Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 27
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    29

    26t front on 1x11, what is your experience?

    I'm looking for real world feedback from those of you who have experience running the very small 26t up front on a 1x10 or 1x11. I'm thinking about going this way to replicate the low on my current triple 9 speed set up. It's time to ditch the triple. I realize I will lose the high end and I'm fine with that. I haven't seen a lot of posts on using this granny and was wondering what the community thinks. Thanks in advance.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    No longer 26
    Reputation: G-Live's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,082
    Im using a 28 tooth sram direct fit. I like it a lot in WI trails. 28-42 matches the low gearing of the 24-36 I used on my previous 2 x 10

    G
    You can't depend on honest answers from dependant hands...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1,785
    For cross country stuff in rolling hills terrain, I did a 29T with an 11-34 1x9. The 29/34 was just enough to get up the steepest hill I would encounter. Anything slower than that, I just got off and walked, because if I tried to actually ride anything slower than that, I had no momentum and would fall over once I come to the smallest log. The high speed lacked a bit when I could open up, but for primarily flatland areas, it was enough.

    Problems I encountered were chainline, but that can usually be adjusted with external bearing bottom brackets. My second issue was dropped chain. Didn't happen often, but once the aluminum chainring started to wear and I got better through the season and hit bigger stuff, it would drop. To my knowledge, nobody makes a NW chainring smaller than 30T. You could use a 26T SS chainring, but that might be difficult to find. Clutch derailure is nice, wish I had one.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    117
    I don't know what kind of crazy steep stuff you're climbing but 26t seems small. I was worried about going to 30t, but have gotten accustomed to it and stronger in the process, it's all I need for the steep stuff around socal and I wouldn't consider myself an amazing climber. The link below helped me figure out what I would be losing from my 2X10 setup going to 1X11. I tried to mimic by not using certain gears at the top and bottom end to see if I could appromixate the new ratios w/ the 1x11

    Gear Inches Chart for 29er Wheels ? 1x11 v.s. 2x10 ? The Best Triathlon Training Plans | Mountain Bike Training Plans | Cycling Training Plans | Marathon Training Plans - Gale Bernhardt Consulting

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    6,131
    I run 26T WT DM ring on a Tallboy LTc to a X01 rear cassette.
    I don't miss the high end. I can only pedal to get to a certain speed on the downs because of the level of chunks on the CO Front Range trails. The ability of the wagon wheels to carry speed/momentum also helps.
    I also took the bike up to Trestle and it did just fine. Spool the bike up to a certain speed...say 15mph, and then just let it roll. I was catching/passing many big bikes on Rainmaker.
    This said, I also road ride and can spin up to 110 rpm w/ 175mm cranks.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    29
    Currently I'm running 12-36 (9 spd)cassette with 22-32-44 up front. I use the 22-36 combo enough to know I don't want to give it up. I'm in decent shape but it's nice to have the bail out granny. A 26-42 basically replaces the same low I have now. I could do a 28t I'm sure and be fine but I figure if I'm gonna go low I might as well go all the way to a NW 26t unless people have had problems with that.

    There are direct mount NW 26t rings available from wolftooth and NSB. Fwiw, I'd get the new xtr shifter and RD and use the new xt 11-42.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Pau11y's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    6,131
    Is the NSB NW? I have one and it's not, and I did drop chains w/ it.

    Might be cheaper to do the OneUp conversion than go Shimano 11. I'm doing the 1x10 11-42 on a new Nomad build instead of going full 11 spd. A OneUp Rad-r cage, a WT 42T w/ 16T replacement, and the WT NW DM 26T ring w/ the DM bash ring. That bash does work well to help protect the teeth.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
    ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,735
    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post

    Problems I encountered were chainline, but that can usually be adjusted with external bearing bottom brackets. My second issue was dropped chain. Didn't happen often, but once the aluminum chainring started to wear and I got better through the season and hit bigger stuff, it would drop. To my knowledge, nobody makes a NW chainring smaller than 30T. You could use a 26T SS chainring, but that might be difficult to find. Clutch derailure is nice, wish I had one.
    ^^This

    As you go smaller in the front and bigger in the rear...the worse off the chainline will be. If you use a 40/42 in the rear and a 26 in the front...you'll have a pretty extreme chainline. It'll be really evident when you use the three large cogs. Most of the wear that I've come across is the wear on the outer teeth from extreme angles in the large cogs.

    If you have a 64/104 crank, Absolute Black makes a 64 bcd NW ring. In the 64 position...it'll have a much straighter chainline in the large cogs compared to a ring that's mounted in the 104 bcd.

  9. #9
    since 4/10/2009
    Reputation: Harold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    14,725
    26x42 is LOW.

    I'm on 28x11-42 on my Salsa Bucksaw. I have tossed around the idea of going smaller for my chainring at times (mostly wintertime riding where in deep, fresh snow, I spend all my time in 28x42 gearing), but if 28x42 isn't low enough for anything I'm climbing, I'm walking it anyway.

    Choose a chainring size that would let you spend most of your time nearer the middle of your cassette with a straighter chainline. So you want to look at the gear ratios you actually use the most often now before you pin down gearing choices.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,830
    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    ^^This

    As you go smaller in the front and bigger in the rear...the worse off the chainline will be. If you use a 40/42 in the rear and a 26 in the front...you'll have a pretty extreme chainline. It'll be really evident when you use the three large cogs. Most of the wear that I've come across is the wear on the outer teeth from extreme angles in the large cogs.
    By definition the chain ring diameter (# of teeth) has nothing to do with chain line. Chain line is only the horizontal distance of the ring from the center of the frame.

