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Thread: "Tai"-Jones

  1. #401
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    I have both 70mm Jones 26" wheel with a variety of fat tyres and a 50mm Rabbit Hole/Knard - personally, I love all the options and choose whichever tyre/ wheel size I feel like and appreciate the differences in ride styles available - it really is like owning several bikes. A Knardy Nate must surely be just a matter of time, certainly on my wish list, as would be a big fat huskerdu. My most used combos at the moment are BFL or HUDU with a racing ralf at the rear, or Knard, also with an RR at the rear..

    If I were doing it again I would opt for a 65mm Marge Light rim as it is about 200g lighter than the 70mm Jones rim.

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futon River Crossing View Post
    A Knardy Nate must surely be just a matter of time,
    The Knard fills the rear of the Krampus frame pretty well without any Nate-esque knobbies. That doesn't leave Surly much room back there for a knobby 3" tire and I wonder if they'll spend the $$ to build a tire that won't fit their 29+ frame?

    There is room in the front for a bigger tire on the Krampus and they could shrink the casing down to account for the knobs in a 2.7-2.8 tire.

    It will be interesting to see what they do with 29+ rubber.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futon River Crossing View Post
    If I were doing it again I would opt for a 65mm Marge Light rim as it is about 200g lighter than the 70mm Jones rim.
    This is interesting. I went from a 50m Uma (I think) to a 100mm rim after talking to Jeff, instead of the RH. I think I made a mistake. I wish I could have ridden them first. I wish I could ride a 65mm or 70mm rim back to back with the RH. I don't want or need to switch wheels, but I whish I had something different because the 100mm rim just doesn't make me happy right now.

  4. #404
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    So I did a back-to-back test with my Jones today switching from a RH/Knard to 50mm Jones rim/Husker Du. I ran a loop on my locals, took 10 minutes to make the swap between and adjust some spacers, then made another loop. About as direct a comparison as one can make. The trails are pretty techy, with tons of 6 inch to 12 inch roots. It's a rough ride. This is an opinion piece only. Experience will vary. I'm not a great rider. Before I begin, it was 84 degrees on the Oregon Coast today. It is almost never 84 degrees on the Oregon Coast, not even in August. I just had to get that in.

    So really I'm going to mostly focus on the fat front. I really couldn't recommend going much wider on the rim than 65-70mm on the front rim unless you're riding snow/sand. For trail riding, I'd stick to either the 50mm lightweight fat rim options, or the Marge Lite. The Husker Du is pretty perfect as a fat trail tire. And the tire can be had at 1200 grams or less. This means you can have a fat front set-up within 250grams of the RH/Knard set-up. Maybe less if you get real finicky. I don't have a scale to weigh both my front wheels, but if I hit my LBS soon, I'll weigh them and report back. I won't be surprised if they're close.

    I feel on my local trails the only major advantage of the RH/Knard is climbing, but by just dropping down one gear, I got in the ballpark of the RH/Knard using my fat front. I don't have to do long climbs on my locals, just short, punchy ones, so the advantage to the RH/Knard is not game-changing. For my tastes, the steering is just too quick/herky on the Knard. I don't know if it's tire patch contact, or the Knard tread, or if the Jones geo is thrown a bit with the higher Knard up front, or what, but I didn't/don't notice the sensation as much on a regular 29 rim and tire. This is surely a personal reaction, and I doubt it holds true for other riders. This all leads to the Knard itself. I am not wild about it. I'm a clyde and running the 120tpi, so it's hard for me to get the pressures down to levels that might improve grip and maximize cush. As soon as I get low, and start heading down a steep, the tire folds/collapses. The window on proper pressure is pretty small for me. That said, I think the Knard is a really good all-rounder, and for riders around the average weight, and who don't obsess about grip, it's probably top notch. I wish it were a half inch wider. For it's weight and tread, it is very good. Maybe just not my cup of tea. Well, I guess I was going to talk too much about the RH/Knard after all.

    So the fat front. Clear winner downhill. Clear winner in comfort/cush. For me, my fat front set-up works better with the Jones geo. You guys know what I mean when I say the bike reacts to minimal input from the rider. My fat front rewards that advantage more than my RH/Knard. I have no idea why. My fat front is not sluggish in turns at all. Only climbing, but even then it's not bad. On flats and mild grades, the fat front rolls better via centrifugal momentum. The fat front can go over/through anything, and I don't feel nearly as confident on the Knard. Sure I have to get off the bike push it uphill a bit more on the fat front, but I also smile a lot more over the course of a ride.

    Basic analogy, think of the difference between a small, sporty, standard transmission sports car and a big, luxury, sport sedan. The RH/Knard requires me to pay attention, pick better lines, correct/mind the steering, and stops and starts quicker. Feels a little unsafe and dangerous. The fat front hugs the turns and just cruises with one finger steering. Never feels like it's out of my control, so I feel more comfortable. I relax and enjoy.

    So knowing what I know now, I likely wouldn't have ponied up the cash to get a RH/Knard to go along with my fat front. I just don't see the differences as game-changing. Don't tell my wife. Now that I have, I will try and maximize the benefits of the RH by trying a variety of tires on it. I have a Chunky Monkey tire which is real big and cushy, so I'll see if I like it up front. Also, I'll try the Knard tubeless. Maybe Surly will come out with some new tires. Options are cool.

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow Danger View Post
    I really couldn't recommend going much wider on the rim than 65-70mm on the front rim unless you're riding snow/sand. For trail riding, I'd stick to either the 50mm lightweight fat rim options, or the Marge Lite.
    You are killing me. Now I have to find someone who needs a 100mm Jones wheel...

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wish I Were Riding View Post
    You are killing me. Now I have to find someone who needs a 100mm Jones wheel...
    I'm pretty sure my opinion strays quite far into the subjective zone. Just to mess with your mind a bit more, have you considered building up a front wheel on a regular 29er rim like the P35. You could get the Paul Whub for around $130. The P-35 rim around $80. Spokes and nipples put you around $250 total. FInd somebody to build it for you, and you could come in under $300. You could run any 29er tire, including the Knard. Then you keep your fat front. You could have it all.

  7. #407
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    FWIW - I run P35 and 29x3 Knard. I've run a Larry before, but I like the quicker steering of the Knard better. I run around 12-14psi and its perfect out here in the west.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    FWIW - I run P35 and 29x3 Knard. I've run a Larry before, but I like the quicker steering of the Knard better. I run around 12-14psi and its perfect out here in the west.
    No problems with the P35/K combo with the tire feeling like it will fold over or getting too squirmy?

