Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    shining bright
    Reputation: cncwhiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    353

    (New to me) Niner RIP 9 build

    I've been riding a Sette Razzo for the last two years, and finally pulled the trigger on a full squish setup. Found this RIP 9 frame on ebay, and also got a Chris King headset from the same seller.

    I'll be using my Reba SL fork for the time being, set at 100mm. It was set at 80 on the razzo, and I have been told I really need 120 or better for this frame. I could have taken the reba out to 120, but it will be really flimsy at that point. When I changed the travel on the fork I went to 100 for now. We'll see how it goes.

    Mostly everything from the razzo came to this frame, which includes:

    Avid Elixr CR brakes
    Mavic 719 rims (setup ghetto tubeless with home made sealant and gorilla tape) running Geax Sagauro tires
    X9 Rear Derailleur
    Deore XT front Derailleur (provided by the frame seller)
    X7 shifters
    Truvativ Stylo crank (3 x 9 at the moment) but considering moving to either a two or maybe even a one chain ring setup.
    Saddle (WTB Laser)
    Bars, Stem, and grips are Sette.

    One of the main reasons I bought the razzo two years ago was because of the really good components. I knew I'd be able to do exactly what I'm doing now, someday

    The old seat post was 27.2 dia, so I ordered a new Thomson Elite setback post from tree fort, along with a Chris King bottom bracket. I really wanted the bottom bracket in red to match the red headset, but they were backordered. I settled for navy blue instead.

    The bottom bracket would have come form the Sette too, but I learned a valuable lesson. Channel lock pliers will effectively cave in the outer bearing shell on an external bearing bottom bracket...All because I was in a hurry and didn't want to drive to the LBS to get the right tool for the job lol. Oh well, I'm sure the Chris King unit will be better, and I have gotten the right tool for the job now to install it.

    From What I can tell it is either an '08 or '09 model frame. It is sized large, which is what i needed. The LBS had to make me some new cable housings, because the routing is a little different. Everything is all systems go for now, just waiting on the seat post and bottom bracket to come in the mail. The wait is killing me!



    The bottom bracket will be in today, so I can go ahead and install the crank and start setting the derailleurs. That's gonna be fun.

  2. #2
    MTB B'dos
    Reputation: LyNx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    17,238
    Good luck with that, great fork, don't be afraid to take it out to 120mm and especially don't worry about it being flexy, you have other things that'll be much flexier. If you don't mind telling, how much did you pay for the frame?

    FYI, the rear brake hose should be routed inside the stay and cable tied if necessary, not on the outside.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
    MTB Barbados
    My MTB vids

  3. #3
    shining bright
    Reputation: cncwhiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    353
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Good luck with that, great fork, don't be afraid to take it out to 120mm and especially don't worry about it being flexy, you have other things that'll be much flexier. If you don't mind telling, how much did you pay for the frame?

    FYI, the rear brake hose should be routed inside the stay and cable tied if necessary, not on the outside.
    I paid $800 for the frame. Not sure if it is a deal or not, but considering the new ones are north of $1500 I figured I did alright. The shock is supposed to be in good working order too. It aired up fine. I had to increase the pressure for my weight.

    The frame is a standard 1 1/8" head tube, which works with my fork. while I'd like to have the stiffness of the newer tapered setups, I got this because I knew I wouldn't have to buy a new fork.

    I saw the cable guide on the inside back there for the brake hose, but figured it would not hurt to run it like this. Main reason I didn't do it that way is because the hose end is bolted at an angle that will not quite work. I'd have to loosen that bolt to change the direction of the cable, and I'm afraid that I will have to bleed the brakes. Not that I can't do it, I just don't want to..lol

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Gasp4Air's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,223
    That would be pre-2009, which is when they drastically reworked the tubing. I was riding one identical to yours (2008), and replaced it with a 2011 version. Stiffer for sure, no regrets, but not as pretty! Enjoy!
    Use it, use it, use it while you still have it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •