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  1. #1
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    New old rider, just bought my re-entry

    Hi all, nice to be aboard here. I'm Alex from the Philadelphia area. I've always liked bikes, since my old RU (Royce Union?) to the K-Mart Huffy I got shortly after. This was about 10 years ago and I outgrew both machines. Lately I've been wanting to get back to it so I just bought earlier today a new bike for myself

    2015 Trek Marlin 6 29er 17.5" black/green

    I know it's been a while, but I have fond memories of going as what I remember being pretty fast down some trails at Pennypack park when I was about 12-13 (25 now) on the Huffy that was at least 2x heavier than the Trek, and had no suspension at all. I hope that with the new bike and technology within I'll be able to enjoy the same fun experience.

    I'll be looking for advice upgrading some things as I am hearing the brakes are probably in need of upgrading soon. Should be picking her up next week after it's assembled. I bought at Guy's in Trevose.

    EDIT: 2 days after I ordered the bike I called and changed the color to the white. Then I decided to change it to a better bike so I now have a 2014 TREK X-Caliber 6
    Last edited by cleanneon98; 07-23-2014 at 06:44 AM.

  2. #2
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    Congrats! Here's to a long weekend waiting!

  3. #3
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    The fork on your bike is designed for bike paths and dirt road riding. Should be good for the rail trails at Pennypack.

  4. #4
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    Just ride it and see for yourself. I got back into this sport two years ago and was super impressed how much nicer the new bikes are compared to when I rode in the late nineties. I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun on your new bike.

  5. #5
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    Hope so. I want to check out pennypack, lorimer, core creek, etc. I hear playwiki is decent as well. Does anyone know if you can ride the trails at Tyler??

    I'll also be using this for local shopping and excersize so I hope it's not terrible riding in pavement.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanneon98 View Post
    Hope so. I want to check out pennypack, lorimer, core creek, etc. I hear playwiki is decent as well. Does anyone know if you can ride the trails at Tyler??

    I'll also be using this for local shopping and excersize so I hope it's not terrible riding in pavement.
    It will be perfect.

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    Everyone here is so encouraging haha.

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    Changed my order real quick to the same setup but White. I think I'll apreciate being able to see the bike better under me in the woods.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanneon98 View Post
    Changed my order real quick to the same setup but White. I think I'll apreciate being able to see the bike better under me in the woods.
    I don't think white is a good colour for a mountain bike. It shows dirt too easily and is harder to wash.

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    Harder to keep clean. Same to wash.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanneon98 View Post
    Changed my order real quick to the same setup but White. I think I'll apreciate being able to see the bike better under me in the woods.
    You need to look at the trail first.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi_GR_Biker View Post
    Just ride it and see for yourself. I got back into this sport two years ago and was super impressed how much nicer the new bikes are compared to when I rode in the late nineties. I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun on your new bike.
    ^This^
    And it don't matter what color you can wash it I wash mine after every ride mostly the drive train.
    It's all about having fun and not everyone needs a top end bike or components to have fun.
    I know people with $350 Nashbar mountain bikes that have a blast riding them on single track.
    ​​
    2015 Flyxii / ENVE /Chris King Carbon 29'er H.T.
    SRAM XX1
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T. SRAM XX1
    1997 Rock Hopper / Rock Shox Recon Silver / 1 x 10 SRAM X9 XO Mix XT V Brake system

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    Yes on looking at trail, but its nice to have a clear vision of the bike in my peripherals or if I glance down. Plus it matches the transport vehicle

    I think I'll be OK on the basic stuff for now. Brakes will be changed if they are inadequate since that's a safety no-no. Otherwise, I think it will be a little while until I can outperform the bike. I am a car guy (turbo miata built for speed and cornering) and I know that in the wrong hands even the best setup cars (in this case bikes) don't compensate for the driver/rider.

    Luckily my close friend is a driving instructor and does the One Lap of America so since he taught me years ago, I've been scaring the rest of my friends. I will learn this beast too.