  9. #409
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    Not for me. It's definitely less firm feeling than my other bike with 2.3" tire up front, but I've never felt like the tire would fold over or that there was too much squishiness. I really love the set up.

    Sorry to over complicate your conundrum. I really think it's personal pref. You may just have to dive in.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    Sorry to over complicate your conundrum. I really think it's personal pref. You may just have to dive in.
    Thanks for the info. I already have a Flow on a wide hub, but I probably won't be using that. I think I have several wide hub wheels I actually need to sell now unfortunately... and I may just go back to my 50mm rimmed wheel for now instead of trying more new $$$ things. :-(

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wish I Were Riding View Post
    Thanks for the info. I already have a Flow on a wide hub, but I probably won't be using that. I think I have several wide hub wheels I actually need to sell now unfortunately... and I may just go back to my 50mm rimmed wheel for now instead of trying more new $$$ things. :-(
    So what/which rim combos do you have for your Jones? You have a Clownshoe and a Flow, right? What else?

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow Danger View Post
    So what/which rim combos do you have for your Jones? You have a Clownshoe and a Flow, right? What else?
    I have a Flow (haven't used), a 50mm (not sure which maybe an Uma?), and now a 100mm (also don't know what kind). I guess I have a lot wheels, and all I know is they all have Jones hubs.

  13. #413
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    Oh, you're set then. I thought you just had a Clownshoe only for some reason. If you come into some extra cash, just put a Husker Du on your 50mm rim, and you'll save at least 500 grams off your Clownshoe/Fat Knard set up. Probably more because you're likely using a super fat/heavy tube in your clownshoe. Use a qtubes superlight tube in with a Husker, and I bet you can shave almost 800 grams of weight from that clownshoe set-up. That'll cure sluggishness.

  14. #414
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    I have a Marge Lite/Paul/Husker Du fat front and a P-35/Jones hub/WWLT 2.55 and I swear I can't tell a difference in weight (sans actually measuring them on a scale).
    Enjoy the ride!

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by LBIkid View Post
    I have a Marge Lite/Paul/Husker Du fat front and a P-35/Jones hub/WWLT 2.55 and I swear I can't tell a difference in weight (sans actually measuring them on a scale).
    I don't have my fat front set up anymore to measure, but you're right--they're both pretty close in weight. However, on-trail steering was a different story. Fat steered much too slow for me.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by LBIkid View Post
    I have a Marge Lite/Paul/Husker Du fat front and a P-35/Jones hub/WWLT 2.55 and I swear I can't tell a difference in weight (sans actually measuring them on a scale).
    Do they ride differently for you? How so?

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow Danger View Post
    Do they ride differently for you? How so?
    Very much so. I enjoy the fat front much more than the 29er front in all but really technical sections. The fat front is definitely more fun for me. I run it around 10 psi and it rolls over anything. The only time I did not like the fat front was on a particularly technical trail that offers virtually no "down time". In certain parts of that trail, I felt like I was dragging the fat front up hills, though that could have been in part to my exhaustion at that point. I nearly never run the 29er front wheel - JJ advised that that would happen and he was right.
    Enjoy the ride!

  18. #418
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    I surprised Jeff advised you to go for a 100 mm rim - AFAIK - he doesn't run one himself much (at all?) and if you need the floatation for snow, then you'll need it on the back too ...

    In my opinion a 65/72mm rim is the best choice as it enables a wider choice of tyres, you really have to try a BFL at 7.5psi, you just can't do this on a 50mm rim (yes, i have tried!) also I'm looking forward to tying out a Bud as well.

    As said above these are all subjective opinions, subject to our own trail conditions etc etc

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futon River Crossing View Post
    I surprised Jeff advised you to go for a 100 mm rim - AFAIK
    Well I measured and was surprised to see my rim is really a 72mm rim. It's really a nice wheel, but I seem to have lost something with the Jones, and I can't seem to put my finger on it. The wheel is really the only change though so...

  20. #420
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    Went for a ride a couple days ago on my hardtail SS, which had been neglected for a while. I've been hitting this one trail by my house with a fast, flowy downhill section with some techy spots. Half way down, I was sure missing the Jones. The HT climbed a bit better due to the lighter weight, but also because I've got 2.4 Ardent out back on Blunt 35 on the Jones. I may go to a lighter rear set up. Maybe a Nobby Nic 2.35 or RR 2.4.

  21. #421
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    The main thing I found when I first put the 72mm rim on was, it was incredibly important to get the tyre on perfectly - if the tyre wasn't on straight, the bike behaved really badly, I found the best way was to lubricate the rim with washing up liquid and then put in 30 psi to get the tyre seated correctly.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futon River Crossing View Post
    The main thing I found when I first put the 72mm rim on was, it was incredibly important to get the tyre on perfectly - if the tyre wasn't on straight, the bike behaved really badly, I found the best way was to lubricate the rim with washing up liquid and then put in 30 psi to get the tyre seated correctly.
    That's funny. I've almost convinced myself that I have a bad 26" Knard because I couldn't get it straight on my rim. I basically gave up (I'm pretty lazy and I tried hard 3 times). The tire has a wobble that drives me crazy on the road, but I don't think I can tell in the dirt. Maybe I can?

  23. #423
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    got a couple of short rides, nothing too definitive yet, but it works pretty well. i like it better than a 26x4" tyre: it rides lighter and it suits the geo better than the smaller-than-29" fat front wheel id say... more as it coalesces...

    Last edited by dRjOn; 05-13-2013 at 07:33 AM. Reason: clarification

  24. #424
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    For sure - for me anyway, I can feel when a fat tyre isn't on straight. The bike rides very oddly, with a strange lurch, that can really upset he handling, especially cornering, This may, or may not be what your experiencing, anyway, it's well worth the effort to get the tyre on straight. It was so bad initially that I thought I'd ruined my bike by adding the 72 mm rim, the bike rode sweetly once I'd got the tyre on straight though.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by Futon River Crossing View Post
    It was so bad initially that I thought I'd ruined my bike by adding the 72 mm rim, the bike rode sweetly once I'd got the tyre on straight though.
    I better roll up my sleeves then, sounds like I have more work to do here.

  26. #426
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    sorry if this is slightly off topic. i can see enel does but is anyone else running (or tried) running 'straight' bars on their jones?

