Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 73
  1. #1
    247
    247 is offline
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1,333

    XT Brakes Question (need answers)

    So i am posting here (because my other post got no answers to my question yet--AND I am about to Pull the Trigger on a pair of these...


    XT brakes? which ones to get?

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I have read here in another thread that BLUESKY has them at a good price.

    I am going to replace my 'Turkey Gobble' sounding Elixer R's and have only read about good things for XT brakes..

    I am a Cylde (225) with a TREK Superfly... and i see the 775, 785, and 785 ICE.

    --dont know a lot about brakes. I see that the 'lower number' in this series has Twice-the-Price (MSRP) of the higher number (on BLUESKY.) Any suggesstions in which ones to get???

    ALSO, i have X-9 shifters and just read that they DO NOT fit flush under them??

    Does that mean they are loose or Shake??

  2. #2
    Uncle
    Reputation: Entrenador's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,951
    I use 775s, which are the 1 generation older than their latest and greatest 785s. Shimano brakes in general just work well - pretty much any model and year at least back to 2006. Can't really go wrong. The 775s (and most other earlier models - SLX, XTR, etc) can be bled without special tools. The newer generation brakes require a special funnel to get fluid into the master cylinder. In my book that's not a deal breaker, but just an added concern for if/when I buy a newer set. I have heard from friends that have owned both, that the newer version 785s also perform better than the 775s - more overall power, I believe is what they're experiencing. I've not ridden the newer model, so I can't confirm this claim. I'd say get the newer ones if you're buying either brand new.

    As for the ICE-tech stuff: I can't comment either way.
    Great prices - some sweet vintage stuff: http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showprod...product=101010

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    9,725
    There is also two other options-- The SLX is nearly identical sometimes at a savings. The levers are short, but a trail version of the XT is available with longer levers. It is listed on the German site bikecomponents.de. Cost with shipping is about 206. The site has good prices on Schwalbe tires and other components. The front brake is very powerful, so a longer lever may help you to modulate it.
    The levers won't integrate with your shifters. You can make them as tight as you want.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    779
    I have XT 785 w the ice-tech fins and ice tech rotors on my giant anthem - replaced the elixir cr's that come on that bike - best upgrade! worked from day 1 and provide 1 finger breaking - power and feel is superior and have never made a noise - like everyone states - they work!

    I also am now on a new bike that came specd with 2013 SLX - basically - xt/xtr tech has flowed down - im guessing they are last years xt equivalent. I cant tell a difference btw the new slx and 2012 xt - same 1 finger power and feel.

    ice tech refers the the extra cooling fins designed to provide some better airflow and cooling to the pads. also - the ice tech rotors are a steel/alum sandwhich construction designed to run cooler than the standard steel rotors

    all i can say is both the SLX and XT stuff is phenom and there are some great deals out there right now on both - 110-130 per set - pre bled and complete (not rotors) -

    I ride a lot of trail/all mt terrain in CO - and rode the entire kokapelli with the xt's freshly mounted - worked immediately and perfectly - no heat fade I could notice on porcupine dh the final day as well

  5. #5
    247
    247 is offline
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1,333
    Thanks all.. I think I will go with the 775's (its all I need)-----but wonder why the MSRP was higher on the 'lower' model (on BlueSky)--

    ALSO does anyone know if I am running X-9 trigger's if they will move any when braking?

    I just read a post that said they are not flush when using SRAM shifters.. But does that mean they slightly move??


  6. #6
    Axe
    Axe is offline
    Custom User Title
    Reputation: Axe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,939
    2012 ХТ. Finned pads, yes. I did not notice much difference with ice-tech rotors (have both kinds - RT76 and RT86 on two bikes). Works with other rotors as well. They are notably better than previous model, and easier to bleed.

    2013 SLX are pretty much the same.

    I guess you would need a 29er version, that I do not know about.