  14. #14
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    Your first change for safety will not be brakes.
    Yes yours will seem totally inadequate for bumpy downhill trail sections.
    But that is because of the fork pogoing you off whenever you get going.
    You know shocks from cornering requirements for your Miata.
    Think how far you would get with no shock, just a spring.
    That's what you have now.

    X-Cal 8 or 9 or Superfly 5.
    Last edited by eb1888; 07-14-2014 at 11:35 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanneon98 View Post
    Yes on looking at trail, but its nice to have a clear vision of the bike in my peripherals or if I glance down. Plus it matches the transport vehicle
    Colour coordination is no reason to buy a specific bike, and black bikes are not hard to notice in your peripheral vision, if anything it will distract you from riding.
    But it is your choice. Now buy an X-Cal instead of the Marlin, please. The X-Cal has a better quality frame and will be a better frame to upgrade over time. X-Cal 6 .

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    I actually did call in and change my order to the X-Cal 6. I like the suspension lockout feature, plus the brakes dont seem to have as bad of a rep.

  17. #17
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    Anyone care to educate me a bit about some of the components in the bike? I don't know what's good and what's not so good. Any inexpensive upgrades definitely encouraged to share. Had this been an import car, I could figure it out

    Frame - Trek Alpha Gold Series aluminum
    Fork - SR SunTour XCM, 100mm-travel
    Rims/Wheels - Bontrager AT-650
    Hubs - Formula
    Tires - Bontrager XR1, 29 x 2.2/2.0
    Crankset - Shimano Altus
    Chainrings -42/32/22
    Front Derailleur - Shimano
    Rear Derailleur - SRAM X4
    Rear Cogs -Shimano, 8-speed: 11-34
    Shifters -SRAM X4
    Handlebars -Bontrager
    Tape/Grips -Bontrager Race
    Stem - Bontrager Race Lite
    Brake Levers - Shimano
    Brakes -Shimano M395 disc
    Pedals -Wellgo nylon platform
    Saddle - Bontrager Evoke 1
    Seatpost - Bontrager SSR

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanneon98 View Post
    Anyone care to educate me a bit about some of the components in the bike? I don't know what's good and what's not so good. Any inexpensive upgrades definitely encouraged to share. Had this been an import car, I could figure it out

    Frame - Trek Alpha Gold Series aluminum
    Fork - SR SunTour XCM, 100mm-travel
    Rims/Wheels - Bontrager AT-650
    Hubs - Formula
    Tires - Bontrager XR1, 29 x 2.2/2.0
    Crankset - Shimano Altus
    Chainrings -42/32/22
    Front Derailleur - Shimano
    Rear Derailleur - SRAM X4
    Rear Cogs -Shimano, 8-speed: 11-34
    Shifters -SRAM X4
    Handlebars -Bontrager
    Tape/Grips -Bontrager Race
    Stem - Bontrager Race Lite
    Brake Levers - Shimano
    Brakes -Shimano M395 disc
    Pedals -Wellgo nylon platform
    Saddle - Bontrager Evoke 1
    Seatpost - Bontrager SSR
    The components are not top-tier, but are still better than the Marlin for the price. The pedals are probably the first things you need to replace. Then replace things as problems arise.

  19. #19
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    The fork has hydraulic lockout but more important, fixed rebound damping. It is probably more usable than I thought.
    For platform pedals wellgo B143 work with trailrunners or similar shoes because of the stubby pins. Origin8 ULT on the bay are another option.

  20. #20
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    Are there certain types of pedals I can use? What's the difference with clip less pedals?

  21. #21
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    Clipless clip into a metal plate built into the sole of a specific type of shoe.
    Platform require a technique called low heels to help your foot stick to the pedal when you are standing going over bumps.

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    I don't want really coarse pedals in case my foot slips so it doesn't kill my shims.

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    Also I noticed that both this bike and the marlin 6 have the XCM front shock but the Xcal has the lockout ability and as someone said the different adjustment too. Are there other differences?

  24. #24
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    Name:  B143 wellgo.jpg
Views: 407
Size:  7.4 KB

    New old rider, just bought my re-entry-origin8.jpg
    Stubby or rounded pins aren't the ones that tear up your shins. The B143 are stubby. The Origin8 are rounded.
    For DH and jumping you need longer sharp pins and 5.10 Impact or Freeride shoes with sticky rubber soles. Those pins can cut.

    If you look up the XCM forks on Suntours site you see the only XCM models with rebound damping have hydraulic lockout. No hydraulic lockout, no rebound damping=pogo stick.

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    What's a set of decent pedals go for! I'm not interested in lightweight fancy stuff but more functional.

  26. #26
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    Origin8 ul8 are 60 on ebay.
    Wellgo B143 about 65. Less from CRC if you add to the order.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    Name:  B143 wellgo.jpg
Views: 407
Size:  7.4 KB

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	origin8.jpg 
Views:	50 
Size:	56.8 KB 
ID:	908221
    Stubby or rounded pins aren't the ones that tear up your shins. The B143 are stubby. The Origin8 are rounded.
    For DH and jumping you need longer sharp pins and 5.10 Impact or Freeride shoes with sticky rubber soles. Those pins can cut.

    If you look up the XCM forks on Suntours site you see the only XCM models with rebound damping have hydraulic lockout. No hydraulic lockout, no rebound damping=pogo stick.
    Wait so do you really need the specific shoes for those stubby pedals. Or can you wear regular shoes?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by PotatoMTB View Post
    Wait so do you really need the specific shoes for those stubby pedals. Or can you wear regular shoes?
    Regular running shoes or other shoes with some lug or bumpiness on the bottom.
    When you see pedals with sharp skinny pins they need 5.10s because those sharp pins will tear up the soles of regular shoes and your shins unless you wear protection.

  29. #29
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    Vans all the way

    Good 'ol Vans work for me. I'm still a fan of them from my BMX days....and they're half the price of the five-tens.

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    Man that's kinda pricey for pedals haha. I'll take a look around. Do I just search for bike pedals?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanneon98 View Post
    Man that's kinda pricey for pedals haha. I'll take a look around. Do I just search for bike pedals?
    Go to your LBS and check around at pedal selection there. I found a set of decent Wellgo metal flats for $25 at a bike shop.

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    Took it for a first ride today mainly on paved roads. Seat sucks big time and my shoes slip off the pedals but that's both my crappy shoes and the cheapo pedals. Shock works nicely and its nice to be able to reach down and unlock it for a bumpy area and then lock again for pavement. That said, otherwise the bike is awesome and pretty fast with the big wheels. It's weird that the shifters on one side work differently than the other, in other words, the bigger lever on the left changes gear up, but on the right the same lever changes gear down.

    I want a speedometer/odometer for it. Any suggestions on ones that wont break the bank and work with a 29er?

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanneon98 View Post
    Took it for a first ride today mainly on paved roads. Seat sucks big time and my shoes slip off the pedals but that's both my crappy shoes and the cheapo pedals. Shock works nicely and its nice to be able to reach down and unlock it for a bumpy area and then lock again for pavement. That said, otherwise the bike is awesome and pretty fast with the big wheels. It's weird that the shifters on one side work differently than the other, in other words, the bigger lever on the left changes gear up, but on the right the same lever changes gear down.

    I want a speedometer/odometer for it. Any suggestions on ones that wont break the bank and work with a 29er?
    I have a Cannondale computer but that might be too pricy, Giant has a nice selection.
    You can set up any bike computer to 29".

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    Quote Originally Posted by CannondaleF9 View Post
    I have a Cannondale computer but that might be too pricy, Giant has a nice selection.
    You can set up any bike computer to 29".
    I definitely need to get used to the bike a lot better before I start doing downhills and looking for jumps, landing on the hardtail is like walking a tightrope, has to be right.

