Originally Posted by skiahh
According to online research of the meaning of "jake", I find this....
in good standing.
in good standing, or at the least without conflict.
Now that you've paid up, we're jake.
If you want to, that's jake with me.
I'm jake with that.
That game is totally jake.
good, well, satisfactory.
By his broad smile I knew all was jake.
a police officer.
There sure are a lot of jakes out tonight.
general derogatory term for another person.
That foo ain't nothin' but a Jake.
verb - intransitive
to fake an injury, to hang back in play, to malinger, to loaf
"Everyone on the team is trying except Joe. He's jaking it."
That's the problem with slang, it takes on whatever meaning the user wants it to take. Of the submitted definitions, 4 of the descriptions as an adjective are positive and 1 is negative. Adroit Rider used the slang term jake as an adjective in the following sentence:
I also think Spesh wheels on a non Spesh bike are jake.
This, of course, would be the "generally displeasing" definition from the Online Slang Dictionary.
If we choose another description of the adjective jake from the Online Slang Dictionary, the same sentence could mean in good standing, alright, fine, good, well, satisfactory.
Changes the meaning entirely, but evidently is also acceptable. So the same exact sentence said by me with regard to my JET 9....
I also think Spesh wheels on a non Spesh bike are jake. would be good, fine.:D:D:D
I assume that straight pull is the same as radially laced spokes and will will question that this lacing give less lateral stiffness. Actually, I think it is opposite: the fewer crossings, the stiffer wheel, both radially and laterally. There could be other disadvantages with radial lacing, but stiffness is not a problem.
Originally Posted by yourdaguy
Anyone gets a full wheelset with novatec hubs? They have a 28mm ext wider and weights 1750g.. The hubs weight 400g and the spokes 6,5g each (450g per 64set)... Is it a good business?
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Straight-pull or j-bend is a separate concept from lacing pattern. Either can be laced in a variety of ways. The exception is that straight pull hubs have to be manufactured with a particular lacing pattern in mind.
Originally Posted by ErikGBL
As for number of crosses, zero cross (radial lacing) is definitely less stiff rotationaly. It is relatively easy to rotate a radially laced hub while the rim stays still. This is why radial lacing isn't used with disc brakes and is typically only used on one side of the wheel even with rim brakes.
I've noticed that th LB rims are thicker than aluminum rims where each nipple passes through. This keeps the nipple extremely straight, always pointed exactly radially. This results in a bend each spoke directly at the nipple when using a typical 3-cross pattern. A minor benefit is that it seems to help spokes resist wind up while lacing.
Mine is suppose to get here today. Will post weights, pictures, etc as soon as I can.
Originally Posted by ftajiri
[QUOTE=ErikGBL;10035407]I assume that straight pull is the same as radially laced spokes/QUOTE]
Straight pull MTB wheels are cross-patterned, not radial.
He's talking about lateral bracing angle, which is affected by the chunky spoke-to-hub connections required for straight pull.
They arrived this morning! They came in at 1696 grams (948 for the rear and 748 for the front). I gave them a quick check and everything looked good. I just dropped them off at Carolina Bike Mechanic to make sure everything is tensioned right and that everything looked okay. I have to work tonight so I will pick them up first thing tomorrow morning.
a new bike is coming.
Originally Posted by erikrc10
novatec D711/712SB hub + sapim Delta spokes and sapim nipples, weight: 1400g /pair, super light? what do you think.
Originally Posted by ftajiri
Anyone laced them with Titanium spokes? Does it make sense? I mean, super stiff rims with more "flexible" spokes...
Ti spokes are a waste of money. I would definitely want stainless in the front for stiffness reasons. I guess if someone couldn't get enough compliance from their rear tire and seat post and frame and seat, they could make a case in the rear (pun intended).
Basically, not as stiff, not as reliable, way more expensive.
When you have 15mm front axle compatibility, let us know
When you have 15mm front axle compatibility, let us know
Originally Posted by Jason.MT
Got my bike all setup today. This was my first attempt going tubeless and it was a snap. Much easier than people made it sound. I had no problem getting the bead to seat on my Nevegals with the use of a little soapy water. They are still a little weepy but I'm hoping everything will be sealed up tomorrow for the first real ride. I haven't really ridden in two months due to being out of the country and then tacoing my wheel on my second ride home. So I don't have the best baseline for what the bike felt like before since it's been so long but the bike felt lighter and snappier on the quick sprint up and down the street.
Also, the freehub is steel and NOT aluminum. It's different than the ones speced on Novatec's website. I actually prefer that since I had a spare SLX cassette laying around that I can now use without worrying about it causing damage.
The bike got a cleaning along with a new cassette and chain today. It's going to be a happy bike when I take it out tomorrow. I'm also throwing in the towel on these awful Elixer brakes. I'm ordering some XT brakes later tonight. That will leave the only real thing left that I want to upgrade is to carbon bars. Those will wait awhile though.
Will post some pictures of them out in the wild tomorrow if I get a chance.
