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  1. #1
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    SIR 9 Rust on TT Gusset

    Just throwing out a picture of the rust issue I am having on my SIR 9. I put up a pretty detailed review in the "Reviews" section but thought I'd shoot a pic in case anyone wanted to see the state it is in now. Basically developed over the winter due to a suspect paint void between the top tube and the gusset. It is not sealed at this point and moisture (ie. sweat) seeps into the void and begins to eat away at our precious steel. Check out your gusset people. Fix it/seal it now, or it will only get worse.

    Not doggin on Niner. Obviously love the bike and the brand. Everyone is prone to design flaws. Just hope they learn from it.

  2. #2
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    Theres far more moisture in the air than your body can produce from sweating in ones lifetime.

    Was'nt the Godzilla Green color thier first generation? I could be wrong, but I think the manufacture addressed this issue.

    Regardless, steal is going to rust. It has to have some degree of care.

  3. #3
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    Yeah, it probably was a left over 2008 or something. Had it built up in late 2009. I think the 2009's had the newer BB. But the bike I saw this weekend (in a showroom) still had the same gusset design. Not sure of the vintage of that frame. If Niner fixed the issue, then we should find out what Model Year the change was made so people can be informed.

  4. #4
    Mulleticious
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    SIR 9 frame care

    I just bought the same frame on eBay and built it up as a SS, but noticed a fair bit of rust inside the bottom bracket area and headtube. I tried to sand as much as I could away, and sprayed oil inside the whole frame, into any orifice I could find, and jiggled it about.
    Is this enough to protect the frame?
    (its my favourite bike and I want it to last!)

  5. #5
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    If it has rust inside it probably wasn't frame saved. (Although some rust can still develop if the frame save didn't get applied correctly, etc. I would check down the seat tube with a bright white light and see how it looks. Also, roll up a white dish rag or other and stuff it down there and give it a good twist. If it comes back all rusty, it will need a good cleaning.

    I'm thinking about just stripping my bike completely, media blasting the entire frame and getting a re-paint. I too want my bike to last forever. Too damn much money to be replacing a frame after a couple of years.

  6. #6
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    surface rust isn't going to effect the frames strength it is just ugly.

    get over the fact you bike isn't new anymore and ride the damn thing (follow the advice on the toptube).

    all my steel bikes have rust, most of that the rust is covered in dirt.

    if you can't get over a little surface rust aluminum or titainium bikes are probably a better choice for you.

  7. #7
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    True that. Surface rust won't be an issue. Look at all of the Vintage Scene bikes that are coming back. You think those are nice and shiny inside? They didn't even have frame saver back in the day. Although they were built with pipe instead of tubing! (Joking obviously, but need to clarify for some). Just watch the TT Gusset and coat the frame after you clean it out. You should be good to go for 20-50 years.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by spencerfrater1 View Post
    I just bought the same frame on eBay and built it up as a SS, but noticed a fair bit of rust inside the bottom bracket area and headtube. I tried to sand as much as I could away, and sprayed oil inside the whole frame, into any orifice I could find, and jiggled it about.
    Is this enough to protect the frame?
    (its my favourite bike and I want it to last!)
    That is how I "frame saved" my Cro-Mo 1990 RockHopper. It is still a solid utility bike. I did seal the vent holes in the tubes with silicone, though. It has been in the river lots of times.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  9. #9
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    Niner Rider -

    First I want to thank you for being a loyal Niner Rider, we only make products that we love and want to ride and it makes our day when others feel the same way. We all hold our steel bikes closest to our hearts and they all have a special place in our personal lineups.

    There is more care involved in steel bike ownership than with other materials. In our encyclopedia and In the included owners manual, we have a bit about steel care and preventative maintenence, http://www.ninerbikes.com/downloadfl...RS_UNIVERS.pdf .

    Sweat can be extremely corrosive to all materials. It is recommended to give your bike a quick rinse and wipedown regardless of the material it is made of, but especially if you have been dripping sweat on the top tube. Salt water eats through just about anything.

    As for the gusset on the toptube - through our testing we found that welding the back part of the gussett produced results that were not up to our longevity requirements, and it significantly changes ride feel.

    As to getting your frame where it needs to be to last your as many years as possible, I would recommend giving it a light sanding where you can see rust then spraying some frame saver in between your gussett and the top tube. Let it settle in for about a day, a little might ooze out. Then use the touch up paint that we are sending you to lock it all in place. I would also take this opportunity to re-up on the frame saver inside the frame, you can never have too much of that stuff.

    Thanks,
    Eric - Niner Bikes Engineering Tech
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    Passion. Commitment. 29ers only.

    Follow all things Niner Bikes on Facebook!www.ninerbikes.com

  10. #10
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    Thanks Eric. Do you recommend any sort of cleaner under the gusset prior to the frame save? Or just spray it in there? I can clean off the edge and the top, but would like to make sure the underside is good to go. But if Frame Save neutralizes the rust, I'll just do that.

    I have to frame save my Pugsley this week anyway so I'll just do both.

    BTW: Only bought the Pugs because Niner hasn't caught on to the new "trend"

  11. #11
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    Frame Saver ingredients?

    Not having access to some things mentioned on MTBR (like proper Frame Saver), I'm wondering if the oil spray I used will do a similar job.
    Anyone know what is in this Frame Saver magic potion?

  12. #12
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    any bike shop should be able to order frame saver. QBP#LU7500

  13. #13
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    JP Weigles Frame Saver doesn't neutralize rust. Its best before rust appears.

    You either have rust forming on the edge of a gusset (not a big deal) or its rusting under the gusset. If its rusting under gusset (between weld and curved area) then oxidation is going to gradually increase. In this case I would highly suggest you neutralize it. Metal oxidation in these tight areas are much more serious when compared to out in the open surface rust - which can be stopped or stalled with simple petroleum based chemicals (WD40, T-9, ect).

    Here are a few products I've used in classic car restoration:
    What is Por-15? - POR-15 Inc.

    Rust Converter Frequently Asked Questions | Gempler's

    The big advantage you have is the gauge of the frame.

  14. #14
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    I'm still not convinced that framesaver is necessary. I'd like to see a scientific study, but it would take decades to run. If it were really that big of a problem, you wouldn't see all those steel frames that are built up as complete bikes without any rustproofing whatsoever. Not just all the older bikes, but new bikes by Kona, Jamis, Surly, Salsa, etc. That being said, it sure would be nice if more of the steel frames were E.D. coated like All-City. I wonder why more manufacturers don't do that?

  15. #15
    cvs
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    Yep my first gen. SIR 9 kermit green did the same thing ; Loved that color, it lived inside with me when not being ridden dried and cleaned it all the time. But still only took one winter season. Take care of it right away or it gets worse. I got the next gen. frame and the gussets on the top tube and down tube had been welded in and painted. Living in the Willamette Valley I think it's a must. The "pedal damn it" also forces you to sweat all over. It's been a few years now and no rust and no fatigue or cracks in the gussets, and I ride rigid and fairly hard on it. Personally I can't tell a difference between the bikes.

  16. #16
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    I'm fairly sure the rust is between the frame and gusset. If it is already bubbling past the edge under the paint, the opposite side is obviously suspect. I've got some work to do to save it long term. Can't let it die just yet. And I wouldn't feel right about selling it off in this condition.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Niner Rider View Post
    I've got some work to do to save it long term. Can't let it die just yet.
    It's a 29er so this fad won't last long enough

    J/K

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoCo29er View Post
    any bike shop should be able to order frame saver. QBP#LU7500
    If you live in the US perhaps.


    Rave On - so it sounds like my liberal spraying of 3 in 1 should at least stall the surface rust I have on the insides of the tubes?

    I guess living in an area of high humidity doesn't help much either...
    Last edited by BigwheelsRbest; 04-03-2012 at 10:35 PM. Reason: clarification

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by spencerfrater1 View Post
    Rave On - so it sounds like my liberal spraying of 3 in 1 should at least stall the surface rust I have on the insides of the tubes?
    Sure.

    You could go to a local marine supply store and find many good products. A product I've used is "CRC corrosion inhibitor." It leaves a heavy coating so you can store bare metal parts for a very long time.


  20. #20
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    Did the OP's pic disappear? Sweat, my a$$.

  21. #21
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    I believe it, I've personally seen a bike in my shop that had so much sweat damage that the headset was completely frozen and the top tube was down to bare aluminium and was corroding.

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