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  1. #401
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    yeah i know that tst2 fork is heavy...i was just wondering about weight i am coming off of a d660 with white brothers fork and single speed and thats at 24lbs. just trying to get a idea if i go in this direction.

  2. #402
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    I got two rides in on a Yelli over the weekend (more to come once I have pics etc). Things I noticed right away compared to my 26'er steel hardtail with similar build & weight:
    The frame is pretty compliant for aluminum, and the big wheels take the edge off the small stuff anyways. The ride was smoother overall than my steel 26'er.
    The Yelli climbs WAY better than my steel 26'er. Mainly because the rear wheel never seems to lose traction, so you can turn bigger gears out of the saddle where a 26'er would spin out. Generally feels more efficient and faster without being harsher riding.
    WB bosses on the seat tube prevented me from being able to drop a 410 thomsen post more than 3-1/2" from climbing height. Still not ideal with a shorter post. This bike begs for a reverb (which will not fit the smaller seat tubes on steel frames). Ditch the seat tube WB bosses please Canfield!
    Otherwise I LOVED the bike. Will definitely be my go-to bike for AM/XC riding this season!

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by cSquared
    Any color requests for next run-
    Sales are kickin- and we are about to reorder soon.

    What we are planning is-
    Orange and Wasabi green- and of course more black.

    But I want a deep bright Grape ano too-
    crap!!!!!!! purple, orange.............. I'm gonna have to try and sell my black one.

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyatt79m
    crap!!!!!!! purple, orange.............. I'm gonna have to try and sell my black one.
    don't think that will be a problem....what size is it??

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by mellowme17
    yeah i know that tst2 fork is heavy...i was just wondering about weight i am coming off of a d660 with white brothers fork and single speed and thats at 24lbs. just trying to get a idea if i go in this direction.
    The medium frame is 4.5 lbs....so figure out your parts weight.

  6. #406
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    I plan on buying a medium later this week. I was wondering if someone could answer a few questions. I've only been biking a few years, and still have lots to learn.

    I'm currently on this bike http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...liff29team.htm and plan on using its components. Everything is the same as listed except the following:

    I replaced my front wheel with a stans flow rim and dt 240s hub
    I replaced the front rotor with a 185mm.
    Tires were replaced with Rampage 2.35
    I removed the largest sprocket and installed a bbg bashguard.

    Here are the things i'm not sure about.

    My current front derailleur won't work, so I'm thinking i'd like to try a 1x9 setup. Is there anything i'd need for this? I was thinking of adding another bbg bashguard in place of the smaller ring, but not sure if there's enough clearance. Seems like I might need something to keep the chain from falling off to the inside.

    My fork doesn't have a tapered tube. What headset do I need to make this work?

    I've read that some people needed spacers for their cranks to fit. Will any be required for the crank listed in the link?

    Looks like I'll need a different seat post and clamp. Open to suggestions for this.

    I appreciate any help I can get with this. Ready to order the frame, but want to have all the parts figured out first.

    Thanks

  7. #407
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    I was on a Cliff Pro last year and used the drivetrain and brakes for mine.
    Quote Originally Posted by coke
    My current front derailleur won't work, so I'm thinking i'd like to try a 1x9 setup. Is there anything i'd need for this? I was thinking of adding another bbg bashguard in place of the smaller ring, but not sure if there's enough clearance. Seems like I might need something to keep the chain from falling off to the inside.
    There's no reasonable way you'll fit an inner bash guard on this frame. If you look back through this thread you'll see some recommendations from Canfield. I'd also recommend you get a single speed chain ring. Unless you have your heart set on 1x9, picking up a direct mount derailleur was the cheapest way out: $40.

    Quote Originally Posted by coke
    My fork doesn't have a tapered tube. What headset do I need to make this work?
    Last post page 6
    Quote Originally Posted by coke
    I've read that some people needed spacers for their cranks to fit. Will any be required for the crank listed in the link?
    I can't say for sure as I'm not familiar with that crank. The Cliff has a 68mm BB shell and the Yelli has a 73. Most BB's come with spacers which are installed with the 68mm shell. You'll typically use either one or none in a 73mm, check the instructions for your crank. The only catch is that the chainstay is designed to be right up against a 32 tooth ring with a ~50mm chainline. If that crank has a different chainline or you're using a 34t ring you might need to space it over.

