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  1. #1
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    29er built wheels

    hi! anybody running 29er built wheels? planning on building a set. any problems with spoke lacking tension? creaking spokes? or wheels not rigid enough? is a factory wheelset a better option? need your help. thank you very much!

  2. #2
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    I started out on a set of Bontrager Dusters that came stock on my Fisher and was constantly having problems with trueness and it seemed I could never maintain a line while cornering. Because I don't have the patience for wheel building, I purchased a set of handbuilt Pacenti DL 31's laced via DT aero spokes to DT Swiss 240's from lacemine29.com. Best investment I have ever made and the price was better than most high end factory wheel sets. I have had this setup for going on about five months now and have yet to have any problems with the build and my bike handling has improved exceptionally. For what it's worth, I have two friends who went the other route and purchased factory wheel builds - one being the I9 and the other the Easton Haven - and they have both had problems with tension,trueness, and spoke breaks.
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    yes i also thought about using aero spokes. just to eliminate spoke rubbing. which causes the creaking sound. but problems with trueness is not an issue for me. i run stans alpha 340 discs on my roadbike the spokes are dt supercomp which are thicker at 1.7mm in the middle area. now i am planning to try dt revolutions they are 1.5mm thickness at the middle. i hope it will solve the problem. are the aero spokes you are using tensioned to the maximum required?

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    OP, given any thought about Light-Bicycle carbon rims? They're stiffer than a 20 year old on 100mg of Viagra!
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rider168 View Post
    hi! anybody running 29er built wheels? planning on building a set. any problems with spoke lacking tension? creaking spokes? or wheels not rigid enough? is a factory wheelset a better option? need your help. thank you very much!
    I'm not sure what the question is. Of course we're all running "29er built wheels" on our 29er bikes, with proper spoke tension. Rigidity is a matter of the rim; some are stiff, some not so much. Some factory wheelsets are good, some not so much.

    There are good and not so good wheelsets out there and good and not so good rims that you can build into a wheelset.
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    thank you for that insight. i am now in the process if choosing what spoke. would it be dt swiss revolution or the aero light spokes. i am having problems with spoke rubbing and its causing creaking sounds which is very annoying. trueness of the wheel i have no problems with.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rider168 View Post
    thank you for that insight. i am now in the process if choosing what spoke. would it be dt swiss revolution or the aero light spokes. i am having problems with spoke rubbing and its causing creaking sounds which is very annoying. trueness of the wheel i have no problems with.
    Spokes won't rub so much if the rim was stiffer...
    You can also increase the stiffness of a wheel by tying and soldering the crosses...no more movement and no more creaking.

    Funny, this is a first that I've heard of creaking from spoke/spoke contact. Are you sure whoever built your wheel tensioned the wheel properly?
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    yes its from spoke/spoke contact. its a alpha 340 disc from stans. called them up. they told me its from the spoke rubbing thats making the creaking noise. same here first time for me too.

  9. #9
    thin blue line
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    Listen!

    Quote Originally Posted by rider168 View Post
    yes i also thought about using aero spokes. just to eliminate spoke rubbing. which causes the creaking sound. but problems with trueness is not an issue for me. i run stans alpha 340 discs on my roadbike the spokes are dt supercomp which are thicker at 1.7mm in the middle area. now i am planning to try dt revolutions they are 1.5mm thickness at the middle. i hope it will Vchoggard@icloud.com. are the aero spokes you are using tensioned to the maximum required?
    I honestly could not say for sure. I don't have a great deal of first hand knowledge about these things, but if I remember correctly the builder stated that the spokes would be over tensioned so that upon riding the tension would release according to my weight. Don't quote me on that though. I do know that the first ride or two consisted of my spokes making all sorts of noise and now there is none.
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  10. #10
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    29er built wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by rider168 View Post
    yes its from spoke/spoke contact. its a alpha 340 disc from stans. called them up. they told me its from the spoke rubbing thats making the creaking noise. same here first time for me too.
    Unless you have radial lacing or straight pull spokes, the spokes ALWAYS touch at the outermost cross. If you are getting creaking the tension is too low or it is just a very, very bad build.
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    If you are getting creaking on a wheel with an Alpha 340 rim and Supercomp spokes you could check what's going on by looking at the spoke tension with a Parks TM-1 tension meter or watch them check spoke tension at your LBS.
    Stans lists the spoke tension allowed for that rim at ZTR Rim Setup and Spoke Tension under Tech Documents on the Help Center page. Max spoke tension is 125kgf. The prior listing required nipple washers for that amount so your build may have them.
    Drive side rear could be 105-125 and non drive can be less for dish 70-90 range.
    I built two wheelsets with Supercomps and ArchEx rims over a year ago. I haven't had creaking in over a year of riding them. I'll be using the same spoke for the next build.

  12. #12
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    I'm new to MTB after being out many year's so forgive this question.
    When Thoggard stated " if I remember correctly the builder stated that the spokes would be over tensioned so that upon riding the tension would release according to my weight.
    This reminded me of some thing I had read on Lacemine29's site this is from his site.

    "I built 'em the way I always do--heaps of time spent lacing, pre-aligning, lubricating, tensioning, stress relieving, retensioning, re-stress relieving, overandoverandover, until tension was *there*.
    Now I wonder if the over tensioning would be the proper way to build a wheel or the way lacemine did his ?
    To me the lacemine seem's to make more sense
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  13. #13
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    My Internet diagnosis is 1) spoke tension issue or 2) you are too heavy for the wheel set.

    You can do a quick check of spoke tension - check by sound, like tuning a guitar. Pick each spoke with your fingernail. Listen to the sound. All the drive side sound sound the same; all the non-drive side should sound the same. The non-drive side will have a lower tone than drive side. If the spokes on a given side have very different tones, the spoke tension is not even.

    I don't think revolutions will solve your problem (all other factors being the same - they may make it worse; they stretch more than competitions). Stick with DT competitions or similar.

    I use revolutions on road racing wheels. They do not always hold up as daily drivers. I don't think the weight savings on them it worth the increased breaking rate.

    I know 20 people will now post that they have used revolutions for years and never had one break. I have used them and had them break. I have not broken very many Competitions under normal use (loaded touring bike is not normal; impacts from sticks, etc. is not normal)

    Back in the day, people tied and soldered the spoke cross point you have identified as your creaking.

  14. #14
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    29er built wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by PauLCa916 View Post
    I'm new to MTB after being out many year's so forgive this question.
    When Thoggard stated " if I remember correctly the builder stated that the spokes would be over tensioned so that upon riding the tension would release according to my weight.
    This reminded me of some thing I had read on Lacemine29's site this is from his site.

    "I built 'em the way I always do--heaps of time spent lacing, pre-aligning, lubricating, tensioning, stress relieving, retensioning, re-stress relieving, overandoverandover, until tension was *there*.
    Now I wonder if the over tensioning would be the proper way to build a wheel or the way lacemine did his ?
    To me the lacemine seem's to make more sense
    You should never over-tension a wheel.
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  15. #15
    ballbuster
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Unless you have radial lacing or straight pull spokes, the spokes ALWAYS touch at the outermost cross. If you are getting creaking the tension is too low or it is just a very, very bad build.
    Yeah, second that. I've owned probably 10 sets of 29er wheels in my time, 6 sets I built myself, the rest from MikeSee or OEM with a bike... and those OEMs were pretty dang cheapo wheels.

    I've never had the issue you are speaking of. No creaking ever. I've had some factory wheels come out less than even, and I had to true them up a few times before they became stable, or some I was just too heavy for, and needed constant truing... but never any creaking.

    I think you are worrying about a non-issue. If in doubt, just build up a wheel using quality parts (wheelsmith or DT Swiss spokes, good quality rims) and have them built by somebody who knows what they are doing, and you'll be fine.

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