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  1. #401
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Man....big FAIL on the seat collars! Sounds like 1/2 the production run didn't get collars
    I paid Taiwan for them, so guess they got some free $$
    Guess that's one way to stretch your margins

    Rear shocks and OE forks don't come with shocks pumps

    Aftermarket forks do come with shock punks

    I'll work on bearing spec info..I have a PDF with all the bearing spare part info Taiwan sent me but the font is pretty small so hard to see when published on the site
    Need to redo it

    If anyone that's missing seat collar and hanger....hit me up via e-mail & I'll get you squared away

  2. #402
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    So here is a question to everyone. What size rotors are you running? I have always run 160mm rotors but I am thinking of upgrading to 180mm.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So here is a question to everyone. What size rotors are you running? I have always run 160mm rotors but I am thinking of upgrading to 180mm.
    I have 203mm both ends. That's how my Stumpy came stock and I have enjoyed true 1 finger braking ever since especially after the change to XT rear SLX front calipers, so everything is being transferred to Thumper. Already have ice-tech rotor at the back and one is coming for the front next week ( price in CRC is just unbeatable). Never felt the lack of modulation and I don't know what overheating the brakes is

  4. #404
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    i went with 160 mm front and rear since im pretty light weight. we'll see if i need moar powa after a few rides.

  5. #405
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    See at 190lbs unkitted I am running 160s and feel they are adequate for my trails now but wondering since this bike is a hell of a lot faster than my Inbred and I will be doing gnarlyier stuff if I should invest in larger rotors for a bit more stopping power.

  6. #406
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    I've always run 160s on my hardtail, but the combination of having full suspension, quality suspension that lets me go deeper into corner and faster downhill has required that I upsize to a 180mm front.

    That being said, the Shimano brakes are just fantastic for the money. I'd have a hard time even considering the new Avid Guide over a clearance set of Shimano SLX/XT.
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  7. #407
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    I'm 180/160 but might go 203 all around

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    I've always run 160s on my hardtail, but the combination of having full suspension, quality suspension that lets me go deeper into corner and faster downhill has required that I upsize to a 180mm front.

    That being said, the Shimano brakes are just fantastic for the money. I'd have a hard time even considering the new Avid Guide over a clearance set of Shimano SLX/XT.
    This is what I am talking about, so figured I might as well grab the adapters and the 180s at least. I highly doubt I will need the 203s as the 160s do a pretty good job of stopping me. But like I said, with the added speed I am gaining with this bike (and confidence) and the fact that most FS bikes these days are coming with 180s I figured it might be a bit better of an upgrade.

    And honestly for some reason on the Thumper the 160s look TINY compared to on my Inbred. But that is just an aesthetic thing.

  9. #409
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    Re: Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    This is what I am talking about, so figured I might as well grab the adapters and the 180s at least. I highly doubt I will need the 203s as the 160s do a pretty good job of stopping me. But like I said, with the added speed I am gaining with this bike (and confidence) and the fact that most FS bikes these days are coming with 180s I figured it might be a bit better of an upgrade.

    And honestly for some reason on the Thumper the 160s look TINY compared to on my Inbred. But that is just an aesthetic thing.
    Lol I wish I could say the same, but at 215 lbs I like to err on the side of caution.

  10. #410
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    Dude you aren't that much heavier than me, which is part of the reason I am looking at this. Plus with the upcoming trip to Steamboat Springs, CO in which I will be taking the Thumper I figure it might be a better bet. I am liking the Ashima AiRotors so I will grab another set of those, $24/ea isn't that bad compared to Shimanos which are around $30-$40 each.


    Ok and dumb question here but since the rear of the Thumper is Post Mount for the caliper, do I just use a "front" PM to PM adapter? Only rear adapters I can find are PM to IS?

  11. #411
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    @gregnash
    180 F&R for sure...a great brake set up lets you go a lot faster #latebraking

    And yes, use the 180mm PM adaptors for F & R

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post

    Ok and dumb question here but since the rear of the Thumper is Post Mount for the caliper, do I just use a "front" PM to PM adapter? Only rear adapters I can find are PM to IS?
    Front and rear post to post adapters are the same.

