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  1. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Taylor View Post
    As far as the Avid BB5 brakes - I have the same on another bike and havent had any issues. They are easy to adjust and clean. Something to replace farther down the road but will work for a good long while.
    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    The bike comes with 180 rotors front and rear. Didn't notice that when I bought it. I like it.
    Handlebar has the large diameter almost to the levers. I swapped grips for some longer lock-ons grips that I have. Made moving the levers in impossible, and made mounting bike computer almost impossible. Had to jerry-rig something off the reflector mounting bracket. Probably going to replace it at some point. Heavy has heck too.
    I bought the 21" XL frame, but the fork came with the medium spring????
    I didn't notice that either, but now I do thanks to you bring it up. For some reason I just assumed that the point2 has 160's like the Point1. I suppose this means, I do not really need bb7's or at least it is not a priority. The Short front brake cable is an eye sore though! imo




    My point2 gets delivered on Wednesday! *happy dance*

  2. #502
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    I don't plan to change much. As you can see, I've added a water bottle cage and a seat bag. The only other thing is the pedals and I have a set of MG-1's on the way.

  3. #503
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    Good deal for this point2? I think it would need cut down, easy enough though.

    Forté Team 720 Flat Handlebars - Mountain Handlebars

  4. #504
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    I saw that bar along with one on Nashbar that I'm considering, especially with their free shipping right now (want some new pedals too, don't need, just want) but I think I might wait a bit to see how the stock bar rides right now. Only downside was the imability to mount an old light and can't move the shifters in. Hopefully the wider grips will offset that some. Still haven't been able to get out to ride though. Spent all Sunday at the emergency room with my kid. Trying to ask a 2 year old where it hurts is impossible.

  5. #505
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    Whoops, I assumed it is a 31.8 mm stem clamp? I thought I read that, yet it doesn't say on the spec page.

    I bought the Forte 720 Flatbar ^ and Ergon GP1 grips. I'll just cut the bar down to what ever size I like.

    Hopefully you got it figured out where it hurts on the 2 year old!!

  6. #506
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    Let us know how that bar works out & post some pics. Just checked and it looks like they're all out of stock now.

    Still no idea what was wrong with my kid. Couple nights of her waking up and random total freakouts during the day screaming of stomach pains. Spent all day at the ER, x-rays, ultrasounds, cat-scan, etc... doctors couldn't find anything. She's still complaining sometimes, but it's better. At the end of the day, all that matters is she's healthy.

    I don't even want to know what this cost though. Could probably buy 3 or 4 more bikes. It was sorta interesting to see her on morphine though. 2 year olds say the strangest things when they're high.

  7. #507
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    Well I might have messed up, they had a Shorter 580 in store with a 5 degree sweep on clearance for $8. (I bought the display 720 forte, their last one). My Hybrid has the same sweep this 720 has but is probably more like 580 ish in length. So should have I bought the $8 one? yeah! I should have gotten both. Then took one back, Oh well.

    My bike shows up tomorrow, Worse case scenario I decide to make the drive and exchange it. I am guessing that I'll like the extra width though. Especially since trail riding will be the least this bike sees on usage, or simply the trails I'll be using mostly are 4 wheeler trails. so 3-4 foot wide.

    Yeah I know I could have saved 15% online but I drove to the store anyways.

    Pain, nothing on test.... freaking out child.... ouch!!

    I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow of the bar and the Ergon grips, if not tomorrow. Then by Friday.
    I am actually still worried about it being a 15.5 all the numbers say it's right but... still worried.

  8. #508
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    I'll see how this one does after I get a couple rides on the stock bar. bought the chrome because, hey it's cheap at $7 and I wanted to see how I like flat bars. It's also the 7075 aluminum, which should make it stiffer and it looks to be super light. I will probably get a wider one with more rise down the road, but that'll be next year. Winter came up too fast, and way too many things planned for the next couple weekends.

    Amazon.com: Control Tech SUP MT 28A MTB Flat Handlebar, 600mm, High Polish Silver: Sports & Outdoors

  9. #509
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    no pictures as of yet. The flat black looks good in person!! really good. Meaning the Fork will get de-stickered along with the wheels.

    I had an old stem laying around 7 degree 100mm I took one look at the factory bars and stem and cringed. I jumped on it and was like no way. So yes it got the Forté Team 720 Flat Handlebars along with my old stem Plus the Ergon GP! grips. I also took 1 small steer tube spacer out. The sweep makes up for the extra 10mm on stem. I haven't rode it yet... However from sitting on it I am thinking I'll cut about an inch off each side. Making it about a 670 mm bar. I'll ride it first before cutting anything though. LBS has a Black/silver take off synapse seat $20. I like the seat on my road bike so it makes sense to just run the same seat on this.

    15.5 good choice!! this is a big FRAME!

    it is heavy but no more so than the $800-900 Cannondale trail 29er.
    Light wheels with Racing Ralphs would drop heaps of weight, as would seat/seatpost

    all the junk a guy changes on a $1,000 29er anyways.

  10. #510
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    I still need to de-sticker the wheels and fork.

    The Forté bar still isn't cut. I think it needs Racing Ralphs or Big apple/Big Bens upgrade. How ever the WTB Prowlers will do for now.

    Brakes are a bit weak but they'll get the job done. Over all I am impressed for $399.95 + $24.99 (bar) and
    $24.99 (grips) The stem I already had sitting here.
    I still need to put on my Shimano SPD pedals.
    So $450 bones.... as it is in the pictures. I'm happy!!

    Well okay I might have been happier with a 27.5... but that's another story.

    A link to more photos Gravity Point2 - a set on Flickr


    DSC00159 by CyclingLymie, on Flickr

    Closing argument.... This Gravity is Awesome!
    The cheap schtuff on it that people complain about.. we swap that on $1,000 bikes anyways. Bars/stems/seat post/saddles/pedals/wheel sets/tires So that can't be held against BD or this bike. The value for the Money! Very liveable. This attitude coming from a guy that wants stuff his way.

    I might eventually do the brakes, I might not. I might do seat post/saddle more than likely not. Wheels yeah but probably not.

    I'll probably ride it like it is and then replace the tires when needed. and the brakes when the pads wear out. A saddle only if I find a Really good deal on a take off or used Specialized Toupe, or something. this saddle Looks good... Amazon.com: Selle Italia Q-Bik SE Saddle - BLACK: Sports & Outdoors

    However.... I think I'll spend whats left of the bike budget on a pair of endura singletrack pants.

    Happy enough, still peeved at Paypal and the 7 day wait.. but Oh well. Thanks BD, and Thanks everyone for all the posts new/old. I am glad I suffered through the first 6 pages of BD bashing (shameful), because for the money this is the best purchase ever. No regrets.

    Bonus was the $100 off.... pre black Friday sale.

  11. #511
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    actually $200 off. they dropped it from $600 to $500 about a month ago. Almost worth it at $500. Definately was not worth it at $600.

