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  1. #1
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    Rock Shox Reba SL 29er Dual air 100mm Problem

    Anyone have any issues with this shock? Mine isnt locking out. It doesnt seem to travel all the way down either. It's a 2010 model. My local bike shop says I blew a seal and that's fairly common. They want $60 for the taredown I have no idea what there going to charge for a .10 "O" ring. I'm not getting a warm fuzzy on this one. Anyone else experience this type of issue with the REBA?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmascagni
    Anyone have any issues with this shock? Mine isnt locking out. It doesnt seem to travel all the way down either. It's a 2010 model. My local bike shop says I blew a seal and that's fairly common. They want $60 for the taredown I have no idea what there going to charge for a .10 "O" ring. I'm not getting a warm fuzzy on this one. Anyone else experience this type of issue with the REBA?
    I have the Reba Race 100mm on my 29er. A great shock with a loyal following.
    First we have to establish what you mean about not locking out. The Reba NEVER locks out dead solid. This is by design intent which I appreciate now having owned it. The shock when locked has about 10-15mm of travel. When you stand and mash this will not cause the bike to bounce but it is a feature that builds some forgivness if you hit that unintended pot hole when locked out that may blow out another shock.
    There is tons of information out on the web about rebuilding the Reba including PDF downloads showing procedures and exploded views. Sram is great about their warranty.
    If the shock is relatively new and it really IS defective they will stand behind it. If out of warranty it can be rebuilt inexpensively. The Reba is my favorite shock for the $$.
    Hope that helps.

  3. #3
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    For a 2010 model, parts are under warranty. But labor is not covered for fork teardown, unless its sent back to RS for repai.


    The only seal that is "common" on the RS forks is the one that seperates the upper chamber from the lower chamber, and its not that common on the new forks for this to fail. It was an issue on the older forks for when a RS fork would not compress due to hydrolocking, but haven't seen any on the new forks. But sounds like thats your issue.

  4. #4
    aka "SirLurkAlot"
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    Try this ; add a bunch of floodgate and see if that cures your problem.

    SL should have internal adjustment for Floodgate (ie allen/hex head wrench).

    Is it still not locking out after doing this?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider7
    I have the Reba Race 100mm on my 29er. A great shock with a loyal following.
    First we have to establish what you mean about not locking out. The Reba NEVER locks out dead solid. This is by design intent which I appreciate now having owned it. The shock when locked has about 10-15mm of travel. When you stand and mash this will not cause the bike to bounce but it is a feature that builds some forgivness if you hit that unintended pot hole when locked out that may blow out another shock.
    There is tons of information out on the web about rebuilding the Reba including PDF downloads showing procedures and exploded views. Sram is great about their warranty.
    If the shock is relatively new and it really IS defective they will stand behind it. If out of warranty it can be rebuilt inexpensively. The Reba is my favorite shock for the $$.
    Hope that helps.
    It's more than the 10-15mm of travel. There is no diffrence when I lock it compared to open.

  6. #6
    aka "SirLurkAlot"
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    Did you add Floodgate?

  7. #7
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    As suggested,Rock Shox has a great PDF manual that shows and explains everything, download it and give it a look over. Tear down requires a 5mm allen key, 10mm wrench/spanner, 24mm socket/spanner, snap ring pliers (bird beak/needle nose can also work) and some 15w oil. Your oil level in the MC (motion control) damper could be low (manual explains this), so check that before you go freaking. As FRD said, used to be an old problem having the air getting by from POS to NEG on the older Rebas, which was easily solved by generally lubing the seal (o-ring) or replacing it - again, check the manual.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsakkire
    Did you add Floodgate?
    YES in the locked position I took a 2.5 mm allan wrench and turned it compleletly clockwise. It was actually already fully turned. I tried adjusting the floodgate in several diffrent positions but nothing.

