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  1. #1
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    Ardent LUST disappointment

    I purchased a 2.25" LUST Maxxis Ardent for my rear tire back in March 2012. About 6 months later I started getting a leak from near the bead. me trying to figure it out

    Over the last couple weeks I've been re-pumping my rear tire every 5 miles or so...pretty frustrating for me and the people I'm riding with. My last attempt to save the tire was to sew around where the bead seemed to be separating from the sidewall.

    The tire will seal up as far as I can tell and seem to hold air, but when I get on the trail the bumps cause the sealant to fail. When i pump it back up, I can rotate the tire and the sealant will immediately stop the leak...until I go over a big bump (just a guess as I don't hear the leaking while riding).

    Last night it got much worse. The tire started leaking at 3 or 4 different places around the bead. My conclusion is that the sealant reacted with the inside of the tire and caused the bead to start separating from the sidewall.

    I want this to be a warranty issue, but I have strong doubts that there is any possibility of this. Maxxis has a 6 mo warranty and my first problem occurred almost exactly at 6 mo. However, I was looking at the qbp site and they say that if you use any sealant with a maxxis tire, it voids the warranty. bollocks

    My front EXO ardent 29x2.4 seems to be holding up great. It's about a month newer than the rear LUST, so I might start experiencing this problem soon. My hope is that maxxis uses different materials in the EXO tires that are less reactive with sealants.

    I use slime for tubeless tires that I buy at autozone, as its cheap and I can pick it up at a moment's notice. I've had great luck with slime over the last 2 years and with panaracer tires (burping was the problem with these).

    While 6 mo. of riding the LUST in the rear has worn the tread down quite a bit, I would continue to run these for 3 more months minimum if it weren't for the bead-sidewall failure. I'm a grad student and for me tires are a significant expenditure; 6 mo for a $50 tire is not enough.

  2. #2
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    I don't have the LUST version, but I've got a plain-vanilla 2.25 Ardent as a rear tire, and it's given me a bunch of tubeless problems. After way too many mystery bead leaks I finally gave up and will be running it with a tube until the tread wears out.

    But my 2.4 Exo upfront has been tubeless without issues for a year and a half.

  3. #3
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    I read your other thread and it is clear that you pinch flatted your tire on the sidewall by the bead. This happened when you bottomed out the tire and put the dent in your rim. There is no way that is a warranty issue, in my opinion.

    Sewing the bead hasn't worked for you, so I would get a new tire. You could try super glue or shoe goo or something to limp along on for a while, but make sure the tire is dry before you do.

    Patching a tire there is hard to do, but depending on exactly where the cut is you might be able to. I have patched a tire near the bead with a cut in half tube patch and rubber cement, but it's iffy. If you haven't patched a tire this way before, I wouldn't start with one at the bead.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gilarider View Post
    I read your other thread and it is clear that you pinch flatted your tire on the sidewall by the bead. This happened when you bottomed out the tire and put the dent in your rim. There is no way that is a warranty issue, in my opinion.

    Sewing the bead hasn't worked for you, so I would get a new tire. You could try super glue or shoe goo or something to limp along on for a while, but make sure the tire is dry before you do.

    Patching a tire there is hard to do, but depending on exactly where the cut is you might be able to. I have patched a tire near the bead with a cut in half tube patch and rubber cement, but it's iffy. If you haven't patched a tire this way before, I wouldn't start with one at the bead.
    In addition to that, I would seriously ditch the Slime for some real tubeless sealant.

  5. #5
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    A really ghetto answer may be wrapping the affected area with a strip off gorilla tape. I keep some in my pack in case I rip the sidewall or something. I once ran a hutchi python with a rip at the bead with gorilla tape for months tubeless.

  6. #6
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    What kind of rims are you using? They could be a major contributor to your tubeless woes.

    I agree that this isn't a warrantee issue. Sorry. However, an alternative to "fixing" your tire is to use a tube. I prefer tubeless also but sometimes you have to be willing accept defeat. That way you can get your $ out of the tire.

    People don't like to admit that Mtb is an expensive hobby and parts generally don't last as long as you'd like. Yesterday I threw away a year old pair of Crank pedals because they were already toasted. I've also owned several tires that didn't last three months. It's terribly frustrating.

    Good luck with your tire and making a decision.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gilarider View Post
    I read your other thread and it is clear that you pinch flatted your tire on the sidewall by the bead. This happened when you bottomed out the tire and put the dent in your rim. There is no way that is a warranty issue, in my opinion.

    Sewing the bead hasn't worked for you, so I would get a new tire. You could try super glue or shoe goo or something to limp along on for a while, but make sure the tire is dry before you do.

    Patching a tire there is hard to do, but depending on exactly where the cut is you might be able to. I have patched a tire near the bead with a cut in half tube patch and rubber cement, but it's iffy. If you haven't patched a tire this way before, I wouldn't start with one at the bead.
    That was what I originally thought, but it doesn't explain why the same thing would happen at several points around the tire as time went by. It's also much unlike most sidewall cuts in that I can't see that there is a hole, just that the sidewall material seems a little "different". Since pinching it doesn't explain very well why the tire failed in several places and because my suspicion is aroused by their anti-sealant warranty policy, I'm still quite dissatisfied with the performance of the tire. It failed prior to the point of failure due to normal wear and tear imho.

    definitely going to be moving on, most likely this tire will be fine with a tube (not usually the case w/o a boot when you cut the sidewall from bottoming out), so either that or a different tire is in my immediate future (as in the next couple hours when I work on my bike )


    And Bruce, I've been really happy with slime, but I would regret it if I found out that I was dissolving tons of tires with the choice; I know other people that have been using it longer than me who haven't had this issue. That's fairly reassuring, but I won't buy another maxxis LUST tire regardless of the sealant I choose. I'm not keen on ditching it because its $10 for a liter and autozone is both closer to my house and has better hours than the bike shops in town. cost on stan's is 50% higher and I have to order it before I need it if I go the qbp route.

  8. #8
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    Time is money for most folks, so, move on. The tire is dead. Cut it up for a chain stay guard.

    I know next to nothing about your rim so not sure about what tires fit best tubless. However, if cash is as much of a concern as you say, replace your toasted tire with an old fashioned Kenda. While not the fastest rolling tire they handle sealant very well, set up tubeless well, can be found super cheap, and do not wear fast.

    For a higher performance tire that plays well tubeless, that is still not too expensive, look at Specialized tubeless tires.

  9. #9
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    I think you are just pinching the tire more as time goes on, there doesn't have to be rim damage, but if there is it makes the pinch obvious. The damage to the sidewall is in the same place as a pinch flat cut, and you haven't cut all the way through, but have pinched through the rubber enough that it is no longer airtight.

    Since you are using the type of slime you are using, the sealant doesn't have a chance to seal up a cut there permanently. Stan's or some latex sealant would dry up at the cuts and maybe be able to seal. The slime stays wet, so if it does seal, it can just fall away from the hole later and start leaking again.

    The sealant warning is not an issue with slime, I think. Slime doesn't eat up rubber that I have ever seen or heard of. The problems seem to be with stan's, and it gets between the tread and the casing and causes big blisters. I have had it happen with hutchinson tires myself.

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