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  1. #5151
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    What is everyone using to set these rims up tubeless. My wheelbuilder wanted to know specifically what bontrager rim strips and/or stans tape???

  2. #5152
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRILLINDK View Post
    What is everyone using to set these rims up tubeless. My wheelbuilder wanted to know specifically what bontrager rim strips and/or stans tape???
    My LB bead hook-less rims converted tubeless perfectly with 1 round of wide Stan's tape and valve.

  3. #5153
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    +1^^^^^^^ No problems with over 1000+ miles between two wheel sets.
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  4. #5154
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRILLINDK View Post
    What is everyone using to set these rims up tubeless. My wheelbuilder wanted to know specifically what bontrager rim strips and/or stans tape???
    I went with the 21mm Stans tape and valve. My Racing Ralph was a little tougher than usual to get on the rim but I was able to air it up with a hand pump.
    23 mm tape would be a better fit.
    A bicycle will take you to fantastic places....if you let it.


    Ibis fan since '08 now rolling on the big wheeled Ripley.

  5. #5155
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Anyone out there order the wheels painted? Or with stickers???

  6. #5156
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    I've decided to sell the 29" 35mm outside width LB rims that are set to be delivered to me this week. I'm having a hard to justifying the cost. That said, I'm not willing to take a loss on the deal. I would rather build them up and ride them. Ad here-
    2 New Light-Bicycle (LB) 29" 35mm Carbon Fiber Rims - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories
    If you were thinking about ordering a set, but didn't want to wait, especially with the Chinese new year delays, this would be a chance to get a set very quickly.
    If you're interested, shoot me an email at offroadcyclist at gmail dot com

  7. #5157
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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadcyclist View Post
    this would be a chance to get a set very quickly.
    Not to be a dick but this is your only selling point. 475 for a pair is more than they cost from LB direct. I can understand that you don't want to lose money but shipping from China isn't $150.. Why should anyone pay you $75 more than buying them direct?

  8. #5158
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    I paid light bicycle $425, after paypal fees and insured shipping I thought $475 would cover it. I'm not trying to make a profit

  9. #5159
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    It says right on LB website that they're 398 something, including paypal fees and shipping. Good Luck with that.

  10. #5160
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    Sold

  11. #5161
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    Hello I am new to the thread and tried to read through all of it, but its just too long. I just recevied my LB rims and want to know if others have built their wheels with nipple washers. I want to make sure my LBS has all the info before I give them my rims and hubs.

    Thanks, to anyone that replies.

  12. #5162
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    Funny I was reading up on wheel building and I ran across washers for the first time.
    With carbon I wonder if it's a good idea sounds like it will make it stronger.
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  13. #5163
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    I think one guy did washers. Don't think it is any better and adds weight and cost.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  14. #5164
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    Weight and cost.
    Two things I can live with out if it's not going to benefit me in any way.
    ​​
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    SRAM XX1
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T. SRAM XX1
    1997 Rock Hopper / Rock Shox Recon Silver / 1 x 10 SRAM X9 XO Mix XT V Brake system

  15. #5165
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    Finally got my 29" 30mm wide wheels delivered last week and set them up tubeless over the weekend.

    I ordered the set with with Novatec 771/881 hubs and Pillar aero spokes. Don't have a fancy and accurate scale at home, I just used my wife's kitchen scale and the set came in at around 1,450 grams (consider +/-10% accuracy). About 670 grams of weight saving from my Roval aluminum with Spes hubs.

    They packed the wheels nicely inside a box with divider and some foam padding. USPS tried to make a delivery, but nobody's home, so I had to pick up the package at the post office. They didn't charge me any custom duties.

    This was only my second attempt doing tubeless. First was with a Spes set with a few minor hiccups.
    I used Stan's 25mm wide rim tape and valves. Cleaned the surface with alcohol and used a tire lever (as one of the ealier poster suggested) to help pressing the tape around the rim surface. Tires are Spes Ground Control and Purgatory. They sealed up so easily with a floor pump. I don't think it could have gone easier than that.

    No ride time yet as we got 7" of fresh snow and more is coming.... It's killing me to watch the bike hanging in the garage....

  16. #5166
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    I think one guy did washers. Don't think it is any better and adds weight and cost.
    Hi Yourdaguy, Do you have a set of LB hoops? If so how do you like them? and did you get them pre built from China? of did you have someone build them for you?

    Thx.

  17. #5167
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    Re: (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    I have 3 sets. I built them myself. One with AC hubs, one with DT 240, and one with the Shimano 529 hubs. I like the AC the best, the DT are a close 2nd and while the 529's were only $79 landed they weigh a ton, but have the quietest free hub ever. I use the Bontrager strips in all.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  18. #5168
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the measurement needs to be done with the rims laced up. Doing it this way means almost nothing.
    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    But not nearly as much as the testing of the system as a whole.
    If that were the case, there would be one rim fits all out, just build the wheel differently to suit the need.
    Tantrum incoming
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  19. #5169
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    What I said does not imply what you said. The rim is part of a system and if you want to believe that measurements of just individual components matters then go ahead. I will spend my energy investigating built wheels.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  20. #5170
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    I have 3 sets. I built them myself. One with AC hubs, one with DT 240, and one with the Shimano 529 hubs. I like the AC the best, the DT are a close 2nd and while the 529's were only $79 landed they weigh a ton, but have the quietest free hub ever. I use the Bontrager strips in all.
    Did you use nipple washers. Thx

  21. #5171
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    No, I have never used them. Spoke pull through has not been an issue with these rims at all.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  22. #5172
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    No, I have never used them. Spoke pull through has not been an issue with these rims at all.
    Yes it has. I posted photos of my failures.
    Washers aren't a fix for crappy manufacturing & Q/C (in my case) though.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  23. #5173
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    Fianlly got my wheels home. Sweetness. Tallboy Ltc now weighs 26.2 Lbs. Still have to get tubeless sorted out...and wait for winter to end.

    What valve stems did all yo'all use for the XC rims? I bought a set of Stans long.

    FWIW I like the idea of beadhook-less, the sidewall is thicker so naturally the rims will be stronger. I can't complain on the price of $150 rims that weigh 350 grams each. If the manufacturer saved money by going this route they passed the savings on to me and everybody's happy.

  24. #5174
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Has anyone actually ran a set of 35mm hookless wheels?

    I'm thinking of ordering two sets for my SS and geared bikes.

  25. #5175
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJDude View Post
    Fianlly got my wheels home. Sweetness. Tallboy Ltc now weighs 26.2 Lbs. Still have to get tubeless sorted out...and wait for winter to end.

    What valve stems did all yo'all use for the XC rims? I bought a set of Stans long.

    FWIW I like the idea of beadhook-less, the sidewall is thicker so naturally the rims will be stronger. I can't complain on the price of $150 rims that weigh 350 grams each. If the manufacturer saved money by going this route they passed the savings on to me and everybody's happy.
    Are the LB beadhookless sidewalls actually thicker or are they thinner? I haven't seen the dimensioned drawings and it could easily be either way.

    It doesn't seem like either design is inherently thicker or thinner. A manufacturer could build either to any thickness. Also, it isn't clear if it is stronger to have a constant medium thickness sidewall with no hook, or a sidewall that is thick in some areas and thin in others. If the hook portion is wider, that would imply that the sidewall is stronger laterally, like an I-beam (or really an L-beam).

    It will be interesting to see how the durability compares in real world usage. So far I'm rather wary of the claims of hookless designs being stronger. My arm-chair engineering expertise says that an angle bar of steel is stronger than a flat bar of steel, and that this is analogous to rim sidewalls. Flat sidewalls could be stronger but it isn't an obvious conclusion.

  26. #5176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated View Post
    I define "light" 29er wheels as sub 1500g. That's not achievable with Hope hubs. But, I think with revos you'll be close to 1600g. Check out the DT spoke length calculator - it also calculates weight.
    By light, I assume you mean fast/quick spin-up... I realize that I'm preaching to the choir, but your hub weight will have virtually no impact on those measures. I've built some very fast wheels using Hope SS hubs - yes they're a little bit heavier than DTs and ACs, but I they're bomber and affordable to boot

  27. #5177
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    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?

    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    My arm-chair engineering expertise says that an angle bar of steel is stronger than a flat bar of steel, and that this is analogous to rim sidewalls. Flat sidewalls could be stronger but it isn't an obvious conclusion.
    It should be obvious that the side load on a rim wall comes from the tire bead and that the bead hook is outside this diameter - therefore can't carry load. The max stress will be at the root of the rim side wall. Thicker section here means stronger - all other factors being equal. Now, being that rim is round brings in other factors - think hoop stress, but that only applies to radial loads, not side loads with small deflections.
    M

  28. #5178
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Are the LB beadhookless sidewalls actually thicker or are they thinner? I haven't seen the dimensioned drawings and it could easily be either way.

    It doesn't seem like either design is inherently thicker or thinner. A manufacturer could build either to any thickness. Also, it isn't clear if it is stronger to have a constant medium thickness sidewall with no hook, or a sidewall that is thick in some areas and thin in others. If the hook portion is wider, that would imply that the sidewall is stronger laterally, like an I-beam (or really an L-beam).

    It will be interesting to see how the durability compares in real world usage. So far I'm rather wary of the claims of hookless designs being stronger. My arm-chair engineering expertise says that an angle bar of steel is stronger than a flat bar of steel, and that this is analogous to rim sidewalls. Flat sidewalls could be stronger but it isn't an obvious conclusion.
    You're thinking too much... Just ride it and find out.
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  29. #5179
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    You're thinking too much... Just ride it and find out.
    Why are you here if not to discuss carbon rims?

    There is a new light-bicycle rim design that some people claim to be stronger. Simply riding it isn't sufficient to evaluate a new design. A single person's experience isn't always enough to determine if a design is stronger or superior in some way. That's the whole point of this forum, to gain from other people's knowledge and opinions.

    If more rim manufacturers start switching to hookless sidewalls, that's a significant change and one that many people will want to know about before buying a new wheelset. Some of those people might even want to know if it is stronger.

  30. #5180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated View Post
    It should be obvious that the side load on a rim wall comes from the tire bead and that the bead hook is outside this diameter - therefore can't carry load. The max stress will be at the root of the rim side wall. Thicker section here means stronger - all other factors being equal. Now, being that rim is round brings in other factors - think hoop stress, but that only applies to radial loads, not side loads with small deflections.
    Whenever I've broken or damaged rims, it wasn't from bead force on the sidewall. Instead it was almost always from the rim striking the ground.

    Typically this happens when attempting to hop a sharp boulder at extremely high speed and not quite clearing it. In other instances I've landed jumps crooked, absorbing as much of the impact as possible on the bike before bailing to the side. That rolls the tires sideways as the bike slams into the ground. The first scenario results in flat spots quite frequently on my downhill rims. The second results in sidewalls being bent sideways. In both, the sidewall buckles and that likelyhood to buckle is partially dependent on lateral strength.

    But that's just with aluminum rims because I haven't put carbon hoops on the downhill bike yet. The rims are stronger but they might break instead of bend.

    For my purposes, rim/ground impact is the most critical consideration when looking at sidewall strength.

  31. #5181
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    Quote Originally Posted by YaMon View Post
    You need to go out and demo a set of carbon wheels and see what you are missing...
    Srsly.

    I felt a night and day difference between the LB Am29er rims (regular build) and the WTB SpeedDiscXC rims they replaced. BTW, I'm 210 pounds. No question about it. The bike held its line through the choppy stuff way better. Way moar point and shoot! Not to mention, dropping half a pound of rotating weight off the bike.

  32. #5182
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    I think one guy did washers. Don't think it is any better and adds weight and cost.
    I bought some nipple washers for my build. I couldn't figure out how to get them in there, unless I fed them through the valve hole and shook them around the inside the rim cavity until they arrived at the right spoke hole and then held them in place with a dental pick while I threaded a nipple through them. That would have been way too much work, so I bagged that idea.

