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  1. #1
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    Carbon crank & wheelset

    Hi, I recently bought the 2014 Giant XTC Composite 29er 1...I'm not sure of the current weight of the bike now but its really light and not sure of the current weight of the stock crank set currently on and wheel set, but I love the bike its very fast, smooth, and light...i have also made a few upgrades so far: carbon slx handlebars, smaller lighter cassette, carbon giant stem, wtb pure v team saddle, and a shimano shadow plus XT short cage derailleur. I weigh about 260 lbs and want to get some light, strong, and good carbon cranks and carbon wheel set that can take my weight and also be light without me breaking the bank...can you guys recommend me some cranks and wheel sets?

    Here is a pic of the same bike I have but this one is not mine...I will take pics of my bike today and post up some pics tomorrow.


  2. #2
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    At your weight I wouldn't worry too much about light weight parts and more about durability. Especially on a mountain bike. Light, Cheap, Durable, pick two. If money is not a problem then go with durable and expensive. Even the Roval Control carbon wheels are rated for 240 pounds. Stans Flow EX are suggested for a max of 250 pounds. ENVE does not have a weight limit, but they are also far from cheap.

    I am not trying to tell you to stay away from Carbon as it is an awesome material for both strength and weight. I am just saying it should not be your major priority as well as lightweight should not be your major priority.

    Cranks are a great place to save weight and I have not seen or heard of any failures at the crank-arms from clydes. However, I don't know if you are going to see any difference in lightweight carbon cranks over aluminum cranks. I am assuming that you put down a LOT more watts than most people. Especially if you do any climbing standing. Because of this I think the most stiff/rigid crank would be beneficial over lightweight as the crank weight will be a very small factor for you.

  3. #3
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    thanks for the input tooclose, I'm really looking into that Roval Control 29 Carbon wheelset from specialized...I see that it has a weight limit of 240 lbs...would a be a bad idea to get those being at 260 lbs?

    Also, is there a stiff/rigid carbon crankset that you can recommend?

  4. #4
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    I know very little about crank stiffness and I feel that it is of little consequence unless you are putting down some major watts. I just went with an XX1 crank to go to a 1x setup and it was the cheapest/lightest for carbon.

    As far as the weight limit. I bought Roval Control SL's and something that pushed me over the edge of getting those over building a set of light bike carbon rims was the lifetime warranty and a large brand reputation to fall back on if something were to happen to them or to them/me (injury) due to a product failure. I don't know what your shop would do if you came in with a tacoed wheel and claimed you were JRA. They may just say "well you are over the specification of the wheel, so we won't warranty it". I don't know what they will say and every shop is different, but that would be something I would want clarified before I purchased them if I was out of the specification and there is a warranty involved.

  5. #5
    AZ
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    Giant has some pretty interesting wheels that you may be interested in.

    P-XCR Composite 29er 0 WheelSystem (WheelSystems) - Bike Gear | Giant Bicycles | United States

  6. #6
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    those giant wheels are nice but too expensive they are $2,100 for the wheelset compared to $1200 for the Roval Control 29 Carbon wheelset.

  7. #7
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    Ahhhhh, haha that makes more sense. I saw those and was like.......1,100 for a carbon wheelset that weighs 1430 grams, how is that possible? I did not understand that it was $1000 for the front and $1100 for the rear.

  8. #8
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    here are some updated pics of my bike.




























  9. #9
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    Looks nice. Words of advice though. Remove the dork disc and engage the clutch on your RD (it looks to me like it is not "on". The new shimano RD's work so nice with the clutch engaged. The reason to allow it to disengage is when you want to work on stuff or remove the rear wheel.

  10. #10
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    tooclosetosee can you show me exactly what your talking about and how to do it, since these mods were put on by my lbs? Thanks!

  11. #11
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    Word to the wise. I removed the "dork disc" and a couple of rides later broke my derailleur on some rocky terrain. Part of it ended in the wheel and I had 4 bent spokes right where the disc sat (close to the hub). Had I left it, I might not had to replace those spokes and true the wheel ! It certainly looks dorky though. Aesthetics vs functionality....Your choice.

  12. #12
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    Haha, they did not put those there and it is how your bike came stock.

    Dork Disc http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3171/...893e77a347.jpg
    The plastic pie plate thing that keeps your RD cage from hitting your spokes. If you have a properly set up RD you should never have this issue of cage into the spokes. It just adds weight to the rear wheel and screams newb.