  9. #9
    ballbuster
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    It's pretty easy to work on

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    As suggested,Rock Shox has a great PDF manual that shows and explains everything, download it and give it a look over. Tear down requires a 5mm allen key, 10mm wrench/spanner, 24mm socket/spanner, snap ring pliers (bird beak/needle nose can also work) and some 15w oil. Your oil level in the MC (motion control) damper could be low (manual explains this), so check that before you go freaking. As FRD said, used to be an old problem having the air getting by from POS to NEG on the older Rebas, which was easily solved by generally lubing the seal (o-ring) or replacing it - again, check the manual.
    Reba is pretty much dead simple inside. Not much to go wrong, just o-rings losing seal, the fork seals losing seal (and in many cases, cleaning them will fix it), and in extreme cases, the bushings and stanchions wearing out.

    That said, if it's under warranty, just send it back and have RS fix it.

  10. #10
    aka "SirLurkAlot"
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    If it's under warranty, it shouldn't cost you a dime. If not, here's what I would do.

    I've owned probably 8 Reba 29er's and still own 3. I purchased a couple that were used and had this same problem. In both cases, simply changing fluids and setting them at the proper levels cured the problem. In both cases it was oil level in the motion control side and not a seal. YMMV

    If you're going to do it yourself, some of these things might help.

    - purchase both the 5wt and 15wt oil (I buy from motorcycle shops)
    - buy a baby bottle with the ml marked on the sides (trust me - much easier to get proper fluid level this way)
    - buy a syringe that they use for children's med's (10ml)
    - several inches of tubing that will attach to the syringe : this allows you to squirt the 15ml of fluid past the damper rod on the lower assembly instead of into the bolt head (you will understand when you put it all back together)

    NOW : you don't have to remove the lower assembly to do any of this. You can simply pull the motion control damper out the top of the stanchion, remove the oil, add to proper level and see if you're cured.

    I would do the whole thing, off the bike so that you can learn to fix it and know that everything is lubed properly. But, that's me.

    I hope that helps. Good luck and keep us posted.

  11. #11
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    Don't take the whole fork apart... just unscrew the damper from the oil side and pour in some oil.

    If the oil was low, now it will lock. If the oil was ok, now you have too much oil and the fork will no longer get full travel.

    To test it out just compress the fork by hand with no air inside.

    You don't ned too many tools, just the allen key and pliers to remove the lockout knob, and the 24mm wrench for the damper.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsakkire
    If it's under warranty, it shouldn't cost you a dime. If not, here's what I would do.

    I've owned probably 8 Reba 29er's and still own 3. I purchased a couple that were used and had this same problem. In both cases, simply changing fluids and setting them at the proper levels cured the problem. In both cases it was oil level in the motion control side and not a seal. YMMV

    If you're going to do it yourself, some of these things might help.

    - purchase both the 5wt and 15wt oil (I buy from motorcycle shops)
    - buy a baby bottle with the ml marked on the sides (trust me - much easier to get proper fluid level this way)
    - buy a syringe that they use for children's med's (10ml)
    - several inches of tubing that will attach to the syringe : this allows you to squirt the 15ml of fluid past the damper rod on the lower assembly instead of into the bolt head (you will understand when you put it all back together)

    NOW : you don't have to remove the lower assembly to do any of this. You can simply pull the motion control damper out the top of the stanchion, remove the oil, add to proper level and see if you're cured.

    I would do the whole thing, off the bike so that you can learn to fix it and know that everything is lubed properly. But, that's me.

    I hope that helps. Good luck and keep us posted.
    Ok I think I will go ahead and give this a go. A couple of quick questions.
    1) Should I remove all the air from the shock?
    2) What kind of oil does it matter? When do I use the 5wt and when do I use the 15wt? Any particular brand?


    What about this.......
    What if I open the floodgate all the way (Counter clockwise) put shock in lockout and set the bike upside down for an hour or so? Do you think the fluid would settle back down in the motion control unit?