  12. #512
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    what other options (other than used) are there at $600? actually that is a stupid question, Because I agree.... with you that at $600 it is not worth it.... and neither is anything else at $600.

    At $600 I might have been interested in a $600 Cannondale Trail 29er... but only because of the Save Chain stays.

    then again at $600 I probably wouldn't have bought either one, the Gravity point2 or the C'dale.

    Trek GF Marlin SS is $600. I wouldn't do that......

    After riding this today..... It suits my purpose as a can do trails, but its purpose being the average farm off road stuff / commuter, yet fully capable of zooming down the trails.

    If I was doing XC I'd want to spend the money... how ever this bike + wheels and other items is capable of that at the same price as others. If I decide I want a 29er dedicated trail bike then this will be powder coated and blinged w/ Reba X9 etc....

    I am guessing that for dedicated trail bike (for me). 650b

    This thing screams down the road at a good speed, As is... these tires are going to suck once the snow hits though. I bet I'll be buying Schwalbe semi-slick balloons.

  13. #513
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    Gravity 29er Point 2 - with new grips, pedals, and brake levers.

    New Bikesdirect Gravity 29Point1?-gravity-29er-point-2-side-view.jpg

  14. #514
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    Those Ergon bar end grips look nice, and look useful.

    I had to put my Shimano SPD M505 pedals on, because the shimano dual purpose pedals wouldn't come off my hybrid. 6 years ago I ignorantly put them on without grease... which reminds me that I probably should take stuff off a re-grease it once a year, like pedals. lol

    The M505's might not be a bad thing though... It will keep people off my bike unless they have SPD shoes on and then I won't care if they ride it.

  15. #515
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    after 47 miles.... I think the seat needs changed. Not for sure where I want to go, with that. Other than that I have no real complaints.

  16. #516
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    I have a update on the Gravity 29er Point 2 pictured above. Took it on some trails last weekend and it was a solid performer. Handled the roots and rocks well (even with poor quality tires). I rode it for a solid hour on Intermediate level trails and my only complaint is a sore rear (the seat is a not as wide or soft as I prefer). The chain hits the frame often so I also recommend adding a chain guard to reduce noise and protect the metal. You can use electric tape or a old inner tube for a cheap solution (check YouTube for tutorial). Not all the bike parts are quality such as the pedals, tires, rims, and grips so be on the lookout for deals on amazon for upgrades. Overall this is the best deal for 29er that I could find. If you are in the market and remotely handy with tools (some assembly required) then buy this bike. Its a steal at the current price. Have fun on the trails!!

  17. #517
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    For sure, I agree with all of that. Brakes are weak but they do stop (if you use them).

    For a chainstay guard I picked up some flat black tennis racket grip $2.99 and then electrical taped the ends. I chose that over an old tube to be more uniform in color. however for noise I should have used a tube. Tennis racket grip isn't bad though, and also looks nice.

    The Seat is Ouch! Mondays ride was 26 miles 15 country roads, 6 urban, 5 offroad. I wore shorts under blackbottom tights. Maybe the seat just doesn't fit me. On the look out for a take off. how ever there are some $30 deals like Nashbars R1, Origin 8 Flyte and another for $31-32


    My other advice, take the tire half off the tube out and clean out the metal, i got a flat already from it.



    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Taylor View Post
    I have a update on the Gravity 29er Point 2 pictured above. Took it on some trails last weekend and it was a solid performer. Handled the roots and rocks well (even with poor quality tires). I rode it for a solid hour on Intermediate level trails and my only complaint is a sore rear (the seat is a not as wide or soft as I prefer). The chain hits the frame often so I also recommend adding a chain guard to reduce noise and protect the metal. You can use electric tape or a old inner tube for a cheap solution (check YouTube for tutorial). Not all the bike parts are quality such as the pedals, tires, rims, and grips so be on the lookout for deals on amazon for upgrades. Overall this is the best deal for 29er that I could find. If you are in the market and remotely handy with tools (some assembly required) then buy this bike. Its a steal at the current price. Have fun on the trails!!

  18. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Taylor View Post
    ...(even with poor quality tires). ...tires, rims, and grips so be on the lookout for deals on amazon for upgrades. ...
    Why a lot of people call tires and rims poor quality? Im a newb and just curious. Wider tires are better but this tires work very well. Same with rims, after 8 month they are mostly true and I weight 210lb and anything but gentle with the bike. I upgraded brakes and fork, because they were really lacking and I could transfer it to my next bike but rims are OK for this level of a bike.

  19. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    Why a lot of people call tires and rims poor quality? Im a newb and just curious.
    all depends on how you are riding. I am 180 lbs and I don't think the WTB wheels are stiff enough if ridden aggressively. However I don't think that matters much with the WTB Prowlers as a rider would be laying the bike down on its side riding that aggressively with them.


    I however am coming from road cycling and I ride very aggressively even at 180 I can feel wheels flex (Not my Mavic Kysirium elites though). Sprinting up shorter hills the Mavics zoom to the top, the Shimano RS10 wheelset are slugs and power drains.

    The 'Poor quality' used here with the WTB speed disc wheels is more than likely referring to performance, not quality or durability.

    I agree with you that for this bike (as it is set up), and for this price the rims are Okay. the tires are also okay for day to day riding street, gravel, or trail. (haven't had them in mud yet)

    Going down the same trails I've been riding on 700x28 slicks at 85 psi.. these Prowlers even at 35 psi have slipped on more roots than the 28's. The ramp up on the wooden bridge? same story they slip. Cornering on hard pack, I trusted the slicks better than the Prowlers there also.

    there is the weight issue also. changing the tires plus wheels could easy shave off a pound. But so could changing the fork out. Rockshok TK to a Reba... Feather vs rock. lol

    For day to day riding the wheelset/tires will work fine.

    There are the hubs to think about also.

    My mind works like this

    $400 this year for a bike, and then $400 next year for Stans Arch is $800. Still better than $1,000 bike. I'll also need tires eventually. When these wear out I can upgrade to something on sale/clearance/closeout.

    I can change the TK fork to a Reba. $400 and now I am at $1,200... WAY better than any $1,200 bike on the market.
    Add brakes,

    now I am at $1,400 If I want to spend that much.

    That is my argument for buying Gravity/Bikesdirect bikes. The stuff you upgrade, you'd probably be doing on any sub $1,600 name brand new bike anyways.

    My only irritation/annoyance so far was getting a flat while out to only find metal stuff from wheel production inside the wheel. Lucky I was in town next to a shop with big air lines a couple huge blast and the tire/wheel was clean. If this happened to other people I am sure they'll blame the Prowler for a flat.

  20. #520
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    Oh and the quip about using brakes..... I crashed over the bars already.

    I rear ended a friends truck. He stopped, I didn't thus I hit him with my bar turning my front wheel into his bed and over the bars I went. The bike came with as I was clipped in. So I now have a slightly scuffed grip, and a road rashed QR lever. A nice rash on my hip, and then a sore shoulder.