    Shimano RD clutch Trail Tech: How To Adjust The Clutch Tension In Your Shimano Shadow Plus Rear Derailleur - BikeRadar
    It adds tension to your RD cage so that when you are going over rocky terrain that your chain stays taut and isn't bouncing around all over the place which can cause the chain to bounce off of rings and also causes noise and all sorts of annoying things. When changing the rear wheel you will want to turn the clutch off so that the wheel is easier to remove.

  13. #13
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    You need STRONG, not light...yet. Deal with the bike's bulk, until you become a stronger and eventually lighter rider. Then, reward your efforts with a lighter bike - the performance difference will be much profound.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    You need STRONG, not light...yet. Deal with the bike's bulk, until you become a stronger and eventually lighter rider. Then, reward your efforts with a lighter bike - the performance difference will be much profound.
    Makes total sense, but I just wanted something light right out the gate. A bit more costly, but I learn quick.

    tooclose, I think if you hit a rock at just the right angle, it's not going to matter how well you set up your RD !! It's going where it needs to go.

  15. #15
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    When I bought the carbon rovals I weighed 325, I now weight 250lbs. Absolutely zero problems so far.

    I have tweaked every set of wheels I've owned, except these. I am very happy with them.

  16. #16
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    I'd put money into a bike fit before I'd sink more money into the bike itself.

    Because the bike setup, as is, looks very awkward.

    That, and you'll ride faster, longer, and with more enjoyment if the bike fits you properly.

  17. #17
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    If you have the Deore XT crankset that is spec'd on the bike, that is plenty stiff/light enough IMO. You really won't be any faster with something lighter.

    Those wheels are a different story. The same wheels came stock on my 2013 Anthem 29er. They are on the heavy side at ~2160g but they seem to be relatively stout. I think I could knock about a pound off of that for a few hundred bucks, so I'm looking at some of the lighter Giant wheels as well as DT Swiss or AC with 24-28mm rims.

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    I am the exact same weight. I just bought a new rig, and had the shop change the wheelset even before picking it up. I went with FlowEX, prefect for a clyde. Buying carbon at this point would be like putting lipstick on a pig! Concentrate on bettering your overall riding ability, save your money - buy Flow's. Use what you save and get some local riders to go out with you to teach you things, then buy them some good IPA's and pizza ;-)

  19. #19
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    Probably said already, but XT cranks are pretty dang light. The high dollar uberlight carbon cranks are probably going to shave 50-75 grams tops, and you'll blow $500+ dollars to do it.

    But yeah, I say forget about weight savings. Don't worry.... if you ride regularly, you'll wear stuff out and then take that opportunity to get lighter stuff if you want, but the lighter stuff will wear out even faster.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Probably said already, but XT cranks are pretty dang light. The high dollar uberlight carbon cranks are probably going to shave 50-75 grams tops, and you'll blow $500+ dollars to do it.

    But yeah, I say forget about weight savings. Don't worry.... if you ride regularly, you'll wear stuff out and then take that opportunity to get lighter stuff if you want, but the lighter stuff will wear out even faster.

    ... not to mention, carbon cranks tend to be pretty dang flexy. You're better off with XTs, IMHO.

  21. #21
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    The XTs are heavier than carbon cranks but there's other spots to shave weight that will also give you a more enjoyable, improved ride.

    Some bulletproof, weight defying upgrade ideas:

    * XTR Trail Brakes
    * Go 1x10 with a Wolftooth 32 tooth front ring and a 36 tooth cassette. Losing the front derailleur, low/high rings, shifter and cable will save you quite a bit of weight and be less cluttered!
    * A lightly used Carbon Lefty fork and sell your lightly used Fox. Would only cost a few hundred once all said and done. Don't be scared of the Lefty! They're cake to work on and MendonCycle is a trustworthy Lefty guru.
    * I say go with the Rovals. After a few months of riding you should weigh less than 240lbs As long as your LBS will honor the lifetime warranty at your current weight, should be no issues whatsoever.
    * When those pedals give up the ghost, get some Canfield Crampon Ultimates.
    * Swap the neoprene chainstay protector for a vinyl tape, clear stick on protector
    * ESI Chunky grips

    Some of the stuff I mentioned won't save you a ton of grams but every gram counts if your going weight weenie 1x10, Rovals and the Lefty would save over 3 pounds and your bike would FLY!!!

    And flip your front skewer lever around unless you want your front wheel being removed by a bush...

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