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  1. #1
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    XT Brakes Question (need answers)

    So i am posting here (because my other post got no answers to my question yet--AND I am about to Pull the Trigger on a pair of these...


    XT brakes? which ones to get?

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I have read here in another thread that BLUESKY has them at a good price.

    I am going to replace my 'Turkey Gobble' sounding Elixer R's and have only read about good things for XT brakes..

    I am a Cylde (225) with a TREK Superfly... and i see the 775, 785, and 785 ICE.

    --dont know a lot about brakes. I see that the 'lower number' in this series has Twice-the-Price (MSRP) of the higher number (on BLUESKY.) Any suggesstions in which ones to get???

    ALSO, i have X-9 shifters and just read that they DO NOT fit flush under them??

    Does that mean they are loose or Shake??

  2. #2
    Uncle
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    I use 775s, which are the 1 generation older than their latest and greatest 785s. Shimano brakes in general just work well - pretty much any model and year at least back to 2006. Can't really go wrong. The 775s (and most other earlier models - SLX, XTR, etc) can be bled without special tools. The newer generation brakes require a special funnel to get fluid into the master cylinder. In my book that's not a deal breaker, but just an added concern for if/when I buy a newer set. I have heard from friends that have owned both, that the newer version 785s also perform better than the 775s - more overall power, I believe is what they're experiencing. I've not ridden the newer model, so I can't confirm this claim. I'd say get the newer ones if you're buying either brand new.

    As for the ICE-tech stuff: I can't comment either way.
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  3. #3
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    There is also two other options-- The SLX is nearly identical sometimes at a savings. The levers are short, but a trail version of the XT is available with longer levers. It is listed on the German site bikecomponents.de. Cost with shipping is about 206. The site has good prices on Schwalbe tires and other components. The front brake is very powerful, so a longer lever may help you to modulate it.
    The levers won't integrate with your shifters. You can make them as tight as you want.

  4. #4
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    I have XT 785 w the ice-tech fins and ice tech rotors on my giant anthem - replaced the elixir cr's that come on that bike - best upgrade! worked from day 1 and provide 1 finger breaking - power and feel is superior and have never made a noise - like everyone states - they work!

    I also am now on a new bike that came specd with 2013 SLX - basically - xt/xtr tech has flowed down - im guessing they are last years xt equivalent. I cant tell a difference btw the new slx and 2012 xt - same 1 finger power and feel.

    ice tech refers the the extra cooling fins designed to provide some better airflow and cooling to the pads. also - the ice tech rotors are a steel/alum sandwhich construction designed to run cooler than the standard steel rotors

    all i can say is both the SLX and XT stuff is phenom and there are some great deals out there right now on both - 110-130 per set - pre bled and complete (not rotors) -

    I ride a lot of trail/all mt terrain in CO - and rode the entire kokapelli with the xt's freshly mounted - worked immediately and perfectly - no heat fade I could notice on porcupine dh the final day as well

  5. #5
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    Thanks all.. I think I will go with the 775's (its all I need)-----but wonder why the MSRP was higher on the 'lower' model (on BlueSky)--

    ALSO does anyone know if I am running X-9 trigger's if they will move any when braking?

    I just read a post that said they are not flush when using SRAM shifters.. But does that mean they slightly move??


  6. #6
    Axe
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    2012 ХТ. Finned pads, yes. I did not notice much difference with ice-tech rotors (have both kinds - RT76 and RT86 on two bikes). Works with other rotors as well. They are notably better than previous model, and easier to bleed.

    2013 SLX are pretty much the same.

    I guess you would need a 29er version, that I do not know about.

    Bought mine here: Sets, Disc Brakes, Bremsen, Komponenten $180 for a pair of SLX with finned pads.

  7. #7
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    Go with the 785 those are The new generation. The ones that get all The good reviews and everyone loves. (Not The 775).

  8. #8
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    Double post
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 247 View Post
    Thanks all.. I think I will go with the 775's (its all I need)-----but wonder why the MSRP was higher on the 'lower' model (on BlueSky)--

    ALSO does anyone know if I am running X-9 trigger's if they will move any when braking?

    I just read a post that said they are not flush when using SRAM shifters.. But does that mean they slightly move??

    I'm running 785s with X-9 shifters and they work fine together. By not flush they mean the two don't fit as close together on the handlebars as the Elixer Rs and X-9s do. I never noticed it being a problem. The flush fit has nothing to do with them moving while braking.

  10. #10
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    Shimano disc brakes | Merlin Cycles
    Ships from uk but great prices on their brakes. I ordered the 780's for around $180 and when opened the box they were 785's. Good price turned to a great price.
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  11. #11
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    What they mean about the shifter not fitting is that you have to rotate them down a little, so the position of the triggers may feel weird.

  12. #12
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    Fitting issue is that the housing of the shifter hits the housing of the master cylinder. You'll have to rotate the shifter down a little (if that makes sense). It won't be loose, just in a different position that you may want.

  13. #13
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    Same brake/shifter. I'm running the brakes on the outside of the shifters. No interference issues...
    Brought to you by rocks.

  14. #14
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    785 is infinitely better than 775. I own both.

  15. #15
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    As others have said, I can't see any reason not to go with the 785s. They're fantastic.

    I'm another one with 785s and X9 shifters. It works fine; they just don't mesh together by design the way that some brake-shifter combinations do.

    XT Brakes Question (need answers)-img_2777.jpg

  16. #16
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    I have a set of front and rear XT M775 brakes for sale in the classifieds...even have rotors to go with them if needed.

  17. #17
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    Thanks everyone (and those on Classified)--but I will now go with the 785 instead...

    I did not even know there was a 780 (that is how much I know about XT brakes)---

  18. #18
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    Finned XT Trail W/Ice tech. the way to go. I got my rotors from Blue Sky shipped for $96 (180/160), I have seen the XT trail from $99-169 a piece. I got mine for $109 a side installed at the LBS with rotors. I also got XT shifters installed at the same time. Best upgrade for my money. If you can get them for a good price they work great.

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  19. #19
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    XT 785 Ice-tech fins. Ice-tech rotors. They waterski on rattlesnakes while eating a bible.

  20. #20
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    Just ordered the 785's from Chain Reaction, $213.80 for the pair, + $66.79 for a pair of RT76 180mm/160mm rotors = $279.59 for all. Subtract their $50 'deal' and they're $229.59 for everything....I couldn't find a better deal.
    They're coming from Ireland, wonder how long that will take? They are 'euro spec'....left rear and right front, so hoses need to be swapped.
    The unbeatable price on the rotors and the free shipping/no tax made it a sweet deal.
    I'm combining these with X.9 shifters. Fit to be determined later....
    Tough to find front AND rear sets in stock..... lots of fronts, not many rears.

  21. #21
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    As much of a fan as I am of Shimano brakes, if you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    As much of a fan as I am of Shimano brakes, if you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.
    I dunno man. It's usually the pads that suck. I believe one big problem that Avid has is that their pad compounds are lower quality, harder to bed in, and noisier. And the surface of a new avid pad has a rough finish that beds in poorly, leading to a lot more squeak than Shimano pads which come with a very smooth, clean and flat surface.


    Swapping/trimming hoses is easy. It doesn't require a bleed, although you should get the bleed funnel/kit, it's very cheap. And some oil, and they'll be there when you need it.

    Shimano includes an extra olive and insert for the line, and a hose vise which is just two pieces of plastic you can use to clamp the hose in a vise or vise grips to cut it. You should use a new olive if you're putting the hose into a different receptacle, even if you don't trim its length.

    All you need is an 8mm open end wrench for the hose nut and a 2mm hex wrench to crack the bleed screw open. You also need a sharp knife to cut the line and something to clamp the hose vise with.

    Start by removing the pads and then pumping the lever so the pistons extend part ways out from their bores. What you are doing is increasing the fluid volume in the caliper, so that later, you can push out the air you will introduce into the line back through the master cylinder when you push the pistons back in.

    Then unscrew the hose nut from the lever and pull the hose out. Figure out how long you want the hose and then clamp it in the hose vise and cut it off square. Push the new insert in. Then, make sure the boot then nut are still on the line and slide on a new olive. Route the hose through your other cables and shove it in the correct lever, and screw the nut in. Then, get a rag ready to wipe oil, and unscrew the lever bleed screw. Use a tool like a tire lever to push the pistons back in flush with the caliper. Oil and air may drip out of the bleed port. When you've got the pistons back in, put the bleed screw and pads back in, and you should be done. Check for firm lever action with the wheel in. In the shop I often just stick a cone wrench in there as a stand in for the rotor.