    Rumor in the neighbor hood is that I was ran over.... Works for me as it makes me sound less stupid. I suppose I need to get used to those new 720mm bars, or I'll be doing the same thing with trees.

  21. #521
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    It was used and $23. Ritchey WCS Contrail saddle sporting their vector technology. 142mm 250g
    I'd rather have a 130mm saddle I think, but all of my saddles have been in the 140 ish range.

    That puts me up to $475 with the stem, bar, grips, and (soon) saddle changed out. Also running my old SPD's.

    We'll see... Saddles are very personal though. I like the shape. Not many reviews to go on with the Ritchey contrail. Ritchey WCS Contrail Saddle Reviews - Mtbr.com

    I'm very happy with this bike! 95 miles and my only complaint is saddle. Which is hopefully fixed soon.

  22. #522
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    I also want to get this bike the p2. But they only have the 15" and 19". I am 5'9.5" and have 31" inseam doing the book measurement on my bare feet. I wanted the 17.5" but SOLD OUT! !. I don't wanna miss out on the deal. Should I just get the 19" one?

  23. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by zumogo View Post
    I also want to get this bike the p2. But they only have the 15" and 19". I am 5'9.5" and have 31" inseam doing the book measurement on my bare feet. I wanted the 17.5" but SOLD OUT! !. I don't wanna miss out on the deal. Should I just get the 19" one?
    My measurements are about the same as yours and I went with the 17.5 as you mentioned. The frame is pretty big in my opinion so if you choose to grab one you might want to go 15.5.

    Take a look at Post $510; it has a lot of pictures of the 15.5. My post #497 shows the 17.5.

  24. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by zumogo View Post
    I also want to get this bike the p2. But they only have the 15" and 19". I am 5'9.5" and have 31" inseam doing the book measurement on my bare feet. I wanted the 17.5" but SOLD OUT! !. I don't wanna miss out on the deal. Should I just get the 19" one?
    re-read the Geometry chart

    I have no idea if this is a typo'O or not, but other than stand over the 15.5 and 17.5 only have a 2 mm Effective top tube difference? Along with a 3mm wheelbase difference?

    I am 5' 8-1/4" with a (book) 30" inseam. I went with a 15.5 for stand over and have changed the stem to a 100mm 6° over the stock 90mm 10° I also put on flat 9° sweep 720mm bars cut down to 670mm bars. Edit: I may switch back to a 90mm 6° stem though so I can flip it down.
    I think I've long arms or something. As my road bike was a 56. If I knew then what I knew now, I would have bought a 54 and put on a longer stem.

    Look at the pictures linked by VTFargo in post #348 of him sitting on a 17.5 New Bikesdirect Gravity 29Point1?
    VTFargo say in post #346 he is 5' 10" with a 30 inseam.

    Hard to tell you what to do here. A 15.5 is very close in size to a 17.5.
    a 19" is big difference. Re-read through this thread and see if there are other hints.

    And as always it is easier to do a set back seat post along with a longer stem/slammed stem than it is to push a seat forward and shorten a stem.

    Edit: I am super glad I went with the 15.5 on stand over because with the saddle nose hitting my back the top tube is cutting it close. Not sure where they got the Stand over measurements, as they are not that roomy IMO. This will get worse with a saddle swap, as I think the WTB speed V is a short.

    My road bike race geometery was too big, and my hybrid is too big. My new road bike is awesome, and this 15.5 Gravity is awesome.. I never want to be stretched out again! It's painful!

  25. #525
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    Re: New Bikesdirect Gravity 29Point1?

    There are no 19" bikes available either, regardless of what's in the drop down menu. Sad I missed out on that deal.

  26. #526
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    Is this Bikes Direct?
    It is also white, but it might not hurt to Message and ask if you can get the sale price?

    Gravity 29 2 White 17 5" 29er Mountain Bike w Shimano RockShox | eBay

    I think there are 19" on ebay also... doesn't hurt to ask.

  27. #527
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    Re: New Bikesdirect Gravity 29Point1?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cyclinglymie View Post
    re-read the Geometry chart

    I have no idea if this is a typo'O or not, but other than stand over the 15.5 and 17.5 only have a 2 mm Effective top tube difference? Along with a 3mm wheelbase difference?

    I am 5' 8-1/4" with a (book) 30" inseam. I went with a 15.5 for stand over and have changed the stem to a 100mm 6° over the stock 90mm 10° I also put on flat 9° sweep 720mm bars cut down to 670mm bars. Edit: I may switch back to a 90mm 6° stem though so I can flip it down.
    I think I've long arms or something. As my road bike was a 56. If I knew then what I knew now, I would have bought a 54 and put on a longer stem.

    Look at the pictures linked by VTFargo in post #348 of him sitting on a 17.5 New Bikesdirect Gravity 29Point1?
    VTFargo say in post #346 he is 5' 10" with a 30 inseam.

    Hard to tell you what to do here. A 15.5 is very close in size to a 17.5.
    a 19" is big difference. Re-read through this thread and see if there are other hints.

    And as always it is easier to do a set back seat post along with a longer stem/slammed stem than it is to push a seat forward and shorten a stem.

    Edit: I am super glad I went with the 15.5 on stand over because with the saddle nose hitting my back the top tube is cutting it close. Not sure where they got the Stand over measurements, as they are not that roomy IMO. This will get worse with a saddle swap, as I think the WTB speed V is a short.

    My road bike race geometery was too big, and my hybrid is too big. My new road bike is awesome, and this 15.5 Gravity is awesome.. I never want to be stretched out again! It's painful!
    Thanks for the input. I did read the other post and saw the picture but was like from 2011
    just thought bigger would be better. But it seems tha I can go bigger from smaller. Not the other way around. Still would prefer the 17.5 but u shime me in with the 2mm difference. I mean it's like a 1/8". And yes they have it on eBay but for 100 more.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

  28. #528
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    Sold out 15.5"

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

  29. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by zumogo View Post
    Sold out 15.5"

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    That's a bummer!

  30. #530
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    The Ritchey WCS Contrail saddle showed up, it's nice! I'll have to get a Longer ride to know, however a quick 2 laps around the block says I am going to love it.

    On my small scale
    I got 252.2g for the Ritchey Contrail, the WTB speed V is 372.8g

    I also had my Cannondale carbon wrapped AL seat post here from my old CAAD road bike. It says I am at the maximum for out of the seat tube. Yet I still have 3" buried.

    247.1g vs the stock seat post at 362.3g

    My old seat post clamp 24.1g rather than the stock QR clamp at 58.7g

    So I shaved off 270.4g or 9.5 oz. 2/3 of a pound all for comfort. Have to love ebay!

    $23.69 for a great condition $90 saddle.

    Total spent
    $399.95 bike
    $53.36 after tax @ performance bike for Ergon grips and Forte Bar
    $23.69 saddle

    parts from home 100mm Cannondale 6° stem, seatpost, and seatpost clamp, Al. water bottle cage.