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So here is a question to everyone. What size rotors are you running? I have always run 160mm rotors but I am thinking of upgrading to 180mm.
    180 front and 160 rear.

  14. #414
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    Ok well I just ordered the PM adapters and 2 180mm rotors (same thing, Ashima AiRotors) so they should be here sometime in the next week or so.

    Like I said before, haven't really felt a need for stronger brakes but at the same time I am at least picking up 1 new PR every ride, and most are on the downhill which means I am pushing faster and faster. I would rather have the extra braking power there if it is needed instead of an "OH S#$%" moment when I am in Colorado or riding the gnarlier stuff in Lake Tahoe..

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Mine didnt have it. However mine has cable routing built into it so.I needed my own.

    Extra hanger was in the Fox bag
    Fox bag? Never saw one of those or the seat post collar. My derailleur hanger and maxel were in a plastic bag that was taped on to the frame. I did not have any derailleur hanger bolted to the frame when i got it. An extra derailleur hanger would have been cool.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by noosa2 View Post
    Fox bag? Never saw one of those or the seat post collar. My derailleur hanger and maxel were in a plastic bag that was taped on to the frame. I did not have any derailleur hanger bolted to the frame when i got it. An extra derailleur hanger would have been cool.
    Not a "FOX" bag persay, just the bag that had the FOX FLOAT instruction pack in it. Contact Scott and he will send one out to you.

  17. #417
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    Oh got ya. Yah I'm good regardless, too busy riding ;-)

  18. #418
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    Same here... went out for another ride last night and just amazed at what this bike can just eat up. I was pretty tired and legs are burnt from new kettlebell leg exercises on Tuesday so the "push" was just not there but once again I get home and find a few more PRs on the normal lines.

    I am going to throw the GEAXs on it tonight or tomorrow.. While I like the RoRos and how light they are there are those few times where I come into a corner hot and try to push out and the tires just don't have the grip necessary to take it. Otherwise they have been great. Curious to see if the tire weight makes a difference or not. Really surprised that I have been dropping this many PRs when the Inbred was only a bit heavier and geared more for climbing. Maybe that is just case-in-point the benefits of the FS vs. HT.

  19. #419
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    At 190#, I found 203 front a little too grabby with a metal pad and prefer 180 with resin, but run what you got. 160 is all you need in the rear since it just locks up at a certain point anyway.

  20. #420
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    Re: Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Quote Originally Posted by carpio77b View Post
    At 190#, I found 203 front a little too grabby with a metal pad and prefer 180 with resin, but run what you got. 160 is all you need in the rear since it just locks up at a certain point anyway.
    I agree, which the exception of heat. I run up a size to manage brake fade. I find stock pads on XTs and 203, 180 to be a great combo.


    The 203 on my rigid looks funny, but its getting replaced with 160s

  21. #421
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    Speaking of rigid, I just received a Surly Krampus fork to throw on the Inbred as soon as I finish truing my wheels - BHS hubs with WTB i25 front i19 rear. May go with a Knard on the front, but waiting for more 29+ tire options. WTB should get on this so I can call there customer service specialist again.

  22. #422
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    Does anyone have an issue when you have full rear suspension compression pinching the rear brake line and derailleur cable in the upper link on the aft side of the shock?

  23. #423
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    Zongman.... can you take a pic for us? I have had zero issues with any crimping and I am getting full travel out of my shock. Did you leave enough line to allow for growth while the suspension is flexed? Maybe too much line?

  24. #424
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    i will tomorrow, too late now. i stumbled upon this when i finally got the wheels on and sat on it only to realize i had taken all the air out of the shock. i think there is plenty of line for suspension movement but ill update with a pic and hopefully ya'll can help me out. still trying to get my stan's to seal up, i can say im getting pretty good at doin ghetto tubeless, what with all the practice!

    Edit: added pic and my rear tire has a bit of a wobble, does this mean i need to re-seat the bed to remove said wobble or might it work itself out with some riding?

    Last edited by zongman; 08-16-2014 at 09:15 AM.

  25. #425
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Ok well let us know. Yeah first things first, make sure there is air in the shock/fork. LOL. Post some pics of your build with details in the Thread in the Custom Manufacturers forum.

  26. #426
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    Biggest issue I have is my shock linkage tearing up my dropper post cable. I'm rerunning it today to fix the issue. With the post dropped, the linkage wears at it as the big goes through travel.

  27. #427
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    See now I dont have any problems like that (yet) but then again my dropper is cable actuated so it expands out when I drop the seat.

  28. #428
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    post a pic of your solution

  29. #429
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    Today I gave the bike a serious thrashing.... We did Mr. Toads Wild Ride in Tahoe and all I can say is HOLY HELL!! I have never been on such technical, downhill/freeride oriented trail in my life. But while there was a lot of walking sections in the first 1/4 or the trail because, well it is really meant for a dual-crown downhill bike, the rest was just freaking STELLAR! The Thumper ate everything up with the 140mm travel and I thank god that I had that. I did crash a couple times with one good OTB but the rest was smooth, fun drops.

    The newest section is a railroad tie and rockgarden that felt like it spanned for a mile (really about 100yds) that I got 1/4 of the way into and just said, F it let the bike run. My butt was puckered and over that back seat but I made it to the bottom and wow, just wow what a RIDE!

    Sorry no pics, but that just tells you how badass of a ride that was!

  30. #430
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    I had a lame wipeout today!

    I slid out on steep slickrock, bike went tumbling!

    That trail sounds fun, much like our local "World Cup" as we dubbed it.

  31. #431
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    Man I gotta get north and/or west...

  32. #432
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Just google Mr Toads wild ride Lake Tahoe and look at everything that comes up. I was seriously bummed I couldn't get cell signal to map the ride. Going to do some less technical rides to get my skills up and then hit it again with the GoPro.

  33. #433
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    Thats a cool trail. One of my buddies got a ton of footage today. Ill post it up. I would say youtube it, but there is no current videos. The trails have gotten so.gnarly from the unusual rains this year.

  34. #434
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    Man I really wish that I could find a good video of the upper section of Mr. Toad's as it is completely meant for a DH bike but still somewhat rideable on a singlecrown if you really know what you are doing.

    This is the upper mid section, still pretty gnar and doesnt seem like much until the very end when the guy looks up the hill. Drops on this are no less than 10"-12".


  35. #435
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    Downhill parks are meant for downhill bikes, but I ride my Unveil on it. Completely capable.

  36. #436
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    Guys check out you tube video ripping the porcupine trails on cannondale Jekyll. Damn dude is awesome. Would post if I knew how...lol

  37. #437
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    Ok here is a one that actually shows the full staircase.. Like I said, when you are on it it feels like a mile but really it is maybe 100yds.



    Oh and to post video you have to go into advanced, then look for the little "movie real" icon in the second row. Click that and then post the URL for the video and wahala!

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Man I really wish that I could find a good video of the upper section of Mr. Toad's as it is completely meant for a DH bike but still somewhat rideable on a singlecrown if you really know what you are doing.

    This is the upper mid section, still pretty gnar and doesnt seem like much until the very end when the guy looks up the hill. Drops on this are no less than 10"-12".
    Killer! Want to ride!

  39. #439
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    Derailleur hanger update:
    We are just about out of spare hangers. The manufacturer in Taiwan has raised the MOQs (minimum order quantities) to a ridiculous number.
    I am working w/ a machinist here in the States to get some manufactured...should have prototypes done soon....so still a little ways out on final versions.

    If someone needs replacements/backups sooner than later you can purchase here
    Derailleur Hanger #338

    If you have a Thumper frame that didn't show up w/ the extra hanger you can purchase one and I will reimburse you.

  40. #440
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    Thanks for the info Scott... I will have to order one from you soon.

  41. #441
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    Hi Scott,
    What is the shock size and what is the size of shock eyelets? I was thinking to convert it to needle bearings and need to know what kit to order from
    RWC SHOCK EYE NEEDLE BEARING KITS

    I had just couple of rides and may be bushing need to break in or something, but right now they stick too much and I think it hurts with small bump compliance.

  42. #442
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    El_Zilcho.... look at Fast Bananas build thread as he replaced the bearings in the frame when he had it powder coated and believe he lists them there.

  43. #443
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    Thanks Scott! Just received my seat post clamp and derailleur hanger.


  44. #444
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Sweet


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  45. #445
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    !?!?!?!!!! Is that a cable guide ON the seatpost collar?!
    And I see a backlit keyboard, someone is a gamer! Since it is red I am assuming FOR THE HORDE!!

  46. #446
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Yes sir...those are what were supposed to come on the frames (sounds like 1/4 of the frames people have received didn't have one with it) and that Taiwan was nice enough to take my $$ for




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  47. #447
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    Now that is seriously trick!

  48. #448
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    I have the same one. The plastic loop is cheap and it broke.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    !?!?!?!!!! Is that a cable guide ON the seatpost collar?!
    And I see a backlit keyboard, someone is a gamer! Since it is red I am assuming FOR THE HORDE!!
    i sit in the dark when i type so i needed to see the keys. i dont game as much these days, havent played wow in a while, alliance, i dabble in d3 occasionally. i did play borderlands 2 a lot and its a mech keyboard :O. also id rather be riding but there are only so many hours in the day.

  50. #450
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    Agreed, I haven't played WoW (or any MMORPG for that matter) in about 8yrs. I would seriously rather be out riding and since I am at the office at 6am every morning, work til 5pm that only gives me a few hours to ride in the evening. Thank god we didn't decide to have kids otherwise I would never ride!


    So found what I what was my first bit of real carnage from the Toads ride last weekend. While I did bend the back rotor smacking it into a rock (remember it happening) I thought that was all I did, then when my buddy and I rode the other day I noticed a serious wobble in the front wheel. Ok, well it was a gnarly trail so it looks like I need to tru the front.

    Last night I go to mess with the wheel and find that I have a BUNCH of rock shoved between the bead and the rim wall. This was throwing the tire completely off to one side making it seem like it was wobbling. Few minutes to take the tire off and dump all the rocks and gravel out of the wheel, clean the rim up to ensure there are none left stuck to the side and she is back to normal. I must have either hit REAL hard (which I did a few times) or ran seriously low pressure to be able to get it to do that. One thing is for sure, these rims/tires definitely do not seat like my Stans. I mean it can get the tire on with almost no muscle, whereas with my Stans I have to use a tire lever to get the bastards on.

  51. #451
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    Agreed about Stan's, tricky bastards, I found soapy water works miracles. I still have a wobble in my rear tire, do you suppose it's not seated properly on the bead? I haven't lost any air in a week, I can't really feel the wobble while I ride.
    Last edited by zongman; 08-22-2014 at 08:33 AM.

  52. #452
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    @gregnash...oh man! That's wild, first I've heard of that predicament...that trail is sounding more and more desirable helluva skills challenge

    @zonman - that would be my guess...deflate soap that bad boy up again and give it another shot. You should here the "pop" when it's all seated.
    You know that scary "pop" where it's either seating perfectly or blowing off the rim and splattering you with sealant



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  53. #453
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    @scott that's what I'm afraid of, I'd rather not get covered in sealant but I'm gonna fix it cuz it's gotta be right.

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by zongman View Post
    @scott that's what I'm afraid of, I'd rather not get covered in sealant but I'm gonna fix it cuz it's gotta be right.
    Use a floor pump, and pump it up over 40 PSI. Once it pops into place lower the PSI back to a normal level.

  55. #455
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    ^^^ This, or take a look around the bead seat area... Most tires have a small line that shows where the bead seat is, if the tire is not seated properly you should be able to tell.

    @scott, yeah was really strange, found a couple of dime sized rocks in there and lots of other gravel. Sections of the trail were pretty loose and gravelly as Tahoe has a lot of natural granite. That coupled with hard impacts off a drop into a turn or running hard/fast into a berm probably resulted in the rocks getting lodged in there. Good thing was that I never lost any air pressure and tire never came unseated.

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_America1976 View Post
    Use a floor pump, and pump it up over 40 PSI. Once it pops into place lower the PSI back to a normal level.
    I did that the first time I tried to set em up tubeless and around 43 psi the tire blew off the rim. 😲

  57. #457
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    Take a good look at the rim and the tire bead where it blew off to make sure that there are no issues with that area. I had an old WTB Moto Raptor that was notorious for randomly blowing off whether tubed or tubeless. Come to find out that the bead was broken in that spot which was causing it to blow off.

  58. #458
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    well i tried it twice while the rear tire was soaked with soapy water and it still wobbles. the tire that blew off is on the front wheel which i have zero issues with. ill take a closer look and see if its damaged another day, thanks for the suggestion @gregnash

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    El_Zilcho.... look at Fast Bananas build thread as he replaced the bearings in the frame when he had it powder coated and believe he lists them there.
    Thanks Gregnash. That thread had the correct info. You need 22.20mm mounting kit from RWC. Got and installed the kit today and HOLLY$HIT what a difference. Did not have a chance to ride the bike today but on a small test ride in front of the garage I actually had to increase the rebound couple of clicks couse the bike became too bouncy with needle bearing instead of bushing in there.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Next build... HammerHead Thumper-2014-08-23-16.51.59.jpg  


  60. #460
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Great builds guys. I can't wait to start a thumper build. One fork away from a completed N9 build


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  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    Thanks Gregnash. That thread had the correct info. You need 22.20mm mounting kit from RWC. Got and installed the kit today and HOLLY$HIT what a difference. Did not have a chance to ride the bike today but on a small test ride in front of the garage I actually had to increase the rebound couple of clicks couse the bike became too bouncy with needle bearing instead of bushing in there.
    Top and bottom or just the top?

    I also did the bottom made a big difference.

  62. #462
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    Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    Thanks Gregnash. That thread had the correct info. You need 22.20mm mounting kit from RWC. Got and installed the kit today and HOLLY$HIT what a difference. Did not have a chance to ride the bike today but on a small test ride in front of the garage I actually had to increase the rebound couple of clicks couse the bike became too bouncy with needle bearing instead of bushing in there.
    Nice!


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  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Top and bottom or just the top?

    I also did the bottom made a big difference.
    Just the bottom for now. Top does not seem to move too much.


    Had a real test ride today. This mod really does make a difference. Really happy I did it. Small bump sensitivity is great now.

    So my bike is done for now. Not gonna change anything anytime soon.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Next build... HammerHead Thumper-2014-08-23-16.51.00.jpg  

    Last edited by El_Zilcho; 08-24-2014 at 09:34 PM.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    So my bike is done for now. Not gonna change anything anytime soon.

    LOL Famous last words!!!

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    lol famous last words!!!
    ha!

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    Just the bottom for now. Top does not seem to move too much.


    Had a real test ride today. This mod really does make a difference. Really happy I did it. Small bump sensitivity is great now.

    So my bike is done for now. Not gonna change anything anytime soon.
    Looks great....and great info on the shock mounting kit

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    Just the bottom for now. Top does not seem to move too much.


    Had a real test ride today. This mod really does make a difference. Really happy I did it. Small bump sensitivity is great now.

    So my bike is done for now. Not gonna change anything anytime soon.

    I said that until I wanted a 27.5 rear wheel.

  68. #468
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    Speaking of changes. I made some serious Thumper changes for an upcoming endurance race. I swapped out the Fox 34 150 for a X-Fusion Slide 120 I had laying around. I was having a bit of trouble climbing the really steep stuff on the 150. I also swapped out the Flow Ex for Chinese carbon hoops. It totally changes the attitude of the bike. I was on a trail with a few rock gardens and lots of roots. Climbs like a goat on fire. I cleaned three uphill sections that give me fits. The higher HTA also was nice in the really tight stuff. All that said, I will be switching everything back to the way it was as soon as the race is over.

  69. #469
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    I have been contemplating dropping my Rev down to 130 to see if it climbs a little better. I have not hand many problems but in the few sections that are real short, steep climbs I do find that I have to move way forward on the saddle to keep the nose planted. I know this is more of a training due to the difference in the bike but was wondering what your thoughts on the change in HTA were with regards to the feel while descending and climbing.
    I know that TwoNin9r was using his Rev at 130mm but recently bumped up to 140mm. This is more of a tuning item for myself, as I stated before I am an analyst by nature and job so I like to view all aspects.

    Also, should there be no new 34mm AM offering coming from Manitou this year I am thinking of investing in the RCT3 damper assembly for the Revelation. Mine is an older (2011) RLT that seems like it is comparable to the RL version of today. I like a set and forget fork (basically what my Tower Pro has been) but also don't mind the tuning aspect as it brings a greater understanding of things for me and thus allows me to make more educated decisions. So those of you that have the Revelations (I know there are a few), what are your thoughts?

  70. #470
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    Re: Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    I have been contemplating dropping my Rev down to 130 to see if it climbs a little better. I have not hand many problems but in the few sections that are real short, steep climbs I do find that I have to move way forward on the saddle to keep the nose planted. I know this is more of a training due to the difference in the bike but was wondering what your thoughts on the change in HTA were with regards to the feel while descending and climbing.
    I know that TwoNin9r was using his Rev at 130mm but recently bumped up to 140mm. This is more of a tuning item for myself, as I stated before I am an analyst by nature and job so I like to view all aspects.

    Also, should there be no new 34mm AM offering coming from Manitou this year I am thinking of investing in the RCT3 damper assembly for the Revelation. Mine is an older (2011) RLT that seems like it is comparable to the RL version of today. I like a set and forget fork (basically what my Tower Pro has been) but also don't mind the tuning aspect as it brings a greater understanding of things for me and thus allows me to make more educated decisions. So those of you that have the Revelations (I know there are a few), what are your thoughts?
    I haven't ridden at 140 yet. There was an issue with paint and the bike has been out of commission for almost 2 months (grr).

  71. #471
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    Gregnash,

    I've only ridden my Thumper with Rev RCT3 Dual Air at 130, because that's how the fork came and don't see any reason to change it as this geo feels like the best balance for me. Before I would change fork travel to adjust the descending or climbing feel, I'd probably play with the cockpit setup or fork tune. The fox CTD shock seems to feel best with 25% sag and in the trail position at all times. I set the RCT3 up for around 15% sag in wide open mode with even pressure in both chambers (played with higher pressure in the neg. side to get better small bump compliance, but in the end even pressure felt best) and 4 or 5 clicks of compression damping from full open. With this fork tune, I suppose my HTA is similar to a 140 with 20-25% sag and full open compression, but I like the sportier setup to avoid fork dive when hard braking late into corners and also to suck up the few bigger hits I take. For me this is the best set and forget setup. You'll probably still have to get on the nose of the saddle for steep climbs, but maybe the 130mm front end will allow quicker fine tune adjustment steering when extremely slow speed climbing.

  72. #472
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    Thanks carpio... unfortunately I do not have the 10mm spacer to drop my travel to 130 so I will be sticking with 140. As for the damper side, well I have the old RLT which is like the current RL, which only has the blue knob with 5 clicks from open to lock. I am currently running 130-/120+ on the fork and it feels good to me but what I am wondering is if I will get anything extra out of the more advanced damper system of the new RCT3 vs. the older RLT? Is the LSC something that will be of benefit to me or is it just going to piss me off with constant tuning?

    I have not experienced any brake dive or anything negative with the fork so far and all the hits (small and large) have been soaked up to my satisfaction and the fork has performed quite well. However, the analyst in me automatically think that "well the did improvement so what could be the ROI on going with the newer internals?" As I have not ridden anything other than this fork, my Manitou Tower Pro with FIRM spring and my old RST M29 I really do not have much to compare it too nor to I ride more than a few times a week with a couple longer rides in there.

  73. #473
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    The RCT3 pissed me off with constant tuning until I finally dialed it in to my liking. Initially, I didn't like the Rev. very much. If you can find a good setting with the RLT damper, I'd just stick with it. I have a "low end" Marz. TST2 fork that just has wide open and lock out. Dialed it in internally using oil volume in the damper and air side without any external tuneability and it feels really good. But, maybe the analyst in you will enjoy the ability to tweak on the RCT3 dual air settings.

