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  1. #1
    247
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    XT Brakes Question (need answers)

    So i am posting here (because my other post got no answers to my question yet--AND I am about to Pull the Trigger on a pair of these...


    XT brakes? which ones to get?

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I have read here in another thread that BLUESKY has them at a good price.

    I am going to replace my 'Turkey Gobble' sounding Elixer R's and have only read about good things for XT brakes..

    I am a Cylde (225) with a TREK Superfly... and i see the 775, 785, and 785 ICE.

    --dont know a lot about brakes. I see that the 'lower number' in this series has Twice-the-Price (MSRP) of the higher number (on BLUESKY.) Any suggesstions in which ones to get???

    ALSO, i have X-9 shifters and just read that they DO NOT fit flush under them??

    Does that mean they are loose or Shake??

  2. #2
    Uncle
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    I use 775s, which are the 1 generation older than their latest and greatest 785s. Shimano brakes in general just work well - pretty much any model and year at least back to 2006. Can't really go wrong. The 775s (and most other earlier models - SLX, XTR, etc) can be bled without special tools. The newer generation brakes require a special funnel to get fluid into the master cylinder. In my book that's not a deal breaker, but just an added concern for if/when I buy a newer set. I have heard from friends that have owned both, that the newer version 785s also perform better than the 775s - more overall power, I believe is what they're experiencing. I've not ridden the newer model, so I can't confirm this claim. I'd say get the newer ones if you're buying either brand new.

    As for the ICE-tech stuff: I can't comment either way.
    Eat, ride, eat, rest, repeat.

  3. #3
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    There is also two other options-- The SLX is nearly identical sometimes at a savings. The levers are short, but a trail version of the XT is available with longer levers. It is listed on the German site bikecomponents.de. Cost with shipping is about 206. The site has good prices on Schwalbe tires and other components. The front brake is very powerful, so a longer lever may help you to modulate it.
    The levers won't integrate with your shifters. You can make them as tight as you want.

  4. #4
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    I have XT 785 w the ice-tech fins and ice tech rotors on my giant anthem - replaced the elixir cr's that come on that bike - best upgrade! worked from day 1 and provide 1 finger breaking - power and feel is superior and have never made a noise - like everyone states - they work!

    I also am now on a new bike that came specd with 2013 SLX - basically - xt/xtr tech has flowed down - im guessing they are last years xt equivalent. I cant tell a difference btw the new slx and 2012 xt - same 1 finger power and feel.

    ice tech refers the the extra cooling fins designed to provide some better airflow and cooling to the pads. also - the ice tech rotors are a steel/alum sandwhich construction designed to run cooler than the standard steel rotors

    all i can say is both the SLX and XT stuff is phenom and there are some great deals out there right now on both - 110-130 per set - pre bled and complete (not rotors) -

    I ride a lot of trail/all mt terrain in CO - and rode the entire kokapelli with the xt's freshly mounted - worked immediately and perfectly - no heat fade I could notice on porcupine dh the final day as well

  5. #5
    247
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    Thanks all.. I think I will go with the 775's (its all I need)-----but wonder why the MSRP was higher on the 'lower' model (on BlueSky)--

    ALSO does anyone know if I am running X-9 trigger's if they will move any when braking?

    I just read a post that said they are not flush when using SRAM shifters.. But does that mean they slightly move??


  6. #6
    Axe
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    2012 ХТ. Finned pads, yes. I did not notice much difference with ice-tech rotors (have both kinds - RT76 and RT86 on two bikes). Works with other rotors as well. They are notably better than previous model, and easier to bleed.

    2013 SLX are pretty much the same.

    I guess you would need a 29er version, that I do not know about.

    Bought mine here: Sets, Disc Brakes, Bremsen, Komponenten $180 for a pair of SLX with finned pads.

  7. #7
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    Go with the 785 those are The new generation. The ones that get all The good reviews and everyone loves. (Not The 775).

  8. #8
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    Double post
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  9. #9
    Is this thing on?
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    Quote Originally Posted by 247 View Post
    Thanks all.. I think I will go with the 775's (its all I need)-----but wonder why the MSRP was higher on the 'lower' model (on BlueSky)--

    ALSO does anyone know if I am running X-9 trigger's if they will move any when braking?

    I just read a post that said they are not flush when using SRAM shifters.. But does that mean they slightly move??

    I'm running 785s with X-9 shifters and they work fine together. By not flush they mean the two don't fit as close together on the handlebars as the Elixer Rs and X-9s do. I never noticed it being a problem. The flush fit has nothing to do with them moving while braking.

  10. #10
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    Shimano disc brakes | Merlin Cycles
    Ships from uk but great prices on their brakes. I ordered the 780's for around $180 and when opened the box they were 785's. Good price turned to a great price.
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  11. #11
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    What they mean about the shifter not fitting is that you have to rotate them down a little, so the position of the triggers may feel weird.

  12. #12
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    Fitting issue is that the housing of the shifter hits the housing of the master cylinder. You'll have to rotate the shifter down a little (if that makes sense). It won't be loose, just in a different position that you may want.

  13. #13
    Now broadcasting from CO
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    Same brake/shifter. I'm running the brakes on the outside of the shifters. No interference issues...
    Brought to you by rocks.

  14. #14
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    785 is infinitely better than 775. I own both.

  15. #15
    beater
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    As others have said, I can't see any reason not to go with the 785s. They're fantastic.

    I'm another one with 785s and X9 shifters. It works fine; they just don't mesh together by design the way that some brake-shifter combinations do.

    XT Brakes Question (need answers)-img_2777.jpg
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  16. #16
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    I have a set of front and rear XT M775 brakes for sale in the classifieds...even have rotors to go with them if needed.

  17. #17
    247
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    Thanks everyone (and those on Classified)--but I will now go with the 785 instead...

    I did not even know there was a 780 (that is how much I know about XT brakes)---

  18. #18
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    Finned XT Trail W/Ice tech. the way to go. I got my rotors from Blue Sky shipped for $96 (180/160), I have seen the XT trail from $99-169 a piece. I got mine for $109 a side installed at the LBS with rotors. I also got XT shifters installed at the same time. Best upgrade for my money. If you can get them for a good price they work great.

    Mark
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  19. #19
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    XT 785 Ice-tech fins. Ice-tech rotors. They waterski on rattlesnakes while eating a bible.

  20. #20
    Nox Trailbuilder
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    Just ordered the 785's from Chain Reaction, $213.80 for the pair, + $66.79 for a pair of RT76 180mm/160mm rotors = $279.59 for all. Subtract their $50 'deal' and they're $229.59 for everything....I couldn't find a better deal.
    They're coming from Ireland, wonder how long that will take? They are 'euro spec'....left rear and right front, so hoses need to be swapped.
    The unbeatable price on the rotors and the free shipping/no tax made it a sweet deal.
    I'm combining these with X.9 shifters. Fit to be determined later....
    Tough to find front AND rear sets in stock..... lots of fronts, not many rears.

  21. #21
    ballbuster
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    As much of a fan as I am of Shimano brakes, if you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    As much of a fan as I am of Shimano brakes, if you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.
    I dunno man. It's usually the pads that suck. I believe one big problem that Avid has is that their pad compounds are lower quality, harder to bed in, and noisier. And the surface of a new avid pad has a rough finish that beds in poorly, leading to a lot more squeak than Shimano pads which come with a very smooth, clean and flat surface.


    Swapping/trimming hoses is easy. It doesn't require a bleed, although you should get the bleed funnel/kit, it's very cheap. And some oil, and they'll be there when you need it.

    Shimano includes an extra olive and insert for the line, and a hose vise which is just two pieces of plastic you can use to clamp the hose in a vise or vise grips to cut it. You should use a new olive if you're putting the hose into a different receptacle, even if you don't trim its length.

    All you need is an 8mm open end wrench for the hose nut and a 2mm hex wrench to crack the bleed screw open. You also need a sharp knife to cut the line and something to clamp the hose vise with.

    Start by removing the pads and then pumping the lever so the pistons extend part ways out from their bores. What you are doing is increasing the fluid volume in the caliper, so that later, you can push out the air you will introduce into the line back through the master cylinder when you push the pistons back in.

    Then unscrew the hose nut from the lever and pull the hose out. Figure out how long you want the hose and then clamp it in the hose vise and cut it off square. Push the new insert in. Then, make sure the boot then nut are still on the line and slide on a new olive. Route the hose through your other cables and shove it in the correct lever, and screw the nut in. Then, get a rag ready to wipe oil, and unscrew the lever bleed screw. Use a tool like a tire lever to push the pistons back in flush with the caliper. Oil and air may drip out of the bleed port. When you've got the pistons back in, put the bleed screw and pads back in, and you should be done. Check for firm lever action with the wheel in. In the shop I often just stick a cone wrench in there as a stand in for the rotor.

  23. #23
    Nox Trailbuilder
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanik View Post
    Swapping/trimming hoses is easy. .......
    Thanks for the how-to

  24. #24
    MTB B'dos
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    I'd give the nod to getting the new XTs, definitely worthwhile upgrade over the older 775s. I just got some, well actually only got the front from a shipping mistake and installed that and it's absolutely superb compared to the Stroker Trail it replaced, loads more power, better adjustment and quiet as a mouse. I also went for the older RT76 rotors since it seemed that most said the newer Ice Tech RT86 rotors were only really noticeable on really long descents and we have none of those here.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  25. #25
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    What rotor kills the turkey?

    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    If you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.
    What brand rotor do you suggest to rid us of the dreaded turkey gobble? I have a set of Elixer 3's that are about ready to get replaced, but if a rotor fix will do the trick, I'm all ears...

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