• 04-02-2014
    max_lombardy
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Lol, I'd easily imagine you spending over an hour trying to fish in a single nipple, since obviously you have no clues on what you're talking about.

    3 minutes top is what it'll take you if the nipple to be replaced is the one further away from the valve hole. 30 seconds or less for the 6~8 closest nipples and between a minute or two for all the others. The only difference would be not having to redo your rim tape setup or in the case of using the gorilla tape with an old inner tube valve, you wouldn't have to also retape the valve. In both cases, you'd still need to pluck the valve out anyway, unless your setup has the valve independent from the tape.

    In the end, it's only gonna take you 3 minutes more to do the job if you have undrilled vs drilled. You'll still have to take the tire off, clean the sealant, take the tape/valve out, shake the old nipple out of there, get the new lube nipple in, etc. No big deal.

    My main reason for choosing undrilled is to save the weight of a rim strip. Extra unneeded rotating mass.
  • 04-02-2014
    Walt Disney's Frozen Head
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    My main reason for choosing undrilled is to save the weight of a rim strip. Extra unneeded rotating mass.

    do you have any idea how inconsequential that "rotating mass" is?

    Analytic Cycling, Interactive Methods for Estimating Cycling Performance Parameters. Tom Compton
  • 04-02-2014
    Trailice
    My whole point on this undrilled tire bed thing is the good old K.I.S.S theory.
    If your wheel don't work who cares what it weighs?
    I need a big wheels for what the bike's intended use is, rotating mass has that beautiful gyroscopic effect while not in contact with the ground, and simply rolls over things easier.
    The trick is to not have to regain momentum.
    My races wheels are light enough to scare me, and they ain't too light either.
    I have folded too many wheels to have that happen again (broken chains as well).
    I do not use equipment so much as abuse it.
    Ride it like it is stolen or a mamma moose is chasing me!
    Filing nipples sound interesting, it might work.
    I will have to contemplate that idea.
    I do want to order these soonley, my woods might be dry in a month, and a 15-20 day lead time on UD matte downhill 29" rims from LB.
  • 04-02-2014
    meltingfeather
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    My whole point on this undrilled tire bed thing is the good old K.I.S.S theory.

    Fishing nipples through a rim doesn't qualify as simple to me.
    Tape? Simple as pie.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    If your wheel don't work who cares what it weighs?

    How many people have problems with tape?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    I need a big wheels for what the bike's intended use is, rotating mass has that beautiful gyroscopic effect while not in contact with the ground, and simply rolls over things easier.
    The trick is to not have to regain momentum.
    My races wheels are light enough to scare me, and they ain't too light either.
    I have folded too many wheels to have that happen again (broken chains as well).
    I do not use equipment so much as abuse it.
    Ride it like it is stolen or a mamma moose is chasing me!
    Filing nipples sound interesting, it might work.
    I will have to contemplate that idea.
    I do want to order these soonley, my woods might be dry in a month, and a 15-20 day lead time on UD matte downhill 29" rims from LB.

    huh? :crazy:
  • 04-02-2014
    David C
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post

    How many people have problems with tape?

    maybe you didn't notice, but there's a poor guy who's living a nightmare trying to get rid of the airs leaks on his new wheels. He just posted in this thread, yet, you ignored him in your arguments.

    I think you're just jealous of my brand new roll of tape sitting on my shelf, collecting dust, while yours is all dirty from tire sealant ;)
  • 04-02-2014
    brimorga
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jvossman View Post
    HI gang. By the way if the moderator feels that my questions are better served on the tire/wheel forum rather than this long chinese rim thread, let me know.

    Ok, so pulled tires out. Cleaned out all the gunk. Especially at the valve hole Made sure bontrager strips were on correctly (heck even swapped them with each other for good luck) and put new tires on the rims. Double checked to make sure the stand no tube valves were sitting correctly on the strip. The results were:

    Now both wheels leak at the valve holes.
    One of the new tires leaks along the seal.

    At this point my options are..
    a) go back to the bontrager valve stems (maybe buy new)
    b) redo everything with stans (despite what BBrown says).