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by octavius View Post
    sorry if this is slightly off topic. i can see enel does but is anyone else running (or tried) running 'straight' bars on their jones?
    I do. Zero complaints. Run what you like.

  28. #428
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    I do too. Really wide bars. Plus I have the Jones bars. I like the hand angle of the Jones bars for comfort, but feel I have less control when I'm running a narrow front rim (non-fat). And I haven't gotten as used to climbing with my hands so close to my body either. When I'm running fat front, I use/prefer the Jones bars because the fat tire improves stability. When I use a regular 29er rim, I prefer a wide and flat bar, which compensates for the stability I gave up by removing the fat front. It's a personal thing.

    Course I'm still tinkering, which is fun. I understand the idea behind Jeff's total system bike set-up, but it's not for everybody.

  29. #429
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    thanks wiwr and sd

    spent a lot of a the last few months on my ss kona unit. wanted to inform some changes to my original jones build rather than guessing (like i did before). lost 20 gears and those pesky xo brakes. coming back to the loops felt narrow, id loved them first time round, especially as they felt wide (i was running daft narrow bars for years before until i saw the light - and silly little wheels). not 100% yet but reckon ill definately go for a shorter stem whilst im tinkering as well.

    still totally loving it though. that new bike grin is still happening almost 2 years down the trail...

  30. #430
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    i'm running the easton ea50 xc wides (flat bar) and like them so far. haven't tried the loops. my bike is set up SS and i've found over the years that wide bars are paramount for climbing power. going to a wider bar is like dropping a couple of teeth off the chainring. i've also found that i prefer less sweep. when i'm really mashing hard up a climb i'll sometimes have only a couple of fingers on the ends of my grips to maximize the leverage. if the bars sweep back too much then that gets weird and i lose control.

    i went with a 90mm x 10degree stem based on Jeff's recommendation. I'm 6' tall and so is he so i figured i'd start with what fits him. I'm not feeling compelled to change that.

    spacers are currently 40mm above the headset. I may play with that some in the near future but am just riding it and having fun for a while before the next tweak.

  31. #431
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    Another reason I think I prefer the straight bars is that I feel more braced and in control on the downhills. But that's me...

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by head View Post
    i'm running the easton ea50 xc wides (flat bar) and like them so far. haven't tried the loops. my bike is set up SS and i've found over the years that wide bars are paramount for climbing power. going to a wider bar is like dropping a couple of teeth off the chainring. i've also found that i prefer less sweep. when i'm really mashing hard up a climb i'll sometimes have only a couple of fingers on the ends of my grips to maximize the leverage. if the bars sweep back too much then that gets weird and i lose control.

    i went with a 90mm x 10degree stem based on Jeff's recommendation. I'm 6' tall and so is he so i figured i'd start with what fits him. I'm not feeling compelled to change that.

    spacers are currently 40mm above the headset. I may play with that some in the near future but am just riding it and having fun for a while before the next tweak.
    How's the bike working for you?

  33. #433
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    i'm digging it. it took me a couple of weeks to get the bar i wanted so i was riding with a narrow-ish sweepy bar and it also took a couple of weeks to get the gear ratio right (ordered a 170mm crank with 32T ring but it came with a 34t. i didn't notice when i installed it but climbing sucked. went to a 175m crank and realized in the swap out process what was going on. changed to a 32T last night.) but i rode this morning with the right ratio and the right bar and was very pleased.

    i've been really impressed with how it just blasts through off camber rooty stuff. i've got ardent 2.4's all around right now on P35's. i'm toying with dropping down to a conti MKII 2.2 in back as i rode one of those on my last bike and liked it, but i'm not sure i'll do that for a while. having that huge meaty 2.4 beast back there is fun.

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by head View Post
    i've been really impressed with how it just blasts through off camber rooty stuff. i've got ardent 2.4's all around right now on P35's. i'm toying with dropping down to a conti MKII 2.2 in back as i rode one of those on my last bike and liked it, but i'm not sure i'll do that for a while. having that huge meaty 2.4 beast back there is fun.
    I just swapped the rear to 2.2's (from Ardent 2.4). Haven't ridden on it yet, but wanted to lose some weight in the back. Up front, the Knard on P35 is awesome.

  35. #435
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    be sure and post up your impressions of the difference when you get a chance. i'll be interested in what you think.

  36. #436
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    i dont know if i have ask before but has anyone put a mtb dropbar on Jones? something like the On one Midge or Salsa Woodchipper?

  37. #437
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    Expert advice welcome....get a proper dropbar mtb like the Singular Gryphon or get a Diamond truss n fix the Midge bar on it....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails "Tai"-Jones-20130520_094228.jpg  

    "Tai"-Jones-20130520_094213.jpg  


  38. #438
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    I think for the best results you may need to go with a frame that's designed to run drop bars from the get-go. (Just like how the Jones is designed with his own philosophy in mind).

    Not saying it won't work (it looks like it could, you may need a stem with more rise), but it may save you a lot of trial and error(s).

    Want to borrow my Rawland Drakkar? hehehe

  39. #439
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    Since the diamond is the same geo as the spaceframe, why don't you ride around and see if it works? I'm not a dropbar guy and even have a hard enough time keeping the Loop bar on there (I really may go straight bar sometime this year), but maybe it will work for you. Gryphon would be a cool bike, though. Almost bought one, but the set bolt EBB was the deal killer.

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    so far there is no pic of the red diamond unicrown setup in here....would love to see one taken in the trail pics...

    mostly googled them but the pic that come out is from the Jones blog...still trying to convince myself that the unicrown is as nice looking as the truss...

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojak View Post
    so far there is no pic of the red diamond unicrown setup in here....would love to see one taken in the trail pics...

    mostly googled them but the pic that come out is from the Jones blog...still trying to convince myself that the unicrown is as nice looking as the truss...
    The truss offers performance differences that make it more worth the upgrade than the looks.

  42. #442
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    i'm aware of the advantage of the truss over the unicrown from all the previous posts....if only he makes the truss in red then that would settle the problem....now the color option for truss diamond is only black n green though.

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojak View Post
    .if only he makes the truss in red then that would settle the problem....now the color option for truss diamond is only black n green though.
    If that's your only issue take a black/green truss fork to a powder coater and get it colour matched to a red frame.
    Safe riding,

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  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojak View Post
    i'm aware of the advantage of the truss over the unicrown from all the previous posts....if only he makes the truss in red then that would settle the problem....now the color option for truss diamond is only black n green though.
    You could always see if Jeff can do a red frame with a Titanium truss fork for you. I see he has the Diamond/Titanium truss as an option on his website. Red and Ti look pretty sharp together.

