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Thread: 1X10 conversion

  1. #1
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    1X10 conversion

    I have a 2014 Specialized Rockhopper ProEvo 29 and I want to change from the stock 2x10 setup to a 1X10. What do I need to do?

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    Buy a chain retaining chainring (Race Face Narrow Wide, Wolf Tooth, Absolute Black, etc) in your desired tooth count. Remove your front shifter and derailleur. Enjoy.

    You can run a clutch derailleur if you want but the chainring will provide enough chain retention that you will not need one.
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    Thank you for your input on this. About 90% of my riding is on the larger ring (36T) since I feel the small ring (22T) is just too small. Should I stay with the 36T when I replace it or move down a bit to a 34T?

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    I just converted my Superfly from 2x10 to 1x10. I did it the "right way" trying to limit any issues I might run into (drop chains, etc).

    XTR clutch RD
    Raceface Narrow wide chain ring
    New XT chain

    I would suggest 32 or 34 chain ring, but again it all depends on the rider. I went 32 front chain ring matched up with an 11-36 rear cassette. I wasn't man enough for that combo, so I ordered a Oneup Components 42t kit with Radr cage. It's perfect.

    250km (very rocky and rooty) and not a single dropped chain
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  5. #5
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    Thanks for your insight. I am also running a 11-36 cassette so I'm thinking a 36T up front (it's a 36/22 setup right now) since I do most of my riding on that cog most of the time

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    all i did was get the new ring, remove front DR, shorten chain 2 links and i was done. didn't bother with a clutch rear DR. I didn't think I'd need one and
    I haven't. Riding a Airborne Goblin in SoCal, lots of long climbs up so i got the 30t

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    I went from a 38/24 to a 32T Race Face Narrow Wide w/ 11-36 cassette. I really wanted to go with a 30T since there is much climbing in WNC, but local shop only had a 32T in stock. I am happy that I went with the larger 32T as I believe it is making me a faster rider. The climbs I struggled on when I first converted are becoming much easier the more I ride.

    So I would go with the larger chain ring as your riding will adapt.
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    I decided to go ahead with the Raceface Narrow Wide 36T as I got it for less than $20 and free shipping. I figure that for that price I can buy a smaller ring later if necessary. Thanks for all of your input and I will keep you updated on how it works out.

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    I have a 34T on my 3x and find that the 34 with the 36 in the rear is still too tall. So if I go 1x and drop to a 32t front I don't think 36 on the rear is enough. If I go with a 42T step up I'd probably just pull the 12t since I have the 11T in the rear cassette?

  10. #10
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    - 1X10 setup: front chainring - AbsoluteBlack 64 BCD 26T W/N, 10 spd. cassette upgraded with OneUp 42T / 16T cogs, & XT drivetrain.........I've been riding this setup for over a year now with NO dropped chains and NO regrets.......
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LUVMYRT View Post
    Thank you for your input on this. About 90% of my riding is on the larger ring (36T) since I feel the small ring (22T) is just too small. Should I stay with the 36T when I replace it or move down a bit to a 34T?
    See gear chart below... figure out what gears you actually use and make your compromise from there. No matter what you'll lose range but you need to decide what gears you're willing to give up. I put 34 in there for you so you could see what that looks like. Formatting may show up a little off but the first column is the teeth on your cassette cogs (assuming you have an 11-36), 2nd column is 22 ring ratios in those cogs, 3rd is 36 ring, 4th is 34 ring.

    Cassette 22 36 34
    11 2.00 3.27 3.09
    13 1.69 2.77 2.62
    15 1.47 2.40 2.27
    17 1.29 2.12 2.00
    19 1.16 1.89 1.79
    21 1.05 1.71 1.62
    24 0.92 1.50 1.42
    28 0.79 1.29 1.21
    32 0.69 1.13 1.06
    36 0.61 1.00 0.94


    edit: looks like you already made a decision so never mind

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    See gear chart below... figure out what gears you actually use and make your compromise from there. No matter what you'll lose range but you need to decide what gears you're willing to give up. I put 34 in there for you so you could see what that looks like. Formatting may show up a little off but the first column is the teeth on your cassette cogs (assuming you have an 11-36), 2nd column is 22 ring ratios in those cogs, 3rd is 36 ring, 4th is 34 ring.

    Cassette 22 36 34
    11 2.00 3.27 3.09
    13 1.69 2.77 2.62
    15 1.47 2.40 2.27
    17 1.29 2.12 2.00
    19 1.16 1.89 1.79
    21 1.05 1.71 1.62
    24 0.92 1.50 1.42
    28 0.79 1.29 1.21
    32 0.69 1.13 1.06
    36 0.61 1.00 0.94


    edit: looks like you already made a decision so never mind
    I did the same thing for weeks and weeks comparing to see what the best combo for me would be before I switched. What I found out is that with my setup, 38/26 trail crank and 11x36 back, is that I really only used my 26 as a bailout ring when I was either tired or had a sharp, steep climb. So what I did was go with a chainring that was in between, a 32T. So far I have been great with that, dont really feel like I spinout when I am descending unless it is a super fast section but I still have enough that I can climb strongly without having to grunt up some climbs. yeah there are those that still require me to grunt or stand and mash the pedals but for the most part I have not lost anything either way.