    $477

    It's an awesome bike IMO,

    10.9 miles @ 14.0 mph, Same 10.9 route on my Synpase AL 105 road bike 2 nights later, 17 mph. Average HR was the same, how ever the differences other than average speed and time was which zone my heart was in. Going up hills killed me on the Gravity. LOL Schwalbe Racing Ralphs would fix that along with Stans, Or SRAM Roam 50's

    I'm happy

  31. #531
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    224.3 miles in 20 days,

    only real complaint is a popping sound when I use the rear brake. No idea where it is coming from...

    Edit: I bet I have pads catching on the disc. I'll see if I can't get it adjusted to not do that.

  32. #532
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    Just got a Gravity 29Point2 and am really enjoying the bike except for the brakes. Came with BB5's with 180mm rotors. Shock on it is a RockShox XC which according to their website, says max rotor size is 160mm. Thinking of upgrading to BB7's. Is it OK to keep the 180mm? Can I switch to 160mm without to much brake loss?

    Thanks for the help.

  33. #533
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    Just got me a 17.5" point 2 they have some more in stock. If anyone is interested.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

  34. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFB View Post
    Just got a Gravity 29Point2 and am really enjoying the bike except for the brakes. Came with BB5's with 180mm rotors. Shock on it is a RockShox XC which according to their website, says max rotor size is 160mm. Thinking of upgrading to BB7's. Is it OK to keep the 180mm? Can I switch to 160mm without to much brake loss?

    Thanks for the help.
    Not positive about the max rotor size for the xc28 fork. I swapped my fork out for a recon silver immediately. However, I did swap over to bb7 brakes and used the adapters/mounts that came on the point2. Kept the 180 rotors, and they work great.

    What don't you like about the bb5's? Not enough braking force? I did notice my rotors had random turkey gobling until I got the alignment right. Took a couple tries though.

  35. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyclinglymie View Post
    only real complaint is a popping sound when I use the rear brake. No idea where it is coming from...

    Edit: I bet I have pads catching on the disc. I'll see if I can't get it adjusted to not do that.
    had someting similar on a gravity fsx wherethe spokes were loose. Tightened them up and it stopped. My 29.2 had a couple loose spokes when I first checked. Joys of machine built wheels.

  36. #536
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    My Topeak rocket hybrid only does presta.

    I've a few options here,
    1). get grommets and buy presta tubes.
    Or
    2). buy a pump that can do either valve also one that will pump up 29er volume topeak mountain morph. $30
    3). buy a Tubeless kit and also get tubeless tires.

    What happens to tire sealant in 0-30 F temps though?

    I am thinking a high volume pump is best option. Then going tubeless when I can afford stans, Especially considering I don't know what I want for a winter tire, knobs are going to suck on snowy roads I think.

  37. #537
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFB View Post
    Just got a Gravity 29Point2 and am really enjoying the bike except for the brakes. Came with BB5's with 180mm rotors. Shock on it is a RockShox XC which according to their website, says max rotor size is 160mm. Thinking of upgrading to BB7's. Is it OK to keep the 180mm? Can I switch to 160mm without to much brake loss?.
    I would first put an SLX on the front. No cutting. Just slide it on the bars and bolt on the caliper. 4 years ahead with no bleeding and the best brake you can get. $60.
    BlueSkyCycling.com - Shimano SLX M666 Disc Brake w/ Adapter
    Get an $11 Avid HS1 160mm rotor off ebay.

  38. #538
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    Not sure I want to go to hydraulics.

    I'm finding some great deals on Ebay for BB7's with 160mm rotors. Are the calibers the same size no matter what size rotor is used? Meaning can I keep my 180 rotors and get one of these deals and just swap out the caliber?

  39. #539
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    callipers are the same and will work with the 180 rotors on the bike. I have a brand new set of 160 cleansweeps at home just sitting on the shelf. Will eventually put them on a different bike.

    Just make sure you keep track of which post spacer goes on which post. I thought they were the same, they weren't. I put it all together and had to take them back off. Not a big problem, just be aware of it.

  40. #540
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    It took me a while to adjust the BB5, mostly due to me being a newbie at adjusting disc brakes. My pop pop clunk clunk clunk was a brake alignment issue.

    All that being said the rotors that come on this bike needs trued. OR just deal with it. After 200 miles the rub whisk whisk (from the rotors not being true) sound goes away.

    While I may not be able to pull an endo, I can grab a handful of both brakes on pavement and stop right now!

    with 160's I can see how the BB5 might be lacking, with the 180's they work.

    I am also only 180lbs so I have less mass to stop. Then again I ride like a maniac and the BB5's work effectively.

    on the weight thing, With my front light/rear light including batteries, my saddle bag, tools, patch kit, tire levers, garmin edge 500, Co2 pump w one 16g cartridge (1 is worthless on a 29er), water bottle cage. I am sitting at 34 lbs.

    Add my Nathan fire an ice reflective water bottle and I am 35+

    My 12.5 mile trip to town was 17 mph average. Return trip was brutal, and dropped me to 14.4 for entire trip.

    My bike needs a diet... In the meantime a heavier bike will result in a stronger slimmer me.

    My old stem that I had put on happened to be 110, pushing my seat too far forward. I couldn't bring myself to put that WTB stock stem back on. LBS had a Cannondale c3 90mm sitting there so I gave him $25. The 90mm stem allows me to push my seat back, While still being comfortable. My knee cap pain also went away.

    270 miles on this bike, now.

    It is a nice addition to my Giant 05 Cypress SX hybrid, and my Cannondale al. synapse 105

    As for upgrading brakes, wheelset.... maybe I shouldn't and instead set that $ aside for this.... OR what ever BD has in TI at that later date. Shimano DynaSys, 3x10 Speed 29er Titanium Front Suspension Mountain Bikes - MTB - 2013 Motobecane Fly Titanium 29er | Shimano DynaSys hardtail mountain bikes | Save up to 60% off list prices on new bicycles

    maybe $399 wasn't a good deal!! I am hooked on the 29er thing now.

  41. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFB View Post
    Not sure I want to go to hydraulics.

    I'm finding some great deals on Ebay for BB7's with 160mm rotors. Are the calibers the same size no matter what size rotor is used? Meaning can I keep my 180 rotors and get one of these deals and just swap out the caliber?
    BB7s are adequate but why buy twice? A SLX front is maintenance free and has power and modulation no BB7 can come close to. You can check out a component by doing a test ride on a bike model that has it at your lbs. XT or SLX are the same so find a new $4k bike with it as standard. Once you have the control you will get with a SLX on the front you don't need to worry about what is on the rear--it is a secondary brake. Unless you have a hydro Avid rear--you will need to change that for the noise problem.

  42. #542
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    dang you! On the nicely laid out argument.....

    however that is $60 away from ever getting a Ti. 29er.

