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  1. #1
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    Chainring Bolt Question

    I didn't really think about this. Almost all of my gear for my 1x10 conversion has arrived, except the chainring.

    I was was wondering if I needed a specific style of chainring bolt for it. I'll be removing all three chainrings from a brand new Deore XT 3 Chaingring Crankset, and replacing the middle ring with a 34T Raceface Narrow Wide Chainring.

    From the little I know about chainrings, am I to understand they the two pieces are threaded into each other, and can accommodate varying widths of chainring? Or do they "bottom out" at the width they are "supposed" to be at.

    Any informed answer would be great, personal experience with this crank and chainring together would be ideal...

    DO IT UP!!!

  2. #2
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    You will to get different (shorter) chainring bolts. The ones you have are made to hold 2 chainrings with the spider between them and will bottom out with just one ring before it is tight. You could also use spacers (chainring width) as an alternative.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    You will to get different (shorter) chainring bolts. The ones you have are made to hold 2 chainrings with the spider between them and will bottom out with just one ring before it is tight. You could also use spacers (chainring width) as an alternative.
    Thanks dude, I thought I might have been missing something.

  4. #4
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    Don't use alloy bolts for a single ring setup. If one breaks and turns your chainring into a taco, you won't have any other option to get you home.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Don't use alloy bolts for a single ring setup. If one breaks and turns your chainring into a taco, you won't have any other option to get you home.

    Why would alloy be OK for a double but not single ring? Broken alloy chainring bolts are not a particularly common failure that I've seen working on bikes and I've never had one break on any of my own bikes, most of which have used alloy bolts. Steel is fine too though, and less prone to stripping due to ill fitting wrenches and seizing due to lack of grease or anti-seize during installation.

  6. #6
    West Chester, PA
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    Did you read what I said ? If you only have one ring and it breaks, you're walking. It's happened to me. Saw it happen to a friend with his SS another time. If you have a big ring it can usually get you home on 3 bolts if you're careful.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by KyamBoi View Post
    I didn't really think about this. Almost all of my gear for my 1x10 conversion has arrived, except the chainring.

    I was was wondering if I needed a specific style of chainring bolt for it. I'll be removing all three chainrings from a brand new Deore XT 3 Chaingring Crankset, and replacing the middle ring with a 34T Raceface Narrow Wide Chainring.

    From the little I know about chainrings, am I to understand they the two pieces are threaded into each other, and can accommodate varying widths of chainring? Or do they "bottom out" at the width they are "supposed" to be at.

    Any informed answer would be great, personal experience with this crank and chainring together would be ideal...

    DO IT UP!!!
    Yep... BMX or Singlespeed chainring bolts will do the trick. Your LBS will have them. Or, use a bash guard in place of your big ring, and use your existing CRBs.

    And yeah... alloy CRBs are fine as long as you install them with the right amount of torque. Use a torque wrench on alloy CRBs, don't just guess. I also use a dab of Blue Loctite so they don't work loose, and I check them from time to time to be sure they aren't working loose. They don't need to be gorilla tight, but tight enough not to allow any movement between the parts under that much strain. The only reason a CRB is going to fail in middle/big ring position is if they were installed improperly, or they worked loose because the owner neglected them and didn't check them once in a while, or they were overtightened during installation and stripped.

    The only place I would suggest not using alloy CRBs is on a granny ring. You can apply a crapload of torque at that diameter of bolts. I sheared off a set once right at the bottom of Hurl Hill when riding the Sea Otter course, and I had to grunt up that in middle ring. My granny ring was going 'tinka tinka tinka' as it rattled around my bottom bracket. It totally smoked my legs for the rest of the ride.

  8. #8
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    It's not worth the weight savings to use alloy chainring bolts. I've snapped a few on my single speed but have never broken any steel bolts.

  9. #9
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    Yeah, I went ahead and ordered a set of green steel chainring bolts today at my LBS. Thanks a lot for all the help guys! I'm trying to save as much weight as possible without sacrificing performance or durability so I appreciate the elaborate responses.

  10. #10
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    I shorten aluminum chainring bolts (the nut, actually) with a grinder and a file, if I need some and haven't got any short ones. Never had them fail, don't use a torque wrench, and I pull the chainring off my singlespeed bikes for cleaning fairly regularly. I'm sure it's better to use a tq wrench and loctite, but it hasn't been necessary for me.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnypecans View Post
    I shorten aluminum chainring bolts (the nut, actually) with a grinder and a file, if I need some and haven't got any short ones. Never had them fail, don't use a torque wrench, and I pull the chainring off my singlespeed bikes for cleaning fairly regularly. I'm sure it's better to use a tq wrench and loctite, but it hasn't been necessary for me.
    I think maybe you just like working on your bike. Why shorten chainring bolts/nuts when you can buy them the correct length? And why remove your chainring to clean it? That's a weird idea to me. I never clean my drivetrain on my single speed. I lube the chain every other ride, remove chain slack once every few months as needed, and replace the chainring when it gets worn.

  12. #12
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    Why spend money and take time driving to a bike shop (all of which which in my area suck) when I can shorten four nuts in fifteen minutes? Mine are the right length much quicker than it takes to buy them. I remove my chainring to be certain I've got all the grime off it and the spider arms. I lube my chain every forty miles or so, because the sand on my trails makes it crunchy quickly... I'm sure you know me and my riding conditions better than I do, though.

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