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    30 front, 11 - 42 rear (10 speed) on the odd climbs I miss old 2x, 24t cog... and on the occasional flat, hardpack sprint - I miss the old 36t cog... but on up and downy trails, I'm not pissin around trying to figure out right gearing for next up/down.

    My front 30t cog is narrow/wide... 42t added out back, replaced one of smaller cogs... My RD is Shadow SLX Plus - haven't dropped a chain yet...

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    Quote Originally Posted by KidConejo View Post
    I have a 34T on my 3x and find that the 34 with the 36 in the rear is still too tall. So if I go 1x and drop to a 32t front I don't think 36 on the rear is enough. If I go with a 42T step up I'd probably just pull the 12t since I have the 11T in the rear cassette?
    Doesn't quite work out that way. Usually you pull the 15T and 17T cogs and replace them with 16T and either a 40T or 42T cogs.

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    I just swapped to a Raceface 32 front chain wheel. Everything else is factory stock on my 2013 Rockhopper. So far I've had no problems at all. No dropped chains. I do have parts on order for the 1x10. 11/36 cassette, clutch derriallier, shifter. But it works fine as is for now.

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    I had to switch to clutch der to keep the chain from dropping on fast runs with big hits. Beyond that one issue it worked great with the original XT.

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    1X10 conversion-imageuploadedbytapatalk1433347248.852447.jpg
    Well, I finally had the time this morning to install the Raceface NW (I kept my bash guard too). So far there seems to be no shifting or chain retention problems.1X10 conversion-imageuploadedbytapatalk1433347436.258004.jpg


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    Quote Originally Posted by unaware View Post
    Doesn't quite work out that way. Usually you pull the 15T and 17T cogs and replace them with 16T and either a 40T or 42T cogs.
    So I can't just get rid of the 13T cog since I never use it? What if I just want to add the 40T or 42T cog?

    I have a 3x10 now and was planning to keep the 32 chainring and get rid of the 24 and 42. Or do I need a wide narrow chainring for the front?

    I already have a long cage clutch xt rear derailleur so that should be good. But would the 42T hit the rear der so I need a longer set screw or am I good?

    I'm looking for the cheapest way to go 1x10 but still be reliable. Otherwise I might just go 2x for the same price of around $130-150. This way I can maintain granny gears for the drawn out Socal climbs.

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    You can't "just add a cog", you need to remove something else if you're adding something.

    The reason people remove the 15 and 17 for a 16 is that it makes a more reasonable jumps between gears. 11 to 15 would be awful if you removed the 13. Even if you don't use the 13, you still would eventually find yourself shifting between the 11 and 15.

    If you have a 30 ring up front and assume a cadence of 90, 11 to 15 is 14mph to 19.2mph, wayyy too big of a jump.

  20. #20
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    You will need a narrow/wide chainring upfront

  21. #21
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    I had to buy a new crank so here is my new setup. Gunna see how she rides this week.

    XX1 Crank
    XT Cassette
    XT Chain
    Wolf Tooth 28T in front and 42T in back

    A little nervous bout the 28T. Should climb good. But wondering if I should have went with a 30T or 32T... But Idaho has lots of climbing. So we shall see.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by F29Lefty View Post
    I had to buy a new crank so here is my new setup. Gunna see how she rides this week.

    XX1 Crank
    XT Cassette
    XT Chain
    Wolf Tooth 28T in front and 42T in back

    A little nervous bout the 28T. Should climb good. But wondering if I should have went with a 30T or 32T... But Idaho has lots of climbing. So we shall see.
    I know it's been a while but can you tell me how the 28t worked out for you.
    I'm just going 1x10 from 2x10. had a 38/24 crank with 36/11 cassette.
    was going to a 28T and adding a 42 to the cassette. I have a few climbs that I used the 24-36.
    Now I'm not sure if I should had went with the 30T because it's so close to the 28T or try a 32T because that seems to be the norm.
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    I went from the double to single on my ice cream truck, went with the 30T ring in the front, and then wondered if I should have gone 28T too, but honestly, I had the same problems with 30 front 36 back that I previously had with 24 front and 36 back. I might put a 42 cog in the back this year if I get around to it, because I impulsively bought one that Wolftooth had on sale. But it's not a high priority. The problems I still see are either trying to get started on glare ice where there's no traction, or trying to get started in deep snow or up a hill in snow. It's not that common but it's annoying, but I'm thinking getting better technique or strength might be the solution instead of changing out gears.

    So my conclusion is that for me, the simplicity of 1x10, staying at 11-36 was fine, no real compromises giving up the range I had with the 24T or whatever the Ice Cream Truck Ops had to begin with. I was worried about the lost gear range, and it took a little bit of courage to just give it a try doing what so many others are doing, and it worked.

  24. #24
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    Just went double to single on my 2017 Rockhopper. 34t up front, 11-36 in the rear. I mostly commute on trails and ride for fitness, nothing too technical, and up to the conversion I made myself stick to the 36t chainring to see if any of my usual rides require more. 99.5% of the time, the 22t was never even considered, and the other 0.5% of the time I just gut it out. It was a no-brainer for me to drop my front derailleur given what I do with the bike.

    Glad I did it, as I upgraded to a clutch, a NW chainring, and a Zee shifter that is quite a bit better than the OEM Altus shifters. YMMV.

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