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Thread: Surly Krampus

  1. #951
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    Sedona + dropper post + Krampus = fun

    Surly Krampus-sedona-krampus.jpg

    last 3 days in Sedona, did a few different loops on the Krampus and a few different loops on my Intense Spider Comp...they were both a blast!
    What is thy bidding, my master.

  2. #952
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    anyone mounted a knard on a 25mm rim?

  3. #953
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    Quote Originally Posted by saltyman View Post
    Notice anything suspicious in this photo? That's funny. Too bad they don't offer Krampus in a rainbow fade. lol
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  4. #954
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    My Krampus

    Gunna do a angleset and 120 fork with normal 2.4 schwalbe tires for the summer. Such a fun bike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Krampus-surly-krampus.jpg  


  5. #955
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    I have mine mounted on a blunt 35 with a 28mm internal i think. I run them tubeless with like 8 to 10lbs. I used 1 in gorilla and stans and it set up like a dream no problems at all so far.

  6. #956
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    Some observations from my last couple of weeks on the krampus

    I bought mine to replicate the geometry of the bike I was riding. I went with the small based on ett. Also, I want my front wheel as much under me as possible so I can weight it for fast turns, so I stayed away from the medium that would have moved the wheel forward, but not necessarily changed my body position since I would have run a shorter stem. Also the super-wide bars that surly recommends won't work on our trails, they just don't have the clearance. My bars are 680mm wide and I hit the barcaps on trees regularly, not hard just enough to remind me I've reached the limits. For me this is a cross country bike with amazing traction! I'm 5'8" riding a small and running a 105mm stem. I could probably run a shorter stem, but I don't have one handy at the moment.

    I've seen a lot of Krampi with the monkeynuts. I do not use them and prefer running my tire all the way forward. My x.7 triple derailleur has to be adjusted to not hit the tire, but it still works fine for the middle and outer ring positions. I'm about to buy a mr whirly to run 36-22 up front for rides in the mountains with multi-mile climbs. By running my tire all the way forward, the bike climbs great; moving it further back would definitely decrease traction for me. The caliper didn't line up well with my 180mm rotors; I had to put an additional washer under the front bolt of the caliper and could benefit slightly from a reduced height on the rear caliper (I could get there by going with a thiner connical washer and then adding a couple of washers to make up some of the difference), but it doesn't matter enough to make the change at this point.

    the shorter wheelbase of choosing a smaller frame and running the wheel slammed forward in the dropouts helps keep the bike nimble.

    tubeless doesn't work well for me with 27tpi tires. too much burping! someone who's real easy on parts could get away with it, but someone like that is probably not riding a krampus.

    cross-laced wheels are holding up amazingly well! hex head nipples were important for getting them up to tension without damaging the nipples, but I'd say that's true about all 29er wheels using cassette hubs. I was somewhat lazy building the wheels, so I didn't spend too much time pre-stressing them; my plan was and still is to true them when they need it. I have been surprised that they still don't need any retrue after over 200 miles. Cross-lacing has mixed reviews and a lot of people complain that spoke tension is too low in various applications or that truing them is unpredictable(probably more of a problem with rims that have much wider offset drilling). I had no issued like this; they trued just like regular wheels, the spoke tension is high, etc. I would recommend this approach to everyone, but I do only have 200 miles on 'em, so the long term is obviously uncertain. Compared to 36 spoke, 4 cross p-35s my 32 spoke, 3 cross, cross-laced rabbit holes are much stiffer. I can really feel this when boosting little humps in the trail; my old wheels noticeably flexed, though less than the 32 spoke skinny rims they replaced, my cross-laced rabbit holes are far stiffer, which I really appreciate. I do wonder if a non-cross laced wheel would flex more and rub the chainstays. the tits on the tires rub the chainstays and based on my experience with the 36h p35s I thought hard pedaling would flex everything enough to cause rubbing, but surprisingly this has not been the case like it was trying to run a 2.4" tire in my old frame

    Fat tires are great for small and medium bumps, but a suspension fork would still be nice. I'll have to wait until my budget grows or a cheaper fork is available that will fit the 3" tire.

    chainline is one of the bigger issues with the bike. the middle ring position combined with a tripple combined with the biggest cog on the cassette puts the chain quite close to the tire. I don't think you would have much luck with a regular mountain double's inner ring; your f. der would likely rub the tire if you don't use the monkeynuts. Even running 2 gears in the outer position of my triple cranks, I took one of the smaller rings off the cassette and spaced the cassette towards the dropout to improve chainline. Even still, the easiest gear has more cross-chaining than I would prefer. I would really love to run a single speed hub that accepts 5+ gears off the 10sp cassette, but building another rear wheel is not in the current budget!

  7. #957
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    Some observations from my last couple of weeks on the krampus

    I bought mine to replicate the geometry of the bike I was riding. I went with the small based on ett. Also, I want my front wheel as much under me as possible so I can weight it for fast turns, so I stayed away from the medium that would have moved the wheel forward, but not necessarily changed my body position since I would have run a shorter stem. Also the super-wide bars that surly recommends won't work on our trails, they just don't have the clearance. My bars are 680mm wide and I hit the barcaps on trees regularly, not hard just enough to remind me I've reached the limits. For me this is a cross country bike with amazing traction! I'm 5'8" riding a small and running a 105mm stem. I could probably run a shorter stem, but I don't have one handy at the moment.

    I've seen a lot of Krampi with the monkeynuts. I do not use them and prefer running my tire all the way forward. My x.7 triple derailleur has to be adjusted to not hit the tire, but it still works fine for the middle and outer ring positions. I'm about to buy a mr whirly to run 36-22 up front for rides in the mountains with multi-mile climbs. By running my tire all the way forward, the bike climbs great; moving it further back would definitely decrease traction for me. The caliper didn't line up well with my 180mm rotors; I had to put an additional washer under the front bolt of the caliper and could benefit slightly from a reduced height on the rear caliper (I could get there by going with a thiner connical washer and then adding a couple of washers to make up some of the difference), but it doesn't matter enough to make the change at this point.

    the shorter wheelbase of choosing a smaller frame and running the wheel slammed forward in the dropouts helps keep the bike nimble.

    tubeless doesn't work well for me with 27tpi tires. too much burping! someone who's real easy on parts could get away with it, but someone like that is probably not riding a krampus.

    cross-laced wheels are holding up amazingly well! hex head nipples were important for getting them up to tension without damaging the nipples, but I'd say that's true about all 29er wheels using cassette hubs. I was somewhat lazy building the wheels, so I didn't spend too much time pre-stressing them; my plan was and still is to true them when they need it. I have been surprised that they still don't need any retrue after over 200 miles. Cross-lacing has mixed reviews and a lot of people complain that spoke tension is too low in various applications or that truing them is unpredictable(probably more of a problem with rims that have much wider offset drilling). I had no issued like this; they trued just like regular wheels, the spoke tension is high, etc. I would recommend this approach to everyone, but I do only have 200 miles on 'em, so the long term is obviously uncertain. Compared to 36 spoke, 4 cross p-35s my 32 spoke, 3 cross, cross-laced rabbit holes are much stiffer. I can really feel this when boosting little humps in the trail; my old wheels noticeably flexed, though less than the 32 spoke skinny rims they replaced, my cross-laced rabbit holes are far stiffer, which I really appreciate. I do wonder if a non-cross laced wheel would flex more and rub the chainstays. the tits on the tires rub the chainstays and based on my experience with the 36h p35s I thought hard pedaling would flex everything enough to cause rubbing, but surprisingly this has not been the case like it was trying to run a 2.4" tire in my old frame

    Fat tires are great for small and medium bumps, but a suspension fork would still be nice. I'll have to wait until my budget grows or a cheaper fork is available that will fit the 3" tire.

    chainline is one of the bigger issues with the bike. the middle ring position combined with a tripple combined with the biggest cog on the cassette puts the chain quite close to the tire. I don't think you would have much luck with a regular mountain double's inner ring; your f. der would likely rub the tire if you don't use the monkeynuts. Even running 2 gears in the outer position of my triple cranks, I took one of the smaller rings off the cassette and spaced the cassette towards the dropout to improve chainline. Even still, the easiest gear has more cross-chaining than I would prefer. I would really love to run a single speed hub that accepts 5+ gears off the 10sp cassette, but building another rear wheel is not in the current budget!
    I tried not running the monkey nuts but there was major brake clearance issues. i could have spaced the front of the caliper up but the rear was so high that the rotor ran through the brake pad way to low. Iam 5 ft7 and running a 50m stem with 760 funn bars. the fit is alright but i would like to try a med with a 35 stem and my post alot lower so when its dropped its alot lower as its almost maxed out in the small frame. I am running x9 hubs laced to blunt 35 which i think are the same as p-35s. I built them up with straight gauge dt spokes. They seem to be pretty stiff to me so far. I have been running the 120 knard set up tubeless with about 8lbs in it. I do notice the side wall flex that you get when running a huge volume tire tubeless with low pressure. But the wheel itself feels about like my 26 did. I did all the research yesterday on running a 44m cane creek angle set and straight steer tube 120 fork. It should put the head angle some wear between 68 and 68.5 and steepen the seat tube angle a bit which i would gladly take. I am coming off a bike that head a 66 degree head angle and a 73 seattube angle. Cheers

  8. #958
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    Can someone verify the offset of the Rabbit hole rims spoke holes?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  9. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Can someone verify the offset of the Rabbit hole rims spoke holes?
    Surly Krampus
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  10. #960
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Can someone verify the offset of the Rabbit hole rims spoke holes?
    Mine measure to be 7mm. 14mm CL to CL.

