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  1. #1
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    New bike, roval control vs ztr crest

    Hi, in a few days will buy the specialized elite world cup. I currently own a radon to which I put the crest wheels with hubs superstar switch evo. Now I'm thinking if I should keep the wheels crest maybe swapping hubs with DT those roval or if I should sell them to have more money available, I know that the roval control are great wheels but heavier than the crest, what do you think?

  2. #2
    NedwannaB
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    WC should have carbon rims no?
    Wait,who did he tell you that?....

  3. #3
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    Roval control, not carbon! Unfortunately the roval control carbon start with the ht expert

  4. #4
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    The 2015 roval are lighter than previous years. Just saying

  5. #5
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    You know the weight? So you think that i can hold the roval and sell the crest without problem? I can't decide!!!! XD

  6. #6
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    I was told they are under 1600 grams for the set but I don't know for sure. I know the old set was like 2100 grams. If they r like the set that specialized has listed on there website they r under 1600

  7. #7
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    I saw in the site, but in the weight field was blank... If is under 1600 i think is acceptable. Maybe i can sell the crest e hold a roval controll.

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  9. #9
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    Not sure if the alloy controls have a different rim profile than the carbon but I have the carbon and they have one glaring flaw compared to the Crest wheels, there is no bead barb like the crests have, to hold the bead on the shelf at very low pressure. I am not talking about the lip on the rim wall which specialized got rid of, I am talking about a ridge or channel that traps the bead once it has seated on the bead shelf. With a crest rim the tire stays on the shelf when pressure gets low so if your tire deflates you can plug the leak, remove valve core, squirt some more stans in, screw the core back in, inflate and you are good to go. Not so with the Roval (carbons). The bead shelf is flat. Once the tire gets low on pressure it moves back into the center channel. If you have a flat while riding now you have a rim full of dirt and it will be very difficult to reseat the tire on the trail. Time for a tube and if you are in the south west good luck getting all the thorns out...the first time. Also when installing tires, its a snap with stans. Take the valve core out and you can get in air fast enough with a hand pump to pop the beads on the shelf. Take off your pump, the tire deflates but stays seated. Squirt in your stans, instal valve core and pump with a floor pump. Simple. Not so with my Rovals. Using a floor pump I can pop tires on easy enough when I remove the value core but as soon as the pump comes off the tire unseats. The valve core has to stay in the stem when inflating and this poses a problem even for my compressor as often the valve cores get gummed up and donesn't flow air fast enough to seat the tire. My last tires I had to seat with a CO2 cartridge as it was the only way I could get enough air in fast enough with a valve core in place. This is a recurring problem with the Controls for me. Do love the wheels otherwise. May just have to get a reservoir tank for my compressor but it will still not solve the flat on the trail problem. Crests are so much easier to work with. Plugs and superglue make tubes almost obsolete. I have NEVER had to tube a crest wheel. With Rovals I have NEVER NOT had to resort to a tube on the trail.

  10. #10
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    thanks man.cave, obviously there were problems with the site in Italian and that field would be blank. 1580 I can keep them !!!! thanks also endoagain, although the crest regarding the first installation of rubber do not agree, do it right heel is very difficult even with the compressor, I have recently installed a kenda, gave me many, many problems to put it

  11. #11
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    I live in the east and ride mostly mtn and haven't had a flat issue in since going tubeless except in my fat bike which I still use tubes. The alloy will hold the tire if flat I don't know from experience about the carbon because with 3 sets I haven't had one go flat on or off the trail.

  12. #12
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    I've got a set of roval controls and a set of crests built onto Hope hubs. Here's my comparison:

    Hubs: Equal, both hubs are pretty nice. They're the BMW of hubs, not high end Ferrari or low end Kia.
    Weight: About the same
    Tubeless Setup: WAY easier on the Stan's. Everything airs up with a floor pump the first time on the Crests, its a bit more work with the Rovals.
    Stiffness: The Rovals are dramatically stiffer than the Crests.
    Durability: The rear Roval was defective, and I wrecked spokes like crazy, the front has been fine though. I was out of the warranty period when it started happening and they wouldn't fix it. My shop, who was awesome about the whole thing, gave me an EP on a set of Stan's Arches and they've been bulletproof.

    Overall, I'm not sure I'd buy a set of Rovals again. The Stan's rims, while they're flexy, have held up pretty well and they're pretty inexpensive.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by EndoAgain View Post
    Not sure if the alloy controls have a different rim profile than the carbon but I have the carbon and they have one glaring flaw compared to the Crest wheels, there is no bead barb like the crests have, to hold the bead on the shelf at very low pressure. I am not talking about the lip on the rim wall which specialized got rid of, I am talking about a ridge or channel that traps the bead once it has seated on the bead shelf. With a crest rim the tire stays on the shelf when pressure gets low so if your tire deflates you can plug the leak, remove valve core, squirt some more stans in, screw the core back in, inflate and you are good to go. Not so with the Roval (carbons). The bead shelf is flat. Once the tire gets low on pressure it moves back into the center channel. If you have a flat while riding now you have a rim full of dirt and it will be very difficult to reseat the tire on the trail. Time for a tube and if you are in the south west good luck getting all the thorns out...the first time. Also when installing tires, its a snap with stans. Take the valve core out and you can get in air fast enough with a hand pump to pop the beads on the shelf. Take off your pump, the tire deflates but stays seated. Squirt in your stans, instal valve core and pump with a floor pump. Simple. Not so with my Rovals. Using a floor pump I can pop tires on easy enough when I remove the value core but as soon as the pump comes off the tire unseats. The valve core has to stay in the stem when inflating and this poses a problem even for my compressor as often the valve cores get gummed up and donesn't flow air fast enough to seat the tire. My last tires I had to seat with a CO2 cartridge as it was the only way I could get enough air in fast enough with a valve core in place. This is a recurring problem with the Controls for me. Do love the wheels otherwise. May just have to get a reservoir tank for my compressor but it will still not solve the flat on the trail problem. Crests are so much easier to work with. Plugs and superglue make tubes almost obsolete. I have NEVER had to tube a crest wheel. With Rovals I have NEVER NOT had to resort to a tube on the trail.
    Well I had a rock cut my tire on the trail this past weekend and had to put in a tube to get back to the camp site. I'm running the new carbon traverse sl fattie rim I had a new tire and some stans but just a floor pump. I had no problem seating my new tire with floor pump and I have never removed core to seat a tire. Now I am using specialized tires which seat really easy, not sure if that was the difference.

  14. #14
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    At the end i sell my old cresta with the bike! My first impression with roval control is really amazing! And the RIM is tubuless ready, just enter the valve! I think is a good good good RIM and๒ the hub DT by specialized is realy fast! Maybe in the next Yeats i change with some carbon RIM, but for now i am satisfied!

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