    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    BB7s are adequate but why buy twice? A SLX front is maintenance free and has power and modulation no BB7 can come close to. You can check out a component by doing a test ride on a bike model that has it at your lbs. XT or SLX are the same so find a new $4k bike with it as standard. Once you have the control you will get with a SLX on the front you don't need to worry about what is on the rear--it is a secondary brake. Unless you have a hydro Avid rear--you will need to change that for the noise problem.

  43. #543
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    I am absolutely torn between the Gravity 29point1 and the 2015 Motobecane Elite Adventure. I dont plan on doing anything really aggressive trail-wise and will probably stick to morning rides around my small town and dirt roads, but not ruling out hitting some trails in the woods someday. I'm 6'2, 195ibs and am a little concerned the unknown rims on the EA may not last long compared to the gravity's WTB rims. I also am curious about the higher gearing on the EA and the slightly more forward positioning. Is it safe to assume that the Gravity would be beefier all around except the derailleur, and in that last longer? Is there anything in particular I should be concerned about or reason to stay away from the EA? I've only ever owned department store MTBs and so this will be my 1st decent bike.

    EA:
    Save up to 60% off new Hybrid Bicycles | Adventure Hybrid 29er Bikes Elite Adventure Sport Trail

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    I threw on Clemets X'Plor MSO 700x40's on my point2. I am 5'8" 185 and with the 40's I bomb Ohio root covered dirt trails pretty hard no issues.

    As for tall gears, they are nice on slicks & lighter bikes. My Dawes SST AL. Singlespeed is 48/16. My point2 on the same roads with the MSO gravel grinder tires is a bear pushing the 44 ring.
    Btw the MSO's do just as well as the WTB prowlers if not better, On dirt. On gravel they are way better.

    My opinion, Buy the bike you think looks best. No real huge difference.

    For me, I'll probably dump the point2 and go with a trek crossrip, giant revolt, diamondback haanjo, Raleigh tamland. I don't hit the root covered trail enough to really need the mountain bike.

  45. #545
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    I have both. The gravity had a longer feel to it and allows a larger rear tire. Can always put smaller tires on the gravity, but you can't put big tires on the elite. Gearing on the gravity maxes out about 18mph. Fine for exercise on the road.

  46. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    I have both. The gravity had a longer feel to it and allows a larger rear tire. Can always put smaller tires on the gravity, but you can't put big tires on the elite. Gearing on the gravity maxes out about 18mph. Fine for exercise on the road.
    Well the 29point1 is a 27spd bike, so it's def not the same bike p2weber is speaking of. You can definately do 30mph.

    I personally like the Gravity over the Motobecane for one particular reason.... The cable guides are under the top tube on the Gravity!!!!! Certain Motobecane are along the top tube and just looks ugly. I definitely would not want to look at the cables while I'm riding. Just ewww. Pick one with guides along the bottom. I may just be a cable snob so I gues whatever floats your boat.
    That Motbecane you linked to is more for road with a 48T front outer chainring. Tires are more geared for road as well.
    The 29Point1 has the same derailures I thought? It also has much nicer rims! If your looking to do some trail riding, I would get the Gravity. Tires are more appropriate for mixed conditions as well.
    A co-worker just bought a 29point1 and I helped him put it together. Nice bike. He did have to cut the seatpost because it was unusually long. Nicely spec'd bike for the money.
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  47. #547
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    my gravity was the 2013 29.2. I thought it had a 42T ring up front, but the spec sheet says 44. Either way, you can go 30 on the gravity; but at 60 rpm in the 44/11 gears, speed is just under 20 (Sheldon Brown's gear calculator). I know this because I took it on a 20 mile road ride, and anything over 15mph started getting harder to pedal due to wind resistance. I spent most of the ride in 44/18 to keep the RPM up.

    The same ride with the elite seemed easier, but I did end up swapping the fork for a chromoly steel rigid fork. Dropped about 2 pounds, and it's a rigid, plus the Kenda tires on the elite are light compared to the WTB prowlers. Basically, if you see yourself on road/asphalt/gravel/semi-smooth dirt, the elite is fine. If you plan anything more difficult in the future(rocks/roots/jumps/drops), I'd go up to the gravity just for more tire options. Both bikes handle road about the same at anything under 12-15 mph.

    FYI, the rims on the elite are pretty strong, just a bit narrower than the 29.1 WTB rims. I bought a 1.9" Kenda tire to put on back (cleared the frame by 2mm and required a very true wheel) and rode some legitimate mountain trails. I had more problems with the hubs (mostly the freehub), and almost all of bikedirect's mid/lower end bikes use the same style of formula hubs. In fairness, almost all the big names use the same/similar hub, so maybe I just got a bad one.
    Last edited by watts888; 06-15-2014 at 03:57 AM.

  48. #548
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    Thanks for your all's input, it gave me some more insights/things to ponder. Now I'm kind of thinking the gravity with some semi-slick tires... Top out speed between the Elite & the Gravity would only probably vary by <5MPH(?) and at least if I planned a off road excursion up at the lake I could switch the tires back and not worry about "overdoing it" on the Elite. Thanks again, you guys are awesome!

  49. #549
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    Here is something interesting from Today's Giant Demo.

    I rode my BikeDirect 15.5 GravityPoint2 Pretty much stock minus the saddle (won in contest Ergon) and bars (cheap performance Fortebars Flat 6° sweep $20) and stem (parts bin Cannondale 110mm) and grips ($25 Ergon GP1).

    The following is all 8 rides, all the same Loop.

    1 BD Gravity Point2 $399 (Black Fri sale) (not recorded)
    2 Giant Anthem Advanced 27.5 1 $4,850 (not recorded)
    3 Giant XTC Advanced SL 27.5 1 $5,150 (not recorded)
    average speed
    4 BD Gravity Point2 $399 (Black Fri sale) 9.0mph
    5 Giant XTC Advanced SL 27.5 1 $5,150 8.7 mph
    6 Giant Trance Advanced 27.5 1 $5,575 7.6 mph
    7 Giant Stance 27.5 1 $1,905 7.6 mph
    8 BD Gravity Point2 $399 (Black Fri sale) 7.1 mph

    I feel sorry for anyone trashing name brand bikes at name brand pricing offroad!

    The worse bike to ride in that ^ bunch was the Stance!
    The most fun for me XTC, (hardtail 27.5) Upgrade my 29er point2 to a Gravity 27FIVE G2? I doubt it. My 29er is fun too and obviously just as fast. It just doesn't feel as fast when riding. So the 27.5 XTC wins today for fun, only due to tire size.

    the Trance was interesting and lively and smooth, but seriously sucked going uphill.

    My other gist here, I've beat the crap out of my Gravity Point2 since Thanksgiving 2013!! Maybe on a Pro level there may be differences in the above bikes as for performance . 90% of us will never be Pros though.

