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  1. #601
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    Thumper 27.5 Rear

    Hey guys...I found the images of a 27.5 x 2.8 wheel/tire fit into the rear triangle of a Thumper frame...well actually it's a Satori frame, but the rear triangles are very similar, except for the Horst-Link...most importantly the clearances at the chainstay yoke are similar.

    I believe it was @fastbanana that provided the images? I think the tire is a 27.5 x 2.8 WTB Trailblazer....don't remember what the wheel is??
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_3312.jpg
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_3313.jpg
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_3314.jpg
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_3315.jpg
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_3316.jpg

    Also, someone sent me a spreadsheet they made of 27.5+ tire/rim widths/dimensions...for the life of me I can't remember what MTBR user it was, so hopefully they see this and can take credit for it

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    I also included the CAD drawing of the Thumper/Unveil9 rear triangle so you can compare measurements w/ the spreadsheet

    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-unveil9-rear-triangle.jpg

    Lastly, I stumbled across a review a Thumper owner over in The UK did on his 27.5 rear set up on his Thumper....some really good info in there
    Behold the Frankenthumper (aka Project 279) | UNDURO

    Oh...one more thing....I currently have my Hammerhead Carbon prototype frame set up 29x2.4 front (Goma) 27.5x3.0 rear (Bridger) on Light Bicycle 38mm wide rims

    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_2225.jpg
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_2224.jpg
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_2223.jpg
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-img_2226.jpg

    I am really loving the "Mixer" set up....want to throw this build kit on my Unveil9 frame....shrink the rear tire to 2.8...and bump the fork back up to 140mm (it's at 130mm now)....the Unveil9 has shorter chainstays and 2 degree slacker HTA....so I can get a little more rowdy this summer when I take trips to CO

  2. #602
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    Scott I believe the images of the tire in the rear triangle are actually a Satori. I found those pictures in this thread: WTB Trailblazer 2.8

    I've got a new fork coming that should allow me to play with running 29er wheels on my Unveil7. More on that later...

    I think we're safe with a 2.6-2.8 on sub-35mm rims in the back of the Unveil9.
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  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Scott I believe the images of the tire in the rear triangle are actually a Satori. I found those pictures in this thread: WTB Trailblazer 2.8

    I've got a new fork coming that should allow me to play with running 29er wheels on my Unveil7. More on that later...

    I think we're safe with a 2.6-2.8 on sub-35mm rims in the back of the Unveil9.
    Yep, I mentioned the Satori: "well actually it's a Satori frame, but the rear triangles are very similar, except for the Horst-Link...most importantly the clearances at the chainstay yoke are similar."

    It was a customer that had owned a Thumper frame and still owned a Satori...we were talking about whether a 2.8 would fit in the Thumper frame....he also had the 27.5 x 2.8 rear wheel so I talked him into running out to his storage unit in the cold CO winter to throw the rear wheel in the Satori frame he had laying around so we could get an idea of whether it would work in a Thumper/Unveil9 frame....

    It was some serious dedication to the cause on his part

  4. #604
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    After I get my new fork I will have to give this a try. My buddy still has his Syncros 27.5 alloy wheels that originally came with his Genius. Figure I can throw some bigger rubber on those and try them out since he is riding carbon now.


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  5. #605
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    I've got -2 degree cups coming in from Superstar Components!

    Hera are the guestimated effects:
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-2asteen-ohj_laakeri.jpg

    It should make it slacker, longer and lower.

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    After I get my new fork I will have to give this a try. My buddy still has his Syncros 27.5 alloy wheels that originally came with his Genius. Figure I can throw some bigger rubber on those and try them out since he is riding carbon now.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I think you will really like the + set up....especially with the chunk you get into and and I think even more the scat or pea gravel layer...if I remember correctly...your trails have. I ride a lot in AR and the majority of the trails have a pea gravel layer, the plus tires dig into that stuff incredibly!

  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by KnuutV View Post
    I've got -2 degree cups coming in from Superstar Components!

    Hera are the guestimated effects:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	-2asteen ohj_laakeri.jpg 
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    It should make it slacker, longer and lower.
    Oh that is an awesome chart! I am going to play around with that...I assume it is on Superstar Components site?

  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by Switchback Bikes View Post
    Oh that is an awesome chart! I am going to play around with that...I assume it is on Superstar Components site?
    No, its on another site. Very handy for playing with fork lengths etc.

    geometryCalc

    /Johan

  9. #609
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    Excellent...thanks Modig!

  10. #610
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    That's a nifty little chart! That may get me into trouble though...LOL

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by KnuutV View Post
    I've got -2 degree cups coming in from Superstar Components!

    Hera are the guestimated effects:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	-2asteen ohj_laakeri.jpg 
Views:	79 
Size:	132.2 KB 
ID:	1069108

    It should make it slacker, longer and lower.


    Have You got tapered tube in fork? Which cups did You choose on Superstar Components site? EC44/ZS56?