  13. #13
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    the fork is supposed to work right with the oil where it is right now. don't put the bike upside down, it will act lke it doesn't have enough oil for a while (until it all flows down again). also the seals on top of the moco are notoriously bad, the fork might leak from the lockout knob.

  14. #14
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    Go here:
    http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=...h#grid/uploads
    Watch the following vids:
    Lower leg removal
    Motion control service
    Dual air service
    Lower leg installation

    Also download the repair manual from SRAM.com

  15. #15
    aka "SirLurkAlot"
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmascagni
    Ok I think I will go ahead and give this a go. A couple of quick questions.
    1) Should I remove all the air from the shock?
    2) What kind of oil does it matter? When do I use the 5wt and when do I use the 15wt? Any particular brand?


    What about this.......
    What if I open the floodgate all the way (Counter clockwise) put shock in lockout and set the bike upside down for an hour or so? Do you think the fluid would settle back down in the motion control unit?
    1. Yes, you will need to remove all of the air. Download the manual and follow it step by step. It's not complicated but you should follow the instructions. I didn't watch the video link by another member but that's probably a good first step - possibly watch it a couple of times first.

    2. It doesn't matter what kind (brand) of oil you use. The weight is very important however. The folks at the moto shop can help you find what you need.

    3. The oil weight is outlined in the manual. Basically, you use 123ml of 5wt in your motion control side (top, right), 5ml of 15wt on the top of the left leg (opposite side) and then 10ml of 15wt in the bottom of each leg. Once again, it's all in the manual (page 6 of the 2009). You need to download the 2009 or newer manual. Earlier forks were a little different.

    Turning your fork upside down will do nothing. The motion control is simply a valve stack that rests in the center of the stanchion and controls oil flowing through it. It doesn't separate the stanchion in half so turning it upside down will have no effect.

    When you pull the motion control stack out, inspect it. Take the time to look at the bottom of it as you move the floodgate open and closed. There is a disc that will rotate on the bottom of it.

    The reason that I suggest doing the whole fork instead of just the MoCo is that it's cheap insurance from other problems. If you are going to go to the trouble to do part of it, why not do it all? It's important that you have that small amount (5ml, 10ml) in the other parts as well. If it weren't, they wouldn't spec it that way. Seals work better when in contact with oil versus dry and shrinking.

    As another member mentioned, you can "test" the oil level theory by simply adding more (ie too much) and cause the fork to hydro lock.

    Tips: have plenty of rags/towels handy and place a clean towel on your bench to place parts and the fork on. Also, a spray bottle (buy one) filled with rubbing alcohol is another useful tool. It will help you clean the fork inside and out. None of these tools costs a lot of money but they will make it so much easier and more enjoyable to get it done right.

    If you do muddle through it yourself, you'll learn a ton and build the confidence to tear it down on a regular basis. A good shop can do the same but the knowledge you gain is really key. It's not for everyone and some feel better taking it to a shop. Either way, get it fixed so you can ride!

  16. #16
    JMH
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    Agreed! Download the manual and get in there. In my experience, about 80% of my fork issues vanish with a simple overhaul/cleaning, even if I don't find a specific problem while I have it open.

    JMH

  17. #17
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    Did you find out what was causing the no lockout issue? I have a 2011 29er RLT Ti that has the same issue. It's been back to RS already and I just re-installed it with no noticable difference . The only difference is the compression seems slower but still get almost full travel in the lockout position. I think it might go on ebay and buy a Fox.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwick37
    Did you find out what was causing the no lockout issue? I have a 2011 29er RLT Ti that has the same issue. It's been back to RS already and I just re-installed it with no noticable difference . The only difference is the compression seems slower but still get almost full travel in the lockout position. I think it might go on ebay and buy a Fox.
    Mine had a blown lower seal. It's being shipped from Chicago and I'm hoping to have the bike back up in running in the next couple of days. I'm in no rush as it's too cold to ride here. Yeah I'm pretty upset the shock has less than 20 miles on it. Mines an 2010.

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