    In the end, the wheelset has been solid for me without them. I've never even had to true them except for a little tweaking after the first couple rides. It's been like a year and a half since I got them.

    As far as weight goes, the oval aluminum washer weight was very minimal. I think it would have added like 5-10g for the whole wheel.

    Also remember that carbon reacts with aluminum nipples. Seems that the same would apply to the washers.

    Quote Originally Posted by singletrackkid View Post
    By light, I assume you mean fast/quick spin-up... I realize that I'm preaching to the choir, but your hub weight will have virtually no impact on those measures. I've built some very fast wheels using Hope SS hubs - yes they're a little bit heavier than DTs and ACs, but I they're bomber and affordable to boot

    I have a Hope Pro2SS hub on my singlespeed. Yeah, great hub, but a tad portly. Then again, I think the newer ones come with an aluminum freehub body, where my older one has a steel freehub body. The steel fixing bolts don't help much either. I keep meaning to convert mine to a quick release. My SS frame has Breezer style vertical dropouts (with an EBB), so I don't need the bolt-on style attachment.

    I got my hub second hand off Craigslist from a guy who bought the wrong one in a custom built wheel. He claims he never rode it, and judging by the wheel's condition, I believe him... and for $50 I wasn't going to be that picky about it. However, it was pretty draggy. I think it was due to this super thick grease Hope installs at the factory. Once I replaced the factory bearings with some ABEC5 grade Stainless Steel bearings off Fleabay, it freed up a bunch, but it was still draggier than my DT Swiss hubs (or Shimano cup-and-cone, for that matter. Hard to beat cup-and-cone for low drag).

    Going rate for a HopePro2 hub these days is about $260. Compare that to a DT Swiss for $450. Yeah, the DT is nicer, but IMO not $200 nicer. I would probably never pony down $450+ for a hub, but if I found a used one in good shape for the price of the Pro2SS, I would go for it.

  33. #5183
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    dfiler,

    Regarding your earlier question on sidewall thickness, and also the rock strike issue, I have been wondering that exact thing. From my number crunching:

    The new 22mm (internal) and 30mm (internal) 29er hookless rims appear to have a 2.5mm thick sidewall over their whole surface.

    The older wider 23mm (internal) 29er rims with a bead hook appear to have sidewalls that are 2.14mm thick at their thinnest, but they seem like they could be considered to be "thicker" where the hook extends inward. It is difficult to calculate how much thicker, because most of the hook is formed by simply curving the cross section inward, but part looks like it could be from actual added material. From their cross sectional drawings, it looks like mostly a curve, with very little added material, but from the actual cutaways on their website, it looks like there is some added material.

    Additional considerations are that even if there is added material in the "hook" of the older design, it could have a higher resin/lower fiber content...or not.

    Light-bicycle claims hookless is stronger not necessarily due to added material, but due to better alignment of the fiber, so there is that to take into consideration too.

    I checked Derby's dimensions on his hookless rims and they seem to be 3mm thick, but in some of the images it looks like they have a subtle taper being thinner at the outer edge and thicker at the base.

    My take on things is that, while a curved sidewall would seem to add strength from the more complex shape (like corrugated metal or an I beam) it also would provide a longer lever arm through which a dead on rock strike could cave or buckle the sidewall. That coupled with the fact that the hooked rims are .36mm thinner at mid point, suggests to me that, at least in the rock strike context, hookless would be stronger.

    Hope that helps...

  34. #5184
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    Okay so without reading 208 pages should I replace my velocity 650b blunts with these?

  35. #5185
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    I'm running Velocity Blunts on my wife's bike, and I'm waiting for Chinese new year to finish so they'll make and ship my set.

    I'm switching from Stan's so I'm excited to see the difference.

    posted from my mobile device

  36. #5186
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronJobe View Post
    Okay so without reading 208 pages should I replace my velocity 650b blunts with these?
    You mean upgrade to a 29er with LB Carbon rims? Yeah, totally!!

  37. #5187
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronJobe View Post
    Okay so without reading 208 pages should I replace my velocity 650b blunts with these?



    Absolutely, 6 fiddy is an evolutionary dead end.

  38. #5188
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    Valve stems, xc rims, tubeless with gorilla tape, which ones?

  39. #5189
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    Just had a set of LB wide (35mm outer) built up. Here are some random thoughts. First of all the Ardent 2.4 and Ikon 2.35 look ridiculously large. I had to let all the air out of the Ikon just to get the wheel on my bike with the adjustable chainstay in the shortest position. Moved it back about a quarter of an inch just in case of mud.

    I was able to inflate both tires with No Stans immediately with a cheap air compressor. When I let all the air out to put stans in, the tires did not "fall of the rims" as some have predicted would happen with hookless rims.

    Feeling a little under the weather and resting up for a weeks riding so didn't test them too much. Experimented with tire pressure and settled in on 16 front and 18 year as a minimum. I arrived at this by landing a bit sideways on a little of camber bit. I didn't burp, but it felt squirrely. I'm 160# and wasn't wearing a camelback.

    The Ardent 2.4 was a beotch to mount up. Blamming the tire and not the rim because the Ikon went right on. I actually gave up for the night and dreamt up some interesting solution to the problem during my sleep. Woke up the next morning and just put the tire right on like usual in like 3 seconds. Weird.

    (Cheap) Chinese Carbon Rims?-photo-2-.jpg

  40. #5190
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    Sweet ride. Reminds me of the Merlin Newsboy?

    Weighed up the xc rims, (on xtr hubs), including gorilla tape 1522 grams. Supposedly it's 18g per wheel for gorilla tape, so I'm under 1500 grams for the set.

    Not to shabby considering M980 hubs are nowhere near light compared to DT and a few others in the same price range.

  41. #5191
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    Do the LB rims spoke holes come out straight out or alternating asym?

  42. #5192
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    Do LB rim spoke hole come straight out? or alternating angled?

  43. #5193
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    Straight

  44. #5194
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    Quote Originally Posted by locominute View Post
    Do the LB rims spoke holes come out straight out or alternating asym?
    straight
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  45. #5195
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    I'm contemplating a set of these hoops to replace my stock rims on my Scott (which came with dt 350 hubs front and back) so I think it would end up being a reasonably light and string wheelset if I used dt performance spokes. At 210 lbs I have to worry about strong

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

  46. #5196
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoNin9r View Post
    I'm contemplating a set of these hoops to replace my stock rims on my Scott (which came with dt 350 hubs front and back) so I think it would end up being a reasonably light and string wheelset if I used dt performance spokes. At 210 lbs I have to worry about strong

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
    210 isn't that heavy, unless you ride serious chop with no finesse. I'm 210 and these rims are holding up really well. No truing needed since the first couple of break-in/settle-in rides, and even that was minimal tweaking.

    I say just use regular DT Swiss double butted spokes and brass nipples. They're way strong.

  47. #5197
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    My wheels came in last week. LB AM 30mm wheel set with Hope Pro 2's, total weight is 1559g. 723g for the front and 836g rear. Just need to put the bike together now.


    Very well package.


    Yes, they're round!


    XX1-XD Drive.


    At the scales.

    "By Your Command"

  48. #5198
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    pucked up,
    I just ordered the same wheel set.
    How long did it take from ordering till delivery?
    thanks

  49. #5199
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    Client, took about 6-7 weeks for me to receive my order. LB had a delay receiving the XD hubs, then there was Chinese New Year. Hopefully yours will only take half the time as their holiday is now over.
    "By Your Command"

  50. #5200
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    Oct 2007
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    342
    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    My wheels came in last week. LB AM 30mm wheel set with Hope Pro 2's, total weight is 1559g. 723g for the front and 836g rear. Just need to put the bike together now.
    Nice wheelset, what spokes did you end up going with?

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