very little in it strength/weight-wise. so little, that you should go with what you like the look of.

    as for shortest lead time, it is probably a bit of a lottery. previously, UD matte did have the shortest lead time. dunno if that is still the case. for all we know, they could have done a batch of 3k gloss recently. if you don't have another set of wheels to ride, you should send them an email and ask before ordering. otherwise, just get the finish that you like the look of, and deal with a potentially longer lead team - after all, you could be riding those rims for a long time.

    the pillar 1420 spokes don't seem to have any glaring problems. i think you should feel reasonably comfortable getting those. i do wonder why LB don't use 1422 spokes though.

    that wheel build should be fine for just about anyone, except for a clydesdale downhiller. at your weight, with 32 spokes, even those thin cross-section spokes should be fine, as the rim will have the stiffness/strength to keep it all pretty straight. if anything, based on your described riding style, the rims might almost be overkill. but, at least it opens your options up for super-low pressure burp-free riding.

    BTW, make sure you don't get the "DH" version. The AM version would be more than enough anyway.
    Thanks for all of the advice. I already asked which finishes have the fastest lead times and they replied it is the same. However, I believe they have said that in the past but lead times have still varied considerable. Still, I will order 3k matt because of the bling look.

  43. #5993
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    I built the 650b for my Bronson in the 35mm width and it is a big rim. I just bought a pair of their 30mm hookless 29er rims in the regular build. I thought the 35 would be too much. I will use it mainly for XC and light AM. The 30mm 29er hookless rims are not listed on their website. You just have to ask Nancy. Just so you know all your options.

    The Pillar spokes I have not used but the reviews I could find were good. Finding replacements I felt was the biggest issue so I went with DT Revolutions which I can find locally. make sure you get some extras at each length. Considering that the rim is sealed with tape and the Stan's doesn't touch the nipples I don't understand the concern about corrosion. Other things will corrode the alloy nipples over time. But if weight is not an issue and durability is then I would go with brass.

  44. #5994
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    Quote Originally Posted by dugt View Post
    Thanks for all of the advice. I already asked which finishes have the fastest lead times and they replied it is the same. However, I believe they have said that in the past but lead times have still varied considerable. Still, I will order 3k matt because of the bling look.
    You should really ask them what they have in stock because that will be the fastest way of you getting your wheel set. As LB can ship it out ASAP.

    If they have none in stock ask which finish are being made at this point in time.
    "By Your Command"

  45. #5995
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    So I've got the new wider clincher rims laced up myself from 8 months ago. So far I've got over 2000 miles of mostly racing on these wheels. I've got two 24hr solos, three 12hr solos, a couple DH and over twenty XC races so far on this wheelset. I'm riding a Hardtail so when I send the bike off drops at speed the rear wheel gets its ass kicked. I'm felt the rear tire bottom out landing on smooth dirt several dozen times(I do my best to avoid this) but over time I've honestly become more worried my frame is going to break before my wheels ever do.

    Well it happened I broke a spoke, and half a dozen others where super loose. I do check my wheel for straitness before every ride and grab the spokes to make sure there is no loose ones. This was no different before this weekend 12hr race so I know I started with a good wheel. The one thing I've been meaning to do is recheck my overall spoke tension to make sure I'm still above 100kg set them at 110-120 originally but I just haven't gotten around to it. So I finished my race logging in over 140 miles in 12hr and the next day my buddy points out I've got a broken spoke. I check and sure enough it's broken right at the J-bend and a bunch of others all super loose. I spin the wheel and it's only got a 1/4 wobble at most and I didn't even feel it on my final laps. I don't know when it happened but the course had two rather fast lines with 3-4' drops that most riders were going around. I hit those drops every lap and unless my wheel fails on the very last lap then I probably kept beat it to **** after things started coming loose.

    If I had been using crest ztr rims I have little doubt I would have ruined the rim and probably have ended my race early, but not these carbon hoops. I've already replaced the spoke and re-trued the wheel and brought everything back up to 125kg and again sealed the threads with locking agent. I'll get my first chance to ride it again tonight at the races where miles of baby heads come standard.