  8. #408
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    The only catch is that the chainstay is designed to be right up against a 32 tooth ring with a ~50mm chainline. If that crank has a different chainline or you're using a 34t ring you might need to space it over.
    You got me worried/confused now. Am I ok running xt cranks with ss 32t ring as 1x9? I know clearance is tight but will it be a problem (ride a lot in mud!)?

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clink
    You got me worried/confused now. Am I ok running xt cranks with ss 32t ring as 1x9? I know clearance is tight but will it be a problem (ride a lot in mud!)?
    Which XT's? There's a youtube video from Canfield showing the installation and explaining the reasoning behind it. The chainstay is meant to be close to the rings to prevent chain suck. It was designed around the current generation of outboard bearing BB's which run a ~50mm chainline. If you're running Hollowtech cranks and you're asking if the taller teeth on a single speed ring will clear, I'd say no problem.

    EDIT: Here's the video...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TFk88MeeIY
    Last edited by car_nut; 01-18-2011 at 01:40 PM.

  10. #410
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    Which XT's? There's a youtube video from Canfield showing the installation and explaining the reasoning behind it. The chainstay is meant to be close to the rings to prevent chain suck. It was designed around the current generation of outboard bearing BB's which run a ~50mm chainline. If you're running Hollowtech cranks and you're asking if the taller teeth on a single speed ring will clear, I'd say no problem.
    Yep Hollowtech II's

  11. #411
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    Thanks for the help car nut

  12. #412
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    Which headset would you guys recommend? There are 2 options from Cane Creek for the lower cup:

    XXc II (HSS2420K) - traditional lower cup
    XXc II Flush (HSS24030) - sit flush inside the head tube

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by alexkraemer; 01-18-2011 at 03:11 PM.

  13. #413
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    What fork are you running?

  14. #414
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    What fork are you running?
    I was gonna ask the same thing
    120mm fox talas with the external cup feels good to me, coming from a 26'er with a 68.5 HA.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer
    Which headset would you guys recommend? There are 2 options from Cane Creek for the lower cup:

    XXc II (HSS2420K) - traditional lower cup
    XXc II Flush (HSS24030) - sit flush inside the head tube

    Thoughts?
    I'm at 140mm with an external cup and it just feels right. I prefer slacker HA's though...YMMV.
    Extreme stationary biker.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by geolover
    I'm at 140mm with an external cup and it just feels right. I prefer slacker HA's though...YMMV.
    Wow. I thought mine looked like a chopper. Yours must roll over 20" logs without effort.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    What fork are you running?
    120mm Manitou Minute.

  18. #418
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    The reason I ask is that there is a $20 difference between the two headsets and I'm not that picky about HAs. Anything structurally different (longevity, stiffness, etc.) that would make me want to choose the traditional over the flush?

  19. #419
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    I found a cheap source for the upper assembly:
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...eadset+Oe.aspx

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by flymybike
    If you need a guide these are a couple great ones. Just ones that come to mind in 30 sec or less.
    From a post on page 6, these are both light and work great for a 1x9.

    About the chainline, let me explain more. There is two ways to prevent chainsuck. Make the space between the frame and rings more than 5mm or less than 5mm (the width of a chain). If it's less the chain can't get stuck between but the important thing is it gives more room for the tire and a thick yoke. If you leave enough room for the chain to easily fall through and come back out, the yoke is closer to the tire making a 2.2 tire tight (not acceptable). So we made it tight, this allows you to run all new mtb cranksets and have room for big tires. Some require 1 spacer on the driveside if your running larger than stock ring sizes but 95% work per manufactures mounting guidelines.

  21. #421
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    Just ordered the frame today to replace my aging KM.

    I will be running a straight steerer and this headset issue is driving me bonkers. Where are you guys buying the upper and lower HS parts from? I know what I need from the CC website (I want the 40 series parts), but can't find a source.

    Sorry if the answer ridiculously obvious, but I'm not finding it.

    -JLantz

  22. #422
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    Your LBS should be able to order it for you. I know BTI has a few in stock. I see in-stock (only angle sets) is 2 for a 1 1/8 and 1 for a tapered steerer. FYI- we are 44.0/49.6mm dimensions.

    I want to try this one, •ZS44-ZS49/30 fits: traditional tapered headtube with an 1-1/8" straight steerer, it's a kit with 3 angles to choice from.