    Bought mine here: Sets, Disc Brakes, Bremsen, Komponenten $180 for a pair of SLX with finned pads.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carlosmontiel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    102
    Go with the 785 those are The new generation. The ones that get all The good reviews and everyone loves. (Not The 775).

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,023
    Double post
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  9. #9
    Is this thing on?
    Reputation: Froride1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    552
    Quote Originally Posted by 247 View Post
    Thanks all.. I think I will go with the 775's (its all I need)-----but wonder why the MSRP was higher on the 'lower' model (on BlueSky)--

    ALSO does anyone know if I am running X-9 trigger's if they will move any when braking?

    I just read a post that said they are not flush when using SRAM shifters.. But does that mean they slightly move??

    I'm running 785s with X-9 shifters and they work fine together. By not flush they mean the two don't fit as close together on the handlebars as the Elixer Rs and X-9s do. I never noticed it being a problem. The flush fit has nothing to do with them moving while braking.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,023
    Shimano disc brakes | Merlin Cycles
    Ships from uk but great prices on their brakes. I ordered the 780's for around $180 and when opened the box they were 785's. Good price turned to a great price.
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dnlwthrn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,255
    What they mean about the shifter not fitting is that you have to rotate them down a little, so the position of the triggers may feel weird.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dnlwthrn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,255
    Fitting issue is that the housing of the shifter hits the housing of the master cylinder. You'll have to rotate the shifter down a little (if that makes sense). It won't be loose, just in a different position that you may want.

  13. #13
    Now broadcasting from CO
    Reputation: PAmtbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,224
    Same brake/shifter. I'm running the brakes on the outside of the shifters. No interference issues...
    Brought to you by rocks.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    278
    785 is infinitely better than 775. I own both.

  15. #15
    beater
    Reputation: evasive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    4,634
    As others have said, I can't see any reason not to go with the 785s. They're fantastic.

    I'm another one with 785s and X9 shifters. It works fine; they just don't mesh together by design the way that some brake-shifter combinations do.

    XT Brakes Question (need answers)-img_2777.jpg
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

    Riding in Helena? Everything you need to know, right here.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    250
    I have a set of front and rear XT M775 brakes for sale in the classifieds...even have rotors to go with them if needed.

  17. #17
    247
    247 is offline
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1,333
    Thanks everyone (and those on Classified)--but I will now go with the 785 instead...

    I did not even know there was a 780 (that is how much I know about XT brakes)---

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: millertm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    461
    Finned XT Trail W/Ice tech. the way to go. I got my rotors from Blue Sky shipped for $96 (180/160), I have seen the XT trail from $99-169 a piece. I got mine for $109 a side installed at the LBS with rotors. I also got XT shifters installed at the same time. Best upgrade for my money. If you can get them for a good price they work great.

    Mark
    2012 XXL Carve Expert

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    133
    XT 785 Ice-tech fins. Ice-tech rotors. They waterski on rattlesnakes while eating a bible.

  20. #20
    Nox Trailbuilder
    Reputation: Retlaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    56
    Just ordered the 785's from Chain Reaction, $213.80 for the pair, + $66.79 for a pair of RT76 180mm/160mm rotors = $279.59 for all. Subtract their $50 'deal' and they're $229.59 for everything....I couldn't find a better deal.
    They're coming from Ireland, wonder how long that will take? They are 'euro spec'....left rear and right front, so hoses need to be swapped.
    The unbeatable price on the rotors and the free shipping/no tax made it a sweet deal.
    I'm combining these with X.9 shifters. Fit to be determined later....
    Tough to find front AND rear sets in stock..... lots of fronts, not many rears.

  21. #21
    ballbuster
    Reputation: pimpbot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,702
    As much of a fan as I am of Shimano brakes, if you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    267
    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    As much of a fan as I am of Shimano brakes, if you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.
    I dunno man. It's usually the pads that suck. I believe one big problem that Avid has is that their pad compounds are lower quality, harder to bed in, and noisier. And the surface of a new avid pad has a rough finish that beds in poorly, leading to a lot more squeak than Shimano pads which come with a very smooth, clean and flat surface.