    If I had $500 for another set of I9 hubs I'd have already built a second set of these wheels but alas the money always seems to end up somewhere else.

  46. #5996
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    I built the 650b for my Bronson in the 35mm width and it is a big rim. I just bought a pair of their 30mm hookless 29er rims in the regular build. I thought the 35 would be too much. I will use it mainly for XC and light AM. The 30mm 29er hookless rims are not listed on their website. You just have to ask Nancy. Just so you know all your options.

    The Pillar spokes I have not used but the reviews I could find were good. Finding replacements I felt was the biggest issue so I went with DT Revolutions which I can find locally. make sure you get some extras at each length. Considering that the rim is sealed with tape and the Stan's doesn't touch the nipples I don't understand the concern about corrosion. Other things will corrode the alloy nipples over time. But if weight is not an issue and durability is then I would go with brass.
    Thanks, Snipe, for your info.

    I know the Stan's is sealed from the nipples but still I have heard that there is much more corrosion when Stan's is used. Since Stan's is acidic, it might take little seepage or vapor to cause the corrosion, especially since the nipples are in a concealed hula hoop.

    I see your Bronson is FS. My bike is a hard tail and the more volume the merrier for me. What are you going to do with the 35mm wheels you built? In what way did you think they were, "Too much". What size tires do you use?

    Thanks for the recommendation to get extra spokes of each size. I will ask LB for that.

  47. #5997
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by dugt View Post
    Thanks, Snipe, for your info.

    I know the Stan's is sealed from the nipples but still I have heard that there is much more corrosion when Stan's is used. Since Stan's is acidic, it might take little seepage or vapor to cause the corrosion, especially since the nipples are in a concealed hula hoop.
    Stan's is not acidic. It is basic. Acid (e.g., CO2) makes it coagulate and form Stan's boogers.
    Ammonia does corrode aluminum, and it can facilitate galvanic corrosion as the electrolyte that allows current flow, but I suspect these things are beyond the discussion.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  48. #5998
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterQ520 View Post
    Iplay newest 30mm hookless rims

    Here are some pictures for reference

    Email: peter@xmiplay.cn
    Skype: peterque520Name:  hookless IP-HR930C.jpg
Views: 1050
Size:  21.3 KBClick image for larger version. 

Name:	IP-HR930C-9.JPG 
Views:	225 
Size:	177.3 KB 
ID:	900258Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IP-HR930C weight.jpg 
Views:	255 
Size:	68.7 KB 
ID:	900259Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IP-HR930C-1.JPG 
Views:	202 
Size:	206.2 KB 
ID:	900260Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IP-HR930C-2.JPG 
Views:	210 
Size:	187.1 KB 
ID:	900261Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IP-HR930C-7.JPG 
Views:	194 
Size:	197.1 KB 
ID:	900262Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_7061(1).JPG 
Views:	201 
Size:	77.4 KB 
ID:	900263Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_7059(1).JPG 
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ID:	900264
    What about the weight on 29er?

    If you manufacture real tubeless compatible rims - with the lip at the bead - it think I won't be the only one buying you a pair. Why not?

  49. #5999
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrul View Post
    What about the weight on 29er?

    If you manufacture real tubeless compatible rims - with the lip at the bead - it think I won't be the only one buying you a pair. Why not?
    Is that a secret code message or do you really think that makes sense?

  50. #6000
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrul View Post
    What about the weight on 29er?

    If you manufacture real tubeless compatible rims - with the lip at the bead - it think I won't be the only one buying you a pair. Why not?
    The weight of IP-HR930C hooklees rim is around 410+/-15g/piece, there is picture there you can see.

    And Of course we have IP-RM930C rims bead hook tubeless compatible rims available
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_5918.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_5912.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-img_5914.jpg(Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-ip-rm930c-29er-am-rim-geometry.jpg

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