  12. #612
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    Quote Originally Posted by grabek View Post
    Have You got tapered tube in fork? Which cups did You choose on Superstar Components site? EC44/ZS56?
    Yes, I have a fork with a tapered steerer tube.

    For my frame size M with a 110 mm head tube I chose the "T7-3 EC44/ZS56 110-120mm Taper Steerer".

    They are not in stock yet, but still at the anodizer, or at least that's what they told me, haha. Anyways they should have stock within the nex few weeks.

  13. #613
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    Finally found some updated reviews (random ones from smaller sites) on the 2014+ Minute Pro and while most liked it as a good XC/Trail offering they did confirm that is still has the same problem as the old Tower did, which is lateral flex during hard cornering or truly chunky trails (which I ride a lot of now). While the 15mm thru-axle has helped to stiffen the chassis up some it is not near as stick as some of the other 32mm offerings that are more Trail oriented.

    Reason I am saying this is I always loved the tune-ability of the shim stack of my Tower Pro along with the negative spring. But at my size the 32mm Manitou offerings just won't be able to handle hard riding. Was hoping that it would simply because that would allow me to not have to worry about going Boost for the front end and also allow me to try out my buddies 27.5 front wheel as well as rear. Looks like it is going to be the Magnum or another brand (SR Auron) when time comes.

    On another note, was just looking at the Mattoc thread in the Suspension Forum and it was found that Manitou is making a stealth dropper!!! Bad news is that it is going to be OEM only (at this point at least).

  14. #614
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    27.5+ and 148mm Travel Rear

    So the customer from the UK that bought a Thumper and did the blog write up on 27.5+ in the rear....also discovered he could bump the rear travel up to 148mm...here's his Blog post about it

    Frankenthumper Evo | UNDURO

    27.5+, 148mm travel, Superstar -2 Degree Headset....hhhmmmm

  15. #615
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    Yeah that is interesting that he was able to fit a slightly longer can after swapping to the 27.5+ in the rear. Funny thing is that BikeRadar just had a video segment where one of their guys took the Stumpy 6Fattie out for a test. He did the 27.5+ and 29er back to back on the same trails and found that in chunky stuff the plus tires/wheels were a few seconds faster. Really the only time that the 29er tires shined was when he was on more buff singletrack which allowed him to pull more speed. But other than that the 27.5+ really shined in keeping speed through the chunky and digging in on corners.

    So here is a question, I tried to measure my bottom bracket drop the other night just out of curiosity. I measured from the floor to the underside of the bottom bracket and came up with ~12.75", does that sound right? I thought for some reason this bike was supposed to be a 13" high bottom bracket?

  16. #616
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So here is a question, I tried to measure my bottom bracket drop the other night just out of curiosity. I measured from the floor to the underside of the bottom bracket and came up with ~12.75", does that sound right? I thought for some reason this bike was supposed to be a 13" high bottom bracket?
    I'm pretty certain that BB-height is measured to the crank centre/axle. (And subsequent BB-drop calculated by substracting that number from hub centre/axle height.)

    Cheers
    /Johan

  17. #617
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    Ok thanks Johan... wasn't sure if I was measuring properly and don't have the geometry chart handy to see if it is listed.

  18. #618
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    BB Drop - draw a line between front and rear axle, and the BB's drop from that line. Difficult to measure accurately in real world.

    BB Height - ground to center of BB.

    I'll just say this, I don't think he's got 148mm of rear travel with the longer shock. No where near that.

    What is a benefit though is a higher BB with the same amount of sag. If you run 275x2.8 in the rear and a 275x3.0 up front, you'll definitely want to raise the BB a bit.

    I may experiment with this when I swap wheels between my wifes Thumper and my Unveil7.
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  19. #619
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    @PHeller... DO IT!!!

    Yeah with me planning to go with the Manitou Magnum 27.5 that will allow me up to a 3.4" 27.5 tire. This will allow me to do lots of playing around but require a second wheelset all together.

    Haven't even gotten the new fork yet and already planning on all kindsa experiments. LOL

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Switchback Bikes View Post
    Hey guys...I found the images of a 27.5 x 2.8 wheel/tire fit into the rear triangle of a Thumper frame...well actually it's a Satori frame, but the rear triangles are very similar, except for the Horst-Link...most importantly the clearances at the chainstay yoke are similar.

