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  1. #1
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    Chain/Cassette Replacement/Upgrade?

    Hi Guys

    2011 Stumpy 29'er HT. LBS says chain and rear gears are worn and should be replaced as a set. Good time to upgrade or just get what was on there?

    Specialized Bicycle Components


    thx

    bob

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelgtr View Post
    Hi Guys

    2011 Stumpy 29'er HT. LBS says chain and rear gears are worn and should be replaced as a set. Good time to upgrade or just get what was on there?

    Specialized Bicycle Components


    thx

    bob
    I think I would replace them with the same set. My bike shop recommends replacing the chain every year. I dunno, but I guess I'm a little shocked that cassette and chain rings are shot after 2 years?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ebig View Post
    I think I would replace them with the same set. My bike shop recommends replacing the chain every year. I dunno, but I guess I'm a little shocked that cassette and chain rings are shot after 2 years?
    What does time have to do with anything, one person could ride 200 miles in two years and another several thousand. Combine that with maintenance or lack of and too many variables.

    OP I would take the time to upgrade to an XT cassette and chain.
    If the cassette is worn, I'd be supprised if the rings weren't.
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  4. #4
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    The Bike has 2-3000 miles on it, I lube the chain before every ride.

    bob

  5. #5
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    Two trains of thought on drivetrain: Either replace your chain 3-4 times a year and change cassette and chainrings at 3-4 years OR run the piss out of it all and replace it all together after 2 seasons. Both methods assume proper lube and maintenance and 1000+ miles a year. If you try changing any one component at your mileage, I guarantee you will have severe shifting/skipping/impaled privates issues. If you can actually measure chain stretch with Park tool, it's too late and you will have issues changing one part of the system.

  6. #6
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    You have the SLX. I shop around and find the XT on sale, I got two at $50ea. I'd go XT, I see it at about 57.
    The X10 KMC chain is fine or get a Shimano if you see a better price. It can take a KMC link.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    You have the SLX. I shop around and find the XT on sale, I got two at $50ea. I'd go XT, I see it at about 57.
    The X10 KMC chain is fine or get a Shimano if you see a better price. It can take a KMC link.
    Thanks, eb
    Where did you see those prices? I don't know much about components. Will any 10 speed cassette work? Any 10 speed chain?

    Thanks

    bob

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bicyclebillpdx View Post
    Two trains of thought on drivetrain: Either replace your chain 3-4 times a year and change cassette and chainrings at 3-4 years OR run the piss out of it all and replace it all together after 2 seasons. Both methods assume proper lube and maintenance and 1000+ miles a year. If you try changing any one component at your mileage, I guarantee you will have severe shifting/skipping/impaled privates issues. If you can actually measure chain stretch with Park tool, it's too late and you will have issues changing one part of the system.
    So, changing the chain frequently extends the life of the other components?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelgtr View Post
    So, changing the chain frequently extends the life of the other components?
    Of course. I change mine when the Park tool says so.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
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  10. #10
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    One can also measure chain wear with any good tape measure or ruler. A tradesman's tape measure is good enough. I'm typing with my thumbs right now, so I'll leave Googling it as an exercise to the reader.

    I probably get 2-3 chains' wear from a cassette. 2-3 cassettes' wear from a middle chain ring. I take longer to wear out the granny and large rings. However, letting a chain wear out too far causes accelerated wear of the rings and cassette.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelgtr View Post
    So, changing the chain frequently extends the life of the other components?


    Yes it does. I ride approx 700 miles a year on my mountain bike (2 jobs get in the way of more riding). But here is what I do.

    I use the ruler method to measure chain wear. When my chain reaches 12 1/16" of length on a ruler, I replace the chain. On my 9 speed setup, it was between 600 & 700 miles per chain. When I switched to 10 sp this year, I was on my 4th chain with one cassette and one set of chain rings.

    Still using the same chain rings on my 10 speed setup (2x crank up front).

    So I figured $40-45 per chain per year, vs $100+ (chain & cassette, maybe rings) every 2 years, I have actually saved lots of money.

  12. #12
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    Thanks, Guys

    Do I need a 10 speed chain tool (Park) or are they universal?

    bob

  13. #13
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    Pretty much universal. If you get the Park Tool chain tool, it will be fine for 8, 9, 10 speed chains. Probably even on the 11 speed stuff as well - except for Campagnolo road chains.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bicyclebillpdx View Post
    Two trains of thought on drivetrain: Either replace your chain 3-4 times a year and change cassette and chainrings at 3-4 years OR run the piss out of it all and replace it all together after 2 seasons. Both methods assume proper lube and maintenance and 1000+ miles a year. If you try changing any one component at your mileage, I guarantee you will have severe shifting/skipping/impaled privates issues. If you can actually measure chain stretch with Park tool, it's too late and you will have issues changing one part of the system.
    I'm definitely more of the chain replacer sort (when Park CC-2 or Shimano CN-41 indicate).

    I find that what to replace when slipping occurs (either with a new chain installed or not) and other drive train skippy/slippy issues crop up depends.

    The other day, I replaced a cassette (XTR that had ~3,000 miles on it with an XT) and chain only, because the Blackspire 3x9 rings I am running on my FS bike are still in reasonably good shape. I've also replaced worn rings and a chain and left the cassette on. If I am working on a bike for someone else then all three get replaced.

  15. #15
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    I got a message from the LBS. Now the (new) mechanic says he put on a new chain only and it should be fine. No chain suck?? I think he said. I wish he would have called first to give me choices. I think they use SRAM as their stock replacement. Is that OK or should I upgrade? I had the KMC from the factory.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelgtr View Post
    I got a message from the LBS. Now the (new) mechanic says he put on a new chain only and it should be fine. No chain suck?? I think he said. I wish he would have called first to give me choices. I think they use SRAM as their stock replacement. Is that OK or should I upgrade? I had the KMC from the factory.
    SRAM is fine... be thankful that the LBS was honest and didn't have you spend more $$$ on additional components.

  17. #17
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    I called today and he put on a Shimano XT. Upgrade from the KMC stock?

  18. #18
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    If you want to upgrade right now it the time to do it. If your dont want to upgrade replace the cassete with the same one. You dont need to upgrade, but if you wanna, then there wont be a better time then when replacing a worn or broken part.

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    Just the chain, actually. From a X10 KMC to a Shimano XT. Is the Shimano better than what came on the bike?

  20. #20
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    It's probably more expensive. Bicycle chains are wear parts and are disposable. I wouldn't worry about "better." Can you take a chain off yourself? I like to have a spare power link with me when I ride my bike. So you might pick one up, or ask if yours will fit, when you pick up your bike.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    It's probably more expensive. Bicycle chains are wear parts and are disposable. I wouldn't worry about "better." Can you take a chain off yourself? I like to have a spare power link with me when I ride my bike. So you might pick one up, or ask if yours will fit, when you pick up your bike.
    I've never done a chain myself. I'm hoping the kept the masterlink from myKMC and put it on the Shimano? Is that the plan?

  22. #22
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    Master links wear at the same rate as the rest of the chain. The mechanic probably threw it out. Certainly I would.

    If you break your chain while riding, you'll probably need to remove a damaged link or two. I find the chain tool that's part of my multi tool to be sufficient. Then you need to reconnect what you have left. I've always had trouble with the special pins that Shimano chains have, so I prefer to take a power link or similar with me.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  23. #23
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    But, isn't there a difference in the way Shimano does it vs, KMC?

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