    Swapping/trimming hoses is easy. It doesn't require a bleed, although you should get the bleed funnel/kit, it's very cheap. And some oil, and they'll be there when you need it.

    Shimano includes an extra olive and insert for the line, and a hose vise which is just two pieces of plastic you can use to clamp the hose in a vise or vise grips to cut it. You should use a new olive if you're putting the hose into a different receptacle, even if you don't trim its length.

    All you need is an 8mm open end wrench for the hose nut and a 2mm hex wrench to crack the bleed screw open. You also need a sharp knife to cut the line and something to clamp the hose vise with.

    Start by removing the pads and then pumping the lever so the pistons extend part ways out from their bores. What you are doing is increasing the fluid volume in the caliper, so that later, you can push out the air you will introduce into the line back through the master cylinder when you push the pistons back in.

    Then unscrew the hose nut from the lever and pull the hose out. Figure out how long you want the hose and then clamp it in the hose vise and cut it off square. Push the new insert in. Then, make sure the boot then nut are still on the line and slide on a new olive. Route the hose through your other cables and shove it in the correct lever, and screw the nut in. Then, get a rag ready to wipe oil, and unscrew the lever bleed screw. Use a tool like a tire lever to push the pistons back in flush with the caliper. Oil and air may drip out of the bleed port. When you've got the pistons back in, put the bleed screw and pads back in, and you should be done. Check for firm lever action with the wheel in. In the shop I often just stick a cone wrench in there as a stand in for the rotor.

  23. #23
    Nox Trailbuilder
    Reputation: Retlaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by Kanik View Post
    Swapping/trimming hoses is easy. .......
    Thanks for the how-to

  24. #24
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    19,940
    I'd give the nod to getting the new XTs, definitely worthwhile upgrade over the older 775s. I just got some, well actually only got the front from a shipping mistake and installed that and it's absolutely superb compared to the Stroker Trail it replaced, loads more power, better adjustment and quiet as a mouse. I also went for the older RT76 rotors since it seemed that most said the newer Ice Tech RT86 rotors were only really noticeable on really long descents and we have none of those here.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
    MTB Barbados
    My Phantom pics

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AK47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,063

    What rotor kills the turkey?

    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    If you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.
    What brand rotor do you suggest to rid us of the dreaded turkey gobble? I have a set of Elixer 3's that are about ready to get replaced, but if a rotor fix will do the trick, I'm all ears...

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ianick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,061
    I just installed XT brakes on my stock Salsa Spearfish. The bike came set up with the shifters mounted to the brake levers with Matchmakers. If your bike uses them you will need purchase mounting hardware for the shifters.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: The Haunted's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    170
    Xt785 brakes is hands down the best upgrade i ever did on my trail bike. Sram shifters are made to work with shimano brakes because they know their own brakes are ****.
    Better power, modulation, better lever, caliper, piston design than the POS Elixir CR they were replacing.
    Got finally rid of the dreaded turkey gobble issue plaguing my FSR at the same time.
    Because NO, changing/sanding the rotors, pads, resetting pistons, calipers etc won't solve the problem for more than 5 miles, been there done that.
    Avid brakes are the culprit, always been...

  28. #28
    247
    247 is offline
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1,333
    if you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.
    My LBS tried Everything! (new rotors also) but still got that Turkey Gobble.. Also I got a new Superfly frame (and my current brakes are a few years old--work okay but have to keep bleeding them) and they are scratched (etc, etc)---but I will sell them on Craigslist for a few bucks!!

    --ALSO I am going faster and they just don't have the stopping power they used to have a few years ago....

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AK47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,063
    Why does Avid produce such POS garbage brakes, and why do bike manufacturers keep spec'ing them?

