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Thread: Trek Sawyer

  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by 202cycle
    So far, there is no SS only right dropout, so we may just have to cut the hanger off.
    You need the dropout from a Rig or SS Marlin. They use the same dropouts as the Sawyer.

  2. #202
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    Unfortunately, you would have to purchase a Rig or SS Marlin to get the dropout. Trek has a part number, but no part, not even in the warranty dept.

  3. #203
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    JHK's proto belt drive sawyer:

  4. #204
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    Do you have a link where I can see more of those photos, or is that the only one?

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    That one came from JHKs twitter feed, no more info on it.

  6. #206
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    me no hate the crivitz

    just came back to say that I finally threw on the stock crivitz bars with lock-on grips and I absolutely love how they feel on this bike. actually, it felt like an entirely new bike compared to when i had the carbon syntace bars and ergon grips. the shape of the crivitz feels similar to these old school bars on my ross, which i like a lot. this is how the sawyer is suppose to ridden, imo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Trek Sawyer-img_0859.jpg  

    Trek Sawyer-img_1875.jpg  


  7. #207
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    i had my crivitz set up with a 110mm stem and swapped out for an 80mm stem, same rise-17degree, felt just right, this was coming from lo-rise bonty RL.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.

  8. #208
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    Mine is in
    Going to wait till after Christmas to pic it up.
    I want to wait and see what Santa gets me.
    21" 30.05lbs on the Park scale.
    Bone stock complete with all reflectors.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by tw3nty9er
    just came back to say that I finally threw on the stock crivitz bars with lock-on grips and I absolutely love how they feel on this bike. actually, it felt like an entirely new bike compared to when i had the carbon syntace bars and ergon grips. the shape of the crivitz feels similar to these old school bars on my ross, which i like a lot. this is how the sawyer is suppose to ridden, imo.

    So the Ergons didn't work too good off-road on a rigid fork? I have a set of Bontrager XXX grips on right now and they are way too thin for a rigid fork...I was thinking ESI Chunkys but they are a PIA to take off once on, so while in the experimentation stage (making the choice between keeping the TruVativ that is currently installed or the Crivitz), I want a grip that goes on and comes off fairly easily. The stock lock-ons are super hard and suck even with a suspension fork....I was thinking a set of the Ergon GP-1 Biocork.

    -r

  10. #210
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    ODI Rogue gets high marks

  11. #211
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    picked up my 21" yesterday. Quadzilla81 is dead on, stock 30lbs. as expected,she is a TANK! i suspect it would be pretty easy to lighten up if you wanted. wheelset felt heavy when i was changing the rubber. after noticing the weight, i noticed it is looooong! the wheelbase is 45.5". i dont know, that may not be all that long, but my regular trail bike is a custom Black Cat singlespeed which has a wheelbase of 42" and is just over 23lbs. so this is noticeably a different beast...as i expected.

    so i changed out the rubber, the saddle, the seatpost, the stem, the grips, and the handlebars (look for all the take-offs in the mtbr classifieds soon!). this is not gonna be a trail bike for me, it will be my casual around town bike that may see me drop it off on some urban trails now and then for short blast to get the heart rate humming. it could make a good 'trainer' bike, if i got in shape running this up the steep hills, i could really make the 6 lbs lighter Black Cat scream up hill!

    so it is heavy and it is long...but it still has cool feel and ride to it. i cant help but think of a leatherman tool when i ride it...while it may not be the best tool for the job, it is capable of doing alot of things when you are in a pinch. cool retro look, can easily go singlespeed, and can even go belt drive if you wanna give that a shot! i suspect the "potential" is a big selling point for most people on this bike, and i doubt too many people are buying it as thier primary trail ride.

    the 8th grader in me thinks of it kinda like a 'Fat Chick' of the bike world...while you may not want her to be your ONLY girlfriend, she does have a great personality and is alot of fun to have around.

    ...i better stop after that remark.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by tw3nty9er
    just came back to say that I finally threw on the stock crivitz bars with lock-on grips and I absolutely love how they feel on this bike. actually, it felt like an entirely new bike compared to when i had the carbon syntace bars and ergon grips. the shape of the crivitz feels similar to these old school bars on my ross, which i like a lot. this is how the sawyer is suppose to ridden, imo.

    So the Ergons didn't work too good off-road on a rigid fork? I have a set of Bontrager XXX grips on right now and they are way too thin for a rigid fork...I was thinking ESI Chunkys but they are a PIA to take off once on, so while in the experimentation stage (making the choice between keeping the TruVativ that is currently installed or the Crivitz), I want a grip that goes on and comes off fairly easily. The stock lock-ons are super hard and suck even with a suspension fork....I was thinking a set of the Ergon GP-1 Biocork.

    -r

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by oclvframe
    So the Ergons didn't work too good off-road on a rigid fork? I have a set of Bontrager XXX grips on right now and they are way too thin for a rigid fork...I was thinking ESI Chunkys but they are a PIA to take off once on, so while in the experimentation stage (making the choice between keeping the TruVativ that is currently installed or the Crivitz), I want a grip that goes on and comes off fairly easily. The stock lock-ons are super hard and suck even with a suspension fork....I was thinking a set of the Ergon GP-1 Biocork.

    -r
    Ergon grips work just fine on a rigid bike, but that said if you didn't like the Ergon grips, changing to the GP-1 BioKork won't change your mind. They feel nearly identical to the regular GP-1's.

    If you want a cushy, larger grip, there is no better choice than a good ol' Oury grip.

    I also like Ergon GA-1's which do not have the paddle shape. They work well for aggressive riding and single speed.
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  14. #214
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    Just picked my Sawyer up last night and love it so far great design and super comfortable. I also didn't like the stock grips, swapped them out for ODI rouges. Excellent grip, soft and real easy to take on and off. Have them on my singlespeed also and never had an issue.

  15. #215
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    Just built mine up 17.5". It's a frame only build and will be run singlespeed. It's right around 22lbs complete, only missing a chain (waiting for bike shop to open tomorrow for a new chain). That's acceptable for me. The only things I kept on it were the frame and handlebar.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Trek Sawyer-sawyer-no-chain.jpg  

    Last edited by smoen81; 12-25-2010 at 01:36 PM.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoisonDartFrog
    ODI Rogue gets high marks
    I was at my local shop searching out some ODI Rogues....found them. While looking at them, I was talking to a couple of the shop guys to get their opinions. The Rogues were definitely far more rubbery feeling than the stock grips or many other lock-ons. As we talked, though, I asked about good ole Oury grips. Well, as luck would have it, they had both the regular Ourys and a set of lock-on Oury....now the dilemma...the Rouges or the Ourys. Well, I went for the Ourys since I've always had good luck with them. As I was swapping everything over last night, I went to open the package and guess what....the Oury lock-ons are made by none-other than ODI! They're basically nothing more than the ODI Rouge with the traditional Oury block style. Win-Win!

    I have yet to go off road with the Crivitz handlebar....initial impression around the street is that they'll be comfy although they've increased my reach a bit. I'll know for sure as soon as the rain lets up and I get a chance to trail test them.

    Thanks for all the grip suggestions!!

    -r

  17. #217
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    Ok, Weight weenies look away now. This is not for the light hearted.

    Just stripped down my 21" and here are the weights.
    A bit more than I had expected
    21" frame 7lbs 12oz.
    Matching fork 2lbs 13oz.
    This going to be my road warrior so that is fine with me.
    I just cannot get into the skinny tired road bike thing.
    I have some 2.35" Big Apples for this baby.
    Just got in my P35 rims. and I am thinking of running the Alfine 8spd.

  18. #218
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    Retro coolness sure weighs a lot

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoen81
    Just built mine up 17.5". It's a frame only build and will be run singlespeed. It's right around 22lbs complete,........
    I'd love to see your bike on a scale...Quadzilla81's frame and fork alone came out to 10lbs 9 ozs. His is much bigger though.
    I'm unique, just like everyone else....

  20. #220
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    ^ ^ ^ ^ Yes it does.

    21" frame 7lbs 12oz.
    Matching fork 2lbs 13oz.

    oof.

    whelll... it is a whole bike, geared and disc'ed for $1400...
    "I think it's cool how the best line is also usually the most beautiful line" --Kurt F, Tamarancho, Safety Meeting

  21. #221
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    Holy Moly

    Quote Originally Posted by Quadzilla81
    Ok, Weight weenies look away now. This is not for the light hearted.

    Just stripped down my 21" and here are the weights.
    A bit more than I had expected
    21" frame 7lbs 12oz.
    Matching fork 2lbs 13oz.
    This going to be my road warrior so that is fine with me.
    I just cannot get into the skinny tired road bike thing.
    I have some 2.35" Big Apples for this baby.
    Just got in my P35 rims. and I am thinking of running the Alfine 8spd.
    I had a 18" Surly Instigator for years and the frame weighed, if memory serves, around six and a half pounds. It was a super fun bike but the weight did get annoying after awhile especially after riding other sturdy steel bikes a pound lighter. Seven and a three quarter pounds is really surprising even considering it's a larger frame and a 29 incher. I'm sure it will still be a super fun and great riding frame in the application you're planning though. It'll probably be sturdy enough to remain dent-free and to survive the 2012 megapocalypse too.

  22. #222
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    I don't want to be a total buzz-kill... but at this weight, at the price... what is the value other than the "cool" factor?

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by OmaHaq
    I don't want to be a total buzz-kill... but at this weight, at the price... what is the value other than the "cool" factor?
    Good question, but custom makers like Retrotec have niches making bikes like this, so someone's buying them. Time will tell if it's big enough for Trek to bother.

  24. #224
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    it's just a bike man, just like women, different strokes for different folks
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

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  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee
    Good question, but custom makers like Retrotec have niches making bikes like this, so someone's buying them. Time will tell if it's big enough for Trek to bother.
    this guy on my Hunter at SOC '08
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Trek Sawyer-img_0271.jpg  

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  26. #226
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    Originally posted by SelfPropelledDevo: this guy on my Hunter at SOC '08
    It should be noted that Rick Hunter has been noted as being one of Gary Fisher's favorite custom builders. So, I can totally see why he admired your bike. (I have always liked it as well)

    I'm sure Gary has always had a soft spot for cruiser designs since he got his feet wet mountain biking on a Schwinn. This sort of design has popped up here and there in Fisher's line throughout the years, which may reinforce that idea for some. It certainly has for me.
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  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitar Ted
    It should be noted that Rick Hunter has been noted as being one of Gary Fisher's favorite custom builders. So, I can totally see why he admired your bike. (I have always liked it as well)

    I'm sure Gary has always had a soft spot for cruiser designs since he got his feet wet mountain biking on a Schwinn. This sort of design has popped up here and there in Fisher's line throughout the years, which may reinforce that idea for some. It certainly has for me.
    absolutely
    with the notions of 18lb rigid 29ers
    carbon
    and the thought of a double top tubed bike with a glove box, complete with stainless steel tumble lock a-la-briefcase style... perhaps a tweed lining...
    come on! you know the style begs for the tech

    I suppose a full rigid carbon 29er, disc brakes, locking glove box... urban/dirt/touring do it all.

    I can only hope
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  28. #228
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    Chain Tensioner Bolt??

    Hey guys, the sawyer is a nice looking bike. Does it have a bolt for tensioning the chain??

    Thanks.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by BunnV
    I'd love to see your bike on a scale...Quadzilla81's frame and fork alone came out to 10lbs 9 ozs. His is much bigger though.

    If this means anything I'll post my build list then, I'll try to snap a scale photo.

    Frame: Trek sawyer
    Fork: black sheep Ti The fork is about half the weight of the stock fork
    headset: Chris king pewter
    Seatpost: black sheep Ti
    Wheelset: Stans 355 built to Dt 240's
    Tires: Schwalbe RR and Kenda Karma run tubeless
    Crank: XTR 970 Cermikoat (grey)
    Stem: Bontrager Race X lite Ceramikoat grey http://www.ceramikoat.com/ for the stem and cranks
    Handle bar: crivits
    Grips: easy Foam
    Brakes: Paul love levers, and Avid BB7's
    pedals: shimano XT
    Saddle: Brooks Swift Ti
    Chain: Sram 8 speed
    Skewers: front is Controltech Ti and rear is KCNC Ti
    Chainring is a blackspire 34t and Cog is a Niner 20t
    Bolts are all ti

    I just weighed it with the 8speed chain added and new sealant added to both tires, it weighs 23lbs 3oz
    Last edited by smoen81; 01-03-2011 at 06:54 PM.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirt-nerd
    Hey guys, the sawyer is a nice looking bike. Does it have a bolt for tensioning the chain??

    Thanks.
    Yes, It has a split drop out on the drive side (For belt drive) and both sides have a sliding dropout design. with built in tensioners.

  31. #231
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    For BunnV Here's a photo of the scale weight after chain and sealant added. As i said above around 22lbs was without the Chain, sorry if the way i wrote it made it seem as though it was 22lbs complete. I only have my iphone for photos, so this is about the best photo I can get with the phone focusing on the scale, anything further away you can't read the scale at all.

    Right now I'm trying to figure out how to work out a rattle that is within the center horizontal tube. The tube doesn't appear to be open on the ends, so whatever got in their was during welding, and it rattles if I move the bike vertical. Just a little annoyance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Trek Sawyer-sawyer-weight.jpg  


  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoen81
    For BunnV Here's a photo of the scale weight after chain and sealant added. As i said above around 22lbs was without the Chain, sorry if the way i wrote it made it seem as though it was 22lbs complete...
    No need to apologize smoen81 . 23lbs is definitely "around" 22lbs. Either way, your bike is sweet. Thanks for the pictures. Now I know whatís possible with a Sawyer.
    I'm unique, just like everyone else....

  33. #233
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    Test fit my cranks with the new spindle.
    I think they will work with the retro theme.
    Needs different bolts though.

  34. #234
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    Had a chance to ride the Sawyer the other day,and was honestly shocked. I thought it would feel clunky,harsh,and slow,but knew after a quick loop around the block that it would be my next bike. It feels long,but rides quick.

  35. #235
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    anyone have any suggestions on how to get at the middle horizontal tube. I've tried everything to try and get at it. I'm trying to get a small piece of metal or something out from inside the tube and have had no luck so far. It's been down to the frame and shaken over and over and over at all angles with no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I can't even tell if the tube has any openings to the downtube. It does not appear to have any openings into the seat tube. Thanks.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoen81
    anyone have any suggestions on how to get at the middle horizontal tube. I've tried everything to try and get at it. I'm trying to get a small piece of metal or something out from inside the tube and have had no luck so far. It's been down to the frame and shaken over and over and over at all angles with no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I can't even tell if the tube has any openings to the downtube. It does not appear to have any openings into the seat tube. Thanks.
    I hate to say it but I think you need to get a warranty replacement frame. Sounds like whatever is in the frame is in there for good....
    I'm unique, just like everyone else....

  37. #237
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    I'm 5'7" and have to cuff my 30" inseam Levi 501's to keep from stepping on the hems and fraying them out. I tend to prefer typical 26er MTB frames in 16" to 17",and 18" is definitely larger than I like.

    Since this would by my first 29er, and the smallest size is 17.5" - should I be worried? The non-trad frame design gives me pause... I do plan on singletracking on some rocky trails and don't want to bust my nads, as it were. Also would be using platform pedals and skateboard sneakers most of the time.

    Already looked at the Trek geometry specs and frame sizing chart. Not certain enough to make an online order. I do like the bike if I can get it for $1100-1200, and would be doing an Alfine 11spd buildup after about a year. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as Trek hasn't replied to my directly emailing them as of yet.

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by stratosrally
    I'm 5'7" and have to cuff my 30" inseam Levi 501's to keep from stepping on the hems and fraying them out. I tend to prefer typical 26er MTB frames in 16" to 17",and 18" is definitely larger than I like.

    Since this would by my first 29er, and the smallest size is 17.5" - should I be worried? The non-trad frame design gives me pause... I do plan on singletracking on some rocky trails and don't want to bust my nads, as it were. Also would be using platform pedals and skateboard sneakers most of the time.

    Already looked at the Trek geometry specs and frame sizing chart. Not certain enough to make an online order. I do like the bike if I can get it for $1100-1200, and would be doing an Alfine 11spd buildup after about a year. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as Trek hasn't replied to my directly emailing them as of yet.
    Do you not have a Trek dealer close by that you could go see how you fit on on other 29er models? Seems to me that you should really swing your leg over one before taking a shot in the dark.

    -r

  39. #239
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    I have one at my shop and those bars are super comfy, I rode it down the road a couple miles and they feel great, we have a twisty short trail as well and I liked how the bars felt. gonna try and get one of these.

  40. #240
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    Is this the bike with GFs new "Slippery Hamster" geo?
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  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669
    Is this the bike with GFs new "Slippery Hamster" geo?
    What? It's G2. Same as the rest.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoen81
    anyone have any suggestions on how to get at the middle horizontal tube. I've tried everything to try and get at it. I'm trying to get a small piece of metal or something out from inside the tube and have had no luck so far. It's been down to the frame and shaken over and over and over at all angles with no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I can't even tell if the tube has any openings to the downtube. It does not appear to have any openings into the seat tube. Thanks.
    Both bikes that we received had debris in them as well. We removed the seat post and were able to remove it that way on both bikes. We had already greased the seat tube and all the little metal bits got stuck in the grease which scored the end up the post when we tried to reinsert it. Now we know to shake the crap out of them before greasing the seat tube

  43. #243
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    A stroke of inspiration just hit

    Quote Originally Posted by prphoto
    And then the Inglis Retrotec Triple
    Retrotecs are beautiful bikes but what would a bike brand called Retro-Smegma look like? Probably not so nice. Any budding entrepreneurs feel free to use that name.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by stratosrally
    I'm 5'7" and have to cuff my 30" inseam Levi 501's to keep from stepping on the hems and fraying them out. I tend to prefer typical 26er MTB frames in 16" to 17",and 18" is definitely larger than I like.

    Since this would by my first 29er, and the smallest size is 17.5" - should I be worried? The non-trad frame design gives me pause... I do plan on singletracking on some rocky trails and don't want to bust my nads, as it were. Also would be using platform pedals and skateboard sneakers most of the time.

    Already looked at the Trek geometry specs and frame sizing chart. Not certain enough to make an online order. I do like the bike if I can get it for $1100-1200, and would be doing an Alfine 11spd buildup after about a year. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as Trek hasn't replied to my directly emailing them as of yet.
    I'm 5'8" with a 31" inseam and bought the 17.5". This bike has a higher standover than any of my other frames. To the point where it is touching my groin while I stand over the twin top tubes. That's with flat sneakers on. The bike fits well, but one of the first comments I made was how much higher the standover was than I was used to. I think that the high standover is a result of the aesthetically designed curving top tubes. I hope that helps.

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoen81
    anyone have any suggestions on how to get at the middle horizontal tube. I've tried everything to try and get at it. I'm trying to get a small piece of metal or something out from inside the tube and have had no luck so far. It's been down to the frame and shaken over and over and over at all angles with no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I can't even tell if the tube has any openings to the downtube. It does not appear to have any openings into the seat tube. Thanks.
    Air hose and pressure gun is what I have seen to remove media lodged in frames.

  46. #246
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    slippery hamster...

    thats f-ing funny!

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoen81
    I'm 5'8" with a 31" inseam and bought the 17.5". This bike has a higher standover than any of my other frames. To the point where it is touching my groin while I stand over the twin top tubes. That's with flat sneakers on. The bike fits well, but one of the first comments I made was how much higher the standover was than I was used to. I think that the high standover is a result of the aesthetically designed curving top tubes. I hope that helps.
    Many thanks, the difference created by the twin curved top tubes is exactly what I was concerned with. I appreciate you mentioning that you were wearing sneakers, as I stopped using light hikers because they were too stiff in the ankle area. I'll look at other bikes with more of sloping top tube design... I do like a longer wheelbase & chainstay bike with a tallish, somewhat slack front end. And steel with a rigid fork is a must!

  48. #248
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    Today's Trek Sawyer

    I couldn't resist, pulled the trigger after my LBS made a deal to strip off the components group and wheels. I think she's a piece of art, and affordable one unlike a custom Hunter or a Jones Spaceframe (not to suggest that the Sawyer rides like one or that the Spaceframe is not worth, just for me I can't justify the cost).

    First impressions are that it's solid, but slow handling. I guess the technical term would be understeer, like a slow response - sorta flops over when you make a slow turn, whereas my Niner MCR with a 80 mm Reba is quick. But that's not really a complaint, just an observation - I do kinda like the way it feels, and you get used to it pretty quickly. Paint job is impressive, seems like it's will not chip or scratch too easily, though time will truly tell on that one. And I'm digging the crivitz handlebar, have to agree with tw3nty9er that that's how she should be ridden - with a crivitz or similar bar.

    I'm no expert, but to me this bike feels more like an urban cruiser than a technical trail hardtail. Not that you can't hit the trails with it, but again compared with my MCR it just doesn't feel as agile and quick for tight, twisty, rooty singletrack with logs and other fun stuff. Should suit my purpose perfectly: an all-rounder - back roads to gravel roads to paved pathways to singletrack and back again.

    May be a SS conversion in her future - hard to resist with that design.






  49. #249
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    BmoreKen, congrats! She just gets better with every ride too. Seriously, once you get a good feel for the way she handles and get used to her bumps it's a completely joy to ride. I've been commuting about 5 miles everyday through the snow with mine and this is easily my favorite part of the day. It just rolls so smoothly, imo. also, with regard to the handling, maybe it understeers just a tad but I grown to love it and think it makes for a very stable a secure feeling ride.

    side note: i just replaced my brooks with the stock saddle and it's actually quite nice. might be my new favorite mtn saddle.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by tw3nty9er
    side note: i just replaced my brooks with the stock saddle and it's actually quite nice. might be my new favorite mtn saddle.
    I'm a big fan of the Bonty saddles

    And BTW, really dig the way you set your bike up, with the silver cranks and headset, etc. Looks sweet.

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