    Edit: this fits too from BTI, Gravity SXE Tapered Reducer Headset
    This one:
    http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/store...roductid=99613

    This CB one might be right too, just not enough specs on there site.
    http://www.crankbrothers.com/directs...dine_taper.php
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...6&category=502

    This is what your looking for (I think, please guy's more info), call first to make sure!!!!!!
    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...6317.29.1.html
    Last edited by flymybike; 01-19-2011 at 02:32 AM.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by flymybike
    Your LBS should be able to order it for you. I know BTI has a few in stock. I see in-stock (only angle sets) is 2 for a 1 1/8 and 1 for a tapered steerer. FYI- we are 44.0/49.6mm dimensions.

    I want to try this one, •ZS44-ZS49/30 fits: traditional tapered headtube with an 1-1/8" straight steerer, it's a kit with 3 angles to choice from.

    this one is correct for straight steerers in the yelli
    Edit: this fits too from BTI, Gravity SXE Tapered Reducer Headset
    This one:
    http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/store...roductid=99613

    These all seem to be for tapered steerers. But the cane creek headsets are available in the "reducer" format
    This CB one might be right too, just not enough specs on there site.
    http://www.crankbrothers.com/directs...dine_taper.php
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...6&category=502

    This is what your looking for (I think, please guy's more info), call first to make sure!!!!!!
    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...6317.29.1.html

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLantz
    Just ordered the frame today to replace my aging KM.

    I will be running a straight steerer and this headset issue is driving me bonkers. Where are you guys buying the upper and lower HS parts from? I know what I need from the CC website (I want the 40 series parts), but can't find a source.

    Sorry if the answer ridiculously obvious, but I'm not finding it.

    -JLantz
    Jlantz - hang in there, the headset world is a freakin mess these days. This guide at Cane Creek simplified things nicely and explained things for me:
    http://www.canecreek.com/manuals/Hea...ationGuide.pdf

  25. #425
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    The Adrenaline Bikes link is the cheapest price that I've seen yet:
    http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/store...roductid=99613
    for those that are looking for the cheapest option...

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer
    Which headset would you guys recommend? There are 2 options from Cane Creek for the lower cup:

    XXc II (HSS2420K) - traditional lower cup
    XXc II Flush (HSS24030) - sit flush inside the head tube

    Thoughts?
    I have the same question. If you are going to use a non-tapered 1 1/8 steer tube fork on the YS, could you use the XXc II flush lower? Saves weight and dough. Fits traditional 1.5" HT (49.5mm is what I could find - cane creek's website is way dysfunctional). Any downsides besides potential downtube/adjuster knob ugliness?

    Alexkraemer, please keep us updated on how your Minute + YS marriage turns out. I m thinking along those lines also.
    Responds to gravity

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    I have the same question. If you are going to use a non-tapered 1 1/8 steer tube fork on the YS, could you use the XXc II flush lower?
    Yes, and you are correct, It is lighter due to less cup material and a smaller bearing. Lower stack height too.

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    Any downsides besides potential downtube/adjuster knob ugliness?

    Alexkraemer, please keep us updated on how your Minute + YS marriage turns out. I m thinking along those lines also.
    Buddhak - I hadn't thought about that. Looking at the fork, there's a 1/2 drop from the crown to the top of the knob, which coupled with the gusseted portion of the downtube, should clear without issues. I'll have all the parts by early next week so I'll post back then.

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    WB bosses on the seat tube prevented me from being able to drop a 410 thomsen post more than 3-1/2" from climbing height. Still not ideal with a shorter post. This bike begs for a reverb (which will not fit the smaller seat tubes on steel frames). Ditch the seat tube WB bosses please Canfield!
    Hey FM, if you back the ST WB bolts out, can your seatpost be dropped passed the bosses? If so, just get some precisely shorter bolts.

    I was stoked to see 3(!) sets of bosses on the frame, personally, and only hoped the threaded inserts didn't protrude into the ID of the ST.

  30. #430
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    Thanks, Dudes.

    Got it figured out and bought the CC HS uppers and lowers, among other parts needed, from Universal Cycles and ChainReaction.

    Mine is a tight-budget build: older 2x9 drivetrain, BB7's, wheels, and a couple of cockpit parts transfered from my KM. I went with the '10 Manitou Drake 120mm fork and am looking forward to finally having 31.8mm, wide bars.

