Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    19

    Niner EMD 100mm vs 120mm Fork

    I have a 2013 Niner EMD with the stock 100mm fork and I am thinking of converting to a 120mm fork. I would like to have a little more of travel and for the geometry to be a bit more slack... I am 6'3"/285lbs. I am riding Bent Creek and Dupont mostly.

    Niner says they cannot "recommend" it, but I am willing to take the chance on voiding the warranty for a better feel. I met a guy on the trail last weekend who has a Air 9 with a 120mm and loves it! Also, there are some other brands out there with the same frame specs that recommend a 120mm fork.

    I know this topic has visited before, but I would like some new insight if anyone has it to offer. Pics would be great!

    Thank you very much!
    Phosphate Rider

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Captain_America1976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,701
    Niner ROS
    Canfield Yeli Screamy
    Canfield Nimble 9
    Kona Honzo
    etc.
    All can run a 120 - 140 fork with no issues. I owned both Canfields at one point, and they are both great frames.

    Yeli with a 140mm fork
    Niner EMD 100mm vs 120mm Fork-20131227_195409_zpsc6b75adb.jpg

    Nimble9 with a 120mm fork
    Niner EMD 100mm vs 120mm Fork-nimblegreen.jpg

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    19
    I really like the Niner ROS.. Any thoughts on putting a 120mm fork on the EMD? I'm not looking to purchase another bike right not.

    Thanks for the reply
    Phosphate Rider

  4. #4
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,010
    I think the general rule of thumb is that for every 10mm of travel change you will change the HTA by approximately 1*. So if the EMD with 100mm fork has a HTA of 70* then by going to 120mm you will drop to about 68*. However, you also have to throw the particular forks A-C in there as well as that will change things up a bit when changing forks. If your have a current fork that has a longer A-C and grab one with longer travel but similar A-C then you will feel minimal difference from my understanding.
    Inbred 29r (Purple People Eater)
    HH Thumper (Blackheart)
    Bikes for Boobs F*ck Cancer! One too many, 6/24/13. Miss ya ma'.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Captain_America1976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,701
    Quote Originally Posted by phosphaterider View Post
    I really like the Niner ROS.. Any thoughts on putting a 120mm fork on the EMD? I'm not looking to purchase another bike right not.

    Thanks for the reply
    What fork do you currently have? You could extend it to 120 to see if you like it, if you don't put it back to 100.
    In addition to slackening the HTA it will also raise your BB a bit.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: borabora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    578
    I ride an EMD with a 90mm fork and love it. Handles great. The frame is so beefy that I doubt that a 120mm will cause problems even if you are not exactly a light-weight. I can't speak for the handling changes and if people like their hard tails with 120 or 140mm forks more power to them. But personally, I don't see the point. Your rear wheel remains unsprung. If you need or want more suspension then I don't think you really need it in the front -- you need a full suspension bike. If it's just a matter of removing a spacer in your current fork then it's maybe worth a try but spend money on the change? I don't think it's a good cost-benefit mod. Just my $0.02...

  7. #7
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,010
    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    I ride an EMD with a 90mm fork and love it. Handles great. The frame is so beefy that I doubt that a 120mm will cause problems even if you are not exactly a light-weight. I can't speak for the handling changes and if people like their hard tails with 120 or 140mm forks more power to them. But personally, I don't see the point. Your rear wheel remains unsprung. If you need or want more suspension then I don't think you really need it in the front -- you need a full suspension bike. If it's just a matter of removing a spacer in your current fork then it's maybe worth a try but spend money on the change? I don't think it's a good cost-benefit mod. Just my $0.02...
    That is not necessarily true because the adjustment in more fork travel is sometimes needed for those trails that are more technical... Ever tried to ride you 90mm bike through a technical rock garden with some 2-3' drops? I thought that 100mm on my steel Inbred 29er with big tires would be enough. And while the bike handled the situations fine, the benefit seen of a longer travel fork, effectively putting the wheel down sooner, became quickly apparent.

    So it all comes down to the right tool/weapon for the job. If you are riding PURE XC that is buff, fairly flat with no technical sections (or only light technical sections) then having something with more than 90mm travel would be overkill. But in hilly areas, with more technical riding and climbing then the process for more travel becomes apparent. So without intimately knowing the OPs terrain, riding style, etc. then we cannot say that anything over 120mm is overkill.
    Inbred 29r (Purple People Eater)
    HH Thumper (Blackheart)
    Bikes for Boobs F*ck Cancer! One too many, 6/24/13. Miss ya ma'.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: borabora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    578
    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    That is not necessarily true because the adjustment in more fork travel is sometimes needed for those trails that are more technical... Ever tried to ride you 90mm bike through a technical rock garden with some 2-3' drops? I thought that 100mm on my steel Inbred 29er with big tires would be enough. And while the bike handled the situations fine, the benefit seen of a longer travel fork, effectively putting the wheel down sooner, became quickly apparent.

    So it all comes down to the right tool/weapon for the job. If you are riding PURE XC that is buff, fairly flat with no technical sections (or only light technical sections) then having something with more than 90mm travel would be overkill. But in hilly areas, with more technical riding and climbing then the process for more travel becomes apparent. So without intimately knowing the OPs terrain, riding style, etc. then we cannot say that anything over 120mm is overkill.
    Well, as I stated before, to each their own. I ride rigid, hard tail and full-suspension bikes based on terrain and mood. When a 90 or 100 mm hard tail isn't the right tool then in my opinion a 120 mm hard tail won't be much better but a full-suspension bike is called for. There is a reason why most hard tails don't ship with more than a 100 mm fork.

