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  1. #1
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    Relative price to quality ratio of used bikes/age

    When looking at used bikes, how far back is too back?

    Is a $3000 bike from 2013 thatís now $1200 bucks better than say a $2000 bike form 2016 thatís now priced at the same $1200 bucks.

    Given how much specs change, just curious on the general concensus of what could be considered a smart buy.

    Given that things like stems/bars and tires are reasonably priced upgrades....what are the make or break specs that you look for.

  2. #2
    transmitter~receiver
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    consensus is $952/model-year discount to the CPI-adjusted net present value margin over the quality-indexed bang-for-buck quotient... theoretically speaking.
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  3. #3
    ejj
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    Ha--depends on the wear components. Has the suspension been serviced? A lot of people sell their bikes when the ride degrades--usually because they haven't taken care of their forks and shock.

    Are the tires in good shape? Even if they are, are they the tires you would want?

    Many things to consider.

  4. #4
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    Totally depends on budget

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    consensus is $952/model-year discount to the CPI-adjusted net present value margin over the quality-indexed bang-for-buck quotient... theoretically speaking.
    Exactly.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejj View Post
    Ha--depends on the wear components. Has the suspension been serviced? A lot of people sell their bikes when the ride degrades--usually because they haven't taken care of their forks and shock.

    Are the tires in good shape? Even if they are, are they the tires you would want?

    Many things to consider.
    Thatís probably true.

    Itís tough to figure out what to buy. Iíve seen some nice older stuff for cheap these days, but for around the same price...you can get something newer, just was lower on the food chain when new.

  7. #7
    WillWorkForTrail
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    The thing about new stuff - and I mean the stuff of the past year or so - is that it's SOOO good. People don't think about it a whole lot, but even, for instance, GX Eagle. We've reached a point where we expect this stuff to work, but even compared to a 5 year old bike with XT 2x10 - I don't care how good the front derailleur worked on that, it's not as good as simply not having to deal with a front derailleur. And the reality is that it shifts so cleanly....it's because not only has technology gotten better, it's trickled down too. So even a mid-grade suspension fork from some of these companies is better than the high end one was 5 years ago. Maybe the more expensive fork has a little additional adjustment, but fundamentally the damper may not be as good as today's mid grade fork.

    My advice? Ride some new stuff in your price range, and look at the used stuff in your price range. Remember if you're buying used, unless the owner has paperwork showing recent service on suspension/pivots you probably need to figure on spending money on that when you buy the bike. Make certain you check the condition of the chain ring and cassette. There's some good used stuff to be had, just try to make sure you aren't buying someone else's problem because it looks better than something you can get new, which may well come with a warranty instead of someone else's problem.

  8. #8
    Gimme free stuff
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    I always look to buy one year old with low mileage (indicated by drivetrain, tires, brake pads, etc). This applies to bikes and cars. Usually you can get ~25% off list (with bikes).

    You get *most* of the new standards - the only issue is if there is a major change like boost. I buy used, get the suspension serviced professionally (the first time only) and tune the rest of the bike myself. It is also a good idea to do a complete tear down and really inspect everything when you receive it. When I bought my last bike I tore it down and the freehub was shattered. Disintegrated as soon as the cassette was removed. Fortunately, with 1 year old stuff it may be under warranty. I got a new freehub for free
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  9. #9
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    Second the thoughts on wear and I'll add things like BB bearings and frame bearings. Often a 'beat' bike becomes like new with a couple hundo in parts and a decent mechanic.

  10. #10
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    The deals i look for are quality bikes with a single rider 150 pounds or less, i will not buy from a 200 pounds due to extra stress.
    1 to 10 years when well maintained
    i like simple bikes fat no suspension
    hardtail 27 speeds XTR pre disc brakes 26 in real fun paid 350$ 10 months ago(would be 2,600$ new), i use city grocery shopping 12 months snow here, trails
    hardtail 29 in 21 pounds carbon frame no name paid 1,000$ would have been 4,800$ new if trek 11 speeds SRAM Sid Rockshock
    many bikes colect dust
    it takes time but we can find a wiling seller, easier done off season, the idea is to buy when few are buying

  11. #11
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    I'd have to say depending on if it's an FS or HT and the components, I'd more lean towards the newer bike. Reasons being, it will most likely have most of the newer "standards", so you'll find it easier to find parts when you need them relative to a 4 year old design, which these days is like 2 generations behind with how "standards" change. As has been said, today, even the "low end" stuff like GX and Deore are very good.

    Also, if the 2016 is new, from a shop, that means it also will most likely have a warranty, which could be a very important thing. Another thing is you should have support from the local shop on the 2016 should anything happen.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 12xu-79 View Post
    When looking at used bikes, how far back is too back?

    Is a $3000 bike from 2013 thatís now $1200 bucks better than say a $2000 bike form 2016 thatís now priced at the same $1200 bucks.

    Given how much specs change, just curious on the general concensus of what could be considered a smart buy.

    Given that things like stems/bars and tires are reasonably priced upgrades....what are the make or break specs that you look for.
    Changes can come in waves. Right now things are changing fast. The slack hta short chainstay design is recent and it's a big deal. 142x12 rear axles were a big improvement over qr boost not so much.

    I start the price at 75 percent of msrp, then about 10 percent per year deduction from there

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