    I'm sure it's capable, but am I?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanneon98 View Post
    Hope so. I want to check out pennypack, lorimer, core creek, etc. I hear playwiki is decent as well. Does anyone know if you can ride the trails at Tyler??

    I'll also be using this for local shopping and excersize so I hope it's not terrible riding in pavement.
    Hey, I know you (sorta) from TST, i was ToyotaTat, though no longer active.
    There's a weekly group ride for beginners (really anybody) at Core Creek on Wednesdays at 630. a few of us are riding there tonight also at 630, organized through meetup.com Core Creek is a great place to ride for any skill level and it's tough to get lost.
    Tyler only allows bikes on paved surfaces so I avoid it due to pedestrian traffic.
    I haven't rode Pennypack or Lorimer.
    The trails around Playwicki aren't considered part of the actual park. I can show you around there if you want, I ride it regularly and there's a way to ride from Playwicki to Core Creek too.
    pm me if you want to set something up, and welcome to the forum / mtb world.

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    Hey man I remember you! Yea I didn't get to make it out tonight but maybe next week. I'll need to keep my eyes peeled for upcoming stuff. I have not ridden at core creek yet.

    You really can't ride the trails at Tyler? I seen people do it I think

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    there's posted signage stating bikes have to stay on the paved surfaces, because of the horses on the wooded trails (at least as of last summer). I haven't went back since. if people are riding the trails, either the rules have changed or they're just badass like that.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFinn510 View Post
    there's posted signage stating bikes have to stay on the paved surfaces, because of the horses on the wooded trails (at least as of last summer). I haven't went back since. if people are riding the trails, either the rules have changed or they're just badass like that.
    Why would they not allow bikes to go on a dirt trail?
    There's a similar thing near my house, but that's because it is a National Park.
    But really, if the trails are nice ride them anyway and avoid horses. If you are "caught" put up an argument about the crazy rules.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CannondaleF9 View Post
    Why would they not allow bikes to go on a dirt trail?
    There's a similar thing near my house, but that's because it is a National Park.
    But really, if the trails are nice ride them anyway and avoid horses. If you are "caught" put up an argument about the crazy rules.
    They probably wouldn't mind you riding the trails if they could find a way to make money like renting you the bike, greedy bastards.

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    Do I have to be fully stopped and off the bike to lock the front fork or can I reach down and do it on the go?

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    On the go. Forks have or often can be setup with a remote on the bars to make it easier.

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    OK, cause one LBS said nothing about it, and another said that locking them when not stopped/unloaded can break the mech inside. Can I set SAG on this fork too? It seems to be performing OK for the time being but I have nothing to compare it to. It's not buttery over rocky and rooted terrain but there's no rear shock so I can't tell how much is up front and out back. I haven't felt yet that the fork is not doing it job though

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    You should have some latitude for sag control, probably using a dial on top of the left leg. The spring has a weight range and there are no optional choices.
    This is a basic fork. Buttery is not a design goal.

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    I do get a little wiggle in the fork when i hold the front brake and try to move the bike back and forth, I cant see much movement but can hear like a popping sound...or maybe its the spring in there.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by CannondaleF9 View Post
    I don't think white is a good colour for a mountain bike. It shows dirt too easily and is harder to wash.
    Wrong. White is the shiz.
    New old rider, just bought my re-entry-wp_20140716_009.jpg

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    The wiggle and sound was actually the headtube loose. I took it to the shop and they said it was a good thing I brought it in and that it had broken in and just needed to be tightened. They showed me how to check and adjust it myself and I played with it at home as well. I still have very minor movement but if I tighten it anymore the steering starts to get sticky. I assume there will always be SOME play there, but I can't even say I have 1mm of movement.

    What kind of things should I really not do on this bike? I am starting to feel MUCH more comfortable with it, taking jumps over curbs, down steep fast hills, rolling down small sets of stairs, just really starting to be un-bound from the road. I know as a hardtail it has some limitations, but maybe others that will break the bike sooner?

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