    I can't wait for this ride to come together!

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLantz
    Hey FM, if you back the ST WB bolts out, can your seatpost be dropped passed the bosses? If so, just get some precisely shorter bolts.
    Yep, tried that out on the trail, no dice.

    The upper WB boss is only 8" down from the top of the seat tube on the medium frame. Figure 3" minimum seatpost insertion at full climbing height, that leaves only 5" drop before hitting the WB boss- and that's with the seatpost cut to min. length. There are times I would prefer more

    I wonder if the seat tube interior could be reamed/honed to remove the obstructions?

    Reverb + seatpost QR will be my "ghetto fix"

  32. #432
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    Another black ano just arrived in SoCal.

    Right on schedule my new Med. Black Ano YS arrived today, Thanks again to Chris and his great c.s. let the fun begin.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    I wonder if the seat tube interior could be reamed/honed to remove the obstructions?

    Reverb + seatpost QR will be my "ghetto fix"
    Damn! That means a ream of the ST by the LBS (add a $hop rate to the frame if you plan to slam your post), or the cheap fix of drilling out the inserts, which totally sucks for guys that ride with a ST water bottle mounted.

    A small detail, but a very annoying one. In the PNW, we want the ability to completely drop the saddle down to the TT.

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLantz
    Damn! That means a ream of the ST by the LBS (add a $hop rate to the frame if you plan to slam your post), or the cheap fix of drilling out the inserts, which totally sucks for guys that ride with a ST water bottle mounted.

    A small detail, but a very annoying one. In the PNW, we want the ability to completely drop the saddle down to the TT.
    Find an old Titec Scoper seatpost.

  35. #435
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    Just received mine - 4.5 lbs on the dot! Now if those pesky headset parts would arrive....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yelli Screamy  by Canfield ?-2011-01-20-12.33.36.jpg  


  36. #436
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    Just waiting on my lower headset, new crankset and wheels I'll post picks all built up with my old wheels if needs be. Their estimated arrival is Feb 1st:/

  37. #437
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    Got my upper headset today. I think Im ready to build!
    No moss...

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffw-13
    Got my upper headset today. I think Im ready to build!
    Lucky!

    Anybody else have weird issues with BBs and spacer? I've got Truvativ SS cranks so when I installed the BB I didn't use any washers, but there was a 2.5mm gap between the drive side and BB. Added a BB spacer and now everything works perfectly - weirdest thing.

  39. #439
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    My NOIRs were tight with no spacers but I want to run a chainguide so I decided to buy a set of SLX cranks. Anybody wanna a nice set of NOIR SS cranks and GXP BB??? lol I need my lower headset and then I could at least ride the thing a time or two before the new wheels/cranks show up. The wait is KILLING me!

  40. #440
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    Anybody wanna a nice set of NOIR SS cranks and GXP BB???
    I might be interested- hey question about the Noir's, are the tabs that the chainrings bolt to aluminum or carbon?

  41. #441
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    Aluminum. The non-drive crankarm bolt finally stripped out(I've had them for 2 years and removed them lots of times) and I've ordered a new one. If you're serious about wanting them, PM me and we'll figure something out

  42. #442
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    I've watched the BB youtube video, but it didn't get as technical as I had hoped.

    The YS has a 73mm BB, but the drive side shell has been relieved, I believe, in order to accept a BB mounted chainguide, and therefore, requires spacers for a non-chainguide setup. Is this correct?

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLantz
    I've watched the BB youtube video, but it didn't get as technical as I had hoped.

    The YS has a 73mm BB, but the drive side shell has been relieved, I believe, in order to accept a BB mounted chainguide, and therefore, requires spacers for a non-chainguide setup. Is this correct?
    I don't believe so. The allowance for a chainguide is the same as an E-type derailleur. If your BB is designed to accept an E-type, it will call for using a spacer when one isn't used. If your crank isn't designed to allow an E-type, then you can't use a guide with the Yelli.

    The Shimano BB for example calls for one spacer on the drive side if used in a 73mm shell with no guide/E-type. This is how I installed my LX cranks and everything went together as it should.

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    I don't believe so. The allowance for a chainguide is the same as an E-type derailleur. If your BB is designed to accept an E-type, it will call for using a spacer when one isn't used. If your crank isn't designed to allow an E-type, then you can't use a guide with the Yelli.

