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  1. #26
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    This is how a build thread should be done. Nice ride man, congrats!

  2. #27
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    Been a whole lotta waiting for parts.. so, I did do one small buildy thing.. So, until the Headset arrives...

    I like a quiet bike. I don't like chain slap, don't like the damage it can do. I know a lot of guys will wrap the chain stay with all kinds of things, there clear tape, Carbon fiber stick on stuff, tubes! I personally like Cotton handlebar tape.

    This stuff...




    Here's the trick though... Soak it in warm water before you wrap the chain stay. It'll give you a nice clean look. Start up by the crank, loop over the tape once, and wrap towards the rear axle. When you get to the back, tie off the tape with a couple wraps of electrical tape. Take your time, and it can look like this..


    That will protect the chain stay, keep the bike quiet, and lasts for many many miles!

  3. #28
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    Excellent idea with the cotton tape. One suggestion, maybe you can take the cable guide off, wrap the chain stay and use a Xacto blade or pointed spoke to poke a hole through the tape and put the guide back on? Just seems like it'd look a bit cleaner.

  4. #29
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    You can surely do that, you can even wrap the shifter housing, I just like it this way.

    Got my Shimano parts today!!

    Still waiting on the headset though..

    Derailleurs.. pretty simple to mount really.

    Front is direct mount, throw some grease on the threads and mount. the height should be about a MM from the high tooth on the outer ring when the derailleur is in that position..leave the green barrel in for now, and follow the sticker for reference..









    The Rear, throw on some grease, and mount... only caution is make sure the little tab on the back is where the recess should go, it should rest flush on it, too high and the derailleur won't shift right, too low and you'll cross thread the little bugger..






    Too high...




    Just right!!



    Ta dah!!

  5. #30
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    Guess what I got in the mail today!!



    These are the two headset cups.. so, there has been a lot of debate, and I'll give you the choice.. the basic consensus is grease for the PF bottom bracket and the headset. Now, I do know a couple bike techs that prefer the sandy grease for these two areas, which is why I went that way, but there's also a large group that say no. So, grease how you'd prefer, but grease the cups, and set them up in the frame. line them up the way you want them, they aren't moving.




    Get out your headset press...





    Make sure you press it all the way in. It should be flush around the edges.

    Here is the top stack sequence....



    Don't worry about grease just yet, we need to measure the steerer tube first.



    Take your fork, put a layer of grease around the bottom, and slide the race in place. make sure the correct side is up.. it's the side that fits smoothly in the bearing..





    Use a slide to seat it on your fork. the grease should ooze out the sides..you should hear a sound change when the race seats.

    DO NOT BANG THE FORK ON THE GROUND TO SEAT THE RACE!!!!! You'd be surprised what I've seen.

    Put the fork on...





    Put the stem and extra spacers on.. give yourself some room...you can always cut more..





    Make sure the fork is snug.. the bottom should be in there as well..



    I then mark the top with a razor..



    Pull out the fork, and here you go..



    I like to use a pipe cutter... It's simple and effective.



    I cut about a 1/8 below the top line.



    File to clean up the edge..



    Debur..



    Next is the Star nut..



    Bang!!!



    Now grease up the cups and the bearings and reassemble!!




  6. #31
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    Plus rep to you for taking the time to be so thorough with your build pics. I'm sure you are supplying the confidence to many members to do their own.

  7. #32
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    Thank you Ghetto! I had to pause last night to get the kids in bed..

    So next is the bars. Pretty simple here, remove the faceplate, put on the bars, replace the faceplate. No need to crank down the bolts just yet, they just need to be firm. Chances are, when you have the bike all together, when we set up fit, the bars will get moved, once in a good spot, then you'll tighten then to 5nm.



    With the turner you get these black barrel nuts. They look like the ones you get for IKEA furniture, but way nicer. They go in the rear disc break mount...



    The rear disc caliper mounts with two bolts, 5mm allen head, and wraps to the inside of the seat stay, well, like this..



    Here is the brake line routing..





    Go ahead and hang your controls on the bars..



    Front derailleur housing goes in here..






  8. #33
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    Rear derailleur housing runs here..









    By the crank, there is a zip tie mount. Just one zip tie, pulled snug, doesn't need to be tight. Needs to allow for some flex as the suspension moves through it's travel. Just snug..







    Front brake caliper mounts like the rear, two bolts, wrap to the inside, avoid chance of scraping a rock and damaging the line...ask me how I know this little tidbit!






  9. #34
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    Sweet sweet build...oh man

  10. #35
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    Thank you!

    Ok, so back to the controls, I really like the ODI lock on's.. They're simple, and effective..

    Snap the rings on before you put the screws in, and, make sure you have and "Up" side and a "Down" side.. I use the floor as leverage to pop the end caps on..











    On the shifter cables, the ones that come from Shimano are REALLY close.. But, I like a nice clean look. Once the grips are on, you can position the brake levers and shifters where you want them, then snug them up... they don't need to be "Mongo" tight.. I like to be able to move them if twist them hard.. in the event of a crash, they turn instead of braking. Turn the bars lock to lock and give just enough cable housing to allow without binding. Clip the excess off with a cable cutter, check the housing to make sure the inner sleeve is open, if not, use something pointy to open it, put the end cap back on, and run your cables.





    So here's where we're at so far.. pictured here, 17.5 lbs.... the wheels and chain won't be too heavy..

    Can't wait!!



    Next I'm gonna shorten the brake lines.

  11. #36
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    File to clean up the edge..



    I hope you didn't get any deadly sharp aluminum shards in your sandals!

  12. #37
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    Nice build! LBS says my frame will be here by end of month according to Turner. How were you able to get your hands on a black fox float? Also, where did you get the Turner ODI clamps? Thanks.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by southacres View Post
    On your fork, are you using one with a 51mm offset? (The one patented by Trek but is now on the new Ibis Ripley also. It allows for the slacker head angle but keeps the wheelbase shorter and more responsive). I'd read a couple of articles where it was mentioned that the Turner Czar was going to use it too but I didn't see it on their website.
    More fork offset lengthens the wheelbase.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by moose1 View Post
    File to clean up the edge..



    I hope you didn't get any deadly sharp aluminum shards in your sandals!
    LOL... no, I survived... so far

    Quote Originally Posted by jhardeman View Post
    Nice build! LBS says my frame will be here by end of month according to Turner. How were you able to get your hands on a black fox float? Also, where did you get the Turner ODI clamps? Thanks.
    I'll leave the fork as a mystery ... but you can order the lock on's from Turner, or at least you could a few years back.. I don't know what the current status is.

    Quote Originally Posted by OneBadWagon View Post
    More fork offset lengthens the wheelbase.
    When I threw a leg over the Czar, it didn't need any fixing through suspension. It was awesome the way it was set up.

    So, on to the build.. I looked at this, and said yuck!



    So, time to cut the cables! Measure two or three times before you cut the cables!!

    You'll need these things..



    And a 8mm box end to loosen this ..







    That's what it looks like removed.. figure out how much you need to cut, move the bars all the way to one side, think full on crash without pulling the bake line out.. and cut the cable. Take something sharp, a pick, and open up the end a little..



    This is the order of things..



    Tap this in with a hammer, softly, no need to kill it..





    Now put it back int the brake lever, and tighten the Ferrel nut snug..

    Do the same with the other side... Now, doesn't that look better!



    Don't forget to bleed the brakes after shortening the cables. And to keep your pads working well, remove them and put in this spacer before bleeding.. I have many friends who have spilled oil on the pads while bleeding them, the pads will be ruined if they get oil on them, so, get them out of there.



    There's a ton of XT brake bleed videos on youtube, watch one of those first if this is your first time. Much more helpful than pictures.

    Little thing, but, why not keep it in the build. I love these little guys, they're inexpensive, and they work great! And, very easy to mount..





    That's about all I can do till I get the wheels. And, the rims arrived yesterday!!!

  15. #40
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    I'm enjoying this build. Thanks

  16. #41
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    Looking good!

    Can't wait to see the wheel build.

  17. #42
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    Sweet build going on here!

  18. #43
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    Well, I got my rims, got them laced up to some Hope Evo's. Since it's a 29'er, I went with straight gauge.. Honestly, I may revisit that decision when I can, they're a little heavier than I thought, 1700 grams, I was shooting for 1600 though..