    My concern with just using stans tape is that iss doesn't have the little beads that the bontrager and the old stans strips had. Should i be worried that the tires wont have anything to hook into? (They are maxxis icons if that makes a difference).

    a) Now

    Are you using sealant? I would think that should take care of all your little leaks.
  • 04-02-2014
    shiggy
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jvossman View Post
    HI gang. By the way if the moderator feels that my questions are better served on the tire/wheel forum rather than this long chinese rim thread, let me know.

    Ok, so pulled tires out. Cleaned out all the gunk. Especially at the valve hole Made sure bontrager strips were on correctly (heck even swapped them with each other for good luck) and put new tires on the rims. Double checked to make sure the stand no tube valves were sitting correctly on the strip. The results were:

    Now both wheels leak at the valve holes.
    One of the new tires leaks along the seal.

    At this point my options are..
    a) go back to the bontrager valve stems (maybe buy new)
    b) redo everything with stans (despite what BBrown says).

    My concern with just using stans tape is that iss doesn't have the little beads that the bontrager and the old stans strips had. Should i be worried that the tires wont have anything to hook into? (They are maxxis icons if that makes a difference).

    a) Now

    I will bet the issue is not the valves, but the interface between the Bonty TLR rim strips and the rims. They may "fit", but maybe not well enough with the non-Bonty rims to seal completely.
    I have never had an issue with full Bonty TLR systems sealing when used with UST-compatible tires, even without sealant (though the tire casing may need sealant).

    Mix parts and you take your chances.
  • 04-02-2014
    Trailice
    Quote Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    I need a big wheels for what the bike's intended use is, rotating mass has that beautiful gyroscopic effect while not in contact with the ground, and simply rolls over things easier.
    The trick is to not have to regain momentum.
    My races wheels are light enough to scare me, and they ain't too light either.
    I have folded too many wheels to have that happen again (broken chains as well).
    I do not use equipment so much as abuse it.
    Ride it like it is stolen or a mamma moose is chasing me!
    Filing nipples sound interesting, it might work.
    I will have to contemplate that idea.
    I do want to order these soonley, my woods might be dry in a month, and a 15-20 day lead time on UD matte downhill 29" rims from LB.
    huh?

    Off trail use!

    Do not be so condescending, it is rude.:nono:

    Oh master of all bike knowledge!
    See that is rude, it is so easy on the net. But not nice.
    I have broke more bikes than you have rode, so whatever man, go ride a bike!
    And have some fun besides trolling.
    p.s. I am native american, and Melting Feather might be offensive to some.
  • 04-02-2014
    meltingfeather
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by David C View Post
    maybe you didn't notice, but there's a poor guy who's living a nightmare trying to get rid of the airs leaks on his new wheels. He just posted in this thread, yet, you ignored him in your arguments.

    People can screw up anything... and you don't know that tape is his problem. If it's at the valve, losing the tape ain't going to fix it.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I think you're just jealous of my brand new roll of tape sitting on my shelf, collecting dust, while yours is all dirty from tire sealant ;)

    What I'm jealous of is all the time you spent fiddling with nipples inside your rim. That I wish I could do more. :thumbsup:
  • 04-02-2014
    DukeNeverwinter
    I'm going to echo that I think the Bontrager TLR strips with the newer rims may be the issue of not sealing near the valve hole.

    I just installed the strips and had a similar issue. I just kept doing the stans shake until it went away. Took a day or so, but it did.
  • 04-02-2014
    Trailice
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    People can screw up anything...:thumbsup:

    Including this thread.:mad:
    Why are your comments so negative?:confused:
    You need to go ride your bike and relieve some stress some where else besides here.
    Thanks for the help david c and mutantclover, Glad some people are here to help, not troll.
  • 04-02-2014
    max_lombardy
    Chill people. Use tape if you like it, don't use it if you don't want.

    When you choose not to drill a rim, you end up with a lighter, simpler, cleaner, stronger and more elegant setup. Period. Maybe that doesn't matter to you, but these little things are what separate a good product from an A+ product. People pay top dollar for these little details, and if you build your own wheels, you just have to decide how much of yourself you're going to pour into the build to get the results you want. We are all here because we want top notch wheels right? Why not go the extra mile?
  • 04-02-2014
    vikb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by David C View Post
    maybe you didn't notice, but there's a poor guy who's living a nightmare trying to get rid of the airs leaks on his new wheels. He just posted in this thread, yet, you ignored him in your arguments.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    People can screw up anything... and you don't know that tape is his problem. If it's at the valve, losing the tape ain't going to fix it.

    From what I have read the rider with the leak around the valve stems is not using tape.

    He just talked about trying tape if he can't get the Bonty strips to work.
  • 04-02-2014
    BXCc
    If you are trying to save weight by not using rim tape, please don't forget to add the weight of the extra carbon that wasn't drilled out. That will offset some of the weight savings. Plus, holes do not always make something weaker. They just need to be placed in the right spot and be nice clean holes without burrs and nicks.
  • 04-02-2014
    AZ
    This thread has reached "Ludicrous Speed".
  • 04-02-2014
    Trailice
    I was not worried about weight, just strength.
    Sorry about helping bring this thread up to "ludicrous speed".
    Just trying to make a better/stronger wheel.
    Tape has worked fine for me in the past,
    Hell I got a stans kit from him off of mtbr in 1999, it was a photocopied sheet from his auto shop in NY. I even did it to a cut down Mavic MA40. Remember those?
    Stans works, but 14 years later it is still the exact same concept as then.
    I am ready to move on and do not like most of the ust or tubeless ready tires.
    I am poor and $440 for less than a kilo of epoxy and cf is a stretch for me.
    If I can have better for the same money, why not.
    Tape is one more thing to fail. A undrilled rim will not fail like tape would.
    But I digress.
    Anyone got the 29" 460+/- gram downhill version yet?
  • 04-02-2014
    meltingfeather
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    Including this thread.:mad:
    Why are your comments so negative?:confused:

    They aren't. You just don't get it.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    You need to go ride your bike and relieve some stress some where else besides here.

    Are you in 5th grade? That s**t is so tired it's sad.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    Thanks for the help david c and mutantclover, Glad some people are here to help, not troll.

    lol
    Does your p***y hurt?
  • 04-02-2014
    blcman
    ^ This! Bonty strips may not work for some rims but not all. Is that this hard to believe! They didn't work on my rims, where tape did!
    Should not be that hard to understand guys. Prop to meltingfeather I say.
  • 04-02-2014
    jvossman
    hi gang, i appreciate the suggestions. Came back tonight, both tires deflated perhpas the rear slightly less than the front. For the record, my lb all mountian rims were delivered in November 2013. I am using 2 full cups of straight up stans sealant in addition the bontrager strips. I've heard people mention the stan's shake.. Once the air seals the tire, i bounce it around, then spin the wheel horizontal to vertical. Since I have no compressor and am my 12th CO2 cartrige, I then let the CO2 out and then fill regular air to about 40 psi to seat the tire on the rim. I even go out and ride for a few minutes in the parking lot. Is that pretty much the shake? I agree the issue is probably the valve hole/stans valve/bontrager interface. I guess one option is to go back to the bontrager valves but before then I'm going to due the stans tape AND the bontrager rim strips since no one has yet commented on whether running these wheels without rim strips is a smart idea. FWIW my tires are NOT UST, I weight 210 and have had 3 out of last 5 rides cut short by flats on these wheels (and the fourth I ended up in the back of an ambulance-not the wheel's fault), Wish me luck!

    JV
    Miami FL
  • 04-02-2014
    blcman
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jvossman View Post
    hi gang, i appreciate the suggestions. Came back tonight, both tires deflated perhpas the rear slightly less than the front. For the record, my lb all mountian rims were delivered in November 2013. I am using 2 full cups of straight up stans sealant in addition the bontrager strips. I've heard people mention the stan's shake.. Once the air seals the tire, i bounce it around, then spin the wheel horizontal to vertical. Since I have no compressor and am my 12th CO2 cartrige, I then let the CO2 out and then fill regular air to about 40 psi to seat the tire on the rim. I even go out and ride for a few minutes in the parking lot. Is that pretty much the shake? I agree the issue is probably the valve hole/stans valve/bontrager interface. I guess one option is to go back to the bontrager valves but before then I'm going to due the stans tape AND the bontrager rim strips since no one has yet commented on whether running these wheels without rim strips is a smart idea. FWIW my tires are NOT UST, I weight 210 and have had 3 out of last 5 rides cut short by flats on these wheels (and the fourth I ended up in the back of an ambulance-not the wheel's fault), Wish me luck!



    JV
    Miami FL

    No that isn't even close to "the shake". Did you even bother to watch the Stan's video. Of course not!! The shake is to hold the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and "shake it towards you and away from you.
    Then rotate it maybe 20 deg. and repeat, until you get all the way around. That's the shake, and if you didn't do that then maybe try it before you go to Bonty strip and tape.
  • 04-02-2014
    S.O.B.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    Anyone got the 29" 460+/- gram downhill version yet?

    I have a set of the 29" 35mm downhill version. Probably overkill, but I ride my rigid SS pretty hard so a few more grams for strength in an important area is o.k. by me. They are being built up now and I will be taking them for a short test ride Sat. (building the bike up also) and then a big ride on Sunday. I will report back with pics etc.
  • 04-02-2014
    yourdaguy
    You need to go to the Stan's website and view the video. You have to shake and lay on the side a couple of times per side. If you didn’t do that, it will never seal. Riding will not get the sealant up around the bead.
  • 04-02-2014
    Structure
    No fool'n on the Stan's shake. May sound like no big deal, but it works.

    NoTubes Support Center

    Also remember to let them lie flat for a while. I use a 5 gallon bucket to set them on.
  • 04-02-2014
    zephxiii
    Yes. With my Arch EX rims and Race Kings it took a few weeks to get them sealed. It takes a little effort but eventually they will seal...

    Since then Orange Seal is what I use now.
  • 04-02-2014
    Bikrider
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by manninen View Post
    no

    246mm 30pc
    242mm 6pc

    just sold me wrong spokes, could be whole stock wrong in that company

    What company did you get the spokes from ? What spokes are they?

    I have my wheels built in China before shipping to me, I haven't built any wheels myself before;)

    I have a post about my wheels a few days ago.

    Still waiting for them.
  • 04-02-2014
    manninen
    Does not matter, i ordered spokes little after these rims like 2 monts ago, told him what happened and he sent those 6 spokes yesterday. Life is and we are just humans. Well, we are humans in internet so we have to be extra careful ;)
    Spokes are dt aerolites

    ps. is there 26/559 specific carbon rim topic or is that size so dead so it does not need one?
  • 04-03-2014
    Axe
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Mutantclover View Post
    BTW, Mavic claims 4x the fatigue life on their "Fore" drilled alloy rims because one of the rim walls is uninterrupted by holes. How this would translate to composite, I don't know. Just throwing it out there.

    Does not carbon have infinite fatigue life, pretty much? If it ain't broken, it is not going to deteriorate.
  • 04-03-2014
    Axe
    How are the stock builds from light-bycycle? Evenly tensioned and stuff? Properly lubed nipples?

    It just so much cheaper to get Novatec hubbed set directly. Thinking of hookless 29.
  • 04-03-2014
    Axe
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by max_lombardy View Post
    My main reason for choosing undrilled is to save the weight of a rim strip. Extra unneeded rotating mass.

    4g per wheel. And how much those drilled out 32 bits of carbon weight? Probably half that at least. So you are talking about 2 grams, and your wheelbuilder will hate you.

    Better order two rims together with your friend, and give him the heavier one. ;)
  • 04-03-2014
    sq225917
    No the epoxy degrades and fibers crack just like anything else, it just takes a while. Alloy on the other hand will fail no matter high light the loading if the cycle number is high enough, with carbon you have to exceed the yield load.
  • 04-03-2014
    Axe
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sq225917 View Post
    No the epoxy degrades and fibers crack just like anything else, it just takes a while. Alloy on the other hand will fail no matter high light the loading if the cycle number is high enough, with carbon you have to exceed the yield load.

    Degrades, from UV for example, but not fatigues (from bending).
  • 04-03-2014
    manninen
    i had vision for allrounder carbon bike which supposed to be under weather 365 days a year, mostly sun was burning on bikes left side. some throw me with this link

    Degradation of Carbon Fiber-Reinforced Epoxy Composites by Ultraviolet Radiation and Condensation

    i have good rat bike which i found from garbage, havent yet bought carbon frame and thinking is it really necessary
  • 04-03-2014
    David C
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by manninen View Post
    Does not matter, i ordered spokes little after these rims like 2 monts ago, told him what happened and he sent those 6 spokes yesterday. Life is and we are just humans. Well, we are humans in internet so we have to be extra careful ;)
    Spokes are dt aerolites

    ps. is there 26/559 specific carbon rim topic or is that size so dead so it does not need one?

    Yes there is. Look up the " 26" AM Chinese Carbon Rim" thread or something titled like that. It's in the Wheels and Tires forum if I remember correctly.
  • 04-03-2014
    jvossman
    I had previously read the instructions printed on the inside of the stans kit and a few ghetto tubeless videos.. Now I have seen stans official video, doing the exact shake. thanks. I'll sign off now as I seem to be causing exclamation points and aggravation from at least one forum.

    I hope everbody enjoys their cheap chinese rims and that my problems setting them tubeless are a rarity. If I have any other issues I will post in tire forum. THANKS!

    John Voss
    Miami FL
  • 04-03-2014
    TwoTone
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    How are the stock builds from light-bycycle? Evenly tensioned and stuff? Properly lubed nipples?

    It just so much cheaper to get Novatec hubbed set directly. Thinking of hookless 29.

    Based on the posts I've read about some of their builds, I wouldn't have them build me a wheel. Order the rims, have them shipped to a builder of your choice.
  • 04-03-2014
    TheKaiser
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Gabriel J View Post
    My 27mm hookless rims showed up today...Weights were 443 and 462, so on par and slightly lower than advertised.
    -Gabe

    Gabe, are those the actual weights, or did you type a "4" accidentally rather than a "3"? If those are actual weights, are you sure you got regular 27mm hookless and not 35mm? If they are indeed 27mm (external), did you request an extra strong or DH build with additional carbon plies?

    I ask because just a few posts up from yours Manninen stated "Just received my 27mm hookless and weights are 339 and 349.". Also, Lightbicycle quotes 365 for that rim. The mid 400s is where several people are reporting their 35mm rims coming in.
  • 04-03-2014
    TedS123
    Just got a note from LB saying my rims are done. I ordered the AM weight 27 mm wide hookless. They are reporting weights of 351 & 360. I've replied asking to confirm that these are AM weights, but maybe they are coming in under the listed weights for both XC and AM.

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
  • 04-03-2014
    SJDude
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jvossman View Post
    hi gang, i appreciate the suggestions. Came back tonight, both tires deflated perhpas the rear slightly less than the front. For the record, my lb all mountian rims were delivered in November 2013. I am using 2 full cups of straight up stans sealant in addition the bontrager strips. I've heard people mention the stan's shake.. Once the air seals the tire, i bounce it around, then spin the wheel horizontal to vertical. Since I have no compressor and am my 12th CO2 cartrige, I then let the CO2 out and then fill regular air to about 40 psi to seat the tire on the rim. ...

    You perfectly highlite why I bought an air compressor. I went through that many times, got fed up, spent the $150 for a 8 gallon oil free compressor...

    Sounds like you may not have trimmed back the rim strips at the valve holes properly. Would need a picture to be sure. Any rim tape can interfere with the seal of the stem.

    In addition to the stans shake as you call it, I lay the wheel on its side in a garbage can alternating sides 5 minutes at a time. I spin it in my truing stand for 5 or even 10 minutes. And if theres air coming out somewhere I hold that spot at the lowest spot to stans comes bubbling out the hole and just hold it like that until it stops.



    Dave C you're a genius. I would have taken that approach any day of the week and twice on sunday if I'd thought of it. Gorilla tape is 18g added to each rim of rotational weight. I just spent all this time and money to save 60g over my I19's and a third of it goes out the window to messy tape that sort of works most of the time???

    Good god if you had to replace a nipple (and I havent in 20 years of mountain biking) you have to peel the tape off, and then somehow get the goop left behind off with acetone, WD40, or maybe gasoline so the next strip will stick and seal...
  • 04-03-2014
    SJDude
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jvossman View Post
    hi gang, i appreciate the suggestions. Came back tonight, both tires deflated perhpas the rear slightly less than the front. For the record, my lb all mountian rims were delivered in November 2013. I am using 2 full cups of straight up stans sealant in addition the bontrager strips. I've heard people mention the stan's shake.. Once the air seals the tire, i bounce it around, then spin the wheel horizontal to vertical. Since I have no compressor and am my 12th CO2 cartrige, I then let the CO2 out and then fill regular air to about 40 psi to seat the tire on the rim. ...

    You perfectly highlite why I bought an air compressor. I went through that many times, got fed up, spent the $150 for a 8 gallon oil free compressor...

    Sounds like you may not have trimmed back the rim strips at the valve holes properly. Would need a picture to be sure. Any rim tape can interfere with the seal of the stem.

    In addition to the stans shake as you call it, I lay the wheel on its side in a garbage can alternating sides 5 minutes at a time. I spin it in my truing stand for 5 or even 10 minutes. And if theres air coming out somewhere I hold that spot at the lowest spot to stans comes bubbling out the hole and just hold it like that until it stops.



    Dave C you're a genius. I would have taken that approach any day of the week and twice on sunday if I'd thought of it. Gorilla tape is 18g added to each rim of rotational weight. I just spent all this time and money to save 60g over my I19's and a third of it goes out the window to messy tape that sort of works most of the time???

    Good god if you had to replace a nipple (and I havent in 20 years of mountain biking) you have to peel the tape off, and then somehow get the goop left behind off with acetone, WD40, or maybe gasoline so the next strip will stick and seal...
  • 04-03-2014
    manninen
    Hey guys, wanna hear something funny.

    27mm hookless DS tightness 20 (parktool scale)

    i use innertubes

    i put 60psi to pop tyre properly

    check tension with 60psi

    DS shows 17-18, so every spoke loses -2 (park tool scale)

    havenīt thought THIS before, is this common?
  • 04-03-2014
    mattsavage
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by manninen View Post
    Hey guys, wanna hear something funny.

    27mm hookless DS tightness 20 (parktool scale)

    i use innertubes

    i put 60psi to pop tyre properly

    check tension with 60psi

    DS shows 17-18, so every spoke loses -2 (park tool scale)

    havenīt thought THIS before, is this common?

    It does happen, especially when you over inflate a tire. Max psi on these rims is 40... I believe one of the very first posts in this thread showed images of what happens when you over inflate on these rims...

    I put carbon beaded tubeless road tires on Stans alpha 340's and they dropped 30 kgf...
  • 04-03-2014
    manninen
    okay, that stans sounds tough
    i know i took a risk with these. actually these are not in mtb but in creditcard tourer

    so im running 45-50psi 32mm tyres

    at LB they said itīs ok.
  • 04-03-2014
    meltingfeather
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    It does happen, especially when you over inflate a tire. Max psi on these rims is 40... I believe one of the very first posts in this thread showed images of what happens when you over inflate on these rims...

    I put carbon beaded tubeless road tires on Stans alpha 340's and they dropped 30 kgf...

    It's not the pressure it's the bead seating tightly.
  • 04-03-2014
    meltingfeather
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SJDude View Post
    Any rim tape can interfere with the seal of the stem.

    You can also have stem seal leaks with no tape.




    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SJDude View Post
    Dave C you're a genius. I would have taken that approach any day of the week and twice on sunday if I'd thought of it. Gorilla tape is 18g added to each rim of rotational weight. I just spent all this time and money to save 60g over my I19's and a third of it goes out the window to messy tape that sort of works most of the time???

    You used the wrong tape... and didn't account for the carbon lost to the hole drilling.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SJDude View Post
    Good god if you had to replace a nipple (and I havent in 20 years of mountain biking) you have to peel the tape off, and then somehow get the goop left behind off with acetone, WD40, or maybe gasoline so the next strip will stick and seal...

    Walk us through the process for one of these magical rims with no bed holes, just for comparison.
  • 04-03-2014
    sclyde2
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    It's not the pressure it's the bead seating tightly.

    Yeah, what he said. People have found this with notubes rims especially with tight fitting schwalbes.

    The drop in tension most likely happened when you put the tire on, before you aired it up. To confirm, try measuring the tension with the tire flat.

    Dunno where they get the 40psi max from. The LB site says 70psi - but I wouldn't go trying to do that with a 2.35 tire. I'm running my 27mm rims with 35mm touring tires at 60psi on my commuter.
  • 04-03-2014
    Axe
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Based on the posts I've read about some of their builds, I wouldn't have them build me a wheel. Order the rims, have them shipped to a builder of your choice.

    I would maybe also order the Novatec hubs and Pillar spokes... supposedly good stuff.

    But yes, never a problem with one local guy. His builds stay tight and true for years.
  • 04-03-2014
    Axe
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SJDude View Post


    Dave C you're a genius. I would have taken that approach any day of the week and twice on sunday if I'd thought of it. Gorilla tape is 18g added to each rim of rotational weight. I just spent all this time and money to save 60g over my I19's and a third of it goes out the window to messy tape that sort of works most of the time???

    Why are you using Gorilla tape? It is too thick for tubeless ready rims - no need to build up. 4g or so for a single layer of yellow tape - works perfectly.
  • 04-03-2014
    Axe
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by manninen View Post
    Hey guys, wanna hear something funny.

    27mm hookless DS tightness 20 (parktool scale)

    i use innertubes

    i put 60psi to pop tyre properly

    check tension with 60psi

    DS shows 17-18, so every spoke loses -2 (park tool scale)

    havenīt thought THIS before, is this common?

    Sounds plausible that an inflated tube compresses the rim inwards. 60psi is like two and half times too high though, is not it?
  • 04-03-2014
    David C
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    I would maybe also order the Novatec hubs and Pillar spokes... supposedly good stuff.

    But yes, never a problem with one local guy. His builds stay tight and true for years.

    That's what I did, because I wanted to use brass nipples and they didn't had the gold ones available, so I told them to ship me the rims, hubs and spokes. Turns out they shipped me 252mm spokes, while I needed 250's, 251's and 253's. I was able to ship back the spokes (another $16 out of my pocket for shipping), and buy the right lengths from Dan's Comp. Later LB told me they only have certain lengths in stock and they wouldn't have the right lengths for my build. Big bummer.

    So if you're to order the spokes from them and you really don't know the exact lengths, I'd suggest to order the spokes about 4-5mm longer than needed and have a lbs cut them to the right length (make sure you have such a lbs that can do it for you before ordering). Novatec hubs are nice for the price, plus you can choose the ones with the XD driver compatibility, and they are well priced. Just beware of spokes lengths if you order the whole un-built package. Oh, and they also price alloy nipples for dirt cheap, so make sure to add that to your order too.
  • 04-03-2014
    meltingfeather
    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    Sounds plausible that an inflated tube compresses the rim inwards. 60psi is like two and half times too high though, is not it?

    "Sounds plausible" is armchair quarterbacking.
    What you find when you actually do it and measure it (reality) is that bead seating causes the drop. Pressure does virtually nothing.
    There is a thread posted here that I started on this very topic with measurements and figures.