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  1. #1
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    New question here. Asking for Bike Build Advice

    I am building up my first bike on a RIP 9 2013 frame probably in 2 weeks, all the parts are ordered.

    This is the first from bare frame build I have done, so I am asking for advice.

    How should I handle thread prep, and pointers or prep recommendations?
    I bought a 2-24 NM torque wrench, and I have various other bike tools.
    Lay it on me...

    For reference my build specs are below.

    Part Model
    Bottom Bracket 2013 SRAM GXP Team Bottom Bracket
    Cassette SRAM XX1 11 Speed Mountain Cassette
    Chain SRAM XX1 11 Speed Chain With Powerlock
    Crankset xx1 168Q 175MM
    Shifter (Rear) SRAM XX1 Trigger Shifter 11 Speed
    Derlr (Rear) SRAM XX1 Rear Derailleur
    Brake (Front) M785 203
    Brake (Rear) M785 180
    Fork Fox 34 Float 29er FIT CTD Tapered 140mm Fork 2013
    Frame RIP9 2013
    Handlebar 12 Easton EA70 Bar 31.8 685 WHITE LOW
    Grips RACEFACE GRIP LOCK-ON SNIPER W/LOCKS GREY
    Headset 2012 Cane Creek 40 Series ZS Tapered Headset 44/56
    Pedals Egg Beaters
    Saddle WTB Pure V Pro Saddle
    Seatpost Rock Shox Reverb 380 x 125, 30.9
    Stem 11 Easton EA70 Stem 31.8 6d 70mm
    Tire Schwalbe Nobby Nic TL PaceStar 2.35
    Wheel Custom F/R Flow EX, Hope 2 Pro Disc

  2. #2
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
    Reputation: Zachariah's Avatar
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    Installing a zero stack headset requires a headset press. The cups need to be pressed evenly into your carbon headtube. Either have your LBS do this for you(10-15 bux?) or make your own @Home Depot, with a long, threaded rod, a stack of oversize auto body washers and the corresponding nuts, at both ends, for under $10. Get a dedicated bike stand and start your build at the bottom bracket/cranks/pedals. Work your way counterclockwise(looking at bike from drive side)....ending your build with the installation of the chain.

    Here's my order of assembly:
    1) Drivetrain(BB/cranks/pedals)
    2) Headset(crown race, in new fork)
    3) Fork/stem
    4) Brake rotor front wheel(mount tire)
    5) Handlebars/shifters/lockout/dropper control/brakes/grips(ALL shifters left in relaxed state):
    Front shifter - granny or smallest ring
    Rear shifter - 11 or smallest cog
    6) Seatpost/dropper/saddle
    7) Front derailleur (fix cable/housings)
    8) Rear brake rotor(cassette/mount tire)
    9) Rear brake caliper(cut/bleed hose, if needed)
    10) Mount assembled rear wheel(adjust rear brake alignment)
    11) Fix rear shift cable/housings/adjust
    12) Install chain(cut, if needed)
    13) Set F/R suspension(60% of loaded body weight, positive air/-10psi for negative air/set rebound/dampening)
    14) Test ride and adjust everything accordingly

    Most of all - take your time and if something stumps you, go on the web for info or simply call your friendly LBS, for build advice. In my honest opinion - there is nothing more gratifying than hand-assembling your own dream bike, with parts carefully chosen by yourself. The ultimate reward finally comes when you have that $hit-eating, ear-to-ear grin on your favorite trail....the feeling is PRICELESS!!!!
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    Most of all - take your time and if something stumps you, go on the web for info or simply call your friendly LBS, for build advice. In my honest opinion - there is nothing more gratifying than hand-assembling your own dream bike, with parts carefully chosen by yourself. The ultimate reward finally comes when you have that $hit-eating, ear-to-ear grin on your favorite trail....the feeling is PRICELESS!!!!
    Very true!

  4. #4
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    This is the way I like to do it...most threads with different metals or steel on steel, clamped components, and pressed components using copper antisieze or grease...all threads same materials Ti/Al/SS silver or similar antisieze. Either this or blue Loctite if I don't want things to come apart. If you have tools like vices and clamps etc you can do a lot of pressing yourself, but if not like mentioned above you can make up stuff if you feel confident. Otherwise lbs. It's not worth forcing anything unless you know what you are doing. For my fork crown I used a pipe I ground the end on that fit perfectly on the crown race, and used my sash clamps to press it in. It was tight and went in with a bang but was all good. Headset cup in with my wooden jawed vice. Not sure if you have a PF BB but you could do something similar, but I am under he impression you want to be very careful as the PF is made to tighter tolerance and you don't want to damage it. Never had one myself.

  5. #5
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
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    Ok it sounds like you are building the new Alloy Rip9 & not the RDO or you would have said so.

    What size frame are you building ? & what seat height do you run ?

    I ask this because the new Rip9 seat tube doesn't let you use as long a seat post as the earlier Rip9 & you maybe better off using a 355mm Reverb seat post.

    I have built 2 Rip9 RDO's 1 med & 1 Lge & you need to do your sums on seat height.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the input guys. I had my LBS cut and set the fork, and set the cups. It is a large btw. Here is a pic of the finished product.

    Asking for Bike Build Advice-img_20130609_201812.jpg
    Last edited by bvdrax; 06-10-2013 at 07:42 AM.

  7. #7
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
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    That is a really nice looking bike.


    Quote Originally Posted by bvdrax View Post


    Thanks for the input guys. I had my LBS cut and set the fork, and set the cups. It is a large btw. Here is a pic of the finished product.

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing

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