    Chain line can also refer to the deviation from parallel of the chain with the frame center line, and again would be uneffected by chain ring diameter.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,830
    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    To my knowledge, nobody makes a NW chainring smaller than 30T.
    Wolftooth does 28 and 26 NW.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,830
    Quote Originally Posted by Silent Drone View Post
    I'm looking for real world feedback from those of you who have experience running the very small 26t up front on a 1x10 or 1x11. I'm thinking about going this way to replicate the low on my current triple 9 speed set up. It's time to ditch the triple. I realize I will lose the high end and I'm fine with that. I haven't seen a lot of posts on using this granny and was wondering what the community thinks. Thanks in advance.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I use a 26T on my X01 set up for the exact same reason. To match the granny I had with my 2x system (26x42 is about the same as 22x36).

    I like it just fine. No wear problems, no dropped chains. If I was riding pavement a lot I could see wanting a higher high gear but I never ride pavement.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,830
    Quote Originally Posted by Silent Drone View Post
    Fwiw, I'd get the new xtr shifter and RD and use the new xt 11-42.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It doesn't sound like a big deal, but the Sram 10x42 gives you much higher high gear than the 11 tooth on the Shimano. That 1 tooth difference is like 3 teeth on the front. (26x10 is close to a 29x11). Since you are considering giving up so much high end already with the 26, you might want to think about going with the 10T Sram option.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    7,830
    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post

    If you have a 64/104 crank, Absolute Black makes a 64 bcd NW ring. In the 64 position...it'll have a much straighter chainline in the large cogs compared to a ring that's mounted in the 104 bcd.
    I think the 64 BCD location is a good option for a lot of people, and lets you use your existing 2x or 3x crank. A lot of people spend more time on the big end of the cassette anyway, and it will give you better chainline in those cogs, at the expense of worse chain line in the small cogs. But there is usually less chain tension when in the small cogs (riding flat or downhill), so it can be a worthwhile trade off.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,735
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    By definition the chain ring diameter (# of teeth) has nothing to do with chain line. Chain line is only the horizontal distance of the ring from the center of the frame.

    Chain line can also refer to the deviation from parallel of the chain with the frame center line, and again would be uneffected by chain ring diameter.
    It does something to the chainline. I can hear more noise coming from the chainring when I added the OneUp 42T. The smaller the chainring...the faster it seems to wear out. The wear is on the outer teeth of the NW ring.

    I ordered a direct mount ring with a 47.5mm chainline. I'll see if the noise goes away in the large cogs.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    29
    Thanks. This is just the feedback I was looking for. I'll try it and report back.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    Anchorage, AK
    Reputation: Lars_D's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    897
    I am very pleased with my narrow-wide 26t front. It got me over the Alaska Range last winter with no problems. I have a 10-42 Sram cassette in back. Chainline is perfect.




    I did switch to a 28t oval a few months ago, which I also like.
    --Peace

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    10
    Got a 64bcd 28t Absolute Black ring on my fat bike. Love it. Don't race, don't need to go fast, more smiles per mile.

    Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,566
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    Wolftooth does 28 and 26 NW.
    Race Face also does NW down to 26T. They work just fine.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,566
    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    It does something to the chainline.
    No it doesn't.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    76
    It makes sense for my current riding on my 29er. It gives me a useful spread of gears, and I never "spin out." Not only do I use the full spread of the 10-42 cassette, but it keeps the gear ratios a little closer together.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ser jameson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    160
    What is it with all these ultra low gears you folks are running?
    I'm running a 30t and have been considering a 32t, and I'm far from superman. I'm 175lb, 40 year old on a 30lb FS 29 er. I live in the PNW, so half of every ride is climbing.
    I'd be quite annoyed with anything less than a 30t. It's not a road bike. Don't sit and spin so much, get out of the saddle for gods sake!


    Sent from my flip phone

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,471
    ^^^ Some people have hills? Different strokes for different folks? Plus I have old man knees. I like options to not redline. And spinning is good me me, not mashing. YRMV

  24. #24
    Anchorage, AK
    Reputation: Lars_D's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by craigsj View Post
    No it doesn't.
    Yes it does. Unless you have a direct mount crank, 26 or 28 will be in the inner most chain ring position. 32 or bigger will be in the middle or outside position.
    --Peace

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    20
    Can't tell you what'll work for you, but I can share my experience.

    Converted my 2011 HiFi 29 from 3x9 to 1x10 a couple months ago. Started the initial build with 11-36 and a 30t raceface NW chainring, with the expectation that I'd need to reconfigure the cassette to 11-42 asap, and likely need to figure out how to go smaller with the chainring.

    So, I'm now riding 34t up front, and have absolutely zero plans on re-configuring the cassette. I don't run out of gears on either end, almost never hit the 36, and only top out off-trail and down-hill.

    All I can advise is worry less about what you _should_ do, and more about how it works for you. Do the initial conversion, then ride for a couple of weeks. THEN you'll know what you're missing...if anything.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. How to 1x11 with 26 front and 42 rear?
    By jasontech17 in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 47
    Last Post: 01-07-2015, 06:51 PM
  2. Any Experience with the Surly nice Front Rack?
    By alaskadude in forum Bikepacking and Bike Expedition
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 09-25-2014, 01:19 PM
  3. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-02-2014, 04:55 PM
  4. Replies: 31
    Last Post: 06-11-2012, 06:00 AM
  5. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-06-2012, 07:11 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Can't find it? Just search our site!