    I have had nothing but issues with their hydro's. Makes my blood boil because to get something that works like it should when buying a complete bike, it ends up costing the consumer more...

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EOS_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    54
    I agree, I have Superfly AL 2012 and 2 months ago I changed the brakes to XT.
    First of all, Shimano made a huge improvement in their brakes this year. 2012 model is a lot different from previous models and a lot better, so do not buy older ones. What I think, SLX and XT brakes are practically the same. Same design, brake pads, levers. XT have the free stroke which SLX don't. I don't think that it is so important (I could have saved some $$ and bought the SLX). I recommend the SLX. Have a look on bikeradar.com, their brake reviews. SLX 2012 are now the best brakes out there (at least according to them and I trust them).
    Avids are not bad, but now Shimano is far superior. Avids just need frequent adjustments. My elixir 3 were horrible. I mean they worked well and were reliable, but just from nothing pad started rubbing my rotor and had to adjust them after every ride. Also when I got the bike, I had to set them up for about an hour. I said enough, I'm getting shimanos. Set up took about a minute and they simply stay in place no matter how I ride. I also have the cooling fin on my, but don't know if it makes any significant difference. Maybe some hard riders would know.

  31. #31
    247
    247 is offline
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1,333
    Hey EOS--do you have SRAM shifters on that bike? and how do they fit with XT brakes (did you have to get the 'clamp' I just read about in an earlier reply here?

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EOS_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    54
    Hi, hmm, this is something I never thought about. Clamp, I don't know. No, I have the stock shifters - Shimano Deore, so they fit together perfectly with XT brakes. The stock brakes on my Superfly AL 2012 were Avid (SRAM) Elixir 3. So I guess if Sram brakes can go together with Shimano shifters, why couldn't it work the other way around? As Evasive wrote, it is only a matter of design.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dnlwthrn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    1,255
    It was mentioned in a different, but similar thread. If you have SRAM components with the matchmaker clamps, you'll have to get different clamps for your shifters when you switch to Shimano brakes.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    18
    That's right.
    A "Discrete Clamp" like the following is needed.
    SRAM X0 Trigger Shifter Discrete Clamp 2011 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AK47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,063
    A good deal on the SLX version brakeset at E-Bike Stop: Shimano SLX M675 Front Pre-Bled Brake Kit Metal Pad 1000mm Hose @ eBikeStop.com

    Don't forget the coupon code at the top of the website for free shipping.

  36. #36
    Davir
    Reputation: davthedude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    314
    Quote Originally Posted by bisicklay View Post
    XT 785 Ice-tech fins. Ice-tech rotors. They waterski on rattlesnakes while eating a bible.
    true that and bleeding is a breeze! check utube no special funnel reqired.

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    6
    Good thread. I too am staring a build and will be going with the 785s

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sportsmed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    27
    Is there much difference in the amount of modulation you get between the latest SLX and XT?

  39. #39
    inexperienced at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,841
    Ice tech is cool.

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

  40. #40
    get down!
    Reputation: appleSSeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    2,183
    Agree about the SLX's. I have XT's on my Raijin and just put the SLX's on my Kona Satori and I think I prefer the SLX. They were cheaper and feel just as good if not better.

    I got mine at Blue Sky and they were the perfect length for the large satori (24.5" ett) with a 90mm stem...not cutting needed!
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

    visit my blog, BEATS, BIKES & LIFE

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    2
    There is also two other options-- The SLX is nearly identical sometimes at a savings. The levers are short, but a trail version of the XT is available with longer levers. It is listed on the German site bikecomponents.de. Cost with shipping is about 206. The site has good prices on Schwalbe tires and other components. The front brake is very powerful, so a longer lever may help you to modulate it.
    The levers won't integrate with your shifters. You can make them as tight as you want.