    If the OP has the opportunity to try a 120 mm on familiar trails without the commitment to keep it then I'd say go for it. But if it's a matter of a $600 investment that cannot be reversed I'd make sure that expectations are fairly low.

  9. #9
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    17,909
    NO, absolutely wrong, for about every inch/25mm you get a 1 degree change in HTA, don't know WTF you got that 10mm=1 degree from The rest about the actual forks Axle to Crown=A2C, is absolutely right, with Fox normally having the longest A2Cs, so alot of their 100mm forks are actually only maybe 10mm shorter in A2C than say a 120mm travel RS, ,so check that out when looking at your new fork.

    As to the safety of it - seems alot of people do it, but if I were on the heavier side like you, I personally wouldn't risk my health, I'd buy the right frame instead of trying to jury-rig that EMD, which is a light weight XC frame, something like the Kona Honzo, Canfield YS or Nimble9, Banshee Paradox...

    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    I think the general rule of thumb is that for every 10mm of travel change you will change the HTA by approximately 1*. So if the EMD with 100mm fork has a HTA of 70* then by going to 120mm you will drop to about 68*. However, you also have to throw the particular forks A-C in there as well as that will change things up a bit when changing forks. If your have a current fork that has a longer A-C and grab one with longer travel but similar A-C then you will feel minimal difference from my understanding.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
    MTB Barbados
    My Phantom pics

  10. #10
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,010
    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    Well, as I stated before, to each their own. I ride rigid, hard tail and full-suspension bikes based on terrain and mood. When a 90 or 100 mm hard tail isn't the right tool then in my opinion a 120 mm hard tail won't be much better but a full-suspension bike is called for. There is a reason why most hard tails don't ship with more than a 100 mm fork.

    If the OP has the opportunity to try a 120 mm on familiar trails without the commitment to keep it then I'd say go for it. But if it's a matter of a $600 investment that cannot be reversed I'd make sure that expectations are fairly low.
    Not necessarily, what about bikes like the Kona Honzo, Canfield Yelli, Canfield N9, On-One Parkwood, and the like? Again, you are correct though in that it is better to pick the correct tool/weapon for the job. Upgrading to the 120mm travel fork may allow what he wants with minimal investment (assuming you came up with $600 for a high-end new fork) by looking for something used.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    NO, absolutely wrong, for about every inch/25mm you get a 1 degree change in HTA, don't know WTF you got that 10mm=1 degree from The rest about the actual forks Axle to Crown=A2C, is absolutely right, with Fox normally having the longest A2Cs, so alot of their 100mm forks are actually only maybe 10mm shorter in A2C than say a 120mm travel RS, ,so check that out when looking at your new fork.
    LOL... I never claimed that I was sane!! Thanks for the clarification though, I thought I remembered reading it somewhere that 10mm=~1* of HTA change, must have gotten it mixed up with something else.
    Inbred 29r (Purple People Eater)
    HH Thumper (Blackheart)
    Bikes for Boobs F*ck Cancer! One too many, 6/24/13. Miss ya ma'.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    19
    I currently have a Rockshox Recon Gold at 100mm. Not sure if I can adjust the length.
    Phosphate Rider

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    19
    Thank you for all of your input!

    I am currently running a Rockshox Recon Gold.... Not sure if I can add spacers to this fork. I will look into it.

    As for the terrain, I am riding in Western NC with a lot of long climbs and some fast, somewhat technical down hills.
    Phosphate Rider

  13. #13
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,010
    Don't believe that the Recon is internally adjustable like say the Revelation or SID models.
    Inbred 29r (Purple People Eater)
    HH Thumper (Blackheart)
    Bikes for Boobs F*ck Cancer! One too many, 6/24/13. Miss ya ma'.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    130
    I know you mention you don't want to purchase another bike now but you ride areas that would be best with a "trail" bike (or whatever you want to call it) especially with a HT. And I get the sense that you are trying to accomplish this goal by putting a 120 on an EMD. You want a slacker bike with a bit more travel - Honzo? ROS? etc.

    As a fellow EMD owner, don't do it. This is not a trail bike and I think trying to turn it into one is a likely mistake - although I have not run a 120 on it. I do ride mine aggressively but have given up jumping it because it is sketchy. I, too, need a better all around bike so the EMD is on it's way out the door...

    Good luck with whatever you decide.

Similar Threads

  1. Going from 100mm to 120mm fork
    By cabralkev in forum Giant
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-20-2014, 01:14 PM
  2. Jet 9 RDO - 100mm or 120mm fork?
    By drz400sm in forum Niner Bikes
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 01-14-2013, 07:33 PM
  3. 100mm vs 120mm Fork
    By mtber13 in forum Specialized
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-22-2011, 11:11 AM
  4. 100mm vs 120mm Fork
    By mtber13 in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10-18-2011, 09:01 AM
  5. 100mm fork to 120mm
    By skierdood in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-18-2011, 10:09 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •