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Thread: Surly Krampus

  1. #801
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    Chris King Griplock InSet 1 Headset
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly Krampus-krampus1.jpg  


  2. #802
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    I used a InSet 7 with the DEVO baseplate due to Surly's "recommendations" for an external lower cup... which was on their website for a week or so. But the InSet 1 should work fine too.

    The plus side of the 7 is that if I wanted to eventually rock a modern suspension fork with a tapered steer, I could take advantage. Plus e'rryone oohs and ahhs at the huge-ass-ness of it all.

  3. #803
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    Robothoooooooooooooouse!!!!!

    (Sorry, big Futurama fan and couldn't resist.)

  4. #804
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    Quote Originally Posted by robothouse View Post
    I used a InSet 7 with the DEVO baseplate due to Surly's "recommendations" for an external lower cup... which was on their website for a week or so. But the InSet 1 should work fine too.

    The plus side of the 7 is that if I wanted to eventually rock a modern suspension fork with a tapered steer, I could take advantage. Plus e'rryone oohs and ahhs at the huge-ass-ness of it all.
    I thought about using the 7 but decided my big ass makes everything on my bike look small :-).

  5. #805
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    Re: Surly Krampus

    Just finished building my wheels.
    Rabbit Holes, silver Hope Pro 2 evos, green dt swiss nipples, Sapim double butted silver spokes, sparkly tape for rim strip, one layer of wide stans tape. This is a tubeless setup.

    Last edited by thickfog; 02-09-2013 at 07:40 AM.

  6. #806
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    Coolness

    [QUOTE=thickfog;10146844]Just finished building my wheels.
    Rabbit Holes, silver Hope Pro 2 evos, green dt swiss nipples, Sapim double butted silver spokes, sparkly tape for rim strip, one layer of wide stans tape. This is a tubeless setup.


    Where did you get the sparkly tape?

  7. #807
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    Re: Surly Krampus

    [QUOTE=Tripower;10148057]
    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Just finished building my wheels.
    Rabbit Holes, silver Hope Pro 2 evos, green dt swiss nipples, Sapim double butted silver spokes, sparkly tape for rim strip, one layer of wide stans tape. This is a tubeless setup.


    Where did you get the sparkly tape?
    Tape brothers. Tapebrothers.com

  8. #808
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    Tires packed up quickly with thicker mud as I was expecting, but they did surprisingly well on wet, slippery rocks and creek crossings. I had the tire pressure a little high for the conditions; slight spinning on some uphills, but I'm still amazed by the traction.


  9. #809
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1clyde View Post
    Well.....some more experiments and lo and behold a Krampus with 120mm's of tasty front suspension!

    Rabbit Hole Rim:

    Attachment 769165
    Well it looks like the tire fits with no problem. From the early diameter specs posted it must be shorter in production. I measured and originally it was not going to fit by quite a bit.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  10. #810
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Just finished building my wheels.
    Rabbit Holes, silver Hope Pro 2 evos, green dt swiss nipples, Sapim double butted silver spokes, sparkly tape for rim strip, one layer of wide stans tape. This is a tubeless setup.

    I like! How is the tubeless holding? Running a bit more or less air?
    The 120 TPI tires are on the way so I am thinking tubeless has to be tried
    Looking forward to hearing your feedback on the setup!
    What is thy bidding, my master.

  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1x1clyde View Post
    I like! How is the tubeless holding? Running a bit more or less air?
    The 120 TPI tires are on the way so I am thinking tubeless has to be tried
    Looking forward to hearing your feedback on the setup!
    This interesting, I thought that the fatter, fewer threads of the lower tpi tire were more suitable for tubeless. I thought this was due to greater abrasion resistance and stiffer sidewalls.

    Is there something else going on?

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    I was being sarcastic, I've my share of Surly and Salsa stuff. Although it just occurred to me that maybe the Surly/Salsa/QBP thing isn't common knowledge. But it certainly is known by Mikesee
    And AllCity, Foundry Cycles, 45North, Civia, Problems Solvers

  13. #813
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    Re: Surly Krampus

    Bike is not finished yet. We have tons of snow on the trails so I've been taking advantage of that for snow biking.

    Tubeless is fine so far holding air. I don't expect any issues on the trail, but this is Michigan. It's all buff, flowy, easy single track. Very few rocks or anything beyond a 3 foot drop.

    I got my uma 90s with holes and bfl set up tubeless successfully, so these are easy in comparison.

    To me 120 tpi have been harder to get the sidewall leaks under control. Less rubber, more fabric. But these 120tpi knards are pretty darn solid with the rubber still.

  14. #814
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    Yep another Krampus build...

    Have had my medium since the 17th of January and really enjoying the heck out of it!

    Surly Krampus-734800_10151352960556506_1861344949_n.jpg In the shop

    Surly Krampus-543833_10151352775671506_1444768805_n.jpg Ghetto tubeless using 24" tubes split, surly rim strip, Stans sauce. Been running them around 10psi with no issues!

    Surly Krampus-710951_10151184357500685_195386172_n.jpgSurly Krampus-565309_10151184358270685_1124434678_n.jpgSurly Krampus-565979_10151184373145685_705013889_n.jpg

    Surly Krampus-542457_10151194862165685_573109160_n.jpg Racing on snowy mtb trails!

    Just got dumped on here in Minneapolis and looking forward to trying er out in some real snow.

    Setup:
    Med Surly Krampus, Im 5'9" 31.5" inseam fits like a dream based upon upcoming stock build.
    Pink Chris King hubs laced to Rabbitholes (680gm per rim), brass nips dbl butted spokes
    Surly 120tpi Knards (700gm per tire) set up tubeless
    Pink CK BB
    Pink CK headset
    Avid BB7s 180 front, 160rear Paul love levers
    SLX 10spd 12-36 cassette
    Sram x.9 rear der (new version) and shifter no chain keeper needed and no issues
    Race Face Evolve handlebar (720mm), 70mm stem, cranks converted to single with 36T RF single
    Jagwire cables and housing, etc
    Crank Bro Candy 2
    Weight approximately 28 lbs

  15. #815
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    If anyone has a Knard and a Reba at hand - I'd be curious if there is the clearance to run that combo like there appears to be with the Float 29.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    If anyone has a Knard and a Reba at hand - I'd be curious if there is the clearance to run that combo like there appears to be with the Float 29.
    Having test ridden a few bikes with a Reba fork and now seeing the Knard on a RH rim, I can tell you it won't work...

  17. #817
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch rides a SS View Post
    I must do tubeless then



    Does anyone know what size Paul chain keeper fits the Krampus? 28.6 or 31.8?
    I'm not using a chain keeper and so far no issues....I am using a SRAM x.9 type 2 rear fwiw

  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripower View Post
    Yep. 120tpi.
    out of 4 tires the weights were as follows: 930, 890, 700, 700 for 120tpi. Rabbitholes were as follows: 680, 680, 690, 700

  19. #819
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    Are you guys seriously getting Knards that weigh 700 grams? Mine were 947 and 939 (120 tpi). That's a pretty big weight range.

  20. #820
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    Are the complete bikes for sale now.?
    Where can I buy a knard tire? Thx

  21. #821
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    Are you guys seriously getting Knards that weigh 700 grams? Mine were 947 and 939 (120 tpi). That's a pretty big weight range.
    That's a pretty big tire. Small variations in the layup of the carcass could result in the variations you are seeing.

    I was interested in tire-making, so recently watched some videos of tire manufacture. There is a surprising amount of hand labor in making tires. It's a wonder that they every get two just alike.
    "Head injuries are pretty high-consequence" - AndrwSwitch

  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavyRay View Post
    That's a pretty big tire. Small variations in the layup of the carcass could result in the variations you are seeing.

    I was interested in tire-making, so recently watched some videos of tire manufacture. There is a surprising amount of hand labor in making tires. It's a wonder that they every get two just alike.
    A 250 gram variation?
    Noogie...Noogie...Noogie.

  23. #823
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    I just finished building my Krampus with rabbit holes and knards.

    I laced the rabbit holes using a 3x cross-lace pattern. cross-lacing is where spokes from the right flange go to the holes on the left side of the rim. The idea is that the greater bracing angle leads to greater lateral strength with a relatively small loss of vertical strength.

    I researched this and read mostly negative reviews. Fly Bikes, a bmx company, produces rims specifically designed to be laced like this, with the rim orienting the nipples to face the oppposite flange.

    With rabbit holes, there is barely a perceptible bend in the spoke as it comes out of the nipple. I used the hex head brass dt nipples, which were far better than any other nipple I've ever used. I didn't even touch a spoke wrench for the whole build. I started with a 5.5mm socket on a screwdriver handle to get each nipple started and then I came back with a corded electric drill to screw down each nipple until exactly no threads were showing. I used spokes measured for a non-cross-laced build and was totally, unquestioningly fine, but 1mm more spokes would have been a bit better. After the drill, I put the socket onto a small ratchet and finished tensioning and mild truing; from this point I only had to tighten drive-side spokes and disc-side in the front due to the spokes having a bit of tension when the threads were just covered.

    Nothing finicky, easy to true using regular methods. the only thing confusing, especially when operating with a ratchet/drill from the tire side of the rim is that you have to remember that the nipple on the right goes to the left flange. with a spoke wrench you would constantly see this. I had no trouble keeping track and built the second wheel in less than an hour.

    I hope this works out well and I have super strong wheels. I rode just around the parking lot, but its late and very wet out. I initially ran the one necessary spacer on the drive side with my bb and the chainline is too far out on the front, so I will next put the spacer to the non-ds.

    dt hex head nipples make building high tension 29er wheels far far easier than in the past! worth every penny.

    I"m 5'8" with around 31.5" inseam. I have almost 10.5" of seatpost showing, but the reach with a 100mm stem feels spot on for steep climbs. I'm riding a small based on ett, though in the past I typically rode mediums.

  24. #824
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    Re: Surly Krampus

    Quote Originally Posted by bluestatevirgin View Post
    A 250 gram variation?
    I want these 700g tires. That's only 50 more than my racing ralph 2.4s!

    Id say there's a layer or so missing! Maybe a misbuild/qc issue?

    I just don't see how a normal 120tpi knard can hit 700g. It's a huge tire.

  25. #825
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    Re: Surly Krampus

    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    I just finished building my Krampus with rabbit holes and knards.

    I laced the rabbit holes using a 3x cross-lace pattern. cross-lacing is where spokes from the right flange go to the holes on the left side of the rim. The idea is that the greater bracing angle leads to greater lateral strength with a relatively small loss of vertical strength.

    I researched this and read mostly negative reviews. Fly Bikes, a bmx company, produces rims specifically designed to be laced like this, with the rim orienting the nipples to face the oppposite flange.
    I don't think this is what cross lacing means per typical bike speak. A 3x lace would mean each spoke crosses 3 spokes on its way to the rim. You just "crossed" over to the opposite drilling.

    So what is the proper or best way to build these? I did not cross over. Was that a mistake or a preference? :banghead:

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