  50. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by joebikesdirect View Post
    PS - we tested a WTB TCS Trailblazer 27.5x2.8 with TCS rims that have Internal width of 25mm
    from the gravity bullseye thread. tell us more.

    How much frame and fork clearance was there? what frame and fork did you use? Does BD offer or plan on offering a 27+ wheelset for sale?

  51. #551
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    I am getting ready to pull the trigger on this:
    Save up to 60% off new Mountain Bikes - MTB - Gravity 29Point5 29er Mountain Bikes

    What do you guys think?

    BD lists 21" as the biggest size on the product page but on the geometry chart it lists 23". This is true for all Gravity 29ers. Is 21" or 23" the biggest? I am a big guy so I like to get the biggest frame I can.
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  52. #552
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    If you didn't like the 20" BEM, not sure you'll like the 21" 29.5. The 21" gravity 29.series is very similar to the 20" bullseye monster. What was it about your BEM that you thought made it too small? How tall are you too? I actually like the slightly smaller fit of my 21" because it allows me to put more body english into moving the bike around under me. Larger bikes (the XL specialized fatboy for example) didn't allow me to really shift it around as easy.

    For reference, here are the geo specs for these. The 20" BEM actually had a longer effective toptube.
    - - - - - - - - gravity 29er - - - gravity monster
    size - - - - - - 21" - - - - - - - - 20"
    eff toptube - - 600 - - - - - - - 623
    standover - - - 32.1" - - - - - - 31.4"
    wheelbase - - 1148 - - - - - - 1131
    chainstay - - - 445 - - - - - - - 460

  53. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    If you didn't like the 20" BEM, not sure you'll like the 21" 29.5. The 21" gravity 29.series is very similar to the 20" bullseye monster. What was it about your BEM that you thought made it too small? How tall are you too? I actually like the slightly smaller fit of my 21" because it allows me to put more body english into moving the bike around under me. Larger bikes (the XL specialized fatboy for example) didn't allow me to really shift it around as easy.

    For reference, here are the geo specs for these. The 20" BEM actually had a longer effective toptube.
    - - - - - - - - gravity 29er - - - gravity monster
    size - - - - - - 21" - - - - - - - - 20"
    eff toptube - - 600 - - - - - - - 623
    standover - - - 32.1" - - - - - - 31.4"
    wheelbase - - 1148 - - - - - - 1131
    chainstay - - - 445 - - - - - - - 460
    Watts! You're killing me man, I finally made a decision on the bike I don't think the geo chart is correct for the Gravity 29er. I think they mislabeled it and the 23" is really the 21".

    General Sizing Guide
    15.5" - 5'7" to 5'9"
    17.5" - 5'10 to 6'0"
    19" - 6'1" to 6'3"
    21" - 6'3 to 6'5"
    This is a general guide, please consult the geometry chart
    Sizing is a personal preference, the final choice is up to you

    If you can find any Gravity on the site that lists the 23" on the product page, not in the geo chart, let me know.
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  54. #554
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    I do what I can. I know the 21" fits me, so unless you're much taller than 6'5", you should be good. The difference between the 21" and the 23" in real bike dimensions (not counting how tall the seat tube and standover is) is only 1 cm difference in length. I doubt you'd notice at all.

    One thing I did do that made a diffeence was get a wider handlebar (760mm). Opened up my chest/shoulders and gave me more control. I ended up hitting a few more trees though. $30 off amazon or any of the other multitude of onine bike shops. I would advise getting one with a lot of rise, maybe 50mm if you can find one.

  55. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    If you didn't like the 20" BEM, not sure you'll like the 21" 29.5. The 21" gravity 29.series is very similar to the 20" bullseye monster. What was it about your BEM that you thought made it too small?
    I have a long torso, I need a large cockpit. The GBEM 20" was too small all around.
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  56. #556
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    I ended up hitting a few more trees though.
    Watts watch out for those trees bro! I am learning not to look at obstacles, the more you look at them, the more tendency you have to steer towards them.

    I put another email into BD about this sizing thing. I don't feel like having another small bike, but I need a mountain bike. Which cockpit feels bigger to you, the 20" Monster or the 21" 29er, you have both right?
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  57. #557
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    Only have the 29.2 (with upgrades). I'm in the N+3 stage (3 more bikes than my wife thinks I need) where I need to sell a bike before I can get a bike. Real toss up between the GEM Pro or a Boris. The bluto would be fun, but not sure it's necessary while I have the 29er.

    The hitting the tree bit was more about actually fitting through trees. A lot of trails around me are heavily wooded and 750mm wide bars just don't fit.

    What size is your Trek, and does it feel right? Any aftermarket fit upgrades. Maybe the 22" BEM is the best route.

  58. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Only have the 29.2 (with upgrades). I'm in the N+3 stage (3 more bikes than my wife thinks I need) where I need to sell a bike before I can get a bike. Real toss up between the GEM Pro or a Boris. The bluto would be fun, but not sure it's necessary while I have the 29er.

    The hitting the tree bit was more about actually fitting through trees. A lot of trails around me are heavily wooded and 750mm wide bars just don't fit.

    What size is your Trek, and does it feel right? Any aftermarket fit upgrades. Maybe the 22" BEM is the best route.
    My Trek is 22.5" which is the second to biggest size. It feels right below the waist but I am still heavy over my hands. It's a road bike though so it is like comparing apples to oranges.

    I take bike sizing now with a grain of salt, especially BD. In terms of the 23" frames, I think they were considering them at one point, which is why they were in the Gravity 29er geo chart, but probably aborted due to market demand. On their bikeshopwarehouse dot com sister site there are some 23" SS Gravity 29ers but I think that is all that exists for 23".

    I am done with the fat bikes for the moment. I am going to get a 29er, and down the line maybe get another fat bike. I live in an 850 sq ft apartment so I just don't have room for bikes. I would love to have one of each.

    I am looking at a used 2013 Specialized Camber Comp 29, size XL, right now. Guy wants $1500 I offered him $1200. He said it was barely ridden. It is between that and the $900 Gravity HT you recommended.
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  59. #559
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    This is the bike that BD copied for the Gravity and Moto HTs:

    Specialized Bicycle Components

    Fine by me.
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  60. #560
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    Watts, do you think this:

    Specialized Bicycle Components

    is a better bike than the Gravity you recommended:

    Save up to 60% off new Mountain Bikes - MTB - Gravity 29Point5 29er Mountain Bikes

    Thanks.
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  61. #561
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    The Specialized frame has a slightly better geometry than the Gravity. The Spesh has a longer reach for use with a shorter stem. The 23in Gravity comes with a road bike length 110mm stem and a narrow 610mm bar.

    The specs on the Gravity will be slightly better than the Spesh...mostly the fork (if you care about the 15mm axle on the Gravity), shifters, and possibly the wheels. The Spesh frame lets you run full cable housing from front to back. Much more cleaner look compared to the welded on cable stops. The Spesh frame may as well be lighter too. The medium comes in at just under 4lbs. The Spesh also has different shaped tubes in different parts of the frame. That will help with stiffness and compliance. With the exception of the headtube junction at the downtube...the Gravity's tubes look to be round everywhere else.