    Let's put this bike together now shall we..

    Let's get the disks on, pretty simple, 6 bolts, use the little lock clips, they'll keep the bolts from loosening up. make sure you see the word "Top" or they'll just be extra weight. The bolts all have loctite on them, so, you can just screw them in with a torx wrench..





    Or, you can go my route... some things just take too long!





    Ok, did that to both wheels, lets get the cassette going. Thin coat of grease on the body, locate the large and small channels, and re-stack the cassette on the body. Thread the lock ring on, and tighten. Be careful not to twist the nut or the driver cuz the lock-ring is aluminum, and will strip or get gouged.











    If you wrap your rims with tape, you'll need to make a hole for the valve stem. Locate the hole and push something through it. It's easier than you might think to hit the wrong hole from the other side. (Wow, did I just say that??)

    Once you have the hole, put in the valve stem..







    put the o ring on, and tighten up the nut. Use fingers to tighten the nut, if you're out on the trail, and you need to remove the stem, you probably wont have a pair of pliers with you..

    Put the tire on, and two little red cups of Stan's...



    Seat the rest of the tire, and inflate with a compressor. I have a special tool I use for tubeless setups.




  19. #44
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    Put the rear wheel in. The two bolts that hold on the brake caliper can be loose at this point, you need to aline the caliper to the rotor. A trick to doing this is to stick a business card on each side of the rotor, keeping the pads off the rotor. Tighten the bolts and your brake should be alined. Also, the DT axle, once tight, the handle can be re positioned simply by pulling up and rotating.









  20. #45
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    I set the derailleur set screws before I put the chain on.. just easier to do that way...

    Hi and low on the rear..





    Then high and low on the front.





    I bottom out both shifters, pulling the cable tight, and tighten the end nut.

    I click through to make sure I have travel on both the front and the rear, then I click to big big.. I want to make sure the chain will reach. You can also go small small, and pull so the rear cage on the rear derailleur just put tension on it, but I like big big tight. As it worked out, no need to remove links. Woot!

    Make sure when putting on the 10 speed chain, you have the lettering out.

    It's easy to miss this..







    BAD



    GOOD



    Push the pin in with a chin tool til it clicks. Snap off the guide pin with some pliers, and spin through the gears. Make sure they all work.

    Back to the front wheel, the adjustment is a little tougher than the rear. remove the little cover, and adjust the QR15 axle to your desired position. Put the cover back.





    Next, get your 5mm, 4mm, 4mm torque and 3mm allens. Use the 4mm torque on the bars and anything spec-ing 5nm..stem..



    take each allen and go through the bike one bolt at a time and make sure everything is tight. Once you're done with the 5mm, go to the 4mm...and so on.

    Check the cranks and the pedals.. You get the idea.

    Ok, Im going to bed, tomorrow we'll tackle sag!

    Here's what she looks like now..

    Rode her around a little to get the creaks out of the wheels.. she's really nice.

    I'll get the seat adjusted and get the sag set, and we should be good!!




  21. #46
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    Great build. Thanks for posting.

  22. #47
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    What?! No final weight? We really have to wait till tomorrow!? Arghh... Cliff hanger of a build thread

  23. #48
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    Looks really nice and good job on the detailed build, I'm sure there's someone else out there who'll really appreciate it when they're doing there's. Curious why chose to use a pin instead of quick link on the chain? Not something I've "chosen" to do since I found out about quick links and never had issues.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Curious why chose to use a pin instead of quick link on the chain? Not something I've "chosen" to do since I found out about quick links and never had issues.
    Old habits die hard... I used to race DH and on two different occasions, we lost chains due to QL failures on our DH run's.. didn't play well with the chain guide. Once it cost me a win..literally..not maybe, really took first place from my grasp. It's so so hard to win on a national level, but that 2nd place, breaking that chain 100 yards from the finish... hurts still.

    Since then, always used a pin.

  25. #50
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    Yamadan you are inspirational. Thanks for such a detailed account with beautiful pics. I'll stick up pictures of an almost stock Turner Czar in a separate thread too
    Locals' Guide to North Shore Rides http://mtbtrails.ca/

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