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  1. #1
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    Tubeless leak around valve stem

    I have a set of WTB Laserdisc trail wheels I've set up ghetto tubeless with gorilla tape. I recently tore the sidewall on my front tire. Got a new one, tried setting it up, but air keeps gushing out around the valve stem. No idea why this is just starting, as I never touched the valve stem in changing the tires. I've tried retaping the rim, getting a new valve stem, tightening the bolt down with pliers, GOOP sealant around it, everything, and it still keeps happening! I've been unable to ride my MTB now for 3 weeks and it's driving me nuts! Any other ideas for me? I'm getting desparate! Don't make me go back to tubes! lol

  2. #2
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    I can't think of anything obvious, but here's a few ideas:

    Is it possible the rim was distorted or damaged in any way when the blow out occurred?

    Are you sure the stem seal seats completely around it's edges?

    Did you make the hole in the tape in the shape of an X using a razor and push the flaps down the hole?

    Did you try seating the stem in stans sealant?

    Was the inside of the rim super clean and free of burrs or irregularities, especially around the valve hole before you re-applied tape?

    Good luck, hope you get it figured out.
    Use it, use it, use it while you still have it.

  3. #3
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    I think the problems with ghetto tubeless is getting everything perfectly clean again. I ran into a similar problem and ended up going to a tube again because I could get all the sticky residue off again. Or at least I didn't feel like messing with it again.

  4. #4
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    Had the same exact problem with the same exact rims: I ended up replacing the rims with Stan's Arches, same ERD, easy swap, much lighter too.

    Never understood why it happened, but I couldn't fix it.
    "There is no A-line"
    Quadzilla

  5. #5
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    Automotive schrader valves ?



    These stopped all my leaking problems at the valve.

    And only $2 each

    Threaded like the presta but much sturdier and easier to inflate.


    one caveat: you'll need to drill out your rim's hole to 21/64" w/ a drill bit - which is fine if yer rims are wide enough.

    To save weight, I use a standard plastic schrader valve cap and only one of the nuts.

  6. #6
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    I don't want to critisize your setup or how you are going about tubeless...but it really is cheaper and easier in the long run to just do it right.

    1) NEVER EVER use plyers to tighten down the valve stem. You will pull the stem right through the rubber seal that its bonded to.

    2) For a leaking valve stem, try using contact cement where the valve seal makes contact with the rim. Let it dry before adding sealant.

    3) Place a small o-ring, if not included under the valve nut which seals the valve. Some come with it, some don't..but they are very cheap at Home Depot or Lowes.

    4) If you just want to do it right, and cheap. Go to a Specialized store (hopefully theres one close) and pick up Rovall Tubeless Tape, and use Stan's Sealant..its proven and still the number one means of going tubeless..unless you perfected a tubeless brew.
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  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=dubdryver;8178603]I don't want to critisize your setup or how you are going about tubeless...but it really is cheaper and easier in the long run to just do it right.

    1) NEVER EVER use plyers to tighten down the valve stem. You will pull the stem right through the rubber seal that its bonded to.

    2) For a leaking valve stem, try using contact cement where the valve seal makes contact with the rim. Let it dry before adding sealant.

    3) Place a small o-ring, if not included under the valve nut which seals the valve. Some come with it, some don't..but they are very cheap at Home Depot or Lowes.

    4) If you just want to do it right, and cheap. Go to a Specialized store (hopefully theres one close) and pick up Rovall Tubeless Tape, and use Stan's Sealant..its proven and still the number one means of going tubeless..unless you perfected a tubeless brew.[/QUOTE

    1. Noted. Never had a problem yet. Only used pliers after my fingers didn't get it tight enough. Neither valve stem has pulled out.

    2. Will try.

    3. Already have the o-ring there.

    4. I used Gorilla tape because the guys around here swear by it. Doubt the tape is the issue. I use Stans but it keeps gushing out around the valve, so I tried adding some GOOP since it's thicker. Didn't work.

    I'm gonna set it up with a tube so I can ride it tomorrow, but any other ideas would be great. I'm fresh out. I put 750 miles on this setup so far in the last 3 months no problem. If money wasn't an issue I'd get some Stans Crests, but that's holding off for my graduation gift to myself in December.

  8. #8
    M_S
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    An O ring to form a seal is good. I have also used a small square of an inner tube between the outside of the rim and the nut with good success.
    - Simon

  9. #9
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    I have no experience with Gorilla Tape, and I have heard of people using it, but the Roval Tape from a Specialized dealer costs around $20 and its enough to do like 8-10 wheels despite what the website says!
    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...jsp?spid=57937

    American Classic Valvestems are a gem...look great, and are cheaper than other brands @ $12.50/pair
    http://www.amclassic.com/store/page10.html

    I have converted many wheels tubeles..many not even designed for tubeless like the stock wheels on a GF Kaitai hybrid. With proper valves, sealant and tape...and ofcourse a viable tire, tubeless can be done on nearly every tire except for road/CX types. Could be done on CX tires..just never tried it.

    You have sealant...so really $35 isn't terribly bad.
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  10. #10
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    I have had the same sort of issue with WTB Speed Disks. One thing that I have learned that has not been mentioned here yet is that you need to set the tape (stan's Roval or Gorilla) with a tube or stan's rim strip before you mount up the tire tubeless. I typically let mine set overnight with a tube at the max pressure listed on the tire

  11. #11
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    I used to have the same problem with WTB speeddisc, I went to the split tube instead of gorilla, works just fine and easy I did not look back.
    In my workshop, dirty hands is a state of mind

  12. #12
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    [QUOTE=ryguy135;8178667]
    Quote Originally Posted by dubdryver View Post
    1) NEVER EVER use plyers to tighten down the valve stem.
    ..........and if you do make sure you have said pliers available on the trail for the inevitable flat repair involving a tube and removal of existing valve stem.

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