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  1. #451
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    Hey peepgang, me too!

    Just picked this up last night. A bit of toeverlap in boat shoes and flats, hopefully that goes away with clipless. No ride time yet.

  2. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandwich View Post
    Hey peepgang, me too!

    Just picked this up last night. A bit of toeverlap in boat shoes and flats, hopefully that goes away with clipless. No ride time yet.
    it does
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  3. #453
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    Does anyone has a suspension set up guide for the Monarch rear shock. I ride at 215, and want to get my sag set up properly. I haven't been able to find anything on the SRAM site.

  4. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by BussaFrame View Post
    Does anyone has a suspension set up guide for the Monarch rear shock. I ride at 215, and want to get my sag set up properly. I haven't been able to find anything on the SRAM site.
    Mine came with an RT3 so not too sure about the Monarch, I started at about 215 on mine and realized I was only getting about 15% sag at that, now Im running my Body weight (190ish) and its just perfect with about 25% sag. Fortunately I have platform settings so I can adjust as needed.

  5. #455
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    look here,...Service Resources - RockShox | SRAM

    pretty much any rear shock is best set by sag, 15-25% of the throw of the shock while seated in a normal position. If you ride rougher terrain or want a little more cush go 20-25% if you're more XC or want a firmer response, got 15-20%
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  6. #456
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    Thanks guys - I'll take it up to body weight and see where it gets me. I have roughly 30% sag now, but want to get the rear shock dialed.

  7. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by BussaFrame View Post
    Thanks guys - I'll take it up to body weight and see where it gets me. I have roughly 30% sag now, but want to get the rear shock dialed.
    Get a start point, like body weight as suggested. Then go ride with the shock pump with you and select about a mile section of trail that is like the typical trail you ride. Go back and forth on it, changing the shock setting until you get it dialed. You cannot get the perfect setup from a tech bulletin or an internet forum. Your BUTT on the SADDLE has to decide!
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  8. #458
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    perhaps I've missed it, but recommendations on the Radium? So far that's the biggest dissappointment with this bike, I'm hoping I just don't have it figured out yet.

  9. #459
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    Voodoo!!!!! Wow... just found this bike AND thread today. I'm upgrading from a 98' Rockhopper, but I had a 05' Stumpy that got stolen... miss that sucker a lot. So fast and nimble. Anyway! I've been looking at FSR Stumpys, Giants, and Cannondales but this has surpassed them all in look and adaptability. Disc brakes what? This will really really be a wicked upgrade for me as you can tell. hahaha

    I'll be asking you guys questions here soon I'm sure but right now I'm just trying to figure out what parts will fit and so on and so on. Anybody doing a 10 speed cassette on these with a single gear at the crank? Thanks guys!!!!

  10. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    Voodoo!!!!! Wow... just found this bike AND thread today. I'm upgrading from a 98' Rockhopper, but I had a 05' Stumpy that got stolen... miss that sucker a lot. So fast and nimble. Anyway! I've been looking at FSR Stumpys, Giants, and Cannondales but this has surpassed them all in look and adaptability. Disc brakes what? This will really really be a wicked upgrade for me as you can tell. hahaha

    I'll be asking you guys questions here soon I'm sure but right now I'm just trying to figure out what parts will fit and so on and so on. Anybody doing a 10 speed cassette on these with a single gear at the crank? Thanks guys!!!!
    Ask away, Always glad to answer what im able to

    Im currently running a 1x10 with my Canzo, and without the front derailleur its now in the 24lb range

  11. #461
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    Well besides weight, I just see it as less **** to go wrong while I"m riding. You know? I guess my only worry is that If I say....... go to CO and want to do some long flowing fire road/single track that i wont be able to pedal fast enough to go blazin down the mountain! hahaha. I'm sure that's bs tho.... I live in Ohio so, all the local trails are pretty up/down hilly with roots and switchbacks.

    I guess my first question about parts is.... just trying to figure out A> What people are using for their Voodoo builds.(Which i've been reading over and over on reviews here for perspective) B>What the tolerances are for what actually FITS the frame,tires,seat post, hubs...etc. And C>Weight vs Price for picking parts. There isn't anything i'm going to scrap off the RockHopper so... this is will be 100% find deals, ebay, etc.

    Thanks bro

  12. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    Well besides weight, I just see it as less **** to go wrong while I"m riding. You know? I guess my only worry is that If I say....... go to CO and want to do some long flowing fire road/single track that i wont be able to pedal fast enough to go blazin down the mountain! hahaha. I'm sure that's bs tho.... I live in Ohio so, all the local trails are pretty up/down hilly with roots and switchbacks.

    I guess my first question about parts is.... just trying to figure out A> What people are using for their Voodoo builds.(Which i've been reading over and over on reviews here for perspective) B>What the tolerances are for what actually FITS the frame,tires,seat post, hubs...etc. And C>Weight vs Price for picking parts. There isn't anything i'm going to scrap off the RockHopper so... this is will be 100% find deals, ebay, etc.

    Thanks bro
    True, less moving parts. I really just never used more than 1 chainring where I ride anyway. So if I move Ill throw the stuff back on is all. I think everyone is different with the Voodoo builds (as any other built ride), are we talking about the Canzo specifically? I happen to like SRAM drivetrain stuff over others so thats what Im using. Canzo is a little limited with front derailleur (High mount only) and rear tire clearance isnt much. If going with mostly used parts, you may be able to build a 25lb Canzo for $2500. Look into the Stylo OCT cranks, Sunringle wheel Set, light tires, light saddle and if you can find a used reba fork you should pretty much be in that price and weight range, good luck!

  13. #463
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    hey tragedybysyntax, before anyone can really give you build advice it's good to let everyone know what type of bike you want to build? looking for a lighter XC, smooth flowy trail bike, or a more rough and rocky AM bike? The Canzo is a decent bike to build ether way. It's not going to be the lightest, but can be built down into the mid to low 20 lb's but it's also a decent frame for medium, mild AM type use. it's not going to take large, crazy drops. but can be built to run well on rougher, rooty, heavy baby head type stuff.

    hey and Ace5high.. why the OCT cranks? the standard ext BB stylos are lighter..?
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  14. #464
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    Well I'm not a downhill guy. Around here in Ohio/Kentucky it's short hills up/down, roots and flowing single track. I'm about 5'9", 220... So I'm thinking medium in the canzo (I'll be under 200 for season tho)

  15. #465
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    i'm 5'9" and went with the small.. the Canzo has a long top tube which is where I needed it. My Small Canzo feels bigger than my Medium Apache did.. look at the specs before buying and decide by stand over and reach, depending on your body style (longer legs or longer torso) choose the right one for you. It may very well be the Medium is a better fit for you. At our height we've right on the line for either size.

    At your weight (I'm 190ish) you'll probably want to worry about less about the bike being a weight weenie as much as being stiff and solid enough to last yrs. My general recommendations, general ideas to start with for a build would be...

    Stylo cranks (light, strong, price easy on the wallet all over the web
    if you can find a deal on carbon bars, go for it, they are amazing how they help soften the vibrations transferred to your hands

    Look for a Manitou fork over something like a Reba, you'll need to change the stock spring but the reba's I have found to need too much air to properly set and sag for my weight and they end up harsh unless I set the pressure low and then it just bottoms out constantly... I've seen people who weigh less seem to like the Reba's but it seems that when you get over the 180lbs people they like them less and less. I'd like to try the new X fusion but I haven't yet so I can't say. If you got the $$$, Fox is about the best ride but I found the Manitou's are about the longest lasting

    Sram X9 drive train is about the best bang for the buck with the combo packs sold around the web. I also prefer the thumb-thumb shifters over the thumb forefinger ones that Shimano uses,.. but that's more a personal choice and what you are used to riding with...

    Wheels, well there are WAY too many choices, I would recommend staying away from the super light rims and go with something a tad wider also. The wider rim will not only help keep the tire from doing the "roll out" effect but also help to compensate for the Canzo's kinda narrow rear space. Avoid Shimano hubs unless you're into the old cup and cone bearing setups, they are a pain to get the bearings set correctly and honestly don't last.. again a personal choice/experience. I would say the wheels are the #1 place I would spend $$$ on a 29er, get as light as you can that will last and roll. Cheapo hubs/wheels can break and otherwise awesome bike.

    One thing I would say when building a bike from scratch is to get a bunch of cheapo stems in a few diff lengths, switch them around till you find the size/length that fits your body/ride style, you'll probably find that wen going form a 26 bike to a 29er you'll want a shorter stem than you thought.

    these are just idea's/suggestions that i have found building and changing my Canzo (and other bikes).. not any sort of rule..
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  16. #466
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    No, that REALLY helped my friend. I have long legs, broad shoulders so I see what you mean for all of this. I'm a fairly strong guy so I suppose in reality weight isn't huge worry.
    As for wheels I honestly don't know anything or for hubs. I'm thinking about trying to make the bike all black and red. So I'd love to find good parts that would also look wicked. I saw that someone had those silver juicy brake levers with the red dial... gave me the idea, haha.

    What about an awesome braking system? When I'm out in CO blasting down a hill, what will stop this 200lb fella on a dime?