  45. #445
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    I thought that I was going to be ok with the 27.75 lbs of heft of my diamond/uni set up with Blunts(Knard front and Saguaro rear), but I gotta get the weight down just a little bit. It's almost depressing every time I try to get the Jones off the bike hook after I move it's 21 lb garage partner out of the way. The thing's porky. Game plan: Wheelset has to stay, as I spent too much time and money on them. In hindsight, I think I would have been just as happy on Stans Arch EX rims with the lower weight. So I think I'm going to get a Thomson post and lighter saddle than the cromo Rocket V/crappy Kalloy post I've got on there now. Also after switching back and forth between the 170mm M760 and 175mm M660 cranks, I'm going to stick with shorter cranks and get 170mm M980 cranks. I've got the aluminum loop bars on there, which I've actually come to like/tolerate, but it's just way too hefty. I'll probably end up with Ragley's or some bar with some sweep to them and maybe tad wider at 700mm.

    Of course, as I make these weight-cutting plans, a thought runs through my head that says, "why not just ride as-is and toughen up, you pansy." Which is fairly sound reasoning, as the bike wasn't meant to be a super-light racer. But then I think of the 100-miler coming up in a couple of months and dread the thought of packing every ounce of the bike up the last big climb.

    Oh, the $1k ti truss fork is out of the question.

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    I thought that I was going to be ok with the 27.75 lbs of heft of my diamond/uni set up with Blunts(Knard front and Saguaro rear), but I gotta get the weight down just a little bit. It's almost depressing every time I try to get the Jones off the bike hook after I move it's 21 lb garage partner out of the way. The thing's porky. Game plan: Wheelset has to stay, as I spent too much time and money on them. In hindsight, I think I would have been just as happy on Stans Arch EX rims with the lower weight. So I think I'm going to get a Thomson post and lighter saddle than the cromo Rocket V/crappy Kalloy post I've got on there now. Also after switching back and forth between the 170mm M760 and 175mm M660 cranks, I'm going to stick with shorter cranks and get 170mm M980 cranks. I've got the aluminum loop bars on there, which I've actually come to like/tolerate, but it's just way too hefty. I'll probably end up with Ragley's or some bar with some sweep to them and maybe tad wider at 700mm.

    Of course, as I make these weight-cutting plans, a thought runs through my head that says, "why not just ride as-is and toughen up, you pansy." Which is fairly sound reasoning, as the bike wasn't meant to be a super-light racer. But then I think of the 100-miler coming up in a couple of months and dread the thought of packing every ounce of the bike up the last big climb.

    Oh, the $1k ti truss fork is out of the question.
    I hear you. When I picke mine up, I think to myself, man...hefty, but when when I ride I don't notice one bit.

  47. #447
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    Mine comes in at 31 pounds. I saved some weight by riding more, eating a bit less, and switching from beer to cider.

    Lost 15 pounds since I got my Jones 5 months ago.

  48. #448
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    I'm already in the 150lb range. I have to eat more to have some resemblence of a manly figure.

    I can definitely feel the extra weight when comparing to my other bike. Still comtemplating whether this is a worthwhile endeavor.

    Any of you tried the Salsa Bend 2 bar? I like the extra width(710) and the 23 sweep. May try this one out.

    mikescott - nice Snatch clip, but remember what happens when he tries to shoot it.

    EDIT: Just ordered the Salsa Bend 2 bar with 23 deg sweep. I'll try this out for a few rides.
    Last edited by phsycle; 07-02-2013 at 09:24 AM.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    mikescott - nice Snatch clip, but remember what happens when he tries to shoot it.

    EDIT: Just ordered the Salsa Bend 2 bar with 23 deg sweep. I'll try this out for a few rides.
    Yeah the thing doesn't work! I'm a huge fan of that movie. Every time someone complains about weight I always think about Boris.

    "Why do they call him Boris the Bullet Dodger?"
    "Because he dodges bullets Avie."

    Vinnie Jones (woah Jones) delivers that last line so well.

    Take a pic with your Salsa Bar on once you get it! This thread needs more Jones pr0n.

  50. #450
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    Here's my steel diamond unicrown after its first ride:

    "Tai"-Jones-rx1001-3670_jones.jpg

    "Tai"-Jones-rx1001-3673_jones.jpg

    Most of the parts were moved over from my Peace 9r:



    That bike had a 24" ETT so I changed from a 75mm stem to a 90mm on the Jones. I've only had one ride but so far the bike has delivered the improvements I was looking for when making the switch. Much easier to pop the front wheel and much quicker handling but climbs well seated or standing.

    I do need to get used to the differences in handling at speed as the Jones is much more reactive to input. It seems like it will be a very rewarding bike.

  51. #451
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    Contemplating on either one of these 3....dont know if I should go with red with ti truss or red with unicrown...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails "Tai"-Jones-photogrid_1371912961063.jpg  


  52. #452
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    Red Unicrown available now...Red with Ti Truss available when?

    Can always upgrade to a Ti Truss later on. Or put your Ti Truss on hehe

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojak View Post
    Contemplating on either one of these 3....dont know if I should go with red with ti truss or red with unicrown...
    Red with Ti truss, if you can swing it. That's what I would do, personally. I believe they're supposed to arrive at the end of the month.

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    Red with Ti truss, if you can swing it. That's what I would do, personally. I believe they're supposed to arrive at the end of the month.
    Now waiting for confirmation on the green diamond, if its with white decals, I will take that...if its with black decals then red with ti truss will be my choice.

  55. #455
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    I like the red /ti. Jeff used to apply the decals.

  56. #456
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    Go red/ti. Coz I'll be getting a ti truss for my black diamond hehe!

  57. #457
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    looks nice when build up...haha.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails "Tai"-Jones-130703_063510.jpg  


  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    EDIT: Just ordered the Salsa Bend 2 bar with 23 deg sweep. I'll try this out for a few rides.
    Just went on a short ride. I like it already. Climbing has vastly improved. The semi-awkward hand positioning is gone. I like the extra width for leverage. I also put a shorter stem on (80mm), which is a tad too short, so I think I'll go with 90mm, but steering has much improved as well (had 100mm on the Loop).