    I believe it was @fastbanana that provided the images? I think the tire is a 27.5 x 2.8 WTB Trailblazer....don't remember what the wheel is??
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also, someone sent me a spreadsheet they made of 27.5+ tire/rim widths/dimensions...for the life of me I can't remember what MTBR user it was, so hopefully they see this and can take credit for it

    Name:  650b+.JPG
Views: 394
Size:  62.1 KB

    I also included the CAD drawing of the Thumper/Unveil9 rear triangle so you can compare measurements w/ the spreadsheet

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Lastly, I stumbled across a review a Thumper owner over in The UK did on his 27.5 rear set up on his Thumper....some really good info in there
    Behold the Frankenthumper (aka Project 279) | UNDURO

    Oh...one more thing....I currently have my Hammerhead Carbon prototype frame set up 29x2.4 front (Goma) 27.5x3.0 rear (Bridger) on Light Bicycle 38mm wide rims

    I am really loving the "Mixer" set up....want to throw this build kit on my Unveil9 frame....shrink the rear tire to 2.8...and bump the fork back up to 140mm (it's at 130mm now)....the Unveil9 has shorter chainstays and 2 degree slacker HTA....so I can get a little more rowdy this summer when I take trips to CO
    Way more room than I thought. My 2.4 chunky monkey on WTB i29 rims buzzers the chainstays during chunky technical climbs.

    Speaking of chainstays I recently bought a used Unveil for my son and I need to put new chainstays on it. I have the chainstays but cannot remove the main pivot bolt. The small drive side bolt comes out but I cannot get the non-drive side out. Any tricks?
    Also, where do you get the thin (plastic?) washers the go in the Horst link? I ask because the used Unveil I bought is in need of a couple.

  21. #621
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    Noosa did you try contacting Scott directly? Or maybe throwing in the HH/Unveil thread in the MFG forum? Might take a little persuasion with a brass drift.

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Noosa did you try contacting Scott directly? Or maybe throwing in the HH/Unveil thread in the MFG forum? Might take a little persuasion with a brass drift.
    I'll shoot Scott an email. Thanks.

  23. #623
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    So have been trading emails with a tech at RS to see if I could further narrow down the problem. Part of the reason was that I found the Dual Air replacement system on ebay for all of $65 and was thinking about throwing some money at that in hopes that it would POSSIBLY fix my issue. However after the emails the tech is 85% certain that the wear I have found on my stanchion tubes is creating a leak between the positive and negative sides of the system. This is why I seem to slowly be leaking air from the negative. They had me try a couple of different thing is effort to, basically, reset the negative air piston. However, the system will hold air for a few hours without leaking until either I; a) ride or create compression on the legs where it will suddenly lose EVERYTHING in the negative chamber while retaining the positive pressure, or b) only hold the pressure for close to 3hrs (without use) before it starts to drop.

    I have gone through and replaced valve cores, orings, seals, etc. in hopes that it would fix it or make it at least rideable but nothing has worked. I tried this weekend to ride and found that while it will work ok for smooth singletrack once you compress you lose all the compression damping from the negative chamber and thus the fork becomes SUPER rigid. Basically it feels like I am riding a jarring pogo stick when I start to descend. On the descent I emptied both chambers, filled the positive up to 100psi and the negative to 115psi and began to ride. The first few initial bumps and compressions were fine but at that it just felt like I was riding a rigid fork and it had not compression damping unless I hit something HARD and then it would compress. Eventually I stopped and found the positive chamber was still at 100psi but the negative was down to about 85psi at that point (maybe 5 minutes of descent).

    So yeah this thing is toast, new CSU (Crown Steerer Upper Leg Assembly) will end up costing me about $300 and the new lower leg casting is about $140. The tech said that I would need to send it in to have them check everything to actually figure out what the true root cause is but ultimately I would be looking at $100+ even if it ended up being something as simple as the air shaft. After lots and lots of thought I think I am going to go with the SR Suntour Auron RC2 as that will save me the cost of having to use/build a completely new wheel right off AND end up being $100+ cheaper than the Manitou. As much as I want to give my money to Manitou there is just some flag going off in my head about using the 27.5 Magnum Pro 140mm with the 29er rim/wheel.

    Will be buying the new paddleboard for the wife at the end of the month so couple weeks after that I should have my new fork. In the meantime looks like I am running (bleh) to keep myself in some form of athletic shape. Tried my old hardtail on the trails and just couldn't do it, killed my back and the setup is just too changed now to deal with trail riding outside of gravel grinding.

  24. #624
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    Good job!

    I think the head angle is between 65-66 degrees now

    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-wp_20160527_18_46_21_pro.jpg

    I didn't get ruined with all the slackness.
    A proper ride tomorrow should give the answers

    An update after some trail time:
    Next build... HammerHead Thumper-wp_20160528_13_14_33_pro.jpg
    I think it feels a little more planted and faster on the rough stuff. I didn't feel like a different bike altogether. Also it seems to roll over stuff easier.

    Cornering might need a little adjustment in body position. Weight needs to on the front wheel to gain traction, but I need to work on my cornering anyways.

    Climbing feels actually also better. I have a little more traction on the rear wheel now , since the reach increased but the chainstays stayed the same, which means there is a little more weight on the rear wheel.

    I LIKE IT!!!
    Last edited by KnuutV; 05-28-2016 at 07:26 AM. Reason: Update after some trail time

  25. #625
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    Very nice KNuutv!! Once you get a few more rides you will have to give us some more info.

    Well put in the order yesterday for a MY16 SR Suntour Auron RC2. This will be the fanciest fork I have owned with LSC and HSC adjustments. With the Suntour trade-in program I was able to get it for $450 shipped, so really can't complain about that. Should be here tomorrow and then have to wait until Tuesday next week for the new wheel. Unfortunately, my wheelbuilder has not been doing a lot of work lately so his mfg company in Taiwan has upped his MOQs. He said that they do make the conversion end cap kit for my front hub but they want $50 for shipping alone, so at that price I took the plunge and grabbed one of the REI WTB Asym i29 front wheels for $99. Couldn't really pass up that deal seeing as I was planning on moving to the i29s eventually on my own build and hell, the Asym i29 goes for $80+ for just the rim so figured I can do a little truing if necessary.

  26. #626
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    Well got the Auron (pronounced Ore On) today... Seems really well built, not overly light but has good weight to it.
    - 4 clicks of HSC (silver dial)
    - 17 clicks of LSC (blue dial)
    - Rebound does not seem to have defined clicks, just smooth and tight adjustment
    - Comes with their Titanium Thru-Axle (called QLoc) which is a bit funky but sure I will get used to it. Basically you open the lever and push the other side in and turn clockwise until the red expanders come down. Once installed, with the lever still open you push the button down and turn counter -clockwise to release the red expanders.

    Couple crappy phone pics for now!!!!

    Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

    Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

  27. #627
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    Black stanchions look good one those. Make it look considerably more upscale.

    I wasn't impressed with the Suntour forks I rode, but that was 3 years ago.

    Hopefully their service and warranty stuff is better than Rockshox a few years from now.
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  28. #628
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    Yeah I am not overly crazy about the all black, murdered out look. I like good old gold coated stanchions or just plain nickel. My fear is that with a lot of small hits the stanchions heat up with them being black, but that includes the fact that I live in the high desert and today it hit 86 and will hit 90+ this weekend. It will start to drop off again after that but it gets DAMN hot here.

    Anyways, I am stoked to be able to ride it next week let alone ride PERIOD!! Just weighed the fork and it came in at 4lbs 6oz based on my analog kitchen scale that I have weighed just about EVERYTHING with. And that is with the uncut steerer tube. Tomorrow will be taking all four forks to the LBS to have them pull the crown races off the old and swap to the new (swapping from my old Manitou Tower Pro to my new rigid steel Redline Monocog).

    There are a few reviews out there of the fork and everyone seems very complimentary of the fork. Main gripes are:
    1. on the MY15 version you had to cut an elastomer section under the air cap to change the chamber volume. This was remedied in the MY16 version with tokens, I specifically took the MY16 version because of this hence the black, they are not offering WHITE yet (will be white with black stanchions).
    2. Some of the earlier reviews complained about rebound damping noise. They would hear a whoosh or squishing noise. Seems that the newer models may not have this, we will see though. If I can put up with the crown constantly creaking on my old Revy I think I can deal with a bit of noise on the rebound.

    Couple other observations, the decals for the name are all in a slight clear coat over the fork. There are a few other stickers that are not, they are just stuck on; like the rebound adjustment, warning sticker and the 29" sticker.
    The rebound knob is pretty tough to turn, at the ends of the rebound turns (+\-) you get a few clicks and as you get closer to the end they get more distinct. Hopefully this will improve with use. From my counting, I was able to do a full 24 clicks of rebound so it is currently set in the middle at 12 from full slow (+).
    I believe that it is extended to 140mm currently, but the stanchions feel like they have ZERO lube on them so I will disassemble it some tomorrow or this weekend and see what the travel is set at. Travel is adjusted between 130-150mm based on tokens installed on the air spring side.

    Oh and one other thing... They changed the naming a bit on this model. Apparently the MY15 was called the RC2 for the top end model, where as with the MY16 is the LO RC. Just read about the new(er) R2C2 damper they are using in the RUX and DUROLUX and wondering if that will be an upgrade at some point as part of their QSP package.

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    ...so at that price I took the plunge and grabbed one of the REI WTB Asym i29 front wheels for $99. Couldn't really pass up that deal seeing as I was planning on moving to the i29s eventually on my own build and hell, the Asym i29 goes for $80+ for just the rim so figured I can do a little truing if necessary.
    Bought both front and rear for the same reasons. My original Flow's were getting old and were kinda narrow. Really like the wheels so far, wider rims really do make a difference.

  30. #630
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    Greg, you are going to disassemble the forks to lube the stanchions. which is somewhat involved, but you take the fork to the lbs to remove crown races, which is a flat head screwdriver or razor blade pry job???

    Also, your concern with the black stanchions heating up seems like you may be smarter than the fork designers. Suppose it's possible that heating of the fork oil, which would reduce viscosity may balance the possible friction increase from higher coefficient of static friction and swelling of the stanchion within the seal due to thermal expansion. My gut feel is that 20 or 30 degree delta T is probably insignificant, but who knows - internally insulated stanchions may be the next big thing!

    I like 130 on the Revy with 46mm offset, which puts HTA at 68 according to the recently posted manuf. dwgs posted on a Thumper forum. Keeps the front nice and low on the xl frame which has a very long head tube. I'm using 50mm stem flipped for maybe 10mm negative rise and 780mm flat bar with short stack came creek upper headset.

  31. #631
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    LOL... I know it does sounds backwards but it is not the "taking off" of the race, it is the installation which I really don't have the proper tool nor anything that would suffice as a proper installer. I tried doing that with the headset cups and got the upper installed fine but the lower gave me issues.

    And I know that the black stanchions is an irrational fear, don't get me wrong I know that with the particular coatings they use and everything it makes minimal difference between the black coating and a Kashima coat or just regular coat. Like I said it is an irrational fear, kinda like the hook/paddle style door handles in high traffic areas of my office and the irrational fear that I am going to one day go to open the door while someone on the other side does the same and snaps a few of my fingers. Dumb yes, but a fear none-the-less.

    As for ride height I was actually really happy with my Revy at 140mm and measuring the stanchions real quick it did seem as though it was already at 140mm, taking it apart would be more to just confirm everything, do a little oil change and see what I got my hands on.

  32. #632
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    Funny thing I just remembered, I think I may want to just start buying new forks as my "used" fork track record aint all that great.
    So been riding for little over 5yrs now and built two bikes in that time.
    - 1st was my On-One Inbred 29er, Purple People Eater, which I built initially with an RST M29 fork. This fork crapped out on me after about 5 months of riding. Then I bought my brand new Manitou Tower Pro 100mm which is still going strong even after all those years of hard riding, some neglect and a negative spring change with some shim stack tuning.
    - 2nd was this one, Blackheart, which started life with the 2011 RS Revelation DA. The fork was much more well taken care of than the Manitou but ended up crapping out on me in less than 2yrs of use. But to its own service, I was able to track almost all the mileage I put on the bike since it was built with Strava and had over 900 miles in that time frame. Not to mention however much was put on it by the previous own. Now it is being replaced with a brand NEW SR Suntour Auron LO RC.

    Maybe next time I build a bike I really should just stick with a BRAND NEW (IN BOX) fork!!! LOL

  33. #633
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    Crown race install kit - dab of grease, 1' pvc pipe (1.5" sch 10???, measure to confirm), something to whack pvc on or a plastic dead blow or rubber mallet.

    Headset install kit- dabs of grease, 3/8" X 6" hex bolt, 3/8" fender washers, 3/8" hex nut, 2 wrenches. This is all you need, but I also use an old headset cup to align the force better and dead blow hammer to make corrections and finish the install.

    Since these "kits" are used very infrequently, the extra five minutes vs a pro install kit (read "ass reaming scam") are worth the $4 investment, especially the apparent feeling of "I just pulled one off on the man" after completion of install is one of the few, true pleasures in the life of the every man (cue Foo Fighters "There Goes My Hero...").

    Of course, there's also the highly probable possibility of f'ing the pooch with these semi pro kits, which adds to the high intensity excitement (read "Spine tingling suspense of failure for a person who spends majority of "non-labor for the man time" collecting and disposing of other organism's fecal matter and associated biological waste products with semi frequent loss of control of said fecal matter with excursion into a state of contamination, i.e. Toddler poop under dad's fingernail). To summarize, any opportunity to curse said person's own existence whether verbally or non verbally expressed in one to four syllable out bursts (see Olympic figure skater Nancy Kerrigan after clubbing by competitors husband, Whhhhyyyyyyyy!!!!!; or the more subtle "F*ck me" as expressed in a nuance of frustration rather than the very common hardcore porn phrase nuance; to the all time standard, gangsta rap tinged "MotherF*cker!!!") is a favorite pastime.

  34. #634
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    I did all this stuff with a grease, piece of wood and a hummer. Just go very slowly and you'll be fine.

  35. #635
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    I did all this stuff with a grease, piece of wood and a hummer. Just go very slowly and you'll be fine.
    LMAO!! Take the first sentence out of context!!!

    Yeah well having my lbs do this kinda stuff for me is a good way to keep a good relationship with them. I have them do small services and then buy some stuff from them. I did try the headset on my own and started to bugger the lower cup so I just called it good and took it to them.

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    LMAO!! Take the first sentence out of context!!!


    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Yeah well having my lbs do this kinda stuff for me is a good way to keep a good relationship with them.
    First thing I did is called couple LBS near me. Both said they had a week or two lead time for installing a head set. I guess they did not want to earn easy $20 or more for a five minute job and I did not want to wait.

  37. #637
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    Wow yeah that does suck. I have a good relationship with mine so if I walk in with something easy they just stop and take care of it.


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  38. #638
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    I did all this stuff with a grease, piece of wood and a hummer. Just go very slowly and you'll be fine.
    I used a more "refined" set of tools:
    -2 pieces of wood
    -a clamp
    -(and a soft blow hammer just to be sure)

    In other Thumper related news I laced some Spank Oozy 345's on my old wheels, since the old rims didn't hold up racing enduro. Stiffer and wider now!

  39. #639
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    Eh whatever... I got plenty of other things to monkey with at home. That is the "main" premise behind my Land Cruiser, something to continually wrench on!

    KnuutV you will have to let us know how you like the Oozy 345s! Was looking at those, the Asym i29 and Arc30 but really dont plan on running anything larger than a 2.4 on the 29er tires. Maybe if I end up building myself a set of 27.5+ wheels I will go with something like that.

  40. #640
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    Well UPS officially sucks. Ordered the wheel on the 31st and got "Pickup scan" update on the first. However that was the last update to which I have now talked with UPS customer service a total of 4 times. The package was estimated to be delivered today but when I saw no updates past the "pickup scan" I started calling Friday morning to see what was up. Same response everything until 8:30pm tonight was "rest assured that the package will be delivered by End of Business on the 7th".

    Last guy I talked to was nice and told me that apparently it was lost in transit as there were no other scans since that pickup scan and no other info. So looks like tomorrow I will be calling REI customer service to have them do a lost package replacement. So who knows at this point when the wheel will be here.


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  41. #641
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    Well #$^# me... the wheel showed up today! However, I was dumb enough to no check the comments on REI and see that the hub is actually a Centerlock hub. Now to find a centerlock rotor or damn adaptor for my current rotor.

    Then to add insult to injury I find that the wheels have the 9mm QR mounted, fine.... I start rummaging through the box and NOTHING. The wheel is supposed to come with 15mm end caps and there is nothing in the box or attached to the whee. There is a tag attached to the wheel showing that it is machine built, inspected by, "uses genuine DT Swiss spokes" etc. and then a small hand written note on the tag "End caps in shop".

    Called REI customer service and they proceed to tell me that they pull these from shops that have them in stock so she was going to call the store they had ship them (in TX) and see if they could locate the end caps. About 10 minutes later I get a call back from her and she says that they are unable to locate the caps and is going to put an order in for a new wheel and have it shipped out 2day for me and then send a return label.

    So while the wheel is nice and pretty, it does me no good at this point and I am stuck waiting until Friday for the new wheel. PLUS now I have to order a centerlock rotor (hate adaptors). *SIGH* I so was hoping to ride tomorrow too....

  42. #642
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    That's strange, I got both of mine with end caps included. And I did the same mistake with rotors. I have nice ice tech rotors already, so decided to try adapters. They work and look ok, I'll buy center lock rotors when I need to change current ones.

  43. #643
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    Yeah I have a feeling that they either forgot to package them in the box or, honestly, the box was pretty shabby so they may have fallen out. Hell I did not have any tracking update until today since the 1st.

    On the rotor thing, I am debating on getting a new rotor up front vs. getting an adaptor. The info I can't seem t find is that some of the rotors need a special 15/20mm lock clip from shimano (for shimano rotors). Then there is the adpators.
    This Amazon.com : Shimano SM-HB20 15/20mm Axle Hub Centerlock Rotor Lockring : Sports & Outdoors

    So it is hard to tell which rotors will fit and which won't without a special lock clip.

  44. #644
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    Aarrgh about the delays!!!

    Well the Oozies have "only" 30.5 mm internal width, so they are not too wide for normal tires.

    There really is not much to tell: they are stiff, tubeless set up is easy with layer of Gorilla tape(at least Maxxis tires inflate with a floor pump), and I don't notice them while riding...

  45. #645
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    ...The info I can't seem t find is that some of the rotors need a special 15/20mm lock clip from shimano (for shimano rotors). Then there is the adpators.
    This Amazon.com : Shimano SM-HB20 15/20mm Axle Hub Centerlock Rotor Lockring : Sports & Outdoors

    So it is hard to tell which rotors will fit and which won't without a special lock clip.
    As I understand lock ring depends on your axle not a rotor, 15/20mm Axle Hub Centerlock Rotor Lockring should work on any rotor.

  46. #646
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    Right.... I was calling the lockring the lock clip which does look like it is needed for most all rotors to lock to a 15/20mm thru axle front. Standard rotor lockring will work for the rear 12x142/148 though it seems.

    I went ahead and ordered that Shimano set so we will see once it gets here tomorrow (was only $2 extra for one-day shipping on Amazon, was not a prime item). If it doesn't work then I will buy the stupid special 15/20mm lockring. So dumb that they require a special one for this.

  47. #647
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    Well sweetness!!! Everything arrived today and wheel and tire are currently getting familiar with a little stans in it.

    So I measured the ID of the rim and came out with 29.08mm. Measured that rim with tire installed and inflated to 40psi and came up with 60mm for the casing and 61.2mm for the knobs!!!

    The Centerlock Adapter that I got was the SM-RTAD05 and that worked perfectly. Still got to do all the setup of the fork and everything but hoping to get a chance to do that soon. Next week is packed with other stuff going on.

    Pics coming soon.

  48. #648
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    Few pics as promised...
    Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

    Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

    Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

    Have to say that the On-One Chunky Monkey Trail Extreme 2.4 looks freaking HUGE on this rim... See if i can't convince the wife to let me head out for a "tuning" ride this weekend.

  49. #649
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    So went out this morning for a tuning ride. Set the PSI in the fork to about 85psi.
    The new MY16 Auron comes with volume reducer tokens unlike most of the versions that have been reviewed which only had an elastomer section that had to be cut (permanently) to reduce the air chamber. This was part of the reason I ended up with the all black fork, they didnt have any white ones built yet!

    Anyways, first impressions are that I am probably going to have to remove one of the tokens, it comes with 3 installed which according to the manual is for AGGRESSIVE heavy riders. I did the rebound setting using the curb drop method and found that 2 clicks faster from midway seemed about right. Set my air pressure to about 25% sag and then played with the Low and High Speed Compressions.

    I have never had a fork that had Low and High Speed Compression just the High Speed Compression (think it was 12 clicks for the old Manitou and 6 for the Revy). So I figured that the High Speed is the one that is more of the Lockout tune which I put at the 3rd setting which is 1 click from open. Then I played with LSC some... started with it right in the middle since it has, what feels like, 17 clicks all together. Riding the fork felt plenty stiff on the climbs and maybe a little harsh, but the feeling was pretty similar to the Revy for rolling over small roots, rocks, etc. Rebound still felt fine on even some larger babyheads and other rocks as I climbed up the trail.

    Then we got to the fun part, POINTING DOWN!!! This is where I figured I would have to really pay attention as this is where I want the fork to perform. So starting with some mid-speed swoopy flowy trail it did just fine, tracked real well and did not feel like it was diving when braking or turning.

    Actually I was really surprised how stiff the steering input felt, it literally went where I pointed it and if that was into a rock it hit the rock without feeling any flex. This was my first impression of the stiffer 34mm chassis.

    Had a couple of mid-high speed g-out turns and the fork felt great. Again felt very stiff and did not seem to notice any brake dive as I came through the corner.

    From this point I had a short climb to the top of the next trail, Creek Trail, that is where the fork would really get its workout with a couple of rock garden ladders, some serious high speed, rough trail with lots and lots of baseball and large sided rocks, etc. There are even a few small jumps that I can push it over to see how it performs.

    So I pointed down and tried to let loose but there were quite a few hikers on the trail to the speed was intermittent. What I did find was that the fork is SUPER stiff..... however everything that I would consider part of the small bump compliance was somewhat jarring and harsh. However, the rest of the ride it just soaked up what I could throw at it. Going through the rock garden ladders was the only part that I was somewhat unimpressed with the damping but not the tracking. This thing was literally taking me to where I was pointing the bike, whether I was aware of it or not. And this is where that stiff new chassis came into play as there were a few places where I could remember bouncing off the rocks with the Revy and this just plowed through/over them.

    Then I got to the two sections where I could actually hit a decent jump at speed (minus other areas due to hikers) and WOW did this thing just feel PLUSH on those hits. Just soaked it up but stayed nice and high in the travel, not jarring or bucking at all... just a real smooth transition between the take-off, which felt nice and playful more so than the Revy, and the smooth landing. This I was quite impressed with as it felt super smooth and with the Revy I have hit one of these jumps and no matter how clean the landing I always seemed to get a bit squirrelly, but with this the landing was just STUCK!

    Rest of the ride though a fast and flowy section was actually pushing me more and more to keep going faster... actually to the point where I was spinning out instead of pushing like in the past (which I have been thinking of upping to a 34t front). Between the new wider rim and the stiffness of the fork I was about to push through corners at much higher speeds and still feel very in control of the bike.

    So this brings me to my question about tuning. I have not had a fork with this much "tune-ability" in it and I am still learning about what the different items do in comparison to how the bike will ride. With that said, I am wondering what I should mess with first.. should I mess with the low speed compression and PSI or should I get in and pull one of the volume reducers?

  50. #650
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    From my limited knowledge of suspension, you should focus on pressure first, then low speed, then high speed. Another thing that is a bit counter intuitive and a lot of people don't understand is a lot of small bump compliance depend on low speed compression.
    And you need to let you fork break in. It should get better with small bumps with time.

  51. #651
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    Ok that is what I was kinda thinking... May go for another ride tonight and if I do I will drop the PSI some. For the pressure, should I be treating it like my other forks even though it has tokens? So still trying to aim for 30% SAG?