  17. #467
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    Brakes depends on if you want to go Hydro or Mechanical.. I have been using an older set of BB7s for over a year now and love them. If it werent for my upgrade lust and the rear caliper needing to be rebuilt (they are the old BBDB style ones) then I would probably just stick with them. There are lots of good brakes out there and hydros will really depend on riding style and budget. I am looking at a set of Hayes Stroker Trails for my Inbred once I get the money.
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  18. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    .......
    As for wheels I honestly don't know anything or for hubs. I'm thinking about trying to make the bike all black and red. So I'd love to find good parts that would also look wicked.....
    well I've been looking at these, I've never used them as a whole wheel, but a few friends have tried their hubs and liked them a lot really nice for the price range from what I can tell.. (oh and they look wicked in red!! )
    Mountain - 29er - Pure 29er Red Shift, Pure XCR - Bicycle Wheel Warehouse

    Another option is the Velocity Blunts in red for a rim and lace them up to what ever hub you want. I've used Blunts and P-35's for my last 2 wheel builds and like them, though I haven't tried the newer Blunt "SL" which are lighter and i'm guessing wimpier..? still think they would be good, and they are "tubeless ready" which is a big +
    I'm probably not going to go with another set of P-35's again, they are nice but they are TOO wide and roll the side wall of the tire out too much and expose it to the terrain and damage.

    As too brakes, well I use the Avid BB7's. Just love the simplicity, reliability, ruggedness.. but if you are doing any real speed downhill I have found them a tad lacking. I'm a slow-ish rider so it isn't a problem for me but if you are going to bomb downhill a lot I'd look into something a little better in the Hydro class. I'm not big on the Hydros but from experiences with friends and their issues.. I'd probably not go with Avid juicy/Elxier brakes or Formulas. Both work pretty well but I've seen more than one person have wicked annoying squealing issues with both brands that were just beyond a pain to cure. If it were me I'd look at Hope (pricy but wicked nice) Magura or Shimano. But you're probably better off asking around in the "brake" thread section.. There is a Chinese no name brand that I'm hearing rumors about that sells on Ebay as well as direct that are really well priced and lots of people are raving about. might be worth looking into
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  19. #469
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    Thomllama is talking about these..
    Hygia brand Brakes
    hygia brakes | eBay
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  20. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Thomllama is talking about these..
    Hygia brand Brakes
    hygia brakes | eBay
    ya.. what he said...
    (PS they come in a wicked red color..not that that makes them work..?)
    have you tried these? or just providing the link I was too lazy too?
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  21. #471
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    Oh snap those wheels look dope! "for heavy riders" as well!
    I guess you would buy the hubs separate then or pick from their avail weelsets?
    On the brakes...never heard of hygia but nice levers! haha. I'm coming from cantilever land so.... disc is alllllllllll new to me guys

  22. #472
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    Just my personal opinion, but I'd stick with disks from one of the larger brands, like Avid, Shimano, or Hayes, as replacement parts can be difficult to find even on those systems. Nothing is worse than dropping a pad before a big ride or breaking a lever or something like that.

    For parts, I'm a shimano guy, and you can use their shifters push push or push pull. All of their stuff has felt infinitely better to me than anything SRAM I've spent any time on, especially the newer cranks and shadow stuff. I'd say find somebody parting out an old bike and get what you can.

  23. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    Oh snap those wheels look dope! "for heavy riders" as well!
    I guess you would buy the hubs separate then or pick from their avail weelsets?)
    well you can buy the whole wheel, buy the hubs and build yourself or have a local shop build, or choose from them and they will build them for you... again I haven't used these guy (yet) so I can't say either way how good they are, but I do love the look and haven't heard anything bad about them. Honestly if your new to all this these would be a great starter set as a complete wheel from them. as you get into it more you'll probably want to upgrade to something that may be more suited to your ride style/terrain...?


    Quote Originally Posted by tragedybysyntax View Post
    On the brakes...never heard of hygia but nice levers! haha. I'm coming from cantilever land so.... disc is alllllllllll new to me guys
    just be careful the first time out.. I remember flipping over the bars a few times as the power of disc is WAY beyond that of a rim brake, and if you panic brake like I did, the bike stops faster than your body does LOLOLOLOL
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  24. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomllama View Post
    hey tragedybysyntax
    hey and Ace5high.. why the OCT cranks? the standard ext BB stylos are lighter..?
    The OCT is Truvativ's "hollow technology" so the standard line is not as light as the OCT.


    Trage - if your looking at wheels also check out the Sunringle Chargers, they use a licensed stans bead and work wonderful tubeless. I run black flags and at 190lbs have never had a durability issue, chargers are a bit stronger/wider though. Can pick them up on sale between $220 - 250 sometimes.

  25. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ace5high View Post
    The OCT is Truvativ's "hollow technology" so the standard line is not as light as the OCT.
    ohhhhhh I thought it was the older style BB the OCT was referring too but I see they use the same Gigipipe BB, nice.. learn something new everyday!! Thanks
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