  23. #23
    Nox Trailbuilder
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanik View Post
    Swapping/trimming hoses is easy. .......
    Thanks for the how-to

  24. #24
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    I'd give the nod to getting the new XTs, definitely worthwhile upgrade over the older 775s. I just got some, well actually only got the front from a shipping mistake and installed that and it's absolutely superb compared to the Stroker Trail it replaced, loads more power, better adjustment and quiet as a mouse. I also went for the older RT76 rotors since it seemed that most said the newer Ice Tech RT86 rotors were only really noticeable on really long descents and we have none of those here.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  25. #25
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    What rotor kills the turkey?

    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    If you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.
    What brand rotor do you suggest to rid us of the dreaded turkey gobble? I have a set of Elixer 3's that are about ready to get replaced, but if a rotor fix will do the trick, I'm all ears...

  26. #26
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    I just installed XT brakes on my stock Salsa Spearfish. The bike came set up with the shifters mounted to the brake levers with Matchmakers. If your bike uses them you will need purchase mounting hardware for the shifters.

  27. #27
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    Xt785 brakes is hands down the best upgrade i ever did on my trail bike. Sram shifters are made to work with shimano brakes because they know their own brakes are ****.
    Better power, modulation, better lever, caliper, piston design than the POS Elixir CR they were replacing.
    Got finally rid of the dreaded turkey gobble issue plaguing my FSR at the same time.
    Because NO, changing/sanding the rotors, pads, resetting pistons, calipers etc won't solve the problem for more than 5 miles, been there done that.
    Avid brakes are the culprit, always been...

  28. #28
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    if you're dumping the Elixrs because of the 'turkey gobble' issue, you can just get new rotors, and problem solved.
    My LBS tried Everything! (new rotors also) but still got that Turkey Gobble.. Also I got a new Superfly frame (and my current brakes are a few years old--work okay but have to keep bleeding them) and they are scratched (etc, etc)---but I will sell them on Craigslist for a few bucks!!

    --ALSO I am going faster and they just don't have the stopping power they used to have a few years ago....

  29. #29
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    Why does Avid produce such POS garbage brakes, and why do bike manufacturers keep spec'ing them?

    I have had nothing but issues with their hydro's. Makes my blood boil because to get something that works like it should when buying a complete bike, it ends up costing the consumer more...

  30. #30
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    I agree, I have Superfly AL 2012 and 2 months ago I changed the brakes to XT.
    First of all, Shimano made a huge improvement in their brakes this year. 2012 model is a lot different from previous models and a lot better, so do not buy older ones. What I think, SLX and XT brakes are practically the same. Same design, brake pads, levers. XT have the free stroke which SLX don't. I don't think that it is so important (I could have saved some $$ and bought the SLX). I recommend the SLX. Have a look on bikeradar.com, their brake reviews. SLX 2012 are now the best brakes out there (at least according to them and I trust them).
    Avids are not bad, but now Shimano is far superior. Avids just need frequent adjustments. My elixir 3 were horrible. I mean they worked well and were reliable, but just from nothing pad started rubbing my rotor and had to adjust them after every ride. Also when I got the bike, I had to set them up for about an hour. I said enough, I'm getting shimanos. Set up took about a minute and they simply stay in place no matter how I ride. I also have the cooling fin on my, but don't know if it makes any significant difference. Maybe some hard riders would know.

  31. #31
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    Hey EOS--do you have SRAM shifters on that bike? and how do they fit with XT brakes (did you have to get the 'clamp' I just read about in an earlier reply here?

  32. #32
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    Hi, hmm, this is something I never thought about. Clamp, I don't know. No, I have the stock shifters - Shimano Deore, so they fit together perfectly with XT brakes. The stock brakes on my Superfly AL 2012 were Avid (SRAM) Elixir 3. So I guess if Sram brakes can go together with Shimano shifters, why couldn't it work the other way around? As Evasive wrote, it is only a matter of design.

  33. #33
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    It was mentioned in a different, but similar thread. If you have SRAM components with the matchmaker clamps, you'll have to get different clamps for your shifters when you switch to Shimano brakes.

  34. #34
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    That's right.
    A "Discrete Clamp" like the following is needed.
    SRAM X0 Trigger Shifter Discrete Clamp 2011 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

  35. #35
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    A good deal on the SLX version brakeset at E-Bike Stop: Shimano SLX M675 Front Pre-Bled Brake Kit Metal Pad 1000mm Hose @ eBikeStop.com

    Don't forget the coupon code at the top of the website for free shipping.

  36. #36
    Davir
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    Quote Originally Posted by bisicklay View Post
    XT 785 Ice-tech fins. Ice-tech rotors. They waterski on rattlesnakes while eating a bible.
    true that and bleeding is a breeze! check utube no special funnel reqired.

  37. #37
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    Good thread. I too am staring a build and will be going with the 785s

  38. #38
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    Is there much difference in the amount of modulation you get between the latest SLX and XT?

  39. #39
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    Ice tech is cool.

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  40. #40
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    Agree about the SLX's. I have XT's on my Raijin and just put the SLX's on my Kona Satori and I think I prefer the SLX. They were cheaper and feel just as good if not better.

    I got mine at Blue Sky and they were the perfect length for the large satori (24.5" ett) with a 90mm stem...not cutting needed!
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  41. #41
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    There is also two other options-- The SLX is nearly identical sometimes at a savings. The levers are short, but a trail version of the XT is available with longer levers. It is listed on the German site bikecomponents.de. Cost with shipping is about 206. The site has good prices on Schwalbe tires and other components. The front brake is very powerful, so a longer lever may help you to modulate it.
    The levers won't integrate with your shifters. You can make them as tight as you want.

  42. #42
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    Loving my XT's with Ice tech. Have them on my Niner EMD9 with X7 shifters, works just fine. I've had them for ~6 months now and haven't even had to think about doing anything to the brakes yet (no I haven't ridden a lot of hard descents, but still I think it's pretty good!).

    I've never had Avid hydros, but have BB7s on 2 bikes (and BB5s on a previous bike) and have yet to figure out something that makes them not squeal. Pads, rotors, etc. - all noisy! I like other stuff by SRAM/Avid but for right now I'm definitely in the Shimano camp for brakes!
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  43. #43
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    You can save a bucket of cash by not buying finned pads too. Took part in a 1700m descent enduro race last week on non-finned Brake Authority sintered pads ('Burly') and they performed just as well as the super-pricey Shimano finned sintered pads.

  44. #44
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    Anybody have any suggestions on centering the front caliper? I am trying to install a set of Shimano SLX's (IceTech) w/ the IceTech rotors. No matter what I do, I can't get the rotor to not rub on the caliper (sigh)... If it matters, it's a standard 9mm QR.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    Anybody have any suggestions on centering the front caliper? I am trying to install a set of Shimano SLX's (IceTech) w/ the IceTech rotors. No matter what I do, I can't get the rotor to not rub on the caliper (sigh)... If it matters, it's a standard 9mm QR.
    use a crescent wrench to bend the rotor, just sight the gap after loosening the caliper. It can also help to keep one caliper bolt snug so only the other moves, when you tighten alternate 1/4 or 1/2 turns

  46. #46
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    DO NOT do anything to your new rotors, it's already been explained your hubs are out of whack, check my reply in your other thread.
    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    Anybody have any suggestions on centering the front caliper? I am trying to install a set of Shimano SLX's (IceTech) w/ the IceTech rotors. No matter what I do, I can't get the rotor to not rub on the caliper (sigh)... If it matters, it's a standard 9mm QR.
    Quote Originally Posted by goodmojo View Post
    use a crescent wrench to bend the rotor, just sight the gap after loosening the caliper. It can also help to keep one caliper bolt snug so only the other moves, when you tighten alternate 1/4 or 1/2 turns
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    DO NOT do anything to your new rotors, it's already been explained your hubs are out of whack, check my reply in your other thread.
    never mind other here will help you.
    Last edited by liteandfast; 01-03-2013 at 10:16 AM.
    I need to ride more and work less.

  48. #48
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    Ak47: sounds like you need to bleed some fluid from your brakes to open up the distance between the pads.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by liteandfast View Post
    Your dish is off a little on your front wheel. If you have a dishing tool check it.
    You don't know what dish is.

    His problem is one of these -

    A spacing issue with the hub bearings and/or end caps. (really worn bearings can do weird things)

    A caliper mount issue with the fork.

    A caliper adapter issue with the fork.

    The hub axle could be slightly bent, so the disc will be in different positions depending on how the hub falls into the fork before he tightens the QR. (this can drive a person crazy)

    The lever was squeezed before he mounted the caliper.

  50. #50
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    Exactly, not a clue - Dish has nothing what so ever to do with the brakes unless he was running Rim Brakes, which he's not. As 92gli said, he has another issue and it could be one of many, but going from his other thread about it and the fact he says his old stock wheels have no issue with rotor rub/wobble, I have to again say I believe that his hub flange is not square to the fork and needs facing.

    In case you're even interested in learning something Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Wheel Dishing (Centering)

    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    You don't know what dish is.
    Quote Originally Posted by liteandfast View Post
    Your dish is off a little on your front wheel. If you have a dishing tool check it.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  51. #51
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    well pardon me. I made a mistake. I take it all back. never mind what I say, said, or am going to say.
    I need to ride more and work less.

  52. #52
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    QUOTE=92gli;10032885]
    His problem is one of these -

    A spacing issue with the hub bearings and/or end caps. (really worn bearings can do weird things)
    [/QUOTE]

    92gli & LYnX - This has to be it. I just tried a brand new, never used skewer and the problem is still there. This is using an aftermarket Stan's Crest wheel w/ ZTR hubs. I tried the stock front wheel and the caliper will true up to the rotor easily after gently resetting the pads back open. I'm waiving the white flag on this one and heading to the bike medic tomorrow with both front wheels in hand...

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Haunted View Post
    Xt785 brakes is hands down the best upgrade i ever did on my trail bike. Sram shifters are made to work with shimano brakes because they know their own brakes are ****.
    Better power, modulation, better lever, caliper, piston design than the POS Elixir CR they were replacing.
    Got finally rid of the dreaded turkey gobble issue plaguing my FSR at the same time.
    Because NO, changing/sanding the rotors, pads, resetting pistons, calipers etc won't solve the problem for more than 5 miles, been there done that.
    Avid brakes are the culprit, always been...
    I have the same bike and the same issue as you. "The Haunted". I have tried bleeding by the SRAM procedure, pad replacement, caliper realignment, sanding the rotors all this with no satisfactory results. I too am ready to go Shimano. Glad to hear it has worked for you. The Elixr 5 braking situation has taken some of the fun out of riding. Can't wait to get my XT's. Question: Rotors- RT 76 OR RT 86??

    Thanks in advance,
    Panic!

  54. #54
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    Besides XT disc brake...I think you should consider.....

    Besides XT disc brakes...I think you should consider other brand as well. I just received a set of Formula RX(front & rear) disc brakes with rotors and it is impressive. The finishing is very nice, offering the same stopping power according to test and it is lighter than the XT. I believed they are in the same price range.

    Here is a link that might be interested to you.

    How We Test Hydraulic Disc Brakes - BikeRadar

    Last edited by edle; 01-22-2013 at 12:05 AM. Reason: add info.

  55. #55
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    By the way, the new bearings and end caps did the trick. The SLX brakes rock! Gobs of power, and thankfully, quiet power...

  56. #56
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    Besides XT disc brakes...I think you should consider other brand as well.
    That is a good point! I have seen other brakes on sale (at better prices)--But I have only read Great things about XT Brakes (and they match my crank)----and it is 'All About' Coordinating on my MTB....

  57. #57
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    Where's the best price to be had for a set of SLX?

  58. #58
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    ebikestop.com seemed to have a really good price ($113 each), and that is where I got mine at: Shimano SLX M675 Front Pre-Bled Brake Kit Metal Pad 1000mm Hose @ eBikeStop.com

  59. #59
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    Anyone know what's the easiest way to bleed off some brake fluid if that's what's needed to create a bit more space between the pads? Would it be premature to do that if there has only been burn in pad wear so far? I know the pistons will automatically move as the pads wear, but I wasn't sure if a bit of clearance would occur first with a bit of wear on the pads...? Thanks.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    ebikestop.com seemed to have a really good price ($113 each), and that is where I got mine at: Shimano SLX M675 Front Pre-Bled Brake Kit Metal Pad 1000mm Hose @ eBikeStop.com
    blueskycycling has front SLX for $70, XT for $99

    BlueSkyCycling.com - Shimano SLX M665 Disc Brake w/ Adapter

  61. #61
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    Good to know the new bearings and end caps did the trick.
    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    By the way, the new bearings and end caps did the trick. The SLX brakes rock! Gobs of power, and thankfully, quiet power...
    Easiest way would be to undo the bleed plug on the lever master cylinder and gently pump the lever to extend the pistons. Curious are you getting pad rub that you want to do this or is the feel at the lever? If it's the feel at the lever and the pads contact too soon, then that's why you get the XTs, they have pad contact adjustment and reach adjustment unlike the SLX which only offer reach adjustment. Just been working on some XTR Race brakes and if someone was to offer me them or my current XTs, I'd take my XTs because the Race XTRs don't have anything but reach adjustment via a small grub screw, you have to fill the reservoir to suit how you like your pad contact to be.


    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    Anyone know what's the easiest way to bleed off some brake fluid if that's what's needed to create a bit more space between the pads? Would it be premature to do that if there has only been burn in pad wear so far? I know the pistons will automatically move as the pads wear, but I wasn't sure if a bit of clearance would occur first with a bit of wear on the pads...? Thanks.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  62. #62
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    Are you implying that the pad contact adjustment screw actually does something?
    Never did a thing on my 2 sets.

  63. #63
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    YES, makes a huge difference in how far I have to pull the lever before I feel pad to rotor contact, cuts it about in 1/2. Doesn't really adjust the pistons, hence pads, really adjusts the lever pull.

    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    Are you implying that the pad contact adjustment screw actually does something?
    Never did a thing on my 2 sets.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  64. #64
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    785, Ice Tech everything +1

  65. #65
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    Interesting

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    YES, makes a huge difference in how far I have to pull the lever before I feel pad to rotor contact, cuts it about in 1/2. Doesn't really adjust the pistons, hence pads, really adjusts the lever pull.
    Good for you, because I have never heard anyone say anything positive about that feature.

  66. #66
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    FYI, it's a 7 (seven) mm wrench for the bleed nipple on the 785 brakes, not 2 (two) mm.

    I just put gold jagwire hyflow hose on mine. easy peasy. getting adjusted to the bleed pattern is my only thing, it's different than the two pair of Magura Louise brakes I've had over the past 10 years. ;^)

    No complaints though, the 785 brakes work fabu. For a clyde with long downhills you'll want 180 rotors on the front if not both wheels (old style). The ice-tech rotors may allow down-size, dunno.

  67. #67
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    Made a little vid, easily shows that the Free Stroke adjustment actually does something and for me who likes as short a pull as possible, I like it a lot.

    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    Good for you, because I have never heard anyone say anything positive about that feature.
    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/IBa9YXBwmV8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  68. #68
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    just know that blue sky does not ship in original packaging. I buy from them a lot and really like them, but chances are that you will not get the extra olive, bleed kit, or anything extra. Usually what they sell is new, but of of a bike.
    as for which ones to get, the new ones are the best yet. Great power and modulation
    my carbon footprint has cleats

  69. #69
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    I have had two shops try to fix the "turkey call" on my juicy 3's. Ran into the last mechanic to touch them today when I was riding and he heard them and was pissed that they were loud again. Said he had some used XT's laying around that he would hook me up with, so to Shimano I go!!!

  70. #70
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    "... friends don't let friends use Avid brakes ..."

    ?

  71. #71
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    I bought a Trek Sawyer which comes stock w/ Juicy 3's. Almost everything on the bike has been replaced except the brakes. Very surprised, they work really well. Once i readjusted and centered the calipers everything has been good, i'm more than happy. Nothing real serious, but many road and trail miles. The XT's on my fully are stronger, but It has larger rotors, plus I am no lightweight. They would be in the trash in a minute if the warble appeared.

  72. #72
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    Maybe Shimano figured it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Made a little vid, easily shows that the Free Stroke adjustment actually does something and for me who likes as short a pull as possible, I like it a lot.



    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/IBa9YXBwmV8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    I use twisters, as good as the XT's work, the levers are short. I just installed a new set of Hayes Prime Expert's, which are completely adjustable . We'll see

  73. #73
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    I love the short levers, for my huge hands they work/fit exceptionally well, no need to have the levers so far out so I get the end inline with my one finger and have to reach for the shifter levers (although it wasn't much of a reach), but having more adjust ability is just great and the power without the finger pressure.effort leaves my hands and forearms not sore after long DHs.
    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    I use twisters, as good as the XT's work, the levers are short. I just installed a new set of Hayes Prime Expert's, which are completely adjustable . We'll see
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

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