  62. #562
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    Thanks RS, very informative answer.

    The Spec unit I am looking at is also run tubeless and has a remote lockout for the Reba. And the head tube and fork are tapered as opposed to the Gravity.

    I think the Spec would have a better resale value too.

    It will probably come down to how much I can negotiate down the price of the Spec. The Gravity is $900.

    Choices, choices, sigh.
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  63. #563
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    The spec is a better bike, but it's hard to say how much better. I will say, the wheels on the gravity are the same from the 29.1 up to the 29.6 (except using a 15mm thru axle hub on the higher levels). It's a strong built wheel, but it's not a super light wheel. For anybody over 200lbs, great wheelset. For somebody under 140 lbs, you can get lighter.

    Spec definitely wins on resale value because of the name. Basically, when you buy a bikesdirect bike, you're buying the parts super cheap and getting a frame for free. You don't get much resale out of a bikesdirect bike unless you part it out.

  64. #564
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    Thanks Watts. I agree with everything you say. At 260lbs I need a solid rig. I haven't heard back from the Spec guy and I am dying to ride so if I don't hear back by Monday or Tuesday I will probably pull the trigger on the Gravity.
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  65. #565
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    Did you end up getting a 29er?

    On a related front, I think BD really messed up on their current run of Gravity 29.x series. The WTB I25 rim is a great upgrade, but almost everything else is a downgrade. On the 29.2 how do you go from a rockshox xc28 TK to a suntour XCT HLO, and still charge more? Even the 29.1 downgraded the drivetrain and still costs more.

  66. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Did you end up getting a 29er?

    On a related front, I think BD really messed up on their current run of Gravity 29.x series. The WTB I25 rim is a great upgrade, but almost everything else is a downgrade. On the 29.2 how do you go from a rockshox xc28 TK to a suntour XCT HLO, and still charge more? Even the 29.1 downgraded the drivetrain and still costs more.
    I got a 2014 Scott Scale 960. Great bike so far, can't complain. It is more of a XC bike and I may grow into needing a more AM bike but we will see.
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  67. #567
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    Just ordered a gravity point2, what's the widest tire you can get away with ?

  68. #568
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    I'm curious is I can run a 29x3.0 on my Gravity 29Point 1.

    -Garry
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  69. #569
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    New model year, or the older runs? On the old runs, you'd be pressed to get much over a 29" x 2.35" in there. The slightest wheel wobble or tire coming out of true would start eating into the frame. There is absolutely no way anything over 2.5" would fit. I've got a 2.2" and it's getting close. Could try the 27.5+ thing, probably be able to get up to a 2.8" in back, but not sure.
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  70. #570
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    I should have specified front tire on mine. I bought mine Sept 2014 and I think it's a "2015" model.

    I've seen a few local guys going to the 29x3.0 on the front of their bikes with barely enough clearance.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    New model year, or the older runs? On the old runs, you'd be pressed to get much over a 29" x 2.35" in there. The slightest wheel wobble or tire coming out of true would start eating into the frame. There is absolutely no way anything over 2.5" would fit. I've got a 2.2" and it's getting close. Could try the 27.5+ thing, probably be able to get up to a 2.8" in back, but not sure.
    New model, brand new

    I'd like to use a 2.35 if it would fit

  72. #572
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    It probably would, but I'm not 100% sure. Since they're already using the i25 rims with a 2.2 tire, they might have designed the newer frame with a bit more clearance. You'll just have to see how much room you have to work with.

    And tire width on the fork is 100% dependent on the fork and tire. Either have to do research and ask around, or dive head first and check it out. rockshox says their recon fork is designed for a maximum tire width of 2.3, however, people have put larger tires into it. If you put in a big tire with almost no clearance, goes back to the slightest bit of tire wobble, and you'll start gouging the frame and fork though.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  73. #573
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    2016 frame is different then the 2015 ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
    2016 frame is different then the 2015 ?
    Since you asked- the 2015 frames are the same as 2016.
    Some customers have reported good results with 27.5+ tires up to 2.8 on front and rear.
    Not sure about 27.5x3.0 - might be oK on the front but tight. Rear probably not.

  75. #575
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    Assuming the 2016 picture gallery is correct, it looks like the same frame back to at least 2013 (or older) when I got mine. I'm building up some WTB asym wheels and I'll put some 2.3" tires on them. Once assembled, I'll measure and post some pictures.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  76. #576
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    Broke off my rear derailleur on my Gravity 29point1 last night (bent the derailleur to heck). Having a heck of a time deciding what to replace it with. I've noticed a lot of chain slapping and some gear jumping on it. Would like to jump up to at least an SLX with "Shadow+" clutch technology, but they are only available in 10 speed! Trying to stay away from spending a ton of money and get back on the trails soon. Any thoughts/suggestions? Others suggesting to get rid of the large chainring and add a bashguard shortening the chain to assist with greater chain tension.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  77. #577
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    I'd go with the 10-speed conversion (because that's what I did) when it gets to the point of needing to replace 2 or more items. If the chain is worn or you are getting any shark tooth of the cassette or chainrings, good time to upgrade. Otherwise, just go with the cheapest replacement part you need that'll work. I'd also try bending the stock derailure back so it's straight. It's metal after all, has a couple good bends in it. No harm in trying to get it working again.

    And a new derailure hanger.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  78. #578
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    Hmm . . . the chain does need replaced. It got twisted and bent up a bit. The stock cassette should be fine, but I better take a second good look.

    Just wondering how much money to put into this bike vs. waiting/saving for a better bike.

    Thanks for the input.
    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  79. #579
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    Well I think I've reached the end of this bike's worth and usability (Gravity 29.1 - 2015 model). I don't really regret buying this bike as an "entry level starter bike", as I think the expense was minimal compared to what I would have needed to jump up to (considering where I'm looking to jump now based on learning from experience). I sure have beaten this bike pretty hard with the riding I've done and it has handled everything I've thrown at it (as a beginning mountain biker). I've proved to the local club riders that you don't need to shell out $1000+ to get started on a bike that's able to handle our singletrack rides.

    Biggest issue I'm having now is the Suntour XCT fork feeling more like a pogo stick than a suspension fork. During my last big ride I paid particular attention to how the fork acted/performed and that's when I really noticed the constant bouncing instead of "bump absorption". I just don't think this bike is worth spending money on replacing the fork, not even if I found a good used one. I think this really should be near the top of priorities when mountain bike shopping - buy a bike with a good shock to begin with. Derailleurs (what I see a lot of people look at in comparing bikes to buy) can be upgraded rather easily and fairly cheap too (compared to the fork).

    The Shimano SLX Shadow+ derailleur was a huge upgrade over the stock Deore! That was worth it, although as seen above I wrecked the stock Deore and needed to replace it anyhow. (BTW - I ended up keeping it 9speed and doing the Shimano derailleur w/SRAM shifter "mod".)

