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  1. #26
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    [QUOTE=Kiwi_GR_Biker;10376005]
    Quote Originally Posted by WarG View Post

    My Mandarin (or is it Cantonese?) is pretty good so I'll translate. LOL

    For that budget you are best off buying a hardtail i.e. a front suspension bike not a full suspension.

    LB likes Marin hardtails.

    The rear derailluer is the gear shifter at the back of the bike. The rear gear shifter is generally regarded as the most important gear. The following are the basic Shimano gears from low level to the best:

    Altus - low level best for bike paths
    Acera - next level up ok for commuter and entry level trail riding
    Alivio - better than Acera
    Deore - generally regarded as the entry level for real mountain bike trail riding
    SLX - next level up, smoother shifting, lighter weight
    XT - top of the line for everyone but serious racers
    XTR - racing kit, lightweight & expensive

    So what LB is saying is get at least SLX or better. Chain slap is the chain slapping against the chainstay when you go over bumps. Better derailleurs reduce this chainslap.

    Avid Elixir brakes are not recommended. I've read quite a few negative reviews of these. No personal experience but supposedly not good and Shimano brakes recommended.

    I hope this translates the previous post from Chinese to English however bear in mind I'm a noob too so most of this is based on reading and hearsay, not personal experience. Still, hope it helps.

    Thanks Kiwi,

    I really appreciate your response. Everything you wrote was new to me and it's great hearing from someone with experience.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by LB412 View Post
    A new bike at that price will have to be a hardtail. There are others on this site who can make better recs for that type of rig. That said I like the Marin HTs a lot. Three basic points:

    - try to get a SLX or above rear derailluer with shadow (reduces chain slap)
    - Avoid Avid Elixer brakes as the pad squeal will drive you crazy over the long term.
    - rear tire is a difference maker when it comes to ease of climbing. Live with the tire the bike comes with but replace when the funds are available or wear demands.

    Also, LBS will still work on your used purchased bike for a modest fee. Many will perform free modest adjustments, etc for customers who regularly shop the store regardless of where the bike was purchased. Something to consider.
    Thanks LB,

    You guys on this forum have taught me a lot. Next time I step into a my lbs, I'll be asking better questions.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    If you plan to make mountain biking part of your weekly routine then spend $1000.00 on a hardtail to get decent parts that wont break. Don't go full suspension unless you are willing to drop about $1500.00. If you are just testing the waters then by all means get the $400-$500 special but you will be getting rid of it quickly and upgrading if you stay in the sport. Bikes depreciate quickly so it is best to spend the money once on something you plan to keep for several years. Another option is to buy used and get a really good value for your money and then read up on how to tune and care for the bike. In all reality you will probably learn to tune the bike much better than most bike shops in just several months of tinkering.
    Hi Blk,

    I do plan to fully embrace this sport. Is there anyone bike you recommend in the 800-1100 range?

    Thank you

  4. #29
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    To everyone who has taken the time to help with the process of choosing the right bike for me, thank you very very much. If anyone has a recommendation on a particular bike, I'd love to read about it. I plan on reading as much as I can this wk and spend the weekend visiting my lbs.

    Thank you all.

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