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  1. #5401
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    Production runs. They produce one exact model for example 200 bead hook less 29er 3k gloss and then when stock gets low they schedule production of that model again. By the time they get produced, they are on backorder.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  2. #5402
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    I don't think my 29er rims are less likely to be in stock than the guy above - same except UD (which I thought was more common)
    Based on my experience with cyclocross frames, the matte and gloss finishes are more prevalent, thus UD will typically take longer until demand increases.

  3. #5403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas View Post
    I placed my order for a set of 29" am 35mm hookless rims, on the 22 January.
    They arrived here in Denmark 7 days ago, they just cleared customs and arrived today :-)
    Ordered UD Glossy.
    Finish is very nice.
    Weight is 418 and 430gram
    Will build them with Hope Pro 2 Evo 40t,Revolution spokes and black alu nipples.
    Weight will be 1656gr.
    Pictures will be posted, after i build them on friday

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    Can you measure the ERD to confirm it's 589mm?
    Btw, that carbon rim/aluminum nip corrosion issue is real! I'm going back to brass for my new build.


  4. #5404
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    Can you measure the ERD to confirm it's 589mm?
    Btw, that carbon rim/aluminum nip corrosion issue is real! I'm going back to brass for my new build.

    Yikes!

    Yeah, I pop alu nipples on aluminum wheels after about a year or two of riding them. After I pop and replace around 4 or 5 alu nipples, I figure the rest aren't far behind so I relace the wheel. I just switched to brass. IMO, the added work is not worth saving that extra 20 grams or so, Especially so, when I already dropped off 60 grams in the rim by switching to carbon. Doubly so I round off a few alu nipples with a spoke wrench if they get sticky.

    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    And before anyone says that it has to do with what you ordered, I don't think my 29er rims are less likely to be in stock than the guy above - same except UD (which I thought was more common)
    Yeah... what is the most common? I got the AM29er rims in 3k weave with matte finish. The 3k weave is pretty subtle with the matte finish. It doesn't look too 'carbon fibery'. Most folks that comment on my rims have been riding with me for a year or two, and say, 'Oh, you got carbon rims! When did you get those? Oh, I didn't notice!'

  5. #5405
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    I do not understand how some people get theirs in a matter of weeks, while others wait ages.

    Light bicycle have finally told me that they shipped mine, 62 days after I ordered them.
    Any difference on lightbicycle wheelset than xmiplay? Seems like xmiplay have the wheelset on stock and ready to ship in 3 days as per the person I talked to. Just wanna know if there's a difference on them, which one is better before I go amd order it. Thanks

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  6. #5406
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    And before anyone says that it has to do with what you ordered, I don't think my 29er rims are less likely to be in stock than the guy above - same except UD (which I thought was more common)
    It has to be dependent on what you order. They make a big run of certain configs, if they have your order in stock it's going right out, if not you have to get in the production line. I ordered 3k matte, and they obviously weren't in stock due to the wait. I would have thought UD matte would be the most popular, but it sounds like if you want to get your rims faster order 3k glossy, or ask what is in stock.

  7. #5407
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    Sv: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    Can you measure the ERD to confirm it's 589mm?
    Btw, that carbon rim/aluminum nip corrosion issue is real! I'm going back to brass for my new build.

    Using Roger Musson way to meassure my 29" am rims 35mm hookless are 589mm erd

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  8. #5408
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    Can anybody explain why carbon rims, should corrode alu nipples???

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  9. #5409
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    What kind of ALU nipples did you use? Were they anodized?

  10. #5410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas View Post
    Can anybody explain why carbon rims, should corrode alu nipples???

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    Galvanic corrosion- Google it- plenty of info if you want.

    It's also a problem in the Radio Control world.

    And real Aircraft:
    "Fiber-reinforced plastics are corrosion resistant, but plastics reinforced with carbon fibers can induce galvanic corrosion in attached aluminum structure." from Aero 07 - Design for Corrosion


    nternational Comanche Society Report No. 040805
    Page 3 of 9 4/18/2005
    GALVANIC CORROSION
    The ACS contains pictures of what appears to be a spinner bulkhead
    contained between the engine crankshaft flange and an aluminum
    fixed pitch propeller. The photos also show substantial galvanic
    activity between the carbon bulkhead and the propeller mating face.
    By themselves, composites are generally considered corrosion free.
    However, carbon and graphite laminates can act as a cathode when
    joined to metals in the presence of an electrolyte, such as moisture.
    Moisture in this case can be due to rain, washing the airplane, and
    most importantly, molecular moisture found in the air as a
    consequence of humidity.
    Composites absorb and desorb moisture in accordance with the 1D
    Fick’s Law. The moisture ingress is controlled by the diffusion
    constant, which is a function of temperature. Unprotected composites
    in contact with reactive metals should expect higher corrosion rates in
    high humidity environments, such as Florida.
    This corrosion problem between unprotected composites and metals
    has been around for a long time, about 30 years
    1
    ,
    2
    . An initial reaction
    to the ACS is “everyone knows about this, so how did this happen?”
    In the early 1970’s, Lockheed was developing an upper stage cone
    for the C4 Trident using composite fiber cloth and aluminum
    honeycomb. The Navy required a 30 day salt spray test. Upon
    retrieval from the test chamber, nearly all the aluminum honeycomb
    was gone. This news spread quickly throughout the composites
    industry, and full recognition is made that a dielectric barrier is
    required between the composite laminate and mating metal structure.
    The generally accepted practice is to use a layer of fiberglass in the
    layup. Additional common methods include a Titanium shim, an
    adhesive layer, and non-metallic high temperature primers.
    1
    “Environmental Effect on Epoxy Matrix Composites”, G. S. Springer, ASTM STP 674, 1978, pp 291-
    312.
    2
    “Galvanic Corrosion between Non-Metallic Composites and Metals”, F. Bellucci, Corrosion, Vol
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  11. #5411
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    Thanks twotone, that equates to about 56mm. My saguaro 2.2 rear on Pacenti TL28 (23mm inner dia) comes up about 56-57mm and Mountain King II 2.2 comes up at about 55-56mm on the same rim. In theory that sounds ok as I took a punt on the tyre already!.

    Amazing how a 7mm increase in dia only gives a slight increase in width though.

    As has been said though it will be interesting to see how that width translates into actual volume and grip. Hopefully there will be enough cush.

    The 2.1 GC weighs 650g with some dried gunk in (so guess about 625g) which gives me a 75g saving over the Saguaro and about a 50g gain over the MK II RS (albeit for a tougher tyre) for approximately the same volume.

    Interesting info on tape widths incidentally, maybe I should take a chance on 25mm and then double wrap it if I struggle to get the tyres to air up.

    Also good to hear the erd is as advertised.... especially as a deal on Revs came up and I already took a punt. Hopefully will be able to collect the rims from customs tomorrow and crack on with the build this weekend... wohoo.

  12. #5412
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Additional common methods include a Titanium shim, an
    adhesive layer, and non-metallic high temperature primers.
    So I thought this is basically what anodized aluminum nipples do to prevent galvanic corrosion.

  13. #5413
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    The stainless steel spokes pierce the anodized layer that is only a few molecules thick. Be sure to tell Meltingfinger about this. He argued relentlessly with me that this could not happen when it was brought up over a year ago.
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  14. #5414
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    Well that's enough proof for me.
    I had one builder say that aluminum would be fine I shouldn't have any problem's.
    Then when I asked the second builder he said it's better to play it safe and use brass.
    So brass it is for me.
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  15. #5415
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    The stainless steel spokes pierce the anodized layer that is only a few molecules thick. Be sure to tell Meltingfinger about this. He argued relentlessly with me that this could not happen when it was brought up over a year ago.
    Don't take this the wrong way, I'm trying to learn here. I have some rims on the way and I'm trying to decide if I really do need brass or DT Swiss aluminum will be enough.

    Doesn't the spoke contact the nipple in the inside and the nipple contacts the rim only on the outside?

    So if a spoke rubs off the anodized layer in the inside, it can still corrode from the inside out despite not touching carbon? Is that what you are saying?



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  16. #5416
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    Quote Originally Posted by PauLCa916 View Post
    I put my order in for a pair of 28 hole Bead hook less 29 3k Gloss on March 7 th. just got email with tracking number today that they shipped.
    Now let's see how long they take to get to California U.S.A
    I ordered a pair of 32 hole hookless matte UD March 1st..Kartrin @LB said they would be finished and shipped this week..No e-mail, and it's definitely Saturday there now, so I'm hoping next week they ship.

  17. #5417
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    Brimorga; I am not taking you wrong, just explaining that anodizing does not prevent galvanic corrosion in nipples because the stainless spokes break through the anodizing. The corrosion can happen between stainless and aluminum and also having all the carbon around will increase the corrosion. Also, in my opinion the nipple in direct contact with the carbon even though anodized, the potential is so strong between carbon and aluminum that I think corrosion could occur through the few molecules of anodizing.

    Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


    Just as in the illustration towards the bottom of this article where the zinc brick protects the rest of the metal under the boat, the sacrificial part does not have to be in contact with the things that are not corroding, just have a higher galvanic potential. Just like the zinc on the bottom of the boat the aluminum nipple is the sacrificial metal in the wheels since it has more galvanic potential than stainless or carbon.
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  18. #5418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabriel J View Post
    I ordered a pair of 32 hole hookless matte UD March 1st..Kartrin @LB said they would be finished and shipped this week..No e-mail, and it's definitely Saturday there now, so I'm hoping next week they ship.
    no, it is friday

  19. #5419
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    Crap..I meant to write Friday. I'm too tired to be typing!

  20. #5420
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    prepare to be let down. i got that "will ship before..." from them before.

    hopefully you have something else to throw on in the meantime. this is my first 29er, so i don't have that luxury.

  21. #5421
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    These ones are to re-lace my SS race wheels..I would be happy if I could get them before the 1st race of the season next month...If not, whenever they do show I'll have them for the next one.

  22. #5422
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    The best wheel builder on MTBR admits that an aluminum nipple built wheel lasts five years. He is fine with that lifespan and assumes his customers are too.

    I have worked with three wheel builders over last four years and two of them strongly encouraged brass nipples and it had nothing to do with corrosion but with ease of service.

    Lastly, what is Tom Boonen using at Paris Roubaix? I think 2013 was his first year on aluminum nipples?

  23. #5423
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    Even though I knew about the risk, I went Al on my Derby rims.
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  24. #5424
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Oh wait, Boonen didn't race in 2013!

    More data, wheel builder dot com sells the Zipp Firecrest 303 disc build with brass nipples:

    http://www.wheelbuilder.com/custom-z...ont-wheel.html

  25. #5425
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    I do not understand how some people get theirs in a matter of weeks, while others wait ages.

    Light bicycle have finally told me that they shipped mine, 62 days after I ordered them.
    Same here. Hope you can get your items soon. I ordered a pair hookless 27 on Jan 18th, still no update. Some friends told me Light Bicycle makes only dozen rims each day, I think that is why we wait so long time, guys who can get the rims soon just lucky they have the rims on stock.

  26. #5426
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    prepare to be let down. i got that "will ship before..." from them before.

    hopefully you have something else to throw on in the meantime. this is my first 29er, so i don't have that luxury.
    Wouldn't you know...Got up this morning, had an e-mail in my inbox with the tracking info for the rims. Hopefully they make it here by end of next week so that I can measure the ERD and get my spokes/nipples on order.

    I'm using alloy nipples on this build fully aware of potential corrosion issues. I have the luxury of doing the work myself, so if I need to do a nipple change down the road I'm ok with it.

  27. #5427
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    I got mail too, said they´re gonna send my rims on monday.
    Took risk and i have spokes for stock ERD

  28. #5428
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    The stainless steel spokes pierce the anodized layer that is only a few molecules thick. Be sure to tell Meltingfinger about this. He argued relentlessly with me that this could not happen when it was brought up over a year ago.
    You are full of ****, as usual.
    Also, reading Wikipedia does not make you a corrosion expert.
    IIRC you were confusing different types of corrosion and shooting terms you found through Google from the hip like you know something.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
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  29. #5429
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    Just read my posts. You by the way claimed it could never happen.
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  30. #5430
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    I looked up some enve carbon wheels and it looks like they use aluminum nipples. I'm assuming it's safe to take the risk


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  31. #5431
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    ENVE uses molded nipple holes which would tend to lower the chance of galvanic corrosion. That Said ; there are some reports of galvanic corrosion on Envy wheels.
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  32. #5432
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    I built up some LB wheels with AL nips. I'm in the PNW. I'll report back in two years and let you know what happened.
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  33. #5433
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    Quote Originally Posted by brimorga View Post
    What kind of ALU nipples did you use? Were they anodized?
    The nips in my picture are DT ano 12mm. The wheel is at least 3 yrs old w/ a lot of miles. I build my own wheels, so not a big deal to fix...however, I also noticed a previous repair (slight crack from a pinch flat) now grew into some delamination. Hopefully my new 35mm hookless rims show up soon...

  34. #5434
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Just read my posts.
    I do, which is how I know you are full of it.
    For example, you just said that the anodized surface is 4-5 MOLECULES thick. Since typical anodized coatings are on the scale of micrometers, you're telling me that a molecule in the lattice of an aluminum alloy is 0.5 micrometers across?!?
    I think even you can google that one.

    You may have some people fooled... not me.

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    You by the way claimed it could never happen.
    I did not say it could never happen, and you don't have even the basic knowledge to dialogue competently on the topic, which has never stopped you from completely making stuff up. That's unfortunate for the people who don't have enough information to see through your brazen BS.

    STFU
    Last edited by meltingfeather; 03-23-2014 at 09:23 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
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  35. #5435
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    Quote Originally Posted by brimorga View Post
    I looked up some enve carbon wheels and it looks like they use aluminum nipples. I'm assuming it's safe to take the risk


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    I could be wrong but I thought I read they switched to brass.
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  36. #5436
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    Quote Originally Posted by brimorga View Post
    So I thought this is basically what anodized aluminum nipples do to prevent galvanic corrosion.
    The problem is that the anodized layer is super thin, like in the micron kinda scale. It's easy to scratch it off, especially where it contacts other things under pressure, like the shoulder of the nipple where it touches the rim that scrapes off when you tighten the nipple during assembly and truing.

    I switched to brass. Problem solved, but with a 20 gram penalty. That is a small price to pay, considering I'm 210 pounds, and would rather spend my time riding bikes than relacing my wheels on five bikes every two years.

  37. #5437
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    I could be wrong but I thought I read they switched to brass.
    You might be right. I just looked up some wheel specs for Enve on competitive cyclist, but by no means did I do any thorough research.

  38. #5438
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Yikes!

    Yeah, I pop alu nipples on aluminum wheels after about a year or two of riding them. After I pop and replace around 4 or 5 alu nipples, I figure the rest aren't far behind so I relace the wheel. I just switched to brass. IMO, the added work is not worth saving that extra 20 grams or so, Especially so, when I already dropped off 60 grams in the rim by switching to carbon. Doubly so I round off a few alu nipples with a spoke wrench if they get sticky.



    Yeah... what is the most common? I got the AM29er rims in 3k weave with matte finish. The 3k weave is pretty subtle with the matte finish. It doesn't look too 'carbon fibery'. Most folks that comment on my rims have been riding with me for a year or two, and say, 'Oh, you got carbon rims! When did you get those? Oh, I didn't notice!'
    Yeah, I choose mines in 3k matte too (26 DH rims) and they are stealth like UD but not metal looking or just plain. They blend nicely. 3k gloss is just too much bling IMO for my style, plus the clear coat points out all the imperfections and nicks/scratches over the years. Plus 3k matte is the fastest on the production line since they don't have to be painted nor do they have to lay a different wave of esthetic fiber in the end.

    Also, I've decided to use brass nipples too, because in the long run they are stronger and more corrosion resistant (I ride in snow 4 months per year and only get to ride 4 other months without snow) and the added weight is offset by using undrilled rim bed thus no rim tape needed.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  39. #5439
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    My alum nips on LB rims showed signs of corrosion after a few months. Replaced with brass nips, but bike was stolen - so can't say if problem was solved. My Derby rims are built with brass nips, no corrosion yet after 3 months. My ancient Stan's rims (on my year-round commuter) built with alum nips have no corrosion. Some factors - I live where they salt the roads in winter and I didn't do a thorough job with the spoke prep on my LB wheels. Personally I'll use brass on all my builds because I'm not the greatest builder and therefore use the spoke wrench a lot - tending to damage the alum nips.
    M

  40. #5440
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    is offset by using undrilled rim bed thus no rim tape needed.
    Heah David, C how do you get the nipple in your wheel if the rim bed is un-drilled?
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  41. #5441
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by blcman View Post
    Heah David, C how do you get the nipple in your wheel if the rim bed is un-drilled?
    By inserting a old derailleur cable trough the spoke hole, fish it out by the valve hole, insert nipple on it, crimp a open-ended cable crimp on the cable, pull everything back in, seat the nipple and wrap a rubber band around it to prevent it from falling back in, then push the cable back put by the valve hole to take off the crimp and back out by the nipple (if you pull the whole cable out by the valve hole, you risk of pulling the nipple back into the rim). Repeat 31 more times, then you can start lacing the first wheel. About 2-3 hours for both rims if you're very fast and 4-6 hours if you're just the normal home wrench. But it's worth not having to fuzz with rim tape ever again
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  42. #5442
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    Does anyone have an actual ERD on the Light Bicycle "Hookless Carbon Super Light Weight" rims from eBay? They are 27mm outer and 22mm inner. Listed ERD is 592mm.

    I'm purchasing these for a gravel grinder build to Chris King R45 disc hubs, 32 Hole 3x and would love to figure correct spoke length ahead of time.

    Based on that ERD I get a Spoke Length average of 286mm for front and rear. Buying one box of DT Comps would be great.

    Thanks!
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  43. #5443
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    Was going to post almost the exact same question: I just ordered the 27 mm wide hookless rims in the AM weight (400 g) to go with Hope Pro 2 EVO hubs I already have. I used the standard info for the Hope hubs and assumed the ERD is 592 as stated. Punching the numbers into different online calculators, the lengths I came up with were either 287 L and 289 R (prowheelbuilder and Sapim) or 286 L and 287 R (wheelpro.co.uk and DT Swiss). Anybody build these rims with Hope hubs to compare notes?

  44. #5444
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    Quote Originally Posted by TedS123 View Post
    Was going to post almost the exact same question: I just ordered the 27 mm wide hookless rims in the AM weight (400 g) to go with Hope Pro 2 EVO hubs I already have. I used the standard info for the Hope hubs and assumed the ERD is 592 as stated. Punching the numbers into different online calculators, the lengths I came up with were either 287 L and 289 R (prowheelbuilder and Sapim) or 286 L and 287 R (wheelpro.co.uk and DT Swiss). Anybody build these rims with Hope hubs to compare notes?
    Might as well disregard the prowheelbuilder calc......Wheelpro has been spot on for myself, and many others.

  45. #5445
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    Just got a tracking number on my 12k matte AM wheelset with Novatech 711/712 hubs. I asked for lighter rims and Kartrin said they were 361g and 369g which is way lighter than I was expecting. Hopefully they'll hold up with my 180lb arse. They'll be going on my rigid single speed.

  46. #5446
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Rims arrived yesterday, shipped on Tuesday. 27.5 30mm internal hookless. Weight on everything at the lower end of the scale (ordered normal).





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  47. #5447
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    brimorga: Those look like 36h to me, dauummn!

  48. #5448
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by manninen View Post
    brimorga: Those look like 36h to me, dauummn!
    You gave me a mini heart attack. Counted the holes and it's 32 like I ordered.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  49. #5449
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by TedS123 View Post
    Was going to post almost the exact same question: I just ordered the 27 mm wide hookless rims in the AM weight (400 g) to go with Hope Pro 2 EVO hubs I already have. I used the standard info for the Hope hubs and assumed the ERD is 592 as stated. Punching the numbers into different online calculators, the lengths I came up with were either 287 L and 289 R (prowheelbuilder and Sapim) or 286 L and 287 R (wheelpro.co.uk and DT Swiss). Anybody build these rims with Hope hubs to compare notes?
    Disregard the Prowheelbuilder calc- it is garbage.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  50. #5450
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    Thanks. With the wheelpro & DT calculators giving lengths only 1 mm apart, I assume it is OK to order one length for both sides? In that case, is it better to order the shorter or longer (or does it matter)?

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

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