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  1. #1
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    Biggest Drop/Jump on a set of Crests?

    So, what's the biggest drop/jump you think a 150 pound rider with ten pounds of riding gear should do on a set of Crests?

  2. #2
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    Obviously, there's a ton of variables at play here, but I'll go out on a limb and say if it's on a hardtail, maybe 2.5 to 3 feet. On a full-squish, maybe a little more.
    I have a set of Crests on my hardtail that have been rock-solid over many, many miles, and some small (up to 2.5 ft.) drops.

  3. #3
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    Long Travel 29r...

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    Re: Biggest Drop/Jump on a set of Crests?

    I'm the same size and I can't keep my 29" Arch EX's straight on smallish trail jumps. I wouldn't plan on great durability if you whip the bike at all. My 26" Crests were much easier to keep true. Staying round is one thing, staying straight another. On a long travel 29er I wouldn't run less than Flows or I would have to ***** foot around to keep them straight.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

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    Yikes. Thanks for the tip. I have a truing stand so I don't mind having to true them up once in a while so I may try the Arch EX's, but my main fear is a dreaded taco.

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    Biggest Drop/Jump on a set of Crests?

    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdan View Post
    So, what's the biggest drop/jump you think a 150 pound rider with ten pounds of riding gear should do on a set of Crests?
    10 feet, plus or minus 10 feet.

    Yes, too many variables.
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  7. #7
    North Van/Whistler
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    Depends on whether or not you're a hack. Are you a hack?
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    He's not a hack. Send it Dan!
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  9. #9
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    test it to failure, then you'll know
    I may or may not be laughing at you.

  10. #10
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    [JK]...20 Pinkbike feet to flat...[/JK]

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdan View Post
    So, what's the biggest drop/jump you think a 150 pound rider with ten pounds of riding gear should do on a set of Crests?
    30 feet to transition....

    ... if you are a super smooth rider, and there is a super smooth transition... and you are crazy lucky.

    Come on, way too many variables. No way to calculate this. We generally choose rims by our best guess, and when/if we bend them, we get beefier rims.

    Heck, I know a guy who bends freeride grade rims on XC trails with less than 6" drops just because he rides with so much slop and lack of grace, and I know 200 pound guys riding flyweight rims down trails with 2' drops and plows through rock gardens, and never bend rims.

  12. #12
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    You can easily do drops of 10-100ft on Crest's without hurting them. It's the landing that hurts them.

  13. #13
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    Yea, I agree with pimpbot. I think it has more to do with the rider than weight/rim up to a certain point. Some people ride like a gorilla and break rims, some people ride smooth and don't. The best you can do is know your own history and if you don't have a history then make a history or just try something over the generalizations and see how it works out for you. The stans website already generalizes what rim to use for different weights and what type of riding it is used for.

    Another thing....If you have to ask what the largest drops you can take with Crests, then they probably aren't for you.

  14. #14
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    Just a thought, since you mentioned trying out the Arch EX rims - get the "cheep chinese carbon rims" instead. They are about the same weight as the crests, but a heck of a lot stronger/stiffer. I replaced my Arch EX rims with the chinese carbon rims and I could feel the added rigidity in rock gardens and corners. Much better control. If you land hard on a sharp rock you may shatter the carbon rims, but a whole lot less would destroy the Crest rims first as well.

  15. #15
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    I definitely see the "too many variables" portion of the argument, but still got some good info on the thread.
    albertdc, I agree that carbon fiber is the way to go with rims, and I have a set for racing and other days I just want to ride fast. They are so superior to the stock wheels (WTB i23 laced to DT Swiss 350) that I don't think I'll ever ride them again, hence the considering the lightweight Crests. More than just speed and stiffness, taking two pounds off of the wheels as going to carbon has for me, has made this long travel 29er very flickable.

  16. #16
    ballbuster
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    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    Just a thought, since you mentioned trying out the Arch EX rims - get the "cheep chinese carbon rims" instead. They are about the same weight as the crests, but a heck of a lot stronger/stiffer. I replaced my Arch EX rims with the chinese carbon rims and I could feel the added rigidity in rock gardens and corners. Much better control. If you land hard on a sharp rock you may shatter the carbon rims, but a whole lot less would destroy the Crest rims first as well.
    I second that, if they are in your budget. I got a set of the Light Bicycle AM 29er rims, and they are crazy awesome. Wide tire footprint, tough, crazy light, stiff, and affordable (compared to other carbon rims). IIRC, the going rate is like $360 landed in the US for a pair of these rims.

    I'm about to order a second set.

  17. #17
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    I have a set of crests that have been as high as 40,000 feet & didn't get damaged on landing :-)

    I think if you are asking this question then the Crests are not the rims for you.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdan View Post
    They are so superior to the stock wheels (WTB i23 laced to DT Swiss 350.
    They can't be that bad of a wheelset. The i23s get good reviews and 350s seem nice.

    I've got flows on Hopes on a bike that hardly sees any airtime and they don't feel all that sluggish.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by intheways View Post
    They can't be that bad of a wheelset. The i23s get good reviews and 350s seem nice.