20130104_133206 by ErikRC10, on Flickr
20130105_122556 by ErikRC10,http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8463/8...75ea0053_z.jpg
There's more talk of galvanic corrosion between aluminum nipples and carbon fiber on another thread. It seems there have been alot of carbon wheels built w/ aluminum nipples and I haven't heard of alot of failures due to galvanic corrosion. Any more thoughts from the experts? TIA.
Do brass nipples corrode alloy rims if you ride them through slushie roads laced with deicing salts or taken for dips in salt water? Or do steel spokes corrode aluminum nipples or hubs? Why so paranoid? What's the worst case scenario?
Wide rim? 32h? Nice weight
Originally Posted by Jason.MT
Aluminum nipples that are annodized (colored and most clear ones) would be very resistant to galvanic corrosion with carbon wheels and stainless spokes. I could see where long term aluminum nipples would probably suffer from galvanic corrosion between stainless spokes (or ti spokes for that matter) and carbon rims. But in most usage situations they should last for many years. Brass nipples should last a lifetime being all but immune to corrosion.
Having an inboard ski boat I know that they used to make propellers out of brass but now they make them out of nibril which is nickel, aluminum, and brass. They are stronger than brass (can be made thinner) lighter than brass, and never corrode. They are not as light as aluminum but much stronger so I would nominate nibril as a good material to make nipples out of other than the fact that it is probably hard to "work". Besides, I just love saying "nibril nipples".
I'm thinking of getting the regular Non-wide light rims for xc racing and I was wondering if they can be run tubeless very well. Also seems like most people are getting the Wider rims is there anyone who can Comment on the non-wide version of the rims? strength.stiffness
First ride impressions:
I will start off by saying this was basically my first ride in 3 months. I left the country for a month at the beginning of October and on my second ride after I got back tacoed my front wheel. I then spent a long time trying to decide what I wanted to do, whether it be just get a new rim or buy a new wheelset. I finally decided on the wheelset.
I have to say these wheels are awesome! Even with my weak legs and lungs I was flying up the hills. I never felt sluggish on the climb, where as before when things got steep it would feel like the bike was pulling itself to a stop. I shaved 500g off my old wheelset, before going tubeless. So in total these wheels setup tubeless weigh less than 3/4 of my old wheels with tubes. All that weight being gone made technical climbs a breeze as well. The only limiting factor was my legs, no riding in 3 months will really put the hurt on. The stiffness was very noticeable as well, the steering was lightening quick. It went where ever I pointed it. That being said I don't really notice much flex as it is. I'm just under 6' and weigh about 145lbs with all my gear on so things have to be pretty weak to flex under me. I took it somewhat easy on the downs, mainly because I had lost some of my mojo with being off the bike so long. I was a little nervous to try and do tailwhips and the like as well because of how tiny the Novatec rear hub is, just makes me a little cautious. I'm sure I will get past that with another couple rides though.
Also, TUBELESS! Man I should have done that a looong time ago. I kept telling myself I would do it with my next set of tires and I never got around to it. The tires were so supple without a tube being in there. Gravel roads and little rocks just disappeared. It was amazing, that's not something I was really expecting. At least not to that degree. The Nevegals still haven't sealed up all the way so they had lost a bit of pressure by the end of the ride, but nothing major. For those of you out there that still haven't gone tubeless, do it!
I have a question about spoke tension on carbon wheels. I took them to my mechanic (really just more of my wheel guy) to get them checked out and he said that they looked good but the spoke tension seemed a bit low. He said not knowing the spec on the wheels and not working much with carbon wheels in general he didn't want to mess with it since everything else looked good. So my question is, do carbon rims usually have a lower spoke tension than aluminium rims?
I have VW Eos wheels on my Audi. Looks pretty sweet, if I do say so myself... even looks factory. Of course, I substituted the VW center caps with Audi ones. The car needed tires, and I found these new take-offs on craigslist for cheaper than new tires, plus I bumped it from 15" rims with 65 aspect tires to 17s with 45 aspect. All I had to do was to get the tires remounted and balanced... and three of them were spot on balanced out with no weights. :thumbsup:
Originally Posted by Adroit Rider
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/aVtUhKuHIBQ0tjyDPGoTc9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-alhruUeki7s/T5A0qgwWRDI/AAAAAAAAcgo/G-MgbUzitlY/s800/IMG_3067.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>
Point is, these are not coveted collector's items, like a 1970 GTO with matching serial numbers...that sorta thing. No need to get bogged down too much on useless details... unless you really want to, I guess. meh...
No price and not that light.
i bought a set for my road bike and have put over a 500 miles on them with no problem... I have been thinking about buying a set since the price is so good just to see how they hold up.
Ok, I have been using the wider AM rims on my Rocky Mountain element for about half a year now. I got rather heavy rims (400g/each) and laced them 3-cross with 64 Sapim D-light spokes and alu nipples to Hope Evo 2 hubs (20mm front/142-12 rear). The building process went without any problems. I ride in pretty muddy and rooty beech and firtree forests. I got the rims mainly for the low weight and wider tire footprint. I run them tubeless like most people do, with Bontrager rimstrips. I use my homebrew tubeless solution and Maxxis tires.
Brian was very helpful and I would do the same thing all over again.