  11. #961
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    me too....
    my measurements of ERD are here...
    Krampus. | drj0nswanderings

  12. #962
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    Thanks for confirming the offset guys...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  13. #963
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    Here is a quick shot of my new build. Just finished it up last night, heading to the trails now. I will post some better pics later


    attachment by tim_w_sage, on Flickr

  14. #964
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    medium krampus. built with lots of XT, some xtr, a few king bits, some Paul components (it is wrong to have a bike that doesnt have at least one Paul part) watson cycles parkarino's wtb 'dh' tubes currently, 120 tpi knards and some Red Fang. 28lbs. fun.

  15. #965
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    2014 milage so far - 2,485
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  16. #966
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    well that sure puts things into perspective! put the fargo in the next group of pics!

  17. #967
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    Hey Saltyman, couple quick questions: what size is the Moonlander? How tall are you and your inseam? Moonie or Krampus? Thanks in advance.
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  18. #968
    The White Jeff W
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    Re: Surly Krampus

    Saw this on a group ride today. Owner said it was 27.5 lbs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Krampus-uploadfromtaptalk1362957297058.jpg  

    No moss...

  19. #969
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    Quote Originally Posted by saltyman View Post
    Great photo to show why sizing a Krampus by Eff TT is so important.....
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  20. #970
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    Just finished building my krampug on p35 rims - cant wait to take the big girl out, though the snow is back so may have to go back to large marge at the weekend

  21. #971
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    Did anybody buy the Krampus t-shirt when they bought their frameset or am I the only one?

  22. #972
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    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    chainline is one of the bigger issues with the bike. the middle ring position combined with a tripple combined with the biggest cog on the cassette puts the chain quite close to the tire. I don't think you would have much luck with a regular mountain double's inner ring; your f. der would likely rub the tire if you don't use the monkeynuts. Even running 2 gears in the outer position of my triple cranks, I took one of the smaller rings off the cassette and spaced the cassette towards the dropout to improve chainline. Even still, the easiest gear has more cross-chaining than I would prefer. I would really love to run a single speed hub that accepts 5+ gears off the 10sp cassette, but building another rear wheel is not in the current budget!
    I believe Surly pointed this out on their blog. Did you find something to the contrary?

    http://surlybikes.com/blog/post/wher...mpus_questions

    5. Can I run a front derailleur and a multiple ring crankset?

    Yes and no. Here's where the "normal parts" and the "bigass tires" want to fight a little bit. We are going to spec the complete bike with a single ring up front and ten cogs in back. The single ring is the easy, cost-effective, and very neat way to run this. With a single ring you can run any mountain crankset you like that will work with the 73mm bb shell. Done and done.

    You can also run a mountain double or triple crank if you like, but you'll be getting into some tire rub in the smaller gears. You can do a couple of things to counter that (same as you would on a Pug with Rolling Darryls, or on a Moonlander). You could live with the marginal amount of suckiness that would bring to your existence, or you could rid yourself of the smaller cogs of your cassette and run some spacers behind the remaining larger cogs. That will give you access to the climbey gears at the expense of the speedy ones. I cannot remember the last time I was in a 44-11, but that's just me.

    Thirdly (or C) you can run an offset double crank not at all unlike our Mr. Whirly offset double (again, like the Neck Romancer or Moonlander) or the new O.D. crank that Bob so deftly explained on Tuesday of this week.

  23. #973
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    click this thread:
    Krampus builds - post em here!

    member here is running standard Shimano XT double cranks with 10 speed cassette, no tyre rub, about 5mm clearance on biggest rear/smallest front combo.

  24. #974
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulljammer View Post
    Hey Saltyman, couple quick questions: what size is the Moonlander? How tall are you and your inseam? Moonie or Krampus? Thanks in advance.
    6ft with 32" inside leg....moony is a 20" large and I opted for the medium krampus to allow more room offroad....plus the taller wheel will raise the height a tad....as in my pics.

    I use 780mm bars and a 400mm straight post with a 20mm setback, there's still 180mm of post in seat tube. its a perfect fit despite looking like a bmx when I first seen it!

    I used my moonlander for everything last year, but wanted to give it a break this year, hence the Fargo and krampus.

    The krampus is like a mans bmx....huge fun and very fast, with traction and those 29er+ wheels roll over anything.
    Last edited by saltyman; 03-12-2013 at 12:23 PM.
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  25. #975
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    Quote Originally Posted by renegade44 View Post
    I believe Surly pointed this out on their blog. Did you find something to the contrary?

    Blog | Surly Bikes
    nope, the idea was to add more info about specific combinations

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