    I've got flows on Hopes on a bike that hardly sees any airtime and they don't feel all that sluggish.
    Maybe it's the heavy spokes, but those wheels are a good 1.5 pounds heavier than my carbon ones. I think if I can't get my trail wheels within a half pound of my race wheels that I probably will just always ride my race wheels more for flickability than speed. And that's fine, I can just ride the race wheels. What I would lose in stiffness to gain a weight advantage with aluminum rims would make dislike them for that reason. I'll just need to find a more durable rear tire than a Racing Ralph so that I'm not going through rear tires every two months.

  20. #20
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    Maybe I should check out some carbon rims. 8)
    "Paved roads...just another example of needless government spending"—paraphrased from rhino_adv

  21. #21
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    can carbon wheels be use for recreational riding? 2-4 times a week huckling around. How will carbon wheels hold up?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbigfot111 View Post
    can carbon wheels be use for recreational riding? 2-4 times a week huckling around. How will carbon wheels hold up?
    YES!

    I have LightBicycle AM rims with Sapim CXRay spokes and DT 240s hubs. They're on a 29lb Banshee Prime with dropper post and Fox 34. I beat the $h!t out of the bike! Jumps, drops, smack trees... I'm not a hack but I treat the bike like the AM machine that it is and the wheels have been maintenance free for almost 2000 miles! I weigh about 190lbs geared and ready for an epic The rims are LITERALLY the exception to the "Light, Strong, Cheap...pick two" rule. They're all three!

    OP... Don't get Crests. I had them for a season and I was so paranoid of mucking them up I literally stunted my riding and rode like a wiener! If you don't have complete confidence in your equipment, you won't have complete confidence, or fun, on your ride. I STRONGLY recommend getting a set of the LightBicycle AM carbon rims and the Bontrager Rhythm 29 rim strips. BOMBER and LIGHT! A little bit more money up front will save money and time in the long run. They're a solid investment.

  23. #23
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    I have pretty much found the same thing.

    I was quite a bit slower on my crests, Because I didn't trust them.

    I love the carbon rims.

    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX View Post
    YES!

    I have LightBicycle AM rims with Sapim CXRay spokes and DT 240s hubs. They're on a 29lb Banshee Prime with dropper post and Fox 34. I beat the $h!t out of the bike! Jumps, drops, smack trees... I'm not a hack but I treat the bike like the AM machine that it is and the wheels have been maintenance free for almost 2000 miles! I weigh about 190lbs geared and ready for an epic The rims are LITERALLY the exception to the "Light, Strong, Cheap...pick two" rule. They're all three!

    OP... Don't get Crests. I had them for a season and I was so paranoid of mucking them up I literally stunted my riding and rode like a wiener! If you don't have complete confidence in your equipment, you won't have complete confidence, or fun, on your ride. I STRONGLY recommend getting a set of the LightBicycle AM carbon rims and the Bontrager Rhythm 29 rim strips. BOMBER and LIGHT! A little bit more money up front will save money and time in the long run. They're a solid investment.

  24. #24
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    My experience was a little different. I have a set of Arches and Crest wheels built up with same hubs and spokes. I am 180 and do similar trail type jumps. I also go to the mountains (Pisgah, NC) on occasion. The Crests survived Pisgah, but needed to be trued. I sold them. The Arches survived Pisgah many times now, and in 2 years I haven't touched them at all!

    Quote Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler View Post
    I'm the same size and I can't keep my 29" Arch EX's straight on smallish trail jumps. I wouldn't plan on great durability if you whip the bike at all. My 26" Crests were much easier to keep true. Staying round is one thing, staying straight another. On a long travel 29er I wouldn't run less than Flows or I would have to ***** foot around to keep them straight.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdan View Post
    Maybe it's the heavy spokes, but those wheels are a good 1.5 pounds heavier than my carbon ones. I think if I can't get my trail wheels within a half pound of my race wheels that I probably will just always ride my race wheels more for flickability than speed. And that's fine, I can just ride the race wheels. What I would lose in stiffness to gain a weight advantage with aluminum rims would make dislike them for that reason. I'll just need to find a more durable rear tire than a Racing Ralph so that I'm not going through rear tires every two months.
    In the interest of clarity, I am wondering, are you actually weighing these wheels?

    Even losing a pound and a half (not to mention the two pounds mentioned in the first post) seems unlikely just because of rims and spokes. The LB (narrow) carbon 29" rims weigh 370g, and the i23 (which is also 2mm wider (inner width) weighs 523g, a difference of 153g per rim or 306g per wheelset. That is 2/3 of one pound. That still leaves another 375g (+/-) to save with the spokes?

    You didn't mention if you used different hubs, but even if you went from the DT 350 to their lightest hubs (the very light and expensive DT 180) you would save maybe 150g (you didn't specify what hubs you're using on the carbon wheels), which still leaves 225g to save from the spokes?

    Not saying it's impossible to lose that much weight from a wheelset, just that the math isn't adding up in this equation given the (albeit incomplete) list of parts that are mentioned so far. I'd be interested to know what the rest of the parts mentioned are. Not to bust your eggs here on the forum, but just to know what (and where) it is you're actually losing in wheel weight since you feel it makes a significant difference in the performance of your bike.

    Regards,
    Jeff

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