  74. #474
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    New question here. Proper Suspension Setup

    Some questions about setting up the rear suspension...
    Since this is my first FS I am still trying to get everything tuned. After my buddy and I built the bike we set the rear at 180psi because he had suggested doing about 10psi less than my weight (190ish). To me that has ridden great, very responsive and kept me high in the travel while still using all of the travel.

    While reading through some suspension setup guides, recently a series was released by BikeRumor.com, I found that the rear suspension was not even registering at 10% sag. From what the guide was saying, I should be at somewhere between 20-25% sag if not more for a longer travel bike. So I gave that a shot yesterday, dropping my sag to 20% (150psi) and doing a good ride. While about halfway through the ride I ended up bumping it up to 170 because it felt like the rear was sagging considerably while riding and just basically wallowing in the suspension.

    While I did not ever bottom out, it just did not feel right to me. When I bumped it up to 170psi it felt better, staying higher in the travel but still not quite as nice as the 180psi. Since I really don't know any better, what should I be looking for?

  75. #475
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    The general jist of it that you either run proper sag and use low compression switch (climb/trail/decend) or run less sag and sacrifice small bump compliance. In my research (i'm new to tuning full suspension as well) I've found that you basically tune the suspension to utilize all available travel on the trails you ride, or the whatever tune provides the most amount of traction.

    Out west you'll probably find that most of your ride is relatively smooth trail surface with sections of very rocky terrain. I can see how running proper sag might feel a bit bobby on the smooth stuff, and a bit too unsupported through the rough stuff.

    The thing is, you're better to bottom out occasionally than you are to run too stiff. You're running full suspension for a reason, why not use it to maximum effect?

    Here in rocky Pennsylvania, I found that running proper sag and adjusting rebound as well as using the switch on my Debonair provided the most amount of traction for climbing (while it does bob a bit at times), but more noticeable was the amount of control and ability to carry speed when running 25% sag vs 10%. 10% felt great on the climbs and smooth surfaces, but I was getting bounced around when stuff got rocky.

    So far I have not bottomed out on 25% and I've gotten accustomed to using the "switch."
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  76. #476
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    Yeah my bike will live most of its life in the Trail mode as I have smooth, rocky climbs and descents depending on the trail. While the 180psi felt good, I did not feel like I was getting bounced around but then again this is coming from a steel hardtail so anything will pretty much feel better than that.

  77. #477
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    Im 175, I run 160psi. Mostly because I dont hit some bigger stuff

  78. #478
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    Going for another ride tonight so we will see how it does at 170. If need be I have my pump with me so I will bump it up.

  79. #479
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    I recently switched mine to 170 from about 160. It makes the bike climb better with no noticeable loss in downhill performance. I weigh about 205.
    I just finished a really long race with some really long climbs. I am very happy with how this bike climbed throughout the day.

  80. #480
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    Yeah rode again last night and think that the 170psi is pretty good, like I said I am 190 outta the shower so probably 200ish all kitted up. The 150psi (20% sag) just felt like I was wallowing in the rear suspension. Conversely, last night I actually switched it out of TRAIL mode and into CLIMB when I was actually climbing (and some descending) and it did quite well. The rear seemed slightly stiffer and where I really noticed it is when I would have a short descent to another climb and would stand on the pedals I felt like I was still quite high in the travel.

    Still getting almost full travel out of the shock so I may try and adjust the PSI down to 165 to see how that plays.

  81. #481
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    Do you guys have any advice on sizing? I'm going to order a frame, torn between the sm and the med. I'm 5'8" and 30" inseam. I'm leaning towards the small-the geo on it is real close to the med slayer I had.

  82. #482
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    Re: Next build... HammerHead Thumper

    Quote Originally Posted by mtndude23 View Post
    Do you guys have any advice on sizing? I'm going to order a frame, torn between the sm and the med. I'm 5'8" and 30" inseam. I'm leaning towards the small-the geo on it is real close to the med slayer I had.
    Im the same height, I run a Medium with a 125mm dropper, 25mm setback, with 45mm stem. Its perfect.

    Really the difference is a stubby stem or a 70mm.

  83. #483
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    Fist disappointment with my bike Not even 10 rides and my main pivot bearings are shot. I'll try to post the video later, but when I move the rear triangle by hand I see some lateral movement and feel the click.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3phj...L7O-1Q&index=1
    Kinda hard to make a video of it with two hands.
    Drying to think of the options now.

  84. #484
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    Replace them. It isn't hard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Replace them. It isn't hard.
    In your other thread I think you mentioned something along the lines of installing 4 bearings instead of 2 in main pivot. Do you think it is possible? Or it is just my imagination?

  86. #486
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    No, In some bikes there are 4. This bike has 2, and 4 isn't possible.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    No, In some bikes there are 4. This bike has 2, and 4 isn't possible.
    Is there a lip or something?

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    Is there a lip or something?
    Yes

  89. #489
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    Well that sucks. I was hoping to put 4 bearings there and forget about it. Enduro bearings gonna be here this week. Really hope they'll hold for more than ~20 hours.

  90. #490
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    Which bearings did you get?
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  91. #491
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    6000-2RS-MAX for main pivot and 698-LLB-MAX for seat stays from Real World Cycling

  92. #492
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    You will have to give us a little review on the difference in feel. I have not noticed anything in mine but if it is a worthwhile upgrade then I may just throw the money at it and call it good.

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    Fist disappointment with my bike Not even 10 rides and my main pivot bearings are shot.
    And the bearings were really shot?
    I had my main pivot bolt undo itself during the first rides to the point where I could feel a play in the linkage (looked much lilke your clip). I just tightened the bolt and everything seems fine after another couple of rides. (or maybe I should unbolt my shock to see that everything moves smoothly).

    Incidentally, I also had to retighten the bolt to the rear, drive side pivot.

    Maybe Caribou could do with a little more thread-lock

    /Johan

  94. #494
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    I can't speak to anything being loose, as I painted mine before I even rode it. Nothing has come loose on mine, and the bearings feel perfect.

    And I think my wheel parts for the B9er project should be in today...

  95. #495
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    I'll take out old bearings during next weekend and will know better what happened. I did not notice any play before and and actually tightened main pivot bolts 2 rides ago. I'm about 205 after the shower so 210-215 ready to ride. Not the lightest, but not the heaviest rider. I noticed the play before the last ride. One before it was long and included one run on blue downhill trail. I'm just learning how to jump properly, so there were no long jumps with flat landings. Only minor stuff with landing on a tabletop. I don't ride in wet conditions (San Diego, no rain) so it was not the problem.

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    You will have to give us a little review on the difference in feel. I have not noticed anything in mine but if it is a worthwhile upgrade then I may just throw the money at it and call it good.
    So here is a dumb question, what is the benefit of needle bearings over spherical bearings (or standard bearings)? Is there really a difference in durability and maintenance? Seems like to upgrade all the bearings in the suspensions would be well less than $100, probably less than $75...

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So here is a dumb question, what is the benefit of needle bearings over spherical bearings (or standard bearings)? ....
    .
    Not sure. I'm changing one type of spherical bearings to a hopefully stronger type of spherical bearings with better sealing. Needle bearing is installed in the rear shock mount instead of a bushing.

  98. #498
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    Needle bearings are not suitable for the main pivot. The enduro bearings are holding up for me under some awful conditions, including downhill park riding. Im 180 ready to ride, 165 naked.

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Needle bearings are not suitable for the main pivot. ....
    Why not? I'm just curious. My logic tells me they should be perfect there, but I'm molecular biologist and not an engineer.

  100. #500
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    See looks like I am on the heavier side of riders, as I am 190 out of the shower and probably about 200-205 kitted (depending on day and ride). While my bearings seem fine for the time being this is an anticipated maintenance item, thus I would rather take care of it sooner than later before I detonate my bearings (probably be a winter rebuild of the bike).

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