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  1. #1
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    19 Pound 29er Build for $900

    I just finished my new build -- an aluminum Orbea Lanza 29er. Without pedals, it tips the scales at just a shade over 19 pounds. With the Crank Bros Eggbeater 2 pedals on, it's a little over 19.5. All components were either new or lightly used. Here's the spec list:

    Frame: Orbea Lanza 29er (Med) w/FSA headset
    Wheelset: Easton EA70 XCT
    Tires: S-Works Renegade (tubeless)
    Fork: SID RLT
    Crankset: XTR M960 with a "Jeff Jones style" modification
    Bottom Bracket: Shimano Saint
    Chainring: Wolf Tooth 34T
    Cassette: XT 9 Speed
    Stem: Titec Pluto Carbon
    Handlebar: Easton Carbon, decals removed
    Brake: SLX
    Shifter: Sram X0
    Grips: ESI Chunky
    Read Derailleur: Sram X9
    Chain: KMC X10sl
    Pedals: Eggbeater 2

    I'm sure you'll notice that I only put a brake on the front. I genuinely don't use a rear brake, and I enjoy the simple cockpit of having one shifter on the right and one brake on the left. It wasn't a weight weenie decision; if anything, I couldn't justify the cost of buying a brake I don't use. If I decide I miss it, I have no problem adding one. The total cost for the entire build was right around $900, not including the powder coat ($80). The original paint was fine, I was just particular about the color and like the logo-free look.
    Also, I'm well aware that I'm one spacer short on the steer tube. It's on the way.

    I'm hesitant to really put it through its paces until that last spacer gets here for fear of ovaling out the steer tube, but I simply HAD to ride it some. It's amazing. Better than I expected. It handles incredibly, turns on a dime and has the "twitchiness" that a lot of people associate with 26ers. The SID is of course an incredible fork, and I think the low rotational weight of the relatively light wheels and very light tires make the acceleration swift. I love this bike, and I'm glad I took the time to build it exactly as I wanted it.

    I know this sounds crazy, but I really am not a big weight weenie. I had around a grand to spend on a bike, and I was willing to look for good deals and be patient. To me, a weight weenie is someone who either 1) spends a large amount of money to save a marginal amount of weight, or 2) is willing to accept components of questionable durability or quality in the name of weight savings. I did neither on this bike. This is my main bike, and it was important to me that it was both durable and comfortable. So far, I feel as though I succeeded.

    Enjoy the pics, and please let me know if you spot an error on my part on the build. Also, let me know if you would like to know the part number or weight of a specific component -- I have all of that information on a spreadsheet.

    19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1979edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1974edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1968edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1969edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1970edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1971edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1972edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1973edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1975edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1976edited.jpg19 Pound 29er Build for 0-dsc_1980edited.jpg

  2. #2
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    Mods, could you please move this to the 29er bikes forum for me? I intended to post this there. Or the weight weenie forum....whichever is most appropriate.

    Thanks

  3. #3
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    This should probably be in the WW forum. Nice build for the money. I cant imagine riding with only 1 brake though.

  4. #4
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by moefosho View Post
    This should probably be in the WW forum. Nice build for the money. I cant imagine riding with only 1 brake though.
    For groomed trails, this should be ok. For "real world" trails I ride......no freaking way.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    For groomed trails, this should be ok. For "real world" trails I ride......no freaking way.
    I ride plenty of "real world" trails all the time, and I never use anything other than a front brake.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    For groomed trails, this should be ok. For "real world" trails I ride......no freaking way.
    This.

    I am a 90% front brake only rider myself. But going OTB on 10% of my trails because on back brake would get old pretty fast. lol

    That said - Looks super clean. I kinda dig it.

  7. #7
    Just A Mountain Biker.
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    Chain could possibly lose a couple links?
    26" isn't dead, it just got FAT



  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaklabl View Post
    Chain could possibly lose a couple links?
    I was debating that myself. I did the +2 rule, but I understand that rule isn't foolproof. I have a short cage derailleur on, so shifting is pretty snappy already, but I may take a link or two out.

