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  1. #4001
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    No.
    PG is a stabilizer and also acts as antifreeze.
    Ammonia prevents the latex polymerization, by keeping the pH around 8.
    And if you use CO2 cartridges to fill or top off your tubeless setup, it will drop the pH, and your latex will polymerize into stanimals and ammonia water, which then proceeds to weep out your sidewalls.

    On my last batch of WSS, I used some cornmeal, but added finely chopped maribou feathers (close to down feathers in consistency, but straighter and less prone to clumping) as a filler media. Seems to be working well.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  2. #4002
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    Hello
    I have been here for some time and shall be reports for my brew also, that have from here . The liquid will be stay for 1-2 month , then need to top up.

    1.0 Latex = 200 ml (i have more in Thailand from tree !!!)
    2.0 PG = 200 ml
    3.0 Water = 150 ml
    4.0 Ammonia = 10ml.

    During mix up
    1.0 Latex + water + Ammonia >> Shake Shake Shake
    2.0 Fill with PG = 100 then >> Shake
    3.0 Fill with PG = 100 then >> Shake

    During shake it will produce WARM liquid,

    and you can see the results during test / For

    https://youtu.be/0A4boPIxVBQ

    https://youtu.be/M--Mx5hONe8


    FOR MTB tires

    Can be use with WIRE trie
    NO tubeless tire
    Tubeless tire >> now i remove it out , and use only WIRE and FOLD.

  3. #4003
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    Huh?

  4. #4004
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    Anyone ever have their tubeless brew mold?

    https://imgur.com/a/dABCV

  5. #4005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renovatio View Post
    Anyone ever have their tubeless brew mold?

    https://imgur.com/a/dABCV
    Couple posts back someone reported something similar.

  6. #4006
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    for those using the recipe with Cornmeal. is it best to use the finely ground or the courser grind? opinions. thanks.

  7. #4007
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonaSS View Post
    May be a slight thread drift, and totally respect the work you all do to make your own. But if you are in a pinch, OR - like me, just don't have the time or number of bikes to get into DIY, what is the groups thought on the BEST OFF THE SHELF sealant?
    Orange Seal Endurance

    No boogers so far and lasting a solid year.

  8. #4008
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainclimb View Post
    for those using the recipe with Cornmeal. is it best to use the finely ground or the courser grind? opinions. thanks.
    I can attempt to indirectly answer this. I use finely grounded rice powder and it is serving its purpose very well.

  9. #4009
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    so sounds like it is best to go with the finely ground whether is cornmeal or rice? any other opinions or try outs?

  10. #4010
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    Bigger particle size will plug bigger holes but is hader to get thru the valve stem when you are adding fluid. I ruin my cornmeal thru 2 strainers, one to get rid of the powder and one to get rid of the real big chunks that can clog the vavle stem.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  11. #4011
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    When you use a strainer on cornmeal to get out 'powder' doesn't the powder go through the strainer? Wouldn't whatever is left in the strainer be the "big chunks"? Do you strain it dry? or do you add water and put it through the strainer? TIA.

  12. #4012
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    I use 2 strainers and the stuff that falls through the small holed stainer I discard. The stuff left in the big hole strainer I discard. The middle size is what goes in the mix. Although lately, I have been experimenting with mix with no particles.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  13. #4013
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    Hello Guys,

    I'm very interested in mixing up my own sealant, cause I now change all my bikes up to tubeless. Until now I just used Stans cause we 've this in our shop and I doesn't have experience with other mixtures yet.

    But I also work with epoxy and glass fibre so I got an idea:
    Did anyone of you tried "microballoons" as a filler yet?
    I'm not sure because I not read the whole thread..

    Here you can see what I mean:
    Microballoons for Epoxy Resin, Filler| HP-Textiles


    //EDIT:
    There are also other grades:
    5 Liter Microballons, Microballoons, Glashohlkugeln ab 1,20 /Liter je nach Korn | eBay

    Maybe this is a good alternative for glitter?

    Would be nice to hear your opinion about that.

    Br
    H.