  52. #652
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    IMHO 30% SAG sounds a little too much, but then again you didn't mention bottoming out.
    I would try 20 %, and if you're not close to the end of travel, then take some tokens out.
    (With the tokens you can adjust the ramp up at the end stroke.)

  53. #653
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    One thing I didn't mention was that I found I was only using about 3/4 the travel. To me that means that I have too much air in the fork so I should be running lower pressures. With all the new adjustments this is still correct?

  54. #654
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    Yes kinda

    If you take some tokens out, then with the same pressure you should be using more travel and your sag should be about the same.

  55. #655
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    Yeah I guess I really just am not sure if I should leave the tokens in or mess with the other settings. But guess that is something that only time and tuning will tell. For now I will just mess with PSI and LSC to see if I can get to where I want. If it still feels to stiff and I am not getting full travel then I will remove a token.

  56. #656
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    Its funny, just randomly started at Page 1 of my build thread and ready through some of the stuff, thought process and what not.

    One thing I have figured out, I change my mind ALOT! Pretty much will not pick anything specifically until it is in my cart!

    Also, yesterday when I was out for my ride doing the bit of tuning to the fork I ended running across our local trailbuilder/mailman/muscle powered pres and ss animal Potter with a buddy of his. Had someone contacting me that will be doing the Epic Ride Carson Offroad this coming weekend in ss and so I spoke with Potter and his buddy about what gearing they recommended for the 35miler (which starts in town at about 4500' and goes up and hits 8k' at the top). So they gave me some recommendations, then Potters buddy says to me "So how long have you owned your Hammerhead?"

    Truly I was dumbfounded... I have been all over the place, run across tons of riders but NO ONE has ever heard of Hammerhead before let alone asked me about the bike before I offered up the info. Turns out the guy used to live in Tulsa, OK when Hammerhead was still there, knew of Scott and had conversed with him regularly enough to know he was very active in the local bike community and was open when talking about his bikes. So we talked about the Thumperveil for a short bit but damn it was nice to FINALLY meet someone that WAS NOT an owner of one of our bikes but know how damn good these things are. Anyways, just thought I would share that.

  57. #657
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    Went for a second ride tonight. Didn't touch any settings other than the PSI. Primed the shock pump and found the pump was about 92psi. Dropped it down to 80psi and now getting just about full travel on the bigger hits. Suspension feels a bit more plush than before but smaller hits, think bigger rocks but small enough to easily rollover or turn into a quick jump, so thinking that is the LSC. Thinking next ride will drop the psi another 5psi and then as long as I don't bottom out on the big hits I will mess the LSC.


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  58. #658
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    I totally trashed my rear derailleur hanger and bolts. Does anyone know where I can find replacements??

  59. #659
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    For the thumper look in the Custom Builder forum and Scott had the information. The bolts are weird, something like and m6x.05x10mm. The rear D hanger can be purchase from an aftermarket supplier. Again everything is in the thread.

  60. #660
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    Oh and for those that haven't seen my other posts I busted my leg last weekend while riding in the Wherewolf Memorial Ride in Auburn, Ca. Broke the fib up high and blew out my ankle. Doc says gonna be at least 6-8wks before I do any weight bearing and probably 3 months before I can drive. So 2016 riding season is done for me. Currently have the leg is a splint cast that goes 10" above my knee. Surgery on the ankle set for next Thursday.

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    For the thumper look in the Custom Builder forum and Scott had the information. The bolts are weird, something like and m6x.05x10mm. The rear D hanger can be purchase from an aftermarket supplier. Again everything is in the thread.
    gregnash, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I've posted in that particular thread in the past and didn't realize Scott gave the small parts info there. I found the info in post #548 located in:

    Forum > Mountain Bike Manufacturer Forums > Custom Builders & Other Manufacturers > Post your Hammerhead / Switchback

    Also, sorry to hear about the broken leg. That sucks bad.

  62. #662
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    @ilike29er - glad you were able to find the information. I actually need to get myself a couple extra derailleur hangers. Bolts were a funky length and I was able to purchase a small set on ebay. When I broke mine, the bolts sheared completely off between the derailleur hanger and the frame (luckily not affecting the frame).

    Yup, bike season is done for me for sure. Doc is telling me no driving for 3 months so I am anticipating with everything that I will need a few months of PT as well (luckily my brother is a PT and can give me stuff to do at home). Was hoping that I might be back in action by the very end of the season and possibly be able to ride in early November but highly doubt that will happen. Definitely changing over to flats when I start riding again, but can't wait to get back out.

  63. #663
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Oh and for those that haven't seen my other posts I busted my leg last weekend while riding in the Wherewolf Memorial Ride in Auburn, Ca. Broke the fib up high and blew out my ankle. Doc says gonna be at least 6-8wks before I do any weight bearing and probably 3 months before I can drive. So 2016 riding season is done for me. Currently have the leg is a splint cast that goes 10" above my knee. Surgery on the ankle set for next Thursday.
    Yikes!!! Healing vibes....

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