    As for going endo when using the front brake: I believe it is a myth that a front brake on a hardtail is more likely to make you go endo. The reason is simply that weight shifts forward when braking whether you are using the front or rear brake. The frame's orientation to the back braking surface is constant in the absence of suspension compression, so it isn't as though the rear brake "holds you back." Whether you brake with the front or the back brake, the weight of the rider and bike shifts forward, compressing the front fork, which lowers the front end. The only difference between the two is that the front is more effective at braking, which intensifies this process. The answer isn't to use the less effective brake, but rather compensate for too much braking power by either feathering the brake or shifting weight back (or both). I agree that there is a natural tendency to want to hit the rear break when on a steep descent or when going over a drop or a technical downhill. The reality, however, is that the rear brake doesn't produce any less of an endo effect relative to the amount of stopping power it provides.

    Remember, if we assume there is no skidding or loss of traction, both wheels turn at the same speed. Slowing down the rear also slows down the front, and vice versa.

  9. #9
    Warrior's Society
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    Well we could all build light bikes if we started omitting part.
    I crashed hard enough on my Tallboy to break my leg,
    The carbon is way more durable than most people.

  10. #10
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    A steep loose downhill would have you on the ground.

  11. #11
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    Nice, light bike. Missing a rear brake and claiming a low weight in the title is a little misleading, eh?

    Those tires have too little tread and size for my taste, though.

    Enjoy the ride!
    If you're lucky enough to be in the mountains,
    you're lucky enough.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikej View Post
    Well we could all build light bikes if we started omitting part.
    Really? Every 29er would be sub-20 pounds if you took off a 400 gram rear brake? Get real. The rear brake was left off, as I said, because I do not use it and I enjoy the simplicity of the cockpit. I would have been just as happy with a 19.5 pound bike with two brakes if two brakes is what I wanted.

    Quote Originally Posted by azjonboy View Post
    Nice, light bike. Missing a rear brake and claiming a low weight in the title is a little misleading, eh?
    I don't think it's misleading. A rear brake would add about 400 grams. I doubt a lot of people thought one thing when they heard "19 pound 29er" but would have thought something different if they hear "19.5 pound 29er."

  13. #13
    R.I.P. DogFriend
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    S-Works Renegades? And no rear brake? ESI Chunky grips? SID fork? Legbeater pedals? X0 9 speed grip shifter? KMC super light chain?

    All on the same bike?

    Nothing wrong with that, but I'm pretty much convinced that you are indeed a 'weight-weenie'. I think you have actually been very consistently weight-weenie-ish in your overall spec which is a compliment. No sense in having anything be too substantial if the rest is decidedly 'WW-ish'.

    Be loud, be proud. Be who you are.

    That said, if you actually purchased everything there for <$900, you've done well and that is impressive.

    I wouldn't be able to push it hard where I ride, but if it works for you, that is what matters most.

  14. #14
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    For groomed trails, this should be ok. For "real world" trails I ride......no freaking way.
    No way, especially on groomed trails, if you try to take a turn fast the rear end will break traction and swing out. It's only ok if you are ok going slow around turns.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj View Post
    S-Works Renegades? And no rear brake? ESI Chunky grips? SID fork? Legbeater pedals? X0 9 speed grip shifter? KMC super light chain?

    All on the same bike?

    Nothing wrong with that, but I'm pretty much convinced that you are indeed a 'weight-weenie'. I think you have actually been very consistently weight-weenie-ish in your overall spec which is a compliment. No sense in having anything be too substantial if the rest is decidedly 'WW-ish'.

    Be loud, be proud. Be who you are.

    That said, if you actually purchased everything there for <$900, you've done well and that is impressive.