  14. #4014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tech5 View Post
    Hello Guys,

    I'm very interested in mixing up my own sealant, cause I now change all my bikes up to tubeless. Until now I just used Stans cause we 've this in our shop and I doesn't have experience with other mixtures yet.

    But I also work with epoxy and glass fibre so I got an idea:
    Did anyone of you tried "microballoons" as a filler yet?
    I'm not sure because I not read the whole thread..

    Here you can see what I mean:
    Microballoons for Epoxy Resin, Filler| HP-Textiles


    //EDIT:
    There are also other grades:
    5 Liter Microballons, Microballoons, Glashohlkugeln ab 1,20 /Liter je nach Korn | eBay

    Maybe this is a good alternative for glitter?

    Would be nice to hear your opinion about that.

    Br
    H.
    Can you please help us understand more about this microballoon... how will it differ from rubber crumbs.

  15. #4015
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    Should be lighter -> hollow glass with 0,26 g/cm vs rubber crumb with 0,65 g/cm.
    Also you got a defined diameter you can chose so you can mix it up you want to and with a nice range of diamters.

  16. #4016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tech5 View Post
    Should be lighter -> hollow glass with 0,26 g/cm vs rubber crumb with 0,65 g/cm.
    Also you got a defined diameter you can chose so you can mix it up you want to and with a nice range of diamters.
    That sounds promising.. have had a major failure with rubber crumbs.

    Is this similar to LDPE? :

    Powder Coating, Plastic Coating, Polyester Coating, Thermoset Powder, Electrostatic Powder Coating

  17. #4017
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    If wikipedia is right LDPE is even heavyer than rubber and the microballoons -> 0.91 g/cm.
    I think in general its comparable but as I mentioned you have a wider range of diameters you can chose for your application.

  18. #4018
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    Looks promising. Try it and report back.

  19. #4019
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    Which would you recommend as filler?
    Imo it should be a "bigger" as the small holes can be plugged with pure latex.

  20. #4020
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    My last batch was latex, slime, DI water and anti freeze. It sealed up the tire but when I got a big thorn in Utah that hole didn't seal well.

    Batch 2 is needed. What ratios should I use? I have latex, RV antifreeze, slime, DI water, and cornmeal, glitter, and other bits I could add.

  21. #4021
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    For me slime, latex and RV antifreeze didn't work well. After one year tires look ugly inside, it was drying. But maybe it's because I was using Schwalbe lite skin tires.. they are thin as paper. Btw i made experiment and tried to mount road bike tire as tubeless my diy sealant didn't seal tire and it was not holding pressure Conti Revo sealed instantly same rim, same tire. Probably will give a chance to Conti.

    Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk

  22. #4022
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    Remember, this has been discussed before: chunkulators need to have close to neutral boyancy in the sealant. Otherwise they might float on the top and never get to a hole to seal it. Corn meal is just a little heavier than my sealant mixture, if you agitate it, it takes a while to sink. Slime is another example. It is thicker, but rubber chunks are denser than corn meal yet they are neutral density to slime since you can look at slime that has sat around for a month and the rubber is still more or less randomly floating. I don't tink corn meal is great becaiuse it is such a perfect product; I think corn meal works because it has the right density.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  23. #4023
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    Not sure if it's right but I found 0,66 g/cm for cornmeal?
    Thats almost exactly the value for rubber.

    //But you could be right with demixing when the density is way to different with base fluid.

  24. #4024
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tech5 View Post
    Not sure if it's right but I found 0,66 g/cm for cornmeal?
    Thats almost exactly the value for rubber.

    //But you could be right with demixing when the density is way to different with base fluid.
    Some notes.
    ~0,66g/cm3 is the density for dry cornmeal, don't know the density of hydrated cornmeal but i'm sure its higher than 0.82g/cm3 because that's the density for cornmeal flour.
    Solid rubber has a higher value than 0.66g/cm3, usually rubber is over 0.8g/cm3 and I think that is for natural rubber (dry latex), hard solid rubber, not sure so don't take my word for it, is over 1.1g/cm3.
    You can't use density values for grounded or dry chunkulators because they will behave differently in the mix, because the air will be replaced by water/pg/latex/etc...

    If I recall correctly the density for old Stan's is around 0.92g/cm3, meaning our BAMFS should also be around this value, so chunkulator with density values around this is ideal for a better neutral buoyancy.

    I have yet to check your link, and will do it later.
    I think some users had already tried with *glass wool and *rock wool, don't recall the results.

    *-don't know if those are the correct names in english, but those are the literal translation of the names in my language.

  25. #4025
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    I found this for rubber:

    The average loose density of tire shreds varies according to the size of the shreds, but can be expected to be between 390 kg/m3 (24 lb/ft3) to 535 kg/m3 (33 lb/ft3). The average compacted density ranges from 650 kg/m3 (40 lb/ft3) to 840 kg/m3 (52 lb/ft3).(3)
    https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/publication.../97148/st1.cfm

    So it has a wide range I guess.

    Here you can find the datasheet for the glass:
    http://www.hp-textiles.com/TDS/EN/Fi...ons/HP-MB2.pdf

  26. #4026
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Remember, this has been discussed before: chunkulators need to have close to neutral boyancy in the sealant. Otherwise they might float on the top and never get to a hole to seal it. Corn meal is just a little heavier than my sealant mixture, if you agitate it, it takes a while to sink. Slime is another example. It is thicker, but rubber chunks are denser than corn meal yet they are neutral density to slime since you can look at slime that has sat around for a month and the rubber is still more or less randomly floating. I don't tink corn meal is great becaiuse it is such a perfect product; I think corn meal works because it has the right density.
    I feel you are right. So is the case with Rice powder.

    At times I do wonder why change and look for LDPE etc, when rice powder is doing an awesome job.

  27. #4027
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neogen View Post
    I feel you are right. So is the case with Rice powder.

    At times I do wonder why change and look for LDPE etc, when rice powder is doing an awesome job.
    Because we have restless minds and... well we are just humans, and we like new things

  28. #4028
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Remember, this has been discussed before: chunkulators need to have close to neutral boyancy in the sealant. Otherwise they might float on the top and never get to a hole to seal it. Corn meal is just a little heavier than my sealant mixture, if you agitate it, it takes a while to sink. Slime is another example. It is thicker, but rubber chunks are denser than corn meal yet they are neutral density to slime since you can look at slime that has sat around for a month and the rubber is still more or less randomly floating. I don't tink corn meal is great becaiuse it is such a perfect product; I think corn meal works because it has the right density.
    Xantham Gum keeps it all in suspension

    I had booger problems with XG and Rubber Crumb but my XG & Corn Meal mix has no such problems.

  29. #4029
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    After trying a formula I've swiped from a patent:
    Patent US20140221535 - Tire Sealant and Preparation Method Thereof - Google Patents

    I can say that all latex-based solutions are inferior and chitosan/PVAl gel is the future of sealants.

    It seals large punctures - but hey, so can Stans and brews with proper amount of chunkulators.

    What is excels at is nearly instantly sealing micro-pores like in Continental Racesport tires, preventing sidewall weeping and keeping air in like a butyl tube. (While, for obvious reasons, highly porous tires sealed by latex-based sealants keep air more like a latex tube - requiring frequent pump-ups and refills. Latex is water and air permeable to a degree, after all.)

    Also, reprecipitating chitosan with waterglass instead of NaOH results in SiO2 gel that must also do a good job of helping seal this pores.

    I'm also using PVAl crosslinked by borax and then put though a kitchen blender.
    Note that performance of pure PVAl gel is inferior to PVAl/chitosan mix, it also have a tendency to coalesce, but it can be prevented by adding bentonite clay as per instructions. Chitosan gel seems to prevent coalescing and permanent sedimentation even without it, though bentonite might be a good component anyway, 'tests pending'

    A caveat:

    It has a tendency to stick to rims pretty strongly when tried up, though - which might be a problem for UST rims (does not stick to polypropylene tapes like Stans or TESA, obviously).

    It also pretty hard to remove from a tire when dried - though not much moreso than Latex-based sealants.