    I was also looking into doing a 27.5 plus conversion on this bike, but again I just don't think this bike is worth the expense of a new wheelset & tires (even "budget" wheelsets). According to my measurements, the front would handle a 27.5 x 3.0, but on the rear even a 27.5 x 2.8 would be very tight!

    Budget is tight, so I won't be buying another bike anytime soon. When I do it will be another "best deal" / "bang for the buck". At least I didn't drop $1,500 to $2,000 on a bike just to find out I wanted something different!

    No regrets,
    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  80. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Well I think I've reached the end of this bike's worth and usability (Gravity 29.1 - 2015 model). I don't really regret buying this bike as an "entry level starter bike", as I think the expense was minimal compared to what I would have needed to jump up to (considering where I'm looking to jump now based on learning from experience). I sure have beaten this bike pretty hard with the riding I've done and it has handled everything I've thrown at it (as a beginning mountain biker). I've proved to the local club riders that you don't need to shell out $1000+ to get started on a bike that's able to handle our singletrack rides.

    Biggest issue I'm having now is the Suntour XCT fork feeling more like a pogo stick than a suspension fork. During my last big ride I paid particular attention to how the fork acted/performed and that's when I really noticed the constant bouncing instead of "bump absorption". I just don't think this bike is worth spending money on replacing the fork, not even if I found a good used one.

    The Shimano SLX Shadow+ derailleur was a huge upgrade over the stock Deore! That was worth it, although as seen above I wrecked the stock Deore and needed to replace it anyhow. (BTW - I ended up keeping it 9speed and doing the Shimano derailleur w/SRAM shifter "mod".)

    I was also looking into doing a 27.5 plus conversion on this bike, but again I just don't think this bike is worth the expense of a new wheelset & tires (even "budget" wheelsets). According to my measurements, the front would handle a 27.5 x 3.0, but on the rear even a 27.5 x 2.8 would be very tight!

    Budget is tight, so I won't be buying another bike anytime soon. When I do it will be another "best deal" / "bang for the buck". At least I didn't drop $1,500 to $2,000 on a bike just to find out I wanted something different!

    No regrets,
    -Garry
    I have no regrets buying a Gravity 29er. That being said I didn't upgrade it, I sold it, bought a used Giant 29er and then upgraded that. Which I don't regret buying, but I almost regret upgrading including powder coating the frame.

    Too many other options that look to be more fun than a (non race) 29er hardtail. Options coming in the flavor of 27.5 x 2.8-3. like Airborne Griffin, 2017 Raleigh Tokul 3 etc...........

  81. #581
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Well I think I've reached the end of this bike's worth and usability
    But it's fun while it lasted. A junk fork will make a bike handle like junk, and you've ridden long enough to recognize the difference a better fork will make. Plus a years worth or actual riding with an XCT fork basically destroys that fork. Almost guarantee the bushiings are worn out. With the stock frame, you can easily do the $200 suntour raidon upgrade (if you're a normal weight) or the rockshox recon silver (if you're a clyde). Both are a huge upgrade and are the stock forks on $1k+ bikes. Unless you're needing to replace a lot of parts on the bike, I'd just get a new fork and ride it. And if you're still on the stock tires, get a 2.3 in back and 2.4 or 2.5 up front.

    Alternative is to buy a better mountain bike and grab a rigid carbon or steel fork for the gravity. Use the gravity as a super road/cyclocross/gravel/exercise bike. It's a good bike, and I'd rather use it for casual riding around than a dinky little road bike.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  82. #582
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    I did swap tires out. Right now I'm running a Continental Trail King 2.4 up front and a Panaracer 2.35 up front. Oh, and I converted them to tubeless (ghetto tubeless). Both tires I got great deals on. I would consider the fork if I could get one cheap enough, even used.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  83. #583
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post

    Alternative is to buy a better mountain bike and grab a rigid carbon or steel fork for the gravity. Use the gravity as a super road/cyclocross/gravel/exercise bike. It's a good bike, and I'd rather use it for casual riding around than a dinky little road bike.
    that is where I screwed up (money wise) I should have threw on some Big Apples and rode it as a casual riding bike. However, I don't really consider it a screw up because I picked up a 91 Schwinn Crosscut for $75 that I will turn into a XT 1x10 casual flat bar. Most of my casual riding will be pavement. So a 35-40 slick works better for me.

    25 years later there is nothing to complain about on the Crosscut. The Cr-moly frame rocks. Cheapest route would have been to just street queen the Gravity. Oh well.

  84. #584
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    What is clearance for rear tire?
    Veni Vidi Biki

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  85. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by skankingbiker View Post
    What is clearance for rear tire?
    Clearance which way? I have a bunch of photos of measurements taken. My bike is a 2015 model 29Point1. I'm running a Panaracer Rampage 29x2.35 which actually measures 2.23mm at widest and 1.96mm tall and it's a pretty tight fit. I was looking at going PLUS tires, but it's a no-go.

    Link to my photo gallery.

    Various photos (click to enlarge):



























    For photos with the tape measure, "0" is at center of the axle.

    Hope that helps,
    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  86. #586
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    Thanks. I have a bonty 2.35 on my rear wheel. How do you like the frame? Does it flex a lot? I an considering an unbranded one from bikeisland.. but have never done business with them.
    Veni Vidi Biki

    I came, I saw, I biked.

  87. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by skankingbiker View Post
    How do you like the frame? Does it flex a lot? I an considering an unbranded one from bikeisland.. but have never done business with them.
    It's been fine for me. I'm only a beginner to intermediate MTB rider, but I've thrashed it around a good bit. I don't have much to compare it to though. The bike was an inexpensive entry into MTB riding, has served it's purpose, and I'm hoping to buy another bike in the future (when I can afford it). I do wish I would have shelled out more for some better components right off the bat though (mainly for a better fork).

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  88. #588
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    bikesdirect has a lot of garbage priced accordingly... but they also have some good deals on high end products... like the Kestrel Carbon Hardatails and their Ti framesets

  89. #589
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    I've had my 2013 in pretty constant use since I bought it. swapped parts like crazy as pieces wore out (a 120mm recon silver fork seemed the perfect length fork to me). I currently have it set up as a rigid trail/gravel bike with a steel fork. Under my 240lbs, still don't get a lot of flex. If you're getting one off bike island, and are interested in an 8-speed setup, I'd recommend looking for one of their bikes that is discounted without a fork or wheels. The discounted cost makes up the price difference to buy a decent fork. the junk XCT fork is the worst thing with these bikes. And when you compare the cost of the complete bike without fork vs. just the frame/fork, it is worth getting all the components included. Unless you have a stock pile of parts, all the little stuff adds up quick. If it doesn't come with wheels, you can easily get good wheels this time of year. Something with a shimano hub, or spend more for a really good wheelset.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

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