    Things I miss: I did like the angle of the Loop better. The Salsa is 23 degrees, and I do wish for a little more sweep. Also, because of the essentially lengthened out hand position on the Salsa, I can't get my weight back as far. This loses the "wheel-barrow" effect and makes the rocky descents a tad bit more harsh. But I'll have to get more rides in to get a better feel, but I like it so far.

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    Just went on a short ride. I like it already. Climbing has vastly improved. The semi-awkward hand positioning is gone. I like the extra width for leverage. I also put a shorter stem on (80mm), which is a tad too short, so I think I'll go with 90mm, but steering has much improved as well (had 100mm on the Loop).

    Things I miss: I did like the angle of the Loop better. The Salsa is 23 degrees, and I do wish for a little more sweep. Also, because of the essentially lengthened out hand position on the Salsa, I can't get my weight back as far. This loses the "wheel-barrow" effect and makes the rocky descents a tad bit more harsh. But I'll have to get more rides in to get a better feel, but I like it so far.
    Hey Physycle, I was having some of the same issues with the Loop bar as you, so I took it off for awhile. However, I missed the sweep and my wrists started taking a beating. I decided to go back to the Loop, but I removed some spacing from beneath the bars to get them lower. Really helped. Better control on tech and climbing felt a bit more natural. The only issue is now I have more weight on my hands when in the neutral riding position than I'd like. If I were riding long distances on terrain that didn't require moving around on the bike, I'd probably be unhappy; however, my regular trails require lots of standing on the pedals up and down, and I don't spend a lot of time just peddling along in normal riding mode. If you do go back to the Loop, may be worth experimenting with that 90 degree stem and 20mm less in spacers.

  60. #460
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    if it helps: it is really well worth experimenting with bar height and angle with the loops. over the years i have got to the stage of using an inclinometer to set bar angle (for me i set them at 12 degrees with the inclinometer sat on the (esi) grip in line with the grip area, rather than in line with the frame)

    if you flip the loop bars, you get more drop as well. iirc it is soemthing like a 13mm rise or drop depending on orientation. I run my bb in the lowest setting and the bars flipped for 13mm drop and a 100mm -6 stem set back post. works for me....

  61. #461
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    So both of you are saying to go lower. Why? Trying to picture in my head how that would help. When climbing, the Loop bar would put my weight too far back. If I leaned forward, my hands would be at an awkward position (too close). My stem is 100mm and I really hesitate to go any longer.

    I'll get a few more rides in on the Salsa bar before trying the Loop again.

  62. #462
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    well, im not saying you *should* go lower, just that it is possible to? example: im 5'11" and have a 745mm saddle height from centre of bb to top of saddle with 175mm cranks. i have a truss fork that is in essence a 20mm or so 'spacer' above the headset. i found that i needed my bars a little lower than the saddle height to achieve a good position. i find that if i have a level saddle, the right saddle height and set back behind the bb, then i barely have any perception of weight on my hands. for climbing, and corners, i like the bars at a certain height and reach so the front wheel can be weighted comfortably. i achieved this by using the 100mm -6 degree stem and the loop bars flipped over to add 13mm of drop. over the years that bike has had the loops both ways with a 110mm 10 degree rise, 100mm 10 degree rise, 110mm o degree rise, 100mm 0 degree rise and then a 100mm -6 degree 'rise' stem (in that order!) until i felt it was perfect.

    some folk like their bars higher, further or nearer than that. i suppose what i am getting at is experiment with it! the loops are different to a lot of bars and over the years i have definitely noticed that there is a sweet spot for me, that is dissimilar to the set up others may have. jeff's personal set up for example has the bars higher than i have them, and iirc he runs his bars a bit flatter than i do. not right or wrong, just different! and in my view one of the very cool things about the loops is the variation in hand positions they allow!

    the other thing i would mention is that stem length does not necessarily change if you go from normal mtb bars to a loop bar. as you move to the higher sweep it changes how your shoulders and elbows are arranged when riding too - to my mind into a more comfortable, relaxed position. with flat/riser bars i tend towards riding with my elbows nearly locked out, with the loops i find it much easier to ride with my elbows very relaxed and bent. these days with very wide bars and short stems, an elbows out, chest down position seems to be de rigueur: i suspect this all has to do with resisting wheel deflections of slack bikes at speed, in rocky terrain. although you can go fast on a jones, it aint a dh bike! so i dont think this is what everyone should aim for...

    you can weight a bike's front end no matter where the bars are within any sensible definition...it is just more or less comfortable/easy to do so. getting the bars in the right place is pretty much a comfort thing.

    ok...probably enough waffling!

    hope you find a sweet spot!
    Last edited by dRjOn; 07-05-2013 at 09:50 AM. Reason: additional thts

  63. #463
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    Ok, that makes sense. I'm about the same height as you, so I'll have to try that out. I've got about 40mm of spacers under the stem, so I can easily drop it down a bit. Thanks for the thoughts.

  64. #464
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    Well, got a couple of more rides in. It's going to be pretty tough to go back to the Loop bar for me. The Salsa Bend is on hit. The only thing I might change is the stem from 80 to 90mm.

    Knard and Ikon combo is awesome as well. One item of note--I will not be setting up the Blunt 35's with rim tape tubeless anymore. One slight brush against a rock yesterday ended up in a flat. Must have unseated the bead. I don't get the warm and fuzzy "SNAP" when pumping up the tire like I do on my Stans rims. I've got a tube back there and it's probably going to stay. Knard is set up split-tube tubeless and has been ok so far. Even with one good-sized ding. Speaking of the Knard, it is there to stay, unless I switch to strictly smooth trails. At first, I thought 12-14psi was ok. Few rim hits later (going slower than usual), I am up to ~20psi. This works out the best for me. I can blast through rock gardens (although feels more bumpy with increased speed and psi) with no issues. I'm about 22psi in the rear, which has also worked out.

    EDIT: Per Michael Gary Scott's request: 160lb rider + ~10lb gear.
    Last edited by phsycle; 07-11-2013 at 10:09 AM.

  65. #465
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    I've been running p35's set up with stan's tape on my jones and haven't had any problems with burps. i run an ardent 2.4 on the front at about 15 psi and a conti mkii 2.2 on the back at about 17psi. i also ran an ardent on the back for a couple weeks but i like the knobs on the mkii better. i cranked the psi on the tires up to the max at first install then lowered them down to desired psi. everything seemed to pop into place just right.

  66. #466
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    Rim size + tube/tubless + tire + PSI data is all pretty useless without the rider and gear weight data point.

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelscott View Post
    Rim size + tube/tubless + tire + PSI data is all pretty useless without the rider and gear weight data point.
    True to a point, how fast you go and how smooth you are / how hard you hit things can make as much difference tho so it's all so variable. fwiw, P35, 2.4 Ardents at 18-19psi for relatively quick, smooth but rooty trails. 175lbs + average gear, add a couple of psi for 12-13lbs bikepacking kit. No probs but a couple of minor rim dings so far.

    Here's a steel diamond with ti truss - brilliant combo. Weight-wise very close to my Ti SF, not as comfy but I like the stiffness of the frame. The 350g saved on the fork seems noticeable at first when lofting the front, but I mainly swapped forks to keep weight down for a race.



    On the front end height, I think DrJon's reasoning is good. I like my bars pretty high though, took a while to adjust but with about a 25-27 degree bar tilt I can get low at the back and high at the front. A higher bar keeps the front light for hops and drops so I kept raising it 5mm at a time until I felt cornering became a compromise then dropped it back down a little. It's still not as high as some Jones set ups, but a fair bit less saddle-to-bar drop than other bikes I ride.

  68. #468
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    Wow James - you have GEARS...

  69. #469
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    james how does it ride with the Ti Truss?

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by octavius View Post
    Wow James - you have GEARS...
    Aye, all 6 of them.. ) a big ring may have helped too but 2 shifters just confuses me these days!

    Agu, it feels the same, just a tad lighter. With 18psi in a tyre I can't tell any difference between steel and ti truss. It should be a little softer but I'd need to do back to back runs to see if I could tell, certainly I didn't feel any real difference aside from the front coming up a little easier when I first fitted it. But any tiny comfort benefit would be worth it on a big ride, even if it's a placebo effect. The Ti loops do feel very slightly softer than the Al ones imo, mainly on bigger impacts.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by head View Post
    I've been running p35's set up with stan's tape on my jones and haven't had any problems with burps. i run an ardent 2.4 on the front at about 15 psi and a conti mkii 2.2 on the back at about 17psi. i also ran an ardent on the back for a couple weeks but i like the knobs on the mkii better. i cranked the psi on the tires up to the max at first install then lowered them down to desired psi. everything seemed to pop into place just right.
    i'm 150lbs and ride w/ a camelback so add a couple of pounds there. I ride as fast as i can on east coasty trails in central va. they're a mix of some smooth dirt, a few rocks, lots of roots and plenty of twisty turns. Descents/climbs are mostly short and punchy but some are plenty long enough to get up to out of control speed. i've been riding rigid predominantly for about 8 years and exclusively for about 3 years so i tend to pick the clean lines. well... that is until i got on the jones. now i plow through the off camber roots way more than ever before. i don't exactly aim for the biggest root in the trail but if that's the fastest line then i'll hit it. i'm not much into drops but won't shy away from the small ones of a foot or so. i've definitely come down a little too hard and put some minor dings in my rim sidewalls as a result but that's been part of the psi/ridingstyle learning curve.

    but my point was that i've had good success with the ardent 2.4 and MKII 2.2 beads staying locked into the P35 rims.

    does that fill in the blanks a little better Michael Scott? if not then lemme know what else to add.

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by head View Post
    i'm 150lbs and ride w/ a camelback so add a couple of pounds there. I ride as fast as i can on east coasty trails in central va. they're a mix of some smooth dirt, a few rocks, lots of roots and plenty of twisty turns. Descents/climbs are mostly short and punchy but some are plenty long enough to get up to out of control speed. i've been riding rigid predominantly for about 8 years and exclusively for about 3 years so i tend to pick the clean lines. well... that is until i got on the jones. now i plow through the off camber roots way more than ever before. i don't exactly aim for the biggest root in the trail but if that's the fastest line then i'll hit it. i'm not much into drops but won't shy away from the small ones of a foot or so. i've definitely come down a little too hard and put some minor dings in my rim sidewalls as a result but that's been part of the psi/ridingstyle learning curve.

    but my point was that i've had good success with the ardent 2.4 and MKII 2.2 beads staying locked into the P35 rims.

    does that fill in the blanks a little better Michael Scott? if not then lemme know what else to add.
    Thanks Head and James- Weights do help.

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelscott View Post
    Rim size + tube/tubless + tire + PSI data is all pretty useless without the rider and gear weight data point.
    I'll chime in for more data points

    All geared up I'm around 165#, running my Jones as a 34x19 singlespeed. Rims are Velocity P35s, with a Vee Rubber Speed R 2.4 up front, 15-18psi. Vee Rubber Mission 2.4 on the rear, 18-21psi. I've run this combo on various trails, and while I try to find the smoothest line possible, I find that the Jones seems to "float" over rocks/roots easily - possibly because of the rear weight bias?

    James, I may run Ti truss in the future as well - I find that the ti h-bar (old type) does dampen some vibrations. An Eriksen setback post helps a bit too.

    Don't have an opportunity to try a fat front set up yet (that will change in a few weeks), and will also try a Knard + Rabbit Hole up front. I've ridden a Krampus for a few laps in a local trail and it felt promising (more as a front tire though).

  74. #474
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    I've been really enjoying my Jones for the past two weeks. It's unlike any mountain bike I've ridden and is opening up new areas of interest. On my Peace 9r I was content to roll along my local trails, catching the occasional bit of air off a well placed rock, but the Jones has me wanting to do more. I've been looking for lines I used to avoid and practicing skills like wheelie drops (PSA: low risk practice area; I wear a helmet on trails).

    "Tai"-Jones-07-08-practice-grab.jpg

    The bike's design works so well that I wanted to see if I was missing anything by not using a Loop type handlebar, so when I found a lightly used J-bar for a good price I jumped on it. I put ESI chunky grips on the ends and used bar tape similar to the way Jeff shows on his site. I was using a 90mm stem with the riser and changed to a 100mm with the J-bar. I will also need to re-cable as many of the bends are now tighter than I'd like.

    This morning I got out on my first trail ride with the J-bar and found it really improves an already incredible bike. My arms took less of beating over fast, rough sections (I haven't used a suspension fork in over 5 years and am used to the feel of a rigid bike) and I felt better control when climbing and crawling through technical sections. The biggest improvement was how the bar allowed me to move around the bike more easily and I always felt like I was in the right place for whatever was coming up. I think a lot of this comes from the sweep and the fore-aft positioning range it gives. I'll probably play with the height and angle a bit but I think the bar is a keeper.

    "Tai"-Jones-07-13-jones-j-bar-700.jpg

  75. #475
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    Here's one of our demos.