    What is also great that it does not require alkaline medium (high PH) and will not form boogers (just not acidic or chitosan will dissolve again).

    So, you can simply add water/antifreeze regularly and never worry about boogers. Since it seems to seal the tire from within much better, I think it would require less frequent topping up, too - even in porous tires.

    I highly recommend all homebrewers to try it. I've ordered my batch of chitosan from Amazon, bentonite clay is a component of some cat litter fillers, PVAl can be had from 'crafts shops'.

    Note: if you see 'water-soluble chitosan', avoid, this is a scam.
    I've been not careful and got one batch like that from Aliexpress first, turns out it is simple dietary glucose. Rather ironic, since 'dietary chitosan' is marketed as intestinal absorption enhancer and slimming aid .

    EDIT:
    I've mixed up polyvinyl acetate and polyvinyl alcohol. We need latter, of course - first is thermoplastic polymer that is not soluble in water. When you see PVAl, think polyvinyl alcohol.
    Last edited by Balor; 01-13-2017 at 07:49 PM.

  30. #4030
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balor View Post
    After trying a formula I've swiped from a patent:
    Patent US20140221535 - Tire Sealant and Preparation Method Thereof - Google Patents

    I can say that all latex-based solutions are inferior and chitosan/PVAc gel is the future of sealants.
    Ok, sounds like you're onto something. Can you give us the exact recipe you are currently using, and perhaps a history of mixes tried and results gained?

    Thanks for sharing!
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  31. #4031
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    I'm in. would love to experiment...the patent was too confusing, a recepie would help.

  32. #4032
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    Hmm. That is how I do it.

    Dissolve some chitosan as per instructions in 1% acetic acid (diluted vinegar, basically). For now I'm using 10 gramms. (1%) per liter. After some stirring you will end up with dilute 'chitosan kisel'.

    Neutralize the acid with waterglass, don't go too overboard or solution will become too alkaline (may not be good for your rims). I'm not a chemist so I cannot say how much is really required, a litmus paper might be helpful. The solution will turn opaque and even more viscous, forming a gel. Add a tablespon of 'undiluted' chitosan, it helps with 'logjam' mechanism of sealing as patent states.

    Dissolve PVAl in water, will take some boiling water and a lot of stirring. Don't aim for more then 5% solution, PVAl has limited solubility.
    Add about as much boric acid by weight as PVAl (or even less, as my experience shows). The solution will pretty much instantly turn into a block of rubbery gel (great fun, btw).
    Shove it into a blender and give it a whirl, until you'll get chunks fine enough to fit into a valve hole.
    Add that gooey mass into your sealant (up to 10% of total mass according to patent, that is about as much as I did), mix up.


    P.S. I also make silicagel by neutralising waterglass with same acetic acid and add a few grams into the mix.

    Like I said, before I got real chitosan, I've experimented with just PVAl gel and got poor results. With SiO2 (silicagel) blended into the mix I've got MUCH better results, but I also had to add bentonite to prevent coagulation.

    I'll be testing 'bentonite-less' brew soon, too, and will keep you guys posted.
    I've been testing it for a while already, and I think this should really shift the 'sealant paradigm'.

  33. #4033
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    A point of note:

    If you have an old tire you want to experiment with, a layer of latex buildup will interfere with this sealant function.
    Clean it well first, or try with a new tire (or, preferably, an old tire you thought worthless for tubeless installation)

    I've been using it with great success on converting Continental Grand Prix road tires into tubeless, for instance, and 'Cyclocross speed' tires that are inexpensive and roll wonderfully. It took a LOT of time and effort to seal them up with Stans, and they were weeping and leaking air for a week, requiring nearly constant attention.
    Even after initial sealing period they were behaving like tires with latex tubes, necessitating a pressure check every ride. With this sealant this is nearly as easy as mounting an UST tire, and it holds air nearly as well.

  34. #4034
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    By the way, I've tried a mix without bentonite and it didn't seal nearly as well.
    Fortunately, this is really cheap and easy to get ingredient.

  35. #4035
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    Okay, reading thru - here's the materials list. Priced available quantities, added needed amts per calcs below - please correct as required;

    The "body"/carrier/main mix - 90%;
    Chitosan powder - 90% deacetylation. $11/100g - need 30g
    Dilute acetic acid (distilled vinegar), too cheap to worry/1 gal - need 3L
    Waterglass, or sodium metasilicate, $11/1 lb - need a Tbsp?
    Litmus paper, $1/80 strips

    Chunkulants - 10%;
    Polyvinyl Alcohol powder, $11/100g - need 12.5g
    Boric acid (roach away), $5/1 lb (454g) - need 10g
    Distilled water, too cheap to worry/1 gal - need 1 1/2 cups
    Bentonite clay powder, $10/1 lb - need 1 Tbsp

    Body/carrier:
    Mix 10g chitosan/1 liter vinegar, add sodium metasilicate to reach pH of 6.67.3. Basic yield? Maybe 1.3L?

    PVA gel - 5% PVA in boiling water, boric acid to gel, blend fine. PVA density is 1.19g/cm3, works out to about 25g/oz volume. A mix of 1/2 oz or 1 tablespoon (Tbsp) PVA to 10 oz water is about a 5% solution. Add 1 Tbsp boric acid. Should yield about 1 .5 cup, or 0.36L.

    So make 3x basic body mix, 1 PVA gel as above, + Tbsp Bentonite.

    30g Chitosan, 3 L vinegar, 1Tbs PVA, 10oz distilled water, 1 Tbsp boric acid, 1Tbsp Bentonite.

    This batch should be just more than 1 gallon. (container needed)
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  36. #4036
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    Hmm. Why so much vinegar? You really only need about 1% vinegar for dissolution of chitosan, and I'm doing it in a separate small jug myself. Then I add waterglass until it turns into a thick 'hairy' gel and pour it into the main container. (Btw, make sure you first dump the chitosan into a liquid and THAN add vinegar, otherwise it will clump up and will not dissolve).

    By the way, I've found out that waterglass also crosslinks PVA solution, resulting in something like silicone rubber - and extremely tough one! My mixer even failed to blend it, so not that is not that useful by itself.
    But if you mix pva solution with dilute chitosan and THEN add waterglass you get a very interesting 'hairy gel', easily blendable and very thick. (Did I mention that doing this 'chemistry at home' is fun? )
    I think this is even getting outside the scope of the original patent, hah. But more experiments are required to fine tune proportions. It may be used as an addition to borax-crosslinked PVA or instead of it - again, there is still room for more experiments.
    But you still need to 'dope' it with silicagel and bentonite for it to truly work as intended.
    In result you get a gel that resist settling, plugs holes both large and small and holds air nearly like a butyl tube.

    I recommend you to try it on a Continental tire first - they are infamous for their porous sidewalls, I can attest to that.
    Get a pair and compare results to your WSS latex-based sealant.
    It likely works better than Stans, but still latex is much more permeable.
    I wonder if adding bentonite/precipitated silicagel to your WSS as 'chunkulators' would make it as good or better, though?

    Latex is more expensive however (I actually got 500 grams of PVAl for 10$, and that is HUGE amounts so far as resulting volumes are concerned) and prone to "polymerization into stanimals" (c) as soon as PH drops.

  37. #4037
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balor View Post
    Hmm. Why so much vinegar? You really only need about 1% vinegar for dissolution of chitosan, and I'm doing it in a separate small jug myself. Then I add waterglass until it turns into a thick 'hairy' gel and pour it into the main container. (Btw, make sure you first dump the chitosan into a liquid and THAN add vinegar, otherwise it will clump up and will not dissolve).
    This is why so much vinegar:

    Quote Originally Posted by Balor View Post
    Hmm. That is how I do it.

    Dissolve some chitosan as per instructions in 1% acetic acid (diluted vinegar, basically). For now I'm using 10 gramms. (1%) per liter. After some stirring you will end up with dilute 'chitosan kisel'.
    I interpreted this as 10g chitosan per liter vinegar - or was your comment on the strength of the vinegar?

    Quote Originally Posted by Balor View Post
    Then I add waterglass until it turns into a thick 'hairy' gel and pour it into the main container. (Btw, make sure you first dump the chitosan into a liquid and THAN add vinegar, otherwise it will clump up and will not dissolve).
    What other liquid before adding vinegar? I think this is the same misinterpretation, and the answer may clarify all. If only a small amount of vinegar is needed, perhaps the balance is distilled water? Best answer would be proportions needed of chitosan, vinegar, ?, ?....


    Quote Originally Posted by Balor View Post
    By the way, I've found out that waterglass also crosslinks PVA solution, resulting in something like silicone rubber - and extremely tough one! My mixer even failed to blend it, so not that is not that useful by itself.
    But if you mix pva solution with dilute chitosan and THEN add waterglass you get a very interesting gel 'hairy gel', easily blendable and very thick. (Did I mention that doing this 'chemistry at home' is fun? )
    I think this is even getting outside the scope of the original patent, hah. But more experiments are required to fine tune proportions. It may be used as an addition to borax-crosslinked PVA or instead of it - again, there is still room for more experiments.
    But you still need to 'dope' it with silicagel and bentonite for it to truly work as intended.
    In result you get a gel that resist settling, plugs holes both large and small and holds air nearly like a butyl tube.
    Hmm. I'm still thinking in terms of "carrier fluid" and "chunkulants" - but it seems that you are blurring the line a bit? Not a bad thing, indeed - and it's the same set of ingredients. Experiment on! And keep us posted.

    Quote Originally Posted by Balor View Post
    I wonder if adding bentonite/precipitated silicagel to your WSS as 'chunkulators' would make it as good or better, though?
    This is indeed an interesting thought. We tried hard silica (dessicant) run thru a blender - but it was too hard/heavy and settled out. Soft blended silica gel sounds better, and bentonite as a very small pitch chunkulant sounds appealing as well. Conversely, I was contemplating adding cotton "linter" fibers to your mix, since they work so well in
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  38. #4038
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    I interpreted this as 10g chitosan per liter vinegar - or was your comment on the strength of the vinegar?
    Yea, 'strength' of vinegar, exactly - or, namely 'concentration of acetic acid'. It is usually sold in 7% concentration, so you need to dilute it.

    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    What other liquid before adding vinegar? I think this is the same misinterpretation, and the answer may clarify all. If only a small amount of vinegar is needed, perhaps the balance is distilled water? Best answer would be proportions needed of chitosan, vinegar, ?, ?....
    The fluid is what was described as 'solvent' in the patent. Basically water + antifreeze additives like PG or glycerine. I've bought a 10-liter jug of glycerine-based heat transfer fluid myself .
    I'm just diluting the chitosan in one large cup with 1% acetic acid (concentration, again, volume does not matter much), than add enough waterglass to neutralise it and pour it into the blender, adding bentonite, precipitated silica and crosslinked PVAl gel, blend, than add more antifreeze as required and mix.
    It does not mean that this is an optimum way, and I'm still did not test borax-crosslinked vs waterglass-crosslinked gels.

    Quote Originally Posted by wadester View Post
    This is indeed an interesting thought. We tried hard silica (dessicant) run thru a blender - but it was too hard/heavy and settled out. Soft blended silica gel sounds better, and bentonite as a very small pitch chunkulant sounds appealing as well. Conversely, I was contemplating adding cotton "linter" fibers to your mix, since they work so well in
    Hah! I've been using shredded tube to try and seal a 5-mm long gash in sidewall.
    It sealed at low pressure, but when I tried to up the pressure (road tire) - spit it out.

    I'll sure try adding cotton fibers and see how it goes.

  39. #4039
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    Can't find this info in this thread...

    Is there a difference between "liquid latex" used in special effects prosthetics (like making Halloween monster makeup) and latex mould builder? I have found liquid a bit cheaper.
    Liquid Latex (16 Fluid Ounces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WCMKA0..._yXNKybTTQQ331

    I have been using latex caulk lately. Super cheap but not sure it works that well seems to harden and dry quickly.

  40. #4040
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    2 wraps of tape?

    My LBS is telling me to run 2 wraps of stan's tape, I don't see anyway that could add anything but cost to the setup. Stan's video shows one wrap with a six inch overlap.
    Any thoughts?
    Also, I'm having trouble finding latex locally. Party place wanted 23.99 for 12 0z jar.
    Our hobby lobby claims not to carry it, but I was asking for liquid latex, not mold builder.
    Finally ordered from Amazon. Cheap enough. Any other places might carry it? Art supply place I'm sure would be expensive too.
    It's not worth the hassle if it costs more than Stan's.
    Finally, I know a lot of people have contributed to this forum, but would be nice to find a recipe complete w mixing order here. Too much searching, and I almost ruined a batch before I found out mixing order was important. Not *****ing, just seems like a lot of reading.
    And thanks to those "On shoulders we stand" for blazing the WSS trail.
    Chet

  41. #4041
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    2 wraps is a waste. The biggest problem with Stan's tape is that it tends to become unstuck at the end of the overlap. This is true even if you let it sit for several hours with a tube to seat the tape. I have used a small piece of clear package tape to seal the ends of my last wheel build. I will report back. I have successfully used Goop in the past but you have to wait for it to dry. I am pretty sure Gorilla tape (the clear kind) would work and I will also experiment with that on next retaping.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  42. #4042
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    I'll watch for that. I have break my rear wheel apart (New Wheelset!), so I'll check the overlap.

  43. #4043
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    Quote Originally Posted by chet wright View Post
    Finally, I know a lot of people have contributed to this forum, but would be nice to find a recipe complete w mixing order here. Too much searching, and I almost ruined a batch before I found out mixing order was important.
    Every once in a while someone will post a recipe or group of recipes in a single post. I've done it myself. Problem is there's so much going on that it doesn't take long before it's lost in the thread.

  44. #4044
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    Just mixed a new batch of BAMFSv2.0 - 2 parts distilled water, 2 parts PG (Tractor Supply), 0.3 parts ammonia (Ace hardware), 1 part latex (Mold Builder), 1 tbs cornmeal (Kroger white). My v2.0 doesn't have the XG in it...I really don't think it helps and seems to make it thicker. This is basically the Stan's clone recipe. Will be installing some new tires so figured I would use my own vs. Stan's.

    Has anyone de-constructed the new Stan's Race formula sealant? Sounds like it has more/larger chunkulators and is thicker overall. I wonder if that is must what I have above with more latex and cornmeal or do you think its a different chunkulator? Its expensive.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

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  45. #4045
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    ^^Is that to mix up a pint sized bottle? Or would a pint sized bottle come out like this? (I just tripled everything)

    6oz water
    6oz PG
    .9oz amonia
    3oz latex
    3tbsp cornmeal

  46. #4046
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    @Tigeo:
    To me it looks like glassfiber, also I guess it contains more ammonia, it smells much stronger than the regular Stan's.
    I bought the race sealant but it is less easy to refill. It cloggs the syringe, even the old bottle tube seals up, so I have to partly undo the bead from the rim.
    Best way imo is to use the race sealant first time and afterwards refill with the regular or selfmade solution through the valve.
    The race version seals better and faster though.

  47. #4047
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    I am using the Hucking Kitty recipe (latex caulk, RV antifreeze, Slime) and my rear tire constantly has these wet-looking spots on it. This is what it looks like after 4 days of hanging in the garage. (Maxxis Igniter TR EXO) What's going on here?

    Best Tubeless Brew?-20170217_224614.jpg

  48. #4048
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    ^^^it's the PG (RV antifreeze) weeping. I get that with Stan's on some tires. The longer they sit, the more I see it.
    Do the math.

  49. #4049
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    Yeah, what LR said. I've had that in sidewalls from flex/porosity, and in the tread from "not quite sealed" punctures/porosity. Older tires are worse, but brand new tires may also do it.

    Some people have "painted" the inside of their tires with rubber cement or latex to seal porosity, but flex over time and punctures still lead to this.

    It's actually sealant leaking out - but the chunkulants either stick in the hole or fall off, the water evaporates, and you're left with the glycol - which sticks around and looks wet.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

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