    I wouldn't be able to push it hard where I ride, but if it works for you, that is what matters most.
    Perhaps I have underestimated my own WWism. So far I love it, and I'm looking forward to the next XC season with it.

  16. #16
    Trail Prospector
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    Re: 19 Pound 29er Build for $900

    Quote Originally Posted by Wittgenstein's Ghost View Post
    Perhaps I have underestimated my own WWism. So far I love it, and I'm looking forward to the next XC season with it.
    Glad that you've come out of the closet to recognize your inner WW. For the $$, you did great.

    More power to you if able to ride without a rear brake. Had one malfunction during an afternoon ride on easy/moderate trails. Having such limited speed control was truly scary!
    The best is the one you want to ride most often..

  17. #17
    Rub it............
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    Needs more chain tension.

  18. #18
    Oh Yeah Baby
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    I wonder how light it would be as a singlespeed with a carbon rigid fork. I know the SID is fairly lightweight.

    The bike looks great you big ole weight-weenie !!!
    Misfit Psycles diSSent

  19. #19
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    I just had the misfortune of finishing the CTR 2014 on a front brake only for the last 70 miles. No way even the baddest trials riders could rip steep singletrack at full speed without the rear brake. The OP is just giving that up IMO. Not worth 400g- not even close. I almost quit the race it was so annoying to limit my own skills and putz around.

    And if you add renegades to no rear brake? Well you better be riding flat pave not a real trail or tech or forget about it you are crawling and flailing.

  20. #20
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    Funny, I literally just got back from riding a pretty tech trail with a lot of loose rock, baby heads, tight corners and quick downhills. Somehow I managed, and no point did I wish I had a rear brake. I will say that I live in Texas and ride a lot of twisty singletrack. I don't ride a lot of wide open trails that allow you to get to 20 MPH before needing to slow down into a curve. Acceleration is a huge priority for me, but our top end speed around here is probably lower than that of most Colorado riders.

    As I mentioned, forgoing the rear brake was not a weight decision. If I decide I miss it, I have no problem adding it.

  21. #21
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    Renegades and no rear brake, cute

  22. #22
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    So, I guess the front brake thing has sort of dominated discussion. That wasn't my intention. I'm surprised that so many on here dislike the Renegades, though. Why is that? It's not like they're Furious Freds. They are an XC tire, but they're a real tire. Like anything else, they need to be applied in the right situation, but to me they seem like a natural choice for an XC rig.

  23. #23
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    XT brakes + rotor are like a pound each if I remember right so if you add that he's at 20lbs for $900... for something that isn't full rigid and has gears that's still good IMO.

    My $5k road bike is in the 17lb range with pedals, full carbon full dura ace 9000 (11spd).

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    XT brakes + rotor are like a pound each if I remember right so if you add that he's at 20lbs for $900... for something that isn't full rigid and has gears that's still good IMO.

    My $5k road bike is in the 17lb range with pedals, full carbon full dura ace 9000 (11spd).
    Alias530,
    This is slightly off-topic, but is your road bike a 1x11? I assume so based on your wording. If so, how do you like it? What sort of terrain do you ride? I'm considering going 1x10 on my road bike, but it seems to be far less common than in the mtb scene.

    It's kind of funny, but my road bike probably weighs 22 pounds. It's a cheapo, but good steel....1986 Trek 330 Elance upgraded with some older Ultegra and Dura Ace plus some Shimano RS10 wheels. I don't race on the road, but I really enjoy riding it.

  25. #25
    I love Pisgah
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    I wouldn't sweat the tires. I personally did a solo 12 hour endurance race in 09 covering 126 tough singletrack miles, all on Furious Fred 2.2s. They rocked, finishing only 30 seconds behind 3rd(forget how many but it was a large field). Yes it was mostly dry. So what? They are STILL mounted and going strong on that same race wheelset(Olympics). If they do the job, they count in my book.
    "I've breathed the mtn air, man" Johnny Cash

    It's a long way to the top
    . . . if you wanna rock and roll (ac/dc)

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