    The Shimano BB for example calls for one spacer on the drive side if used in a 73mm shell with no guide/E-type. This is how I installed my LX cranks and everything went together as it should.
    If I put the spacer on the non-drive side, the chainring didn't clear, so I thinking about replacing the 2.5mm spacer with Shimano's 1.8mm and 0.7mm BB spacers in order to bring the chainring a little big closer.

  45. #445
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    What style BB are you using? I looked up the Truvativ install instructions and was rather confused. Nearest I could tell, the GXP BB doesn't allow for an E-type/guide. They call for 2 spacers with a 68mm shell and none for a 73mm shell.

    When I was assembling mine I measured the bottom shell to be 72.96mm, so standard installation configs should get you what you need.

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer
    I thinking about replacing the 2.5mm spacer with Shimano's 1.8mm and 0.7mm BB spacers in order to bring the chainring a little big closer.
    Why?

    Think you'll notice the 0.7mm difference? Thats like , what, less than 1/32".

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by perttime
    Why?

    Think you'll notice the 0.7mm difference? Thats like , what, less than 1/32".
    Just to bring the chainring closer to the frame. Probably not necessary, but I want to do some more tinkering with BB spacers to figure out why the crank doesn't install properly without an extra BB spacer.

  48. #448
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    I think Truvative has a different chain line than the Shimano 50 it was designed around. Wasn't this talked about a few pages back?

  49. #449
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    The Truvativ has a ~51mm chainline vs the Shimano 50mm. I'm more curious about why he needs spacers in the BB. The Truvativ docs are pretty generic, but what I found calls for no spacers in a 73mm shell.

  50. #450
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    For the obsessive compulsive...

    So I'm not usually one to care about such things as scratches on a mountain bike. But, with winter boredom in full swing, I thought I'd look into some helicopter tape. Unfortunately I only found two options for matching an anodized frame. One was the actual 3m matte helicopter tape, which I could only find in quantities costing more than the frame itself. The other was from this seller in the UK: http://cgi.ebay.com/MATTE-Helicopter...ht_3091wt_1139

    I ordered a roll and cut some up to cover cable rub spots. I applied it using soapy water(the instructions call for dry) and it just about disappears. I can't speak for longevity yet and this stuff is certainly not actual helicopter tape. It is a bit thinner and I would guess not as resilient. But, it was cheap and I think it will serve its purpose.

  51. #451
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    Headset arrives today! LBS better have my seatpost shim...
    And I just called - it won't be here until Monday/Tuesday!. I'll just have to ride it trials style until then...
    Last edited by alexkraemer; 01-21-2011 at 11:48 AM.

  52. #452
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    Ouch!

    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer
    I'll just have to ride it trials style until then...
    Haha! "Watch out fer yer cornhole buddy." ~ Diedrich Bader - Office Space

    I know the feeling, I have a RS Reverb post on backorder... it's holding up the show. With any luck I'll be putting the rubber to the dirt in about 2 weeks.
    "America is all about speed... Hot, nasty, badass speed!!!"
    -Eleanor Roosevelt, 1936

  53. #453
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    Ten pages.

    452 posts.

    ~29,500 views.

    I count six complete bikes.

    It must be winter
    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    And I thought I had a bike obsession. You are at once tragic and awesome.

  54. #454
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    I think we need an official Canfield Forum

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    I think we need an official Canfield Forum
    For all 6...I got one...so make that 7 bikes?

  56. #456
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    Just placed an order for a medium black.

    Question:

    Does anyone know if there will be any issues running a MRP 1x guide and a gxp bb? The manual says to use no spacers, so not sure how this will work.

  57. #457
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    Hmmmm....maybe there is a need for a Canfield B/B Forum

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel
    Ten pages.

    452 posts.

    ~29,500 views.

    I count six complete bikes.

    It must be winter

    It's been snowing every third day here and I need a diversion. I can't drink at work, so thread is my only option

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enel
    Ten pages.

    452 posts.

    ~29,500 views.

    I count six complete bikes.

    It must be winter
    haha, indeed.