  42. #42
    burnedthetoast
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    223
    Loving my XT's with Ice tech. Have them on my Niner EMD9 with X7 shifters, works just fine. I've had them for ~6 months now and haven't even had to think about doing anything to the brakes yet (no I haven't ridden a lot of hard descents, but still I think it's pretty good!).

    I've never had Avid hydros, but have BB7s on 2 bikes (and BB5s on a previous bike) and have yet to figure out something that makes them not squeal. Pads, rotors, etc. - all noisy! I like other stuff by SRAM/Avid but for right now I'm definitely in the Shimano camp for brakes!
    Ride to Work, Work to Live, Live to Ride

  43. #43
    May contain nuts
    Reputation: Haggis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,948
    You can save a bucket of cash by not buying finned pads too. Took part in a 1700m descent enduro race last week on non-finned Brake Authority sintered pads ('Burly') and they performed just as well as the super-pricey Shimano finned sintered pads.

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AK47's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,063
    Anybody have any suggestions on centering the front caliper? I am trying to install a set of Shimano SLX's (IceTech) w/ the IceTech rotors. No matter what I do, I can't get the rotor to not rub on the caliper (sigh)... If it matters, it's a standard 9mm QR.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,145
    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    Anybody have any suggestions on centering the front caliper? I am trying to install a set of Shimano SLX's (IceTech) w/ the IceTech rotors. No matter what I do, I can't get the rotor to not rub on the caliper (sigh)... If it matters, it's a standard 9mm QR.
    use a crescent wrench to bend the rotor, just sight the gap after loosening the caliper. It can also help to keep one caliper bolt snug so only the other moves, when you tighten alternate 1/4 or 1/2 turns

  46. #46
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    19,940
    DO NOT do anything to your new rotors, it's already been explained your hubs are out of whack, check my reply in your other thread.
    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    Anybody have any suggestions on centering the front caliper? I am trying to install a set of Shimano SLX's (IceTech) w/ the IceTech rotors. No matter what I do, I can't get the rotor to not rub on the caliper (sigh)... If it matters, it's a standard 9mm QR.
    Quote Originally Posted by goodmojo View Post
    use a crescent wrench to bend the rotor, just sight the gap after loosening the caliper. It can also help to keep one caliper bolt snug so only the other moves, when you tighten alternate 1/4 or 1/2 turns
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
    MTB Barbados
    My Phantom pics

  47. #47
    Dave
    Reputation: liteandfast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    891
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    DO NOT do anything to your new rotors, it's already been explained your hubs are out of whack, check my reply in your other thread.
    never mind other here will help you.
    Last edited by liteandfast; 01-03-2013 at 09:16 AM.
    I need to ride more and work less.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CYCLEJCE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    660
    Ak47: sounds like you need to bleed some fluid from your brakes to open up the distance between the pads.

  49. #49
    West Chester, PA
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,735
    Quote Originally Posted by liteandfast View Post
    Your dish is off a little on your front wheel. If you have a dishing tool check it.
    You don't know what dish is.

    His problem is one of these -

    A spacing issue with the hub bearings and/or end caps. (really worn bearings can do weird things)

    A caliper mount issue with the fork.

    A caliper adapter issue with the fork.

    The hub axle could be slightly bent, so the disc will be in different positions depending on how the hub falls into the fork before he tightens the QR. (this can drive a person crazy)

    The lever was squeezed before he mounted the caliper.

  50. #50
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    19,940
    Exactly, not a clue - Dish has nothing what so ever to do with the brakes unless he was running Rim Brakes, which he's not. As 92gli said, he has another issue and it could be one of many, but going from his other thread about it and the fact he says his old stock wheels have no issue with rotor rub/wobble, I have to again say I believe that his hub flange is not square to the fork and needs facing.

    In case you're even interested in learning something Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Wheel Dishing (Centering)

    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    You don't know what dish is.
    Quote Originally Posted by liteandfast View Post
    Your dish is off a little on your front wheel. If you have a dishing tool check it.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
    MTB Barbados
    My Phantom pics

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •