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  1. #5551
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    Where did the rest of this thresd go?

    Where did the last two weeks of this thread go?
    David c did you order rims from LB without rim bed holes?
    That sounds like a total freaking genius, I am thinking there is no downside to this except getting 72-82 nipples fished in. Sounds like a total PITA, but worth it IMHO

  2. #5552
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    100% agree.
    I tape once in ~5 minutes and done. Seals first time, every time. Not having to worry about tape width is a kind of hilarious reason, but like vik said, to each his own.
    The only sealing issues I've seen have been at the valve hole... nothing to do with tape.
    Doing it multiple times on one wheelset is commitment, that's for sure.
    What happens if you break a spoke?
    Of course for a pro like you, nothing ever goes wrong. But for the rest of us, it's just one less thing that can go wrong on our bikes. I would quote every single post in this thread asking about which rim tape width to use, which rim tape to use, which rim strip to use, etc, but that be worthless coz these people are not to your "standards" obviously.

    And if you break a spoke, you simply take it out of the hub, take it out of the nipple, side a new one in the hub and thread it into the nipple. At your expertise level, I'm surprised to see you asking about such a basic repair. Glad I could help.


    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  3. #5553
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    Hey David C,

    Can you point me at any online guidance for nipple-fishing methods? I might give that a try on my next build.

    I've always preferred "native" tubeless UST style rims, in part because there is no tape, but also because the rim profile has typically meant much easier initial tire seating/sealing. Eliminating the tire side holes will mean no tape, but I suppose the tire seating/sealing won't be any different than a yellow taped rim.
    I would not advise to google up "nipple fishing" as you might not get the expected search results, but I would invite you to browse the last pages of the 26" am carbon rims thread where I explain in details how I did mines.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  4. #5554
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    Where did the last two weeks of this thread go?
    David c did you order rims from LB without rim bed holes?
    That sounds like a total freaking genius, I am thinking there is no downside to this except getting 72-82 nipples fished in. Sounds like a total PITA, but worth it IMHO
    Yes, I did order my rims from LB without rim bed holes. Like I said, to me it's simply one less thing that can go wrong or to worry about. Others might not find it worth, but most of them also never bothered actually owning wheels with undrilled rim bed. I laced my own and I'm running tubeless DIY studded tires standard folding, not tubeless ready tites) with home-brew sealant and since I had the choice, I decided I won't have to deal with rim tape on this wheelset at all (lighter and cheaper too).

    I have no idea about missing posts in this thread. Everything seems to be fine on my side.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  5. #5555
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    Does not look like any of those would hold a full 1 ltr bottle through a rock garden to me.
    That said I will probably get one with my rim order.

  6. #5556
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    Ok I really did look but, I am assuming you were able to get undrilled rims from LB?
    Yeah I don't get the downside to this if you use brass nipples.
    Tape is messy, especially gorilla or mastic.
    Real genius I say.

  7. #5557
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    I am just a noob here(actually since 2000!!) on the forums, always been a lurker. My bad with the thread loss.
    It has turned to mash potatoes here so winter riding season is over here.
    Thanks for the GREAT idea.
    I do wonder if it really saves much weight, how much material is drilled out compared with the weight of the tape.
    I personally could care less about weight.
    I do care about a mechanical failure 9 miles from the nearest jeep rd though.
    It just goes well with my riding philosophy, Less parts, Less to break, Less walking= more fun.

  8. #5558
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    Ok I really did look but, I am assuming you were able to get undrilled rims from LB?
    Yeah I don't get the downside to this if you use brass nipples.
    Tape is messy, especially gorilla or mastic.
    Real genius I say.
    Yes, they don't show it as an option when ordering, but instead of using the order form, shout them an email with your full order and specs (aka rim width, finish, hole count, undrilled bed, etc) and they'll reply you to confirm and give you the final price including shipping and paypal fees, then you confirm it's good with you and ask them to send you the paypal bill and you're all set.

    I did order the bottle cage n04 model, looks to be the most sturdy of all and honestly if you're shredding rock gardens, you'd be having a hydration pack to sip water from and just strap down the bottle and use it to fill back the water bladder in your pack when it's empty.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  9. #5559
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    Does not look like any of those would hold a full 1 ltr bottle through a rock garden to me.
    That said I will probably get one with my rim order.

  10. #5560
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    I was a messenger for ten+ years. My shoulders DO NOT like packs any more.
    I will do 50 mile backcountry trips with one 1ltr bottle and refill out of high country stream.
    Camelbacks have there place, other peoples backs!
    Just being funny. But I really do use a ball bungee or velcro ski strap around the bottle and frame. Guess I need to find a better cage, current one is solid cro-mo and apparently not strong enough.
    And I did bend that puppy in hard towards the frame, so hard you have to bend it to get the bottle in.
    But for $11 #04 should be cool for the bling factor on my sons bike.

  11. #5561
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    Title says it all.
    But the thread just quits last week sometime now, i was reading it last night, now nothing?
    http://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/icons/icon8.png
    Want to find out from david c about getting these rims without drilled tire bed. No holes except valve stem.
    I really like the idea of no tape, though it sounds like a PITA to get the nipples in place, sounds worth it to me.
    I ordered a set this way last week. Katrin emailed me back, and from what I can tell they understood my request perfectly. I also attached a picture of a Haven Carbon rim to illustrate what I meant, as they use an undrilled bed. Only time will tell... Thanks again to DavidC for the tips and advice on the UST-ready rim idea!!!!

  12. #5562
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    David C...you seem like a great guy and a good member here. There is something that has been driving me crazy for a long time now.................It's "mine". Not "mines".

  13. #5563
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Haha, thanks getthocop, I'll try to pay attention to that one too. English is my second language, so my apologizes for butchering these threads every now and then.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  14. #5564
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    Quote Originally Posted by singletrackkid View Post
    Do nipple washers help at all? I have no wheel building knowledge, but just thought I'd ask...
    THey might... if you can get them in there. I bought some nipple washers and ended up not using them. It was going to be a massive PITA to install them. I would have had to stick them in the valve stem hole and rattle them around the inside of the rim until they got to the target spoke hole, then hold them with a dental pick while I poked a spoke and nipple through it... that is, if I was lucky enough not to get it stuck inside the rim cavity.

    In the end, it wasn't worth it. I built the wheels without them and they've been flawless for a year and a half. So... up to do, but I don't think it would have been worth the hassle... IMHO.

  15. #5565
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    THey might... if you can get them in there. I bought some nipple washers and ended up not using them. It was going to be a massive PITA to install them. I would have had to stick them in the valve stem hole and rattle them around the inside of the rim until they got to the target spoke hole, then hold them with a dental pick while I poked a spoke and nipple through it... that is, if I was lucky enough not to get it stuck inside the rim cavity.

    In the end, it wasn't worth it. I built the wheels without them and they've been flawless for a year and a half. So... up to do, but I don't think it would have been worth the hassle... IMHO.
    I tried using them (washers) but was having a hard time getting them in the hole, so I stopped. Then I was having a hard time getting the nipple in the hole to line it up with the spoke.
    I finally figured out that using an old spoke and partaily threading a nipple backward and then sticking it thru the hole to line it up to the spoke.
    I assume I could have put a washer on the nipple first and then put it into the wheel.
    Ibis HD3
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  16. #5566
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    I'm thinking of getting the Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs for my setup. I understand they're convertible from one axle type to another.

    Does it matter what type I get initially? I can't find any indication that it does, but just wanted to confirm. I currently need a QR rear axle. But it seems like more and more bikes have the 12mm thru axle, so it would be nice to just buy the conversion kit if I need it and bring the wheels with me to my next bike.

    Also, can anyone give me a ballpark cost of what I should be paying to have a wheel built in the states? I'm in Dallas, Texas. Does it differ for a front vs a rear?

  17. #5567
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    I just had wheels built, 80 for the set.

  18. #5568
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Lbs usually charge about $30 per wheel to lace up and tension from the ground up. Assuming you have all the parts on hand already. Some may charge more and include a life-time or limited time free wheel true for the original owner, some may offer better built quality, etc.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  19. #5569
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    Thanks. That seems quite reasonable.

    Now trying to parse the info on spokes. I thought one size might be enough, but it seems people talk about using 3 sizes. More complex than I anticipated. Maybe I should let the builder sort that out.

  20. #5570
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    You should let the builder sort that out!
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  21. #5571
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    You should let the builder sort that out!
    I give my wheel builder the rims and hubs I want to use and let him source the spokes and nipples based on a discussion of what should be used.

    That way he gets input on a critical part of the process that will affect his build and he can ensure things will work out well.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  22. #5572
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I give my wheel builder the rims and hubs I want to use and let him source the spokes and nipples based on a discussion of what should be used.

    That way he gets input on a critical part of the process that will affect his build and he can ensure things will work out well.
    Seems like the best way to do it

    Posted via mobile

  23. #5573
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    Cool, that helps a lot. Thank you all very much!

  24. #5574
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    Thanks for those who have replied to my issues with my light bicycle wheels, bontrager tubeless and Vee Rubber tires. DId the windex trick to determine that air was leaking from the valve. Replaced bontrager tubeless valve with stans. Slowed down leak but did not eliminate. Really cranked down on the valve "donut" but still did not eliminate. Shot it with some spray on sealant. Seemed to stop but next morning flat. Also switched tire (Maxxis Ikon). Going to try stans tape and yet another new stans valve. WIsh me luck!

  25. #5575
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    I probably should have asked this question before I ordered... Has anyone here ordered a complete build wheel set from LB have received the wheels untrue? Even slightly untrue? I ordered a 33 mm Wide wheel set with hope evo 2 40T hubs and pillar Aero X-tra 1420 spokes. Id like to see if they do a good job sending out trued wheels and not half assed builds. Thanks

  26. #5576
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvossman View Post
    Thanks for those who have replied to my issues with my light bicycle wheels, bontrager tubeless and Vee Rubber tires. DId the windex trick to determine that air was leaking from the valve. Replaced bontrager tubeless valve with stans. Slowed down leak but did not eliminate. Really cranked down on the valve "donut" but still did not eliminate. Shot it with some spray on sealant. Seemed to stop but next morning flat. Also switched tire (Maxxis Ikon). Going to try stans tape and yet another new stans valve. WIsh me luck!
    If the tubeless tape on the wheel isn't covering all the spoke holes on the wheel the air will leak out from the valve stem. You shouldn't have to crank down on the valve nut, only hand tighten. To fix, you have to rip off the old tape and apply a new layer of tape on the correct way.

  27. #5577
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    This is the exact reason i am getting mine with a un-drilled rim bed.
    david c has a whole thing on how to get the nipples in place, like fishing electrical wires.
    I have had this same problem before, I finally used tape made for sealing osb(oriented strand board) roof decking. That stuff is way better than gorilla tape.
    I do have a couple of the stans half tube things that would work better for clean up but why put in a third or half a tube when you don' even need tape if they are un-drilled.
    Seems like a win-win except for the 2-3 hours to fish 72 nipples.

  28. #5578
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    ASiameseCat great post. I was wondering how after he tightened the valve stem really tight there could still be such leakage. I never saw the big picture that any spoke hole that leaks will get into the space between the bead area and the spoke bed and the only way out is the valve stem and the spoke holes/nipples. Although, I have to think that most of the time, it would leak out around the nipples, but if the builder used grease on the nipple seats the point of leas resistance would be the valve stem.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  29. #5579
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvossman View Post
    Thanks for those who have replied to my issues with my light bicycle wheels, bontrager tubeless and Vee Rubber tires. DId the windex trick to determine that air was leaking from the valve. Replaced bontrager tubeless valve with stans. Slowed down leak but did not eliminate. Really cranked down on the valve "donut" but still did not eliminate. Shot it with some spray on sealant. Seemed to stop but next morning flat. Also switched tire (Maxxis Ikon). Going to try stans tape and yet another new stans valve. WIsh me luck!
    The valve stem needs to seat properly on the drilled out valve hole to seal properly.

    I've had exactly the same issue you did with slow leak I couldn't seal [not a LB rim].

    Make sure you clean the tape out of the valve stem hole - use a round file.

    Then look at the rubber gasket around the valve stem and your valve stem hole. How do they fit together?

    On my leaking rims with an older style of Stan's stems I needed to drill the inner part of the valve stem hole a bit to allow the valve stem to seal properly. Once I did that I don't lose air for weeks at a time.

    On my LB rims with a newer style of Stans valve stem I just needed to clean the tape out of the hole and it sealed right up no issues at all and hasn't lost air in over a week.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  30. #5580
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    Just got this from LB
    "For 29er 35mm wide rims DH version, it is 460g+/-15, USD187/pcs.
    It is ok to manufacture this rim without spoke holes on rim bed, but it is should be not deep enough for nipples to go throught inside.
    We only manufacture 26er 33mm wide &30mm deep rims without spoke holes on rim bed for customers. So, 29er 35mm wide &25mm deep rim, we do not suggest."


    Thanks,
    Nancy

    What am I not getting here, i mean there is plenty of room for the nipples inside the rim,
    It looks to be around 14mm, and the nipples even if they are 16mm would slide in at an angle.
    Can someone smarter than me chime in here.
    david c your my undrilled rim bed guru, what do you think?
    Worst case scenario is I have to drill out the holes myself.
    I really want to get these rims ordered, I just saw some bare ground yesterday, but I still got 2+ ft of snow on my trails.
    Thanks

  31. #5581
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    Just received my 27mm hookless and weights are 339 and 349.
    33mm 26er is 355g

    front 698g rear 855g which is 1553g total
    Last edited by manninen; 04-01-2014 at 12:32 PM.

  32. #5582
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    Just got this from LB
    "For 29er 35mm wide rims DH version, it is 460g+/-15, USD187/pcs.
    It is ok to manufacture this rim without spoke holes on rim bed, but it is should be not deep enough for nipples to go throught inside.
    We only manufacture 26er 33mm wide &30mm deep rims without spoke holes on rim bed for customers. So, 29er 35mm wide &25mm deep rim, we do not suggest."


    Thanks,
    Nancy

    What am I not getting here, i mean there is plenty of room for the nipples inside the rim,
    It looks to be around 14mm, and the nipples even if they are 16mm would slide in at an angle.
    Can someone smarter than me chime in here.
    david c your my undrilled rim bed guru, what do you think?
    Worst case scenario is I have to drill out the holes myself.
    I really want to get these rims ordered, I just saw some bare ground yesterday, but I still got 2+ ft of snow on my trails.
    Thanks
    Look up the rim profile on the cross section drawing. It needs to be at least 12mm or more clearance between the nipple rim bed and tire rim bed. I'm not sure if the rims you're ordering are deep enough, I haven't checked the specs of the 29er rims lately. If you could find the cross section drawing of the rim, I would be able to tell you if they are deep enough to handle a 12mm nipple or not.

    Edit. I've looked up the new hookless 27mm wide 29er rim and you have less than 14mm clearance, so I wouldn't advise to go with undrilled rim bed right now, you won't have enough room to flip the nipple properly, or you probably have a very hard time flipping them, simply because the nipple hole in the rim is a snug fit and the nipple won't go trough unless it's perfectly aligned and straight. My rims had 18mm of clearance and with 12mm nipples, it wasn't easy for many of them to flip using the derailleur cable technique. I'd suggest you check with them if they will come out with a similar profile of the 26" one, but in 29". Or if they can confirm the exact clearance so you can decide if it's worth it or not. If you can figure out a way to make the 12mm nipple flip inside a 14mm cavity, go for it. If not, you're signing up for a world of headaches.

    Worst worst worst case, just put 26" wheels on your bike
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  33. #5583
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    My 27mm hookless rims showed up today..Well I picked them up today. The shipping label was 100% correct, yet the USPS managed to send them to 2 Post Offices and then back to the distribution center 25mi from my house. After waiting 45min at my post office, they finally located them. I was less than pleased. I plan to lace them up ASAP so that I can test them out before my first race next weekend, and didn't want them to dick around with them anymore than they had.

    Ordered March 1st, arrived April 1st. Out of box they look great, 32h UD matte finish. Weights were 443 and 462, so on par and slightly lower than advertised. I'll use the "heavier" rim for the rear wheel. Measured the ERD on 3 spots each rim, 596. Larger than the listed 592, so spoke length changed around 1mm. Keep that in mind for anyone ordering spokes before rims..

    I'll post some pics this weekend.

    -Gabe

  34. #5584
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    Oh bummer. Y
    ou might be right the interior width is not as tall as the 26" 30mm as opposed to 25mm for the 29"
    What do you think 14mm or 13.?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-new-29er-hookless-35w-25d.jpg  


  35. #5585
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Trailice View Post
    Oh bummer. Y
    ou might be right the interior width is not as tall as the 26" 30mm as opposed to 25mm for the 29"
    What do you think 14mm or 13.?
    Doing the following maths from the drawing you posted, I get 13.5mm of max clearance, most likely to be less than 13mm actually.

    OD of 633 minus ERD of 589 equals 44mm, divided by two to make it radius instead of diameter, so 22mm from the ERD to OD, then minus 8.5mm equals 13.5mm, which is the height of the inner cavity of the rim. However, this doesn't account for the thickness of the middle wall, so I'd say you should remove another 1mm or so, which brings us down to 12.5mm at best. Sorry buddy.

    No shame about riding 26" wheels though.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  36. #5586
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    Carbon wheels from LB. Got the wheels in Nov 2013, and got the bike in July 2013. Wheels built with Hope pro 2 evo (24t sadly, didnt know about 40t at the time), DT Alpine 3 spokes, and Red Nipples provided by LB.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-xtc-29er-2-2013_carbon-wheels.jpg  


  37. #5587
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    Thanks, that figured that out. Glad there are smart people on the interwebs.
    I am probably not the first person to ask LB for undrilled rim beds in the 35mm wide 29"
    I do ride downhill so 26" is all groovey too with me.
    These are for my back country/glades/enduro one speed bike.
    Oh they joy of riding sans trail.
    My current velocity blunts are just hilarous, after half a season.
    They are roundish, no bad flat spots, but wobble between almost every spoke.
    Just cant be trued, I even made a crazy jig to attempt to re-straighten them to no avail.
    They work fine and in actual use and are rideable for now.
    But this will the downhill version 460grams+/-
    I will be using surly uber super new hubs with alpine III spokes.
    I am a anti weight weenie or this better not break way the hell out here kinda rider.
    I was seriously contemplating the sun mtx33, but with chunky monkeys your getting close to 2.5 kilos per wheel.
    These will keep it under 2K per wheel and just as rugged i hope.

  38. #5588
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    Yes, they are 596erd so i'm not gonna use my chosen spokes. Gonna sell those super comps and maybe go for alpine3's
    On 26 wheel on spoke set there were six too short spokes so april 1st wasn't good day for me

  39. #5589
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    Why alpine 3's on xc bikes,
    The only reason I am using them is well, they break sticks better than supercomps.
    Why get a xc light rim and put tandem spokes on it?
    Kind of defeats the purpose imho.
    Sorry about that 596 erd that sucks.
    And 6 short spokes sound weird to me.

  40. #5590
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    Manninen,

    Not sure if you figured out the cause of your 6 too short spokes yet, but if not, here is a thread on WW discussing several possible causes of that issue: Wheelbuilding - Every 5th spoke too short... - Weight Weenies

    I hope it proves helpful.

  41. #5591
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    no

    246mm 30pc
    242mm 6pc

    just sold me wrong spokes, could be whole stock wrong in that company

  42. #5592
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    Just ordered a pair of 29er hookless, going to have them built up on hope pro 2 evos. What spokes are folks running with these? Got supercomp on my e13 trs (destroyed the rear rim at the weekend hence the move to these), been happy with them and thinking of going for the same again, anything else I should be considering? Also are all brass nipples much of a muchness, if not what's good?

  43. #5593
    ballbuster
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    To each his own, but I just don't get that. It took me 60 seconds to wrap a layer of Stan's tape around my LB rim. Then another few minutes to install a tire tubeless. And done.

    If I want to take the tire off I don't reapply the tape. I just pull the tire and install the new one.

    I don't see any savings of time or hassle getting a rim bed that's not drilled. I just see the PITA of fishing nipples through.
    Seems to me that it's an even more massive of a PITA. In my case, I've only broken straight gauge spokes... oh, and S-bend bladed bike spokes. Those things suck big rocks through a garden hose, I tell ya. I've only broken nipples since only using double butted spokes in my builds.

    During a ride if I broke a nipple, I'd say to my self, 'Oh, dangit. I'll have to fix that when I get home.' 15 Minute fix, and back on the trail like it never happened. If I broke a nipple and had to thread it through the whole gawdang rim, I would be swearing up a storm, dreading the hour or two of fixing that nightmare.

    So, while a no-hole tire bed is sexy as heck, I would just say no.

  44. #5594
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    HI gang. By the way if the moderator feels that my questions are better served on the tire/wheel forum rather than this long chinese rim thread, let me know.

    Ok, so pulled tires out. Cleaned out all the gunk. Especially at the valve hole Made sure bontrager strips were on correctly (heck even swapped them with each other for good luck) and put new tires on the rims. Double checked to make sure the stand no tube valves were sitting correctly on the strip. The results were:

    Now both wheels leak at the valve holes.
    One of the new tires leaks along the seal.

    At this point my options are..
    a) go back to the bontrager valve stems (maybe buy new)
    b) redo everything with stans (despite what BBrown says).

    My concern with just using stans tape is that iss doesn't have the little beads that the bontrager and the old stans strips had. Should i be worried that the tires wont have anything to hook into? (They are maxxis icons if that makes a difference).

    a) Now

  45. #5595
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    I have 350K miles on bikes and have NEVER broken a brass nipple.
    I have pulled through spokes right out of the rim more than a couple of times, had them snap in half, way too many breaks at the J-bend, I have had armadillos, porcupines and pigeons run square into wheels, as well as a t-shirt and a couple thousand sticks.
    I have tacoed mtx 33s,single tracks and all sorts of mavics in 26".
    If I had had one broken nipple in that time I would not consider a undrilled tire bed.
    But I never have broken a brass nipple.
    How do nipples break?
    Too much tension or what?

  46. #5596
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    Trailice: You could always file down 1 mm from each nipple to ensure they fit. I am being half-serious here. You wouldn't lose any of the threaded part, and you would only lose maybe 20% of your wrench flats which would still be fine on a brass nipple. Especially if you used a Park SW-40 for final tensioning. Those things are really really snug on the nipple.

    Obviously it would add to the PITA of the whole process, but imagine the satisfaction of being done with it after

  47. #5597
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    BTW, Mavic claims 4x the fatigue life on their "Fore" drilled alloy rims because one of the rim walls is uninterrupted by holes. How this would translate to composite, I don't know. Just throwing it out there.

  48. #5598
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Seems to me that it's an even more massive of a PITA. In my case, I've only broken straight gauge spokes... oh, and S-bend bladed bike spokes. Those things suck big rocks through a garden hose, I tell ya. I've only broken nipples since only using double butted spokes in my builds.

    During a ride if I broke a nipple, I'd say to my self, 'Oh, dangit. I'll have to fix that when I get home.' 15 Minute fix, and back on the trail like it never happened. If I broke a nipple and had to thread it through the whole gawdang rim, I would be swearing up a storm, dreading the hour or two of fixing that nightmare.

    So, while a no-hole tire bed is sexy as heck, I would just say no.
    Lol, I'd easily imagine you spending over an hour trying to fish in a single nipple, since obviously you have no clues on what you're talking about.

    3 minutes top is what it'll take you if the nipple to be replaced is the one further away from the valve hole. 30 seconds or less for the 6~8 closest nipples and between a minute or two for all the others. The only difference would be not having to redo your rim tape setup or in the case of using the gorilla tape with an old inner tube valve, you wouldn't have to also retape the valve. In both cases, you'd still need to pluck the valve out anyway, unless your setup has the valve independent from the tape.

    In the end, it's only gonna take you 3 minutes more to do the job if you have undrilled vs drilled. You'll still have to take the tire off, clean the sealant, take the tape/valve out, shake the old nipple out of there, get the new lube nipple in, etc. No big deal.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  49. #5599
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    I for one do not believe all the spewing of the marketing department of Mavic. Most people will tell you that if you finish the holes property there will be no stress risers and that will lead to longer life. I think Mavic is possibly using poor quality drilled wheels to make their expensive products look better.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  50. #5600
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mutantclover View Post
    BTW, Mavic claims 4x the fatigue life on their "Fore" drilled alloy rims because one of the rim walls is uninterrupted by holes. How this would translate to composite, I don't know. Just throwing it out there.
    Uncut fiber is stronger than perforated fiber. Pretty basic science right here.

    However, it wouldn't make much of a difference since the fiber being perforated in this case isn't the one dealing with much of the rim strength. So it's negligible. Using internal nipples does make the rim stronger as the nipple hole is only 2~3mm vs regular nipples that requires a 4~5mm hole. The internal nipples also distribute their load on a larger area than the standard nipples would, making the overall rim stronger and more durable. Cons are no wheel tuning with tires on and you can go undrilled, but pros are a stronger wheel and less chance to round off a nipple and a cleaner look.

    So many ways to enjoy your new wheels
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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