    Quote Originally Posted by coke
    Question:

    Does anyone know if there will be any issues running a MRP 1x guide and a gxp bb? The manual says to use no spacers, so not sure how this will work.
    Coke - I know this sounds crazy and contradicts everything I've read about the GXP stuff, but running GXP with a 2.5mm spacer (or any other BB mounted gadget) seems to work fine. When you get your frame install the crank and see if it works with a washer. If so, you're good to go. I must have a weird set of cranks.

  60. #460
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    My frame showed up on Wednesday. Yea.

  61. #461
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    MRP just told me that the new D-mount 1x9 guide is coming out soon.
    Can't wait- got one on order for my new Large-

    New Marz- Micro Ti 120 fork-
    Got Chris kings with Edge hoops-
    29" flat Edge Bar-(thanks Mitch Ropelato)
    Got the new 12-36t 9 speed cassette from shimano to run in the back.
    Can't wait.

    I'll post up some picks when it's done-
    C2

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by cSquared


    Got the new 12-36t 9 speed cassette from shimano to run in the back.

    I just ordered one.

    For about the past month, I've only been using my middle ring to see how 1x9 would work for me. It was fine for everything but a couple hills. I'm thinking with 12-36, I can handle just about anything.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by coke
    Just placed an order for a medium black.

    Question:

    Does anyone know if there will be any issues running a MRP 1x guide and a gxp bb? The manual says to use no spacers, so not sure how this will work.
    It is possible you may get it to work, but if it doesn't immediately break the non-drive side bearing it'll wear out prematurely...speaking from my own personal experiences.
    Extreme stationary biker.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    I think we need an official Canfield Forum
    Ya one with just pictures and info and not people UPS status.
    Enjoy every ride!

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by cSquared
    MRP just told me that the new D-mount 1x9 guide is coming out soon.
    This thing will be a godsend to all the Truvativ users! Due to the odd seattube angle, the seattube mount type won't work and the Truvativ BB cups are a no go with BB style guides The only option out there that will work, that I'm aware of, is the Paul's chainguide but it's too pricey and doesn't fit the personality of the bike.

    Are there pics on the web anywhere of the MRP D-mount guide?

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    I think we need an official Canfield Forum
    I think the Custom DH/FR/Urban forum is the default Canfield forum

    http://forums.mtbr.com/custom-dh-fr-urban-builders/
    No moss...

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    This thing will be a godsend to all the Truvativ users! Due to the odd seattube angle, the seattube mount type won't work and the Truvativ BB cups are a no go with BB style guides The only option out there that will work, that I'm aware of, is the Paul's chainguide but it's too pricey and doesn't fit the personality of the bike.

    Are there pics on the web anywhere of the MRP D-mount guide?

    Jenson has them in stock: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+1X+Guide.aspx

    Click on seat tube mount.


    edit: Oops! you said D mount.....sorry!
    Enjoy every ride!

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by coke
    Just placed an order for a medium black.

    Question:

    Does anyone know if there will be any issues running a MRP 1x guide and a gxp bb? The manual says to use no spacers, so not sure how this will work.
    Technically it wont work, you need a shimano/raceface BB/Crank to run the MRP. If you want to get creative, use a BB facing tool to remove 2.5mm of BB shell on the drive side. That should allow you to use the MRP with the GXP BB. Before you go cutting your frame I would take a couple measurements to ensure there are no other issues with the MRP fitting.

  69. #469
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    Thanks for the help.

    I went ahead and ordered the mrp 1x. I had a big list of other things I needed to order and decided to give it a try. I'm thinking that if it doesn't work, I'll try filing it down some.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by coke
    Thanks for the help.

    I went ahead and ordered the mrp 1x. I had a big list of other things I needed to order and decided to give it a try. I'm thinking that if it doesn't work, I'll try filing it down some.
    I ordered one of these:
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Crankset.aspx
    Extreme stationary biker.

  71. #471
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    I have a noob question about a fork, I found a deal on a 2010 Fox 32 F29 RLC but it has a 53mm Crown offset (Fisher G2) What exactly does that mean and would it work on my YS ? Thanks

  72. #472
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    It means the crown protrudes a few mm further forward than a "normal" fork. A typical fork has around 46mm of offset. It would make your wheelbase slightly longer and theoretically slow down your handling. It will work fine on your bike but I wouldn't call it ideal.

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    It means the crown protrudes a few mm further forward than a "normal" fork. A typical fork has around 46mm of offset. It would make your wheelbase slightly longer and theoretically slow down your handling. It will work fine on your bike but I wouldn't call it ideal.
    Cool thanks for the explanation and i think i will pass it also was 9mm qr and i found a RockShox RLT Ti with 20mm t/a almost new that i think i will buy instead for the same price.

  74. #474
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    I think a TA is a MUST for this bike Go big or go home!

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    It means the crown protrudes a few mm further forward than a "normal" fork. A typical fork has around 46mm of offset. It would make your wheelbase slightly longer and theoretically slow down your handling. It will work fine on your bike but I wouldn't call it ideal.
    Actually, increasing the fork offset will speed up the handling, not slow it down.

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    I think a TA is a MUST for this bike Go big or go home!

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by whydomylegshurt?
    Actually, increasing the fork offset will speed up the handling, not slow it down.
    That's right.

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by whydomylegshurt?
    Actually, increasing the fork offset will speed up the handling, not slow it down.
    Or...it might not be noticeable at all.
    I have tried the regular F29 and a G2 F29 on several bikes......it's a little....and I mean VERY little different.You will notice a bigger difference in a change in air pressure/sag than the off set.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    Go big or go home!
    Going along with your theme...2.4 Spec Purgatory on Flows. Unfortunately this is the extent of what I got done so far this weekend.

    No moss...

  80. #480
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    I'm going to run Semis and Ardent 2.4 Gonna try a Bontrager FR3 out front for a while first.

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffw-13
    Going along with your theme...2.4 Spec Purgatory on Flows. Unfortunately this is the extent of what I got done so far this weekend.

    Did you mount that tubeless? How'd it mount up??? Easy-peasy?
    Extreme stationary biker.

  82. #482
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    Im ashamed to say I stuck a tube in there for now. Too cold out in the garage to mess with sealant and too messy to bring it in the house. The Purgatory is "tubeless ready" and was a ***** to stretch over the rim so I'm guessing it will work fine tubeless when I'm ready to go there.
    No moss...

  83. #483
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    Buddhak - here's what the flush mount (XXc II Flush) looks like. I had a b**** of a time getting the cups to go in straight with my home-made headset press. No issues with clearance and I like the way the bike handles thus far. I've only gone around my block, but so far I'm in love with the handling. Hope to get a ride in when the weather makes up its mind (dry up or freeze up - this mud is driving me nuts!)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yelli Screamy  by Canfield ?-2011-01-22-16.53.29.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffw-13
    Im ashamed to say I stuck a tube in there for now. Too cold out in the garage to mess with sealant and too messy to bring it in the house. The Purgatory is "tubeless ready" and was a ***** to stretch over the rim so I'm guessing it will work fine tubeless when I'm ready to go there.
    If you wanna give it a try the control casing tires should air up with a floor pump and hold pressure without sealant. Push down on the tire in the area of the valve stem during the first few pumps.

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer
    Buddhak - here's what the flush mount (XXc II Flush) looks like.......
    You had the camera out and posted pic's but none of the whole bike? Come on man, show the goods!

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli
    If you wanna give it a try the control casing tires should air up with a floor pump and hold pressure without sealant. Push down on the tire in the area of the valve stem during the first few pumps.

    Thanks I might give it a go.
    No moss...

  87. #487
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    i didn't want to get busted by the seatpost, hose length, or cable routing police! I'll have pics after the first ride next week.

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer
    i didn't want to get busted by the seatpost, hose length, or cable routing police! I'll have pics after the first ride next week.
    Don't forget the "rimstickers aren't aligned with the tyre"-police....

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gepruts
    Don't forget the "rimstickers aren't aligned with the tyre"-police....

    *raises hand* See my pic above. I'm anal like that
    No moss...

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer
    i didn't want to get busted by the seatpost, hose length, or cable routing police! I'll have pics after the first ride next week.
    Nah. Nothing but love in this thread. All Yellis are good Yellis

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by DFYFZX
    I think a TA is a MUST for this bike Go big or go home!
    is a 20mm that much stiffer than a qr?

    by the way how does this bike fly?

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by mellowme17
    is a 20mm that much stiffer than a qr?
    Yes. The more travel you run, 120mm range for this bike, the more of a necessity it becomes

    Quote Originally Posted by mellowme17
    by the way how does this bike fly?
    You'll have to ask someone else. I'm not a jumper...

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by mellowme17
    by the way how does this bike fly?
    I'm thinking one of the Canfield Bothers would be most qualified to answer this. I'm guessing the answer to be "quite well".

  94. #494
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    Ride #3

    Nice long singletrack climb up to a skills park today, where I hit some jump lines and wood features. Still some loaner parts from my 26" hardtail... XO brakes and a reverb on the way eventually. Fork was locked down for most of these photos.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/5383118965/" title="IMG_0074 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5383118965_79bb89c7d1_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0074" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/5383119407/" title="IMG_0079 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5383119407_7e4cbe80bd_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0079" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/5383722434/" title="IMG_0056 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5044/5383722434_5052e57340_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0056" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/5383722712/" title="IMG_0059 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5245/5383722712_14d239d822_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0059" /></a>

    12-36 9-spd cassette- 36t cog from eBay seller MTBtools
    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/5383722926/" title="IMG_0062 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5383722926_b13ec44874_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0062" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/5383723870/" title="IMG_0076 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5383723870_749b97908c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0076" /></a>

    30t/104bcd non-ramped SS/1x ring by Andersen Machine Works. Works great, cool design. You have to bevel the tabs on the crank spider slightly inwards to clear the chain.
    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/5383118443/" title="IMG_0064 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5206/5383118443_5d2f8db2b3_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0064" /></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/5383723464/" title="IMG_0071 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5127/5383723464_579191a176_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_0071" /></a>

    Super fun bike to ride.
    Compared to my 26" AM hardtail, it's like going from a Lotus Elise to Corvette
    Both feel great in different ways.
    The Yelli is definitely much easier on long rides and climbs better, just generally more efficient. Surprisingly, log rides and skinnies are also easier on the big wheels. So far, doesn't feel as flickable as the 26'er on jump lines or on tight switchbacks, but definitely very capable. Corners great at speed too. I notice some adjustment in cornering technique is helping, I am over the front more, steering less and leaning more.
    1x9 with the 30/36 climbing gear feels like it will be perfect for summer epic rides here. The stiff back end with the thru-axle, wide bars and light weight feel great for climbing out of the saddle.

    I likey!
    Last edited by FM; 01-23-2011 at 11:04 PM.

  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    30t/104bcd non-ramped SS/1x ring by Andersen Machine Works. Works great, cool design. You have to bevel the tabs on the crank spider slightly inwards to clear the chain.
    WTF?!

    No mention of the non-ramped version on the website!....so I ordered the ramped version.

    Oil well (oh well ) I guess I'll just have to make do.

    PS - Nice lookin' bike you got yourself there. Looks moist down there too.
    Extreme stationary biker.

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    Nice long singletrack climb up to a skills park today, where I hit some jump lines and wood features. ..........
    I likey!
    Very nice! So I'm guessing you ended up buying one? It sounded like you were borrowing it from your other post.

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexkraemer
    Buddhak - here's what the flush mount (XXc II Flush) looks like.
    Thank you, brother. I had a Minute in mind until I impulse-bid on a black Reba Team. Looks like I am going with a tapered fork. CFO was not amused. Man gotta do...

    By the way, FM, your YS is so dope I suffered a small seizure looking at the pics. Well done. Now that funds are depleted, my unit will beat up my Karate Monkey and steal all of its components. Right down to the 14 year old compact Deore LX cranks.
    Responds to gravity

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddhak
    Thank you, brother. I had a Minute in mind until I impulse-bid on a black Reba Team. Looks like I am going with a tapered fork. CFO was not amused. Man gotta do...

    Probably the same one I was bidding on. Settled on plan B - a like new Marzocchi 44 Micro ti tapered for $250 shipped
    No moss...

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    Very nice! So I'm guessing you ended up buying one? It sounded like you were borrowing it from your other post.
    Thanks guys. Yeah she's mine, came across the right deal at the right time.
    Really looking forward to getting 'er up into the cascades & chelan sawtooths this summer

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by geolover
    WTF?!

    No mention of the non-ramped version on the website!....so I ordered the ramped version.

    Oil well (oh well ) I guess I'll just have to make do.

    PS - Nice lookin' bike you got yourself there. Looks moist down there too.
    E-mail Russell and tell him what you want. I asked specifically for a SS version and it's awesome because it's spaced slightly inboard (better chain clearance from cranks).

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