    Nothing blingy about the build:

    Shimano Deore 3x10 groupset
    Shimano M629 rear hub
    Time ATAC-Z pedals
    Jones 72mm front rim, Surly Knard 26x3.8, 120tpi tire
    Velocity Blunt 35 rear rim, Vee Rubber Mission 29x2.4 tire
    Thomson seatpost and stem
    Jones Loop Bar
    ESI Chunky Grips
    WTB Silverado saddle

    Weight? 32lbs as is, but still nimble AND capable.

    "Tai"-Jones-img_1344.jpg


    (The black diamond is mine hehe)

  76. #476
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    Hey agu - aren't you about 6'15" or something, and you still 'fit' OK don't you?

  77. #477
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    Last I checked I was 5'9" hehe

  78. #478
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    Loving my Jones so far. This bike is F.U.N. - fun. Though it is now out of commission after just one day of serious riding. (Ripped the Hanger off at the end of my ride) Nimble is the right word for this bike, it's behaves like a BMX but rides like a beach cruiser.

    The Chunky Monkey is GREAT mounted on a P35, never lost the front end, the backend, well the Ardent would slip out on my some in the 'tacky' mud.

    (I'm 5'10" 250lbs)

    "Tai"-Jones-muddy-jones.jpg

  79. #479
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    Hi guys,

    Just about to embark on the Jones route providing all goes well with the test ride. Going to be running a fat front as my riding tends towards being all about the down and this will be replacing a yelli screamy as i'm bored of suspension based faff. What is the preferred tyre rim (width) combo? I'm dithering between the on one floater and a Bud at the moment. Does the Bud give much more cushion? And is best to mount them on something like a holy rolling darryl or will a 65mm large marge lite suffice? Will be for rooty, muddy trails and i'm about 210lbs if that makes any difference.

  80. #480
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    Hey Bunzi, I came off a Yelli Screamy and switched to the Jones for the exact same reason. I ride the exact kind of trails you do too, but I weigh even more. I'm sure other riders will come on and give some great advice.

    Personally, I think trail-riding the fat front on the lightest possible rim is best/more important than width. But you'll have to figure out what that means based on your needs. If I could/can get away with the Marge Lite, I would. If I can get the traction I need out of a 1200gram tire, I will. However, most the fat tires with traction focused tread are coming in around 1400 grams on the low end. Combine that with a heavier rim, and you've got a lot of weight to push. My guess is the Marge Lite will handle tires up to 4.0, but wider might change things. And if you plan to bash downhill aggressively, the Marge Lite might not be enough.

    Having never ridden the Bud, I don't know how wide a rim it needs. I think there are 70-80mm rim choices that would allow you to ride the widest possible tires. I don't know what the drilled rolling Darryls weigh in at, but if not a huge weight penalty over the Marge, then that might be more versatile. Now, this is where others with more direct experience get to chime in.

    FYI, I'm on one of Jeff's 50mm rims, claimed weight 666grams, with a Husker Du tire, and I weigh 250. No problems. But I pick clean lines, and am not an aggressive downhill rider. I've ridden one of Jeff's bikes with the 100mm clownshoe rim and a 4.8 tire. I kind of liked it, but also thought it too much at the same time. Kind of a: Whoah, this thing's huge, and I don't know that it's doing anything for me that I really need. I suppose it would have been slightly more comfortable over smaller chop/trail chatter, but I don't know that it would make a huge difference on bigger roots and whatnot. At least that was my opinion based on the short time I spent of the super-wide front.

  81. #481
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    I run mostly Nates and HUDUs on my Jones, on a 72mm rim - I do occasionally run a BFL - and I do notice the the extra cushioning it gives- I'm still thinking a Bud will give the ultimate traction and Cush in all conditions, but I'm wary of a tyre that weighs 1700g !!!

  82. #482
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    Thanks Slow Danger, very helpful. I can see the Floater being a good starting point, mainly for the price...unless the Bud provides a noticeable amount more cushion on the bigger roots and bumps. I like to think i ride relatively aggressively on the trails, taking on jumps/small ish drops (up to 4-5 feet) so i am relatively concerned that a marge lite would be too light for my needs. I'm also thinking that going with a bigger rim from the start would be a better option as it would always give me the option to move up to the bigger tyre if specialized et al start bringing theirs out around the 4.5 inch mark.

  83. #483
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    Futon - Is that Jeff's 72mm rim? Didn't realise Bud was that much of a porker although i think the floater comes in around 1500g. I think i ride in the same area as you (Surrey Hills) so trying to sort out a test ride with Biff at the moment.

  84. #484
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    Yes - it's the Jones 72mm rim. I can run my BFL at 7.5 psi - you can really feel the difference, compared to a Nate at 8.5 psi - having said that - these super dry dusty conditions are not suiting the BFL right now, which is why I'm considering the Bud, my legs quail at the weight though!

  85. #485
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    James-O, congratulations on your huge ride (GDR)! Very interesting to see you rode the Jones. Reading of your emphasis on the benefits of comfort, would you still take the steel Diamond frame over the Ti Spaceframe if you were doing it again?

    And now that Jones is finally bringing out a Ti Diamond frame, would you see that as being the best of both your Jones bikes? ie, the ultimate blend of your Ti Spaceframe and your steel Diamond frame? (for the riding you've described you do)

    I'm very interested to know.

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbudd View Post
    James-O, congratulations on your huge ride (GDR)! Very interesting to see you rode the Jones. Reading of your emphasis on the benefits of comfort, would you still take the steel Diamond frame over the Ti Spaceframe if you were doing it again?

    And now that Jones is finally bringing out a Ti Diamond frame, would you see that as being the best of both your Jones bikes? ie, the ultimate blend of your Ti Spaceframe and your steel Diamond frame? (for the riding you've described you do)

    I'm very interested to know.
    Yeah, James-O. Great article on the Jones website blog.

  87. #487
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    Titanium Diamond frame

    By the way, did y'all know that Jones is finally doing a production run of Ti Diamond frames?

    Sadly for me, the price with a Ti Truss fork is still prohibitive and if I was to spend that much, I'd probably just pay the extra and get the Ti Spaceframe.

    The option with the plain steel Unicrown fork is conceivably reachable for me, but would I replace my steel Spaceframe + Truss fork with a Titanium Diamond frame + Unicrown fork? (and pay a few thousand dollars to do so!)

    Would you?

  88. #488
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    Been talking to Jeff about building up the new frame I have on order (psyched!) and he mentioned that he got a press release from velocity for a new 40mm blunt. Looks like this might be the route I go up front. I'm hoping to be able to swap between ardent and knard.

    sorry, that's 45mm not 40

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsqueri View Post
    Been talking to Jeff about building up the new frame I have on order (psyched!) and he mentioned that he got a press release from velocity for a new 40mm blunt. Looks like this might be the route I go up front. I'm hoping to be able to swap between ardent and knard.

    sorry, that's 45mm not 40
    Been waiting for that to come out. I like it better than the RH option (double wall, lighter and tubeless). Although if you were going to switch between regular 29 and 29+ tires, maybe the Blunt 35 would be a better option.

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    Jeff said he wasn't keen on the 35 with the 29+; I don't really know. Would the 45 not work as well with the 2.4s?

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsqueri View Post
    Jeff said he wasn't keen on the 35 with the 29+; I don't really know. Would the 45 not work as well with the 2.4s?
    The wider rims with narrower tires start to flatten out the tread profile. That can mess up how the bike handles. Exactly what the impact will be will vary from tire to tire vs. each rim option, but it's safe to say you will notice a difference.

    If you are dedicated to running 29+ get the wider rims and accept some trade off if you run narrower rubber occasionally. If you are less committed to 29+ I would get something in a bit narrower for a rim that will work well with 2.4"-3" tires.
    Safe riding,

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    www.vikapproved.com

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    "Tai"-Jones

    For those that have switched from a yelli screamy to the jones, any regrets? How do they compare? I currently have a Yelli with a 100mm fork, but am really thinking about switching to a diamond/truss with a fat front. Any insight would be appreciated.

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by elroyj View Post
    For those that have switched from a yelli screamy to the jones, any regrets? How do they compare? I currently have a Yelli with a 100mm fork, but am really thinking about switching to a diamond/truss with a fat front. Any insight would be appreciated.
    I switched from a N9. You will want to make sure that you can live with no suspension. No matter how fat the front is, it's no suspension fork. Rough and bumpy sections WILL rattle you. You WILL have to slow down. If you're ok with that, you will have fun with it. No regrets for me thus far. I've got a Knard up front.

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    I just switched from the new generation Nimble9 with 100mm of travel to a Diamond frame with a unicrown fork and 3.8 Knard with a loop bar and have no regrets although the chainstays on the Nimble are shorter and the bike did feel a bit more agile and easier to loft the front wheel the Jones wasn't too far behind despite having the longer rear end but shorter overall wheelbase however, like physicle said, even with a fat tire you can't go blasting down rough sections like you have suspension, though riding a bike that was designed to be rigid with a fat front does feel quite a bit better than my previous rigids that were suspension corrected with regular 29er tires.

    I never thought I would ride or own another rigid mountain bike but the Jones changed my perception of what a proper rigid mountain bike should be. Also, I don't find the fat tire or the loop bar hinders my climbing ability at all but my fitness level does. as I've been absent from consistent trail riding for numerous months.

  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbudd View Post
    James-O, congratulations on your huge ride (GDR)! Very interesting to see you rode the Jones. Reading of your emphasis on the benefits of comfort, would you still take the steel Diamond frame over the Ti Spaceframe if you were doing it again?

    And now that Jones is finally bringing out a Ti Diamond frame, would you see that as being the best of both your Jones bikes? ie, the ultimate blend of your Ti Spaceframe and your steel Diamond frame? (for the riding you've described you do)

    I'm very interested to know.
    Thanks.
    I tried out my spaceframe over some longer bikepacking weekends and found the comfort advantage was less apparent once the bike was loaded up. The load can't reduce the flex, it'll increase it so I think the tyres just do more once the bike has 10-15lbs on it and you're at the speed where the ti really does start to spring. I also trust steel 100% - the possibility of a cracked ti frame (as uk rider Aidan experienced a few yrs back) seemed to be on my mind more than it should.

    Ti diamond wasn't an option then but may have been ideal. The comfort difference is probably minimal, but it all adds up. I'd be more interested in the weight savings. I can't see me changing both my bikes for 1 ti diamond - it'd be like swapping a great 26" bike and a nice 29er for a 650B.. But I do fancy a ti diamond for road/cx build!

    The steel frame/ti fork combo is great, maybe the best weight/ride quality/vfm combo? I'd ride the same bike on the GDR again anytime. If I took the spaceframe it'd be to go lighter and try single-speeding it )

    One thing I'm sure of, the Jones is an incredibly well designed bike for both super-long rides when you're utterly shattered, as well as being a wake-up riot on any fun stuff that comes up. Perfect choice for the TDR. 2+ years on and I still think it's the greatest bike design out there.
    (edit to add, there's probably an element of sentimentality in taking the steel bike too, it's been on a few trips now plus a lot of weekenders and I like how used it's looking after about 10,000kms of loaded riding!)

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    Fantastic effort and a great write up jameso!

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    So I've been web lusting about the new Surly 26 inch Rabbit Hole rims and Dirt Wizard tire. Claims that outside wheel diameter is 27.5 or better. Wondering if that tire/rim combo would fit on the back my Jones. My fat front wheel measures a bit shy of 29 inches, so the fat front with this 27.5 might make a nice match.

    Anybody try a 27.5 wheel in the back of a Jones?

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    If it does fit, it's going to be pretty tight. Your BB will also be lower, which may or may not be an issue. Would be pretty cool if it works out, though.

    I'm more interested in getting my hands on that 29+ DW.

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by phsycle View Post
    If it does fit, it's going to be pretty tight. Your BB will also be lower, which may or may not be an issue. Would be pretty cool if it works out, though.

    I'm more interested in getting my hands on that 29+ DW.
    Yeah, I'm always trying to fit something fatter on the rear of my Jones. Kind of pipe-dreaming that the 26 DWizard would fit. The 29 inch Dirt Wizard is also promising for those who aren't fans of the Knard.

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow Danger View Post
    Yeah, I'm always trying to fit something fatter on the rear of my Jones.
    Me too! I rode a Krampus and was super impressed with the Knard front and rear. Made me wish my Jones could fit a Knard at the rear too. So now I have a Knard on my Jones the front (on a P35) and it's great. But what can I do to fatten the rear? Best idea I can think of so far is a Specialized Purgatory (60mm wide actual, mounted on my P35) on a Rabbit Hole (or wider) rim. Let me know if you know of a 29er tyre wider than 60mm.

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